Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:35 AM - Re: Nose Wheel Shimmy (Dan Billingsley)
2. 05:42 AM - Re: Re: West System Epoxy answer (Don Smythe)
3. 05:44 AM - Re: Nose Wheel Shimmy (Don Smythe)
4. 07:16 AM - Re: Cracked Eng Mount (James Shumaker)
5. 07:18 AM - Re: Re: West System Epoxy answer (James Shumaker)
6. 07:57 AM - Replacement flaperon M2 (Dill Family)
7. 11:15 AM - Radiator Flaps (Lowell Fitt)
8. 12:18 PM - Re: Re: West System Epoxy answer (Guy Buchanan)
9. 12:18 PM - Re: Nose Wheel Shimmy (Guy Buchanan)
10. 01:36 PM - Re: Re: West System Epoxy answer (Don Smythe)
11. 02:35 PM - Re: Re: West System Epoxy answer (ron schick)
12. 04:55 PM - List Enclosure Support (Matt Dralle)
13. 05:41 PM - Re: List Enclosure Support (Don Pearsall)
14. 05:55 PM - Re: List Enclosure Support (wingsdown)
15. 09:36 PM - Re: List Enclosure Support (John Anderson)
16. 10:49 PM - Re: List Enclosure Support (Guy Buchanan)
17. 10:51 PM - Specs (John Anderson)
18. 11:01 PM - Re: Re: Wing tanks - Was West System Epoxy answer (kurt schrader)
19. 11:50 PM - Re: Specs (kurt schrader)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Nose Wheel Shimmy |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Dan Billingsley <dan@azshowersolutions.com>
Guy,
Ifin da wheel is sposed ta be in da back...why da heck duz it keep wantin ta
moove roun to da frunt?
Dan Billingsley
Mesa
Kitfox IV , 912s, TriGear
Guy Buchanan <bnn@nethere.com> wrote:
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Guy Buchanan
At 09:13 AM 5/29/2006, you wrote:
>Every sense installing the faring on the nose wheel, I have had a
>reoccurring shimmy.
Wall occors its shimmyin'. Yur tryin' t fly the plane bakwards, dummy! The
wheals sposed to be in da back!
(Sorry, couldn't resist.)
Guy Buchanan
K-IV 1200 / 582 / 99.9% done, thanks mostly to Bob Ducar.
Do not archive
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: West System Epoxy answer |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Don Smythe" <dosmythe@cox.net>
Guy,
I just finished replacing the 2" tapes on my wing tops. It wasn't fun and
never turns our as good as the first cover job. Replacing a tank could only
be worse. I would like to see a bladder replacement come on the market. We
have an old bladder in the hanger that came out of the Rich man's twin
Comanche that's 35 years old (finally leaked). New replacement was around
$700. Maybe we could have some made for way less than Piper's cost. This
might be a good project for Kitfox LLC to take on in their spare time.
Ha....
Don Smythe
> I vote:
>
> 1) properly designed and fabricated aluminum tanks.
>
> 2) Properly designed and fabricated vinyl-ester tanks.
>
>
> Guy Buchanan
> K-IV 1200 / 582 / 99.9% done, thanks mostly to Bob Ducar.
>
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Nose Wheel Shimmy |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Don Smythe" <dosmythe@cox.net>
Good come back. Couldn't help but laugh so early in the morning.
Don Smythe
Do Not Archive
----- Original Message -----
> Guy,
> Ifin da wheel is sposed ta be in da back...why da heck duz it keep wantin
> ta moove roun to da frunt?
> Dan Billingsley
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Cracked Eng Mount |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: James Shumaker <jimshumaker@sbcglobal.net>
The cracks on my mounts seem to be in the same places.
Jim Shumaker
gjglh@cebridge.net wrote:
--> Kitfox-List message posted by:
I had to pull my engine because of a cracked motor mount. Facing the engine the
top
left verticle downward tube broke of 3/4" above rubber mounts and the right side
of
the cross tube for the upper mounts had a crack 1/2" in. I put an outer tube layer
on each tube to give added strength.
Gary
M-IV Speedster
On Fri Jun 2 1:48 , James Shumaker sent:
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: James Shumaker jimshumaker@sbcglobal.net>
>
>I'll try to get pictures up this weekend also.
>
> My guess is that it is the shaking of the engine. There is not any distortion
associated with the cracks on my engine and they are not cracked all the way
around.
>
> Jim Shumaker
>
>Paul ppeerenbo@charter.net> wrote:
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Paul"
>
>
>I will take a picture this weekend. I have had a carb come off 200 plus hrs
>ago, balancing carbs, new carb sockets, and spring kit seams to have taken
>care of that. 100 plus hrs ago I did the mod to stiffen the eng mounts
>(shorten the bushings). Its more than likely that this has been cracked for
>a wile. Its appears to emanate from the weld and I would say it went aft
>first and could go unnoticed easily. I am an airline mechanic for 27 years,
>including time as a level II NDT, PT, UT, ET & PM. If I had just wiped the
>stain and not go further with power coat removal, it would go till the next
>annual inspection, this is a very fine tight crack. I do not have a slipper
>clutch, and the 912 does shake if you don't get a clean start. The start
>procedure that was on this list of using choke with the ignition off and let
>sit, then set the throttle seams to work better than the primer system. ( I
>took that off) I have never had exhaust or any real fretting problems, when
>running the 912 is awsom powerplant.
>
>Paul N102DG
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Jimmie Blackwell"
>To:
>Sent: Thursday, June 01, 2006 10:20 AM
>Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Cracked Eng Mount
>
>
>> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Jimmie Blackwell
>>
>>
>> This the third engine mount problem, (including mine), with the 912 UL in
>> the last two weeks. I wanted to ask Jim and Paul to post a picture of
>> their cracked mounts on Sportflight and let's try to determine if there is
>> are some common denominators such as torque or total hours on the mount
>> when it fails. Looks like Paul and I had about the same amount of hours
>> when the failure occurred.
>>
>> My rubber engine mount pads had been changed within 15 hours of when my
>> engine mount broke. When changing the rubber pads I torgued all the
>> hardware according to the latest Model IV building manual. I can't help
>> but wonder if the torque settings may be wrong or if there was a batch of
>> bad engine mounts produced at some point. Hopefully, some of you with
>> more experience and knowledge can help us figure out what is causing the
>> engine mount failures before someone hurts their Kitfox or worse,
>> themselves.
>>
>> Jimmie
>> James Shumaker wrote:
>> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: James Shumaker
>>
>> Paul
>>
>> I just found a crack on my model III 912ul. It was on the top of the ring
>> tube of the dynafocal mount. When I pulled the engine, one of the short
>> tubes was also cracked. I have not even done a complete inspection yet.
>> Will keep you informed as to what I find.
>>
>> Even with two cracked tubes on the mounts the engine felt tight and secure
>> on the frame.
>>
>> Jim Shumaker
>>
>> Paul
>> wrote:
>> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Paul"
>>
>>
>>
>> I have a Model IV with a 912UL 360TT. I found a eng mount crack on the
>> short
>> tube that connects the top mounts, left side. The crack looked like a
>> stain
>> on the powered coated mount that wiped off. I cleaned the paint off and
>> the
>> tube is cracked half way around. Can any one give me information on the
>> mount? Wall thickness, any weld repair advice is welcome.
>>
>> Paul N102DG
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: West System Epoxy answer |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: James Shumaker <jimshumaker@sbcglobal.net>
Don,
I was at an EAA fly-in where a tank bladder dealer was showing. The cost was
about as for the Comanche or less and I may need to use that approach for my
Aluminum tank that needs repair.
Will keep you posted.
Jim Shumaker
Don Smythe <dosmythe@cox.net> wrote:
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Don Smythe"
Guy,
I just finished replacing the 2" tapes on my wing tops. It wasn't fun and
never turns our as good as the first cover job. Replacing a tank could only
be worse. I would like to see a bladder replacement come on the market. We
have an old bladder in the hanger that came out of the Rich man's twin
Comanche that's 35 years old (finally leaked). New replacement was around
$700. Maybe we could have some made for way less than Piper's cost. This
might be a good project for Kitfox LLC to take on in their spare time.
Ha....
Don Smythe
> I vote:
>
> 1) properly designed and fabricated aluminum tanks.
>
> 2) Properly designed and fabricated vinyl-ester tanks.
>
>
> Guy Buchanan
> K-IV 1200 / 582 / 99.9% done, thanks mostly to Bob Ducar.
>
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Replacement flaperon M2 |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Dill Family" <Dillfamily@sbcglobal.net>
Who are the guys that are parting out a Model 2? I must decide if I am =
going to re-skin or purchase a replacement right flaperon.
Jeffrey R. Dill
(860) 295-8372 home
(860) 985-4315 cell
Message 7
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt@sbcglobal.net>
The discussion last winter about heaters and coolant temperatures resulted
in my installing radiator flaps on my Model IV. I flew this morning for an
hour and tried the flaps out in flight. I have the Skystar provided
Speedster radiator shroud.
First of all, I can't keep them closed in flight. Air pressure forces them
open - a nice feature for the dreaded failure mode. I definitely have time
to figure out a fix on this one.
Secondly there is a definite pitch down effect when I close the flaps and I
will lose about 2 mph, 107 down to 105 mph at constant RPMs with them
closed. Interesting.
For you guys with heating problems, this might suggest some sort of
engineered housing for the radiator. It is hard to believe effectively
closing air flow through the shroud would have that effect.
Lowell
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: West System Epoxy answer |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Guy Buchanan <bnn@nethere.com>
At 05:41 AM 6/3/2006, you wrote:
>I would like to see a bladder replacement come on the market.
I don't know how you could do it with the baffles in the fiberglass tank. I
suppose you could rip out the baffles, but my arms just aren't long or
skinny enough to get in an sand out the rough edges. ;-)
Guy Buchanan
K-IV 1200 / 582 / 99.9% done, thanks mostly to Bob Ducar.
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Nose Wheel Shimmy |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Guy Buchanan <bnn@nethere.com>
At 05:31 AM 6/3/2006, you wrote:
>Guy,
> Ifin da wheel is sposed ta be in da back...why da heck duz it keep
> wantin ta moove roun to da frunt?
> Dan Billingsley
> Mesa
> Kitfox IV , 912s, TriGear
HAHAHAHAHA! Thanks.
(Tee hee.)
Guy Buchanan
K-IV 1200 / 582 / 99.9% done, thanks mostly to Bob Ducar.
Do not archive
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: West System Epoxy answer |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Don Smythe" <dosmythe@cox.net>
Guy,
Like I said the other day, you would probably have to cut an access hole
in the tops of the tanks in order to be able to reach all the insides. The
hole might have to be 12 inches square or whatever it takes to reach all the
insides. Could possibly be done. After that, just fabricate an aluminum
plate for the hole and attach with flush screws. This is just a thought in
case many of us might have to make drastic changes due to ethanol or
whatever. I personally would rather consider this type approach than doing
a blanket tank change out.
Don Smythe
----- Original Message -----
From: "Guy Buchanan" <bnn@nethere.com>
Sent: Saturday, June 03, 2006 10:45 AM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Re: West System Epoxy answer
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Guy Buchanan <bnn@nethere.com>
>
> At 05:41 AM 6/3/2006, you wrote:
>>I would like to see a bladder replacement come on the market.
>
> I don't know how you could do it with the baffles in the fiberglass tank.
> I
> suppose you could rip out the baffles, but my arms just aren't long or
> skinny enough to get in an sand out the rough edges. ;-)
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: West System Epoxy answer |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "ron schick" <roncarolnikko@hotmail.com>
I am in favor of Brads' fuse tank only using our old tanks for a
compartment. I could put a smaller tank inside of mine which would still
outlast my bladder. The cg would not be a problem then. Could be prefabbed
and dropped in Dons' hole with a flange built on top to rivett over the hole
and be done quickly. Ron NB Ore
>From: "Don Smythe" <dosmythe@cox.net>
>To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Re: West System Epoxy answer
>Date: Sat, 3 Jun 2006 16:33:31 -0400
>
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Don Smythe" <dosmythe@cox.net>
>
>Guy,
> Like I said the other day, you would probably have to cut an access
>hole
>in the tops of the tanks in order to be able to reach all the insides. The
>hole might have to be 12 inches square or whatever it takes to reach all
>the
>insides. Could possibly be done. After that, just fabricate an aluminum
>plate for the hole and attach with flush screws. This is just a thought in
>case many of us might have to make drastic changes due to ethanol or
>whatever. I personally would rather consider this type approach than doing
>a blanket tank change out.
>
>Don Smythe
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Guy Buchanan" <bnn@nethere.com>
>To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
>Sent: Saturday, June 03, 2006 10:45 AM
>Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Re: West System Epoxy answer
>
>
> > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Guy Buchanan <bnn@nethere.com>
> >
> > At 05:41 AM 6/3/2006, you wrote:
> >>I would like to see a bladder replacement come on the market.
> >
> > I don't know how you could do it with the baffles in the fiberglass
>tank.
> > I
> > suppose you could rip out the baffles, but my arms just aren't long or
> > skinny enough to get in an sand out the rough edges. ;-)
> >
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | List Enclosure Support |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Matt Dralle <dralle@matronics.com>
Dear Listers,
Over the years, I have resisted the urge to enable enclosure support on the Matronics
Lists for a number of reasons relating to performance, capacity, capability,
and security. However, its now 2006 and most everyone using email these
days is on an email client that, at some level, supports the viewing and handling
of enclosures. I get a fair amount of email each month from people on the
various Lists asking why their posts of this or that picture didn't go through.
Back quite a while ago by popular request, I enabled enclosure support for a few
Lists such as the RV10-List, Kolb-List, and the Tailwind-List. Contrary to
my fears, there really hasn't been any significant issues on these Lists relating
to the advent of enclosure support and for the most part, members have policed
themselves well with respect to the size of things they have posted.
Having enclosures enabled on some Lists and not others has given me a fair amount
of headaches with respect to filtering messages and content since the formats
are often quite different between a typical MIME encoded message and a generic
plain-text message. The spammers are getting more cleaver all the time and
are constantly trying to thwart my best efforts at keeping them from posting
to the Lists.
So, for these reasons, I've have decided to go ahead and enable limited enclosure
posting on all of the email Lists at Matronics. This will not only increase
the utility of the Lists, but will afford me a better opportunity to filter
out the chaff.
Here are some of the features and limits of enclosures on the Matronics Lists:
1) Enclosures will only be posted to the Real Time version of the
Lists.
2) Enclosures will NOT be included in the Daily Digest version of
the Lists.
3) Enclosures WILL BE forwarded on to the BBS Forum Web site.
4) Enclosures will NOT be appended to the Archives.
5) Enclosures will NOT be available in the List Browse feature.
6) Only the following file types and extensions will be allowed:
jpg, bmp, gif, txt, xls, pdf, and doc
All other enclosures types will be rejected and email returned to
sender. The enclosure types listed above are relatively safe from
a virus standpoint and don't pose a particularly large security risk.
7) !! All incoming enclosures will be scanned for viruses prior to posting
to the List. This is done in real time and will not slow down
the process of posting the message !!
Here are some rules for posting enclosures. Failure to abide by these rules could
result in the removal of a subscriber's email address from the Lists.
1) Pay attention to what you are posting!! Make sure that the files
you are enclosing aren't HUGE (greater that 1MB). Remember that there
are still people checking they're email via dial up modem. If you post
30MB worth of pictures, you are placing an unnecessary burden on these
folks and the rest of us, for that matter.
2) SCALE YOUR PICTURES DOWN!!! I don't want to see huge 3000 x 2000
pictures getting posted that are 3 or 4MB each. This is just
unacceptable. Use a program such as Photoshop to scale the picture
down to something on the order of 800 x 600 and try to keep the
file size to less-than 200KB, preferably much less.
Microsoft has a really awesome utility available for free that allows
you to Right-Click on a picture in Explorer and automatically
scale it down and resave it. This is a great utility - get it, use it!
http://www.microsoft.com/windowsxp/downloads/powertoys/xppowertoys.mspx
Look for the link "Image Resizer"
3) !! This would seem to go without saying, but I'll say it anyway. Do not
post anything that would be considered offensive by your grandmother.
And you know what I'm saying; I don't want to see anything even
questionable. !!
4) REMEMBER THIS: If you post a 1MB enclosure to a List with 1000 members
subscribed, your 1MB enclosure must be resent 1000 times amounting
to 1MB X 1000 = 1 Gigabyte of network traffic!! BE CAREFUL and BE COURTEOUS!
I hope everyone will enjoy the added functionality of enclosures. Please police
yourself and use good judgement when posting messages with enclosures using
the guidelines I've outlined above.
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
Message 13
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| Subject: | List Enclosure Support |
Very good, Matt! Thank you for doing this. It will make the list a lot more
useful and multi-media.
I hope everyone remembers this when it comes time to contribute to the
Matronics yearly fund raiser.
I am attaching a small pic to this message, as well as an in-line embedded
pic to test if it works
Don Pearsall
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com [
<mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com>
mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt Dralle
Sent: Saturday, June 03, 2006 4:53 PM
Subject: Kitfox-List: List Enclosure Support
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Matt Dralle <dralle@matronics.com>
Dear Listers,
Over the years, I have resisted the urge to enable enclosure support on the
Matronics Lists for a number of reasons relating to performance, capacity,
capability, and security. However, its now 2006 and most everyone using
email these days is on an email client that, at some level, supports the
viewing and handling of enclosures. I get a fair amount of email each month
from people on the various Lists asking why their posts of this or that
picture didn't go through.
Back quite a while ago by popular request, I enabled enclosure support for a
few Lists such as the RV10-List, Kolb-List, and the Tailwind-List. Contrary
to my fears, there really hasn't been any significant issues on these Lists
relating to the advent of enclosure support and for the most part, members
have policed themselves well with respect to the size of things they have
posted.
Having enclosures enabled on some Lists and not others has given me a fair
amount of headaches with respect to filtering messages and content since the
formats are often quite different between a typical MIME encoded message and
a generic plain-text message. The spammers are getting more cleaver all the
time and are constantly trying to thwart my best efforts at keeping them
from posting to the Lists.
So, for these reasons, I've have decided to go ahead and enable limited
enclosure posting on all of the email Lists at Matronics. This will not
only increase the utility of the Lists, but will afford me a better
opportunity to filter out the chaff.
Here are some of the features and limits of enclosures on the Matronics
Lists:
1) Enclosures will only be posted to the Real Time version of the
Lists.
2) Enclosures will NOT be included in the Daily Digest version of
the Lists.
3) Enclosures WILL BE forwarded on to the BBS Forum Web site.
4) Enclosures will NOT be appended to the Archives.
5) Enclosures will NOT be available in the List Browse feature.
6) Only the following file types and extensions will be allowed:
jpg, bmp, gif, txt, xls, pdf, and doc
All other enclosures types will be rejected and email returned to
sender. The enclosure types listed above are relatively safe from
a virus standpoint and don't pose a particularly large security
risk.
7) !! All incoming enclosures will be scanned for viruses prior to
posting
to the List. This is done in real time and will not slow down
the process of posting the message !!
Here are some rules for posting enclosures. Failure to abide by these rules
could result in the removal of a subscriber's email address from the Lists.
1) Pay attention to what you are posting!! Make sure that the files
you are enclosing aren't HUGE (greater that 1MB). Remember that
there
are still people checking they're email via dial up modem. If you
post
30MB worth of pictures, you are placing an unnecessary burden on
these
folks and the rest of us, for that matter.
2) SCALE YOUR PICTURES DOWN!!! I don't want to see huge 3000 x 2000
pictures getting posted that are 3 or 4MB each. This is just
unacceptable. Use a program such as Photoshop to scale the picture
down to something on the order of 800 x 600 and try to keep the
file size to less-than 200KB, preferably much less.
Microsoft has a really awesome utility available for free that
allows
you to Right-Click on a picture in Explorer and automatically
scale it down and resave it. This is a great utility - get it, use
it!
<http://www.microsoft.com/windowsxp/downloads/powertoys/xppowertoys.mspx>
http://www.microsoft.com/windowsxp/downloads/powertoys/xppowertoys.mspx
Look for the link "Image Resizer"
3) !! This would seem to go without saying, but I'll say it anyway. Do
not
post anything that would be considered offensive by your
grandmother.
And you know what I'm saying; I don't want to see anything even
questionable. !!
4) REMEMBER THIS: If you post a 1MB enclosure to a List with 1000
members
subscribed, your 1MB enclosure must be resent 1000 times amounting
to 1MB X 1000 = 1 Gigabyte of network traffic!! BE CAREFUL and BE
COURTEOUS!
I hope everyone will enjoy the added functionality of enclosures. Please
police yourself and use good judgement when posting messages with enclosures
using the guidelines I've outlined above.
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Message 14
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| Subject: | List Enclosure Support |
Thanks. This is great; a picture can be worth more than a thousand
words, especially mine. Looking forward to some real colorful show and
tells. Remember though long term uploads are very helpful down the road.
Rick
Message 15
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| Subject: | List Enclosure Support |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "John Anderson" <janderson412@hotmail.com>
Kurt and others, I increased the pitch on my Warpdrive 72" 3 blade prop 1
degree and t/o, climb seem about the same but airpeed rose at 4000rpm from
90 to 94ish. Pulling just under one more inch of boost (1.5 psi) at the same
RPM. How does that compare to yours. John A.
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| Subject: | Re: List Enclosure Support |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Guy Buchanan <bnn@nethere.com>
Matt,
I admire your courage.
Guy Buchanan
K-IV 1200 / 582 / 99.9% done, thanks mostly to Bob Ducar.
Do not archive
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| Subject: | Re: Wing tanks - Was West System Epoxy answer |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: kurt schrader <smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
One thing to remember when using bladders is that all
corners, high and low, of a bladder must be fastened.
If not, the bladder can move in its space whenever the
tank is not full, and this will cause problems. Fuel,
or water can be trapped in bottom folds. The tank can
divide itself into compartments. Your 1/2 full tank
can become 1/4 usable. Your 1/2 full tank may not be
really that full if the bladder slides inboard.
Moving the bladder in flight will cause wear.
However you do it, you must stabilize the bladder to
make it a true tank. That means you need enough
access and a method of mounting that doesn't tear the
bladder. Don's 12" sq hole might work if it is
planned well and you can get both arms to all corners,
but you have to close it with something that doesn't
poke the bladder too.
The only bladders I delt with had to be tied in place
with cords by reaching between the bladder and outer
shell.
kurt S.
--- Don Smythe <dosmythe@cox.net> wrote:
> Guy,
> Like I said the other day, you would probably
> have to cut an access hole
> in the tops of the tanks in order to be able to
> reach all the insides. The
> hole might have to be 12 inches square or whatever
> it takes to reach all the
> insides. Could possibly be done. After that, just
> fabricate an aluminum
> plate for the hole and attach with flush screws.
> This is just a thought in
> case many of us might have to make drastic changes
> due to ethanol or
> whatever. I personally would rather consider this
> type approach than doing a blanket tank change out.
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: kurt schrader <smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
Workable numbers John.
They tell more. Is that 4000 RPM at full throttle?
If not, what is your max speed, level flight and full
power? Can you go to max throttle without exceeding
your RPM limit in flight? If you get to the RPM limit
first, you need more pitch.
If possible, use 2000 feet pressure altitude (29.92
set) for comparison. That is about where I did much
of my testing so I could be consistant. Easier for us
to compare at it then.
I think you can put in a little more pitch and still
do well. Depends upon where you want the best
performance to be of course, T/O, climb, or cruise.
Looks like you have plenty of climb now and could tune
in a little more cruise. See what one more degree
does?
Since I have an inflight variable pitch prop and no
pitch gauge, I had to devise a way to set consistant
power to compare for performance testing. What I used
was max pitch and full throttle for one setting, and
increase to 3750 RPM at full throttle for the other.
I do not have good numbes for 4000 RPM for you right
now, but I am faster than that at just 3750 and full
throttle.
Not sure if this is best, but I pull 6 psi boost in
cruise. That should convert to about 42" for those
who measure that way. That seems to be where the
turbo is set to maintain pressure, since it seldom
goes higher.
Rick, what settings did you use? If 6psi is good,
John could pull a little more power with more pitch.
Kurt S.
--- John Anderson <janderson412@hotmail.com> wrote:
Kurt and others, I increased the pitch on my Warpdrive
72" 3 blade prop 1 degree and t/o, climb seem about
the same but airpeed rose at 4000rpm from 90 to 94ish.
Pulling just under one more inch of boost (1.5 psi) at
the same RPM. How does that compare to yours. John A.
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