Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 07:32 AM - TOWBAR FOR M4 SPEEDSTER (Donald STEVENSON)
2. 07:40 AM - Re: Corn Gas - Auto Fuel (Fox5flyer)
3. 08:19 AM - Re: Re: Series 7 Stick Forces? (Rueb, Duane)
4. 09:33 AM - Re: Re: Series 7 Stick Forces? (JOHN LARSEN)
5. 09:52 AM - Re: Re: Series 7 Stick Forces? (wingsdown)
6. 10:10 AM - Re: Re: Series 7 Stick Forces? (kurt schrader)
7. 10:32 AM - fuck you fuck you (Mehmet Toprak)
8. 10:36 AM - Flaps or no flaps on crosswind lanings in a heavy V (Harris, Robert)
9. 10:37 AM - Re: (Algate)
10. 10:46 AM - Gasoline and ethanol (Tim Vader)
11. 10:53 AM - Re: Re: Series 7 Stick Forces? (Rueb, Duane)
12. 10:53 AM - Re: (Cory Emberson)
13. 10:57 AM - Re: Corn Gas - Auto Fuel (kurt schrader)
14. 11:25 AM - Re: (Fox5flyer)
15. 11:26 AM - Re: Flaps or no flaps on crosswind lanings in a heavy V (kurt schrader)
16. 11:28 AM - Re: (kurt schrader)
17. 11:32 AM - Re: Nose Wheel Shimmy (kurt schrader)
18. 11:57 AM - Re: Flaps or no flaps on crosswind lanings in a heavy V (Dave)
19. 11:57 AM - Re: Flaps or no flaps on crosswind lanings in a heavy V (Harris, Robert)
20. 11:58 AM - Re: Subaru EA81 oil (kurt schrader)
21. 12:00 PM - Re: Gasoline and ethanol (Dave)
22. 12:06 PM - Re: Re: Series 7 Stick Forces? (Harris, Robert)
23. 12:09 PM - Re: Flaps or no flaps on crosswind lanings in a heavy V (Algate)
24. 12:10 PM - Re: Re: Series 7 Stick Forces? (kurt schrader)
25. 12:13 PM - Re: Gasoline and ethanol (kurt schrader)
26. 12:13 PM - Re: (Algate)
27. 12:22 PM - Re: Oil pressure (kurt schrader)
28. 01:02 PM - Re: Gasoline and ethanol (Tim Vader)
29. 01:41 PM - Re: Gasoline and ethanol (Mike Chaney)
30. 01:44 PM - Re: Oil pressure (John Anderson)
31. 01:48 PM - Re: Re: Pedal torque tube bushings? Question? (skyflyte@comcast.net)
32. 01:48 PM - Re: Corn Gas - Auto Fuel (Randy Daughenbaugh)
33. 01:54 PM - Re: Subaru EA81 oil (John Anderson)
34. 02:15 PM - Pompano Beach, FL Kitfoxers? (Andrew Matthaey)
35. 02:29 PM - Re: Gasoline and ethanol (Tim Vader)
36. 02:31 PM - West System Epoxy answer (Michel Verheughe)
37. 03:20 PM - Re: Gasoline and ethanol (Dave G.)
38. 03:48 PM - Re: Gasoline and ethanol (kurt schrader)
39. 03:52 PM - Re: West System Epoxy answer (Don Smythe)
40. 04:08 PM - Re: Subaru EA81 oil (kurt schrader)
41. 04:10 PM - Re: Corn Gas - Auto Fuel (kurt schrader)
42. 04:17 PM - Re: Subaru EA81 oil (wingsdown)
43. 04:24 PM - Re: West System Epoxy answer (darinh)
44. 04:34 PM - Re: Re: West System Epoxy answer (wingsdown)
45. 05:02 PM - Re: Gasoline and ethanol (Ted Palamarek)
46. 05:42 PM - Re: Gasoline and ethanol (Tim Vader)
47. 06:39 PM - 582 radiator (Malcolmbru@aol.com)
48. 07:43 PM - Wing tanks (Dee Young)
49. 09:23 PM - kitfox iv builders manual (Mark Thompson)
50. 09:23 PM - fuel tanks (Mark Thompson)
51. 09:23 PM - Re: Nose Wheel Shimmy (jdmcbean)
52. 09:43 PM - kitfox iv owners manual (Mark Thompson)
53. 10:19 PM - Re: Re: West System Epoxy answer (ron schick)
Message 1
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| Subject: | TOWBAR FOR M4 SPEEDSTER |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Donald STEVENSON <shericom@rogers.com>
Hi everyone, I am looking for a towbar for my soon to be completed M4 Speedster.
I have a drawing to build one, but thought I would first check to see if anyone
has a factory built one they wish to sell, new or used. Thanks, Don
Don Stevenson, Caledon Ontario Canada
Email: shericom@rogers.com
M4/1200 Speedster-912
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Corn Gas - Auto Fuel |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Fox5flyer" <morid@northland.lib.mi.us>
Great post Dave.
Thanks,
Deke
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave and Diane" <ddsyverson@comcast.net>
Sent: Monday, May 29, 2006 11:33 AM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Corn Gas - Auto Fuel
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Dave and Diane <ddsyverson@comcast.net>
>
> There probably is a lot more to be said about yet about this subject; I
see no
> one has talked much about the energy content, but we have touched a bit on
> the vapor presasure issue.
>
> Corn gas (what we call ethanol in the US - Midwest - probably need to
change
> that to "cane gas" where it is made from sugar cane) has a couple
> characteristics that make it unique in addition to the structural effects
on
> our equipment.
...snip
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Series 7 Stick Forces? |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Rueb, Duane" <ruebd@skymail.csus.edu>
Darin and 5 plus pilots
I have a series 5 with a Continental IO-240B4B doing the towing.
Both myself and my instructor find the stick force required to approach
at 65mph indicated and to flare to be quite high, and a true 3 point is
almost not possible, even with the stick in your stomach and the trim at
the up limit. The more flap used, the worse this becomes.
My instructor has suggested that a stick extension be added to
reduce the force and overall sensitivity (he is also an accomplished
machinist). I haven't wanted to do this as a modification to the sticks
I now have, but we may try this with a stick that is made from scratch,
and can fold so that entry and exit will still be possible. At cruise,
the elevator force/response function is fine, and is very sensitive to
minor changes in trim.
We have also discussed gap sealing the elevator, as that gap is
quite large, and some benefit to elevator authority should result from
this, which is confirmed by some of the recent posts on the topic.
The rudder gap is very small on mine, and quite clean as is, so I do not
see any reason to seal that one, which is very effective under all
reasonable speeds.
The rudder gap is very small on mine, and quite clean as is, so I do not
see any reason to seal that one, which is very effective under all
reasonable speeds.
The rudder gap is very small on mine, and quite clean as is, so I do not
see any reason to seal that one, which is very effective under all
reasonable speeds.
My opinion is that some aerodynamic counter force should have
been designed into the horizontal surfaces of these models, which were
otherwise well evolved to accept the heavier engines, and made more
aerodynamic by using the shaped ribs.
I will soon install the "help me Joe" kit that McBean has
developed for the 5 thru 7 series to help with the elevator force when
flaps are used, and I will do gap sealing, and then report the results.
I am also planning to change the tail wheel to an 8" pneumatic, which is
1 lb heavier than what I have now. 1 lb is not a lot, but it is as far
back as can be, so it should help a little.
Duane Rueb
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of darinh
Sent: Saturday, May 20, 2006 5:58 PM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: Series 7 Stick Forces?
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "darinh" <gerns25@netscape.net>
Thanks guys, I guess I won't worry about it.
Darin
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=35611#35611
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Series 7 Stick Forces? |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: JOHN LARSEN <jopatco@mindspring.com>
Sound like your plane is nose heavy.
-----Original Message-----
>From: "Rueb, Duane" <ruebd@skymail.csus.edu>
>Sent: May 30, 2006 11:18 AM
>To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Re: Series 7 Stick Forces?
>
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Rueb, Duane" <ruebd@skymail.csus.edu>
>
>Darin and 5 plus pilots
>
> I have a series 5 with a Continental IO-240B4B doing the towing.
>Both myself and my instructor find the stick force required to approach
>at 65mph indicated and to flare to be quite high, and a true 3 point is
>almost not possible, even with the stick in your stomach and the trim at
>the up limit. The more flap used, the worse this becomes.
> My instructor has suggested that a stick extension be added to
>reduce the force and overall sensitivity (he is also an accomplished
>machinist). I haven't wanted to do this as a modification to the sticks
>I now have, but we may try this with a stick that is made from scratch,
>and can fold so that entry and exit will still be possible. At cruise,
>the elevator force/response function is fine, and is very sensitive to
>minor changes in trim.
> We have also discussed gap sealing the elevator, as that gap is
>quite large, and some benefit to elevator authority should result from
>this, which is confirmed by some of the recent posts on the topic.
>The rudder gap is very small on mine, and quite clean as is, so I do not
>see any reason to seal that one, which is very effective under all
>reasonable speeds.
>The rudder gap is very small on mine, and quite clean as is, so I do not
>see any reason to seal that one, which is very effective under all
>reasonable speeds.
>The rudder gap is very small on mine, and quite clean as is, so I do not
>see any reason to seal that one, which is very effective under all
>reasonable speeds.
> My opinion is that some aerodynamic counter force should have
>been designed into the horizontal surfaces of these models, which were
>otherwise well evolved to accept the heavier engines, and made more
>aerodynamic by using the shaped ribs.
> I will soon install the "help me Joe" kit that McBean has
>developed for the 5 thru 7 series to help with the elevator force when
>flaps are used, and I will do gap sealing, and then report the results.
>I am also planning to change the tail wheel to an 8" pneumatic, which is
>1 lb heavier than what I have now. 1 lb is not a lot, but it is as far
>back as can be, so it should help a little.
>
>Duane Rueb
>
> -----Original Message-----
>From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of darinh
>Sent: Saturday, May 20, 2006 5:58 PM
>To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: Series 7 Stick Forces?
>
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "darinh" <gerns25@netscape.net>
>
>Thanks guys, I guess I won't worry about it.
>
>Darin
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=35611#35611
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Series 7 Stick Forces? |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "wingsdown" <wingsdown@comcast.net>
Did you sweep the wings forward for the heavier engine? If the stick is
all the way back the assist really wont be the answer. You need a bigger
elevator. I would also think , just guessing that even an elevator as a
maximum AOA to which point it ceases to be effective, not sure. I would
still try a quick gap seal, little to loose. My turbo NSI was heavy but
always light on the stick. If I had ever put the stick in my belly I
would have done at loop. Where is the battery?
Rick
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rueb, Duane
Sent: Tuesday, May 30, 2006 8:18 AM
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Re: Series 7 Stick Forces?
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Rueb, Duane"
--> <ruebd@skymail.csus.edu>
Darin and 5 plus pilots
I have a series 5 with a Continental IO-240B4B doing the towing.
Both myself and my instructor find the stick force required to approach
at 65mph indicated and to flare to be quite high, and a true 3 point is
almost not possible, even with the stick in your stomach and the trim at
the up limit. The more flap used, the worse this becomes.
My instructor has suggested that a stick extension be added to
reduce the force and overall sensitivity (he is also an accomplished
machinist). I haven't wanted to do this as a modification to the sticks
I now have, but we may try this with a stick that is made from scratch,
and can fold so that entry and exit will still be possible. At cruise,
the elevator force/response function is fine, and is very sensitive to
minor changes in trim.
We have also discussed gap sealing the elevator, as that gap is
quite large, and some benefit to elevator authority should result from
this, which is confirmed by some of the recent posts on the topic.
The rudder gap is very small on mine, and quite clean as is, so I do not
see any reason to seal that one, which is very effective under all
reasonable speeds.
The rudder gap is very small on mine, and quite clean as is, so I do not
see any reason to seal that one, which is very effective under all
reasonable speeds.
The rudder gap is very small on mine, and quite clean as is, so I do not
see any reason to seal that one, which is very effective under all
reasonable speeds.
My opinion is that some aerodynamic counter force should have
been designed into the horizontal surfaces of these models, which were
otherwise well evolved to accept the heavier engines, and made more
aerodynamic by using the shaped ribs.
I will soon install the "help me Joe" kit that McBean has
developed for the 5 thru 7 series to help with the elevator force when
flaps are used, and I will do gap sealing, and then report the results.
I am also planning to change the tail wheel to an 8" pneumatic, which is
1 lb heavier than what I have now. 1 lb is not a lot, but it is as far
back as can be, so it should help a little.
Duane Rueb
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of darinh
Sent: Saturday, May 20, 2006 5:58 PM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: Series 7 Stick Forces?
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "darinh" <gerns25@netscape.net>
Thanks guys, I guess I won't worry about it.
Darin
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=35611#35611
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Series 7 Stick Forces? |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: kurt schrader <smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
Hi Duane,
You must be operating right at the forward CG limit.
Where is your battery and ELT?
Adding the extra 1 lb to the tail will help. More
would be better. Just 5 lbs back there makes a big
difference. Also the gap seals and maybe vortex
generators under the horizontal stab would do good
too.
If you move the CG a little more aft you will find
that your stick will be fine as is.
The electric trim has always been a bit overpowering
and there is a "fix" somewhere in this list's history.
I trim and immediately beep once for opposite trim to
make small changes. After a few such reversals I can
get mine to hold right on altitude, but a 1/2 rate or
manual trim would be better. Is yours manual?
The more off the center of your CG, the more touchy
the trim is.
I am near the fwd CG limit too. For my testing, I
added 7 gallons of water to the baggage compartment to
achieve center CG flight. It flys there as
advertised. I kept to the fwd limit so I could carry
max pax and cargo and stay in limits. With just me on
board, I can trim to 60 knots and 3 point up to 1/2
flaps. Full flaps takes some work but I can get a
stall there too.
Kurt S. S-5/NSI turbo
--- "Rueb, Duane" <ruebd@skymail.csus.edu> wrote:
> Darin and 5 plus pilots
>
> I have a series 5 with a Continental IO-240B4B
> doing the towing.
> Both myself and my instructor find the stick force
> required to approach
> at 65mph indicated and to flare to be quite high,
> and a true 3 point is
> almost not possible, even with the stick in your
> stomach and the trim at
> the up limit. The more flap used, the worse this
> becomes.
__________________________________________________
Message 7
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| Subject: | fuck you fuck you |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Mehmet Toprak" <kurdperest@hotmail.com>
fuck you mather
>From: kurt schrader <smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
>To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Re: Series 7 Stick Forces?
>Date: Tue, 30 May 2006 10:08:01 -0700 (PDT)
>
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: kurt schrader
><smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
>
>Hi Duane,
>
>You must be operating right at the forward CG limit.
>Where is your battery and ELT?
>
>Adding the extra 1 lb to the tail will help. More
>would be better. Just 5 lbs back there makes a big
>difference. Also the gap seals and maybe vortex
>generators under the horizontal stab would do good
>too.
>
>If you move the CG a little more aft you will find
>that your stick will be fine as is.
>
>The electric trim has always been a bit overpowering
>and there is a "fix" somewhere in this list's history.
> I trim and immediately beep once for opposite trim to
>make small changes. After a few such reversals I can
>get mine to hold right on altitude, but a 1/2 rate or
>manual trim would be better. Is yours manual?
>
>The more off the center of your CG, the more touchy
>the trim is.
>
>I am near the fwd CG limit too. For my testing, I
>added 7 gallons of water to the baggage compartment to
>achieve center CG flight. It flys there as
>advertised. I kept to the fwd limit so I could carry
>max pax and cargo and stay in limits. With just me on
>board, I can trim to 60 knots and 3 point up to 1/2
>flaps. Full flaps takes some work but I can get a
>stall there too.
>
>Kurt S. S-5/NSI turbo
>
>--- "Rueb, Duane" <ruebd@skymail.csus.edu> wrote:
>
> > Darin and 5 plus pilots
> >
> > I have a series 5 with a Continental IO-240B4B
> > doing the towing.
> > Both myself and my instructor find the stick force
> > required to approach
> > at 65mph indicated and to flare to be quite high,
> > and a true 3 point is
> > almost not possible, even with the stick in your
> > stomach and the trim at
> > the up limit. The more flap used, the worse this
> > becomes.
>
>__________________________________________________
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
On the road to retirement? Check out MSN Life Events for advice on how to
get there! http://lifeevents.msn.com/category.aspx?cid=Retirement
Message 8
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| Subject: | Flaps or no flaps on crosswind lanings in a heavy V |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Harris, Robert" <Robert_Harris@intuit.com>
Hey Kurt and others,
In crosswind conditions do you find it easier to land with no flaps or
one notch flaps? I have not landed in a significant crosswind yet but I
prefer one notch three point landings for regular landings as I feel I
have more control of the plane and it lands at a much slower speed.
Robert
Model V 0200
San Diego, CA
Message 9
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Algate" <algate@attglobal.net>
I think we have a problem???
Gary Algate
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mehmet Toprak
Sent: Tuesday, May 30, 2006 1:31 PM
Subject: Kitfox-List: fuck you fuck you
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Mehmet Toprak" <kurdperest@hotmail.com>
fuck you mather
>From: kurt schrader <smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
>To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Re: Series 7 Stick Forces?
>Date: Tue, 30 May 2006 10:08:01 -0700 (PDT)
>
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: kurt schrader
><smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
>
>Hi Duane,
>
>You must be operating right at the forward CG limit.
>Where is your battery and ELT?
>
>Adding the extra 1 lb to the tail will help. More
>would be better. Just 5 lbs back there makes a big
>difference. Also the gap seals and maybe vortex
>generators under the horizontal stab would do good
>too.
>
>If you move the CG a little more aft you will find
>that your stick will be fine as is.
>
>The electric trim has always been a bit overpowering
>and there is a "fix" somewhere in this list's history.
> I trim and immediately beep once for opposite trim to
>make small changes. After a few such reversals I can
>get mine to hold right on altitude, but a 1/2 rate or
>manual trim would be better. Is yours manual?
>
>The more off the center of your CG, the more touchy
>the trim is.
>
>I am near the fwd CG limit too. For my testing, I
>added 7 gallons of water to the baggage compartment to
>achieve center CG flight. It flys there as
>advertised. I kept to the fwd limit so I could carry
>max pax and cargo and stay in limits. With just me on
>board, I can trim to 60 knots and 3 point up to 1/2
>flaps. Full flaps takes some work but I can get a
>stall there too.
>
>Kurt S. S-5/NSI turbo
>
>--- "Rueb, Duane" <ruebd@skymail.csus.edu> wrote:
>
> > Darin and 5 plus pilots
> >
> > I have a series 5 with a Continental IO-240B4B
> > doing the towing.
> > Both myself and my instructor find the stick force
> > required to approach
> > at 65mph indicated and to flare to be quite high,
> > and a true 3 point is
> > almost not possible, even with the stick in your
> > stomach and the trim at
> > the up limit. The more flap used, the worse this
> > becomes.
>
>__________________________________________________
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
On the road to retirement? Check out MSN Life Events for advice on how to
get there! http://lifeevents.msn.com/category.aspx?cid=Retirement
Message 10
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| Subject: | Gasoline and ethanol |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Tim Vader" <vadert@telusplanet.net>
Group
About 6 months ago I got a lead from another group member about an =
epoxy gas tank sealer. He directed me to Caswell Plating. They have a =
gas tank sealer kit for 32 bucks that is a phenol novolac epoxy. I just =
used it on one of my tanks and it seems to work very well. I spoke with =
their technical department yesterday and they assured me that this epoxy =
is resistant to gasoline and ethanol. They could not assure me that it =
was methanol resistant (gas line antifreeze) though. =20
Tim Vader
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Series 7 Stick Forces? |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Rueb, Duane" <ruebd@skymail.csus.edu>
Kurt:
My battery is in the back. The ELT is behind the baggage
compartment. Like you, I want to be able to put something in the
baggage compartment and have it be OK, not tail heavy. Thanks for the
tip on the vortex generators on the lower stab. I hadn't thought of
that one, and could probably live with them there. I admit that I am
really just getting to be a tail dragger pilot, but when my instructor
does a demonstration landing he has almost as much trouble as me, and
the last few sessions, I was making better ones than he was, but now I
have made more in this plane than he has too. Of course, what we are
striving for is a true three point. Yes, like you, I like it best with
1/2 flaps so far. I have become skilled at pulsing the trim, as it
sounds like you have.
Duane
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of kurt
schrader
Sent: Tuesday, May 30, 2006 10:08 AM
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Re: Series 7 Stick Forces?
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: kurt schrader
<smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
Hi Duane,
You must be operating right at the forward CG limit.
Where is your battery and ELT?
Adding the extra 1 lb to the tail will help. More
would be better. Just 5 lbs back there makes a big
difference. Also the gap seals and maybe vortex
generators under the horizontal stab would do good
too.
If you move the CG a little more aft you will find
that your stick will be fine as is.
The electric trim has always been a bit overpowering
and there is a "fix" somewhere in this list's history.
I trim and immediately beep once for opposite trim to
make small changes. After a few such reversals I can
get mine to hold right on altitude, but a 1/2 rate or
manual trim would be better. Is yours manual?
The more off the center of your CG, the more touchy
the trim is.
I am near the fwd CG limit too. For my testing, I
added 7 gallons of water to the baggage compartment to
achieve center CG flight. It flys there as
advertised. I kept to the fwd limit so I could carry
max pax and cargo and stay in limits. With just me on
board, I can trim to 60 knots and 3 point up to 1/2
flaps. Full flaps takes some work but I can get a
stall there too.
Kurt S. S-5/NSI turbo
--- "Rueb, Duane" <ruebd@skymail.csus.edu> wrote:
> Darin and 5 plus pilots
>
> I have a series 5 with a Continental IO-240B4B
> doing the towing.
> Both myself and my instructor find the stick force
> required to approach
> at 65mph indicated and to flare to be quite high,
> and a true 3 point is
> almost not possible, even with the stick in your
> stomach and the trim at
> the up limit. The more flap used, the worse this
> becomes.
__________________________________________________
Message 12
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|
| Subject: | Re: Kitfox-List: |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Cory Emberson <bootless@earthlink.net>
Gary, thanks for stripping the subject title.
(Sheesh, and he didn't even say...
do not archive
Algate wrote:
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Algate" <algate@attglobal.net>
>
>I think we have a problem???
>
>Gary Algate
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mehmet Toprak
>Sent: Tuesday, May 30, 2006 1:31 PM
>To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Kitfox-List: fuck you fuck you
>
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Mehmet Toprak" <kurdperest@hotmail.com>
>
>fuck you mather
>
>
>
>
>>From: kurt schrader <smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
>>To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
>>Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Re: Series 7 Stick Forces?
>>Date: Tue, 30 May 2006 10:08:01 -0700 (PDT)
>>
>>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: kurt schrader
>><smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
>>
>>Hi Duane,
>>
>>You must be operating right at the forward CG limit.
>>Where is your battery and ELT?
>>
>>Adding the extra 1 lb to the tail will help. More
>>would be better. Just 5 lbs back there makes a big
>>difference. Also the gap seals and maybe vortex
>>generators under the horizontal stab would do good
>>too.
>>
>>If you move the CG a little more aft you will find
>>that your stick will be fine as is.
>>
>>The electric trim has always been a bit overpowering
>>and there is a "fix" somewhere in this list's history.
>> I trim and immediately beep once for opposite trim to
>>make small changes. After a few such reversals I can
>>get mine to hold right on altitude, but a 1/2 rate or
>>manual trim would be better. Is yours manual?
>>
>>The more off the center of your CG, the more touchy
>>the trim is.
>>
>>I am near the fwd CG limit too. For my testing, I
>>added 7 gallons of water to the baggage compartment to
>>achieve center CG flight. It flys there as
>>advertised. I kept to the fwd limit so I could carry
>>max pax and cargo and stay in limits. With just me on
>>board, I can trim to 60 knots and 3 point up to 1/2
>>flaps. Full flaps takes some work but I can get a
>>stall there too.
>>
>>Kurt S. S-5/NSI turbo
>>
>>--- "Rueb, Duane" <ruebd@skymail.csus.edu> wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>>Darin and 5 plus pilots
>>>
>>> I have a series 5 with a Continental IO-240B4B
>>>doing the towing.
>>>Both myself and my instructor find the stick force
>>>required to approach
>>>at 65mph indicated and to flare to be quite high,
>>>and a true 3 point is
>>>almost not possible, even with the stick in your
>>>stomach and the trim at
>>>the up limit. The more flap used, the worse this
>>>becomes.
>>>
>>>
>>__________________________________________________
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>_________________________________________________________________
>On the road to retirement? Check out MSN Life Events for advice on how to
>get there! http://lifeevents.msn.com/category.aspx?cid=Retirement
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 13
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|
| Subject: | Re: Corn Gas - Auto Fuel |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: kurt schrader <smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
Great post Dave!
I am in Brazil today. The pure alcohol price is about
50% of gas, but there is still a mix of gas, diesel,
alcohol and even propane in use on the roads here.
Feelings are mixed on which is best too. Wish I could
find a fuels expert to ask.
I mostly travel up to 10 miles a day on burger power
when not working. ;-) Good milage, but occasionally
stalls and sputters when running. Clogged carb.
Certainly not lean..... Slow climb rate too. Do you
think 10% alcohol might help? :-)
Kurt S.
Do not archive
__________________________________________________
Message 14
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|
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Fox5flyer" <morid@northland.lib.mi.us>
Problem solved Gary.
Deke
List Admin
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Algate" <algate@attglobal.net>
>
> I think we have a problem???
>
> Gary Algate
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mehmet Toprak
> Sent: Tuesday, May 30, 2006 1:31 PM
> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Kitfox-List: fuck you fuck you
>
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Mehmet Toprak"
<kurdperest@hotmail.com>
>
> fuck you mather
>
>
> >From: kurt schrader <smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
> >To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
> >Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Re: Series 7 Stick Forces?
> >Date: Tue, 30 May 2006 10:08:01 -0700 (PDT)
> >
> >--> Kitfox-List message posted by: kurt schrader
> ><smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
> >
> >Hi Duane,
> >
> >You must be operating right at the forward CG limit.
> >Where is your battery and ELT?
> >
> >Adding the extra 1 lb to the tail will help. More
> >would be better. Just 5 lbs back there makes a big
> >difference. Also the gap seals and maybe vortex
> >generators under the horizontal stab would do good
> >too.
> >
> >If you move the CG a little more aft you will find
> >that your stick will be fine as is.
> >
> >The electric trim has always been a bit overpowering
> >and there is a "fix" somewhere in this list's history.
> > I trim and immediately beep once for opposite trim to
> >make small changes. After a few such reversals I can
> >get mine to hold right on altitude, but a 1/2 rate or
> >manual trim would be better. Is yours manual?
> >
> >The more off the center of your CG, the more touchy
> >the trim is.
> >
> >I am near the fwd CG limit too. For my testing, I
> >added 7 gallons of water to the baggage compartment to
> >achieve center CG flight. It flys there as
> >advertised. I kept to the fwd limit so I could carry
> >max pax and cargo and stay in limits. With just me on
> >board, I can trim to 60 knots and 3 point up to 1/2
> >flaps. Full flaps takes some work but I can get a
> >stall there too.
> >
> >Kurt S. S-5/NSI turbo
> >
> >--- "Rueb, Duane" <ruebd@skymail.csus.edu> wrote:
> >
> > > Darin and 5 plus pilots
> > >
> > > I have a series 5 with a Continental IO-240B4B
> > > doing the towing.
> > > Both myself and my instructor find the stick force
> > > required to approach
> > > at 65mph indicated and to flare to be quite high,
> > > and a true 3 point is
> > > almost not possible, even with the stick in your
> > > stomach and the trim at
> > > the up limit. The more flap used, the worse this
> > > becomes.
> >
> >__________________________________________________
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> On the road to retirement? Check out MSN Life Events for advice on how to
> get there! http://lifeevents.msn.com/category.aspx?cid=Retirement
>
>
Message 15
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|
| Subject: | Re: Flaps or no flaps on crosswind lanings in a heavy V |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: kurt schrader <smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
Where I am now in Florida there are almost constant
crosswinds. My first landing there was 90 degrees 12
gusting to 20. That was the worst I have dealt with
so far. Only 70 hrs in type.
I like the 50% flaps, 3 point stall, dumping them on
touchdown technique. The plane sits right down.
Almost wish I had a twist grip throttle on the flap
handle. Full control of thrust and lift between that
and the stick... Old helo pilot here....
On my second such landing on pavement and second using
that technique during testing, I got confused. I
grabbed and "pulled" full flaps. There I was back 10
feet high, no speed and my hand off the throttle.
Ever hear people laugh on the radio??? ;-)
Haven't found a need for full flaps, unless I really
had to make a short landing in a headwind. So far not
required. I have gottin it down to 30 knots full
flaps and power on in flight, but that is hanging.
Not yet up to doing that for landings.
I added 2 intermediate flap settings on my plane. I
might block out the highest setting for control
purposes. The rest work fine and I can use 1/4 flaps
for takeoff if needed.
Kurt S. S-5
--- "Harris, Robert" <Robert_Harris@intuit.com> wrote:
> Hey Kurt and others,
>
> In crosswind conditions do you find it easier to
> land with no flaps or
> one notch flaps? I have not landed in a significant
> crosswind yet but I
> prefer one notch three point landings for regular
> landings as I feel I
> have more control of the plane and it lands at a
> much slower speed.
>
> Robert
> Model V 0200
> San Diego, CA
__________________________________________________
Message 16
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|
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: kurt schrader <smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
Agreed! Hope it isn't something on this hotel
computer I am using. Should be in Portugese then
though.
Kurt S.
--- Algate <algate@attglobal.net> wrote:
> I think we have a problem???
>
> Gary Algate
__________________________________________________
Message 17
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|
| Subject: | Re: Nose Wheel Shimmy |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: kurt schrader <smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
Hi Roger,
High speed shopping cart? Can you balance the
wheel/tire?
Kurt S.
--- Roger McConnell <rdmac@swbell.net> wrote:
>
> I got a question for you guy or gals that fly
> unconventional gear Kitfoxs.
> Every sense installing the faring on the nose wheel,
> I have had a reoccurring shimmy......
> Roger Mac
__________________________________________________
Message 18
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|
| Subject: | Re: Flaps or no flaps on crosswind lanings in a heavy V |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Dave" <dave@cfisher.com>
Kurt - Good point on crosswinds and flaps. And dumping flaps once gear
touches kills the extra lift and give better braking power.
I will tell you that I only use full flaps for quicker take off and I have a
Model IV that has about 30 degrees down travel. I have read of some that
never use flaps but I almost always do. It will take extra load from gear to
wings quicker on TO and visa cresa on landing. Besides we do want the
shortest adn slowest take off and landings ideally.
Dave
----- Original Message -----
From: "kurt schrader" <smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 30, 2006 2:25 PM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Flaps or no flaps on crosswind lanings in a heavy
V
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: kurt schrader
> <smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
>
> Where I am now in Florida there are almost constant
> crosswinds. My first landing there was 90 degrees 12
> gusting to 20. That was the worst I have dealt with
> so far. Only 70 hrs in type.
>
> I like the 50% flaps, 3 point stall, dumping them on
> touchdown technique. The plane sits right down.
> Almost wish I had a twist grip throttle on the flap
> handle. Full control of thrust and lift between that
> and the stick... Old helo pilot here....
>
> On my second such landing on pavement and second using
> that technique during testing, I got confused. I
> grabbed and "pulled" full flaps. There I was back 10
> feet high, no speed and my hand off the throttle.
> Ever hear people laugh on the radio??? ;-)
>
> Haven't found a need for full flaps, unless I really
> had to make a short landing in a headwind. So far not
> required. I have gottin it down to 30 knots full
> flaps and power on in flight, but that is hanging.
> Not yet up to doing that for landings.
>
> I added 2 intermediate flap settings on my plane. I
> might block out the highest setting for control
> purposes. The rest work fine and I can use 1/4 flaps
> for takeoff if needed.
>
> Kurt S. S-5
>
> --- "Harris, Robert" <Robert_Harris@intuit.com> wrote:
>
>> Hey Kurt and others,
>>
>> In crosswind conditions do you find it easier to
>> land with no flaps or
>> one notch flaps? I have not landed in a significant
>> crosswind yet but I
>> prefer one notch three point landings for regular
>> landings as I feel I
>> have more control of the plane and it lands at a
>> much slower speed.
>>
>> Robert
>> Model V 0200
>> San Diego, CA
>
> __________________________________________________
>
>
>
Message 19
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|
| Subject: | Flaps or no flaps on crosswind lanings in a heavy V |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Harris, Robert" <Robert_Harris@intuit.com>
Thanks Kurt,
I'll practice dumping the flaps.
Robert
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of kurt
schrader
Sent: Tuesday, May 30, 2006 11:26 AM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Flaps or no flaps on crosswind lanings in a
heavy V
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: kurt schrader
<smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
Where I am now in Florida there are almost constant
crosswinds. My first landing there was 90 degrees 12
gusting to 20. That was the worst I have dealt with
so far. Only 70 hrs in type.
I like the 50% flaps, 3 point stall, dumping them on
touchdown technique. The plane sits right down.
Almost wish I had a twist grip throttle on the flap
handle. Full control of thrust and lift between that
and the stick... Old helo pilot here....
On my second such landing on pavement and second using
that technique during testing, I got confused. I
grabbed and "pulled" full flaps. There I was back 10
feet high, no speed and my hand off the throttle.
Ever hear people laugh on the radio??? ;-)
Haven't found a need for full flaps, unless I really
had to make a short landing in a headwind. So far not
required. I have gottin it down to 30 knots full
flaps and power on in flight, but that is hanging.
Not yet up to doing that for landings.
I added 2 intermediate flap settings on my plane. I
might block out the highest setting for control
purposes. The rest work fine and I can use 1/4 flaps
for takeoff if needed.
Kurt S. S-5
--- "Harris, Robert" <Robert_Harris@intuit.com> wrote:
> Hey Kurt and others,
>
> In crosswind conditions do you find it easier to
> land with no flaps or
> one notch flaps? I have not landed in a significant
> crosswind yet but I
> prefer one notch three point landings for regular
> landings as I feel I
> have more control of the plane and it lands at a
> much slower speed.
>
> Robert
> Model V 0200
> San Diego, CA
__________________________________________________
Message 20
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|
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: kurt schrader <smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
OK Rick,
Lance (remember him?) said to try aviation oil and not
synthetic, so I bought it, but didn't try it yet.
Guess I'll sell the case of 100 wt then and get some
semi-synthetic first, and full synthetic later to
compare.
Do I remember correctly, synthetics don't have the
water problem that regular oil does? Sometimes I
still run too cool. Haven't installed the thermostat
yet.
The synthetic should be better for the turbo, if it
doesn't exceed 360F there on shutdown. Wondering
about that since my turbo is normally 450F measured
after shutdown.
If I hit 360F otherwise, I've got more problems.....
Don't remember exceeding 250F so far. 235F max in
climb was more normal before I improved the airflow.
I had a ground run a while back that I shut down from
when the oil pressure was all over the place. I
thought indicator problem or that relief valve. Now I
am leaning to the valve. Couldn't find a wiring
problem and it ran fine in flight, but at lower
pressure than before at the same temps.
Does that relief valve just bypass the filter, or
return to the pan reducing oil flow where it is
needed?
I have always had to deal with low pressure at idle
after warmup, even when running 60+ psi on startup. I
need 210F or less to maintain 30+ psi idle. If
cruising around, I can reduce power for descent and it
will be plenty cool for idle power by landing, but
touch and goes are difficult to keep the temps down.
Ill try an oil change first and see what happens.
Kurt S. S-5 NIS turbo
__________________________________________________
Message 21
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|
| Subject: | Re: Gasoline and ethanol |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Dave" <dave@cfisher.com>
Tim,
Is this ethanol proof?
http://www.caswellplating.com/aids/epoxygas.htm
Dave
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Vader" <vadert@telusplanet.net>
Sent: Tuesday, May 30, 2006 10:23 AM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Gasoline and ethanol
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Tim Vader" <vadert@telusplanet.net>
>
> Group
>
> About 6 months ago I got a lead from another group member about an =
> epoxy gas tank sealer. He directed me to Caswell Plating. They have a =
> gas tank sealer kit for 32 bucks that is a phenol novolac epoxy. I just =
> used it on one of my tanks and it seems to work very well. I spoke with =
> their technical department yesterday and they assured me that this epoxy =
> is resistant to gasoline and ethanol. They could not assure me that it =
> was methanol resistant (gas line antifreeze) though. =20
>
> Tim Vader
>
>
>
Message 22
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|
| Subject: | Re: Series 7 Stick Forces? |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Harris, Robert" <Robert_Harris@intuit.com>
Duane,
You can use Duct tape on your tail feathers for an easy fast fix. My
plane is white so I used White Duct and it looks great and makes my
920lb 0200 Model V do perfect three point landings with 50% flaps. Also
I have John McBean's Elevator Assist installed so the stick pressure is
very light.
Robert
Model V KF
San Diego
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rueb, Duane
Sent: Tuesday, May 30, 2006 10:53 AM
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Re: Series 7 Stick Forces?
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Rueb, Duane"
<ruebd@skymail.csus.edu>
Kurt:
My battery is in the back. The ELT is behind the baggage
compartment. Like you, I want to be able to put something in the
baggage compartment and have it be OK, not tail heavy. Thanks for the
tip on the vortex generators on the lower stab. I hadn't thought of
that one, and could probably live with them there. I admit that I am
really just getting to be a tail dragger pilot, but when my instructor
does a demonstration landing he has almost as much trouble as me, and
the last few sessions, I was making better ones than he was, but now I
have made more in this plane than he has too. Of course, what we are
striving for is a true three point. Yes, like you, I like it best with
1/2 flaps so far. I have become skilled at pulsing the trim, as it
sounds like you have.
Duane
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of kurt
schrader
Sent: Tuesday, May 30, 2006 10:08 AM
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Re: Series 7 Stick Forces?
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: kurt schrader
<smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
Hi Duane,
You must be operating right at the forward CG limit.
Where is your battery and ELT?
Adding the extra 1 lb to the tail will help. More
would be better. Just 5 lbs back there makes a big
difference. Also the gap seals and maybe vortex
generators under the horizontal stab would do good
too.
If you move the CG a little more aft you will find
that your stick will be fine as is.
The electric trim has always been a bit overpowering
and there is a "fix" somewhere in this list's history.
I trim and immediately beep once for opposite trim to
make small changes. After a few such reversals I can
get mine to hold right on altitude, but a 1/2 rate or
manual trim would be better. Is yours manual?
The more off the center of your CG, the more touchy
the trim is.
I am near the fwd CG limit too. For my testing, I
added 7 gallons of water to the baggage compartment to
achieve center CG flight. It flys there as
advertised. I kept to the fwd limit so I could carry
max pax and cargo and stay in limits. With just me on
board, I can trim to 60 knots and 3 point up to 1/2
flaps. Full flaps takes some work but I can get a
stall there too.
Kurt S. S-5/NSI turbo
--- "Rueb, Duane" <ruebd@skymail.csus.edu> wrote:
> Darin and 5 plus pilots
>
> I have a series 5 with a Continental IO-240B4B
> doing the towing.
> Both myself and my instructor find the stick force
> required to approach
> at 65mph indicated and to flare to be quite high,
> and a true 3 point is
> almost not possible, even with the stick in your
> stomach and the trim at
> the up limit. The more flap used, the worse this
> becomes.
__________________________________________________
Message 23
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|
| Subject: | Flaps or no flaps on crosswind lanings in a heavy V |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Algate" <algate@attglobal.net>
I agree totally with Dave,
I almost always use flaps to some degree but in a cross wind I lift the
flaps immediately I have touched down. I find that this gives quick
authority to the rudder and puts the weight on the gear. I do the same on a
soft field landing as lifting the flaps reduces any tendency to nose over.
Gary Algate
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave
Sent: Tuesday, May 30, 2006 2:56 PM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Flaps or no flaps on crosswind lanings in a heavy
V
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Dave" <dave@cfisher.com>
Kurt - Good point on crosswinds and flaps. And dumping flaps once gear
touches kills the extra lift and give better braking power.
Message 24
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|
| Subject: | Re: Series 7 Stick Forces? |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: kurt schrader <smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
If it isn't too hard, try mounting the ELT back by the
battery, but where you can get at it. Mine is
actually behind the battery under the stab with the
antenna in front of the verticle stab.
Those little weight changes can help. Do your W&B
math and see how the weight shift helps to see if it
is worth while. I am not a lead and dead weight
advocate. Even more battery is better than dead
weight.
I can get 135# back there with a gross wt load.
Probably make the 150 limit, if I don't put too much
in the seats. Then again, what would I be carrying
that is 135 pounds and that small? Third pax in an
emergency? Moose meat?
Kurt S.
--- "Rueb, Duane" <ruebd@skymail.csus.edu> wrote:
> Kurt:
>
> My battery is in the back. The ELT is behind the
baggage compartment.
__________________________________________________
Message 25
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|
| Subject: | Re: Gasoline and ethanol |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: kurt schrader <smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
Tim,
Is that slosh applied?
Kurt S.
--- Tim Vader <vadert@telusplanet.net> wrote:
> Group
>
> About 6 months ago I got a lead from another
> group member about an =
> epoxy gas tank sealer. He directed me to Caswell
> Plating. They have a =
> gas tank sealer kit for 32 bucks that is a phenol
> novolac epoxy. I just =
> used it on one of my tanks and it seems to work very
> well. I spoke with =
> their technical department yesterday and they
> assured me that this epoxy =
> is resistant to gasoline and ethanol. They could
> not assure me that it =
> was methanol resistant (gas line antifreeze) though.
> =20
>
> Tim Vader
__________________________________________________
Message 26
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|
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Algate" <algate@attglobal.net>
No problem Cory - it amazes me that these guys have the time "let alone the
intelligence" to bother contaminating lists like ours.
He probably couldn't spell archive!
Regards
Gary
Gary, thanks for stripping the subject title.
(Sheesh, and he didn't even say...
do not archive
Algate wrote:
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Algate" <algate@attglobal.net>
>
>I think we have a problem???
>
>Gary Algate
Message 27
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|
| Subject: | Re: Oil pressure |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: kurt schrader <smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
John,
Because we drive a prop, you need at least 30 psi to
keep from spinning and destroying the front (plane,
flywheel end) main bearing. One pilot spun the
bearing and froze the engine in flight several years
back, though he ran it to super high oil temps first
and then flew it again with out fixing it.
I installed a 30 psi pressure switch with idiot light
(that also drives my Hobbs) and a pressure gauge that
flashes at 30 psi too. Don't want to mess with low
pressure myself. As soon as I see the flashing gauge
on landing rollout, I up the RPM to keep it off.
Somehow the gauge catches it before the switch/light.
Kurt S.
--- John Anderson <janderson412@hotmail.com> wrote:
> Kurt, I have new bearings, new oil pump (EA 82) and
> not a whole lot higher
> than your pressures. Are they so low? Remember on
> the car it only has a
> light that comes on at about 8-10 psi. I've been
> running mineral multi-grade
> to run the engine in but changed to semi-synthetic
> today so will be
> interested to see if there's a change. John
__________________________________________________
Message 28
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|
| Subject: | Re: Gasoline and ethanol |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Tim Vader" <vadert@telusplanet.net>
Dave, Kurt
In the voicemail message I received from the technical department at
crosslink technologies (the makers of this product) the representative uses
the term "proven resistance to a gasoline ethanol blend". As you can see
from the website Dave included it is designed for sloshing.
Tim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave" <dave@cfisher.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 30, 2006 12:59 PM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Gasoline and ethanol
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Dave" <dave@cfisher.com>
>
> Tim,
> Is this ethanol proof?
>
> http://www.caswellplating.com/aids/epoxygas.htm
>
>
> Dave
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Tim Vader" <vadert@telusplanet.net>
> To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, May 30, 2006 10:23 AM
> Subject: Kitfox-List: Gasoline and ethanol
>
>
>> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Tim Vader" <vadert@telusplanet.net>
>>
>> Group
>>
>> About 6 months ago I got a lead from another group member about an =
>> epoxy gas tank sealer. He directed me to Caswell Plating. They have a =
>> gas tank sealer kit for 32 bucks that is a phenol novolac epoxy. I just
>> =
>> used it on one of my tanks and it seems to work very well. I spoke with
>> =
>> their technical department yesterday and they assured me that this epoxy
>> =
>> is resistant to gasoline and ethanol. They could not assure me that it =
>> was methanol resistant (gas line antifreeze) though. =20
>>
>> Tim Vader
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 29
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|
| Subject: | Gasoline and ethanol |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Mike Chaney <mdps_mc@SWOCA.NET>
Do you think this would be acceptable on tanks already in covered wings and
flying?
Mike Chaney
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tim Vader
Sent: Tuesday, May 30, 2006 12:59 PM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Gasoline and ethanol
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Tim Vader" <vadert@telusplanet.net>
Dave, Kurt
In the voicemail message I received from the technical department at
crosslink technologies (the makers of this product) the representative uses
the term "proven resistance to a gasoline ethanol blend". As you can see
from the website Dave included it is designed for sloshing.
Tim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave" <dave@cfisher.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 30, 2006 12:59 PM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Gasoline and ethanol
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Dave" <dave@cfisher.com>
>
> Tim,
> Is this ethanol proof?
>
> http://www.caswellplating.com/aids/epoxygas.htm
>
>
> Dave
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Tim Vader" <vadert@telusplanet.net>
> To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, May 30, 2006 10:23 AM
> Subject: Kitfox-List: Gasoline and ethanol
>
>
>> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Tim Vader" <vadert@telusplanet.net>
>>
>> Group
>>
>> About 6 months ago I got a lead from another group member about an =
>> epoxy gas tank sealer. He directed me to Caswell Plating. They have a =
>> gas tank sealer kit for 32 bucks that is a phenol novolac epoxy. I just
>> =
>> used it on one of my tanks and it seems to work very well. I spoke with
>> =
>> their technical department yesterday and they assured me that this epoxy
>> =
>> is resistant to gasoline and ethanol. They could not assure me that it =
>> was methanol resistant (gas line antifreeze) though. =20
>>
>> Tim Vader
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
############################################################################
####
This message has been scanned for Viruses and cleared by MailMarshal at
SWOCA.
############################################################################
####
Message 30
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|
| Subject: | Re: Oil pressure |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "John Anderson" <janderson412@hotmail.com>
You run a turbo Kurt? Something that comes to mind is the bolt (drilled) on
the turbo oil feed banjo fitting. I have noticed that with the older turbos
the orifis in the bolt was larger, in the later water cooled models it was
reduced in size thus reducing the oil flow and oil pressure loss. By chance
you don't have an old fitting? Long shot perhaps. John
From: kurt schrader <smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Oil pressure
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: kurt schrader
<smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
John,
Because we drive a prop, you need at least 30 psi to
keep from spinning and destroying the front (plane,
flywheel end) main bearing. One pilot spun the
bearing and froze the engine in flight several years
back, though he ran it to super high oil temps first
and then flew it again with out fixing it.
I installed a 30 psi pressure switch with idiot light
(that also drives my Hobbs) and a pressure gauge that
flashes at 30 psi too. Don't want to mess with low
pressure myself. As soon as I see the flashing gauge
on landing rollout, I up the RPM to keep it off.
Somehow the gauge catches it before the switch/light.
Kurt S.
--- John Anderson <janderson412@hotmail.com> wrote:
>Kurt, I have new bearings, new oil pump (EA 82) and
>not a whole lot higher
>than your pressures. Are they so low? Remember on
>the car it only has a
>light that comes on at about 8-10 psi. I've been
>running mineral multi-grade
>to run the engine in but changed to semi-synthetic
>today so will be
>interested to see if there's a change. John
__________________________________________________
_________________________________________________________________
Need more speed? Get Xtra Broadband @
http://jetstream.xtra.co.nz/chm/0,,202853-1000,00.html
Message 31
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|
| Subject: | Re: Pedal torque tube bushings? Question? |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: skyflyte@comcast.net
Good choice Darin. Your previous description of the bearings rotation on a bolt
and nyloc nut were not the right way to go. Any bolt subject to rotation should
be secured with a castle nut and cotter pin, something which would be difficult
to inspect on the rudder peddle bearings.
Mike
-------------- Original message --------------
From: "darinh" <gerns25@netscape.net>
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "darinh"
>
> Well, I reworked the pedals and now they are smooth and rotate on the bushing.
> I used a similar method to what Dave S. described. The controls are smooth but
> the ball bearings would be a great addition. I think I may look into this
> option as I have a bearing supply house close. A nice press fit on the bearings
> with some loctite and those pedals would be like butter! Anyway, thanks for the
> input...It is great to know when I have a question I can have it answered right
> here from someone (a bunch of people in most cases) who has "been there, done
> that". Now on to the next item of business, the rudder and then wings.
>
> Darin
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=37037#37037
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
<html><body>
<DIV>Good choice Darin. Your previous description of the bearings rotation
on a bolt and nyloc nut were not the right way to go. Any bolt subject
to rotation should be secured with a castle nut and cotter pin, something which
would be difficult to inspect on the rudder peddle bearings.</DIV>
<DIV> Mike</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #1010ff 2px
solid">-------------- Original message -------------- <BR>From: "darinh" <gerns25@netscape.net>
<BR><BR>> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "darinh"
<GERNS25@NETSCAPE.NET><BR>> <BR>> Well, I reworked the pedals and
now they are smooth and rotate on the bushing. <BR>> I used a similar method
to what Dave S. described. The controls are smooth but <BR>> the ball bearings
would be a great addition. I think I may look into this <BR>> option
as I have a bearing supply house close. A nice press fit on the bearings <BR>>
with some loctite and those pedals would be like butter! Anyway, thanks
for the <BR>> input...It is great to know when I have a question I can have
it answered right <BR>> here from someone (a bunch of people in most cases)
who has "been there, done <BR>> that". Now on to the next item of business,
the rudder and then wings. <BR>> <BR>> Darin
<BR>&
List C
Message 32
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|
| Subject: | Corn Gas - Auto Fuel |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Randy Daughenbaugh" <rjdaugh@rapidnet.com>
While it is true that energy density in alcohol is not as great in
hydrocarbons, one of the mileage problems with running alcohol in engines
designed for gasoline is that the engine is not taking advantage of the
properties of the alcohol. Alcohol (ethanol or methanol) has much higher
octane rating than petroleum. Thus engines could be designed with much
higher compression ratios and we could get much higher mileage from lighter
engines than what results when we burn ethanol in engines designed for
gasoline.
I don't mean to defend the ethanol fuel industry. I am not sure it is fuel
efficient. It takes a lot of energy to grow corn (fertilizer, tractor fuel,
refining the ethanol, etc) but it is paving the way for ethanol from
cellulose. And they are burning it at Indy next year!
Randy
.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Fox5flyer
Sent: Tuesday, May 30, 2006 8:40 AM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Corn Gas - Auto Fuel
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Fox5flyer" <morid@northland.lib.mi.us>
Great post Dave.
Thanks,
Deke
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave and Diane" <ddsyverson@comcast.net>
Sent: Monday, May 29, 2006 11:33 AM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Corn Gas - Auto Fuel
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Dave and Diane <ddsyverson@comcast.net>
>
> There probably is a lot more to be said about yet about this subject; I
see no
> one has talked much about the energy content, but we have touched a bit on
> the vapor presasure issue.
>
> Corn gas (what we call ethanol in the US - Midwest - probably need to
change
> that to "cane gas" where it is made from sugar cane) has a couple
> characteristics that make it unique in addition to the structural effects
on
> our equipment.
...snip
Message 33
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "John Anderson" <janderson412@hotmail.com>
kurt schrader <smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
I have always had to deal with low pressure at idle
after warmup, even when running 60+ psi on startup. I
need 210F or less to maintain 30+ psi idle. If
cruising around, I can reduce power for descent and it
will be plenty cool for idle power by landing, but
touch and goes are difficult to keep the temps down.
------------------------------------------------
Kurt, I get 85 on startup and stays around 60 on warm up. Sounds like a
relief valve or or similar loss John
_________________________________________________________________
Looking for love? Check out XtraMSN Personals
http://xtramsn.match.com/match/mt.cfm?pg=channel&tcid=200731
Message 34
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|
| Subject: | Pompano Beach, FL Kitfoxers? |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Andrew Matthaey" <spaghettiohead@hotmail.com>
Hello list...
I'm headed down to Pompano Beach, FL at the end of June to finish up my
Multi-Commercial...Figured I'd try my luck at finding a place to bed-down
for a few nights in the area?? References available LoL.
Thanks!
Andrew
KF3
582 C-Box
_________________________________________________________________
Express yourself instantly with MSN Messenger! Download today - it's FREE!
http://messenger.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200471ave/direct/01/
Message 35
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|
| Subject: | Re: Gasoline and ethanol |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Tim Vader" <vadert@telusplanet.net>
Mike
I think it could be done on a wing removed from the plane. It took over
an hour for the mixture to start to set up. In this time I rolled my tank
every which way to ensure that the entire interior surface was covered.
You'd have to do the same with the tank in the wing. Removing the finger
strainer would be difficult with the tanks still in the wing as the 90
degree fitting will contact the bottom capstrip of the No. 1 rib when you
try to remove it. The other fittings should come out with out problem.
Tim Vader
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Chaney" <mdps_mc@swoca.net>
Sent: Tuesday, May 30, 2006 5:34 PM
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Gasoline and ethanol
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Mike Chaney <mdps_mc@SWOCA.NET>
>
> Do you think this would be acceptable on tanks already in covered wings
> and
> flying?
>
> Mike Chaney
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tim Vader
> Sent: Tuesday, May 30, 2006 12:59 PM
> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Gasoline and ethanol
>
>
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Tim Vader" <vadert@telusplanet.net>
>
> Dave, Kurt
>
> In the voicemail message I received from the technical department at
> crosslink technologies (the makers of this product) the representative
> uses
> the term "proven resistance to a gasoline ethanol blend". As you can see
> from the website Dave included it is designed for sloshing.
>
> Tim
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Dave" <dave@cfisher.com>
> To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, May 30, 2006 12:59 PM
> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Gasoline and ethanol
>
>
>> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Dave" <dave@cfisher.com>
>>
>> Tim,
>> Is this ethanol proof?
>>
>> http://www.caswellplating.com/aids/epoxygas.htm
>>
>>
>> Dave
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Tim Vader" <vadert@telusplanet.net>
>> To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
>> Sent: Tuesday, May 30, 2006 10:23 AM
>> Subject: Kitfox-List: Gasoline and ethanol
>>
>>
>>> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Tim Vader" <vadert@telusplanet.net>
>>>
>>> Group
>>>
>>> About 6 months ago I got a lead from another group member about an =
>>> epoxy gas tank sealer. He directed me to Caswell Plating. They have a =
>>> gas tank sealer kit for 32 bucks that is a phenol novolac epoxy. I just
>>> =
>>> used it on one of my tanks and it seems to work very well. I spoke with
>>> =
>>> their technical department yesterday and they assured me that this epoxy
>>> =
>>> is resistant to gasoline and ethanol. They could not assure me that it
>>> =
>>> was methanol resistant (gas line antifreeze) though. =20
>>>
>>> Tim Vader
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> ############################################################################
> ####
> This message has been scanned for Viruses and cleared by MailMarshal at
> SWOCA.
> ############################################################################
> ####
>
>
>
Message 36
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|
| Subject: | West System Epoxy answer |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no>
Friends, here is the answer from West System Epoxy:
------------------------------------------------------------------------
----
Methyl tertiary butyle ether, a gasoline additive and ethanol will
disolve cured WEST SYSTEM epoxy. We had great success builting fuel
tanks with WEST SYSTEM until these were introduced. We are
investigating som ethanol-resistant coatings, but the testing is still
being conducted.
Its a real problem as not only does the ethanol damage composite tanks
but on older engines damages hoses, gaskets and can built up a varnish
that can bind compoents resulting in bent push rods etc.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
So, I guess this closes the discussion but ... makes us even more
worried, doesn't it?
Cheers,
Michel
Message 37
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|
| Subject: | Re: Gasoline and ethanol |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Dave G." <occom@ns.sympatico.ca>
Here's an interesting article from 2001. I wonder what became of this
intitiative.
http://www.bbibiofuels.com/news/view.cgi?article=355
Message 38
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|
| Subject: | Re: Gasoline and ethanol |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: kurt schrader <smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
Home page has a lot of links there to look thru.
Didn't see any additional aviation news right off
though.
Kurt S.
Do not archive
--- "Dave G." <occom@ns.sympatico.ca> wrote:
> Here's an interesting article from 2001. I wonder
> what became of this intitiative.
>
> http://www.bbibiofuels.com/news/view.cgi?article=355
__________________________________________________
Message 39
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|
| Subject: | Re: West System Epoxy answer |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Don Smythe" <dosmythe@cox.net>
Michel,
I guess you ruined my day. Ethanol is coming to my area real fast. I have
heard that the super premium fuel will not contain Ethanol?? My West coated
tanks might be toast. Thank you Government, I'm so upset I might just
refuse my next retirement check from them suckers.
Don Smythe
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michel Verheughe" <michel@online.no>
Sent: Tuesday, May 30, 2006 5:30 PM
Subject: Kitfox-List: West System Epoxy answer
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no>
>
> Friends, here is the answer from West System Epoxy:
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> ----
> Methyl tertiary butyle ether, a gasoline additive and ethanol will
> disolve cured WEST SYSTEM epoxy. We had great success builting fuel
> tanks with WEST SYSTEM until these were introduced. We are
> investigating som ethanol-resistant coatings, but the testing is still
> being conducted.
>
> Its a real problem as not only does the ethanol damage composite tanks
> but on older engines damages hoses, gaskets and can built up a varnish
> that can bind compoents resulting in bent push rods etc.
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> -----
>
> So, I guess this closes the discussion but ... makes us even more
> worried, doesn't it?
>
> Cheers,
> Michel
>
>
>
Message 40
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|
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: kurt schrader <smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
I was told my relief vavle was for 63 psi, but I have
seen it high when cold like you have. I agree with
you and Rick that this may be relieving itself
irregularily and at lower pressure. If I can correct
it without having to change the pump, it will
certainly cost less.
Still considering an electric oil pump in parallel for
start and shutdown. Probably can put it in for 2-3
lbs. It would be a backup, a pre-oiler, and something
to cool the oil running thru the turbo on shutdown. I
have the web site at home that someone on the list
provided. Sorry, I forgot who. :-(
I don't know which turbo oil fitting I have - small or
large.
Kurt S.
--- John Anderson <janderson412@hotmail.com> wrote:
> Kurt, I get 85 on startup and stays around 60 on
> warm up. Sounds like a relief valve or or similar
> loss John
__________________________________________________
Message 41
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| Subject: | Corn Gas - Auto Fuel |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: kurt schrader <smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
Randy,
I think I saw recently where someone is developing an
alcohol designed engine. Higher compression and more
turbo will make it get about the same MPG as gas.
Kurt S.
--- Randy Daughenbaugh <rjdaugh@rapidnet.com> wrote:
> While it is true that energy density in alcohol is
> not as great in
> hydrocarbons, one of the mileage problems with
> running alcohol in engines
> designed for gasoline is that the engine is not
> taking advantage of the
> properties of the alcohol. Alcohol (ethanol or
> methanol) has much higher
> octane rating than petroleum. Thus engines could be
> designed with much
> higher compression ratios and we could get much
> higher mileage from lighter
> engines than what results when we burn ethanol in
> engines designed for
> gasoline.
>
> I don't mean to defend the ethanol fuel industry. I
> am not sure it is fuel
> efficient. It takes a lot of energy to grow corn
> (fertilizer, tractor fuel,
> refining the ethanol, etc) but it is paving the way
> for ethanol from
> cellulose. And they are burning it at Indy next
> year!
>
> Randy
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Message 42
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "wingsdown" <wingsdown@comcast.net>
Not sure about the numbers on the synthetic, could be 400 plus, just
know its there but still better in my opinion that dinosaurs drippings.
Synthetics have the same problem with water but are better able to cope.
Oil temp above 190 for a good hour make it a non-issue. If oil does not
get hot enough long enough excess moisture is allowed to accumulate. If
you see any milky crap on your dip stick she is trying to tell you
something. Quality air oil separators are a good investment, but never
allow the crap it saves to go back to the pan, again just my opinion.
Optimum situation would be an oil recirculation pump for turbo cool
down, not practical because of the pressure type seals in our turbos,
but I did install a water circulation pump to help shed heat after shut
down, Again unless you come in hot, take the cable and have you hangar
next to the runway still should not be a serious issue.
The relief/bypass valve trys to keep a constant oil pressure at varying
engine RPMs by letting oil go back to the pan. If it were not there and
the pressure regulator spring and ball failed/stuck a bearing would or
could be floated. Or should the filter become cogged it keeps the oil
system from exploding. I believe I remember the Subaru oil pump having
this accomplished with one a single spring and valve. I have an extra
pump somewhere, now makes me want to open it back up. In any event, too
much pressure can float the bearing which makes it spin and as you can
imagine, bad thing. Also to little and you get metal to metal also bad
thing. To get extra volume you need to either increase the pressure or
the volume or both of the pump. If I remember correctly about 10 psi
for ever 1,000 rpms is a rule of thumb. So 50-60 PSI on the Subaru
sounds right. Having the oil cooler efficient is a whole different ball
game as you know. If you can find a way to pull the air through the
proper size cooler I think those pressures can be easily maintained.
You are right about the touch and goes, without an electric fan or
superior oil cooler set up the turbo just generates to many BTUs for
that activity.
Let us know how it progresses.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of kurt
schrader
Sent: Tuesday, May 30, 2006 11:58 AM
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Subaru EA81 oil
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: kurt schrader
--> <smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
OK Rick,
Lance (remember him?) said to try aviation oil and not synthetic, so I
bought it, but didn't try it yet.
Guess I'll sell the case of 100 wt then and get some semi-synthetic
first, and full synthetic later to compare.
Do I remember correctly, synthetics don't have the
water problem that regular oil does? Sometimes I
still run too cool. Haven't installed the thermostat
yet.
The synthetic should be better for the turbo, if it
doesn't exceed 360F there on shutdown. Wondering
about that since my turbo is normally 450F measured
after shutdown.
If I hit 360F otherwise, I've got more problems.....
Don't remember exceeding 250F so far. 235F max in
climb was more normal before I improved the airflow.
I had a ground run a while back that I shut down from
when the oil pressure was all over the place. I
thought indicator problem or that relief valve. Now I
am leaning to the valve. Couldn't find a wiring
problem and it ran fine in flight, but at lower
pressure than before at the same temps.
Does that relief valve just bypass the filter, or
return to the pan reducing oil flow where it is
needed?
I have always had to deal with low pressure at idle
after warmup, even when running 60+ psi on startup. I
need 210F or less to maintain 30+ psi idle. If
cruising around, I can reduce power for descent and it
will be plenty cool for idle power by landing, but
touch and goes are difficult to keep the temps down.
Ill try an oil change first and see what happens.
Kurt S. S-5 NIS turbo
__________________________________________________
Message 43
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| Subject: | Re: West System Epoxy answer |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "darinh" <gerns25@netscape.net>
Anyone looked into the cost to have an aluminum tank fabricated? I don't know
the feasability of this but it done in many other aircraft.
Darin
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=37529#37529
Message 44
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| Subject: | Re: West System Epoxy answer |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "wingsdown" <wingsdown@comcast.net>
There has been discussion before. I believe SS stated wing flex as an
issue. I am sure that could be over come, maybe not cheap, but better
yet why not a fuel bladder for safety sake?
Rick
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of darinh
Sent: Tuesday, May 30, 2006 4:23 PM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: West System Epoxy answer
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "darinh" <gerns25@netscape.net>
Anyone looked into the cost to have an aluminum tank fabricated? I
don't know the feasability of this but it done in many other aircraft.
Darin
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=37529#37529
Message 45
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| Subject: | Gasoline and ethanol |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Ted Palamarek" <temco@telusplanet.net>
Tim
In sloshing your tanks with the Caswell epoxy systems ---- how did you
handle the Kreem that is already sloshed in the tanks by Skystar???
Ted Palamarek
Edmonton, Ab
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Gasoline and ethanol
Mike
I think it could be done on a wing removed from the plane. It took over
an hour for the mixture to start to set up. In this time I rolled my tank
every which way to ensure that the entire interior surface was covered.
You'd have to do the same with the tank in the wing. Removing the finger
strainer would be difficult with the tanks still in the wing as the 90
degree fitting will contact the bottom capstrip of the No. 1 rib when you
try to remove it. The other fittings should come out with out problem.
Tim Vader
Message 46
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| Subject: | Re: Gasoline and ethanol |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Tim Vader" <vadert@telusplanet.net>
Ted
I used 3 one litre cans of acetone one after the other with lots of
sloshing. The acetone / Kreem reaction produces gases so vent the tank
regularly or it will blow the plugs out of the fitting holes. By the time I
used the third can it was more or less of a rinse. The tank including the
baffles appeared devoid of the Kreem. I dried out the tank with the exhaust
from my vacuum cleaner, waited a day and poured in the sealant. The only
problem I had was that the small sump below where the finger strainer sits
was built up a little bit and the finger strainer would not fit back in. I
used my dremel to sand down a spot for the strainer. I think this can be
avoided next time by raising that corner of the tank during the hardening
process.
Tim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ted Palamarek" <temco@telusplanet.net>
Sent: Tuesday, May 30, 2006 5:58 PM
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Gasoline and ethanol
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Ted Palamarek"
> <temco@telusplanet.net>
>
> Tim
>
> In sloshing your tanks with the Caswell epoxy systems ---- how did you
> handle the Kreem that is already sloshed in the tanks by Skystar???
>
> Ted Palamarek
> Edmonton, Ab
>
>
> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Gasoline and ethanol
>
>
> Mike
> I think it could be done on a wing removed from the plane. It took
> over
>
> an hour for the mixture to start to set up. In this time I rolled my tank
> every which way to ensure that the entire interior surface was covered.
> You'd have to do the same with the tank in the wing. Removing the finger
> strainer would be difficult with the tanks still in the wing as the 90
> degree fitting will contact the bottom capstrip of the No. 1 rib when you
> try to remove it. The other fittings should come out with out problem.
>
> Tim Vader
>
>
>
Message 47
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Malcolmbru@aol.com
I need a larger radiator to replace the one from my 532 set up I know the
size of the one I got
my radiator size is
4 in hi
1 7/8 thick
18 in of fins
8 lines + top and bottom plate
7/16 in apart on center 3/32 thick (aprox)
hoses in and out on top end 90% 1in dia.
tank ends are 1in
the bolts to hold it on the plane are 20 in apart 1 5/16 oc
3/4 in off set down
I hope this helps call (989) 631-9506 H
(989)233-5377 C Malcolm Michigan
Message 48
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Dee Young" <henrysfork1@msn.com>
I installed the aluminum wing tanks in my Model II. They have served =
well.
Dee Young
Model II
Do not archive
Message 49
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| Subject: | kitfox iv builders manual |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Mark Thompson" <kr2@earthlink.net>
Hi All,I am in need of a owners/builders manual for my model iv classic and hoping
that I might be able to talk someone into making a copy for me from your manual?I
will pay any reasonable amount $
Thanks in advance........
Sincerely Mark Thomson....N61AC
Mark Thompson
kr2@earthlink.net
EarthLink Revolves Around You.
Message 50
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Mark Thompson" <kr2@earthlink.net>
Hi all, I have a kitfox iv and am ready for my first flight in about a week or
two,after many days of upgrades and changes that I made I am left with a simple
question .should I flush my fuel tanks since the plane has been sitting since
last august with little to no fuel in it and if so ,is there a product out that
will do the job or should I just run some new avgas through it and not worry.
Thanks for any advice
Mark Thompson
kr2@earthlink.net
EarthLink Revolves Around You.
Message 51
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| Subject: | Nose Wheel Shimmy |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "jdmcbean" <jdmcbean@cableone.net>
Roger,
The most common issue with the nose wheel shimmy is the strut axle nut.. it
needs to be tight enough that it requires about 12-14 lbs of break away
pressure if one was to grab the rear of the tire... You can adjust it by
using a fish scale and hook it to the aft of the tire. It does not need to
maintain that pressure but it should be close to that to get the tire to
start turning...
Hope that helps...
Fly Safe !!
John & Debra McBean
www.sportplanellc.com
"The Sky is not the Limit... It's a Playground"
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Roger McConnell
Sent: Monday, May 29, 2006 10:13 AM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Nose Wheel Shimmy
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Roger McConnell" <rdmac@swbell.net>
I got a question for you guy or gals that fly unconventional gear Kitfoxs.
Every sense installing the faring on the nose wheel, I have had a
reoccurring shimmy.
I have tightened the pivot nut on the strut and have also added some
pressure to the tire. I thought I had it fixed but after going out and
flying this morning, before the wind got up, it did it again when I landed.
Is there something I haven't tried or I'm doing wrong.
Roger Mac
S7/912s
--
--
Message 52
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| Subject: | kitfox iv owners manual |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Mark Thompson" <kr2@earthlink.net>
Hi Guys ,I am trying to find a builders/owners manual for my Classic iv,I was hoping
that someone might be able to copy their manual for me.
I can pay a reasonable fee,I am so close to getting my bird airborne,But I dont
have the owners manual to do a final check on my systems,anyways ...Thanks for
any help in this matter.
Sincerely Mark Thomson.......N61AC
Mark Thompson
kr2@earthlink.net
EarthLink Revolves Around You.
Message 53
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| Subject: | Re: West System Epoxy answer |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "ron schick" <roncarolnikko@hotmail.com>
There was a fellow in Klammath falls Oregon who made Poly tanks for the
undercambered wings. It was a limited run and may be gone now. No one was
interested at the time. Bet they would sell now. I may still have his
number. Ron NB Ore
>From: "wingsdown" <wingsdown@comcast.net>
>To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Re: West System Epoxy answer
>Date: Tue, 30 May 2006 16:33:31 -0700
>
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "wingsdown" <wingsdown@comcast.net>
>
>There has been discussion before. I believe SS stated wing flex as an
>issue. I am sure that could be over come, maybe not cheap, but better
>yet why not a fuel bladder for safety sake?
>
>Rick
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of darinh
>Sent: Tuesday, May 30, 2006 4:23 PM
>To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: West System Epoxy answer
>
>
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "darinh" <gerns25@netscape.net>
>
>Anyone looked into the cost to have an aluminum tank fabricated? I
>don't know the feasability of this but it done in many other aircraft.
>
>Darin
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=37529#37529
>
>
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