Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 07:38 AM - Re: Trim servo (Dan Billingsley)
2. 08:18 AM - Re: changing E-mail address (Don Pearsall)
3. 10:21 AM - Carlisle Tires WAS: Re: Taiwan tyres (Napier, Mark)
4. 11:57 AM - Re: Carlisle Tires WAS: Re: Taiwan tyres (flier)
5. 12:54 PM - Re: Carlisle Tires WAS: Re: Taiwan tyres (kurt schrader)
6. 01:02 PM - Re: Warp drive hub.Very Strange (kurt schrader)
7. 01:21 PM - Re: Warp drive hub. (kurt schrader)
8. 01:43 PM - speed and drag reduction (Fox5flyer)
9. 01:44 PM - Re: (off-topic) Casper (kurt schrader)
10. 01:48 PM - Re: Warp drive hub.Very Strange (John Anderson)
11. 01:52 PM - Re: Kitfox and Avid Tundra Tires (kurt schrader)
12. 01:55 PM - Re: Alchol resistant coatings (kurt schrader)
13. 02:18 PM - Re: Warp drive hub. (Fox5flyer)
14. 02:21 PM - Re: (off-topic) Casper (Michel Verheughe)
15. 02:27 PM - Re: 582 - compression test (Noel Loveys)
16. 02:32 PM - Re: Carlisle Tires (Michel Verheughe)
17. 02:42 PM - Re: 582 - compression test (Noel Loveys)
18. 07:21 PM - Re: 582 - compression test Eric Tucker said no (Malcolmbru@aol.com)
19. 08:18 PM - Re: Carlisle Tires WAS: Re: Taiwan tyres (flier)
20. 09:32 PM - 912s vs. Jabiru 3300? (darinh)
21. 09:50 PM - DAR Inspection (Guy Buchanan)
22. 10:39 PM - Re: 912s vs. Jabiru 3300? (Kaufjm@aol.com)
23. 10:52 PM - CongratulationsRe: DAR Inspection (Robert Harris)
Message 1
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Rick,
I might be interested in it. I'm building a IV Speedster and I will be needing
one. Contact me off list, thanks.
Dan dan@azshowersolutions.com
QSS <msm@byterocky.net> wrote:
Thanks Rick but I have just sent a money order off to the states today.
You are the 3rd response I have had from the list and I appreciate your offer.
Regards
Graeme ----- Original Message -----
From: wingsdown
To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, June 30, 2006 10:35 AM
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Trim servo
If its the same as they use on the 5 I have one for sale. Tested and works fine.
Rick
-----Original Message-----
Sent: Thursday, June 29, 2006 1:56 AM
Would anyone on the list that is parting out a Model 1V have a trim servo for
sale. Just found out that mine has had a spike and needs replacing.
Regards
Graeme
---------------------------------
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Date: 29/06/2006
Message 2
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| Subject: | changing E-mail address |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Don Pearsall" <donpearsall@comcast.net>
Kirk, just send me the old and new addresses and I will take care of it.
Send to: donpearsall@comcast.net
Don
-----Original Message-----
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of kirk hull
Sent: Thursday, June 29, 2006 12:16 PM
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "kirk hull" <kirkhull@sbcglobal.net>
I am changing my address and was wandering what I had to do to remove the
old one from matronics and add the new one?
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Carlisle Tires WAS: Re: Taiwan tyres |
Hey Michel,
Thanks for posting the information on those tires.
I'm thinking about a pair of Carlisle "Smooth Operators". Model 599358
(18x9.50-8) are 17.8" diameter and 8.7" width. These should fit my
wheel pants.
My current tires are 16x6.50-8 trailer tires. The tread grips on
pavement so I pump them up hard to get some "drift". That makes the
ride a bit harsh on my grass strip. I think that a tire with more
sidewall at lower pressure (24 vs. 40) might ride better and the slick
round profile might not dig in so hard during a swerve on asphalt.
Does anyone have any first hand experience with large slick tires on
pavement?
When I changed the tires I took the mounted tires to a shop that
services ATV's. They dismounted them and I cleaned up and polished the
rims. I mounted a pair of metal right angle valve stems to make it
easier use an air chuck. I'm using them tubeless.
My next door neighbor showed me how to mount the new tires. Hard but
doable.
http://www.carlisletire.com/products/smooth_operators/smooth/index.html
http://www.tiresunlimited.com/ALL%20TIRES/Carlisle/carlisle_smooth_and_s
lick.htm
Wish me luck!
Mark Napier
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no
<mailto:michel@online.no?subject=Re:%20Taiwan%20tyres&replyto=c05a948f8e
9d623089986d26af48a78a@online.no> >
On Jun 29, 2006, at 3:43 PM, Lowell Fitt wrote:
> I find it extremely difficult to break the bead with any tire I have
> ever put on these 8" original Kitfox rims.
This is why I don't want to do it myself, Lowell. I take the wheels to
the workshop that does it professionally. They use a machine that turns
around the tyre making a "poof!" sound. Cool stuff!
Gary, the King Fox tyres are very good looking but, because of my wheel
penetration skis, I can't use them without major modifications to the
skis. Hence my choice for some slightly smaller tyres.
Cheers,
Michel
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Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Carlisle Tires WAS: Re: Taiwan tyres |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "flier" <FLIER@sbcglobal.net>
I spent a few bucks at Harbor Freight years ago and
picked up one of their inexpensive ATV tire changing
tools. Works good. I never have any problems
breaking beads or getting tires back on the rims.
Just MHO, I run Carlisle tires but with tubes. Their
turf tires aren't designed to take the skids that
occur when a plane touches down on a hard surface.
Going 0 to 60mph is a serious strain on those tires
that are typically designed for ZTR and like mowers
and equipment. Thorns and sharp stuff on grass
fields are also an issue.
Regards,
Ted
--- Original Message ---
tyres
>Hey Michel,
>
>
>
>Thanks for posting the information on those tires.
>
>
>
>I'm thinking about a pair of Carlisle "Smooth
Operators". Model 599358
>(18x9.50-8) are 17.8" diameter and 8.7" width.
These should fit my
>wheel pants.
>
>
>
>My current tires are 16x6.50-8 trailer tires. The
tread grips on
>pavement so I pump them up hard to get
some "drift". That makes the
>ride a bit harsh on my grass strip. I think that a
tire with more
>sidewall at lower pressure (24 vs. 40) might ride
better and the slick
>round profile might not dig in so hard during a
swerve on asphalt.
>
>
>
>Does anyone have any first hand experience with
large slick tires on
>pavement?
>
>
>
>When I changed the tires I took the mounted tires to
a shop that
>services ATV's. They dismounted them and I cleaned
up and polished the
>rims. I mounted a pair of metal right angle valve
stems to make it
>easier use an air chuck. I'm using them tubeless.
>
>
>
>My next door neighbor showed me how to mount the new
tires. Hard but
>doable.
>
>
>
>http://www.carlisletire.com/products/smooth_operators
/smooth/index.html
>
>
>
>http://www.tiresunlimited.com/ALL%
20TIRES/Carlisle/carlisle_smooth_and_s
>lick.htm
>
>
>
>Wish me luck!
>
>
>
>Mark Napier
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Carlisle Tires WAS: Re: Taiwan tyres |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: kurt schrader <smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
Hey Ted,
You made me remember seeing a tool that might work.
Maybe it was the H. Freight tool I remember?
Does it consist of 2 legs and a lever? One leg
attaches to the wheel center and the other leg has a
curved foot on the bottom to press against the tire
bead. The lever connects the 2 and you just pull down
on the lever. It pulls up on the wheel center and
down on the bead. Work it around until the bead is
all free.
That is something people could build at home.
You still have to work both tire beads over of the
wheel, unless the wheel splits. Of course if the
wheel splits, you can get the tire off easier....
At the tire store, they use an inverted spoon on the
end of a lever. You raise a corner of the bead above
the rim with the spoon, curved side to the bead. Pull
the lever agaist the tire tool center leg around in a
circle to work all the bead over the rim.
Handymans special? Or is the H. Freight tool easier
and cheap enough?
Kurt S.
--- flier <FLIER@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> I spent a few bucks at Harbor Freight years ago and
> picked up one of their inexpensive ATV tire changing
>
> tools. Works good. I never have any problems
> breaking beads or getting tires back on the rims.>
> Regards,
>
> Ted
__________________________________________________
Message 6
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| Subject: | Warp drive hub.Very Strange |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: kurt schrader <smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
John,
The first 85 knots is easy for me, but the next 15 to
25 is a struggle. I have to check, but I think I top
out around 109 kts now at more than twice the fuel
flow of 85 kts.
I am wondering if my flapperons might be adjusted a
little too low and could use a few degrees up? Other
list members said they make a big difference. I sure
know the first notch makes 70 kts (max flap speed)
almost as draggy as 85 kts clean.
Or it may be my prop, like I said.
Kurt S.
--- John Anderson <janderson412@hotmail.com> wrote:
> Yep, I did this too, added a profiled leading edge
> to start of the vert stab
> to split the flow. Guess it all helps for as I've
> said, up to 100kts is
> relatively easy. Hopefully after increasing the prop
> pitch and get the boost
> up a bit at lower RPM I might get a wee bit
> more..John
__________________________________________________
Message 7
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: kurt schrader <smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
John,
Roger the "play time".
Without a prop pitch gauge, I have no defined
reference to set to in flight other than Max pitch or
Min in flight pitch. The minimum pitch in flight
gives me some static thrust before max RPM is reached,
but seems way too low for go-around in flight.
The takeoff setting is too much thrust, or too little
idle rpm. Either a great floater, or a dead stick
landing.
What I am setting is just a slight amount of positive
thrust with nearly closed throttle.
In any case, so far I need to power up on go-around
and keep advancing the pitch with power in coordinated
steps. Not exactly an obstical clearing proceedure
until I master it.
Remember, the CAP prop is reversable. There is no
"full fine" but a minimum pitch above about 2000 rpm.
Below that rpm you can go into reverse. Makes for a
steep pattern and short landing!
Kurt S.
--- John Anderson <janderson412@hotmail.com> wrote:
> Kurt, With an inflight adustable, do you not set
> full fine (or t/off setting) on final for go around?
> On t/o with the prop setting I have now, the diff
> between 4300 and 4700 is
> like day and night but as you say, it's the turbo
> boost at the latter
> setting that make the diff. I still need to coursen
> up a bit as full noise
> is still over 5000. If only I could get time to
> play...John
__________________________________________________
Message 8
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| Subject: | speed and drag reduction |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Fox5flyer" <morid@northland.lib.mi.us>
Kurt, assuming your airspeed is accurate, something is definitely wrong.
The Kitfox5 should be easily capable of 105kt cruise with the power you
have. Something appears to be holding you back. My S5 with 100hp normally
aspirated NSI cruises about 94kts at 4gph, 22" MP, and 3900 rpm which isn't
really working very hard. Maybe just more drag reduction is what you need?
Those flaperons can add a bunch of drag if they're set too low. Do you have
wheel pants? They're good for a couple knots. Lots of little cleanup
things help too like the fuel caps, jury struts, stab struts, etc.
My personal opinion is that weight and drag reduction are the things to put
the most work into if you want an efficient airplane.
Deke
> The first 85 knots is easy for me, but the next 15 to
> 25 is a struggle. I have to check, but I think I top
> out around 109 kts now at more than twice the fuel
> flow of 85 kts.
>
> I am wondering if my flapperons might be adjusted a
> little too low and could use a few degrees up? Other
> list members said they make a big difference. I sure
> know the first notch makes 70 kts (max flap speed)
> almost as draggy as 85 kts clean.
>
> Or it may be my prop, like I said.
>
> Kurt S.
>
> --- John Anderson <janderson412@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> > Yep, I did this too, added a profiled leading edge
> > to start of the vert stab
> > to split the flow. Guess it all helps for as I've
> > said, up to 100kts is
> > relatively easy. Hopefully after increasing the prop
> > pitch and get the boost
> > up a bit at lower RPM I might get a wee bit
> > more..John
>
> __________________________________________________
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: (off-topic) Casper |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: kurt schrader <smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
Michel,
Pull.....
the throttle.....
back..... :-)
Ok, I have to yield to the terrain you are blessed
with there. Too much to see in every sq kilometer.
Probably hard to decide if there is more fun inside
your Fox or out.
Glad you keep the fire, brandy, and flying
seperate.... Only allowed in France, last I heard.
Kurt S.
--- Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no> wrote:
> Friends, my Kitfox is flying much too fast! I don't
> get a chance to
> look at the scenery. Luckily, I have a very small
> video camera that
> allows me to review the scenery afterward, in the
> comfort of my home,
> by the fireplace with a good brandy. Now, look what
> I found (I grabbed
> a frame from the video): Casper the friendly ghost!
> I swear i didn't manipulate the photo, there are two
> tiny islands on that lake. Funny, isn't it?
>
> Cheers,
> Michel
>
> do not archive
__________________________________________________
Message 10
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| Subject: | Warp drive hub.Very Strange |
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resend the email using Plain Text formatting.
HOTMAIL is notorious for only including an HTML section
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Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Kitfox and Avid Tundra Tires |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: kurt schrader <smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
Hey Gary,
Please reset the date on your computer. I had to go
back to last year for this. :-)
Kurt S.
Do not archive
--- kitfoxjunky <kitfoxjunky@decisionlabs.com> wrote:
> I installed a set of the King Fox 21x12x8 tundra
> tires from supplier in
> Michigan.
__________________________________________________
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Alchol resistant coatings |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: kurt schrader <smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
Finaly back home and I can check on this. I used
Randolph's #912 Alcohol Resistant Coating for my
tanks. So far no leaks. It is a vinyl resin with
some additives.
That is all I can pass on. Has anyone else used this
one?
kurt S.
__________________________________________________
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Warp drive hub. |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Fox5flyer" <morid@northland.lib.mi.us>
Kurt, that CAP can go into reverse, but not in flight. It has sprung
counterweights built into it and won't go into beta so long as the prop is
spinning above a certain rpm. Even though your engine rpm may read 1400 or
so, the prop rpm is usually much higher on final because of the free
wheeling. Not sure what rpm the weights are set for, but it's well below
what the rpm would be on final. I can't get mine to go beta until it's
going pretty slow on the ground. This may vary somewhat depending on the
weights. That would be pretty scary to have that go into beta on final.
Deke
>
> Remember, the CAP prop is reversable. There is no
> "full fine" but a minimum pitch above about 2000 rpm.
> Below that rpm you can go into reverse. Makes for a
> steep pattern and short landing!
>
> Kurt S.
>
> --- John Anderson <janderson412@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> > Kurt, With an inflight adustable, do you not set
> > full fine (or t/off setting) on final for go around?
> > On t/o with the prop setting I have now, the diff
> > between 4300 and 4700 is
> > like day and night but as you say, it's the turbo
> > boost at the latter
> > setting that make the diff. I still need to coursen
> > up a bit as full noise
> > is still over 5000. If only I could get time to
> > play...John
>
> __________________________________________________
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: (off-topic) Casper |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no>
On Jun 30, 2006, at 10:44 PM, kurt schrader wrote:
> Glad you keep the fire, brandy, and flying
> seperate.... Only allowed in France, last I heard.
... only that they call it Cognac. But it's only fair since they
invented it in that region. The name brandy was actually given by the
Dutch: brandwijn or "burnt wine," as they wanted their French wine to
be more concentrated and resist the sea journey back to the Lower
Countries.
Reading about seafarers of the past centuries, it is amazing how much
goods like salt and wine were the main object of sea transportation.
Knowing that Magellan's sole purpose of his circumnavigation was to
bring back clove and nutmeg from the "Spice Islands" (today: Mollucus),
makes you wonder how a demanding palate the Renaissance European had.
Culinary art is nothing new ... but I digress, sorry! :-)
Cheers,
Michel
do not archive
Message 15
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| Subject: | 582 - compression test |
The diff test is done with the piston at TDC. Even in a poor cylinder
any
air passing the compression ring would just leak out the exhaust port
without pressurizing the crankcase at all.
Noel
-----Original Message-----
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
skyflyte@comcast.net
Sent: Thursday, June 29, 2006 2:33 PM
The differential pressure test is probably not a good idea for a 2
cycle
engine. It doesn't take a lot of pressure in the crankcase to blow out
the
crankshaft seals.
Mike
-------------- Original message --------------
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Noel Loveys"
>
> Differential testing not only tells you whether or not you have good
> compression but will also tell you if you have bad valve seats , which
ones
> and whether or not you have bad rings.
>
> Set up the diff test and listen for air at the air intake, the exhaust
and
> the oil filler to tell where the air is escaping.... It is recommended
if
> you are listening for air to have two people do the test the strongest
one
> holds the prop at TDC. I can't see why the diff. test wouldn't work on
the
> two stroke engines to test the integrity of the piston rings.
>
> Noel
>
>
>
> > -----Original Mess age--- --
> > From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> > Lowell Fitt
> > Sent: Wednesday, June 28, 2006 6:53 PM
> > To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
> > Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: 582 - compression test
> >
> >
> > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Lowell Fitt"
> >
> >
> > Marco,
> >
> > With the 912, The recommended technique is to use a
> > differential compression
> > testor. It has of two dials and you attach the unit in the
> > spark plug hole
> > and after findind top dead center pressurize to 80 lbs. using
> > the attached
> > pressure regulator. The unit will then read the pressure in
> > the cylinder -
> > usually a bit under the 80 lb. reference pressure. In our > >
manual, it
gives
> > the acceptable tolerance.
> >
> > The only hazard is when the piston is not at TDC. If this is
> > the case, the
> > piston will be forced down with the pressure and the prop will turn.
> >
> > Lowell
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > Sent: Wednesday, June 28, 2006 11:12 AM
> >
> >
> > > Hello KF listers.
> > >
> > > I'm doing my annual condition inspection and one of the
> > items is to check
> > > cylinder compression. Is there a recommended technique for
> > the 582 with
> > > Ducati CDI? I recall reading that the CDI modules can be
> > fried by cranking
> > > the engine with plugs disconnected. Will simply grounding
> > the disconnected
> > > plug suffice to prevent damage to modules?
> > > > ox-Lis
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Carlisle Tires |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no>
On Jun 30, 2006, at 7:19 PM, Napier, Mark wrote:
> I mounted a pair of metal right angle valve stems to make it easier
> use an air chuck.
Yep, that's why my tyre shop man did to my new tyres. Makes checking
the pressure so much easier. I didn't even know those bent valves
existed.
I also looked at Carlisle tyres when searching the internet and I
remember they were good looking. But ... the one I have now were closer
to buy! :-) You, Americans, don't know how difficult it is to shop for
non-standard things in a small country like Norway. You have everything
a phone call away and overnight delivery.
Cheers,
Michel
do not archive
Message 17
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| Subject: | 582 - compression test |
Don't bother with the "old fashioned test" There are too many
variables.
Temperature of the rings... Temperature of the cylinders..... speed the
starter can crank the engine. Worst lying SOBs I've ever seen!
Noel
-----Original Message-----
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Marco
Menezes
Sent: Thursday, June 29, 2006 4:25 PM
My plan was to do an "old fashioned" test. Pull a plug, insert the comp
tester, crank the engine a turn or 2 with mags off, read the gauge,
repeat
on other cyl.. But back to my original question: Does anyone know of I
have
to take any special precautions to keep from ruining my CDI modules?
Hey Bob Robertson, are you following this thread?
skyflyte@comcast.net wrote:
The differential pressure test is probably not a good idea for a 2
cycle
engine. It doesn't take a lot of pressure in the crankcase to blow out
the
crankshaft seals.
Mike
-------------- Original message --------------
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Noel Loveys"
>
> Differential testing not only tells you whether or not you have good
> compression but will also tell you if you have bad valve seats , which
ones
> and whether or not you have bad rings.
>
> Set up the diff test and listen for air at the air intake, the exhaust
and
> the oil filler to tell where the air is escaping.... It is recommended
if
> you are listening for air to have two people do the test the strongest
one
> holds the prop at TDC. I can't see why the diff. test wouldn't work on
the
> two stroke engines to test the integrity of the piston rings.
>
> Noel
>
>
>
> > -----Original Mess age--- --
> > From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> > Lowell Fitt
> > Sent: Wednesday, June 28, 2006 6:53 PM
> > To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
> > Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: 582 - compression test
> >
> >
> > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Lowell Fitt"
> >
> >
> > Marco,
> >
> > With the 912, The recommended technique is to use a
> > differential compression
> > testor. It has of two dials and you attach the unit in the
> > spark plug hole
> > and after findind top dead center pressurize to 80 lbs. using
> > the attached
> > pressure regulator. The unit will then read the pressure in
> > the cylinder -
> > usually a bit under the 80 lb. reference pressure. In our > >
manual, it
gives
> > the acceptable tolerance.
> >
> > The only hazard is when the piston is not at TDC. If this is
> > the case, the
> > piston will be forced down with the pressure and the prop will turn.
> >
> > Lowell
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > Sent: Wednesday, June 28, 2006 11:12 AM
> >
> >
> > > Hello KF listers.
> > >
> > > I'm doing my annual condition inspection and one of the
> > items is to check
> > > cylinder compression. Is there a recommended technique for
> > the 582 with
> > > Ducati CDI? I recall reading that the CDI modules can be
> > fried by cranking
> > > the engine with plugs disconnected. Will simply grounding
> > the disconnected
> > > plug suffice to prevent damage to modules?
> > > > ox-Lis
Marco Menezes
Model 2 582
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: 582 - compression test Eric Tucker said no |
Yes Eric tucker said NO nothing special is needed to keep the cdi from
burning up on a simple compreshion test. malcolm
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Carlisle Tires WAS: Re: Taiwan tyres |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "flier" <flier@sbcglobal.net>
Hey Kurt,
It's this one...
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=34552
I've use it to do the 'Fox, ATVs, and trailer tires.
Regards,
Ted
-----Original Message-----
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of kurt
schrader
Sent: Friday, June 30, 2006 2:53 PM
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: kurt schrader
<smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
Hey Ted,
You made me remember seeing a tool that might work.
Maybe it was the H. Freight tool I remember?
Does it consist of 2 legs and a lever? One leg
attaches to the wheel center and the other leg has a
curved foot on the bottom to press against the tire
bead. The lever connects the 2 and you just pull down
on the lever. It pulls up on the wheel center and
down on the bead. Work it around until the bead is
all free.
That is something people could build at home.
You still have to work both tire beads over of the
wheel, unless the wheel splits. Of course if the
wheel splits, you can get the tire off easier....
At the tire store, they use an inverted spoon on the
end of a lever. You raise a corner of the bead above
the rim with the spoon, curved side to the bead. Pull
the lever agaist the tire tool center leg around in a
circle to work all the bead over the rim.
Handymans special? Or is the H. Freight tool easier
and cheap enough?
Kurt S.
--- flier <FLIER@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> I spent a few bucks at Harbor Freight years ago and
> picked up one of their inexpensive ATV tire changing
>
> tools. Works good. I never have any problems
> breaking beads or getting tires back on the rims.>
> Regards,
>
> Ted
__________________________________________________
Message 20
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| Subject: | 912s vs. Jabiru 3300? |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "darinh" <gerns25@netscape.net>
I am trying to make a decision between the 912s and the Jabiru 3300 for my series
7 and would like any and all comments or thoughts on either one. If anyone
has experience with both, their comments would be greatly appreciated. I like
the fact that the Jabiru doesn't have a gearbox and has 20 more hp. I also
like the fact that it has a longer TBO and the cost of that overhaul is substantially
less than the Rotax. The Jabiru is a bit heavier but not much so the
weight to hp ratio is about the same. I have owned a 912UL and I know they are
bulletproof (at least mine was), but...
All comments welcome.
Thanks, Darin
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=44086#44086
Message 21
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Hi all,
After 13 years of construction, N125TY was signed off today by
John Shablow, DAR. I'm ready to go flying! Look for more updates in the
next week or so. (I've got to screw up my courage, as well as my abilities.)
Guy Buchanan
K-IV 1200 / 582-C / Warp / 99.9% done, thanks mostly to Bob Ducar.
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: 912s vs. Jabiru 3300? |
I have a Kitfox IV with a 912 ULS and I'll hopefully never own another
aircraft with a Rotax! I
Go with the Jabiru.
Message 23
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Robert Harris" <taxman_robert@hotmail.com>
Congratulations Guy,
Your plane is beautiful.
Robert
>From: Guy Buchanan <bnn@nethere.com>
>To: kitfox-list@matronics.com, Buck & Jo Buchanan <buckajo@cox.net>
>Subject: Kitfox-List: DAR Inspection
>Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2006 21:48:21 -0700
>
>Hi all,
> After 13 years of construction, N125TY was signed off today by
>John Shablow, DAR. I'm ready to go flying! Look for more updates in the
>next week or so. (I've got to screw up my courage, as well as my
>abilities.)
>
>
>Guy Buchanan
>K-IV 1200 / 582-C / Warp / 99.9% done, thanks mostly to Bob Ducar.
><< Cheesecakesmall.jpg >>
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