Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:15 AM - Re: water temp 582 (Dave)
2. 04:28 AM - Re: water temp 582 (Dave)
3. 05:33 AM - Re: water temp 582 (Algate)
4. 06:12 AM - Re:Rotax carb sockets (Larry Martin)
5. 07:22 AM - Re: Kitfox tanks and blended ethanol (Lowell Fitt)
6. 07:25 AM - Re: water temp 582 (Napier, Mark)
7. 08:27 AM - Re: Re: water temp 582 (Guy Buchanan)
8. 08:27 AM - Re: water temp 582 (Guy Buchanan)
9. 08:27 AM - Re: water temp 582 (Guy Buchanan)
10. 09:27 AM - Re: Kitfox tanks and blended ethanol (flier)
11. 10:55 AM - Re: Rotax carb sockets (Torgeir Mortensen)
12. 10:55 AM - Re: water temp 582 (Don Smythe)
13. 10:57 AM - Re: water temp 582 (Marco Menezes)
14. 11:12 AM - Re: water temp 582 (Don Smythe)
15. 11:30 AM - Re: water temp 582 (Dave)
16. 11:53 AM - Re: Bungee turns (Michel Verheughe)
17. 11:56 AM - Re: Kitfox tanks and blended ethanol (Michel Verheughe)
18. 12:47 PM - Re: Kitfox tanks and blended ethanol (Don Smythe)
19. 12:48 PM - Re: Bungee turns (Dee Young)
20. 12:54 PM - Re: Bungee turns (Dave)
21. 01:04 PM - Re: Kitfox tanks and blended ethanol (Dave)
22. 01:05 PM - Re: Re:Rotax carb sockets (Rexster)
23. 01:34 PM - Re: Rotax carb socket (Larry Martin)
24. 01:38 PM - Re: water temp 582 (kurt schrader)
25. 01:47 PM - Flaperon skin thickness (Tim Vader)
26. 02:11 PM - Re: Kitfox tanks and blended ethanol (Michel Verheughe)
27. 02:18 PM - Re: Bungee turns (Michel Verheughe)
28. 02:49 PM - Re: Kitfox tanks and blended ethanol (Don Smythe)
29. 03:00 PM - Re: water temp 582 (Don Smythe)
30. 03:13 PM - Re: water temp 582 (Guy Buchanan)
31. 03:13 PM - Re: water temp 582 (Guy Buchanan)
32. 03:15 PM - ethanol blended fuel and Ellison TBI (Clem Nichols)
33. 03:28 PM - Re: water temp 582 (Bradley M Webb)
34. 03:39 PM - Re: water temp 582 (John Anderson)
35. 03:43 PM - Re: water temp 582 (Don Smythe)
36. 03:51 PM - Re: water temp 582 (John Anderson)
37. 04:03 PM - Re: water temp 582 (John Anderson)
38. 04:03 PM - Re: Kitfox tanks and blended ethanol (PWilson)
39. 04:03 PM - Re: Flaperon skin thickness (PWilson)
40. 05:08 PM - Re: water temp 582 (Don Smythe)
41. 05:08 PM - Re: water temp 582 (Don Smythe)
42. 05:12 PM - Re: water temp 582 (Don Smythe)
43. 05:28 PM - Re: water temp 582 (michael burkhardt)
44. 05:28 PM - Re: Kitfox tanks and blended ethanol (Lowell Fitt)
45. 05:37 PM - Re: ethanol blended fuel and Ellison TBI (wingsdown)
46. 05:41 PM - Re: water temp 582 (Richard Rabbers)
47. 05:43 PM - Re: water temp 582 (Richard Rabbers)
48. 05:53 PM - Re: Re: Rotax carb socket (Torgeir Mortensen)
49. 06:40 PM - Re: water temp 582 (Jerry Liles)
50. 07:00 PM - Re: Kitfox tanks and blended ethanol (flier)
51. 08:28 PM - Re: water temp 582 (Guy Buchanan)
52. 10:23 PM - Re: Kitfox tanks and blended ethanol (jdmcbean)
53. 10:47 PM - Re: water temp 582 (John Anderson)
54. 10:53 PM - Re: water temp 582 (John Anderson)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: water temp 582 |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Dave" <dave@cfisher.com>
I have been to Rotax seminars and it has been discussed .
176 F is the Rotax spec as Maximum but the consensus was that 180 to 200 is
the caution area.
Over 200F is the danger zone. Once you boil over you will most likely see
some cylinder damage. Now where it boils over ? Well Water alone is 212 F
and with Antifreeze a bit higher.
Needless to say I hope everyone uses distilled water and dexcool only . If
not Kiss your RV shaft and seals good bye at some point.
I have a 582 and the rad is attached just about under the control stick.
Seems to work fine there and on 90F days I will see 190F on climbout but it
will cruise 160 to 180 F . I have seen foxes with the Rad too far forward
and get really bad cooling. I think the farther back the better and also a
new rad maybe a few inches wider and a bit thicker would help too I think.
Also temp gauges are not certified accurate so once gauge at 190 F might be
170 or 195 in reality.
Here is a link to a Rotax shop that does seminars.
http://www.rotaxservice.com/documents/2STref.pdf
Dave
----- Original Message -----
From: "Guy Buchanan" <bnn@nethere.com>
Sent: Thursday, May 25, 2006 7:41 PM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: water temp 582
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Guy Buchanan <bnn@nethere.com>
>
> At 03:32 PM 5/25/2006, you wrote:
>>Another consideration is that with a static test run, there's very little
>>airflow passing through your radiator.
>
> I wondered about this. I recently ran for about 30 minutes on the ground
> with all temperatures good except the water stabilized at 190. (582.) I
> assumed it was OK, since it was a ground run, but Dave Stevenson seemed to
> think 190 was too high, even for a full power ground run. What do you
> think?
>
>
> Guy Buchanan
> K-IV 1200 / 582 / 99.9% done, thanks mostly to Bob Ducar.
>
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: water temp 582 |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Dave" <dave@cfisher.com>
Guy,
One thing I would like to add is on initial start up and Break - in you can
attach a garden hose in front of rad to allow for the extra cooling you may
need on ground.
Your Rotax breakin for new engines should be just over 1 hour in length and
with spurts up to 6500 RPM .
You will need the extra cooling for sure on the Kitfox unless it is very
cold outside. The breakin is essential to seat your rings and also temper
them. So follow that schedule closely. If is a good idea to mix your fuel
at 1% oil as well in addition to the regular oil injection to ensure
adequate lubrication. After breakin go and fly circuits for an hour to
finish the breakin process and see if you can stop smiling :)
If you need a copy of it it can be found in the rotax manuals -- I might
have a copy of you need -- let me know.
Dave
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave" <dave@cfisher.com>
Sent: Friday, May 26, 2006 7:10 AM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: water temp 582
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Dave" <dave@cfisher.com>
>
> I have been to Rotax seminars and it has been discussed .
> 176 F is the Rotax spec as Maximum but the consensus was that 180 to 200
> is
> the caution area.
> Over 200F is the danger zone. Once you boil over you will most likely see
> some cylinder damage. Now where it boils over ? Well Water alone is 212 F
> and with Antifreeze a bit higher.
> Needless to say I hope everyone uses distilled water and dexcool only .
> If
> not Kiss your RV shaft and seals good bye at some point.
>
> I have a 582 and the rad is attached just about under the control stick.
> Seems to work fine there and on 90F days I will see 190F on climbout but
> it
> will cruise 160 to 180 F . I have seen foxes with the Rad too far forward
> and get really bad cooling. I think the farther back the better and also a
> new rad maybe a few inches wider and a bit thicker would help too I think.
>
>
> Also temp gauges are not certified accurate so once gauge at 190 F might
> be
> 170 or 195 in reality.
>
> Here is a link to a Rotax shop that does seminars.
> http://www.rotaxservice.com/documents/2STref.pdf
>
>
> Dave
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Guy Buchanan" <bnn@nethere.com>
> To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Thursday, May 25, 2006 7:41 PM
> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: water temp 582
>
>
>> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Guy Buchanan <bnn@nethere.com>
>>
>> At 03:32 PM 5/25/2006, you wrote:
>>>Another consideration is that with a static test run, there's very little
>>>airflow passing through your radiator.
>>
>> I wondered about this. I recently ran for about 30 minutes on the ground
>> with all temperatures good except the water stabilized at 190. (582.) I
>> assumed it was OK, since it was a ground run, but Dave Stevenson seemed
>> to
>> think 190 was too high, even for a full power ground run. What do you
>> think?
>>
>>
>> Guy Buchanan
>> K-IV 1200 / 582 / 99.9% done, thanks mostly to Bob Ducar.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 3
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Algate" <algate@attglobal.net>
When I ran my 582 in on the ground I experienced similar temps at WOT. I ran
a hose to the outside of the rad and applied additional cooling to keep
temps below 180 for the remainder of the run in period
Once it was in the air I still had initial problems with high temps but
solved this by lowering the rad 1" to get better airflow. I believe this is
a pretty common mod that most 582 owners have done.
My temps since then are 175 on Climb (sometimes 180 on extended climb in
summer) and 170 in cruise
Regards
Gary Algate
Mal -
Another consideration is that with a static test run, there's very little
airflow passing through your radiator. Some have suggested that you hose
down the radiator during static testing to keep temps down. If you didn't do
something like that, you may well see that 185 reading drop to 170 or below
when you're blowing 65 mph air thru the rad.
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re:Rotax carb sockets |
Cc: <Kitfox-List@matronics.com>
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Larry Martin" <CrownLJ@verizon.net>
Thanks Rex,
From your experience, will a socket for a Mukni Vm-34 be compatible =
with the dimensions on the Bing 36mm ? From what I gather, they should =
be very close for the socket use. I can't imagine that there can be =
that amount of difference and a different socket for each application =
was made. Unless your, or someone else's experience suggests different, =
I'm going to risk $7 in shipping to buy "Ski-Doo Formula Plus/LT =
89-92, Formula MX/MX-LT 85-92" sockets at 7.95 each.
Thanks again,=20
Larry
Hi ! Larry,
I bought a couple of these about 12 months ago for =
=3D
when I needed them. I used to race Karts with these on and know how =3D
notorious they are for failing. Anyway I just fitted them and they hold =
=3D
the carbies a lot steadier and certainly look to be of far superior =3D
material. I am impressed but it is early days yet.
=
=3D
Rex.
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Kitfox tanks and blended ethanol |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt@sbcglobal.net>
Ted, I haven't checked the ethanol level lately, but did during the 6%
period. My guess is that it is higher than that now. My feeling is that we
are under the control, fuel wise, of powers that we have no direct control
over. The thought of the lead in 100LL is not an option in my mind despite
the lead scavengers (TCP and the like). I have run 100LL from time to time
as we fly out of the area on our trips to the back country and I see the
buildup in the oil tank at oil changes of the lead residue and I can only
imagine what is in the grear box. I did change out to auto fuel lines as
these are formulated for the exact fuels we are using.
That said, I did have a tank begin leaking after about the 4th year of
flying. Interesting enough it was first noticed during one of the Idaho
trips after about 4 days of flying with 100LL - go figure. The first
indication was very small blisters on the top surface of the left wing. The
largest were about 1/4" in diameter and the others were mostly felt as you
ran your hand over the area. I ignored it for a couple of years then
resloshed that wing tank with Kreem - alcohol resistant. I went with the
Kreem because of the track record. I felt that with all the talk and the
numbers of users that the inherent problems could be controlled. I didn't
want the be the Kitfox beta tester for something new.
I made a fixture that exactly fit the wing tip cushioned with felt and
supported with a gimbaled joint. The inboard end of the wing was supported
by a hinged device that I could fold out of the way. Everything was on
casters for mobility. I did discover that strict attention to the Kreem
instructions is a very good idea. I won't go into details on that, but I
have been leak free for two years now, but keeping on the alert.
I can give more details for those needing the info. I hope none do as the
whole thing is no fun, and that is speaking mildly.
Lowell
----- Original Message -----
From: "flier" <flier@sbcglobal.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 25, 2006 6:35 PM
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Kitfox tanks and blended ethanol
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "flier" <flier@sbcglobal.net>
>
> Thanks Jimmie. I think it's mostly going to be owners out on the west
> coast
> or up north as I believe ethanol has been more prevalent in those areas in
> the past. I'm looking for comments from anyone that has actually had
> ethanol blended gas in their tanks for a long time.
>
> Regards,
>
> Ted
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jimmie
> Blackwell
> Sent: Thursday, May 25, 2006 4:30 PM
> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Kitfox tanks and blended ethanol
>
>
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Jimmie Blackwell
> <jimmieblackwell@sbcglobal.net>
>
> Ted
>
> Mine is 12 years old and always been flown either out of Houston or the
> Austin area. No problem so far, (knock on wood).
>
> Jimmie
>
> flier <FLIER@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "flier"
>
> Hi All,
>
> Wanted to do a quick poll and see if anyone has had
> any problems with their tanks that they've attributed
> to using ethanol blended fuel? Mine are Kreem coated
> and have been fine for the last 10 yrs but I'm
> nervous.
>
> As of now all the stations in Houston are pretty much
> 10% ethanol. The last batch of fuel I purchased was
> still MTBE based. I've been testing. Anyway, now
> that burning some ethanol is a given (I don't want to
> switch to avgas due to the 912 & lead as well as
> price) I thought I'd check.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Ted
>
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: water temp 582 |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Napier, Mark" <Mark.Napier@sciatl.com>
On my water temp gauge it did read correctly at the boiling point of
water. But at temperatures less that that it read way too high. I
drove myself crazy until I got the Westach chart showing temperature vs.
resistance for the probe and measured it in water slowing warming up an
comparing the two.
For instance at 140 degrees it should show 170. New probe - end of
problem.
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Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: water temp 582 |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Guy Buchanan <bnn@nethere.com>
At 07:25 AM 5/26/2006, you wrote:
>For instance at 140 degrees it should show 170. New probe - end of
>problem.
Thanks Mark,
I'll check the probe by heating some water to boiling, setting the
tip of the probe in, and then letting the water cool. That way I can check
the system end to end. I'll use a thermocouple connected to my multi-meter
for comparison.
Guy Buchanan
K-IV 1200 / 582 / 99.9% done, thanks mostly to Bob Ducar.
Message 8
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Guy Buchanan <bnn@nethere.com>
At 05:34 AM 5/26/2006, you wrote:
>When I ran my 582 in on the ground I experienced similar temps at WOT. I ran
>a hose to the outside of the rad and applied additional cooling to keep
>temps below 180 for the remainder of the run in period
>
>Once it was in the air I still had initial problems with high temps but
>solved this by lowering the rad 1" to get better airflow. I believe this is
>a pretty common mod that most 582 owners have done.
Thanks Gary,
I've got the Skystar radiator cowl which I've reworked so all the
inlet flow goes through the radiator. The interesting thing is that my
round cowl has an exhaust protrusion which appears to block about half the
radiator inlet! My only hope is that 1) the radiator cowl has more inlet
than necessary; and 2) that I'll have excessive flow through the engine
cowl which will feed into the radiator. Unfortunately this latter will be
heated somewhat which won't be helping my cooling at all. Dropping the
radiator cowl necessitates major rework. I could also cut away the engine
cowl exhaust protrusion, but that would also look messy. Hopefully it
doesn't make first flight more exciting than necessary!
Guy Buchanan
K-IV 1200 / 582 / 99.9% done, thanks mostly to Bob Ducar.
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: water temp 582 |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Guy Buchanan <bnn@nethere.com>
At 04:27 AM 5/26/2006, you wrote:
>One thing I would like to add is on initial start up and Break - in you can
>attach a garden hose in front of rad to allow for the extra cooling you may
>need on ground.
>
>Your Rotax breakin for new engines should be just over 1 hour in length and
>with spurts up to 6500 RPM .
...
>Dave
Dave,
Fortunately Bob Robertson already broke the engine in on the bench
some years ago. I'm just checking systems now. The water is a good idea,
though I'll have to dig around at the airport to get some.
My main question was whether 190 on the ground results in
something less in the air. Nobody's said anything definitive either way so
I'll just have to try it.
Guy Buchanan
K-IV 1200 / 582 / 99.9% done, thanks mostly to Bob Ducar.
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Kitfox tanks and blended ethanol |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "flier" <FLIER@sbcglobal.net>
Thanks Lowell. Good input. I'm concerned about
those fiberglass tanks. I know the gas I've used for
the past nearly 10 yrs has been alcohol free. I
really hate to start now but there's no alternative.
I guess we might be OK if we all ended up with tanks
that were Kreem sloshed properly. I have my doubts
tho. I'm just hoping we don't end up with a rash of
Kitfox tanks failing over the next couple of yrs as
the 10% ethanol blend starts getting used by everyone.
I've about decided that if I end up with leaks I'll
likely build aluminum tanks to fit inside the
fiberglass hulls and recover both wings.
Regards,
Ted
--- Original Message ---
From: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Kitfox tanks and blended
ethanol
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Lowell Fitt"
<lcfitt@sbcglobal.net>
>
>Ted, I haven't checked the ethanol level lately,
but did during the 6%
>period. My guess is that it is higher than that
now. My feeling is that we
>are under the control, fuel wise, of powers that we
have no direct control
>over. The thought of the lead in 100LL is not an
option in my mind despite
>the lead scavengers (TCP and the like). I have run
100LL from time to time
>as we fly out of the area on our trips to the back
country and I see the
>buildup in the oil tank at oil changes of the lead
residue and I can only
>imagine what is in the grear box. I did change out
to auto fuel lines as
>these are formulated for the exact fuels we are
using.
>
>That said, I did have a tank begin leaking after
about the 4th year of
>flying. Interesting enough it was first noticed
during one of the Idaho
>trips after about 4 days of flying with 100LL - go
figure. The first
>indication was very small blisters on the top
surface of the left wing. The
>largest were about 1/4" in diameter and the others
were mostly felt as you
>ran your hand over the area. I ignored it for a
couple of years then
>resloshed that wing tank with Kreem - alcohol
resistant. I went with the
>Kreem because of the track record. I felt that with
all the talk and the
>numbers of users that the inherent problems could be
controlled. I didn't
>want the be the Kitfox beta tester for something new.
>
>I made a fixture that exactly fit the wing tip
cushioned with felt and
>supported with a gimbaled joint. The inboard end of
the wing was supported
>by a hinged device that I could fold out of the
way. Everything was on
>casters for mobility. I did discover that strict
attention to the Kreem
>instructions is a very good idea. I won't go into
details on that, but I
>have been leak free for two years now, but keeping
on the alert.
>
>I can give more details for those needing the info.
I hope none do as the
>whole thing is no fun, and that is speaking mildly.
>
>Lowell
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Rotax carb sockets |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Torgeir Mortensen <torgemor@online.no>
OK., Folks, here it is:
http://www.mfgsupply.com/SnowCarb.html/mv_session_id=4k7kym5U
Torgeir
--
Using M2, Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/m2/
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: water temp 582 |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Don Smythe" <dosmythe@cox.net>
> My main question was whether 190 on the ground results in
> something less in the air. Nobody's said anything definitive either way so
The level flying temps should be less than the ground runup temps. However,
during climbout on a hot day you may see temps over 180. During those times
I used to reduce power and step climb to keep things below 180. I do not
allow my temps to go above 180 under any circumstances. That's just my
rule. Normal cruise on the average should be around 165 or so.
Don Smythe
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: water temp 582 |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Marco Menezes <msm_9949@yahoo.com>
I'll go out on a limb, Guy. I'll bet a beer that your 190 becomes 170 at 65 mph.
Takers? But before you try it in the air, do a run-up as suggested with water
from a hose directed over the rad. If it's still 190, bet's off.
Guy Buchanan <bnn@nethere.com> wrote: --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Guy Buchanan
At 04:27 AM 5/26/2006, you wrote:
>One thing I would like to add is on initial start up and Break - in you can
>attach a garden hose in front of rad to allow for the extra cooling you may
>need on ground.
>
>Your Rotax breakin for new engines should be just over 1 hour in length and
>with spurts up to 6500 RPM .
...
>Dave
Dave,
Fortunately Bob Robertson already broke the engine in on the bench
some years ago. I'm just checking systems now. The water is a good idea,
though I'll have to dig around at the airport to get some.
My main question was whether 190 on the ground results in
something less in the air. Nobody's said anything definitive either way so
I'll just have to try it.
Guy Buchanan
K-IV 1200 / 582 / 99.9% done, thanks mostly to Bob Ducar.
Marco Menezes
Model 2 582 N99KX
---------------------------------
Get on board. You're invited to try the new Yahoo! Mail Beta.
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: water temp 582 |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Don Smythe" <dosmythe@cox.net>
>>solved this by lowering the rad 1" to get better airflow. I believe this
>>is a pretty common mod that most 582 owners have done.>>
I had the problem and tried lowering the rad 1", 2" and then way forward.
The way forward worked the best for me (ahead of the cowl exhaust).
>> inlet flow goes through the radiator. The interesting thing is that my
>> round cowl has an exhaust protrusion which appears to block about half
>> the >>
That bothered me too. I ended up cutting off that bottom protrusion and
fiberglassing the bottom of the round cowl to be straight across. I then
added two reverse scoops on either side of the cowl to provide cowl exhaust.
Next, I fabricated a cowl for the radiator that extends the full width of
the aircraft bottom and all the way back to the aft carry thru tube. The
front inlet almost blends in with the bottom of the round cowl. All air
coming off the bottom nose of the aircraft is funneled into the rad cowl.
The new rad cowl has two independent cockpit controlled flaps on the back of
the rad. With two controls vice one, I can control the water temps under
just about any circumstance.
I spent a lot of time trying different things to keep my temps below
180. WaterWetter, no thermostat, moving radiator all over the place,
different antifreeze ratios, etc, etc. This mod seems to have done the
trick and also gives me the ability to keep temps "high" during cold weather
decents. This is valuable for go arounds when the water cools off too much.
Don Smythe
> radiator inlet! My only hope is that 1) the radiator cowl has more inlet
> than necessary; and 2) that I'll have excessive flow through the engine
> cowl which will feed into the radiator. Unfortunately this latter will be
> heated somewhat which won't be helping my cooling at all. Dropping the
> radiator cowl necessitates major rework. I could also cut away the engine
> cowl exhaust protrusion, but that would also look messy. Hopefully it
> doesn't make first flight more exciting than necessary!
>
>
> Guy Buchanan
> K-IV 1200 / 582 / 99.9% done, thanks mostly to Bob Ducar.
>
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: water temp 582 |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Dave" <dave@cfisher.com>
Yes - I agree Marco.
Also I think i mentioned in last post that the further back the rad the
better the cooling. Some Avids have the rad back by the Wing Attach struts
and seem to run super cool.
Mine sits right below the control sticks in Kitfox IV and no heating issues
at all.
Dave
----- Original Message -----
From: "Marco Menezes" <msm_9949@yahoo.com>
Sent: Friday, May 26, 2006 1:57 PM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: water temp 582
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Marco Menezes <msm_9949@yahoo.com>
>
> I'll go out on a limb, Guy. I'll bet a beer that your 190 becomes 170 at
> 65 mph. Takers? But before you try it in the air, do a run-up as suggested
> with water from a hose directed over the rad. If it's still 190, bet's
> off.
>
> Guy Buchanan <bnn@nethere.com> wrote: --> Kitfox-List message posted by:
> Guy Buchanan
>
> At 04:27 AM 5/26/2006, you wrote:
>>One thing I would like to add is on initial start up and Break - in you
>>can
>>attach a garden hose in front of rad to allow for the extra cooling you
>>may
>>need on ground.
>>
>>Your Rotax breakin for new engines should be just over 1 hour in length
>>and
>>with spurts up to 6500 RPM .
>
> ...
>
>>Dave
>
> Dave,
> Fortunately Bob Robertson already broke the engine in on the bench
> some years ago. I'm just checking systems now. The water is a good idea,
> though I'll have to dig around at the airport to get some.
> My main question was whether 190 on the ground results in
> something less in the air. Nobody's said anything definitive either way so
> I'll just have to try it.
>
>
> Guy Buchanan
> K-IV 1200 / 582 / 99.9% done, thanks mostly to Bob Ducar.
>
>
> Marco Menezes
> Model 2 582 N99KX
>
> ---------------------------------
> Get on board. You're invited to try the new Yahoo! Mail Beta.
>
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Bungee turns |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no>
Sorry for the late answer, Dee, I am getting email from so many
different lists, and in three different languages ... I am getting
confused.
On May 23, 2006, at 2:47 PM, Dee Young wrote:
> If you would like I would be glad to check the
> size and color. I read some where that one of the colors that had been
> used was bad and no long recommended.
Yes, thank you. The size is quite evident but I am not sure I
understand the idea about the colours. I "googled" a bit about it and
it seems that colour code is used on chock absorbing cords as an
indication of the date of manufacture. What I don't understand is, are
there different strength of bungees, or rather, different stretching
lengths? Because I have the right diameter, the right length as
indicated in the building manual but ... it still sags. Should I get
another type of bungee, in which case, which? Or should I make the
length (now 55") even shorter?
Cheers,
Michel
do not archive
Message 17
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|
| Subject: | Re: Kitfox tanks and blended ethanol |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no>
On May 26, 2006, at 7:23 PM, flier wrote:
> I've about decided that if I end up with leaks I'll
> likely build aluminum tanks to fit inside the
> fiberglass hulls and recover both wings.
Maybe a silly question but ... couldn't the tanks be made ethanol
resistant by coating the inside with epoxy?
Just wondering. Incidentally, there are still no Ethanol in the
Norwegian MOGAS but by the end of the year, there might be as much as
5%, as a governmental and environmental decision.
Cheers,
Michel
do not archive
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Kitfox tanks and blended ethanol |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Don Smythe" <dosmythe@cox.net>
> Maybe a silly question but ... couldn't the tanks be made ethanol
> resistant by coating the inside with epoxy?
> Cheers,
> Michel
>
> do not archive
Michel,
I did just that on my tanks. Cut them open and coated the interiors
with West Systems Epoxy (after removing the cracking Kreeme). However, my
opinion is that nothing you put inside the tanks as a coating would protect
the fiberglass itself against a harmful fuel. Even a pinhole that you
missed will allow the fuel to reach the fiberglass. That would be like
building a fuel tank out of Styrofoam and coating it with something to
prevent the gasoline from eating the Styrofoam. I doubt a Styrofoam tank
would last a day.
Message 19
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|
| Subject: | Re: Bungee turns |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Dee Young" <henrysfork1@msn.com>
The bungee on my Model II is 3/8 dia. and 60" long. Looking at the gear =
there are 6 wraps showing on the bottom of the gear. Not sure why you =
have the difference in length, I wouldn't make them shorter. The =
different sets I have installed have always went on tight and kept the =
gear in place.
Dee Young
Model II
N345DY
Do Not Archive=20
----- Original Message -----=20
From: Michel Verheughe<mailto:michel@online.no>=20
To: kitfox-list@matronics.com<mailto:kitfox-list@matronics.com>=20
Sent: Friday, May 26, 2006 12:52 PM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Bungee turns
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe =
<michel@online.no<mailto:michel@online.no>>
Sorry for the late answer, Dee, I am getting email from so many=20
different lists, and in three different languages ... I am getting=20
confused.
On May 23, 2006, at 2:47 PM, Dee Young wrote:
> If you would like I would be glad to check the
> size and color. I read some where that one of the colors that had =
been
> used was bad and no long recommended.
Yes, thank you. The size is quite evident but I am not sure I=20
understand the idea about the colours. I "googled" a bit about it and=20
it seems that colour code is used on chock absorbing cords as an=20
indication of the date of manufacture. What I don't understand is, are =
there different strength of bungees, or rather, different stretching=20
lengths? Because I have the right diameter, the right length as=20
indicated in the building manual but ... it still sags. Should I get=20
another type of bungee, in which case, which? Or should I make the=20
length (now 55") even shorter?
Cheers,
Michel
do not archive
=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List<http://www.matronics.com/N=
avigator?Kitfox-List>
=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
http://www.matronics.com/contribution<http://www.matronics.com/contributi=
on>
=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=20
=20
=20
Message 20
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|
| Subject: | Re: Bungee turns |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Dave" <dave@cfisher.com>
Michel
This is what is needed for Coloured Bungees
We refer to it as MIL SPEC
Most aircraft supply houses carry it.
It is 3/8s sizing but you will find it measure about .41
http://www.superiorbungee.com/index_files/Page545.htm
Dave
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michel Verheughe" <michel@online.no>
Sent: Friday, May 26, 2006 2:52 PM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Bungee turns
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no>
>
> Sorry for the late answer, Dee, I am getting email from so many
> different lists, and in three different languages ... I am getting
> confused.
>
> On May 23, 2006, at 2:47 PM, Dee Young wrote:
>
>> If you would like I would be glad to check the
>> size and color. I read some where that one of the colors that had been
>> used was bad and no long recommended.
>
> Yes, thank you. The size is quite evident but I am not sure I
> understand the idea about the colours. I "googled" a bit about it and
> it seems that colour code is used on chock absorbing cords as an
> indication of the date of manufacture. What I don't understand is, are
> there different strength of bungees, or rather, different stretching
> lengths? Because I have the right diameter, the right length as
> indicated in the building manual but ... it still sags. Should I get
> another type of bungee, in which case, which? Or should I make the
> length (now 55") even shorter?
>
> Cheers,
> Michel
>
> do not archive
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 21
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|
| Subject: | Re: Kitfox tanks and blended ethanol |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Dave" <dave@cfisher.com>
Don,
I cannot find link but there is a product that is compatible with ethanol .
I think it was called red- something.
besides most gas stations have fiberglass tanks and contain ethanol fuel.
I have no idea if our fuel in Canada has ethanol yet or what percentage but
so far , so good .
I have heard of some tank's lining turning to gel and clogging up fuel
filters.
Dave
PS styrofoam gets eaten by gas. I have made tanks out of it as a plug
and disolved the styrofoam with gas.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Don Smythe" <dosmythe@cox.net>
Sent: Friday, May 26, 2006 3:46 PM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Kitfox tanks and blended ethanol
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Don Smythe" <dosmythe@cox.net>
>
>> Maybe a silly question but ... couldn't the tanks be made ethanol
>> resistant by coating the inside with epoxy?
>> Cheers,
>> Michel
>>
>> do not archive
>
> Michel,
> I did just that on my tanks. Cut them open and coated the interiors
> with West Systems Epoxy (after removing the cracking Kreeme). However, my
> opinion is that nothing you put inside the tanks as a coating would
> protect
> the fiberglass itself against a harmful fuel. Even a pinhole that you
> missed will allow the fuel to reach the fiberglass. That would be like
> building a fuel tank out of Styrofoam and coating it with something to
> prevent the gasoline from eating the Styrofoam. I doubt a Styrofoam tank
> would last a day.
>
>
>
Message 22
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|
Cc: rexjan@bigpond.com, Kitfox-List@matronics.com
| Subject: | Re:Rotax carb sockets |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Rexster" <runwayrex@juno.com>
Larry,
There's two of us Rex's on this site and you may have intended this f=
or the "big pond" guy who I think is from Australia. I have a 912, so I =
really don't know how sockets are going to work on your 582. I'm going t=
o the airport tomorrow and will post the part numbers for the 912 socket=
s.
Rex in Michigan with the Model 3, 912
=
-- "Larry Martin" <CrownLJ@verizon.net> wrote:
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Larry Martin" <CrownLJ@verizon.net>
Thanks Rex,
From your experience, will a socket for a Mukni Vm-34 be compatible =3D=
with the dimensions on the Bing 36mm ? From what I gather, they should =
=3D
be very close for the socket use. I can't imagine that there can be =3D=
that amount of difference and a different socket for each application =3D=
was made. Unless your, or someone else's experience suggests different,=
=3D
I'm going to risk $7 in shipping to buy "Ski-Doo Formula Plus/LT =3D
89-92, Formula MX/MX-LT 85-92" sockets at 7.95 each.
Thanks again,=3D20
Larry
Hi ! Larry,
I bought a couple of these about 12 months ago for =3D=
=3D3D
when I needed them. I used to race Karts with these on and know how =3D3=
D
notorious they are for failing. Anyway I just fitted them and they hold=
=3D
=3D3D
the carbies a lot steadier and certainly look to be of far superior =3D3=
D
material. I am impressed but it is early days yet.
=
=3D
=3D3D
Rex.
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=
=
=
<html><P>Larry,</P>
<P> There's two of us Rex's on this site and you may have in=
tended this for the "big pond" guy who I think is from Australia. I have=
a 912, so I really don't know how sockets are going to work on your 582=
. I'm going to the airport tomorrow and will post the part numbers for t=
he 912 sockets.</P>
<P>Rex in Michigan with the Model 3, 912</P>
<P> </P>
<P><BR><BR>-- "Larry Martin" <CrownLJ@verizon.net>&=
nbsp;wrote:<BR>--> Kitfox-List message posted by:=
"Larry Martin" <CrownLJ@verizon.net><BR><BR>Thanks=
Rex,<BR><BR> From your experience, will&=
nbsp;a socket for a Mukni Vm-34 be co=
mpatible =3D<BR>with the dimensions on the =
;Bing 36mm ? From what I gather,&nbs=
p;they should =3D<BR>be very close for the=
socket use. I can't imagine that&nb=
sp;there can be =3D<BR>that amount of diff=
erence and a different socket for each&nbs=
p;application =3D<BR>was made. Unless your,&nb=
sp;or someone else's experience suggests differ=
ent, =3D<BR>I'm going to risk $7 in&=
nbsp;shipping to buy "Ski-Doo Formula Plu=
s/LT =3D<BR>89-92, Formula MX/MX-LT 85-92" sock=
ets at 7.95 each.<BR><BR>Thanks again,=3D20<BR>Larry=
<BR><BR><BR>Hi ! Larry,<BR>  =
;  =
; I bought a couple of these about&nb=
sp;12 months ago for =3D<BR>=3D3D<BR>when I&nbs=
p;needed them. I used to race Karts w=
ith these on and know how =3D3D<BR>notorio=
us they are for failing. Anyway I&nb=
sp;just fitted them and they hold =3D<BR>=3D=
3D<BR>the carbies a lot steadier and certa=
inly look to be of far superior =3D3D=
<BR>material. I am impressed but it is&nbs=
p;early days yet.<BR>  =
;  =
;  =
;  =
;  =
;  =
; =3D<BR>=3D3D<BR> &=
nbsp; Rex.<BR=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
- The Ki=
atronics List Features Navigator to browse<BR>_=
-=3D the many List utilities such as =
sp; &nb=
sp; &nb=
sp; &nb=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
- NEW MATRONIC=
p; &nbs=
p; &nbs=
p; &nbs=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
sp; - List Contribution Web Site&nb=
nbsp; &=
nbsp; -Matt&n=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D<BR><B=
R><BR><BR> <BR> <BR> <BR><BR><BR><BR></P></html>
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Rotax carb socket |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Larry Martin" <CrownLJ@verizon.net>
Hey Torgeir,
That's the same company that I found! Did you buy for a 582, or 912? =
I was wondering if the 07-481-1 - Ski-Doo Carb Flange is the same for =
the 582?
Larry
Message 24
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|
| Subject: | Re: water temp 582 |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: kurt schrader <smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
Hi Don,
If you have the time, could you sum up the results
from each of your changes? How much improvement did
you get from changing the ratios, adding waterwetter,
moving the radiator, adding the scoop, etc? You might
prevent some tail-chasing for me and others.
Also, did your scoop change your performance any?
Speed or climb?
Kurt S. S-5
--- Don Smythe <dosmythe@cox.net> wrote:
> That bothered me too. I ended up cutting off that
> bottom protrusion and
> fiberglassing the bottom of the round cowl to be
> straight across. I then
> added two reverse scoops on either side of the cowl
> to provide cowl exhaust.
> Next, I fabricated a cowl for the radiator that
> extends the full width of
> the aircraft bottom and all the way back to the aft
> carry thru tube. The
> front inlet almost blends in with the bottom of the
> round cowl. All air
> coming off the bottom nose of the aircraft is
> funneled into the rad cowl.
> The new rad cowl has two independent cockpit
> controlled flaps on the back of
> the rad. With two controls vice one, I can control
> the water temps under
> just about any circumstance.
> I spent a lot of time trying different things to
> keep my temps below
> 180. WaterWetter, no thermostat, moving radiator
> all over the place,
> different antifreeze ratios, etc, etc. This mod
> seems to have done the
> trick and also gives me the ability to keep temps
> "high" during cold weather
> decents. This is valuable for go arounds when the
> water cools off too much.
>
> Don Smythe
__________________________________________________
Message 25
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|
| Subject: | Flaperon skin thickness |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Tim Vader" <vadert@telusplanet.net>
Hi
Can anyone tell me the the thickness of the flaperon skin on a Model =
IV 1200. I'm away from home and my construction manual, and would like =
to order aluminum to repair my flaperon.
Tim Vader
Calgary, Canada
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: Kitfox tanks and blended ethanol |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no>
On May 26, 2006, at 9:46 PM, Don Smythe wrote:
> I did just that on my tanks. Cut them open and coated the interiors
> with West Systems Epoxy (after removing the cracking Kreeme).
Well, Don and Dave, what I did was to call Shell Norway (because I use
a Shell station to fill my cans of MOGAS) and asked them about ethanol
in Norway. A person answered that there was still none but that it
would come shortly, as part of a request from the European Union
directives.
I mentioned then my worry for our fiberglass tanks. To which that
person was interested because - as you say, Dave - many petrol station
tanks are made of fiberglass but ... coated with epoxy.
But I agree with Don that a coating should be done thoroughly if it is
supposed to work. Did you clean your tanks with acetone before coating
them, Don?
Cheers,
Michel
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: Bungee turns |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no>
Thank you, Dee and Dave.
I purchased this - now useless - bungee cord at a local ship chandler.
I didn't see why requirements to quality would be different from
aviation to maritime use. Yet it must be because if what I purchased
was 60" long, it would sag way too much. So, aviation bungee cord
stretches much less than their maritime equivalents. It doesn't
necessarily mean that they are stronger but they stretch less. However,
they are both strings of rubber in a nylon sleeve. Could it be that the
aviation one is pre-stretched in some way?
Thanks for the link, Dee. I know that Aircraft Spruce also retails
bungee cords. I might have to purchase from the other side of the big
pond but, as you know, given the shipping cost, the enormous 25% added
value tax in Norway, on both goods and shipping ... it makes me try
first local goods. Yet, if not available, I'll do in the US as I have
done many times before.
Cheers,
Michel
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: Kitfox tanks and blended ethanol |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Don Smythe" <dosmythe@cox.net>
> supposed to work. Did you clean your tanks with acetone before coating
> them, Don?
>
> Cheers,
> Michel
Michel,
When I had the tanks cut open I cleaned with acetone and MEK using paint
brushes and tooth brushes for all the cracks and corners then went over all
surfaces with rough sand paper. I applied the West Epoxy with a small brush
in the seams/corners and a plastic spreader for all the flat surfaces. I
did not want the epoxy to build up too thick so it would crack.
Don Smythe
Message 29
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| Subject: | Re: water temp 582 |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Don Smythe" <dosmythe@cox.net>
http://www.sportflight.com/uploads/Imag0015.jpg
Kurt,
All the things I did didn't seem to make a significant difference. My
main concern was exceeding 180 degrees on a hot day climb. Other than that,
my temps were pretty good. The biggest change I did is shown on the above
Sportflight link. As you can see by the side brackets the radiator was
lowered about 6+ inches so it was below the cowl exhaust vent. You can also
see that I put a piece of Lexan pop riveted to the lower cowl and tied back
to the top of the rad. This provided a fairly tight air deflection from the
bottom of the round cowl directly into the face of the rad. All that heavy
temporary copper tubing you see almost made the plane nose heavy.
As I said, this change made significant difference on peaking temps
during a climb and prompted me to do the final mods I made.
Don Smythe
> Hi Don,
>
> If you have the time, could you sum up the results
> from each of your changes? How much improvement did
> you get from changing the ratios, adding waterwetter,
> moving the radiator, adding the scoop, etc? You might
> prevent some tail-chasing for me and others.
>
> Also, did your scoop change your performance any?
> Speed or climb?
>
> Kurt S. S-5
Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: water temp 582 |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Guy Buchanan <bnn@nethere.com>
At 10:57 AM 5/26/2006, you wrote:
>I'll go out on a limb, Guy. I'll bet a beer that your 190 becomes 170 at
>65 mph. Takers? But before you try it in the air, do a run-up as suggested
>with water from a hose directed over the rad. If it's still 190, bet's off.
OK. We'll try it.
Guy Buchanan
K-IV 1200 / 582 / 99.9% done, thanks mostly to Bob Ducar.
Do not archive
Message 31
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| Subject: | Re: water temp 582 |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Guy Buchanan <bnn@nethere.com>
At 11:11 AM 5/26/2006, you wrote:
>That bothered me too.
...
>just about any circumstance.
Don,
Your layout's pictured in Sportflight, isn't it? I like it, but I
hope I don't have to go to those lengths to make it work!
Guy Buchanan
K-IV 1200 / 582 / 99.9% done, thanks mostly to Bob Ducar.
Do not archive
Message 32
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|
| Subject: | ethanol blended fuel and Ellison TBI |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Clem Nichols" <cnichols@scrtc.com>
Does anyone in the group have experience running 10% ethanol blended =
fuel through an Ellison throttle body injector? Ellison says to not do =
it because of possibly damaging internal components which, as I =
understand, are not owner replaceable. So far I've had no trouble =
finding ethanol-free gasoline, but that may not last for long.
Clem Nichols
Message 33
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Bradley M Webb" <bmwebb@cox.net>
Check out my radiator location on SportFlight. It worked very well, the
speeds increased, and the 'fox classic lines are undisturbed.
I saw no more than 190, and then only on the very hottest days and hardest
climbs.
If you do this, it helps a lot to wrap your exhaust, to keep the temps down.
Bradley
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of kurt schrader
Sent: Friday, May 26, 2006 4:38 PM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: water temp 582
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: kurt schrader
<smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
Hi Don,
If you have the time, could you sum up the results
from each of your changes? How much improvement did
you get from changing the ratios, adding waterwetter,
moving the radiator, adding the scoop, etc? You might
prevent some tail-chasing for me and others.
Also, did your scoop change your performance any?
Speed or climb?
Kurt S. S-5
--- Don Smythe <dosmythe@cox.net> wrote:
> That bothered me too. I ended up cutting off that
> bottom protrusion and
> fiberglassing the bottom of the round cowl to be
> straight across. I then
> added two reverse scoops on either side of the cowl
> to provide cowl exhaust.
> Next, I fabricated a cowl for the radiator that
> extends the full width of
> the aircraft bottom and all the way back to the aft
> carry thru tube. The
> front inlet almost blends in with the bottom of the
> round cowl. All air
> coming off the bottom nose of the aircraft is
> funneled into the rad cowl.
> The new rad cowl has two independent cockpit
> controlled flaps on the back of
> the rad. With two controls vice one, I can control
> the water temps under
> just about any circumstance.
> I spent a lot of time trying different things to
> keep my temps below
> 180. WaterWetter, no thermostat, moving radiator
> all over the place,
> different antifreeze ratios, etc, etc. This mod
> seems to have done the
> trick and also gives me the ability to keep temps
> "high" during cold weather
> decents. This is valuable for go arounds when the
> water cools off too much.
>
> Don Smythe
__________________________________________________
Message 34
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| Subject: | Re: water temp 582 |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "John Anderson" <janderson412@hotmail.com>
My setup works very well too Guy, climb and extened taxi max 95c and 85-90
cruise.. John A.
http://www.sportflight.com/cgi-bin/uploader.pl?action=view&epoch=1040642128
From: Guy Buchanan <bnn@nethere.com>
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: water temp 582
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Guy Buchanan <bnn@nethere.com>
At 11:11 AM 5/26/2006, you wrote:
>That bothered me too.
...
>just about any circumstance.
Don,
Your layout's pictured in Sportflight, isn't it? I like it, but I
hope I don't have to go to those lengths to make it work!
Guy Buchanan
K-IV 1200 / 582 / 99.9% done, thanks mostly to Bob Ducar.
Do not archive
_________________________________________________________________
Become a fitness fanatic @ http://xtramsn.co.nz/health
Message 35
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| Subject: | Re: water temp 582 |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Don Smythe" <dosmythe@cox.net>
My latest mod is not in Sportflight only the one I did as a temporary test.
My final fix was very labor intensive. I'll see if I can get some pics
soon.
Don Smythe
----- Original Message -----
From: "Guy Buchanan" <bnn@nethere.com>
Sent: Friday, May 26, 2006 6:08 PM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: water temp 582
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Guy Buchanan <bnn@nethere.com>
>
> At 11:11 AM 5/26/2006, you wrote:
>>That bothered me too.
>
> ...
>
>>just about any circumstance.
>
> Don,
> Your layout's pictured in Sportflight, isn't it? I like it, but I
> hope I don't have to go to those lengths to make it work!
>
>
> Guy Buchanan
> K-IV 1200 / 582 / 99.9% done, thanks mostly to Bob Ducar.
>
> Do not archive
>
>
>
Message 36
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| Subject: | Re: water temp 582 |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "John Anderson" <janderson412@hotmail.com>
Don, it that radiator the NSI brass model, I had one and just couldn't get
the temps down. Replace with an alumium unit and 15c drop in temp!! John A.
From: "Don Smythe" <dosmythe@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: water temp 582
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Don Smythe" <dosmythe@cox.net>
My latest mod is not in Sportflight only the one I did as a temporary test.
My final fix was very labor intensive. I'll see if I can get some pics
soon.
Don Smythe
----- Original Message -----
From: "Guy Buchanan" <bnn@nethere.com>
Sent: Friday, May 26, 2006 6:08 PM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: water temp 582
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Guy Buchanan <bnn@nethere.com>
>
> At 11:11 AM 5/26/2006, you wrote:
>>That bothered me too.
>
> ...
>
>>just about any circumstance.
>
> Don,
> Your layout's pictured in Sportflight, isn't it? I like it, but I
> hope I don't have to go to those lengths to make it work!
>
>
> Guy Buchanan
> K-IV 1200 / 582 / 99.9% done, thanks mostly to Bob Ducar.
>
> Do not archive
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
Become a fitness fanatic @ http://xtramsn.co.nz/health
Message 37
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| Subject: | Re: water temp 582 |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "John Anderson" <janderson412@hotmail.com>
Don, 180F or 82C sounds ok, my t/stat is 88C. John A.
From: "John Anderson" <janderson412@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: water temp 582
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "John Anderson"
<janderson412@hotmail.com>
Don, it that radiator the NSI brass model, I had one and just couldn't get
the temps down. Replace with an alumium unit and 15c drop in temp!! John A.
From: "Don Smythe" <dosmythe@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: water temp 582
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Don Smythe" <dosmythe@cox.net>
My latest mod is not in Sportflight only the one I did as a temporary test.
My final fix was very labor intensive. I'll see if I can get some pics
soon.
Don Smythe
----- Original Message -----
From: "Guy Buchanan" <bnn@nethere.com>
Sent: Friday, May 26, 2006 6:08 PM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: water temp 582
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Guy Buchanan <bnn@nethere.com>
>
> At 11:11 AM 5/26/2006, you wrote:
>>That bothered me too.
>
> ...
>
>>just about any circumstance.
>
> Don,
> Your layout's pictured in Sportflight, isn't it? I like it, but
I
> hope I don't have to go to those lengths to make it work!
>
>
> Guy Buchanan
> K-IV 1200 / 582 / 99.9% done, thanks mostly to Bob Ducar.
>
> Do not archive
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
Become a fitness fanatic @ http://xtramsn.co.nz/health
_________________________________________________________________
Need a new job? Check out XtraMSN Careers http://xtramsn.co.nz/careers
Message 38
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| Subject: | Re: Kitfox tanks and blended ethanol |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: PWilson <pwmac@sisna.com>
And Skystar used the exact same resin that is used in your local gas
station. It is compatible with ethanol. Trouble is: 1) They didn't
start using the new resin until late in the M4 or M5 production run.
2) pinholes could still be present. This product is called something
like ~Aflac~, but I have no idea how it is spelled. If someone does
not give us the correct name for this resin then I will have to do a
lot of digging. Like Don I found a coating but its not West, I used a
Randolf coating that is suppose to be compatible. But the plane is
still not finished so I have no report if it is true.
BTW, Using a resin to coat the tank is a big deal. Just ask Don about
all the trouble he went to. The epoxy resin is much harder to use
than a sloshing liquid.
The best solution if you have a leak is to do the research and re
slosh coat the tanks with the best stuff you can find. BTW, My early
tanks were coated with The old Kreme and when I pressurized them for
a leak test there were pinhole leaks on the top surface.
Interestingly the pinholes were where the grey epoxy paint had been scratched.
I think we are all in trouble when the standard auto fuel becomes E85
because the engine will have low performance even if your fuel system
does not ge corroded and fail..
Regards, Paul
=============================
At 02:04 PM 5/26/2006, you wrote:
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Dave" <dave@cfisher.com>
>
>Don,
>
>I cannot find link but there is a product that is compatible with ethanol .
>I think it was called red- something.
>besides most gas stations have fiberglass tanks and contain ethanol fuel.
>
>I have no idea if our fuel in Canada has ethanol yet or what percentage but
>so far , so good .
>
>I have heard of some tank's lining turning to gel and clogging up fuel
>filters.
>
>Dave
Message 39
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|
| Subject: | Re: Flaperon skin thickness |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: PWilson <pwmac@sisna.com>
If were you I would go the building supply place and get the
thinnest Al they sell. Last time I did that I found it was 0.016"
thick. It is hardened so if you need some bend then you will have to
anneal/normalize it with your torch. Its unlikely that Skystar used
anything thinner.
Regards, Paul
=================
At 02:46 PM 5/26/2006, you wrote:
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Tim Vader" <vadert@telusplanet.net>
>
>Hi
> Can anyone tell me the the thickness of the flaperon skin on a Model =
>IV 1200. I'm away from home and my construction manual, and would like =
>to order aluminum to repair my flaperon.
>
>Tim Vader
>Calgary, Canada
Message 40
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|
| Subject: | Re: water temp 582 |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Don Smythe" <dosmythe@cox.net>
John,
Your setup is similar to what I ended up with. I call it the P51 mod.
All the air from your cowl is entering the rad input.
Don Smythe
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Anderson" <janderson412@hotmail.com>
Sent: Friday, May 26, 2006 6:38 PM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: water temp 582
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "John Anderson"
> <janderson412@hotmail.com>
>
> My setup works very well too Guy, climb and extened taxi max 95c and 85-90
> cruise.. John A.
Message 41
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| Subject: | Re: water temp 582 |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Don Smythe" <dosmythe@cox.net>
No, the brass you see in the pic is temporary copper tubing from Lowes. The
Rad is the standard 582 radiator however, I think Skystar upgraded the rad
size somewhere along the way. Mine was "once" referred to as the 618
radiator?????
Don Smythe
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Anderson" <janderson412@hotmail.com>
Sent: Friday, May 26, 2006 6:50 PM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: water temp 582
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "John Anderson"
> <janderson412@hotmail.com>
>
>
> Don, it that radiator the NSI brass model, I had one and just couldn't get
> the temps down. Replace with an alumium unit and 15c drop in temp!! John
> A.
Message 42
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| Subject: | Re: water temp 582 |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Don Smythe" <dosmythe@cox.net>
Everything I've ever read states 180 degrees (or 176) is the max operating
temp. Therefore to me, 180 is OK as a max temp. When my EIS flashes at
180, I pucker....
Don Smythe
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Anderson" <janderson412@hotmail.com>
Sent: Friday, May 26, 2006 7:02 PM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: water temp 582
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "John Anderson"
> <janderson412@hotmail.com>
>
> Don, 180F or 82C sounds ok, my t/stat is 88C. John A.
>
Message 43
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| Subject: | Re: water temp 582 |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: michael burkhardt <mjbavid@yahoo.com>
has anyone thought to call Rotax!
--- Don Smythe <dosmythe@cox.net> wrote:
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Don Smythe"
> <dosmythe@cox.net>
>
> Everything I've ever read states 180 degrees (or
> 176) is the max operating
> temp. Therefore to me, 180 is OK as a max temp.
> When my EIS flashes at
> 180, I pucker....
>
> Don Smythe
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "John Anderson" <janderson412@hotmail.com>
> To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Friday, May 26, 2006 7:02 PM
> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: water temp 582
>
>
> > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "John Anderson"
>
> > <janderson412@hotmail.com>
> >
> > Don, 180F or 82C sounds ok, my t/stat is 88C. John
> A.
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List
>
>
> Admin.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________________________
Message 44
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| Subject: | Re: Kitfox tanks and blended ethanol |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt@sbcglobal.net>
I have done a little research on alcohol / fuel resistent resins for a
project I have been working on for the past several years and (please verify
this info before using it to modify anything in your fuel sustems) this is
what I "think" I have found.
First there are many formulations for epoxy resins. Some are more chemical
resistant than others. The info I have seems to indicate that the "hard"
resins are more chemical resistant vs. the "structural resins that are
"softer" and more fracture resistant. Lancair for example will paint a fuel
resistant coating on the internal surfaces of all fuel bays before closing
the wing. In fact they recommend covering onto the mating surfaces
(capstrips) about 1/8inch so that the Hysol will overlay the fuel coating
that much and the squeeze out will give that much more protection. Of
course the wing spars, ribs and capstrips are formed of a structural epoxy -
glass or carbon fiber composite.
In my application, I have found that the best result is achieved by covering
with the hard epoxy followed by two layers of an alcohol resistant tank
sealer. Most tank sealers are formulated for auto fuels and designed for
metal tanks.
Lowell
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michel Verheughe" <michel@online.no>
Sent: Friday, May 26, 2006 2:08 PM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Kitfox tanks and blended ethanol
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no>
>
> On May 26, 2006, at 9:46 PM, Don Smythe wrote:
>> I did just that on my tanks. Cut them open and coated the interiors
>> with West Systems Epoxy (after removing the cracking Kreeme).
>
> Well, Don and Dave, what I did was to call Shell Norway (because I use
> a Shell station to fill my cans of MOGAS) and asked them about ethanol
> in Norway. A person answered that there was still none but that it
> would come shortly, as part of a request from the European Union
> directives.
> I mentioned then my worry for our fiberglass tanks. To which that
> person was interested because - as you say, Dave - many petrol station
> tanks are made of fiberglass but ... coated with epoxy.
> But I agree with Don that a coating should be done thoroughly if it is
> supposed to work. Did you clean your tanks with acetone before coating
> them, Don?
>
> Cheers,
> Michel
>
>
>
Message 45
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| Subject: | ethanol blended fuel and Ellison TBI |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "wingsdown" <wingsdown@comcast.net>
Well the owner certainly could replace them, but they will not sell you
the parts. Best not to take a chance.
Rick
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Clem
Nichols
Sent: Friday, May 26, 2006 3:13 PM
Subject: Kitfox-List: ethanol blended fuel and Ellison TBI
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Clem Nichols" <cnichols@scrtc.com>
Does anyone in the group have experience running 10% ethanol blended =
fuel through an Ellison throttle body injector? Ellison says to not do
= it because of possibly damaging internal components which, as I =
understand, are not owner replaceable. So far I've had no trouble =
finding ethanol-free gasoline, but that may not last for long.
Clem Nichols
Message 46
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|
| Subject: | Re: water temp 582 |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Richard Rabbers" <rira1950@yahoo.com>
Are there some guidelines for radiator selection?
Clearly there are a zillion facets to cooling, coolant, location, in-out pressures,
etc. I'd welcome a basic starting point. Is there a HP per sq inch or something
like that? I have a 618.
I found a comment regarding the size of a 918 Radiator - somewhere.
The radiator for the 912 must have 78 sq-in of surface area.
Radiator selection and mounting is one of the big items on my list.
I liked the horizontal - inside the cowl mounting that someone on this list posted
a few months ago.
--------
Richard in SW Michigan
Model 1 / 618 - full-lotus floats (restoration)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=36733#36733
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| Subject: | Re: water temp 582 |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Richard Rabbers" <rira1950@yahoo.com>
> Don - has anyone thought to call Rotax!
I guess that would be the best solution. I'll report what I am able to learn on
size, though welcome any input, rad sources, etc.
--------
Richard in SW Michigan
Model 1 / 618 - full-lotus floats (restoration)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=36734#36734
Message 48
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| Subject: | Re: Rotax carb socket |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Torgeir Mortensen <torgemor@online.no>
Hi Larry,
Never bought this type of sockets, just found the link.
However, I'll guess it's the P/N 07-475 - Ski-Doo, this Ski_Doo has a 503
engine using Bing 36 MM, same as 582 ??
My engine is a 532 using the flanged sockets, looks like the one on 912,
but not the same size.
Here is a link to a pdf file showing all the different type of snowmobile
with their engines:
http://www.cometic.com/catalogs/SnowCat04.pdf
Maybe someone close to such a shop can find out??
Good Luck.
Torgeir.
On Fri, 26 May 2006 15:32:58 -0500, Larry Martin <CrownLJ@verizon.net>
wrote:
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Larry Martin" <CrownLJ@verizon.net>
>
> Hey Torgeir,
>
> That's the same company that I found! Did you buy for a 582, or 912?
> =
> I was wondering if the 07-481-1 - Ski-Doo Carb Flange is the same for =
> the 582?
>
> Larry
>
>
--
Using M2, Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/m2/
Message 49
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| Subject: | Re: water temp 582 |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Jerry Liles <wliles@bayou.com>
Avids, except for the Catalina amphibian have their radiators in the
cowl. I don't believe I've ever seen an Avid with any other location.
Jerry Liles
Avid MK IV
Dave wrote:
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Dave" <dave@cfisher.com>
>
>Yes - I agree Marco.
>
>Also I think i mentioned in last post that the further back the rad the
>better the cooling. Some Avids have the rad back by the Wing Attach struts
>and seem to run super cool.
>
>Mine sits right below the control sticks in Kitfox IV and no heating issues
>at all.
>
>
>Dave
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Marco Menezes" <msm_9949@yahoo.com>
>To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
>Sent: Friday, May 26, 2006 1:57 PM
>Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: water temp 582
>
>
>
>
>>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Marco Menezes <msm_9949@yahoo.com>
>>
>>I'll go out on a limb, Guy. I'll bet a beer that your 190 becomes 170 at
>>65 mph. Takers? But before you try it in the air, do a run-up as suggested
>>with water from a hose directed over the rad. If it's still 190, bet's
>>off.
>>
>>Guy Buchanan <bnn@nethere.com> wrote: --> Kitfox-List message posted by:
>>Guy Buchanan
>>
>>At 04:27 AM 5/26/2006, you wrote:
>>
>>
>>>One thing I would like to add is on initial start up and Break - in you
>>>can
>>>attach a garden hose in front of rad to allow for the extra cooling you
>>>may
>>>need on ground.
>>>
>>>Your Rotax breakin for new engines should be just over 1 hour in length
>>>and
>>>with spurts up to 6500 RPM .
>>>
>>>
>>...
>>
>>
>>
>>>Dave
>>>
>>>
>>Dave,
>>Fortunately Bob Robertson already broke the engine in on the bench
>>some years ago. I'm just checking systems now. The water is a good idea,
>>though I'll have to dig around at the airport to get some.
>>My main question was whether 190 on the ground results in
>>something less in the air. Nobody's said anything definitive either way so
>>I'll just have to try it.
>>
>>
>>Guy Buchanan
>>K-IV 1200 / 582 / 99.9% done, thanks mostly to Bob Ducar.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>Marco Menezes
>>Model 2 582 N99KX
>>
>>---------------------------------
>>Get on board. You're invited to try the new Yahoo! Mail Beta.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 50
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| Subject: | Kitfox tanks and blended ethanol |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "flier" <flier@sbcglobal.net>
All very good discussions. That's what I wanted to get started to see if
anyone comes up with other creative ideas. All us auto gas types will have
the problem eventually. Just those in the US immediately!
I've even toyed with simply draining my tanks after every flight. Spending
a few hundred bucks to set up a pump system to keep from spending the money
to redo the tanks and covering. I personally am more concerned about the
tanks than the rest of the fuel system as the rest of the system (lines,
etc) is pretty easily replaced as compared to those darn tanks. The 912
carbs should not be a problem.
Keep the ideas coming! :^)
Thanks,
Ted
Message 51
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Guy Buchanan <bnn@nethere.com>
At 03:27 PM 5/26/2006, you wrote:
>Check out my radiator location on SportFlight. It worked very well, the
>speeds increased, and the 'fox classic lines are undisturbed.
Bradley,
That is the wildest radiator install I've ever seen! You don't
show any pictures with the cowl, but I'm assuming it works because the
radiator is the ONLY cowl outlet? Therefore all that air coming in the big
round inlet has to go through the radiator?
Guy Buchanan
K-IV 1200 / 582 / 99.9% done, thanks mostly to Bob Ducar.
Do not archive
Message 52
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| Subject: | Kitfox tanks and blended ethanol |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "jdmcbean" <jdmcbean@cableone.net>
Paul,
It is ATLAC.. I have looked into it some.. very short self life and very
difficult to come by.. also needs to be purchased in large quantities..
Fly Safe !!
John & Debra McBean
www.sportplanellc.com
"The Sky is not the Limit... It's a Playground"
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of PWilson
Sent: Friday, May 26, 2006 4:50 PM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Kitfox tanks and blended ethanol
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: PWilson <pwmac@sisna.com>
And Skystar used the exact same resin that is used in your local gas
station. It is compatible with ethanol. Trouble is: 1) They didn't
start using the new resin until late in the M4 or M5 production run.
2) pinholes could still be present. This product is called something
like ~Aflac~, but I have no idea how it is spelled. If someone does
not give us the correct name for this resin then I will have to do a
lot of digging. Like Don I found a coating but its not West, I used a
Randolf coating that is suppose to be compatible. But the plane is
still not finished so I have no report if it is true.
BTW, Using a resin to coat the tank is a big deal. Just ask Don about
all the trouble he went to. The epoxy resin is much harder to use
than a sloshing liquid.
The best solution if you have a leak is to do the research and re
slosh coat the tanks with the best stuff you can find. BTW, My early
tanks were coated with The old Kreme and when I pressurized them for
a leak test there were pinhole leaks on the top surface.
Interestingly the pinholes were where the grey epoxy paint had been
scratched.
I think we are all in trouble when the standard auto fuel becomes E85
because the engine will have low performance even if your fuel system
does not ge corroded and fail..
Regards, Paul
=============================
At 02:04 PM 5/26/2006, you wrote:
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Dave" <dave@cfisher.com>
>
>Don,
>
>I cannot find link but there is a product that is compatible with ethanol .
>I think it was called red- something.
>besides most gas stations have fiberglass tanks and contain ethanol fuel.
>
>I have no idea if our fuel in Canada has ethanol yet or what percentage but
>so far , so good .
>
>I have heard of some tank's lining turning to gel and clogging up fuel
>filters.
>
>Dave
--
--
Message 53
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| Subject: | Re: water temp 582 |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "John Anderson" <janderson412@hotmail.com>
Are you talking 582 here Don? We might be a cross perposes..
From: "Don Smythe" <dosmythe@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: water temp 582
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Don Smythe" <dosmythe@cox.net>
Everything I've ever read states 180 degrees (or 176) is the max operating
temp. Therefore to me, 180 is OK as a max temp. When my EIS flashes at
180, I pucker....
Don Smythe
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Anderson" <janderson412@hotmail.com>
Sent: Friday, May 26, 2006 7:02 PM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: water temp 582
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "John Anderson"
> <janderson412@hotmail.com>
>
> Don, 180F or 82C sounds ok, my t/stat is 88C. John A.
>
_________________________________________________________________
Discover fun and games at @ http://xtramsn.co.nz/kids
Message 54
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| Subject: | Re: water temp 582 |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "John Anderson" <janderson412@hotmail.com>
Well, yes and no Don. I have a seperator plate in the lower cowl so the air
that enters the lower inlet goes through the rad, the lower part of the
engine sump is in this airflow also.
The air in the upper cowl exits at the lower side vents and 3 louver vents.
John
From: "Don Smythe" <dosmythe@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: water temp 582
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Don Smythe" <dosmythe@cox.net>
John,
Your setup is similar to what I ended up with. I call it the P51 mod.
All the air from your cowl is entering the rad input.
Don Smythe
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Anderson" <janderson412@hotmail.com>
Sent: Friday, May 26, 2006 6:38 PM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: water temp 582
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "John Anderson"
> <janderson412@hotmail.com>
>
> My setup works very well too Guy, climb and extened taxi max 95c and
85-90
> cruise.. John A.
_________________________________________________________________
Discover fun and games at @ http://xtramsn.co.nz/kids
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