Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:19 AM - Gas Lift struts (parahawk)
2. 12:22 AM - Undercarriage Height (John Anderson)
3. 03:03 AM - Re: Undercarriage - Bungee nico press floate (Dave)
4. 03:03 AM - Re: Undercarriage - Bungee nico press (Dave)
5. 05:23 AM - Re: Gas Lift struts (Larry Martin)
6. 05:57 AM - : Gas Lift struts (Dave)
7. 05:57 AM - EDIT : Gas Lift struts (Dave)
8. 06:17 AM - Re: Gas Lift struts (Michel Verheughe)
9. 06:24 AM - Re:[Off topic] Two Kitfoxes (Michel Verheughe)
10. 06:50 AM - Polyethylene adhesive (HMDOUD)
11. 07:25 AM - Broken Exhaust Spring (John Banes)
12. 07:47 AM - Re: Broken Exhaust Spring (Lyle Persels)
13. 08:01 AM - Re: Broken Exhaust Spring (Jimmie Blackwell)
14. 08:12 AM - Re: Gas Lift struts (Jimmie Blackwell)
15. 09:50 AM - Re: Gas Lift struts (Glenn Horne)
16. 10:10 AM - Re: Gas Lift struts (Don Pearsall)
17. 11:47 AM - Re: Off Topic Old issues of Kitplanes (Brent E Bidus)
18. 03:51 PM - Oil injection problems (HMDOUD)
19. 05:10 PM - Series 7 butt rib question? (darinh)
20. 05:21 PM - Re: Oil injection problems (Dave)
21. 05:28 PM - Re: Oil injection problems (Guy Buchanan)
22. 05:29 PM - Re: Off Topic Old issues of Kitplanes (Ed Akerstrom)
23. 05:39 PM - Exhaust Springs (jeff puls)
24. 06:11 PM - Re: Series 7 butt rib question? (jimcarriere)
25. 06:12 PM - Re: Series 7 butt rib question? (jimcarriere)
26. 06:25 PM - Re: Series 7 butt rib question? (darinh)
27. 06:38 PM - Radio Control? (Rexster)
28. 06:41 PM - Re: Series 7 butt rib question? (jimcarriere)
29. 07:10 PM - Re: Radio Control? (KFN102LG@aol.com)
30. 07:16 PM - Re: Series 7 butt rib question? (darinh)
31. 07:40 PM - Re: Series 7 butt rib question? (jimcarriere)
32. 08:11 PM - Re: Series 7 butt rib question? (Dave and Diane)
Message 1
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "parahawk" <alfi98596@yahoo.com>
Can anybody tell me what kind of Lift struts would fit the Kitfox IV doors. Mine
came without and it's rather anoying not being able to keep the doors open.
The obvious place to look for them would be the new Kitfox or Sportplanes LLC,
but unfortunately my e-mail requests to 3 different addresses have not been
answered. So maybe there is an easier solution from an aftermarket manufacturer.
Thanks
--------
Flying is the highest form of life on earth.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=63529#63529
Message 2
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| Subject: | Undercarriage Height |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "John Anderson" <janderson412@hotmail.com>
I didn't know there was a difference in height with age. Does anyone know
the two height dimensions?
Re the pros n cons of tube and bungee, it's like any argument between the
old and new. But then that's the thing about us humans, I bet some stood
back and joked when the first wheel was rolled out....not sure that there's
still folk that think it (the wheel) was such a good invention as many
(mainly bureaucrats and rule makers) seem hell bent on making it square
again.. J
From: "fox5flyer" <fox5flyer@i-star.com>
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Undercarriage
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "fox5flyer" <fox5flyer@i-star.com>
With all due respect to those who have voiced their input on this
subject, I'd just like to add my two bits (which is all that it's
worth) to this. This spring gear/tube gear thread has been off and
on for as long as I can remember on this list and I seriously doubt
that there will ever be a consensus as to which is better.
In my opinion, having had both, it's a trade off. Currently I have
the spring gear, but only because it came with the kit. The spring
gear is significantly heavier. Mine, with all hardware, wheels,
tires, brake calipers was almost exactly 75lbs. I've seen people go
to great lengths to save just a few grams of weight on various things
to keep the weight down, yet add a bunch more "pounds" and $$$$ to
add the spring gear. I've never felt my S5 with spring gear was
easier to handle than my old Model II with tube gear was. Both
tracked straight and handled cross winds just fine. Where the big
difference was (other than weight) was when I'd misjudge my full
stall landing and drop it in from a few feet up. The tube gear would
really bounce where the spring gear tends to just soak it up
smoothly. That's about the only difference I've ever been able to
note. I have the "tall" spring gear that was produced on the early
S5s. The gear legs are longer and skinnier than the later models
were.
If you feel your Fox is squirrely then, in my opinion, you need to
focus more on your gear alignment than things like tire pressure,
bungies, or the type of gear you have. A little toe-in can cause a
good handling airplane to be a handful.
So, I guess one just considers priorities, dollars, weight, and the
experiences of others to make a decision on it. Oh, there's also the
factor of bungie replacement every couple years, but I never felt it
was a big deal. I always made my own and the install didn't take
very long.
Regards,
Deke
WebMail Express+ - http://www.i-star.com Internet Access from $7.95
_________________________________________________________________
Need more speed? Get Xtra Broadband @
http://jetstream.xtra.co.nz/chm/0,,202853-1000,00.html
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Undercarriage - Bungee nico press floate |
Floats are Aerocets and off for winter now but should be back on in May.
----- Original Message -----
From: Malcolmbru@aol.com
To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, September 23, 2006 9:09 PM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Undercarriage - Bungee nico press floate
what kind of floats do you have how often do you change them? kf2
michigan kit foxer mal
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Undercarriage - Bungee nico press |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Dave" <dave@cfisher.com>
Deke , Thanks -- Safety wire I might end up with.
Dave
----- Original Message -----
From: "fox5flyer" <fox5flyer@i-star.com>
Sent: Saturday, September 23, 2006 10:52 PM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Undercarriage - Bungee nico press
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "fox5flyer" <fox5flyer@i-star.com>
>
> I just used aircraft spruce 3/8" bungie and made the loops by
> wrapping about a dozen wraps of .032 safety wire around them. Works
> fine and doesn't take up much room.
> Deke
>
> ---- Original Message ----
> From: dave@cfisher.com
> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Undercarriage - Bungee nico press
> Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2006 20:31:44 -0400
>
>>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Dave" <dave@cfisher.com>
>>
>>Deke, Excelent info there on the gear conmparisons.
>>
>>I saw you mentioned about bungees replacement. Mine have over 350
>>hours on
>>them now and I am going to make some new ones soon. The Crimps on
>>mine are
>>very thick alum.
>>What have you used for a nico style fitting? I am thinking of using
>>a
>>piece of 4130 and making a jig to crimp it with. . Those large
>>alum ones
>>are thick and clumsy to feed back through the opening on bottom when
>>busting
>>my knuckles after the floats come off and gear goes back on. Mine
>>are
>>showing some wear now . I have already in stock the 3/8s cord
>>which is
>>MIL SPEC stuff.
>>
>>
>>Dave
>>
>>
>>----- Original Message -----
>>From: "fox5flyer" <fox5flyer@i-star.com>
>>To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
>>Sent: Saturday, September 23, 2006 8:32 AM
>>Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Undercarriage
>>
>>
>>> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "fox5flyer"
>><fox5flyer@i-star.com>
>>>
>>>
>>> With all due respect to those who have voiced their input on this
>>> subject, I'd just like to add my two bits (which is all that it's
>>> worth) to this. This spring gear/tube gear thread has been off and
>>> on for as long as I can remember on this list and I seriously doubt
>>> that there will ever be a consensus as to which is better.
>>> In my opinion, having had both, it's a trade off. Currently I have
>>> the spring gear, but only because it came with the kit. The spring
>>> gear is significantly heavier. Mine, with all hardware, wheels,
>>> tires, brake calipers was almost exactly 75lbs. I've seen people
>>go
>>> to great lengths to save just a few grams of weight on various
>>things
>>> to keep the weight down, yet add a bunch more "pounds" and $$$$ to
>>> add the spring gear. I've never felt my S5 with spring gear was
>>> easier to handle than my old Model II with tube gear was. Both
>>> tracked straight and handled cross winds just fine. Where the big
>>> difference was (other than weight) was when I'd misjudge my full
>>> stall landing and drop it in from a few feet up. The tube gear
>>would
>>> really bounce where the spring gear tends to just soak it up
>>> smoothly. That's about the only difference I've ever been able to
>>> note. I have the "tall" spring gear that was produced on the early
>>> S5s. The gear legs are longer and skinnier than the later models
>>> were.
>>> If you feel your Fox is squirrely then, in my opinion, you need to
>>> focus more on your gear alignment than things like tire pressure,
>>> bungies, or the type of gear you have. A little toe-in can cause a
>>> good handling airplane to be a handful.
>>> So, I guess one just considers priorities, dollars, weight, and the
>>> experiences of others to make a decision on it. Oh, there's also
>>the
>>> factor of bungie replacement every couple years, but I never felt
>>it
>>> was a big deal. I always made my own and the install didn't take
>>> very long.
>>> Regards,
>>> Deke
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> WebMail Express+ - http://www.i-star.com Internet Access from $7.95
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>
>
> WebMail Express+ - http://www.i-star.com Internet Access from $7.95
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Gas Lift struts |
John,
Take the old one to any auto parts store. They'll have a catalog with
the various measurements and ends on them. I had mine ordered that way,
and as I recall, I may of had to do some slight modification on one end.
Larry
Message 6
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| Subject: | : Gas Lift struts |
http://www.guden.com/dampers.asp
----- Original Message -----
From: Larry Martin
To: alfi98596@yahoo.com
Sent: Sunday, September 24, 2006 8:22 AM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: Gas Lift struts
John,
Take the old one to any auto parts store. They'll have a catalog
with the various measurements and ends on them. I had mine ordered that
way, and as I recall, I may of had to do some slight modification on one
end.
Larry
Message 7
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| Subject: | EDIT : Gas Lift struts |
Sorry I should have gone one more step
http://www.guden.com/display-GSD.asp
----- Original Message -----
From: Larry Martin
To: alfi98596@yahoo.com
Sent: Sunday, September 24, 2006 8:22 AM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: Gas Lift struts
John,
Take the old one to any auto parts store. They'll have a catalog
with the various measurements and ends on them. I had mine ordered that
way, and as I recall, I may of had to do some slight modification on one
end.
Larry
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Gas Lift struts |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no>
On Sep 24, 2006, at 9:18 AM, parahawk wrote:
> Can anybody tell me what kind of Lift struts would fit the Kitfox IV
> doors.
This is what Lowell wrote to me:
> the original door struts can be obtained from
http://www.suspa-inc.com/
> The 50 lb struts are the C16-12104
> I think for the lighter doors the C16-1088 was the original.
I should also change one of them but ... haven't had time yet.
Cheers,
Michel
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re:[Off topic] Two Kitfoxes |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no>
On Sep 23, 2006, at 11:52 PM, Ben Baltrusaitis wrote:
> I didn't see Svein on the Kitfox Frappr Map.
No, he isn't yet. I'll ask him to do that, Ben.
> Also, for the other Kitfoxers on the list, there is a web site for the
> Scandinavian Kitfox owners:
> http://www.scandinavian-kitfoxes.se
Yes, I once asked Lars-Gran, the webmaster of the site, to put the
members on the Kitfox Frappr but apparently he didn't. As you can see
from the site, there are quite a few Kitfoxes in Scandinavia. We were
once talking about a Kitfox fly-in. I hope it will come one day.
Cheers,
Michel
do not archive
Message 10
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| Subject: | Polyethylene adhesive |
Listers......For anyone looking for the polyethelene/polypropylene
adhesive on the Granger website....
My typo error!!! The 3M adhesive number is DP-8005 and not 8500.
I just tried the Granger site and it comes right up as 3M Scotch-Weld,
Acrylic structural plastic adhesive DP-8005, translucent.
Picked my tube yesterday, for $20. It's a 2 part adhesive, with a 10:1
mixture ratio. Comes in a 2 tube, cartridge, that pre-mixes the proper
ratio. There's a applicatior tip and that can be purchased for precise
application and a syringe that the cartidge its into, but I didn't buy
them. Figured I could manage a one time application without the
expensive accessories.
The product has a 3 minute worktime, so it looks like you've got to be
nimble.
Sorry for the error.
Herb
Message 11
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| Subject: | Broken Exhaust Spring |
One of the exhaust system springs failed after 230 hours. Does anyone know
of a source for these springs? This one is about 5/8" in diameter and 2.25"
unexpanded.
S6 912S
Thanks, John
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Broken Exhaust Spring |
John McBean has them
Lyle
On 09 24, 06, at 9:24 AM, John Banes wrote:
> One of the exhaust system springs failed after 230 hours. Does
> anyone know of a source for these springs? This one is about 5/8=94
> in diameter and 2.25=94 unexpanded.
>
>
> S6 912S
>
>
> Thanks, John
>
>
> ========================
> ========================
the
> ========================
> ========================
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Broken Exhaust Spring |
I found them at Tractor Supply. If you don't have a tractor supply near you let
me know and I can get a couple for you.
Jimmie
John Banes <JohnBanes@adelphia.net> wrote:
One of the exhaust system springs failed after 230 hours. Does
anyone know of a source for these springs? This one is about 5/8 in diameter
and 2.25 unexpanded.
S6 912S
Thanks, John
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Gas Lift struts |
I have bought several from KenCon Hardware in Bristol Indiana. Always found them nice folks to deal with. Phone: 574 848-5252, Web site: www.kencon.us, Part # for Model IV is GS-35-12. Fits perfectly and takes about 30 seconds to install.
Jimmie
parahawk <alfi98596@yahoo.com> wrote:
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "parahawk"
Can anybody tell me what kind of Lift struts would fit the Kitfox IV doors. Mine
came without and it's rather anoying not being able to keep the doors open.
The obvious place to look for them would be the new Kitfox or Sportplanes LLC,
but unfortunately my e-mail requests to 3 different addresses have not been answered.
So maybe there is an easier solution from an aftermarket manufacturer.
Thanks
--------
Flying is the highest form of life on earth.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=63529#63529
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Gas Lift struts |
Go down to Advance Auto (if you have one) and ask for Gas strut
# 4420. They may have to order it but they
work fine.Have same on my model II and
they work fine. In use Two years.
Glenn Horne Suffolk, Va
Model II 582
From: Jimmie Blackwell
To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, September 24, 2006 11:12 AM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Gas Lift struts
I have bought several from KenCon Hardware in Bristol Indiana. Always
found them nice folks to deal with. Phone: 574 848-5252, Web site:
www.kencon.us, Part # for Model IV is GS-35-12. Fits perfectly and
takes about 30 seconds to install.
Jimmie
parahawk <alfi98596@yahoo.com> wrote:
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "parahawk"
Can anybody tell me what kind of Lift struts would fit the Kitfox IV
doors. Mine came without and it's rather anoying not being able to keep
the doors open. The obvious place to look for them would be the new
Kitfox or Sportplanes LLC, but unfortunately my e-mail requests to 3
different addresses have not been answered. So maybe there is an easier
solution from an aftermarket manufacturer.
Thanks
--------
Flying is
Message 16
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Also, most RV/Motor home supply stores like Camping World have a selection
of gas struts. Just take your old one in to match it.
Don Pearsall
_____
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Glenn Horne
Sent: Sunday, September 24, 2006 9:49 AM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Gas Lift struts
Go down to Advance Auto (if you have one) and ask for Gas strut
# 4420. They may have to order it but they
work fine.Have same on my model II and
they work fine. In use Two years.
Glenn Horne Suffolk, Va
Model II 582
From: Jimmie Blackwell <mailto:jimmieblackwell@sbcglobal.net>
Sent: Sunday, September 24, 2006 11:12 AM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Gas Lift struts
I have bought several from KenCon Hardware in Bristol Indiana. Always found
them nice folks to deal with. Phone: 574 848-5252, Web site:
www.kencon.us, Part # for Model IV is GS-35-12. Fits perfectly and takes
about 30 seconds to install.
Jimmie
parahawk <alfi98596@yahoo.com> wrote:
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "parahawk"
Can anybody tell me what kind of Lift struts would fit the Kitfox IV doors.
Mine came without and it's rather anoying not being able to keep the doors
open. The obvious place to look for them would be the new Kitfox or
Sportplanes LLC, but unfortunately my e-mail requests to 3 different
addresses have not been answered. So maybe there is an easier solution from
an aftermarket manufacturer.
Thanks
--------
Flying is
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Off Topic Old issues of Kitplanes |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Brent E Bidus <brentbidus@juno.com>
Cory,
Photocopy, PDF file, any medium would be great. Thanks,
Brent
On Sat, 23 Sep 2006 19:35:35 -0700 Cory Emberson <bootless@earthlink.net>
writes:
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Cory Emberson
> <bootless@earthlink.net>
>
> Packrat? Kitplanes? Now you're speaking my language.
>
> I'll take a look this evening and let you know. Would a photocopy be
> OK?
> The issues belong to Rick Lindstrom, not me, but we work in the same
>
> location.
>
> Best,
> Cory
>
> Brent E Bidus wrote:
>
> >--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Brent E Bidus
> <brentbidus@juno.com>
> >
> >List,
> >
> >I'm looking for a series of articles that ran from Feb-July 1993 in
> >Kitplanes magazine on the Murphy Renegade Spirit. Thought I'd
> check to
> >see if anyone on the list may be a packrat and still have these
> issues.
> >They aren't available from Kitplanes. Thanks,
> >
> >Brent Bidus
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Oil injection problems |
I'm in the process of installing an oil injection pump and reservoir on
my model 4, with a 582 Blue Head engine. Just getting tired of mixing
oil and gas and thought I'd let Rotax do it.
I have everything hooked up and put oil in the tank.........but, can't
get the oil to pass, past the vent screw in the intake side of the oil
injection pump. When I take out the vent screw, oil comes out. (all
over the place and makes a terrible mess. Never can get the screw back
into the hole) But that's as far as the oil will go. I have loosened
the 2 allen screws holding the pump onto the housing which contains the
white plastic gear, which runs the pump, but no oil will pass into the
"white gear housing", so that it can transfer into the small tubes going
to the intake manifold. I have also loosened the bolts that fasten the
"white gear housing", thinking that there might be an air block. Since
the oil won't transfer past the pump and into the larger housing, I
assume that there must be a worm, drive type of screw pump to bring the
oil down into the "main" housing, where the white gear lives and the oil
won't pass the worm drive (?) into the "main" pump housing.
I''m "chicken" to try and start the engine with no oil supply ready to
feed the darn thing, so how can I prime the injection supply and make
certain that it's feeding the proper amount into the intake mamifold?
Everything that I can read, tells me that oil inection is the way to go,
as problems with the pump and pump failure are almost non-existant. (?)
Yuh can't see anythin goin' on.........Wonder if we could cut a window,
so we could see?
I'll bet that I've confused the situation, beyond confusion and I'm sure
the foregoing makes dry reading.........but.................
Anybody out there knowledgeable in this situation?
Help Herb
Message 19
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| Subject: | Series 7 butt rib question? |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "darinh" <gerns25@netscape.net>
I am installing the butt ribs on my 7 and have run into something that doesn't
quite look right. Here is the situation:
When I position the #1 rib on the wing then allow for the 1/16" between the #1
rib and the butt rib, the rear butt rib tab (welded to the upper member of the
door frame on the fuselage) does not have enough clearance between the hing bolts
and the butt rib flange to allow for the rivets. The front tab is just fine
with plenty of room but...I am installing a 912S so I am not putting in the
1 degree of sweep and have measured and remeasured from Rib #2 to Rib #1 and
am absolutely sure I have the 34 1/2" required for the fuel tank at the leading
and trailing edges. I have attached a couple of pics to help with the explanation...I
this what I should be seeing and if so, what should I do about it??
If this doesn't look right, what might my problem be? These are factory rigged
wings and I did not modify anything from the factory settings. I should
say that I am using the aeroplastics bubble doors that are 1/8" thick so my hinge
is spaced a tad bit more away from the fuse to allow for clearance, but I
need around 3/8" to get the rivets into the flange of the butt rib.
Any ideas?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=63653#63653
Attachments:
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http://forums.matronics.com//files/dscf1559_medium_152.jpg
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Oil injection problems |
I would mix up five gallons gas at 50 to 1 with oil and run it.
You should see the oil coming past the pump in the first few minutes.
What kind of oil do you have in injectdion bottle ? And is the bottom
of bottle higher than the oil pump port ?
Also what colour oil is it ? It will be easier to see if darker.
That bleeder screw has a washer under it as well.
Dave
----- Original Message -----
From: HMDOUD
To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, September 24, 2006 6:51 PM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Oil injection problems
I'm in the process of installing an oil injection pump and reservoir
on my model 4, with a 582 Blue Head engine. Just getting tired of
mixing oil and gas and thought I'd let Rotax do it.
I have everything hooked up and put oil in the tank.........but,
can't get the oil to pass, past the vent screw in the intake side of the
oil injection pump. When I take out the vent screw, oil comes out.
(all over the place and makes a terrible mess. Never can get the screw
back into the hole) But that's as far as the oil will go. I have
loosened the 2 allen screws holding the pump onto the housing which
contains the white plastic gear, which runs the pump, but no oil will
pass into the "white gear housing", so that it can transfer into the
small tubes going to the intake manifold. I have also loosened the
bolts that fasten the "white gear housing", thinking that there might be
an air block. Since the oil won't transfer past the pump and into the
larger housing, I assume that there must be a worm, drive type of screw
pump to bring the oil down into the "main" housing, where the white gear
lives and the oil won't pass the worm drive (?) into the "main" pump
housing.
I''m "chicken" to try and start the engine with no oil supply ready to
feed the darn thing, so how can I prime the injection supply and make
certain that it's feeding the proper amount into the intake mamifold?
Everything that I can read, tells me that oil inection is the way to go,
as problems with the pump and pump failure are almost non-existant. (?)
Yuh can't see anythin goin' on.........Wonder if we could cut a window,
so we could see?
I'll bet that I've confused the situation, beyond confusion and I'm
sure the foregoing makes dry reading.........but.................
Anybody out there knowledgeable in this situation?
Help Herb
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Oil injection problems |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Guy Buchanan <bnn@nethere.com>
At 03:51 PM 9/24/2006, you wrote:
>I''m "chicken" to try and start the engine with no oil supply ready to
>feed the darn thing, so how can I prime the injection supply and make
>certain that it's feeding the proper amount into the intake
>mamifold? Everything that I can read, tells me that oil inection is the
>way to go, as problems with the pump and pump failure are almost
>non-existant. (?) Yuh can't see anythin goin' on.........Wonder if we
>could cut a window, so we could see?
It's easy to run the engine with "no" oil supply. Simply pre-mix a gallon
or two at 50:1 and start the engine with that. Get everything primed and
pumping, then drain the mixed gas, dilute it to 100:1, then run it through,
confirming the oil level in the reservoir is going down. I never tried to
get oil to the intake manifold before I ran the engine. I cleared oil to
the vent screw per the manual and then started it. After a few minutes of
running I shut it down and confirmed oil in the feed lines to the intake
manifold. It's been working ever since.
If it still doesn't feed you'll have to bring in some more eyes. Where are you?
Guy Buchanan
K-IV 1200 / 582-C / Warp / 100% done, thanks mostly to Bob Ducar.
Message 22
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| Subject: | Off Topic Old issues of Kitplanes |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Ed Akerstrom" <e.akerstrom@sbcglobal.net>
Brent,
You might try the Wings of History aircraft museum. They have a library with
many older aircraft magazines. The url is http://www.wingsofhistory.org/
Ed Akerstrom
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Brent E Bidus
Sent: Saturday, September 23, 2006 7:21 PM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Off Topic Old issues of Kitplanes
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Brent E Bidus <brentbidus@juno.com>
List,
I'm looking for a series of articles that ran from Feb-July 1993 in
Kitplanes magazine on the Murphy Renegade Spirit. Thought I'd check to
see if anyone on the list may be a packrat and still have these issues.
They aren't available from Kitplanes. Thanks,
Brent Bidus
Message 23
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I just purchased four springs from John McBean. Mine were wearing
through. Changed them at the annual. The price was very reasonable.
Throw some business John's way. Also, run safety wire inside the spring.
Jeff Classsic IV
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| Subject: | Re: Series 7 butt rib question? |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "jimcarriere" <jimcarriere@yahoo.com>
This is a little blurred, but I put a yardstick in there at the same time to maybe
help...
This is the rear of my left butt rib. You can see the two rivet heads holding
the butt rib to the tab, and the two holes in the tab for the rear door hinge.
I can't take the same picture angle as you because that would be straight at
my celing light, and if I turn it off there is too much glare from my camera
flash... sorry.
I have the factory rigged wings, swept forward (although the difference on the
rear tab should be negligible). The holes in my front tab look pretty similar
to yours. The rear one, well, I'm not sure why yours isn't coming out. from
the edge of the "B" pillar (vertical square fuselage tube that forms the back
of the door) to the center of the rear through-bolt (that holds the rear wing
spar to the fuselage) is about 1-1/4". From the edge of the #3 rib (the one
next to the fuel tank) to the center of the rear through-bolt is 36-1/8" (left
wing) and 36-1/4" (right wing).
Hope all this helps. Ask me to clarify if any of it doesn't make sense.
Jim in NW FL
Series 7 in progress
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=63671#63671
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| Subject: | Re: Series 7 butt rib question? |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "jimcarriere" <jimcarriere@yahoo.com>
Sorry about the filesize everyone. I shrunk it to 64k but then uploaded the original,
huge, file.
--------
Jim in NW FL
Kitfox Series 7 in progress
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=63672#63672
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| Subject: | Re: Series 7 butt rib question? |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "darinh" <gerns25@netscape.net>
Jim,
Can you put a tape on that rear tab of yours and tell me what the dimension is
along the bottom of the tab from the outside face of the door frame to the center
of your rivet holes? Or, tell me how much of the tab you have protruding
that will get trimmed? This way, I can measure mine and compare. By the way,
what is that you have attached to the butt rib?...
Thanks,
Darin
Read this topic online here:
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Hey guys,
Back in the early 1990s, there was at least one or two companies tha
t made plans and/or kits for radio control Kitfoxes. I was building my f
ull scale Model 3 back then and decided to give that my full attention a
nd look into R/C later. Now I can't find any info about kits or plans. D
o any of you know of plans or kits out there?
Rex Phelps in Michigan
<html><P>Hey guys,</P>
<P> Back in the early 1990s, there was at least one or
two companies that made plans and/or kits for radio control Kitfoxes. I
was building my full scale Model 3 back then and decided to give t
hat my full attention and look into R/C later. Now I can't find any info
about kits or plans. Do any of you know of plans or kits out there?</P>
<P>Rex Phelps in Michigan</P>
<pre><b><font size=2 color="#000000" face="courier new,courier">
</b></font></pre></body></html>
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: Series 7 butt rib question? |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "jimcarriere" <jimcarriere@yahoo.com>
Sure...
I will have to trim 13/16" from each rear tab, 3/4" from the front-right, and 7/8"
from the front-left... I think the variation is because I had to bend all
four tabs in a zig-zag shape to get them to meet the butt ribs. The bends probably
all turned out different, but the important thing is the butt ribs are
accurately located with respect to the inboard ribs. I sure hope my wings turn
out straight! :) But seriously, I think they'll be fine.
The dimension from the outside face of the door frame is a bit difficult for me
to accurately measure, because of said bending of the tabs.
When I located the holes for the door hinges, I think I used duct taped everything
in place (hinges, doors), and carefully drilled pilot holes... that was several
months ago though, I'm not sure if that's exactly what I did.
I cut and attached some clear lucite plastic to the butt ribs. Six of one or a
half-dozen of the other I guess. I did that so that I wouldn't have to sew windows
into the butt-rib fabric. I still have to seal the gap between the butt
ribs and the top of the door frames (will probably use a small strip of fabric
for that).
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=63678#63678
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| Subject: | Re: Radio Control? |
The third scale kit was made in South Africa some years ago and is out of
production. I have a set of plans that I got through the Kitfox list some years
ago that are somewhere around my shop. It even has the folding wing
feature. I'll try to find them if your interested.
Larry Gagnon
IV / 912 somewhere in Florida
RV6 120 hours
RV6A 75% done
Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: Series 7 butt rib question? |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "darinh" <gerns25@netscape.net>
Thanks Jim,
I have z-bent mine as well and I am coming up with basically the same numbers you
are. I just measured 3/4" to be trimmed from the rear tab but it is not quite
flush agains the bottom flange of the butt rib...I suspect with a bit more
tweeking, I would be around the 13/16" you are measuring. One other quick question:
If you sight down the butt rib and the fuse header tube (that the little brackets
rivet to, is there an equal distance at the leading edge and trailing edge
(Between the butt rib and the fuse header tube) or does is decrease towards the
trailing edge?
Thanks again,
Darin
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=63684#63684
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| Subject: | Re: Series 7 butt rib question? |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "jimcarriere" <jimcarriere@yahoo.com>
Darin, my left butt rib is pretty close to parallel and what I think you mean is
the header tube (the tube parallel to and about 2" above the upper door frame).
My right butt rib is actually almost 1/4" closer at the leading edge (wow!).
I think that for no-sweep wings, the butt ribs wouldn't be parallel to the
fuselage tubes at all.
Note I chose the forward swept wings, and one degree is about half an inch difference
between the leading edge and trailing edge of the butt ribs. My butt ribs
aren't parallel to each other; they are slightly more than 1" closer together
at their leading edges than their trailing edges. Since they are 27" long,
the trigonometry works out to very close to 1 degree forward sweep for each
wing.
Now I'm wondering if my plane will fly straight. I should wait until flying it
before installing the ball on my instrument panel :)
So much of this depends on the accuracy of the holes though the spars though.
--------
Jim in NW FL
Kitfox Series 7 in progress
Read this topic online here:
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| Subject: | Re: Series 7 butt rib question? |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Dave and Diane <ddsyverson@comcast.net>
Darinh,
Judging from your photo, your butt ribs ended up at exactly the same position
in relation to the rear hinge & rivets as on my model 7 - which did not have
the quick build wings.
Here is what is important.
1) The wing ribs have to be in the exact place that the measurements put them
- quick build or slow build should be exactly the same.
2) The spar bolt holes are fixed in relation to the end of the spar, since the
ribs are fixed in relation to the spar, Rib # 1 is going to be where it is
going to be.
3) The butt rib must be adjusted to fit 1/16" from rib #1 to allow room for
the fabric
Remaining options? - unscrew the rear door hinge, put the butt rib rivets
under the hinge and either fabricate a spacer or relieve the back of the
hinge so the rivets don't hold it off the tab. A person may have to relieve
the inside of the butt rib to make room for the rear upper hinge nuts.
At least that is how mine worked out - doors fit fine, so do the butt ribs &
the hinges work smoothly.
Sincerey,
Dave S.
St Paul MN
M7
On Sunday 24 September 2006 7:09 pm, darinh wrote:
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "darinh" <gerns25@netscape.net>
>
> I am installing the butt ribs on my 7 and have run into something that
> doesn't quite look right. Here is the situation:
>
> When I position the #1 rib on the wing then allow for the 1/16" between the
> Any ideas?
>
>
>
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