Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:15 AM - Re: Radio Control? (Rexster)
2. 04:10 AM - Re: Oil injection problems (Bob Unternaehrer)
3. 04:33 AM - Re: Exhaust Springs (Brian Rodgers)
4. 08:04 AM - Re: Exhaust Springs (akflyer)
5. 09:21 AM - Re: Night flight (akflyer)
6. 11:37 AM - Re: Oil injection problems (tc9008@aol.com)
7. 11:58 AM - Re: Oil injection problems (Bob Robertson)
8. 12:41 PM - Polyethylene adhesive test (HMDOUD)
9. 01:12 PM - Re: Re: Exhaust Springs (Noel Loveys)
10. 02:43 PM - Model 7/3300Jabiru (dcsfoto)
11. 04:15 PM - Re: Polyethylene adhesive test (Don Pearsall)
12. 04:36 PM - Re: Exhaust Springs (jeff puls)
13. 04:55 PM - J C Whitney Landing Light (jeff puls)
14. 05:12 PM - Re: Oil injection problems (Don Smythe)
15. 06:31 PM - Re: Exhaust Springs (john perry)
16. 06:33 PM - Re: Re: Exhaust Springs (john perry)
17. 06:40 PM - Re: Oil injection problems (Malcolmbru@AOL.COM)
18. 06:49 PM - Re: Broken Exhaust Spring (John Banes)
19. 06:52 PM - Re: Exhaust Springs (akflyer)
20. 07:17 PM - Re: Polyethylene adhesive test (Todd Leiss)
21. 08:10 PM - Student Insurance (Bernhard10)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Radio Control? |
When you get a chance, I would be interested. No hurry. I've made it thi
s far.
Rex in Michigan
-- KFN102LG@aol.com wrote:
The third scale kit was made in South Africa some years ago and is out o
f production. I have a set of plans that I got through the Kitfox list
some years ago that are somewhere around my shop. It even has the foldi
ng wing feature. I'll try to find them if your interested.
Larry Gagnon
IV / 912 somewhere in Florida
RV6 120 hours
RV6A 75% done
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<html><P>When you get a chance, I would be interested. No hurry. I've ma
de it this far.</P>
<P>Rex in Michigan</P>
<P><BR><BR>-- KFN102LG@aol.com wrote:<BR><FONT face=arial,he
lvetica><FONT face=Geneva color=#000000 size=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF
">The third scale kit was made in South Africa some years ago and is out
of production. I have a set of plans that I got through the Kitfo
x list some years ago that are somewhere around my shop. It even h
as the folding wing feature. I'll try to find them if your interested.<B
R><BR>Larry Gagnon<BR>IV / 912 somewhere in Florida<BR>RV6 1
20 hours<BR>RV6A 75% done</FONT><FONT face=Geneva color=
#000000 size=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF"></FONT> </P><PRE><B><FONT face="
courier new,courier" color=#000000 size=2>
========================
===========
">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List</A>
========================
===========
tronics.com</A>
========================
===========
ics.com</A>
========================
===========
www.matronics.com/contribution</A>
========================
===========
</B></FONT></PRE></FONT>
<pre><b><font size=2 color="#000000" face="courier new,courier">
</b></font></pre></body></html>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Oil injection problems |
I couldn't read the small print,,,,smile.. Continue to use mixed gas
and oil in addition to the oil injection until you are sure you are
feeding oil. One common problem seems to be air getting trapped in the
oil screen. I solved this by backfeeding oil from the pump side back
into the tank with a temporary tank held above he regular oil tank. You
should also wire the pump lever full open for the first few minutes of
running. If that doesn't pas oil then the pump isn't turning and maybe
something is put together wrong. Bob U.
----- Original Message -----
From: Dave
To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, September 24, 2006 6:06 PM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Oil injection problems
I would mix up five gallons gas at 50 to 1 with oil and run it.
You should see the oil coming past the pump in the first few minutes.
What kind of oil do you have in injectdion bottle ? And is the bottom
of bottle higher than the oil pump port ?
Also what colour oil is it ? It will be easier to see if darker.
That bleeder screw has a washer under it as well.
Dave
----- Original Message -----
From: HMDOUD
To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, September 24, 2006 6:51 PM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Oil injection problems
I'm in the process of installing an oil injection pump and reservoir
on my model 4, with a 582 Blue Head engine. Just getting tired of
mixing oil and gas and thought I'd let Rotax do it.
I have everything hooked up and put oil in the tank.........but,
can't get the oil to pass, past the vent screw in the intake side of the
oil injection pump. When I take out the vent screw, oil comes out.
(all over the place and makes a terrible mess. Never can get the screw
back into the hole) But that's as far as the oil will go. I have
loosened the 2 allen screws holding the pump onto the housing which
contains the white plastic gear, which runs the pump, but no oil will
pass into the "white gear housing", so that it can transfer into the
small tubes going to the intake manifold. I have also loosened the
bolts that fasten the "white gear housing", thinking that there might be
an air block. Since the oil won't transfer past the pump and into the
larger housing, I assume that there must be a worm, drive type of screw
pump to bring the oil down into the "main" housing, where the white gear
lives and the oil won't pass the worm drive (?) into the "main" pump
housing.
I''m "chicken" to try and start the engine with no oil supply ready
to feed the darn thing, so how can I prime the injection supply and make
certain that it's feeding the proper amount into the intake mamifold?
Everything that I can read, tells me that oil inection is the way to go,
as problems with the pump and pump failure are almost non-existant. (?)
Yuh can't see anythin goin' on.........Wonder if we could cut a window,
so we could see?
I'll bet that I've confused the situation, beyond confusion and I'm
sure the foregoing makes dry reading.........but.................
Anybody out there knowledgeable in this situation?
Help Herb
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Exhaust Springs |
The springs most typically wear thru at the ends (due to rubbing on the
exhaust brackets), not the middle, so safety wire run inside the spring
will not help.
Brian
----- Original Message -----
From: jeff puls
To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, September 24, 2006 7:39 PM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Exhaust Springs
I just purchased four springs from John McBean. Mine were wearing
through. Changed them at the annual. The price was very reasonable.
Throw some business John's way. Also, run safety wire inside the spring.
Jeff Classsic IV
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Exhaust Springs |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "akflyer" <akflyer_2000@yahoo.com>
this is a pic from an avid I just picked up. It shows what he is talking about
o nthe safety wire. It does hold the exhaust together for a little while if
the spring breaks. Another thing we do on our race snowmachines is smear high
temp RTV on one side of the spring. It keeps alot of the vibtarion and rattling
down.
--------
Avid C W/582
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=63744#63744
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc05048_1_279.jpg
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Night flight |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "akflyer" <akflyer_2000@yahoo.com>
You need to make sure your instructor gives you adequate night flying. I had my
ticket for 4 months before I ever got in my first night flight due to the long
days of summer here. I could not find an instructor that would go fly with
me at 2:00 AM for a marginal 30 minutes of dusk....
Even though my ticket stated that night flight was prohibited, I found myself trying
to get home from one heck of an adventure that we like to call hunting trips...
night flight in close mountain passage with a first time ever night landing...
not what I would ever recommend to anyone else but by divine intervention
I am still walking... by all rights I should have become one withthe mountains
that night. It was a lesson I will never forget.
I started night flyhing with an instructor the very next day and picked up a few
things I had not learned the previous evening. Like how to keep the plane going
straight down the runway once the tail settles. John gave you good advice
on that.
--------
Avid C W/582
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=63753#63753
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Oil injection problems |
I would put the correct amount of oil in my gas and then crank it let it run. Be
sure to mark your oil tank so you can tell if it is mixing . it will cause it
to run rich but will save an engine if your pump is not working. Let it idle
at 2000 rpm.
Travis
----Original Message-----
From: hdoud@satx.rr.com
Sent: Sun, 24 Sep 2006 6:51 PM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Oil injection problems
I'm in the process of installing an oil injection pump and reservoir on my model
4, with a 582 Blue Head engine. Just getting tired of mixing oil and gas and
thought I'd let Rotax do it.
I have everything hooked up and put oil in the tank.........but, can't get the
oil to pass, past the vent screw in the intake side of the oil injection pump.
When I take out the vent screw, oil comes out. (all over the place and makes
a terrible mess. Never can get the screw back into the hole) But that's
as far as the oil will go. I have loosened the 2 allen screws holding the pump
onto the housing which contains the white plastic gear, which runs the pump,
but no oil will pass into the "white gear housing", so that it can transfer
into the small tubes going to the intake manifold. I have also loosened the
bolts that fasten the "white gear housing", thinking that there might be an air
block. Since the oil won't transfer past the pump and into the larger housing,
I assume that there must be a worm, drive type of screw pump to bring the
oil down into the "main" housing, where the white gear lives and the oil won't
pass the worm drive (?) into the "main" pump housin
g.
I''m "chicken" to try and start the engine with no oil supply ready to feed the
darn thing, so how can I prime the injection supply and make certain that it's
feeding the proper amount into the intake mamifold? Everything that I can
read, tells me that oil inection is the way to go, as problems with the pump and
pump failure are almost non-existant. (?) Yuh can't see anythin goin' on.........Wonder
if we could cut a window, so we could see?
I'll bet that I've confused the situation, beyond confusion and I'm sure the foregoing
makes dry reading.........but.................
Anybody out there knowledgeable in this situation?
Help Herb
________________________________________________________________________
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Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Oil injection problems |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Bob Robertson" <aerocontrols@clearwave.ca>
Can you enlarge the text so it can be read...
regards
Bob Robertson
Light Engine Services Ltd.
Rotax Service Center
Aero Control Enterprises, Inc.
St. Albert, Ab. T8N 1M8
Ph: (Tech Support) 1-780-418-4164
Ph: (Order Line) 1-866-418-4164 (TOLL FREE)
www.rtx-av-engines.ca
www.aerocontrols.net
----- Original Message -----
From: "HMDOUD" <hdoud@satx.rr.com>
Sent: Sunday, September 24, 2006 4:51 PM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Oil injection problems
I'm in the process of installing an oil injection pump and reservoir on my
model 4, with a 582 Blue Head engine. Just getting tired of mixing oil and
gas and thought I'd let Rotax do it.
I have everything hooked up and put oil in the tank.........but, can't get
the oil to pass, past the vent screw in the intake side of the oil injection
pump. When I take out the vent screw, oil comes out. (all over the place
and makes a terrible mess. Never can get the screw back into the hole)
But that's as far as the oil will go. I have loosened the 2 allen screws
holding the pump onto the housing which contains the white plastic gear,
which runs the pump, but no oil will pass into the "white gear housing", so
that it can transfer into the small tubes going to the intake manifold. I
have also loosened the bolts that fasten the "white gear housing", thinking
that there might be an air block. Since the oil won't transfer past the
pump and into the larger housing, I assume that there must be a worm, drive
type of screw pump to bring the oil down into the "main" housing, where the
white gear lives and the oil won't pass the worm drive (?) into the "main"
pump housing.
I''m "chicken" to try and start the engine with no oil supply ready to feed
the darn thing, so how can I prime the injection supply and make certain
that it's feeding the proper amount into the intake mamifold? Everything
that I can read, tells me that oil inection is the way to go, as problems
with the pump and pump failure are almost non-existant. (?) Yuh can't see
anythin goin' on.........Wonder if we could cut a window, so we could see?
I'll bet that I've confused the situation, beyond confusion and I'm sure the
foregoing makes dry reading.........but.................
Anybody out there knowledgeable in this situation?
Help Herb
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Message 8
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| Subject: | Polyethylene adhesive test |
Well, I got the 3M DP-8005 (correct number) Polyethylene adhesion test
completed.
Took a 1 gallon milk bottle and a 1"x 1/16" pice of aluminum, cleaned
them with MEK, didn't bother to rough them up and squeezed out a pea
size amount of adhesive. Using top notch research methods, I taped a
couple of wooden pencils together, with a AAA battery between the
pencils in paralell., so I could push the glue plungers equally. One
syringe plunger is very small and one is much larger, giving the proper
10:1 glue ratio.
I stuck the aluminum bar onto the gallon milk jug, with the pea sized
gob of glue and let it squish out the sides of the mating. You have to
do all of the "stickin' together" in 3 minutes or less. I let'r sit all
night and the next morning tried to get the 2 pieces apart.
There was no way...........I finally pulled to the point of tearing the
side clear out of the milk jug, ruining a perfectly good galon milk jug
and bending a perfectly good piece of aluminum.
I should caution anyone wanting to duplicate this, very profesional,
exhaustive test, to first empty the milk jug of milk.
Needless to say, I'm convinced the the adhesive will, without question,
hold a piece of aluminum to the side of a polyethylene milk jug, no
matter how hard one pulls on the piece of aluminum.
I finally got "some" of the adhesive off of the aluminum, with a hammer
and chisel, further damaging my 6"X1"X1/16" piece of aluminum, that I
had been saving for several years, ............for something or other.
Oh Well........
Anyway, 3M did a bang up job designing this DP-8005 (correct number)
adhesive and I'm going to take heart in hand, drill an inch and
something or other, hole in the top of my Fox header tank and glue on
the aluminum flange, so the low level fuel sensor can be installed.
I did check with 3M regarding the compatiblity of gasoline and DP-8005
(correct number) and they told me the was no problem. However, once
there was ethanol added to the gas, there would be a major explosion!
(Just kidding)
Regards............Herb Advanced Scientific Polyethylene Glue
Sticking Dept MBAPOOP
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Exhaust Springs |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Noel Loveys" <noelloveys@yahoo.ca>
I run a lockwire up inside my exhaust springs in case one of the springs
breaks it won't be flailing around inside the cowl. It is tied pretty loose
but will hold the exhaust together for short periods of time even if more
than one spring decides to call it quits.
Noel
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of akflyer
> Sent: Monday, September 25, 2006 12:34 PM
> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: Exhaust Springs
>
>
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "akflyer" <akflyer_2000@yahoo.com>
>
> this is a pic from an avid I just picked up. It shows what
> he is talking about o nthe safety wire. It does hold the
> exhaust together for a little while if the spring breaks.
> Another thing we do on our race snowmachines is smear high
> temp RTV on one side of the spring. It keeps alot of the
> vibtarion and rattling down.
>
> --------
> Avid C W/582
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=63744#63744
>
>
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc05048_1_279.jpg
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Model 7/3300Jabiru |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "dcsfoto" <david@kelm.com>
anyone using a 3300 Job on a Model 7
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=63797#63797
Message 11
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| Subject: | Polyethylene adhesive test |
Very good report, Herb! Sorry about your milk jug and your scrap of
aluminum. Sacrifices in the name of science are always difficult, but we do
appreciate you for making them.
Don Pearsall
_____
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of HMDOUD
Sent: Monday, September 25, 2006 12:41 PM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Polyethylene adhesive test
Well, I got the 3M DP-8005 (correct number) Polyethylene adhesion test
completed.
Took a 1 gallon milk bottle and a 1"x 1/16" pice of aluminum, cleaned them
with MEK, didn't bother to rough them up and squeezed out a pea size amount
of adhesive. Using top notch research methods, I taped a couple of wooden
pencils together, with a AAA battery between the pencils in paralell., so I
could push the glue plungers equally. One syringe plunger is very small
and one is much larger, giving the proper 10:1 glue ratio.
I stuck the aluminum bar onto the gallon milk jug, with the pea sized gob of
glue and let it squish out the sides of the mating. You have to do all of
the "stickin' together" in 3 minutes or less. I let'r sit all night and the
next morning tried to get the 2 pieces apart.
There was no way...........I finally pulled to the point of tearing the side
clear out of the milk jug, ruining a perfectly good galon milk jug and
bending a perfectly good piece of aluminum.
I should caution anyone wanting to duplicate this, very profesional,
exhaustive test, to first empty the milk jug of milk.
Needless to say, I'm convinced the the adhesive will, without question, hold
a piece of aluminum to the side of a polyethylene milk jug, no matter how
hard one pulls on the piece of aluminum.
I finally got "some" of the adhesive off of the aluminum, with a hammer and
chisel, further damaging my 6"X1"X1/16" piece of aluminum, that I had been
saving for several years, ............for something or other.
Oh Well........
Anyway, 3M did a bang up job designing this DP-8005 (correct number)
adhesive and I'm going to take heart in hand, drill an inch and something or
other, hole in the top of my Fox header tank and glue on the aluminum
flange, so the low level fuel sensor can be installed.
I did check with 3M regarding the compatiblity of gasoline and DP-8005
(correct number) and they told me the was no problem. However, once there
was ethanol added to the gas, there would be a major explosion! (Just
kidding)
Regards............Herb Advanced Scientific Polyethylene Glue Sticking
Dept MBAPOOP
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Exhaust Springs |
Brian,
The safety wire is there in case the spring breaks. It is wired to the
connectors in side the spring. I guess you had to be there. Jeff
----- Original Message -----
From: Brian Rodgers
To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, September 25, 2006 7:33 AM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Exhaust Springs
The springs most typically wear thru at the ends (due to rubbing on
the exhaust brackets), not the middle, so safety wire run inside the
spring will not help.
Brian
----- Original Message -----
From: jeff puls
To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, September 24, 2006 7:39 PM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Exhaust Springs
I just purchased four springs from John McBean. Mine were wearing
through. Changed them at the annual. The price was very reasonable.
Throw some business John's way. Also, run safety wire inside the spring.
Jeff Classsic IV
Message 13
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|
| Subject: | J C Whitney Landing Light |
Someone a while back purchased a landing light from J C Whitney. I have
searched and searched but can't find it. Does someone have a part
number? Jeff, Classic IV
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Oil injection problems |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Don Smythe" <dosmythe@cox.net>
What's the matter Bob, you getting old?
Don Smythe
Do Not Archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Robertson" <aerocontrols@clearwave.ca>
Sent: Monday, September 25, 2006 2:57 PM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Oil injection problems
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Bob Robertson"
> <aerocontrols@clearwave.ca>
>
> Can you enlarge the text so it can be read...
>
> regards
>
> Bob Robertson
> Light Engine Services Ltd.
> Rotax Service Center
> Aero Control Enterprises, Inc.
> St. Albert, Ab. T8N 1M8
> Ph: (Tech Support) 1-780-418-4164
> Ph: (Order Line) 1-866-418-4164 (TOLL FREE)
> www.rtx-av-engines.ca
> www.aerocontrols.net
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "HMDOUD" <hdoud@satx.rr.com>
> To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Sunday, September 24, 2006 4:51 PM
> Subject: Kitfox-List: Oil injection problems
>
>
> I'm in the process of installing an oil injection pump and reservoir on my
> model 4, with a 582 Blue Head engine. Just getting tired of mixing oil
> and gas and thought I'd let Rotax do it.
>
> I have everything hooked up and put oil in the tank.........but, can't get
> the oil to pass, past the vent screw in the intake side of the oil
> injection pump. When I take out the vent screw, oil comes out. (all
> over the place and makes a terrible mess. Never can get the screw back
> into the hole) But that's as far as the oil will go. I have loosened the
> 2 allen screws holding the pump onto the housing which contains the white
> plastic gear, which runs the pump, but no oil will pass into the "white
> gear housing", so that it can transfer into the small tubes going to the
> intake manifold. I have also loosened the bolts that fasten the "white
> gear housing", thinking that there might be an air block. Since the oil
> won't transfer past the pump and into the larger housing, I assume that
> there must be a worm, drive type of screw pump to bring the oil down into
> the "main" housing, where the white gear lives and the oil won't pass the
> worm drive (?) into the "main" pump housing.
>
> I''m "chicken" to try and start the engine with no oil supply ready to
> feed the darn thing, so how can I prime the injection supply and make
> certain that it's feeding the proper amount into the intake mamifold?
> Everything that I can read, tells me that oil inection is the way to go,
> as problems with the pump and pump failure are almost non-existant. (?)
> Yuh can't see anythin goin' on.........Wonder if we could cut a window, so
> we could see?
>
> I'll bet that I've confused the situation, beyond confusion and I'm sure
> the foregoing makes dry reading.........but.................
>
> Anybody out there knowledgeable in this situation?
>
> Help Herb
>
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Exhaust Springs |
You are supposed to safety wire the springs, So when they break the wire
keeps all the pieces together and not hsorting or flying around in the
cowling , also supposed to put rtv rubber silicone on the spring this
helps keep the vibrations down and also keep the pieces together .
John Perry
Kitfox 2 N718PD
582/ subbie
TD/ Straight floats
----- Original Message -----
From: Brian Rodgers
To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, September 25, 2006 6:33 AM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Exhaust Springs
The springs most typically wear thru at the ends (due to rubbing on
the exhaust brackets), not the middle, so safety wire run inside the
spring will not help.
Brian
----- Original Message -----
From: jeff puls
To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, September 24, 2006 7:39 PM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Exhaust Springs
I just purchased four springs from John McBean. Mine were wearing
through. Changed them at the annual. The price was very reasonable.
Throw some business John's way. Also, run safety wire inside the spring.
Jeff Classsic IV
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Exhaust Springs |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "john perry" <eskflyer@lvcisp.com>
Yo bro we think the same hMMMM must be in the genes .
Everyone this is my Brother in Alaska.
Welcome to the list BRO.
John Perry
kitfox 2 N718PD
582/ subbie
TD/ Straight Floats
----- Original Message -----
From: "akflyer" <akflyer_2000@yahoo.com>
Sent: Monday, September 25, 2006 10:03 AM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: Exhaust Springs
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "akflyer" <akflyer_2000@yahoo.com>
>
> this is a pic from an avid I just picked up. It shows what he is talking
> about o nthe safety wire. It does hold the exhaust together for a little
> while if the spring breaks. Another thing we do on our race snowmachines
> is smear high temp RTV on one side of the spring. It keeps alot of the
> vibtarion and rattling down.
>
> --------
> Avid C W/582
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=63744#63744
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc05048_1_279.jpg
>
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Oil injection problems |
You should put 50 to 1 mix in the gas tank . only about 1 gallon or so then
fill up the oil tank and idel the engin till the pump filles the tubes.
then fill the gass tank and the over all ratio will be slightly over 50 to one
for a little while .do not run the moter over idel till all air bubles are
out of the system . this is the way rotax prescribes to do it . malcolm 582
blue head
Message 18
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| Subject: | Broken Exhaust Spring |
Thanks Jimmie for such a special offer!
Thanks Lyle for the info.
I'll get in touch with John
John
Do Not Archive
_____
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jimmie
Blackwell
Sent: Sunday, September 24, 2006 11:00 AM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Broken Exhaust Spring
I found them at Tractor Supply. If you don't have a tractor supply near you
let me know and I can get a couple for you.
Jimmie
John Banes <JohnBanes@adelphia.net> wrote:
One of the exhaust system springs failed after 230 hours. Does anyone know
of a source for these springs? This one is about 5/8" in diameter and 2.25"
unexpanded.
S6 912S
Thanks, John
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Exhaust Springs |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "akflyer" <akflyer_2000@yahoo.com>
I was not going to let anyone know I was your brother lol... thanks for letting
that cat outa the bag...
--------
Avid C W/582
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=63863#63863
Message 20
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| Subject: | Polyethylene adhesive test |
Herb,
Sir, since you have such an well laid out Laboratory, and have used extensive and
expensive equipment for this test, I was wondering,
Can you do it again with Gorilla Glue and let us know the results?
Todd Leiss
----- Original Message -----
From: Don Pearsall
Sent: 9/25/2006 7:22:39 PM
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Polyethylene adhesive test
Very good report, Herb! Sorry about your milk jug and your scrap of aluminum. Sacrifices
in the name of science are always difficult, but we do appreciate you
for making them.
Don Pearsall
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of HMDOUD
Sent: Monday, September 25, 2006 12:41 PM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Polyethylene adhesive test
Well, I got the 3M DP-8005 (correct number) Polyethylene adhesion test completed.
Took a 1 gallon milk bottle and a 1"x 1/16" pice of aluminum, cleaned them with
MEK, didn't bother to rough them up and squeezed out a pea size amount of adhesive.
Using top notch research methods, I taped a couple of wooden pencils
together, with a AAA battery between the pencils in paralell., so I could push
the glue plungers equally. One syringe plunger is very small and one is much
larger, giving the proper 10:1 glue ratio.
I stuck the aluminum bar onto the gallon milk jug, with the pea sized gob of glue
and let it squish out the sides of the mating. You have to do all of the
"stickin' together" in 3 minutes or less. I let'r sit all night and the next
morning tried to get the 2 pieces apart.
There was no way...........I finally pulled to the point of tearing the side clear
out of the milk jug, ruining a perfectly good galon milk jug and bending a
perfectly good piece of aluminum.
I should caution anyone wanting to duplicate this, very profesional, exhaustive
test, to first empty the milk jug of milk.
Needless to say, I'm convinced the the adhesive will, without question, hold a
piece of aluminum to the side of a polyethylene milk jug, no matter how hard one
pulls on the piece of aluminum.
I finally got "some" of the adhesive off of the aluminum, with a hammer and chisel,
further damaging my 6"X1"X1/16" piece of aluminum, that I had been saving
for several years, ............for something or other.
Oh Well........
Anyway, 3M did a bang up job designing this DP-8005 (correct number) adhesive and
I'm going to take heart in hand, drill an inch and something or other, hole
in the top of my Fox header tank and glue on the aluminum flange, so the low
level fuel sensor can be installed.
I did check with 3M regarding the compatiblity of gasoline and DP-8005 (correct
number) and they told me the was no problem. However, once there was ethanol
added to the gas, there would be a major explosion! (Just kidding)
Regards............Herb Advanced Scientific Polyethylene Glue Sticking Dept
MBAPOOP
Message 21
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| Subject: | Student Insurance |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Bernhard10" <tiloxy@gmail.com>
It's been impossible so far to get insured as a student pilot with an Experimental
( Kitfox IV). I tried EAA and AOPA.
Does anybody know of a company who would insure such a combination ?
Thanks
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=63885#63885
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