---------------------------------------------------------- Kitfox-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Thu 09/07/06: 22 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 03:01 AM - Re: Wings Level ? (Ceashman@aol.com) 2. 03:23 AM - Re: wrong photo. (Guy Buchanan) 3. 03:26 AM - Re: Wings Level ? (Guy Buchanan) 4. 03:42 AM - Re: Instructions for Cargo Bay Kit - Series 5 (Guy Buchanan) 5. 04:23 AM - Fly In (MA Stanard) 6. 04:25 AM - Re: wrong photo. (Dave G.) 7. 04:29 AM - Re: wrong photo. (Dave G.) 8. 05:27 AM - Re: LED Nav lights?? (Lynn Matteson) 9. 05:27 AM - Re: Engine thrust lines, was: Wings Level ? (Bradley M Webb) 10. 05:52 AM - Re: Wings Level ? (Lynn Matteson) 11. 07:19 AM - Re: Instructions for Cargo Bay Kit - Series 5 (Dan Billingsley) 12. 07:46 AM - Re: Wings Level ? (kerrjohna@comcast.net) 13. 08:07 AM - Re: Wings Level ? (Jose M. Toro) 14. 10:20 AM - Re: LED nav lights (John) 15. 12:46 PM - Re: LED Nav lights?? (Peter Graichen) 16. 03:32 PM - Re: Jabiru 2200 conversion (Lynn Matteson) 17. 04:01 PM - master cylinder (Eric) 18. 06:06 PM - Re: master cylinder (Dee Young) 19. 06:44 PM - Re: master cylinder (Jose M. Toro) 20. 07:04 PM - Re: Name Check - Airplane type (neflyer48) 21. 08:06 PM - Re: master cylinder (kurt schrader) 22. 11:00 PM - Re: Jabiru 2200 conversion (Michel Verheughe) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 03:01:29 AM PST US From: Ceashman@aol.com Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Wings Level ? --From: Floran H. --I can give the rudder petal a quick push and cock the tailwheel so that it acts as a trim. --As I use right rudder pedal on take of it usually means that I have to kick the left rudder to --trim the airplane when I level off. I used fly a Cessna 180 that I had to do the same thing. Hi Floran. That sounds kind of logical, using the tail wheel as a trim tab. Notice you nose wheel guy,s, this is another advantage of having the steering wheel at back :) I am also thinking that an 8 inch wheel would be more beneficial to in flight trim than the smaller 6 inch. But then again, 8 inch = more drag. 6 inch looks nicer. Eric. ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 03:23:29 AM PST US From: Guy Buchanan Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: wrong photo. --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Guy Buchanan At 09:36 PM 9/6/2006, you wrote: > am surpised to see that the new inserts do not have >the "V" relief cut in each end. This "V" cut is to >reduce the sharp change in stiffness at the insert >ends, which creates stress points on the spar. I believe you cut those in yourself. You definitely want them. Guy Buchanan K-IV 1200 / 582-C / Warp / 100% done, thanks mostly to Bob Ducar. ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 03:26:07 AM PST US From: Guy Buchanan Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Wings Level ? --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Guy Buchanan At 09:02 PM 9/6/2006, you wrote: >If it isn't too complex a procedure, I might be willing to try. Horizontal offset isn't too difficult. First check your prop tracking. It should be within 1/16". If it is, then set a blade horizontal and measure from the tip to the something near the rudder pivot. (It doesn't matter what, as long as it's close to centerline and can be duplicated exactly on both sides.) Shift that blade to the other side and measure the same way. The prop offset angle is then: arctan ((distance measured one side - distance measured the other side) / prop diameter) This tells you nothing, of course, about where the prop thrust centerline crosses the aircraft centerline. If you have a laser level that will throw a vertical line you might be able to measure the offset at the prop hub and trig the crossing. You can do the same for the vertical offset, but it's harder since you must construct the horizontal centerline by leveling the airframe and using a level to find a measuring point offset to the front or rear. Or you can just pick a point on your airframe, measure the prop angle relative to that, and replicate it on other airframes. This assumes, of course, that the other airframes are identical; a dubious assumption for our aircraft. Guy Buchanan K-IV 1200 / 582-C / Warp / 100% done, thanks mostly to Bob Ducar. ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 03:42:08 AM PST US From: Guy Buchanan Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Instructions for Cargo Bay Kit - Series 5 --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Guy Buchanan At 05:50 PM 9/6/2006, you wrote: >Personally I would loose (actually I did) the baggage sack idea and stick >in a nice baggage compartment. Several of the guys here in the Pheonix >area have done this and it's a great mod. Here are some pictures of how I >did it. Dan, I could not tell from your pictures if you have something supporting the baggage floor beyond Adel clamps. Since the floor is above the control system I'm reminding Mark that it's very important that the floor be supporting by something that will never shift. In my case I supported the back of the floor with an aluminum angle "A" frame down to the transverse frame tubes where they meet the verticals. I supported the front by attaching the forward upper transverse member to the upper transverse seat support and then dropping verticals and diagonals to the baggage floor. When all was done I tested it by gingerly standing in the middle of the baggage floor. (I weigh 200 pounds. Remember 40 pounds times 6 g's is 240 pounds.) Yes, I saw you tested your's the same way. I'm glad. I was just concerned, with mine, that the Adel clamps would slide in time. By the way. I really like your gun and rod cases. I wish I had put in my baggage compartment before covering so I could have done the same. Although I'm not sure my CG would have allowed me to put anything back there heavier than a fly rod. Guy ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 04:23:30 AM PST US From: "MA Stanard" Subject: Kitfox-List: Fly In ATTENTION ALL TEXAS FOXERS If any kitfoxers would be interested in doing a fly-in for all Texas Foxers please email me and lets see if we can make it happen. Nothing fancy, Just a one day fly-in to get to meet everyone. I live in the beautiful hill country in Kerrville. It would be a great place to come for the weekend and meet all your fellow foxers out there. Send me an email if you are interested. Happy Flying, Michael Stanard ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 04:25:27 AM PST US From: "Dave G." Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: wrong photo. --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Dave G." > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: kurt schrader > > > I am surpised to see that the new inserts do not have > the "V" relief cut in each end. This "V" cut is to > reduce the sharp change in stiffness at the insert > ends, which creates stress points on the spar. > > Anyone else have the inserts without the relief "Vs"? > It is new to me. > They just came out of the crate, I'll get to that. ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 04:29:06 AM PST US From: "Dave G." Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: wrong photo. The old insert for one side is still good, but Kitfox recommended they not be reused. There is some scratching from being pushed out. With the thicker walls I don't think the old inserts will fit the new spars anyway. ----- Original Message ----- From: Guy Buchanan To: kitfox-list@matronics.com Sent: Wednesday, September 06, 2006 9:58 PM Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: wrong photo. At 03:49 PM 9/6/2006, you wrote: Here is a close up of the insert end on. do not archive Are the inserts still good? The one you show appears OK. Couldn't you re-use them? (The old holes don't matter.) Guy Buchanan K-IV 1200 / 582-C / Warp / 100% done, thanks mostly to Bob Ducar. ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 05:27:32 AM PST US Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: LED Nav lights?? From: Lynn Matteson --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Lynn Matteson Check with John McBean...I bought a set from him, and they work just fine. I don't recall the amp draw, but it is WAY low, These are combo strobes and Nav lights...separate switches of course. Lynn On Wednesday, September 6, 2006, at 04:07 PM, darinh wrote: > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "darinh" > > I am looking at putting LED Navs in on my Series 7 to reduce the amp > draw from the alternator. Has anyone used these or know anything > about them? I had Whelen strobes and navs on my Model III (912UL) and > with the com, transponder, GPS, EIS, stobes, and navs, the 18 amp > alternator could not keep up. I would like to install the same > instrumentation on my 7 and add landing/taxi lights but unless I can > decrease the amp draw from a couple of these, it doesn't look like a > viable option. Anyone know of a company that is making the LED > navs?...If so, what do you guys (and possibly gals) recommend? > > Thanks, > > Darin Hawkes > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=60023#60023 > > ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 05:27:32 AM PST US From: "Bradley M Webb" Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Engine thrust lines, was: Wings Level ? --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Bradley M Webb" I used a laser level, a cheapy ($25) from the Home Depot Aviation Dept. The bubble on it was wrong, but I calibrated it using a building level, and marked new lines on the bubble with a Sharpie. Here's what I did. Level the fuselage using the normal points. I elevated the tail with sawhorses, and used wood shims to get it level. I deflated the tires to level it side-to-side. I then hung two plumb-bobs on the motor, one from the front prop hub, and one from the rear of the motor (crank pulley on my Geo). I then placed the laser level on the floor out in front of the plane about 4 feet, and put the light so that it gave a line on the floor, crossed the bolt at the tailwheel, up through the bottom motor mount bolt, and through the prop hub. I hung a third plumb-bob from the tail, just to verify the laser vertical. This took some time, but it wasn't hard. Now, I put masking tape on the floor, and using a straight edge, I drew a line under the motor on the tape at the laser line. Using trig, I determined that the rear of the motor needed to be .78 inches to the left of center, to place the prop hub dead center of the cowl (airframe CL), and give me 2 degrees offset (right thrust). Go here: http://www.gsal.org/tools/offset_calc.htm . This tool is for model airplanes, but its basic trig, and works for anything. Move the motor until the front plump line is dead center on the tape, and/or laser beam is center on the hub, and the rear line is .78 to the left on the tape. I then tacked up my mount tubing, re-checking the plumb lines about 1000x. For the down thrust, I used a cheap angle tool I bought at Harbor Freight, and placed it on a motor surface I found to be 90 degrees to the prop hub. This happened to be my valve cover, but I could have used the prop hub itself, as the tool has a magnet on it to hold it there. For the vertical position, I used the laser strapped to my toolbox in front of the plane, and leveled it horizontally. I had drawn a line on my firewall where I needed the hub to be in relation to the cowl. When the laser is level and matches the firewall line, the light is projected on the prop hub, and I moved the motor up and down 'til satisfied. I then re-checked everything another 1000x, and welded. After I was done, I am totally confident my prop hub is where I wanted it. This should work on any motor. I'm not sure it's where Dan Denney intended it to be, but that's the info I don't have, and couldn't get. If it's wrong from flight tests, I'll shim the motor 'til its right. Hope that helps, Bradley -----Original Message----- From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lowell Fitt Sent: Thursday, September 07, 2006 12:02 AM Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Wings Level ? --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Lowell Fitt" Bradley, At the risk of sounding like dummy, I haven't a clue how to determine thrust offset measurements. It would seem to me that it would require some sophisticated way of accurately determining the long axis of the airframe and the thrust line of the engine - perp. to the prop flange, I suppose, and calculating an angle. All I did was add washers to compensate for a warped engine mount per the manual. I will report on where the washers are if that is helpful, but my guess is that if the engineers put thrust offset into the mount, it would be buried there somewhere in the design. If it isn't too complex a procedure, I might be willing to try. Lowell ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bradley M Webb" Sent: Wednesday, September 06, 2006 4:38 PM Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Wings Level ? > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Bradley M Webb" > > Lowell, > If you could, I'd be very interested in your thrust offset measurements. I > put in 2 degrees down and 2 degrees right on my new mount, going by the > old > standard, but I couldn't find any reference to what it should be for the > fox. > > Bradley > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com > [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lowell Fitt > Sent: Wednesday, September 06, 2006 6:48 PM > To: kitfox-list@matronics.com > Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Wings Level ? > > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Lowell Fitt" > > Interesting thought. I put washers under the engine mount to shim it a > bit > when building per the post weld distortion. I will check that to see if > the > > locations are likely to give the result I have. > > Lowell > do not archive > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Bob Unternaehrer" > To: > Sent: Wednesday, September 06, 2006 4:45 AM > Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Wings Level ? > > >> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Bob Unternaehrer" >> >> >> You MAY find that different motor torque is the culprit. You can either >> use >> rudder trim or shim for motor offset and probably help. Bob UP. >> >> ----- Original Message ----- >> From: "Lowell Fitt" >> To: >> Sent: Tuesday, September 05, 2006 8:51 PM >> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Wings Level ? >> >> >>> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Lowell Fitt" >>> >>> I tend to agree with Randy on this one. On a calm gradual descent I can >> fly >>> hands off for long periods. I mention this, because it gives me reason >>> to >>> believe my wings are trimmed correctly, but at cruise, I need a tad of >> right >>> rudder to maintain heading. While coming home from our last cross >> country, >>> We flew two legs of about 3 hours each and during that time, I worked on >> my >>> coodinated flight with a little right rudder and trying to keep the ball >>> centered and watching the wingtips relative to the horizon. Either I am >>> losing it as a pilot or just losing it, but I have a real challenge >>> trying >>> to fly with the wings level. I am strongly motivated to do something >>> with >>> the rudder trim and see if that is my problem. >>> >>> When we fly the highways or the rivers, no problemo, as we are in turns >>> almost continuously, but a GPS heading for hours at a time - I need some >>> work. >>> >>> Lowell >>> ----- Original Message ----- >>> From: "Randy Daughenbaugh" >>> To: >>> Sent: Tuesday, September 05, 2006 3:01 PM >>> Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Wings Level ? >>> >>> >>> > Rex, >>> > >>> > I am still skeptical. When on the ground, engine off - just sitting >>> > there - >>> > have a friend lift one wing tip 3.5 inches. This is easy to do. Note >> the >>> > difference. Now consider the same difference in the air with very >>> > light >>> > turbulence. >>> > >>> > >>> > >>> > Your second correction: I stand corrected. What I should have said >>> > is >>> > how >>> > coordinated I am flying. But where it applies, straight line cruise, >> they >>> > are the same thing. >>> > >>> > >>> > >>> > Randy >>> > >>> > . >>> > >>> > >>> > >>> > _____ >>> > >>> > From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com >>> > [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rex Shaw >>> > Sent: Tuesday, September 05, 2006 11:08 AM >>> > To: kitfox-list@matronics.com >>> > Subject: Kitfox-List: Wings Level ? >>> > >>> > >>> > >>> > Are there really Fox drivers out there that are >>> > so good that they can tell if one wing tip is 7" higher than the >>> > other? >>> > With the plane on a level surface (hangar floor?) this is easy too >>> > determine, but try it out on a sorta level field. You need a good >>> > level >>> > to >>> > tell. >>> > >>> > >>> > >>> > I would think one can easilly detect 7'' out of level in flight by >> looking >>> > out under one wing then the other to the horizon. My instructor taught >> me >>> > this way back. >>> > >>> > When I fly, I just use the ball for an immediate indication of how >>> > level >> I >>> > have the wings. >>> > >>> > >>> > >>> > The ball can be centred without being level in flight. It may act as a >>> > level >>> > on the groung and stationary. Take for example if you are making a >>> > co-ordinated turn. The ball is in the centre but the wings aren't >>> > level. >>> > >>> > >>> > Rex. >>> > >>> > >>> > >>> > >>> > >>> >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> >> >> > > > ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ Time: 05:52:45 AM PST US Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Wings Level ? From: Lynn Matteson --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Lynn Matteson I'm also thinking about a trim fin for the rudder, Lowell. I'd like a cabin-adjustable. The biggest problem is I don't want to have to deal with stripping the covering and going in there with a servo, etc. I'm going to think more about it after I get my Sport Pilot Cert. and I get to actually GO somewhere...then when my right leg gets oversize, I'll put that project higher on the priority list. : ) Lynn On Wednesday, September 6, 2006, at 06:02 PM, Lowell Fitt wrote: > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Lowell Fitt" > > I do have a bit of dihedral. I am goung to ry to do something with > the rudder. I am in deep thought about it, trying to avoid the tab, > but that eventualy will be the likely solution. > > Lowell ________________________________ Message 11 ____________________________________ Time: 07:19:10 AM PST US From: Dan Billingsley Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Instructions for Cargo Bay Kit - Series 5 Hey Guy, I could not tell from your pictures if you have something supporting the baggage floor beyond Adel clamps The angle is primarially supported with adel clamps, however, I do have rivets tied into the top horizontal tube at the back (holding the verticals) and I am bolted into the front(behind the seats). I also was concerned about the adel clamps holding and Murle Williams said if I used the correct clamps for each vertical, I would have no problem. His reference was directed to Mike Gibbs KF-IV which crashed and totaled coming in and pancaked.(jump in here Mike to add anything) His baggage compartment only had adel clamps and did not move. That was very good proof for me. However, If you have the welder and skills, it certainly wouldn't hurt to weld in tabs to bolt to...this is what Steve Kellandar did. All insurance is a good thing when it comes to safety. By the way. I really like your gun and rod cases. I wish I had put in my baggage compartment before covering so I could have done the same. Although I'm not sure my CG would have allowed me to put anything back there heavier than a fly rod. Others before me have put shotguns down the center where I have mine tied. I'm going to watch that close when it comes to weight and balance hoping it will come out ok. May need to keep it to a lightweight .410 :>) Dan Guy Buchanan wrote: --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Guy Buchanan At 05:50 PM 9/6/2006, you wrote: >Personally I would loose (actually I did) the baggage sack idea and stick >in a nice baggage compartment. Several of the guys here in the Pheonix >area have done this and it's a great mod. Here are some pictures of how I >did it. Dan, I could not tell from your pictures if you have something supporting the baggage floor beyond Adel clamps. Since the floor is above the control system I'm reminding Mark that it's very important that the floor be supporting by something that will never shift. In my case I supported the back of the floor with an aluminum angle "A" frame down to the transverse frame tubes where they meet the verticals. I supported the front by attaching the forward upper transverse member to the upper transverse seat support and then dropping verticals and diagonals to the baggage floor. When all was done I tested it by gingerly standing in the middle of the baggage floor. (I weigh 200 pounds. Remember 40 pounds times 6 g's is 240 pounds.) Yes, I saw you tested your's the same way. I'm glad. I was just concerned, with mine, that the Adel clamps would slide in time. By the way. I really like your gun and rod cases. I wish I had put in my baggage compartment before covering so I could have done the same. Although I'm not sure my CG would have allowed me to put anything back there heavier than a fly rod. Guy ________________________________ Message 12 ____________________________________ Time: 07:46:35 AM PST US From: kerrjohna@comcast.net Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Wings Level ? Lowell, early on I had experimented with the notion of progressively shortening the right rudder pedal spring until I had it where it was most comfortable. It can be done by using safety wire to close up multiple loops of the spring incrimentally. In the end I went with the tab because it was less hassle to adjust. John Kerr -------------- Original message -------------- From: "Lowell Fitt" > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Lowell Fitt" > > I do have a bit of dihedral. I am goung to ry to do something with the > rudder. I am in deep thought about it, trying to avoid the tab, but that > eventualy will be the likely solution. > > Lowell > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Guy Buchanan" > To: > Sent: Tuesday, September 05, 2006 8:27 PM > Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Wings Level ? > > > > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Guy Buchanan > > > > At 06:51 PM 9/5/2006, you wrote: > >>Either I am > >>losing it as a pilot or just losing it, but I have a real challenge trying > >>to fly with the wings level. I am strongly motivated to do something with > >>the rudder trim and see if that is my problem. > > > > If I recall correctly, your plane doesn't have a lot of dihedral. If you > > want to fly hands-off, pump up the dihedral and it will get rock steady. > > > > > > Guy Buchanan > > K-IV 1200 / 582-C / Warp / 100% done, thanks mostly to Bob Ducar. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > >
Lowell, early on I had experimented with the notion of progressively shortening the right rudder pedal spring until I had it where it was most comfortable. It can be done by using safety wire to close up multiple loops of the spring incrimentally.
 
In the end I went with the tab because it was less hassle to adjust.
 
John Kerr
 
-------------- Original message --------------
From: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt@sbcglobal.net>

> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Lowell Fitt"
>
> I do have a bit of dihedral. I am goung to ry to do something with the
> rudder. I am in deep thought about it, trying to avoid the tab, but that
> eventualy will be the likely solution.
>
> Lowell
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Guy Buchanan"
> To:
> Sent: Tuesday, September 05, 2006 8:27 PM
> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Wings Level ?
>
>
> > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Guy Buchanan
> >
> > At 06:51 PM 9/5/2006, you wrote:
> >>Either I am
> >>losing it as a pilot or just losing it, but I w.matr
________________________________ Message 13 ____________________________________ Time: 08:07:21 AM PST US From: "Jose M. Toro" Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Wings Level ? --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Jose M. Toro" Lynn: An option is to use different length rudder cables. This implies that the rudder will be slightly to the right when the rudder pedals are in the neutral position. You will still need to apply pressure on the right pedal, but the feet will be aproximately aligned (your body will be symetrically aligned with the seat). I have seen this on Challengers, and intend to do it on my new plane. Jos --- Lynn Matteson wrote: > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Lynn Matteson > > > I'm also thinking about a trim fin for the rudder, > Lowell. I'd like a > cabin-adjustable. The biggest problem is I don't > want to have to deal > with stripping the covering and going in there with > a servo, etc. I'm > going to think more about it after I get my Sport > Pilot Cert. and I get > to actually GO somewhere...then when my right leg > gets oversize, I'll > put that project higher on the priority list. : ) > > Lynn > On Wednesday, September 6, 2006, at 06:02 PM, > Lowell Fitt wrote: > > > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Lowell Fitt" > > > > > I do have a bit of dihedral. I am goung to ry to > do something with > > the rudder. I am in deep thought about it, trying > to avoid the tab, > > but that eventualy will be the likely solution. > > > > Lowell > > > > browse > Subscriptions page, > FAQ, > http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List > > Web Forums! > > > Admin. > > > > > __________________________________________________ ________________________________ Message 14 ____________________________________ Time: 10:20:50 AM PST US From: "John" Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: LED nav lights Here are some I looked up in the past: http://www.creativair.com/lights-kits-c-22.html and: http://www.killacycle.com/Lights.htm Regards, John Stoner KF III, 582 Alaska ________________________________ Message 15 ____________________________________ Time: 12:46:05 PM PST US From: "Peter Graichen" Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: LED Nav lights?? --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Peter Graichen" Hello Darin: I saw a display at last Oshkosh of a wingtip LED Position/strobe setup and promptly purchased a set. They arrived a few days later and I installed them, replacing my Whelen A600-PG-PR. They look better and the LEDs are infinitely brighter. I love 'em. They are called Skybright Nightlight Strobe/LED System made by Rollison Airplane Co. (Rob Rollison), Bloomfield IN 47424 (812-384-4972), www.airplanegear.com If you talk to Rob Rollison please be sure to say hello for me. Sincerely, Peter Graichen http:/home.neo.rr.com/n10pg/kitfox.htm -----Original Message----- From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of darinh Sent: Wednesday, 06 September, 2006 16:08 Subject: Kitfox-List: LED Nav lights?? --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "darinh" I am looking at putting LED Navs in on my Series 7 to reduce the amp draw from the alternator. Has anyone used these or know anything about them? I had Whelen strobes and navs on my Model III (912UL) and with the com, transponder, GPS, EIS, stobes, and navs, the 18 amp alternator could not keep up. I would like to install the same instrumentation on my 7 and add landing/taxi lights but unless I can decrease the amp draw from a couple of these, it doesn't look like a viable option. Anyone know of a company that is making the LED navs?...If so, what do you guys (and possibly gals) recommend? Thanks, Darin Hawkes ________________________________ Message 16 ____________________________________ Time: 03:32:03 PM PST US Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Jabiru 2200 conversion From: Lynn Matteson --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Lynn Matteson I just changed my oil today, Michel, and just to be contrary, I disconnected the lower oil cooler line and drained the cooler, too. Don't know how much I got out, but it made me feel better to try. On start-up, I cranked a bit with the mags off until I saw pressure. Lynn On Wednesday, September 6, 2006, at 02:30 AM, Michel Verheughe wrote: >> From: Lynn Matteson [lynnmatt@jps.net] >> p.s. Since I first filled my engine with oil, I have seen figures of >> 2.3 US quarts , and 2.43 US quarts, so what's a guy to believe? > > Lynn, it could be with or without the oil cooler. I also have two > figures in my manual, but in liters: 2 liters and 2.3 liters . But > when changing oil, you can't empty the cooler so it is 2 liters I use. > > Cheers, > Michel > > > 

>
> www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List
> contribution
>
>
________________________________ Message 17 ____________________________________ Time: 04:01:36 PM PST US From: "Eric" Subject: Kitfox-List: master cylinder Hi folks, I have just installed the main gear and hooked up bled the brakes. Piston in the left master cylinder has about 1/2" of free travel before brake pressure is applied. Right side is very tight, it has less then 1/8" free travel before pressure is applied. Because there is virtually no free travel I cant push the rudder pedal all the way forward before the brake applies and the pressurized cylinder stops forward travel of the pedal. It is not rod adjustment . I disconnected the cylinder from the pedal and it is still tight. Also, disassembled the master cylinder-looks ok inside. Any ideas? Eric ________________________________ Message 18 ____________________________________ Time: 06:06:01 PM PST US From: "Dee Young" Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: master cylinder Eric, I had to tape the adjustment rod down lower. Dee Do not archive ________________________________ Message 19 ____________________________________ Time: 06:44:44 PM PST US From: "Jose M. Toro" Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: master cylinder --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Jose M. Toro" Eric: If the symmetry between the pedal and the master cylinder is correct, you will be able to apply full rudder either direction without automatically applying pressure to the cylinder. This also imples that, even if a master cylinder piston is stucked, you should still be able to have full travel with both pedals. Seems to me like there is something wrong with the installation of both master cylinders. You will need to change the position where the master cylinder pivots in the pedals assembly attachment brackets. You may need to redo those brackets. If you check site www.matcomfg.com, there is a drawing showing the right symmetry between the pedal and the master cylinder. Jose --- Eric wrote: > Hi folks, > I have just installed the main gear and hooked up > bled the brakes. Piston in the left master cylinder > has about 1/2" of free travel before brake pressure > is applied. Right side is very tight, it has less > then 1/8" free travel before pressure is applied. > Because there is virtually no free travel I cant > push the rudder pedal all the way forward before the > brake applies and the pressurized cylinder stops > forward travel of the pedal. It is not rod > adjustment . I disconnected the cylinder from the > pedal and it is still tight. Also, disassembled the > master cylinder-looks ok inside. > Any ideas? > Eric __________________________________________________ ________________________________ Message 20 ____________________________________ Time: 07:04:53 PM PST US From: "neflyer48" Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Name Check - Airplane type --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "neflyer48" Jerry Kohles Norfolk Ne. Model 3 912UL Tail dragger ----- Original Message ----- From: "Lowell Fitt" Sent: Tuesday, September 05, 2006 8:39 PM Subject: Kitfox-List: Name Check - Airplane type > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Lowell Fitt" > > check below to see if you are on the list. I have had a couple of senior > moments and am almost positive, I lost another R name somewhere. Also I > don't have last names for the last three entries. > > Lowell > > Algate > Gary > IV-1200 > > Ashman > Eric > CIV > > Baltrusaitis > Ben > 5 > > Anderson > John > 5 > > Bazzill > Clint > IV-1200S > > Begnaud > Cliff > 5 > > Boling > Ralph > 5 vixen > > Cannon > Mike > II > > Clements > Travis > IV-1200 > > Cozik > Kevin > 6 > > Cravener > Don > IV-1200 > > Crutchlow > Mike > II > > D'Archangel > Dick > C-IV > > Daughenbaugh > Randy > 5 > > Doud > Herbert > IV-1200 > > Eccles > Steve > 5 > > Estapa > David > 5 > > Fabian > Jay > IV-1200 > > Fitt > Lowell > IV-1200 > > Fitzgerald > Mo > 7A > > Gerace > Greg > II > > Goguen > Nelson > 5 Vixen > > Hastedt > Margaret > CIV > > Hefferen > Rex > III > > Higgins > Florin > IV-1200S > > Holliday > Bob > 5 > > Horne > Glenn > II > > Hull > Kirk > CIV > > Huston > Barry > IV-1200 > > Jones > Kenneth > 7 > > Kerr > John > CIV > > Klerks > Jim > IV-1050 > > Liebmann > Ron > II > > Lina > Bruce > V > > Logan > Mike > 5 > > Loveys > Noel > III-A > > Magdic > Steve > III > > Martin > Brad > 5 > > Matteson > Lynn > > > McConnell > Roger > 7 > > Meneszes > Marco > II > > Morisse > Deke > 5 > > Nichols > Clem > IV-1200 > > Olsen > Gary > 7 > > Osborn > Tom > III IV Wing > > Parker > Jud > 5 > > Patterson > Scott > IV-1200 > > Perry > John > II > > Persels > Lyle > IV-1200 > > Puls > Jeff > CIV-1200 > > Purdy > Dwight > II > > Rueb > Duane > 5 > > Sather > Shane > Lt SQ > > Schieffer > Cjuck > IV-1200 > > Schrader > Kurt > > > Shaw > Rex > IV-1200 > > Shiple > Fred > 6 > > Smythe > Don > IV-1200 > > Thiessen > Mic > IV-1200S > > Toft > Graeme > IV-1200 > > Toro > Jose > II > > Vader > Tim > CIV-1200 > > Verheughe > Michel > III > > Wahlquist > Dave > III > > Wehner > Clem > IV-1050 > > Wilson > Steve > II > > Wilyard > Bill > CIV-1200 > > Young > Dee > II > > > Mike > IV-1200 > > > Eric > IV-1200S > > > David > III > > > -- > > ________________________________ Message 21 ____________________________________ Time: 08:06:33 PM PST US From: kurt schrader Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: master cylinder --> Kitfox-List message posted by: kurt schrader Check your right brake, or swap master cylinders and replenish the fluid. See if it is the master or slave cylinder. To me, it sounds like the master. See if it actually locks the right brake with such little travel, or is it self limiting? I agree with what you already heard. The cylinder shouldn't limit the pedal travel in any case. Kurt S. --- Eric wrote: > Hi folks, > I have just installed the main gear and hooked up > bled the brakes. Piston in the left master cylinder > has about 1/2" of free travel before brake pressure > is applied. Right side is very tight, it has less > then 1/8" free travel before pressure is applied. > Because there is virtually no free travel I cant > push the rudder pedal all the way forward before the > brake applies and the pressurized cylinder stops > forward travel of the pedal. It is not rod > adjustment . I disconnected the cylinder from the > pedal and it is still tight. Also, disassembled the > master cylinder-looks ok inside. > Any ideas? > Eric __________________________________________________ ________________________________ Message 22 ____________________________________ Time: 11:00:47 PM PST US From: Michel Verheughe Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Jabiru 2200 conversion --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe On Sep 8, 2006, at 12:33 AM, Lynn Matteson wrote: > I just changed my oil today, Michel, and just to be contrary, I > disconnected the lower oil cooler line and drained the cooler, too. Of course, it can be done, Lynn. But, if I remember correctly, the user manual doesn't say that it should be done. I guess, when you change oil, you always have a bit of the old one left. By disconnecting the cooler, you certainly did a better job than me, my friend. I will do the same as you at the next oil change. Cheers, Michel do not archive