Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:12 AM - Re: Oshkosh Skiplane trip...coming home...OFF TOPIC (kurt schrader)
2. 03:18 AM - Re: High Voltage Indication (kurt schrader)
3. 04:23 AM - Re: High Voltage Indication (Jimmie Blackwell)
4. 04:50 AM - Re: High Voltage Indication (Fox5flyer)
5. 04:57 AM - Re: High Voltage Indication (Bob)
6. 05:27 AM - Re: High Voltage Indication (dave)
7. 05:43 AM - Re: High Voltage Indication (dave)
8. 05:57 AM - Re: High Voltage Indication (Glenn Horne)
9. 06:15 AM - Re: Fuel System Questions=gasolator (Cudnohufsky's)
10. 06:27 AM - sportflight.com (Gill Levesque)
11. 06:34 AM - Re: High Voltage Indication (kerrjohna@comcast.net)
12. 07:05 AM - Re:sportflight.com (Larry Martin)
13. 08:01 AM - Re: High Voltage Indication (Lowell Fitt)
14. 09:14 AM - Re: High Voltage Indication (kurt schrader)
15. 09:40 AM - Re: Fuel flow, summary so far. (Randy Daughenbaugh)
16. 10:30 AM - epoxys (jerry evans)
17. 10:59 AM - Re: epoxys (Bradley M Webb)
18. 11:06 AM - Re: epoxys (Alan Daniels)
19. 11:54 AM - Re: epoxys (Guy Buchanan)
20. 12:15 PM - Re: Fuel flow, summary so far. (Torgeir Mortensen)
21. 03:28 PM - Re: High Voltage Indication (Torgeir Mortensen)
22. 03:49 PM - Re: epoxys (Lowell Fitt)
23. 04:23 PM - Re: epoxys (TC)
24. 04:37 PM - RPM indicators for Rotax engines. (Torgeir Mortensen)
25. 04:47 PM - Re: epoxys (Noel Loveys)
26. 04:52 PM - Re: Fuel flow, summary so far. (Noel Loveys)
27. 05:00 PM - Re: epoxys (Bradley M Webb)
28. 05:07 PM - Re: Fuel flow, summary so far. (Bradley M Webb)
29. 05:23 PM - 912 Choke Actuation Problem (W & R Beck)
30. 05:26 PM - Landing Gear for Kitfox II (Mike)
31. 06:09 PM - Re: Landing Gear for Kitfox II (dave)
32. 06:36 PM - Re: 912 Choke Actuation Problem (Lowell Fitt)
33. 06:42 PM - Re: 912 Choke Actuation Problem (C David Estapa)
34. 07:50 PM - Re: Oshkosh Skiplane trip...coming home...OFF TOPIC (Lynn Matteson)
35. 09:44 PM - Re: Landing Gear for Kitfox II (Alan Daniels)
36. 09:48 PM - Re: Landing Gear for Kitfox II (Alan Daniels)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Oshkosh Skiplane trip...coming home...OFF TOPIC |
Gosh Lynn,
All you missed was having the "You-Pers" (U-Pers?)
blairing in your headset!
Great story!
Kurt S.
Do not archive
Get your own web address.
http://smallbusiness.yahoo.com/domains/?p=BESTDEAL
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: High Voltage Indication |
"Welded" points in the regulator, as has already been
mentioned, is the likely cause. These points will
develope pits on one side and built up points on the
other. Gently prying the points open will show if
that is true. Filing them level will temporarily fix
it until replaced, but they will wear faster when
filed. If you find the points are the problem,
replace ASAP. Some things dont like the high voltage
spikes.
Kurt S. S-5
--- Jimmie Blackwell <JimmieBlackwell@austin.rr.com>
wrote:
> With engine running I normally see about 14 volts
> indicated on the panel meter and pulsating slightly
> if the strobes are on. While flying today I noted
> that the voltage pegged high for awhile and then
> settled back down to normal. A few minutes later
> the volt meter again pegged high, (above 16 volts).
> At that point I turned off the alternator circuit
> and the meter immediately dropped down and showed a
> steady 13-14 volts. Turning the alternator on again
> the volt meter pegged high again, but after awhile
> settled down to normal.
>
> Would appreciate any ideas on what may be causing
> this indication.
>
> Jimmie
> Model IV Speedster, 912 UL
Finding fabulous fares is fun.
Let Yahoo! FareChase search your favorite travel sites to find flight and hotel
bargains.
http://farechase.yahoo.com/promo-generic-14795097
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: High Voltage Indication |
Albert/Kurt
Sounds like a likely source.
Thank you.
----- Original Message -----
From: "kurt schrader" <smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
Sent: Saturday, February 03, 2007 5:17 AM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: High Voltage Indication
> <smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
>
> "Welded" points in the regulator, as has already been
> mentioned, is the likely cause. These points will
> develope pits on one side and built up points on the
> other. Gently prying the points open will show if
> that is true. Filing them level will temporarily fix
> it until replaced, but they will wear faster when
> filed. If you find the points are the problem,
> replace ASAP. Some things dont like the high voltage
> spikes.
>
> Kurt S. S-5
>
> --- Jimmie Blackwell <JimmieBlackwell@austin.rr.com>
> wrote:
>
>> With engine running I normally see about 14 volts
>> indicated on the panel meter and pulsating slightly
>> if the strobes are on. While flying today I noted
>> that the voltage pegged high for awhile and then
>> settled back down to normal. A few minutes later
>> the volt meter again pegged high, (above 16 volts).
>> At that point I turned off the alternator circuit
>> and the meter immediately dropped down and showed a
>> steady 13-14 volts. Turning the alternator on again
>> the volt meter pegged high again, but after awhile
>> settled down to normal.
>>
>> Would appreciate any ideas on what may be causing
>> this indication.
>>
>> Jimmie
>> Model IV Speedster, 912 UL
>
>
> Finding fabulous fares is fun.
> Let Yahoo! FareChase search your favorite travel sites to find flight and
> hotel bargains.
> http://farechase.yahoo.com/promo-generic-14795097
>
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: High Voltage Indication |
Sounds to me like the voltage regulator.
Deke
----- Original Message -----
From: Jimmie Blackwell
To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, February 02, 2007 10:32 PM
Subject: Kitfox-List: High Voltage Indication
With engine running I normally see about 14 volts indicated on the
panel meter and pulsating slightly if the strobes are on. While flying
today I noted that the voltage pegged high for awhile and then settled
back down to normal. A few minutes later the volt meter again pegged
high, (above 16 volts). At that point I turned off the alternator
circuit and the meter immediately dropped down and showed a steady 13-14
volts. Turning the alternator on again the volt meter pegged high
again, but after awhile settled down to normal.
Would appreciate any ideas on what may be causing this indication.
Jimmie
Model IV Speedster, 912 UL
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: High Voltage Indication |
Good suggestions, but the first and easiest step is to check and clean each of
the the alternator and battery connections. If a bit loose or corroded, the regulator
may sense lower voltage (V=IR, with increased R) and try to make up for
it.
Bob
--------
Remember that internet advice may only be worth what you pay.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=92545#92545
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: High Voltage Indication |
912 info overvoltage info you you guys,
Dave
Figure Z-16. Rotax 912/914 System is a "stone simple"
electrical system typical of many aircraft fitted with
permanent magnet alternators. A noteworthy feature in this
figure is the means by which I've added OV protection to the
alternator system. Many airplanes flying with a Rotax 912
have relatively small batteries. Even the limited 18 amps of
alternator output can push the bus voltage up rather quickly
on a small battery. Adding the relay and OV module as
shown provides automatic protection from unobserved
regulator failure.
----- Original Message -----
From: "kurt schrader" <smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
Sent: Saturday, February 03, 2007 6:17 AM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: High Voltage Indication
<smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
"Welded" points in the regulator, as has already been
mentioned, is the likely cause. These points will
develope pits on one side and built up points on the
other. Gently prying the points open will show if
that is true. Filing them level will temporarily fix
it until replaced, but they will wear faster when
filed. If you find the points are the problem,
replace ASAP. Some things dont like the high voltage
spikes.
Kurt S. S-5
--- Jimmie Blackwell <JimmieBlackwell@austin.rr.com>
wrote:
> With engine running I normally see about 14 volts
> indicated on the panel meter and pulsating slightly
> if the strobes are on. While flying today I noted
> that the voltage pegged high for awhile and then
> settled back down to normal. A few minutes later
> the volt meter again pegged high, (above 16 volts).
> At that point I turned off the alternator circuit
> and the meter immediately dropped down and showed a
> steady 13-14 volts. Turning the alternator on again
> the volt meter pegged high again, but after awhile
> settled down to normal.
>
> Would appreciate any ideas on what may be causing
> this indication.
>
> Jimmie
> Model IV Speedster, 912 UL
Finding fabulous fares is fun.
Let Yahoo! FareChase search your favorite travel sites to find flight and
hotel bargains.
http://farechase.yahoo.com/promo-generic-14795097
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: High Voltage Indication |
Sorry, I forgot the link
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/Rev11/AppZ_R11J.pdf
----- Original Message -----
From: "dave" <dave@cfisher.com>
Sent: Saturday, February 03, 2007 8:24 AM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: High Voltage Indication
912 info overvoltage info you you guys,
Dave
Figure Z-16. Rotax 912/914 System is a "stone simple"
electrical system typical of many aircraft fitted with
permanent magnet alternators. A noteworthy feature in this
figure is the means by which I've added OV protection to the
alternator system. Many airplanes flying with a Rotax 912
have relatively small batteries. Even the limited 18 amps of
alternator output can push the bus voltage up rather quickly
on a small battery. Adding the relay and OV module as
shown provides automatic protection from unobserved
regulator failure.
----- Original Message -----
From: "kurt schrader" <smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
Sent: Saturday, February 03, 2007 6:17 AM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: High Voltage Indication
<smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
"Welded" points in the regulator, as has already been
mentioned, is the likely cause. These points will
develope pits on one side and built up points on the
other. Gently prying the points open will show if
that is true. Filing them level will temporarily fix
it until replaced, but they will wear faster when
filed. If you find the points are the problem,
replace ASAP. Some things dont like the high voltage
spikes.
Kurt S. S-5
--- Jimmie Blackwell <JimmieBlackwell@austin.rr.com>
wrote:
> With engine running I normally see about 14 volts
> indicated on the panel meter and pulsating slightly
> if the strobes are on. While flying today I noted
> that the voltage pegged high for awhile and then
> settled back down to normal. A few minutes later
> the volt meter again pegged high, (above 16 volts).
> At that point I turned off the alternator circuit
> and the meter immediately dropped down and showed a
> steady 13-14 volts. Turning the alternator on again
> the volt meter pegged high again, but after awhile
> settled down to normal.
>
> Would appreciate any ideas on what may be causing
> this indication.
>
> Jimmie
> Model IV Speedster, 912 UL
Finding fabulous fares is fun.
Let Yahoo! FareChase search your favorite travel sites to find flight and
hotel bargains.
http://farechase.yahoo.com/promo-generic-14795097
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: High Voltage Indication |
Had the same problem with my Key West regulator and it blew off the
firewall.
Called Key West manufacture and they have had problem with the older
models
regulators. The compactor inside is suppose to be vented to the
atmosphere.
If yours is a Key West give them a call and they will re-place it free.
Glenn Horne
Model II 582 ----- Original Message -----
From: Jimmie Blackwell
To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, February 02, 2007 10:32 PM
Subject: Kitfox-List: High Voltage Indication
With engine running I normally see about 14 volts indicated on the
panel meter and pulsating slightly if the strobes are on. While flying
today I noted that the voltage pegged high for awhile and then settled
back down to normal. A few minutes later the volt meter again pegged
high, (above 16 volts). At that point I turned off the alternator
circuit and the meter immediately dropped down and showed a steady 13-14
volts. Turning the alternator on again the volt meter pegged high
again, but after awhile settled down to normal.
Would appreciate any ideas on what may be causing this indication.
Jimmie
Model IV Speedster, 912 UL
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel System Questions=gasolator |
Kurt & Deke,
Thank You for your replys, I have decided not to install a gascolator (which
is how the system was when I recieved it), keeping the fuel system as clean
and simple as possible.
Lloyd
Do Not Archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "kurt schrader" <smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
Sent: Friday, February 02, 2007 2:37 PM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Fuel System Questions=gasolator
> <smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
>
> The gascolator will pass whatever is on top. As long
> as there isn't enough water to fill it, you should get
> fuel. But more water than that and it will pass
> water. Of course there is some stiring going on, so
> something less than a full gascolator cup will start
> passing some water.
>
> Since my gascolator drain blew out in flight 2 years
> ago on my S-5, I think it is more a danger than a help
> to me.
>
> The good news is that my engine kept running at cruise
> power, but higher EGT, so the fuel to the engine was
> maintained, even with a quarter inch hole in the
> gascolator and a fuel flow of way over 10 gph, half at
> least blowing overboard.
>
> I intend to take all the components of the fuel system
> not necessary and put them on the cabin side of the
> firewall. Opposite of my origional feelings on this
> one. Bigger fire potential on the front side.
>
> I will take out the gascolator and use the header
> tank. The header tank will probably have a front
> feed, rear drain for emptying the plane quickly, and a
> bottom quick drain for fuel samples only. I keep
> destroying my quick drain O rings using them to drain.
>
> I need one final filter up front somewhere, but
> haven't decided where yet. The intent is to have all
> flow going up to the engine after the header so there
> are no air or water traps enroute. The header will
> trap water and sediment and any air should flow up to
> the main tanks or be bled out of the engine, once fuel
> is added.
>
> Having the gascolater where mine was made more top and
> bottom points on my fuel system than I liked, and
> added a source of fuel leakage 4 inches from my
> exhaust. Also it made another place for vapor lock to
> occur. Cleaning this all up will make me feel safer,
> at least.
Message 10
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Can someone tell me what happened to sportflight .com ,s database page?
Gil Levesque
---------------------------------
All new Yahoo! Mail
---------------------------------
Get news delivered. Enjoy RSS feeds right on your Mail page.
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: High Voltage Indication |
voltage regulator going, going, gone south....
It happened to me over the backwoods of Idaho. I coaxed it back to civilization
and ordered a replacement from Lockwood.
John Kerr
-------------- Original message --------------
From: "Jimmie Blackwell" <JimmieBlackwell@austin.rr.com>
With engine running I normally see about 14 volts indicated on the panel meter
and pulsating slightly if the strobes are on. While flying today I noted that
the voltage pegged high for awhile and then settled back down to normal. A
few minutes later the volt meter again pegged high, (above 16 volts). At that
point I turned off the alternator circuit and the meter immediately dropped down
and showed a steady 13-14 volts. Turning the alternator on again the volt
meter pegged high again, but after awhile settled down to normal.
Would appreciate any ideas on what may be causing this indication.
Jimmie
Model IV Speedster, 912 UL
<html><body>
<DIV>voltage regulator going, going, gone south....</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>It happened to me over the backwoods of Idaho. I coaxed it back to civilization
and ordered a replacement from Lockwood.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>John Kerr</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #1010ff 2px
solid">-------------- Original message -------------- <BR>From: "Jimmie Blackwell"
<JimmieBlackwell@austin.rr.com> <BR>
<META content="MSHTML 6.00.5730.11" name=GENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>With engine running I normally see about 14 volts
indicated on the panel meter and pulsating slightly if the strobes are on.
While flying today I noted that the voltage pegged high for awhile and then
settled back down to normal. A few minutes later the volt meter again
pegged high, (above 16 volts). At that point I turned off the alternator
circuit and the meter immediately dropped down and showed a steady 13-14
volts. Turning the alternator on again the volt meter pegged high again,
but after awhile settled down to normal.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Would appreciate any ideas on what may be causing
this indication.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Jimmie</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Model IV Speedster, 912 UL</FONT></DIV><PRE><B><FONT
face="courier new,courier" size=2 color000000?>
</B></FONT></PRE></BLOCKQUOTE>
<pre><b><font size=2 color="#000000" face="courier new,courier">
</b></font></pre></body></html>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re:sportflight.com |
----- Original Message -----
From: Larry Martin
Sent: Wednesday, January 31, 2007 7:10 AM
Subject: Re: pictures, files, etc
Thanks Don,
Don't be sorry! You are providing us a great service!
Thank you for your time,
larry
----- Original Message -----
From: Don Pearsall
To: 'Larry Martin'
Sent: Tuesday, January 30, 2007 8:21 PM
Subject: RE: pictures, files, etc
Larry, the problem is mine. I recently moved all my web files to
another web host and have not done the programming to get it all working
yet. I will get it done within a few days.
Sorry,
Don
Don Pearsall
Sound Appraisal
Seattle, WA USA
425-392.4627
FAX 425-557-0107
donpearsall@comcast.net
http://www.soundappraisal.com
From: Larry Martin [mailto:CrownLJ@verizon.net]
Sent: Tuesday, January 30, 2007 6:15 PM
To: donpearsall@comcast.net
Subject: pictures, files, etc
Hi Don,
I went to the old site "Sportflight" to look for some of the past
files/picture of modifications and got this error "
Not Found
The requested URL /cgi-bin/uploader.pl was not found on this server "
I guess I haven't kept up to where everything was moved too? Can you
please assist?
Thanks for your time,
Larry Martin
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: High Voltage Indication |
Sorry, no joy here, the 912 has a generator and no points in the regualtor.
Lowell
----- Original Message -----
From: "kurt schrader" <smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
Sent: Saturday, February 03, 2007 3:17 AM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: High Voltage Indication
> <smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
>
> "Welded" points in the regulator, as has already been
> mentioned, is the likely cause. These points will
> develope pits on one side and built up points on the
> other. Gently prying the points open will show if
> that is true. Filing them level will temporarily fix
> it until replaced, but they will wear faster when
> filed. If you find the points are the problem,
> replace ASAP. Some things dont like the high voltage
> spikes.
>
> Kurt S. S-5
>
> --- Jimmie Blackwell <JimmieBlackwell@austin.rr.com>
> wrote:
>
>> With engine running I normally see about 14 volts
>> indicated on the panel meter and pulsating slightly
>> if the strobes are on. While flying today I noted
>> that the voltage pegged high for awhile and then
>> settled back down to normal. A few minutes later
>> the volt meter again pegged high, (above 16 volts).
>> At that point I turned off the alternator circuit
>> and the meter immediately dropped down and showed a
>> steady 13-14 volts. Turning the alternator on again
>> the volt meter pegged high again, but after awhile
>> settled down to normal.
>>
>> Would appreciate any ideas on what may be causing
>> this indication.
>>
>> Jimmie
>> Model IV Speedster, 912 UL
>
>
> Finding fabulous fares is fun.
> Let Yahoo! FareChase search your favorite travel sites to find flight and
> hotel bargains.
> http://farechase.yahoo.com/promo-generic-14795097
>
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: High Voltage Indication |
Thanks lowell,
The old points systems were not as reliable, but you
could temp fix them with a fingernail file until you
got home. Something gained, something lost.
If not a bad connection as Rob says, a change is
required. Hopefully the free replacement mentioned
for the bad capacitor???
Kurt S.
Do not archive
--- Lowell Fitt <lcfitt@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> Sorry, no joy here, the 912 has a generator and no
> points in the regualtor.
>
> Lowell
Don't pick lemons.
See all the new 2007 cars at Yahoo! Autos.
http://autos.yahoo.com/new_cars.html
Message 15
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| Subject: | Fuel flow, summary so far. |
"And this one, let's say that the left only have say 5 Gallon and the pilot
make some left turns -airwork, observations who knows.
I've always search for the worst case just to clarify or.. justify.."
Torgeir
Hey Torgeir,
I always fly coordinated (Yah, You betcha, sure...), so it doesn't matter
if I am turning right or left or flying straight. The situation you refer
to only applies to slips or skids.
Thanks for the drawings and discussion. Also thanks to Lowell and Guy for
the head pressure calculations. This helps educate all of us on the list!
Randy - Fuel tank caps now part of preflight!
Message 16
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What is the filler that you mix with the system three t-88 structural adhesive
to hold in vertical places not to sag while curing?
Jerry Evans
kitfox 555
Message 17
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Can you use baby/talcum powder? Cheap and easy. All you need to do is
thicken the mixture.
DO NOT use micro-balloons. While they do the job perfectly, you cannot
breathe them in. Huge lung problems.
Bradley
_____
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of jerry evans
Sent: Saturday, February 03, 2007 1:30 PM
Subject: Kitfox-List: epoxys
What is the filler that you mix with the system three t-88 structural
adhesive to hold in vertical places not to sag while curing?
Jerry Evans
kitfox 555 <http://us.i1.yimg.com/us.yimg.com/i/mesg/tsmileys2/04.gif>
Message 18
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micro or flox depending on what you are doing. Micro is light and easy
to work with but not as strong, flox adds strength but sands like concrete.
jerry evans wrote:
> What is the filler that you mix with the system three t-88 structural
> adhesive to hold in vertical places not to sag while curing?
>
>
> Jerry Evans
> kitfox 555
> *
>
>
> *
Message 19
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At 10:29 AM 2/3/2007, you wrote:
>What is the filler that you mix with the system three t-88
>structural adhesive to hold in vertical places not to sag while curing?
Depends on what you're doing. First, Bradley's right, wear a good
mask when using any of these as none of them are great for your lungs
or nasal passages.
1. Microballoons. (Ceramic, glass, Q-cel, phenolic) Decreases
compression strength a little and tensile and shear strength a lot.
Medium-easy to sand. They make a putty but do NOT increase the
viscosity, meaning that your fillet still sags, it just happens
slower than pure resin. These are mainly used to extend resin, though
a lot of people use them to make fairing putties. I don't recommend the latter.
2. Chopped glass / carbon / boron. Increases compression strength a
little and tensile and shear strength a lot. Hard to sand. Does not
increase viscosity. (See above.) Note that these fibers are fairly
long, on the order of inches.
3. Milled fiber. Same as chopped but much shorter fibers for a more
putty like consistency. Used for structural fillets.
4. Cotton Flock. Increases tensile and shear strength a little. Also
increases viscosity, making a fillet that stays in place. Hard to sand.
5. Colloidal Silica or Cab-0-Sil. These increase viscosity, making a
putty that stays in place. I'm not sure about their strength
properties. They're also sandable.
6. Talc. Used to make a cheap sanding filler. Non-structural.
7. West System's 409 Micro-Lite. This is the best sandable putty I've
ever used. It was used extensively in the America's Cup before they
went to female molds for the boats. Non-structural
There's zillions more associated with non-skid, fire retardance, UV
protection, etc.
Guy Buchanan
K-IV 1200 / 582-C / Warp / 100% done, thanks mostly to Bob Ducar.
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel flow, summary so far. |
Hi Randy,
Sure you're sooo right, it's so easy to forget the most elementary things..
I've also trying to be coordinated, but..
Thanks Randy.
Cheers
Torgeir
On Sat, 03 Feb 2007 18:38:24 +0100, Randy Daughenbaugh
<rjdaugh@rapidnet.com> wrote:
> <rjdaugh@rapidnet.com>
>
>
> "And this one, let's say that the left only have say 5 Gallon and the
> pilot
> make some left turns -airwork, observations who knows.
> I've always search for the worst case just to clarify or.. justify.."
> Torgeir
>
>
> Hey Torgeir,
> I always fly coordinated (Yah, You betcha, sure...), so it doesn't
> matter
> if I am turning right or left or flying straight. The situation you
> refer
> to only applies to slips or skids.
>
> Thanks for the drawings and discussion. Also thanks to Lowell and Guy
> for
> the head pressure calculations. This helps educate all of us on the
> list!
>
> Randy - Fuel tank caps now part of preflight!
>
>
--
Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: High Voltage Indication |
Hi Jimmie,
Interesting, this one.
As many already said, this system is a "permanent magnet generator"
system, well -if you do not have the "optional alternator system" with
this fault.. :)
Anyhow, this is the charging system that's found in all of the Rotax
engines, even the smallest of them..
The (big?) benefit of this system -over the standard alternator setup is
this(I'll belive); this system do not need any excitation voltage to come
alive. So, if your battery is completely dead and you manage to start your
engine, this system start to deliver power anytime the engine is running.
Yes, -as all the others out there I'll agree this might be the
rectifier-regulator that's fails "now and then".
But, don't throw away your old regulator yet, -cause I do believe there is
a spare circuit inside this box! Why you might ask, well remember this
unit is born as a three phase unit -and most probably contain one more SCR
(silicone controlled rectifier) unit that's working OK.
Now remember this regulator contain three yellow input wires, and one of
them is never in use, so you'll have two more combination to try -and one
of them probably give you a new regulator..
This depend a little if there is one zener for each phase, or if it just
one zener for all three phases -then bad luck, if it is the zener that's
the problem, bad luck.
Over the yrs. most of the problems like this is due to a faulty zener
(diode), but sometimes other parts fails. So, make a try!
Just something general about this system; This regulator shunt the
alternator if the voltage arise above the preset voltage (close to 14
volt), then the SCR short all the way until the current cross the "zero"
line, then it's ready for a new shot (half period). So you see, this
system work with full load all the time, even when your battery is fully
charged or all empty.
Here's a link to tympanium corp., the producer of those regulators:
I'll think the design tip is worth reading.
http://www.tympanium.com/index.html
Here's another one, a complete schematic, for those who want to build your
own one -go for diodes and SCR's handling 40 Amp's and this never fails,
:) , experimental -yes :) :
http://www.takisnet.org/~abayko/vreg.pdf
You know, I've often heard lot's of good thing about Key West rectifier
regulator, but folks where can we find some more facts about this
regulator, -as is this a serial regulator (?), or is this just another
shunt rectifier-regulator?
Why do I ask like this, well - (see my next posting).
Keep up the good work, and good luck.
Torgeir.
On Sat, 03 Feb 2007 04:32:40 +0100, Jimmie Blackwell
<JimmieBlackwell@austin.rr.com> wrote:
> With engine running I normally see about 14 volts indicated on the panel
> meter and pulsating slightly if the strobes are on. While flying today
> I noted that the voltage pegged high for awhile and then settled back
> down to normal. A few minutes later the volt meter again pegged high,
> (above 16 volts). At that point I turned off the alternator circuit and
> the meter immediately dropped down and showed a steady 13-14 volts.
> Turning the alternator on again the volt meter pegged high again, but
> after awhile settled down to normal.
>
> Would appreciate any ideas on what may be causing this indication.
>
> Jimmie
> Model IV Speedster, 912 UL
--
Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/
Message 22
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Hi, Bradley,
In the Lancari project I have been helping with we have used a "ton" of
mircroballoons. I have been monitering the Lancari list for two years and
this if the first time I have read "NO NOT" with regard to microballoons. I
spent some time on Google trying to find a MSDS on microballoons wothout
success. Can you elaberate on it's hazards and maybe stear me to a MSDS.
Lowell
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bradley M Webb" <bmwebb@cox.net>
Sent: Saturday, February 03, 2007 10:59 AM
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: epoxys
> Can you use baby/talcum powder? Cheap and easy. All you need to do is
> thicken the mixture.
>
>
> DO NOT use micro-balloons. While they do the job perfectly, you cannot
> breathe them in. Huge lung problems.
>
>
> Bradley
>
>
> _____
>
> From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of jerry evans
> Sent: Saturday, February 03, 2007 1:30 PM
> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Kitfox-List: epoxys
>
>
> What is the filler that you mix with the system three t-88 structural
> adhesive to hold in vertical places not to sag while curing?
>
>
> Jerry Evans
> kitfox 555 <http://us.i1.yimg.com/us.yimg.com/i/mesg/tsmileys2/04.gif>
>
>
>
Message 23
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Use cotton flox to thicken structural adhesive.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lowell Fitt
Sent: Saturday, February 03, 2007 5:48 PM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: epoxys
Hi, Bradley,
In the Lancari project I have been helping with we have used a "ton" of
mircroballoons. I have been monitering the Lancari list for two years and
this if the first time I have read "NO NOT" with regard to microballoons. I
spent some time on Google trying to find a MSDS on microballoons wothout
success. Can you elaberate on it's hazards and maybe stear me to a MSDS.
Lowell
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bradley M Webb" <bmwebb@cox.net>
Sent: Saturday, February 03, 2007 10:59 AM
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: epoxys
> Can you use baby/talcum powder? Cheap and easy. All you need to do is
> thicken the mixture.
>
>
> DO NOT use micro-balloons. While they do the job perfectly, you cannot
> breathe them in. Huge lung problems.
>
>
> Bradley
>
>
> _____
>
> From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of jerry evans
> Sent: Saturday, February 03, 2007 1:30 PM
> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Kitfox-List: epoxys
>
>
> What is the filler that you mix with the system three t-88 structural
> adhesive to hold in vertical places not to sag while curing?
>
>
> Jerry Evans
> kitfox 555 <http://us.i1.yimg.com/us.yimg.com/i/mesg/tsmileys2/04.gif>
>
>
>
Message 24
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| Subject: | RPM indicators for Rotax engines. |
Hi there,
For a long time, I've been looking into this RPM problem related to our
Rotax engines.
You know, I've had it, on my "very" old (sorry lady), engine setup.
Well, this RPM indication problem is NOT related to the "simple" Rotax RPM
indicator!
Hey, this very same principle is used in the most reliable RPM setups we
know about out there!
There is only two wires going into the RPM indicator, just a signal and no
power(?).
OK., since the signal is just an alternating voltage, we simply "steal" a
little of this energy for the indicator, using a full wave (or half wave)
rectifier for power, then we measure the RPM(frequency) of this
alternating voltage, you see, -simple.
The thing is that our "well known" charging system is the problem!
Before any protest here, ( :) ); Try this:
Make sure that you can see the problem, yes -your RPM indicator is reading
to low (as always -and normal)! This might be confirmed with the hand
hold optical device.
Now, discharge your battery a little (well -make sure there's enough juice
for a restart of the engine), start your engine, switch on a little of the
load that you have, LDG lights etc. -if necessary.
What kind of RPM reading do you see now? Right, normal - but how can this
be?
This is something we'll discuss, but first some confirmation, from those
with the problem..
Torgeir.
--
Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/
Message 25
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The only place I used a filler in epoxy was on my boat. What I found is
filling with silicon made a much harder finish. Sanding was much harder
than the micro balloons but it can be applied so very little sanding was
necessary.
Noel
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> Lowell Fitt
> Sent: Saturday, February 03, 2007 8:18 PM
> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: epoxys
>
>
> <lcfitt@sbcglobal.net>
>
> Hi, Bradley,
>
> In the Lancari project I have been helping with we have used
> a "ton" of
> mircroballoons. I have been monitering the Lancari list for
> two years and
> this if the first time I have read "NO NOT" with regard to
> microballoons. I
> spent some time on Google trying to find a MSDS on
> microballoons wothout
> success. Can you elaberate on it's hazards and maybe stear
> me to a MSDS.
>
> Lowell
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bradley M Webb" <bmwebb@cox.net>
> To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Saturday, February 03, 2007 10:59 AM
> Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: epoxys
>
>
> > Can you use baby/talcum powder? Cheap and easy. All you
> need to do is
> > thicken the mixture.
> >
> >
> >
> > DO NOT use micro-balloons. While they do the job perfectly,
> you cannot
> > breathe them in. Huge lung problems.
> >
> >
> >
> > Bradley
> >
> >
> >
> > _____
> >
> > From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf
> Of jerry evans
> > Sent: Saturday, February 03, 2007 1:30 PM
> > To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
> > Subject: Kitfox-List: epoxys
> >
> >
> >
> > What is the filler that you mix with the system three t-88
> structural
> > adhesive to hold in vertical places not to sag while curing?
> >
> >
> >
> > Jerry Evans
> > kitfox 555
> <http://us.i1.yimg.com/us.yimg.com/i/mesg/tsmileys2/04.gif>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
Message 26
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| Subject: | Fuel flow, summary so far. |
After spending quite a few hours contemplating the turn co-ordinator in my
plane I read the best way to fly co-ordinated was to try to feel the
movements in the controls through, for lack of a better term, your derriere.
I tried on a couple of flights and it is remarkable just how well you can
co-ordinate "by the seat of your pants".
Noel
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> Torgeir Mortensen
> Sent: Saturday, February 03, 2007 4:45 PM
> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Fuel flow, summary so far.
>
>
> <torgemor@online.no>
>
> Hi Randy,
>
> Sure you're sooo right, it's so easy to forget the most
> elementary things..
>
> I've also trying to be coordinated, but..
>
> Thanks Randy.
>
> Cheers
>
> Torgeir
>
>
> On Sat, 03 Feb 2007 18:38:24 +0100, Randy Daughenbaugh
> <rjdaugh@rapidnet.com> wrote:
>
> > <rjdaugh@rapidnet.com>
> >
> >
> > "And this one, let's say that the left only have say 5
> Gallon and the
> > pilot
> > make some left turns -airwork, observations who knows.
> > I've always search for the worst case just to clarify or..
> justify.."
> > Torgeir
> >
> >
> > Hey Torgeir,
> > I always fly coordinated (Yah, You betcha, sure...), so it
> doesn't
> > matter
> > if I am turning right or left or flying straight. The
> situation you
> > refer
> > to only applies to slips or skids.
> >
> > Thanks for the drawings and discussion. Also thanks to
> Lowell and Guy
> > for
> > the head pressure calculations. This helps educate all of
> us on the
> > list!
> >
> > Randy - Fuel tank caps now part of preflight!
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
> --
> Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/
>
>
>
>
>
Message 27
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I'll have to do some searching. A few years ago, the subject came up in the
RC model world, as microballoons are very popular in that hobby. At the
moment, I can't back that up with paper, but I do remember that the result
of that discussion was that the small glass beads are like breathing diamond
dust, and really chews up the lining in the lungs, a similar thing to what
happened to miners years back with no protection.
I'll see if I can find anything.
Bradley
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lowell Fitt
Sent: Saturday, February 03, 2007 6:48 PM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: epoxys
Hi, Bradley,
In the Lancari project I have been helping with we have used a "ton" of
mircroballoons. I have been monitering the Lancari list for two years and
this if the first time I have read "NO NOT" with regard to microballoons. I
spent some time on Google trying to find a MSDS on microballoons wothout
success. Can you elaberate on it's hazards and maybe stear me to a MSDS.
Lowell
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bradley M Webb" <bmwebb@cox.net>
Sent: Saturday, February 03, 2007 10:59 AM
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: epoxys
> Can you use baby/talcum powder? Cheap and easy. All you need to do is
> thicken the mixture.
>
>
> DO NOT use micro-balloons. While they do the job perfectly, you cannot
> breathe them in. Huge lung problems.
>
>
> Bradley
>
>
> _____
>
> From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of jerry evans
> Sent: Saturday, February 03, 2007 1:30 PM
> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Kitfox-List: epoxys
>
>
> What is the filler that you mix with the system three t-88 structural
> adhesive to hold in vertical places not to sag while curing?
>
>
> Jerry Evans
> kitfox 555 <http://us.i1.yimg.com/us.yimg.com/i/mesg/tsmileys2/04.gif>
>
>
>
Message 28
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| Subject: | Fuel flow, summary so far. |
I've heard that some pilots are very sensitive to that feeling. I, myself,
find it a little hard to judge. Not sure why, just could never really rely
on my ass to push the rudders.
Now, the Lancair IV my buddy just finished, I can feel a hair's width of
slip in that thing. Again, I don't know why, but he once almost made me
sick, it was yawing so much. No problem keeping that one centered by touch.
My 'fox flies like yours, but for me it seems a little hard to get centered
by feel. I think it may be due to the fact I am a Cessna baby, and the
rudders on those hardly work at all (at least in comparison to a 'fox). So,
I probably didn't really learn to feel it in my initial training.
Bradley
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Noel Loveys
Sent: Saturday, February 03, 2007 7:53 PM
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Fuel flow, summary so far.
After spending quite a few hours contemplating the turn co-ordinator in my
plane I read the best way to fly co-ordinated was to try to feel the
movements in the controls through, for lack of a better term, your derriere.
I tried on a couple of flights and it is remarkable just how well you can
co-ordinate "by the seat of your pants".
Noel
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> Torgeir Mortensen
> Sent: Saturday, February 03, 2007 4:45 PM
> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Fuel flow, summary so far.
>
>
> <torgemor@online.no>
>
> Hi Randy,
>
> Sure you're sooo right, it's so easy to forget the most
> elementary things..
>
> I've also trying to be coordinated, but..
>
> Thanks Randy.
>
> Cheers
>
> Torgeir
>
>
> On Sat, 03 Feb 2007 18:38:24 +0100, Randy Daughenbaugh
> <rjdaugh@rapidnet.com> wrote:
>
> > <rjdaugh@rapidnet.com>
> >
> >
> > "And this one, let's say that the left only have say 5
> Gallon and the
> > pilot
> > make some left turns -airwork, observations who knows.
> > I've always search for the worst case just to clarify or..
> justify.."
> > Torgeir
> >
> >
> > Hey Torgeir,
> > I always fly coordinated (Yah, You betcha, sure...), so it
> doesn't
> > matter
> > if I am turning right or left or flying straight. The
> situation you
> > refer
> > to only applies to slips or skids.
> >
> > Thanks for the drawings and discussion. Also thanks to
> Lowell and Guy
> > for
> > the head pressure calculations. This helps educate all of
> us on the
> > list!
> >
> > Randy - Fuel tank caps now part of preflight!
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
> --
> Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/
>
>
>
>
>
Message 29
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| Subject: | 912 Choke Actuation Problem |
Folks:
A quick question: I have a friend with a completed Classic IV who is
getting close to first engine start. Recently we have been going over
his Rotax 912 installation with a fine tooth comb. Today we tackled his
cockpit mounted 'choke' (enrichener) control, which had I noticed is
extremely difficult to pull, and hold, out (choke ON). It is set up to
the right of the throttle and has quite a small knob. Skystar supplied.
At first I suspected his cable routing or binding in the cables but they
sure looked alright, with relatively gentle bends to each carb. Next we
disconnected the choke lever return springs at each carb. MUCH easier
but still not baby-smooth. Then we disconnected the cables from the
choke levers on the carbs. The levers are free and not binding in any
way.
We buttoned it all back up, adjusted the throws so each lever is being
pulled equally through its entire stroke, attached the springs and, man,
that choke control seems to take 50+lbs or more of force to actuate.
Those 2 little return springs add up to powerful resistance. In fact, my
friend cannot pull it out and needs to grab it with a wrench. I am
pretty beefy and I can pull it out but it seems like way too much effort
to do so and too much effort to hold it out. Part of the problem is the
very small knob on the control supplied by Skystar. If it were the size
of a ping-pong ball it would be much easier.
Since his basic installation seems sound, done and modified per Skystar,
and no individual items in the system seem to be binding, it got me
wondering if others have run into the same problem. Do you need to be a
gorilla to actuate the choke? Anything to suggest or a modification to
make? How do you 912 drivers handle starting with the right hand all
taken up straining at the choke?
Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Robert Beck
Go Bears!
Message 30
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| Subject: | Landing Gear for Kitfox II |
I am rebuilding a badly damaged KitFox II, S/N 89. One of the
problems is that the right landing gear was partially rebuilt, and is
not the same as the left landing gear, which was undamaged. I would
like to avoid building a jig to make a new gear, and wondered if
anyone had a gear available, and in good condition. I don't need the
tire, wheel, or brakes. Alternatively, does anyone have a drawing,
sketch, or the necessary dimensions to allow me to make a new one?
Mike
Message 31
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| Subject: | Re: Landing Gear for Kitfox II |
Mike,
First I would contact John Mc Bean as he might be able to make you one.
secondly if that fails I will get you some measurements possibly from
blueprints I have for a Kitfox 1 clone.
thirdly I can build you one if it the same. I have most jigs for the KF 1
Clone .
Dave
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike" <mclayton@rochester.rr.com>
Sent: Saturday, February 03, 2007 8:26 PM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Landing Gear for Kitfox II
>
> I am rebuilding a badly damaged KitFox II, S/N 89. One of the problems
> is that the right landing gear was partially rebuilt, and is not the same
> as the left landing gear, which was undamaged. I would like to avoid
> building a jig to make a new gear, and wondered if anyone had a gear
> available, and in good condition. I don't need the tire, wheel, or
> brakes. Alternatively, does anyone have a drawing, sketch, or the
> necessary dimensions to allow me to make a new one?
>
> Mike
>
>
>
Message 32
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| Subject: | Re: 912 Choke Actuation Problem |
Hey, what's this go Bears stuff - just kidding.
The choke is a tough one. I'll tell you what I did. First, I drilled a
hole throught the base of the knob and threadded a key ring through that. A
finger through the ring gives a much better purchase. Another thing I did
was to take a piece of Nylaflow tubing - some really fine stuff and slit it
with a Dremel type cut off wheel and threaded it into the bent tubes with
the unslit - good side toward the bend. All in all the ring was the hand
saver.
Lowell
----- Original Message -----
From: "W & R Beck" <trevorkebb@earthlink.net>
Sent: Saturday, February 03, 2007 5:23 PM
Subject: Kitfox-List: 912 Choke Actuation Problem
Folks:
A quick question: I have a friend with a completed Classic IV who is getting
close to first engine start. Recently we have been going over his Rotax 912
installation with a fine tooth comb. Today we tackled his cockpit mounted
'choke' (enrichener) control, which had I noticed is extremely difficult to
pull, and hold, out (choke ON). It is set up to the right of the throttle
and has quite a small knob. Skystar supplied. At first I suspected his cable
routing or binding in the cables but they sure looked alright, with
relatively gentle bends to each carb. Next we disconnected the choke lever
return springs at each carb. MUCH easier but still not baby-smooth. Then we
disconnected the cables from the choke levers on the carbs. The levers are
free and not binding in any way.
We buttoned it all back up, adjusted the throws so each lever is being
pulled equally through its entire stroke, attached the springs and, man,
that choke control seems to take 50+lbs or more of force to actuate. Those 2
little return springs add up to powerful resistance. In fact, my friend
cannot pull it out and needs to grab it with a wrench. I am pretty beefy and
I can pull it out but it seems like way too much effort to do so and too
much effort to hold it out. Part of the problem is the very small knob on
the control supplied by Skystar. If it were the size of a ping-pong ball it
would be much easier.
Since his basic installation seems sound, done and modified per Skystar, and
no individual items in the system seem to be binding, it got me wondering if
others have run into the same problem. Do you need to be a gorilla to
actuate the choke? Anything to suggest or a modification to make? How do you
912 drivers handle starting with the right hand all taken up straining at
the choke?
Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Robert Beck
Go Bears!
Message 33
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| Subject: | Re: 912 Choke Actuation Problem |
Robert, I had the same problem. Finally disconnected it all and use the
primer system. Works well. Only thing I could figure was the cable was
sitting on the shelf for a few years.
C. David Estapa
Woodstock, GA
N97DE S5TD
Do not archive
Message 34
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| Subject: | Re: Oshkosh Skiplane trip...coming home...OFF TOPIC |
For a minute there I thought I had much to learn about flying...I
couldn't figure out what flying term a U-Per was...then I recalled.
The U-Pers call us trolls, 'cause we live "under" the
Bridge...thanks, Kurt.
Lynn
p.s. I filled the tanks this morning, and the amount should boost my
GPH by about a good amount..I'll post later, but I'm going to a
coffee fly-in in our 5 F weather right now.
do not archive
On Feb 3, 2007, at 6:11 AM, kurt schrader wrote:
> <smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
>
> Gosh Lynn,
>
> All you missed was having the "You-Pers" (U-Pers?)
> blairing in your headset!
>
> Great story!
>
> Kurt S.
>
> Do not archive
>
>
> Get your own web address.
> http://smallbusiness.yahoo.com/domains/?p=BESTDEAL
>
>
Message 35
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| Subject: | Re: Landing Gear for Kitfox II |
I have a like new set of tube gear for a Model 2 in my hangar which you
can have for very reasonable and shipping. Contact me off list for details.
Alan Daniels
Mike wrote:
>
> I am rebuilding a badly damaged KitFox II, S/N 89. One of the
> problems is that the right landing gear was partially rebuilt, and is
> not the same as the left landing gear, which was undamaged. I would
> like to avoid building a jig to make a new gear, and wondered if
> anyone had a gear available, and in good condition. I don't need the
> tire, wheel, or brakes. Alternatively, does anyone have a drawing,
> sketch, or the necessary dimensions to allow me to make a new one?
>
> Mike
>
>
Message 36
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| Subject: | Re: Landing Gear for Kitfox II |
Correction they might be for a model 3. I don't know if it will fit. I
can measure them up to see if they will work.
Alan
Mike wrote:
>
> I am rebuilding a badly damaged KitFox II, S/N 89. One of the
> problems is that the right landing gear was partially rebuilt, and is
> not the same as the left landing gear, which was undamaged. I would
> like to avoid building a jig to make a new gear, and wondered if
> anyone had a gear available, and in good condition. I don't need the
> tire, wheel, or brakes. Alternatively, does anyone have a drawing,
> sketch, or the necessary dimensions to allow me to make a new one?
>
> Mike
>
>
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