Kitfox-List Digest Archive

Tue 01/09/07


Total Messages Posted: 20



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 03:24 AM - Re: New Kitfox Videos how do you post vid? (dave)
     2. 07:00 AM - Re: New Kitfox Videos how do you post vid? (Aerobatics@AOL.COM)
     3. 07:40 AM - Re: Broken Skylight (Tinne maha)
     4. 07:42 AM - Re: New Kitfox Videos how do you post vid? (kitfoxmike)
     5. 08:04 AM - Re: Re: Manual or electric trim? (Rueb, Duane)
     6. 08:13 AM - ICOM A-24 Question (off topic) (Nick Scholtes)
     7. 08:33 AM - Kitfox II for sale (Tew, Stan)
     8. 08:39 AM - Re: Re: New Kitfox Videos how do you post vid? (dave)
     9. 09:06 AM - Re: Re: Norwegian Stalls (Larry Martin)
    10. 09:17 AM - Re: Broken Skylight (Tom Jones)
    11. 09:44 AM - Re: Broken Skylight (Tom Jones)
    12. 10:06 AM - LM7805 (Off Topic) (Nick Scholtes)
    13. 02:09 PM - Weight and Balance-KF4 with 912 was Model 4 engine swap (Lyle Persels)
    14. 03:03 PM - Re: Weight and Balance-KF4 with 912 was Model 4 engine swap (kitfoxmike)
    15. 03:11 PM - Re: Weight and Balance-KF4 with 912 was Model 4 engine swap (Randy Daughenbaugh)
    16. 03:24 PM - Re: Re: Weight and Balance-KF4 with 912 was Model 4 engine swap (dave)
    17. 05:08 PM - Re: Re: Weight and Balance-KF4 with 912 was Model 4 engine swap (Noel Loveys)
    18. 05:15 PM - Re: Re: Weight and Balance-KF4 with 912 was Model 4 engine swap (Noel Loveys)
    19. 05:22 PM - Re: Kitfox II for sale (tc9008@aol.com)
    20. 09:44 PM - Re: rims (Dwayne)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 03:24:56 AM PST US
    From: "dave" <dave@cfisher.com>
    Subject: Re: New Kitfox Videos how do you post vid?
    Dave I sent you a mail telling you how. If it all works we will all see more Kitfox movies soon :) Dave ----- Original Message ----- From: Aerobatics@aol.com To: kitfox-list@matronics.com Sent: Monday, January 08, 2007 10:58 PM Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: New Kitfox Videos how do you post vid? In a message dated 1/8/2007 9:27:45 P.M. Central Standard Time, dave@cfisher.com writes: OK I got more done the other day but I only got one put together. http://www.cfisher.com/kitfox/ Jan 7 Kitfox Take offs. The take off run is about 100 feet or so each time maybe +/- 20 feet. What would it do if a swaped for a 914 ? And how does this compare to others? Dave KF IV 582 GSC I watched your ski flying very carefully very cool.... I have a vid from my short runway.... how did you post it? its on my computer... Dave :-)


    Message 2


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    Time: 07:00:30 AM PST US
    From: Aerobatics@AOL.COM
    Subject: Re: New Kitfox Videos how do you post vid?
    Are you in Canada? Gee would be easier if I sent you a CD? Dave :-)


    Message 3


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    Time: 07:40:27 AM PST US
    From: "Tinne maha" <tinnemaha@hotmail.com>
    Subject: Re: Broken Skylight
    I feel pretty dumb admitting it, but I'm pretty sure the (ACRYLIC) skylight broke because I didn't have the back edge (from left wing trailing edge to right wing trailing edge) fastened to the airframe. No problems at all in 12+ hours of flying this way, but as soon as I started the slip (at 65 mph) to the right and 'bang!', it was gone. I'm guessing it started where the back corner is peeled up to allow for wing folding. No explanation as to why the extended slip to the left didn't cause any problem. Any ideas? Grant Time: 06:42:44 AM PST US Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: Broken Skylight From: "Tom Jones" <nahsikhs@elltel.net> Grant, I can remember one case of a kitfox lexan windscreen cracking with a loud bang in flight. It was in winter and the temperature was very cold. With the help of an A&P, the owner drilled and safety wired it together and flew it for another few days that way. Do you have a theory as to why your skylight broke? I gather from your other post that yours is not lexan. Tom Jones _________________________________________________________________ Get FREE Web site and company branded e-mail from Microsoft Office Live


    Message 4


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    Time: 07:42:10 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: New Kitfox Videos how do you post vid?
    From: "kitfoxmike" <kitfoxmike@yahoo.com>
    Dave, Why not post to the web site so everybody can learn how to put video online. I plan on makeing some vids also, just need to get my son out on the flight line to do it. -------- kitfoxmike Do not archive Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=86535#86535


    Message 5


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    Time: 08:04:05 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Manual or electric trim?
    From: "Rueb, Duane" <ruebd@skymail.csus.edu>
    Neal: I am flying a type 5 with Continental IO-240 pulling, and have the electric trim. I find it to be a good system with the addition of the "help me Joe" kit offered by the McBeans. Without the kit, my airplane required too much back pressure on approaches for good control balance, mostly due to the heavy engine and lack of aerodynamic servo in elevator. This was with full trim in. I wouldn't be too concerned about failure of the actuator, if you get the right one, which the McBeans can help you with. Just don't over oil the ball bearing on the brush end of the motor, as this will cause the motor to become balky due to carbon build up on the commutator segments. The main part of the actuator is lifetime lubed, and if you keep the O ring in good condition, you will enjoy good reliable operation for many years. At cruise speeds the trim is touchy, and you will find that very brief pulsing of the switch is all that is required, but when setting up for approach, it will be less twitchy, and on my plane, will neutralize the back pressure with one notch of flap, and almost do it with two notches. When I saw someone building a type 7 using the tab trim, and fixing the stabilizer with a rod where the actuator would be, it occurred to me to consider both systems. Yes, why not? This would give the ability to tune the plane perfectly for however it is loaded, and certainly give enough trim range for any situation. Yes, I know, this also means that the pilots will need to be aware of the set up, and to take care not to get beyond what makes sense for the situation. When cruising, adjust the electric trim so that the tab trim is neutral. This should result in the lowest drag configuration for the horizontal feathers in back, and would certainly allow for setting the angle of incidence of the horizontal surfaces to the ideal setting for the airplane and its loading. Yes, I know, these little planes are not so fast as to need a great deal of tuning, but why not give yourself the chance to tune it in the air since it would be so easy to do? Duane ________________________________ From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of nealscherm@comcast.net Sent: Saturday, January 06, 2007 2:47 PM Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: Manual or electric trim? Hey All, I am working on the manual trim on my series 7 and am not particularly satisfied with the arrangement. I had a Vixen before and I liked the electric trim it used. I am at a point were I could go with either one. Any sugesstions or recomendations? I know there was a problem with the early actuators breaking, but did anyone find one that was satisfactory? All opinions appreciated, Neal


    Message 6


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    Time: 08:13:08 AM PST US
    From: Nick Scholtes <Nick@Scholtes1.com>
    Subject: ICOM A-24 Question (off topic)
    Noel wrote: >Time: 04:15:09 PM PST US >From: "Noel Loveys" <noelloveys@yahoo.ca> >Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: 5V Converter (Off Topic) > > >Do you know of any reason that Icom >not install the same technology in the IC - A24? > >Noel > > > > Noel, No clue on that one..... Nick (Do not archive)


    Message 7


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    Time: 08:33:47 AM PST US
    Subject: Kitfox II for sale
    From: "Tew, Stan" <Stan.Tew@revenue.alabama.gov>
    I have recently purchased a crashed, de-registered Kitfox II. There was an engine failure due to cold seizure of the rear piston of the grey-head 582. I plan to take all the parts to Sun n, Fun this year to be placed in the Fly Market. I will be selling the engine separate from the fuselage which has 1 wing and lift struts. All are in need of repair but are not beyond help. The panel is complete with several instruments for flight & engine operation along with radios. If you are interested in purchasing all or some of these parts feel free to contact me. I will supply photos if you like. Stan Tew in Montgomery Alabama (334) 272-0012 Or Stan_tew@yahoo.com


    Message 8


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    Time: 08:39:59 AM PST US
    From: "dave" <dave@cfisher.com>
    Subject: Re: New Kitfox Videos how do you post vid?
    Ok , it was a private mail so I did not think others would think it was on topic. But here you go .......... Dave ==================================================================== Hi Dave, I could set you up to ftp it to my site or another way i have used is this http://www.megaupload.com/ they have a 500 meg limit. and once you have uploaded it will give you a link to send out . like this http://www.megaupload.com/?d=x88xx9xx <== example only I will guarantee you that alot will not download 300 meg file but who knows. I can d/l it and shrink it alot smaller once you upload it there. Gary Walsh sent me one on floats and it on my site as well but it over 100 meg in dec his movie was d/l 26 times and my ski video over 800 times let me know what you want to do. Dave ===================================================================== ----- Original Message ----- From: "kitfoxmike" <kitfoxmike@yahoo.com> Sent: Tuesday, January 09, 2007 10:40 AM Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: New Kitfox Videos how do you post vid? > > Dave, > Why not post to the web site so everybody can learn how to put video > online. I plan on makeing some vids also, just need to get my son out on > the flight line to do it. > > -------- > kitfoxmike > Do not archive > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=86535#86535 > > >


    Message 9


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    Time: 09:06:18 AM PST US
    From: "Larry Martin" <CrownLJ@verizon.net>
    Subject: Re: Re: Norwegian Stalls
    subject: Re: Re: Norwegian Stalls From: Guy Buchanan (bnn@nethere.com) Date: Mon Jan 08 - 9:12 AM At 05:45 AM 1/8/2007, you wrote: >"....the horizontal stab (and the elevator) will stall too, and the nose >will drop." > > I don't think that this is correct. If the stab was to stall, the nose > will pitch up. aka F101 Voodoo. The stab provides a downward force. The > elevator will loose authority, but again can't stall as the wings do. > Sorry Larry; the stab "lifts" down, particularly with the stick in your lap. It's most definitely possible to stall it too, after all it's only a lifting airfoil. Most stabs don't stall because they're designed not to. Certificated aircraft are designed to stall their wings long before the horizontal stab stalls because were it to be otherwise you would have really horrific landing behavior. (Picture a severe pitch over at flare followed by a negative-g drive into the ground.) Anything's possible in experimental land since many designers push the performance envelope severely. All my experience with my Kitfox, however, indicates quite normal, "certificated" behavior at all angle of attacks. I can even do the "falling leaf" with the stick in my lap. (It really is a falling leaf, since I have very little dihedral and my plane tends to fall off the "bubble" to one side or the other.) Guy, I think that we are saying the same thing - the stab provides downward lift,it is design NOT to stall. If it were to stall, there would be no way to get it flying again, short of a parachute. The F101 Voodoo had a stab placement wherebyit was quite easy to stall. The result was usually the crew ejecting, as the nose would pitch up and the was no way to recover it with the airplane controls. The method was topull the landing drag chute in hope that would point the airplane down again toget air over the tail to get it flying again. Usually there was not enough altitudeto successfully recover. I totally agree with you that most though it is possible to stall the stab, most airplanecan not because of the design. It is impossible to stall the stab in the Kitfox, as you said the wing will stall, which drops the nose due to the center of pressure moving forward. The is no flight regime that you can put the Fox in to stall the stabbefore or after the wing stalls. From Micheal's description, I had the impression that he thought that the nose dropped because the stab stalled. This is not correct. Thenose drops because the center of pressure on the wing moves forward. The stab becomeless efficient or effective with a decrease of speed but does not stall in normalairplanes like the wing does. Is this how you see it?larry ------------------------------------------------------------------------- -------


    Message 10


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    Time: 09:17:26 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Broken Skylight
    From: "Tom Jones" <nahsikhs@elltel.net>
    Grant, I can only make a guess. Something may be different...like propwash, spireling slip stream, amount of power on or off, degree of wing low from one side to the other. It was probably just a matter of time before the skylight blew out and that time came at the same instant you tried the right hand slip. Thanks for sharing your experience. It is one we all can learn from. Tom Jones Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=86572#86572


    Message 11


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    Time: 09:44:20 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Broken Skylight
    From: "Tom Jones" <nahsikhs@elltel.net>
    Grant, Here is some information that may shed some light on what happened. according to this article, when a high wing airplane is in a slip, the upwind wing (the low wing when slipping) has an updraft at the wing root. Here's a link to the article http://www.av8n.com/how/htm/roll.html Tom Jones Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=86579#86579


    Message 12


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    Time: 10:06:53 AM PST US
    From: Nick Scholtes <Nick@Scholtes1.com>
    Subject: LM7805 (Off Topic)
    Ted, You may be right about me underestimating the LM7805's practical ability. Now that you mention it, you're probably right. But, let me explain. I was an analog circuit designer (this is going back 20 years or so!) for a telecommunications company. We were making equipment that had to be highly reliable, to telecom standards, and it had to be designed for lots of "what if" scenario's. So, one of the scenario's was that the air-condtioning would fail inside of the office where the equipment was installed, and the temperature of the office would rise pretty high (over 120F). Plus, the equipment had to last 20 years, and it had to be de-rated such that it had an MTBF (Mean Time Between Failures) that was very high. Plus, we were making a zillion units, so the tolerance of different parts had to be taken into account also. So, all that said, we had to go through this algorithm of taking the ambient temperature, and the airflow over the part, and the thermal coefficient between the case and the junction, and derate the junction so that it would last a long time, etc. etc. etc. So, given all THAT criteria, that's how I came up with my numbers. The numbers are not for the LM7805 specifically, but they are for a generic TO-220 package. I used many many different power devices in that package over the years, and after doing the analysis a zillion times, I came up with generic numbers, which is what you saw in my post. So, you're right, in a "practical" application where the ambient temperature is 80F max and you're only making one of them, and you don't have to derate the part to meet an MTBF, I'm sure you can run it a whole lot closer to it's limit than what I stated. Sorry that I let my "telecom geek" come out! But, I still think that it's worth emphasizing that it is the POWER that is the limit, not the current, so when you say "You can easily draw 400mA from an LM7805", that doesn't say anything about how much power you are dissipating in the part. It's all about the power, not about the current. If you only drop 2V across the part, then sure, you can pull 800mA or maybe an amp without a problem, because it isn't dissipating that much power. Take care. Nick (Do Not Archive) >Time: 04:17:47 PM PST US >From: "TC" <flier@sbcglobal.net> >Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: 5V Converter (Off Topic) do not archive > > >Hey Nick, > >You're understating the 7805's ability! You can easily draw 400mA from an >LM7805 with a small aluminum heatsink, say 2" sq. They're thermally >protected and nearly foolproof. I've never had one fail over the years and I >use them by the dozens in all kinds of supplies. They're all over my shop. > >I power an iPaq 4350 and HX2715 all the time with them. If the PDA draws >less than a half amp a 7805 will work fine. If the PDA requires over an amp >(when the battery is dead or the display is cranked) then maybe another >device would be better. > >Regards, >Ted > >


    Message 13


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    Time: 02:09:49 PM PST US
    From: Lyle Persels <lpers@mchsi.com>
    Subject: Weight and Balance-KF4 with 912 was Model 4 engine swap
    Thanks for all your tips regarding the need to work with the local FSDO after my engine swap. I'm preparing a letter now. According to the specs, the Rotax 912 ULS with which I've replaced my 912 UL weighs 12.5 lbs more than the old engine. Does anyone know the moment arm of the standard installation of the Rotax 912 on a model 4? I'm trying to determine a new W & B without going through a complete new weighing process. Lyle Persels


    Message 14


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    Time: 03:03:10 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Weight and Balance-KF4 with 912 was Model 4 engine swap
    From: "kitfoxmike" <kitfoxmike@yahoo.com>
    Not to be dissapointing. But it really isn't that hard to reweigh the plane after the swap. Usually after a few years of flying we put things in our planes and we take a guess at what it weighs. Just take a bathroom scale and lift up on a wing (at the tips) and have someone slip a scale under the wheel and then do it to the other side. Of course to be more accurate build up the other side with boards to equal the scale. Then level the plane and put the scale on the rear. You just might be supprised at what you get. Oh, one more thing the sportpilot site, I think, has a neat weight and balance program. -------- kitfoxmike Do not archive Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=86647#86647


    Message 15


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    Time: 03:11:35 PM PST US
    From: "Randy Daughenbaugh" <rjdaugh@rapidnet.com>
    Subject: Weight and Balance-KF4 with 912 was Model 4 engine swap
    Lyle, I believe in your owner's manual there is a drawing with that info. I remember digging it out to compare a 912S to a Jab 3300 before I finally decided to go with the 912S. Randy . -----Original Message----- From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lyle Persels Sent: Tuesday, January 09, 2007 3:07 PM Subject: Kitfox-List: Weight and Balance-KF4 with 912 was Model 4 engine swap Thanks for all your tips regarding the need to work with the local FSDO after my engine swap. I'm preparing a letter now. According to the specs, the Rotax 912 ULS with which I've replaced my 912 UL weighs 12.5 lbs more than the old engine. Does anyone know the moment arm of the standard installation of the Rotax 912 on a model 4? I'm trying to determine a new W & B without going through a complete new weighing process. Lyle Persels


    Message 16


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    Time: 03:24:52 PM PST US
    From: "dave" <dave@cfisher.com>
    Subject: Re: Weight and Balance-KF4 with 912 was Model 4 engine
    swap I have to agree with you that you are changing the weight and should do a w & B . It is not complicated and you should know that you are within the C of G range for your aircraft . W & B is only way to do it really. You should do it for every change in weight and moment of anything in your plane. A engine change , especially with a weight difference should be no exception . AS would a prop change. Would really suck if you did not do it and an insurance policy became null and void in the unfortunate event of having to make a claim. Dave ----- Original Message ----- From: "kitfoxmike" <kitfoxmike@yahoo.com> Sent: Tuesday, January 09, 2007 6:02 PM Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: Weight and Balance-KF4 with 912 was Model 4 engine swap > > Not to be dissapointing. But it really isn't that hard to reweigh the > plane after the swap. Usually after a few years of flying we put things > in our planes and we take a guess at what it weighs. Just take a bathroom > scale and lift up on a wing (at the tips) and have someone slip a scale > under the wheel and then do it to the other side. Of course to be more > accurate build up the other side with boards to equal the scale. Then > level the plane and put the scale on the rear. You just might be > supprised at what you get. Oh, one more thing the sportpilot site, I > think, has a neat weight and balance program. > > -------- > kitfoxmike > Do not archive > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=86647#86647 > > >


    Message 17


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    Time: 05:08:52 PM PST US
    From: "Noel Loveys" <noelloveys@yahoo.ca>
    Subject: Re: Weight and Balance-KF4 with 912 was Model 4 engine
    swap The plane should be level for all weighings (tail up). Getting the tail the right height to level the plane can be the biggest problem. Best way is get three identical scales... They're not expensive and they can be calibrated with water jugs... 1 Imp. Gal. = 10 lb. Remember to weigh with no usable fuel ( about 1/2 Gal or so in tank) Oil in engine (4 stroke) and Fluid in radiator ( Liquid cooled)... A good time to clean out the glove box and any cargo slings etc. Readings will be close enough for government work :-) Noel > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com > [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of > kitfoxmike > Sent: Tuesday, January 09, 2007 7:33 PM > To: kitfox-list@matronics.com > Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: Weight and Balance-KF4 with 912 was > Model 4 engine swap > > > > Not to be dissapointing. But it really isn't that hard to > reweigh the plane after the swap. Usually after a few years > of flying we put things in our planes and we take a guess at > what it weighs. Just take a bathroom scale and lift up on a > wing (at the tips) and have someone slip a scale under the > wheel and then do it to the other side. Of course to be more > accurate build up the other side with boards to equal the > scale. Then level the plane and put the scale on the rear. > You just might be supprised at what you get. Oh, one more > thing the sportpilot site, I think, has a neat weight and > balance program. > > -------- > kitfoxmike > Do not archive > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=86647#86647 > > > > > > > > > > >


    Message 18


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    Time: 05:15:47 PM PST US
    From: "Noel Loveys" <noelloveys@yahoo.ca>
    Subject: Re: Weight and Balance-KF4 with 912 was Model 4 engine
    swap I think the Regs (Canada) require that if the weight of the plane changes more than 10% the plane should be re-weighed. On any major weight change it's probably a good idea to re-weigh and make sure the math is in your aircraft log. As has been stated we all add little things to our planes which can in combination cause the W&B to be out. Noel > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com > [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of dave > Sent: Tuesday, January 09, 2007 7:54 PM > To: kitfox-list@matronics.com > Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Re: Weight and Balance-KF4 with 912 > was Model 4 engine swap > > > > I have to agree with you that you are changing the weight > and should do a w > & B . > It is not complicated and you should know that you are within > the C of G > range for your aircraft . > W & B is only way to do it really. You should do it for > every change in > weight and moment of anything in your plane. > A engine change , especially with a weight difference should > be no exception > . AS would a prop change. > > Would really suck if you did not do it and an insurance > policy became null > and void in the unfortunate event of having to make a claim. > > Dave > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "kitfoxmike" <kitfoxmike@yahoo.com> > To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com> > Sent: Tuesday, January 09, 2007 6:02 PM > Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: Weight and Balance-KF4 with 912 was > Model 4 engine > swap > > > <kitfoxmike@yahoo.com> > > > > Not to be dissapointing. But it really isn't that hard to > reweigh the > > plane after the swap. Usually after a few years of flying > we put things > > in our planes and we take a guess at what it weighs. Just > take a bathroom > > scale and lift up on a wing (at the tips) and have someone > slip a scale > > under the wheel and then do it to the other side. Of > course to be more > > accurate build up the other side with boards to equal the > scale. Then > > level the plane and put the scale on the rear. You just might be > > supprised at what you get. Oh, one more thing the > sportpilot site, I > > think, has a neat weight and balance program. > > > > -------- > > kitfoxmike > > Do not archive > > > > > > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=86647#86647 > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > >


    Message 19


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    Time: 05:22:28 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Kitfox II for sale
    From: tc9008@aol.com
    Please send me an email of your inst.panel and price of the items for sale Thanks Travis -----Original Message----- From: Stan.Tew@revenue.alabama.gov Sent: Tue, 9 Jan 2007 11:29 AM Subject: Kitfox-List: Kitfox II for sale I have recently purchased a crashed, de-registered Kitfox II. There was an engine failure due to cold seizure of the rear piston of the grey-head 582. I plan to take all the parts to Sun n, Fun this year to be placed in the Fly Market. I will be selling the engine separate from the fuselage which has 1 wing and lift struts. All are in need of repair but are not beyond help. The panel is complete with several instruments for flight & engine operation along with radios. If you are interested in purchasing all or some of these parts feel free to contact me. I will supply photos if you like. Stan Tew in Montgomery Alabama (334) 272-0012 Or Stan_tew@yahoo.com ________________________________________________________________________


    Message 20


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    Time: 09:44:01 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: rims
    From: "Dwayne" <dwaynemccourt@yahoo.com>
    I believe that Douglas Wheel still make the ones that you are talking about and they're pretty inexpensive. You will have to fabricate and weld the blocks for the rotors though. They were around $30 a while back. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=86715#86715




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