Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:01 AM - Re: Wings Level ? (Ceashman@aol.com)
2. 03:23 AM - Re: wrong photo. (Guy Buchanan)
3. 03:26 AM - Re: Wings Level ? (Guy Buchanan)
4. 03:42 AM - Re: Instructions for Cargo Bay Kit - Series 5 (Guy Buchanan)
5. 04:23 AM - Fly In (MA Stanard)
6. 04:25 AM - Re: wrong photo. (Dave G.)
7. 04:29 AM - Re: wrong photo. (Dave G.)
8. 05:27 AM - Re: LED Nav lights?? (Lynn Matteson)
9. 05:27 AM - Re: Engine thrust lines, was: Wings Level ? (Bradley M Webb)
10. 05:52 AM - Re: Wings Level ? (Lynn Matteson)
11. 07:19 AM - Re: Instructions for Cargo Bay Kit - Series 5 (Dan Billingsley)
12. 07:46 AM - Re: Wings Level ? (kerrjohna@comcast.net)
13. 08:07 AM - Re: Wings Level ? (Jose M. Toro)
14. 10:20 AM - Re: LED nav lights (John)
15. 12:46 PM - Re: LED Nav lights?? (Peter Graichen)
16. 03:32 PM - Re: Jabiru 2200 conversion (Lynn Matteson)
17. 04:01 PM - master cylinder (Eric)
18. 06:06 PM - Re: master cylinder (Dee Young)
19. 06:44 PM - Re: master cylinder (Jose M. Toro)
20. 07:04 PM - Re: Name Check - Airplane type (neflyer48)
21. 08:06 PM - Re: master cylinder (kurt schrader)
22. 11:00 PM - Re: Jabiru 2200 conversion (Michel Verheughe)
Message 1
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Wings Level ? |
--From: Floran H.
--I can give the rudder petal a quick push and cock the tailwheel so that it
acts as a trim.
--As I use right rudder pedal on take of it usually means that I have to kick
the left rudder to --trim the airplane when I level off. I used fly a Cessna
180 that I had to do the same thing.
Hi Floran.
That sounds kind of logical, using the tail wheel as a trim tab.
Notice you nose wheel guy,s, this is another advantage of having the steering
wheel at back :)
I am also thinking that an 8 inch wheel would be more beneficial to in
flight trim than the smaller 6 inch. But then again, 8 inch = more drag. 6 inch
looks nicer.
Eric.
Message 2
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: wrong photo. |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Guy Buchanan <bnn@nethere.com>
At 09:36 PM 9/6/2006, you wrote:
> am surpised to see that the new inserts do not have
>the "V" relief cut in each end. This "V" cut is to
>reduce the sharp change in stiffness at the insert
>ends, which creates stress points on the spar.
I believe you cut those in yourself. You definitely want them.
Guy Buchanan
K-IV 1200 / 582-C / Warp / 100% done, thanks mostly to Bob Ducar.
Message 3
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Wings Level ? |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Guy Buchanan <bnn@nethere.com>
At 09:02 PM 9/6/2006, you wrote:
>If it isn't too complex a procedure, I might be willing to try.
Horizontal offset isn't too difficult. First check your prop tracking. It
should be within 1/16". If it is, then set a blade horizontal and measure
from the tip to the something near the rudder pivot. (It doesn't matter
what, as long as it's close to centerline and can be duplicated exactly on
both sides.) Shift that blade to the other side and measure the same way.
The prop offset angle is then:
arctan ((distance measured one side - distance measured the other side) /
prop diameter)
This tells you nothing, of course, about where the prop thrust centerline
crosses the aircraft centerline. If you have a laser level that will throw
a vertical line you might be able to measure the offset at the prop hub and
trig the crossing.
You can do the same for the vertical offset, but it's harder since you must
construct the horizontal centerline by leveling the airframe and using a
level to find a measuring point offset to the front or rear. Or you can
just pick a point on your airframe, measure the prop angle relative to
that, and replicate it on other airframes. This assumes, of course, that
the other airframes are identical; a dubious assumption for our aircraft.
Guy Buchanan
K-IV 1200 / 582-C / Warp / 100% done, thanks mostly to Bob Ducar.
Message 4
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Instructions for Cargo Bay Kit - Series 5 |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Guy Buchanan <bnn@nethere.com>
At 05:50 PM 9/6/2006, you wrote:
>Personally I would loose (actually I did) the baggage sack idea and stick
>in a nice baggage compartment. Several of the guys here in the Pheonix
>area have done this and it's a great mod. Here are some pictures of how I
>did it.
Dan,
I could not tell from your pictures if you have something
supporting the baggage floor beyond Adel clamps. Since the floor is above
the control system I'm reminding Mark that it's very important that the
floor be supporting by something that will never shift. In my case I
supported the back of the floor with an aluminum angle "A" frame down to
the transverse frame tubes where they meet the verticals. I supported the
front by attaching the forward upper transverse member to the upper
transverse seat support and then dropping verticals and diagonals to the
baggage floor. When all was done I tested it by gingerly standing in the
middle of the baggage floor. (I weigh 200 pounds. Remember 40 pounds times
6 g's is 240 pounds.) Yes, I saw you tested your's the same way. I'm glad.
I was just concerned, with mine, that the Adel clamps would slide in time.
By the way. I really like your gun and rod cases. I wish I had put
in my baggage compartment before covering so I could have done the same.
Although I'm not sure my CG would have allowed me to put anything back
there heavier than a fly rod.
Guy
Message 5
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
ATTENTION ALL TEXAS FOXERS
If any kitfoxers would be interested in doing a fly-in for all Texas
Foxers please email me and lets see if we can make it happen. Nothing
fancy, Just a one day fly-in to get to meet everyone. I live in the
beautiful hill country in Kerrville. It would be a great place to come
for the weekend and meet all your fellow foxers out there. Send me an
email if you are interested.
Happy Flying,
Michael Stanard
Message 6
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: wrong photo. |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Dave G." <occom@ns.sympatico.ca>
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: kurt schrader
> <smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
>
> I am surpised to see that the new inserts do not have
> the "V" relief cut in each end. This "V" cut is to
> reduce the sharp change in stiffness at the insert
> ends, which creates stress points on the spar.
>
> Anyone else have the inserts without the relief "Vs"?
> It is new to me.
>
They just came out of the crate, I'll get to that.
Message 7
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: wrong photo. |
The old insert for one side is still good, but Kitfox recommended they
not be reused. There is some scratching from being pushed out. With the
thicker walls I don't think the old inserts will fit the new spars
anyway.
----- Original Message -----
From: Guy Buchanan
To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, September 06, 2006 9:58 PM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: wrong photo.
At 03:49 PM 9/6/2006, you wrote:
Here is a close up of the insert end on.
do not archive
Are the inserts still good? The one you show appears OK. Couldn't you
re-use them? (The old holes don't matter.)
Guy Buchanan
K-IV 1200 / 582-C / Warp / 100% done, thanks mostly to Bob Ducar.
Message 8
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: LED Nav lights?? |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt@jps.net>
Check with John McBean...I bought a set from him, and they work just
fine. I don't recall the amp draw, but it is WAY low, These are combo
strobes and Nav lights...separate switches of course.
Lynn
On Wednesday, September 6, 2006, at 04:07 PM, darinh wrote:
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "darinh" <gerns25@netscape.net>
>
> I am looking at putting LED Navs in on my Series 7 to reduce the amp
> draw from the alternator. Has anyone used these or know anything
> about them? I had Whelen strobes and navs on my Model III (912UL) and
> with the com, transponder, GPS, EIS, stobes, and navs, the 18 amp
> alternator could not keep up. I would like to install the same
> instrumentation on my 7 and add landing/taxi lights but unless I can
> decrease the amp draw from a couple of these, it doesn't look like a
> viable option. Anyone know of a company that is making the LED
> navs?...If so, what do you guys (and possibly gals) recommend?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Darin Hawkes
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=60023#60023
>
>
Message 9
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Engine thrust lines, was: Wings Level ? |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Bradley M Webb" <bmwebb@cox.net>
I used a laser level, a cheapy ($25) from the Home Depot Aviation Dept. The
bubble on it was wrong, but I calibrated it using a building level, and
marked new lines on the bubble with a Sharpie.
Here's what I did. Level the fuselage using the normal points. I elevated
the tail with sawhorses, and used wood shims to get it level. I deflated the
tires to level it side-to-side. I then hung two plumb-bobs on the motor, one
from the front prop hub, and one from the rear of the motor (crank pulley on
my Geo).
I then placed the laser level on the floor out in front of the plane about 4
feet, and put the light so that it gave a line on the floor, crossed the
bolt at the tailwheel, up through the bottom motor mount bolt, and through
the prop hub. I hung a third plumb-bob from the tail, just to verify the
laser vertical. This took some time, but it wasn't hard.
Now, I put masking tape on the floor, and using a straight edge, I drew a
line under the motor on the tape at the laser line. Using trig, I determined
that the rear of the motor needed to be .78 inches to the left of center, to
place the prop hub dead center of the cowl (airframe CL), and give me 2
degrees offset (right thrust). Go here:
http://www.gsal.org/tools/offset_calc.htm . This tool is for model
airplanes, but its basic trig, and works for anything.
Move the motor until the front plump line is dead center on the tape, and/or
laser beam is center on the hub, and the rear line is .78 to the left on the
tape. I then tacked up my mount tubing, re-checking the plumb lines about
1000x.
For the down thrust, I used a cheap angle tool I bought at Harbor Freight,
and placed it on a motor surface I found to be 90 degrees to the prop hub.
This happened to be my valve cover, but I could have used the prop hub
itself, as the tool has a magnet on it to hold it there.
For the vertical position, I used the laser strapped to my toolbox in front
of the plane, and leveled it horizontally. I had drawn a line on my firewall
where I needed the hub to be in relation to the cowl. When the laser is
level and matches the firewall line, the light is projected on the prop hub,
and I moved the motor up and down 'til satisfied. I then re-checked
everything another 1000x, and welded.
After I was done, I am totally confident my prop hub is where I wanted it.
This should work on any motor.
I'm not sure it's where Dan Denney intended it to be, but that's the info I
don't have, and couldn't get. If it's wrong from flight tests, I'll shim the
motor 'til its right.
Hope that helps,
Bradley
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lowell Fitt
Sent: Thursday, September 07, 2006 12:02 AM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Wings Level ?
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt@sbcglobal.net>
Bradley,
At the risk of sounding like dummy, I haven't a clue how to determine thrust
offset measurements. It would seem to me that it would require some
sophisticated way of accurately determining the long axis of the airframe
and the thrust line of the engine - perp. to the prop flange, I suppose,
and calculating an angle.
All I did was add washers to compensate for a warped engine mount per the
manual. I will report on where the washers are if that is helpful, but my
guess is that if the engineers put thrust offset into the mount, it would be
buried there somewhere in the design.
If it isn't too complex a procedure, I might be willing to try.
Lowell
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bradley M Webb" <bmwebb@cox.net>
Sent: Wednesday, September 06, 2006 4:38 PM
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Wings Level ?
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Bradley M Webb" <bmwebb@cox.net>
>
> Lowell,
> If you could, I'd be very interested in your thrust offset measurements. I
> put in 2 degrees down and 2 degrees right on my new mount, going by the
> old
> standard, but I couldn't find any reference to what it should be for the
> fox.
>
> Bradley
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lowell Fitt
> Sent: Wednesday, September 06, 2006 6:48 PM
> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Wings Level ?
>
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt@sbcglobal.net>
>
> Interesting thought. I put washers under the engine mount to shim it a
> bit
> when building per the post weld distortion. I will check that to see if
> the
>
> locations are likely to give the result I have.
>
> Lowell
> do not archive
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bob Unternaehrer" <shilocom@mcmsys.com>
> To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, September 06, 2006 4:45 AM
> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Wings Level ?
>
>
>> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Bob Unternaehrer"
>> <shilocom@mcmsys.com>
>>
>> You MAY find that different motor torque is the culprit. You can either
>> use
>> rudder trim or shim for motor offset and probably help. Bob UP.
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt@sbcglobal.net>
>> To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
>> Sent: Tuesday, September 05, 2006 8:51 PM
>> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Wings Level ?
>>
>>
>>> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt@sbcglobal.net>
>>>
>>> I tend to agree with Randy on this one. On a calm gradual descent I can
>> fly
>>> hands off for long periods. I mention this, because it gives me reason
>>> to
>>> believe my wings are trimmed correctly, but at cruise, I need a tad of
>> right
>>> rudder to maintain heading. While coming home from our last cross
>> country,
>>> We flew two legs of about 3 hours each and during that time, I worked on
>> my
>>> coodinated flight with a little right rudder and trying to keep the ball
>>> centered and watching the wingtips relative to the horizon. Either I am
>>> losing it as a pilot or just losing it, but I have a real challenge
>>> trying
>>> to fly with the wings level. I am strongly motivated to do something
>>> with
>>> the rudder trim and see if that is my problem.
>>>
>>> When we fly the highways or the rivers, no problemo, as we are in turns
>>> almost continuously, but a GPS heading for hours at a time - I need some
>>> work.
>>>
>>> Lowell
>>> ----- Original Message -----
>>> From: "Randy Daughenbaugh" <rjdaugh@rapidnet.com>
>>> To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
>>> Sent: Tuesday, September 05, 2006 3:01 PM
>>> Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Wings Level ?
>>>
>>>
>>> > Rex,
>>> >
>>> > I am still skeptical. When on the ground, engine off - just sitting
>>> > there -
>>> > have a friend lift one wing tip 3.5 inches. This is easy to do. Note
>> the
>>> > difference. Now consider the same difference in the air with very
>>> > light
>>> > turbulence.
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>> > Your second correction: I stand corrected. What I should have said
>>> > is
>>> > how
>>> > coordinated I am flying. But where it applies, straight line cruise,
>> they
>>> > are the same thing.
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>> > Randy
>>> >
>>> > .
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>> > _____
>>> >
>>> > From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
>>> > [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rex Shaw
>>> > Sent: Tuesday, September 05, 2006 11:08 AM
>>> > To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
>>> > Subject: Kitfox-List: Wings Level ?
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>> > Are there really Fox drivers out there that are
>>> > so good that they can tell if one wing tip is 7" higher than the
>>> > other?
>>> > With the plane on a level surface (hangar floor?) this is easy too
>>> > determine, but try it out on a sorta level field. You need a good
>>> > level
>>> > to
>>> > tell.
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>> > I would think one can easilly detect 7'' out of level in flight by
>> looking
>>> > out under one wing then the other to the horizon. My instructor taught
>> me
>>> > this way back.
>>> >
>>> > When I fly, I just use the ball for an immediate indication of how
>>> > level
>> I
>>> > have the wings.
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>> > The ball can be centred without being level in flight. It may act as a
>>> > level
>>> > on the groung and stationary. Take for example if you are making a
>>> > co-ordinated turn. The ball is in the centre but the wings aren't
>>> > level.
>>> >
>>> >
>>> > Rex.
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 10
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Wings Level ? |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt@jps.net>
I'm also thinking about a trim fin for the rudder, Lowell. I'd like a
cabin-adjustable. The biggest problem is I don't want to have to deal
with stripping the covering and going in there with a servo, etc. I'm
going to think more about it after I get my Sport Pilot Cert. and I get
to actually GO somewhere...then when my right leg gets oversize, I'll
put that project higher on the priority list. : )
Lynn
On Wednesday, September 6, 2006, at 06:02 PM, Lowell Fitt wrote:
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt@sbcglobal.net>
>
> I do have a bit of dihedral. I am goung to ry to do something with
> the rudder. I am in deep thought about it, trying to avoid the tab,
> but that eventualy will be the likely solution.
>
> Lowell
Message 11
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Instructions for Cargo Bay Kit - Series 5 |
Hey Guy,
I could not tell from your pictures if you have something
supporting the baggage floor beyond Adel clamps
The angle is primarially supported with adel clamps, however, I do have rivets
tied into the top horizontal tube at the back (holding the verticals) and I
am bolted into the front(behind the seats). I also was concerned about the adel
clamps holding and Murle Williams said if I used the correct clamps for each
vertical, I would have no problem. His reference was directed to Mike Gibbs KF-IV
which crashed and totaled coming in and pancaked.(jump in here Mike to add
anything) His baggage compartment only had adel clamps and did not move. That
was very good proof for me. However, If you have the welder and skills, it certainly
wouldn't hurt to weld in tabs to bolt to...this is what Steve Kellandar
did. All insurance is a good thing when it comes to safety.
By the way. I really like your gun and rod cases. I wish I had put
in my baggage compartment before covering so I could have done the same.
Although I'm not sure my CG would have allowed me to put anything back
there heavier than a fly rod.
Others before me have put shotguns down the center where I have mine tied. I'm
going to watch that close when it comes to weight and balance hoping it will come
out ok. May need to keep it to a lightweight .410 :>)
Dan
Guy Buchanan <bnn@nethere.com> wrote:
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Guy Buchanan
At 05:50 PM 9/6/2006, you wrote:
>Personally I would loose (actually I did) the baggage sack idea and stick
>in a nice baggage compartment. Several of the guys here in the Pheonix
>area have done this and it's a great mod. Here are some pictures of how I
>did it.
Dan,
I could not tell from your pictures if you have something
supporting the baggage floor beyond Adel clamps. Since the floor is above
the control system I'm reminding Mark that it's very important that the
floor be supporting by something that will never shift. In my case I
supported the back of the floor with an aluminum angle "A" frame down to
the transverse frame tubes where they meet the verticals. I supported the
front by attaching the forward upper transverse member to the upper
transverse seat support and then dropping verticals and diagonals to the
baggage floor. When all was done I tested it by gingerly standing in the
middle of the baggage floor. (I weigh 200 pounds. Remember 40 pounds times
6 g's is 240 pounds.) Yes, I saw you tested your's the same way. I'm glad.
I was just concerned, with mine, that the Adel clamps would slide in time.
By the way. I really like your gun and rod cases. I wish I had put
in my baggage compartment before covering so I could have done the same.
Although I'm not sure my CG would have allowed me to put anything back
there heavier than a fly rod.
Guy
Message 12
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Wings Level ? |
Lowell, early on I had experimented with the notion of progressively shortening
the right rudder pedal spring until I had it where it was most comfortable. It
can be done by using safety wire to close up multiple loops of the spring incrimentally.
In the end I went with the tab because it was less hassle to adjust.
John Kerr
-------------- Original message --------------
From: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt@sbcglobal.net>
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Lowell Fitt"
>
> I do have a bit of dihedral. I am goung to ry to do something with the
> rudder. I am in deep thought about it, trying to avoid the tab, but that
> eventualy will be the likely solution.
>
> Lowell
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Guy Buchanan"
> To:
> Sent: Tuesday, September 05, 2006 8:27 PM
> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Wings Level ?
>
>
> > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Guy Buchanan
> >
> > At 06:51 PM 9/5/2006, you wrote:
> >>Either I am
> >>losing it as a pilot or just losing it, but I have a real challenge trying
> >>to fly with the wings level. I am strongly motivated to do something with
> >>the rudder trim and see if that is my problem.
> >
> > If I recall correctly, your plane doesn't have a lot of dihedral. If you
> > want to fly hands-off, pump up the dihedral and it will get rock steady.
> >
> >
> > Guy Buchanan
> > K-IV 1200 / 582-C / Warp / 100% done, thanks mostly to Bob Ducar.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
<html><body>
<DIV>Lowell, early on I had experimented with the notion of progressively shortening
the right rudder pedal spring until I had it where it was most comfortable.
It can be done by using safety wire to close up multiple loops of the spring
incrimentally.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>In the end I went with the tab because it was less hassle to adjust.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>John Kerr</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #1010ff 2px
solid">-------------- Original message -------------- <BR>From: "Lowell Fitt"
<lcfitt@sbcglobal.net> <BR><BR>> --> Kitfox-List message posted
by: "Lowell Fitt" <LCFITT@SBCGLOBAL.NET><BR>> <BR>> I do have a bit of dihedral.
I am goung to ry to do something with the <BR>> rudder. I am in deep
thought about it, trying to avoid the tab, but that <BR>> eventualy will
be the likely solution. <BR>> <BR>> Lowell <BR>> ----- Original Message
----- <BR>> From: "Guy Buchanan" <BNN@NETHERE.COM><BR>> To: <KITFOX-LIST@MATRONICS.COM><BR>>
Sent: Tuesday, September 05, 2006 8:27 PM <BR>>
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Wings Level ? <BR>> <BR>> <BR>> > -->
Kitfox-List message posted by: Guy Buchanan <BNN@NETHERE.COM><BR>> > <BR>>
> At 06:51 PM 9/5/2006, you wrote: <BR>> >>Either I am <BR>>
>>losing it as a pilot or just losing it,
but I
w.matr
<pre><b><font size=2 color="#000000" face="courier new,courier">
</b></font></pre></body></html>
Message 13
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Wings Level ? |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Jose M. Toro" <jose_m_toro@yahoo.com>
Lynn:
An option is to use different length rudder cables.
This implies that the rudder will be slightly to the
right when the rudder pedals are in the neutral
position. You will still need to apply pressure on
the right pedal, but the feet will be aproximately
aligned (your body will be symetrically aligned with
the seat).
I have seen this on Challengers, and intend to do it
on my new plane.
Jos
--- Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt@jps.net> wrote:
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Lynn Matteson
> <lynnmatt@jps.net>
>
> I'm also thinking about a trim fin for the rudder,
> Lowell. I'd like a
> cabin-adjustable. The biggest problem is I don't
> want to have to deal
> with stripping the covering and going in there with
> a servo, etc. I'm
> going to think more about it after I get my Sport
> Pilot Cert. and I get
> to actually GO somewhere...then when my right leg
> gets oversize, I'll
> put that project higher on the priority list. : )
>
> Lynn
> On Wednesday, September 6, 2006, at 06:02 PM,
> Lowell Fitt wrote:
>
> > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Lowell Fitt"
> <lcfitt@sbcglobal.net>
> >
> > I do have a bit of dihedral. I am goung to ry to
> do something with
> > the rudder. I am in deep thought about it, trying
> to avoid the tab,
> > but that eventualy will be the likely solution.
> >
> > Lowell
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List
>
> Web Forums!
>
>
> Admin.
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________________________
Message 14
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: LED nav lights |
Here are some I looked up in the past:
http://www.creativair.com/lights-kits-c-22.html
and:
http://www.killacycle.com/Lights.htm
Regards,
John Stoner
KF III, 582
Alaska
Message 15
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | LED Nav lights?? |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Peter Graichen" <n10pg@neo.rr.com>
Hello Darin:
I saw a display at last Oshkosh of a wingtip LED Position/strobe setup and
promptly purchased a set. They arrived a few days later and I installed
them, replacing my Whelen A600-PG-PR. They look better and the LEDs are
infinitely brighter. I love 'em.
They are called Skybright Nightlight Strobe/LED System made by Rollison
Airplane Co. (Rob Rollison), Bloomfield IN 47424 (812-384-4972),
www.airplanegear.com
If you talk to Rob Rollison please be sure to say hello for me.
Sincerely,
Peter Graichen
http:/home.neo.rr.com/n10pg/kitfox.htm
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of darinh
Sent: Wednesday, 06 September, 2006 16:08
Subject: Kitfox-List: LED Nav lights??
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "darinh" <gerns25@netscape.net>
I am looking at putting LED Navs in on my Series 7 to reduce the amp draw
from the alternator. Has anyone used these or know anything about them? I
had Whelen strobes and navs on my Model III (912UL) and with the com,
transponder, GPS, EIS, stobes, and navs, the 18 amp alternator could not
keep up. I would like to install the same instrumentation on my 7 and add
landing/taxi lights but unless I can decrease the amp draw from a couple of
these, it doesn't look like a viable option. Anyone know of a company that
is making the LED navs?...If so, what do you guys (and possibly gals)
recommend?
Thanks,
Darin Hawkes
Message 16
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Jabiru 2200 conversion |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt@jps.net>
I just changed my oil today, Michel, and just to be contrary, I
disconnected the lower oil cooler line and drained the cooler, too.
Don't know how much I got out, but it made me feel better to try. On
start-up, I cranked a bit with the mags off until I saw pressure.
Lynn
On Wednesday, September 6, 2006, at 02:30 AM, Michel Verheughe wrote:
>> From: Lynn Matteson [lynnmatt@jps.net]
>> p.s. Since I first filled my engine with oil, I have seen figures of
>> 2.3 US quarts , and 2.43 US quarts, so what's a guy to believe?
>
> Lynn, it could be with or without the oil cooler. I also have two
> figures in my manual, but in liters: 2 liters and 2.3 liters . But
> when changing oil, you can't empty the cooler so it is 2 liters I use.
>
> Cheers,
> Michel
>
>
> <pre><b><font size=2 color="#000000" face="courier new,courier">
>
> www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List</a>
> contribution</a>
>
> </b></font></pre>
Message 17
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Hi folks,
I have just installed the main gear and hooked up bled the brakes.
Piston in the left master cylinder has about 1/2" of free travel before
brake pressure is applied. Right side is very tight, it has less then
1/8" free travel before pressure is applied. Because there is virtually
no free travel I cant push the rudder pedal all the way forward before
the brake applies and the pressurized cylinder stops forward travel of
the pedal. It is not rod adjustment . I disconnected the cylinder from
the pedal and it is still tight. Also, disassembled the master
cylinder-looks ok inside.
Any ideas?
Eric
Message 18
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: master cylinder |
Eric, I had to tape the adjustment rod down lower.
Dee
Do not archive
Message 19
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: master cylinder |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Jose M. Toro" <jose_m_toro@yahoo.com>
Eric:
If the symmetry between the pedal and the master
cylinder is correct, you will be able to apply full
rudder either direction without automatically applying
pressure to the cylinder. This also imples that, even
if a master cylinder piston is stucked, you should
still be able to have full travel with both pedals.
Seems to me like there is something wrong with the
installation of both master cylinders. You will need
to change the position where the master cylinder
pivots in the pedals assembly attachment brackets.
You may need to redo those brackets.
If you check site www.matcomfg.com, there is a drawing
showing the right symmetry between the pedal and the
master cylinder.
Jose
--- Eric <iworonko@cox.net> wrote:
> Hi folks,
> I have just installed the main gear and hooked up
> bled the brakes. Piston in the left master cylinder
> has about 1/2" of free travel before brake pressure
> is applied. Right side is very tight, it has less
> then 1/8" free travel before pressure is applied.
> Because there is virtually no free travel I cant
> push the rudder pedal all the way forward before the
> brake applies and the pressurized cylinder stops
> forward travel of the pedal. It is not rod
> adjustment . I disconnected the cylinder from the
> pedal and it is still tight. Also, disassembled the
> master cylinder-looks ok inside.
> Any ideas?
> Eric
__________________________________________________
Message 20
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Name Check - Airplane type |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "neflyer48" <neflyer48@cableone.net>
Jerry Kohles
Norfolk Ne.
Model 3 912UL
Tail dragger
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt@sbcglobal.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 05, 2006 8:39 PM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Name Check - Airplane type
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt@sbcglobal.net>
>
> check below to see if you are on the list. I have had a couple of senior
> moments and am almost positive, I lost another R name somewhere. Also I
> don't have last names for the last three entries.
>
> Lowell
>
> Algate
> Gary
> IV-1200
>
> Ashman
> Eric
> CIV
>
> Baltrusaitis
> Ben
> 5
>
> Anderson
> John
> 5
>
> Bazzill
> Clint
> IV-1200S
>
> Begnaud
> Cliff
> 5
>
> Boling
> Ralph
> 5 vixen
>
> Cannon
> Mike
> II
>
> Clements
> Travis
> IV-1200
>
> Cozik
> Kevin
> 6
>
> Cravener
> Don
> IV-1200
>
> Crutchlow
> Mike
> II
>
> D'Archangel
> Dick
> C-IV
>
> Daughenbaugh
> Randy
> 5
>
> Doud
> Herbert
> IV-1200
>
> Eccles
> Steve
> 5
>
> Estapa
> David
> 5
>
> Fabian
> Jay
> IV-1200
>
> Fitt
> Lowell
> IV-1200
>
> Fitzgerald
> Mo
> 7A
>
> Gerace
> Greg
> II
>
> Goguen
> Nelson
> 5 Vixen
>
> Hastedt
> Margaret
> CIV
>
> Hefferen
> Rex
> III
>
> Higgins
> Florin
> IV-1200S
>
> Holliday
> Bob
> 5
>
> Horne
> Glenn
> II
>
> Hull
> Kirk
> CIV
>
> Huston
> Barry
> IV-1200
>
> Jones
> Kenneth
> 7
>
> Kerr
> John
> CIV
>
> Klerks
> Jim
> IV-1050
>
> Liebmann
> Ron
> II
>
> Lina
> Bruce
> V
>
> Logan
> Mike
> 5
>
> Loveys
> Noel
> III-A
>
> Magdic
> Steve
> III
>
> Martin
> Brad
> 5
>
> Matteson
> Lynn
>
>
> McConnell
> Roger
> 7
>
> Meneszes
> Marco
> II
>
> Morisse
> Deke
> 5
>
> Nichols
> Clem
> IV-1200
>
> Olsen
> Gary
> 7
>
> Osborn
> Tom
> III IV Wing
>
> Parker
> Jud
> 5
>
> Patterson
> Scott
> IV-1200
>
> Perry
> John
> II
>
> Persels
> Lyle
> IV-1200
>
> Puls
> Jeff
> CIV-1200
>
> Purdy
> Dwight
> II
>
> Rueb
> Duane
> 5
>
> Sather
> Shane
> Lt SQ
>
> Schieffer
> Cjuck
> IV-1200
>
> Schrader
> Kurt
>
>
> Shaw
> Rex
> IV-1200
>
> Shiple
> Fred
> 6
>
> Smythe
> Don
> IV-1200
>
> Thiessen
> Mic
> IV-1200S
>
> Toft
> Graeme
> IV-1200
>
> Toro
> Jose
> II
>
> Vader
> Tim
> CIV-1200
>
> Verheughe
> Michel
> III
>
> Wahlquist
> Dave
> III
>
> Wehner
> Clem
> IV-1050
>
> Wilson
> Steve
> II
>
> Wilyard
> Bill
> CIV-1200
>
> Young
> Dee
> II
>
>
> Mike
> IV-1200
>
>
> Eric
> IV-1200S
>
>
> David
> III
>
>
> --
>
>
Message 21
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: master cylinder |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: kurt schrader <smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
Check your right brake, or swap master cylinders and
replenish the fluid. See if it is the master or slave
cylinder.
To me, it sounds like the master. See if it actually
locks the right brake with such little travel, or is
it self limiting?
I agree with what you already heard. The cylinder
shouldn't limit the pedal travel in any case.
Kurt S.
--- Eric <iworonko@cox.net> wrote:
> Hi folks,
> I have just installed the main gear and hooked up
> bled the brakes. Piston in the left master cylinder
> has about 1/2" of free travel before brake pressure
> is applied. Right side is very tight, it has less
> then 1/8" free travel before pressure is applied.
> Because there is virtually no free travel I cant
> push the rudder pedal all the way forward before the
> brake applies and the pressurized cylinder stops
> forward travel of the pedal. It is not rod
> adjustment . I disconnected the cylinder from the
> pedal and it is still tight. Also, disassembled the
> master cylinder-looks ok inside.
> Any ideas?
> Eric
__________________________________________________
Message 22
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Jabiru 2200 conversion |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no>
On Sep 8, 2006, at 12:33 AM, Lynn Matteson wrote:
> I just changed my oil today, Michel, and just to be contrary, I
> disconnected the lower oil cooler line and drained the cooler, too.
Of course, it can be done, Lynn. But, if I remember correctly, the user
manual doesn't say that it should be done. I guess, when you change
oil, you always have a bit of the old one left. By disconnecting the
cooler, you certainly did a better job than me, my friend. I will do
the same as you at the next oil change.
Cheers,
Michel
do not archive
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|