Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:59 AM - GPS info - Plotting on Google Earth. (D. Fisher)
2. 04:40 AM - GPS- TRADE? (n61kf)
3. 04:41 AM - Floyd's trailer design #2 (Floyd Johnson)
4. 05:12 AM - Floyd's trailer design #3 (Floyd Johnson)
5. 05:53 AM - Floyd's trailer design #4 (Floyd Johnson)
6. 06:11 AM - Floyd's trailer design # 5 (Floyd Johnson)
7. 06:29 AM - Pics -- too many ? Floyd's trailer design # 5 (D. Fisher)
8. 06:33 AM - Floyd's trailer design #6 (Floyd Johnson)
9. 06:45 AM - Floyd's trailer design #7 ( end) (Floyd Johnson)
10. 07:28 AM - Re: Floyd's trailer design #6 (fox5flyer)
11. 08:11 AM - Re: Tiny Tach (Nick Scholtes)
12. 12:36 PM - Re: GPS (D. Fisher)
13. 02:14 PM - Tinted or clear windscreen (DanM)
14. 02:27 PM - Re: Tinted or clear windscreen (Alan Daniels)
15. 02:55 PM - Kitfox for sale (Alan Daniels)
16. 04:07 PM - Re: Tinted or clear windscreen (Noel Loveys)
17. 04:20 PM - Re: Tinted or clear windscreen (QSS)
18. 06:00 PM - Re: Re: Tiny Tach (Roger Standley)
19. 07:08 PM - Re: Tinted or clear windscreen (TC)
Message 1
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| Subject: | GPS info - Plotting on Google Earth. |
Michel,
I am a GPS user amd I just plotted some tracks from previous GPS data
onto Google Earth
http://www.cfisher.com/gps There is a link to next pictured at bottom of
each page.
You can see that the GPS I use seems to be fairly accurate with the
exception of over some larger bodies of water.
I think Kurt mentioned that if could be some reflection off the water or
something ?
I find the altitudes pretty good over all. I usuallly am within 50 feet on
arrival at most airports or lakes. I have used several GPSs over the years
and this Garmin 196 seem to work well and good bang for the buck.
Just make sure you get all the firmware updates and Jeppeson data in it
once in a while so that you can utilize it the best. Learning curve on the
GPS is lengthy until you figure out everything you can do with it. Now you
can get Wx and radar on the newer models with subscription. But If you have
a blackberry you can load that from a website as well.
Hope this is an attribute to all pilots.
Dave
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michel Verheughe" <michel@online.no>
Sent: Wednesday, February 21, 2007 3:32 PM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: GPS info
On Feb 21, 2007, at 7:43 PM, D. Fisher wrote:
> I also use WAAS which seems alot more accurate than without.
Yes, it certainly is a big advantage on your continent, Dave.
Regarding the accuracy of altitude (non WAAS, that is) my observation
is that it is not that bad either. But, as the geometry of the
satellites get unfavourable, the first accuracy to go is the altitude.
That's why a 3D position requires more satellites than a 2D.
Now, while most of the time the altitude is within reasonable values,
it may - and will, with time - become inaccurate in relation to the 2D
positioning. And that "not knowing" factor is exactly what was behind
the now inactive "Selective Availability" (SA).
Until May 2000 non-NATO GPS had to suffer the SA. The idea was: 99% of
the time, it was accurate, but one percent of the time, it could be as
much as 600 feet off position. Now, would you e,g. sail your ship in no
visibility in a narrow waterway, knowing that there is one percent of
chance that you may run aground? I think not.
The same applies for e.g. GPS software simulating a virtual ILS with
glide slope. No one wants to take the responsibility to make it because
one could have bad luck and be far away from the actual altitude; even
if most of the time it would work.
At least, that what the guys who write the PocketFMS program told me.
An interesting thing is that, while everyone thought the GPS SA would
be screwed to the highest level during Desert Storm (1991) it was the
opposite. The reason being that some of the allied forces (Saudi
Arabians) were not members of NATO and had to use the "civil" version
of the GPS. But the US DoD meant that, in any case, they had the
military superiority over the Iraqi that it didn't matter if they were
also able to position themselves accurately.
Cheers,
Michel
Message 2
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While we are on the topic of GPS. I have a Bendix/King KLX-135 gps/com that I aquired
with one of my Kitfox projects. I dont plan to use a panel mount unit,
and would be interested in selling or trading for a Garmin 296 or 196, If anyone
is interested please contact me off list. Thanks
do not archive
Keith Schneider, n61kf@yahoo.com
--------
Keith
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p'632#96632
Message 3
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| Subject: | Floyd's trailer design #2 |
Hi Again Folks,
Now I'll cover the bottom end. BTY, the New York Mid Winter mud is NOT part
of the design. It belongs to Mother Nature and you don't mess with her!
First of all, don't place your axle assembly too far back. The guy who welded
my trailer insisted that it should be to the rear and I had to cut it off and
start over. Now the trailer is nicely balanced with the right amount of weight
on the tongue. I believe it is 1/3 of the overall load. The wheel assemblies
and springs are from Northern Hydralic (sp). When you build the axle, be sure
to have a 2 inch rise in the middle to give the tires some "toe in". If you
use 2 inch ID square tubing, the axle stubs will slide right in where you can
weld them in place.
Now to the front. I bolted, rather than welded my hitch in place in case I
needed to replace it. The stand is available at Northern or any trailer or boat
store. Walmart could be a source too. This is bolted in place also for the
same reason as the hitch.
Next is the winch location. I like to have one hand on the tailspring while
I am unloading the plane, just for security, so I placed the winch in a location
where I could achieve that.
Looking at the rear crossmember, you can see where the tougue beam ( 6 in X
2 in ) is welded in place. I left the bottom open for two reasons; 1. I can feed
my electrical wires thru it and 2. it lets the inevitable water drain out.
You can see here where the tailwheel guide starts and the tiedown rings are located.
A note on the lift cable you see in this view. I made a loop which runs from
each ramp, (details later,) and terminates near the front crossover tube. I
have a clip to secure it on one of the front box tiedown rings when it isn't
being use to lift or lower the plane. The winch clevis clips over the cable front
end. DUH! That's all for now! Regards, Floyd
Floyd Johnson
kitfox69@earthlink.net
EarthLink Revolves Around You.
Message 4
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| Subject: | Floyd's trailer design #3 |
Lets continue,
Amid the mud, you are now viewing the right rear section showing the ramps
in the up position. This shows the pivot point for the ramps and the pipe locking
mechanism. The short vertical pieces of 1 1/2 inch pipe, hold plastic pipe
guides for loading on floats when at a boat ramp. I'll put one in place and
photograph it later. The left rear view details are identical to the right.
Next is the ramp roll off plate. Just a piece of diamond plate with the end
bent down to meet the ground. NOTE that this plate is mounted ON TOP of the
support tubing.
At the top you can see where the pipe lock slides thru the end tube and locks
into a "U" cut in the side tube. Also, just to your right ,observe the locking
pin to hold the lock pipe in place. This is VERY IMPORTANT!
On the lower left is the cable pulley attached to the lift ring. Don't forget
to thread the pully mount hole over the mount ring BEFORE you weld the ring
in place.
Just to the left of the pully attachment is another view of one of the float
tube holders.
More to come. Any questions yet? Regards, Floyd
Floyd Johnson
kitfox69@earthlink.net
EarthLink Revolves Around You.
Message 5
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| Subject: | Floyd's trailer design #4 |
I'm BAAAck!
OK, Here's a view of what I call the "KEEPER WELL". Notice that the diamond
plate is welded to THE UNDERSIDE of the support tubing. This is so it captures
the wheels of the plane. As you crank the ramps up, the plane rolls into the
wells. As you lower the plane, the wheels roll right out of the wells and down
onto the ramps.Then you can roll it off the ramps to the ground.
Slick as a whistle. BOY I'm good! ( Sorry ! )
The pivot points are made from round stock which fits into hollow steel tubes.
Mine are made from newspaper press rollers.
You will probably have to have something made in a machine shop. Mine have 1/4
inch thick walls and are drilled for zerk fittings so I can grease them. The load
bearing round stock is welded full length to the back of the ramp tubing.
Pay attention to the fact that the ramp is down some distance from the box frame.
I need to get all the dimensions and publish them at the end of the photo
messages..
Take note of the position of the SECOND pulley mounted on the inside corner,
which carries the lift cable.
The piece of angle iron laying in the well is NOT a piece that fell off. I use
it to stop the plane from rolling off the ramp when
loading and unloading.
One more note: Notice the width and height of the gap ahead of the ramp. This
is designed for the tail of the skis to slip thru during winter operation. (
Not necessary in California or Florida!)
Note in the second photo, that the Keeper well has been reinforced underneth
with angle iron crossovers. Here also, you can see clearly how the locking pipe
slides thru the square tubing.
In the next message will cover the locking mechanism in detail. See Ya.
FLoyd
Floyd Johnson
kitfox69@earthlink.net
EarthLink Revolves Around You.
Message 6
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| Subject: | Floyd's trailer design # 5 |
A bad penny always returns,
The first photo is just an overview of the ramp assembly I have covered earlier
in detail.
The next photo shows a closeup of the pipe latch. It is simply a piece of
black iron pipe which slides thru the tubing and rests in "U" shaped cutouts in
the side frame. I lift the plane a few inches to take the load off, pull the
pipe out, lower the ramps to just under the frame and reinsert the pipe before
lowering it the rest of the way. The reason I do this , is because the ramps
don't always lower together. Not really a problem, but it looks better if there
is a crowd watching, which there usually is.
Next photo is just a closeup of the opposite side. See the latch pin just
East of the ramp lip. OK class, this is a test. Which way is the trailer oriented?
OK, only one descriptive message left and I can get on with my current projects.
Cheers! Floyd
Floyd Johnson
kitfox69@earthlink.net
EarthLink Revolves Around You.
Message 7
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| Subject: | Pics -- too many ? Floyd's trailer design # 5 |
Floyd,
Great pictures but I would be careful sending so many attachments, The
dial up users will probably complain.
There seems to be complaing if you upset the apple cart here.
I had some pics i did last night but I posted a link
http://www.cfisher.com/gps/index.html so not too upset the cart
<snicker>
Dave
----- Original Message -----
From: Floyd Johnson
To: Kitfox-List
Sent: Thursday, February 22, 2007 9:11 AM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Floyd's trailer design # 5
A bad penny always returns,
The first photo is just an overview of the ramp assembly I have
covered earlier in detail.
The next photo shows a closeup of the pipe latch. It is simply a
piece of black iron pipe which slides thru the tubing and rests in "U"
shaped cutouts in the side frame. I lift the plane a few inches to take
the load off, pull the pipe out, lower the ramps to just under the frame
and reinsert the pipe before lowering it the rest of the way. The reason
I do this , is because the ramps don't always lower together. Not really
a problem, but it looks better if there is a crowd watching, which there
usually is.
Next photo is just a closeup of the opposite side. See the latch
pin just East of the ramp lip. OK class, this is a test. Which way is
the trailer oriented?
OK, only one descriptive message left and I can get on with my
current projects. Cheers! Floyd
Floyd Johnson
kitfox69@earthlink.net
EarthLink Revolves Around You.
Message 8
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| Subject: | Floyd's trailer design #6 |
Here we are for the next to last photo detail. As mentioned before, I'll do some
measuring and post the results.
First photo shows how the lift cable is attached and routed thru the pulleys.
It is a continous loop from the left ramp to the right ramp with enough
length to reach the front of the box frame where you can attach it to the winch
cable.
Next photo is the ramp attach detail. Here you can see the wall thickness of
the pivots and how the ramp attaches. Don't forget to slide the ramp axle into
the pivots before they are welded in. Seems like a no brainer, but easy to
overlook, especially for someone like me who has been loosing 250,000 brain cells
a day since I was 21 , which was a few years ago.
Next is the view of the tailwheel guide. This is made up of 1 1/2 inch angle
iron spaced 3 inches apart. It is 136 inches long.
This comes in very handy for guiding the plane on the trailer. You can also see
the lift cable loop where I have it clipped to a tiedown ring, and NO! The big
green thing at the end of the tongue is not my plane!
Next message will cover the tailwheel support. BYE! Floyd
Floyd Johnson
kitfox69@earthlink.net
EarthLink Revolves Around You.
Message 9
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| Subject: | Floyd's trailer design #7 ( end) |
Hi again Folks,
This segment covers the much requested tailwheel standoff. It doesn't lift
the tailwheel off the surface, it only
carries the weight to the trailer frame so your plane doesn't bounce on the tailwheel.
I find it to be very effective. The straps are 20" long with the holes
at 17" centers. The distance from the frame bolt center to the surface where
the tailwheel sets is 3/4 ".
The carry thru bolt which goes thru the fuselage tube is 5 1/2 " long. I use a
wingnut for ease of hookup.
The straps should be made of tempered steel. They are can be 3/4" to 1" wide by
1/4" thick. If you don't have tempered steel,
just heat the straps to cherry red and quickly quench in cold water.
This is the end of the photos. I'll gather liniar data as soon as our forcasted
" fast moving snow storm" passes.
Enjoy. Regards, Floyd N69FJ
Floyd Johnson
kitfox69@earthlink.net
EarthLink Revolves Around You.
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Floyd's trailer design #6 |
Great photo sequence Floyd! Excellent job. I've moved them all to a
folder for future reference and use if necessary. Thanks for keeping
the photo attachments of a reasonable size. It was no problem for my
dialup. Let us know how your first voyage goes.
Deke
----- Original Message -----
From: Floyd Johnson
To: Kitfox-List
Sent: Thursday, February 22, 2007 9:32 AM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Floyd's trailer design #6
Here we are for the next to last photo detail. As mentioned before,
I'll do some measuring and post the results.
First photo shows how the lift cable is attached and routed thru
the pulleys. It is a continous loop from the left ramp to the right
ramp with enough length to reach the front of the box frame where you
can attach it to the winch cable.
Next photo is the ramp attach detail. Here you can see the wall
thickness of the pivots and how the ramp attaches. Don't forget to slide
the ramp axle into the pivots before they are welded in. Seems like a no
brainer, but easy to overlook, especially for someone like me who has
been loosing 250,000 brain cells a day since I was 21 , which was a few
years ago.
Next is the view of the tailwheel guide. This is made up of 1
1/2 inch angle iron spaced 3 inches apart. It is 136 inches long.
This comes in very handy for guiding the plane on the trailer. You can
also see the lift cable loop where I have it clipped to a tiedown ring,
and NO! The big green thing at the end of the tongue is not my plane!
Next message will cover the tailwheel support. BYE! Floyd
Floyd Johnson
kitfox69@earthlink.net
EarthLink Revolves Around You.
Message 11
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Marco,
There is another, in my opinion much better, way to answer your question. Go with a tach from a different company. Go with a tach from SenDEC. Specifically the FS-500 tach. It is programmable for a variety of spark pulses/revolution so you don't have to order the right model for your engine (it will work with any engine), it is resettable, it allows you to change what info you're viewing while the engine is running, it allows you to set up times for things like oil changes, it keeps total time but also time for a single flight (which is resettable at any time), it only requires one wire, which is replacable and has no "hard" connection to the unit itself. You can get them lots of places, here's one place: http://www.aerolight.com/, search on "tach".
Let me explain a little as to why I'm so high on the SenDEC, and so down on the
Tiny Tach (which I have found to be a POC in just about every regard).
My "other" hobby is PPG (Powered ParaGliders, check them out on www.usppa.org) I have been a dealer for PPG's for quite a while, and we include a tach with every machine we sell. We started out with the Tiny Tach, which has the largest market share and everybody knows about it. The Tiny Tach had significant problems, which I won't go into, so then we switched to ENM, and they couldn't get them to work reliably either. We actually became a test site for the ENM engineers and worked with them closely trying to get the tach to be reliable on our motors. We evaluated several prototypes, developed new front-end circuits, and worked on it for over a year, to no avail.
In the end, the SenDEC has proven to be absolutely bulletproof. And the features
are much better as well. You don't have to order or stock a particular model
for a particular number of sparks/revolution, you can reset it if you need/want
to. Much better, in every regard.
I know that a tach choice isn't a very "important" issue, but if you've dealt with
hundreds of them like I have, the difference becomes pretty big.
Hope this helps.
Nick
----- Original Message -----
From: Marco Menezes
To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, February 21, 2007 4:42 PM
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Re: Tiny Tach
Thanks guys, but back to my original question: Can anyone tell me what
model to get for a 582?
Message 12
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Lynn,
I think this might be useful for you Mac users .
http://flighttrack.sourceforge.net/
Dave
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lynn Matteson" <lynnmatt@jps.net>
Sent: Saturday, February 10, 2007 11:00 PM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: GPS
>
> Yup, you're right. I just checked and the elevation is showing
> 1800'...I now recall that I made that strip a waypoint when I flew
> over it last year...at apparently 1800'. Next time I land down there,
> I'll enter the elevation of 1001', give it an airport symbol and that
> should fix it.
>
> Lynn
> do not archive
> On Feb 10, 2007, at 6:27 PM, dave wrote:
>
>>
>> Lynn , you might have a setting that is off a bit .
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Tinted or clear windscreen |
I have smoke tinted one piece turtledeck for my model IV. I'm concidering going
with a smoke tinted windscreen as well. Any opinions out there, pro or con??
Thanks
--------
Dan Mc Intyre
Kitfox Model IV, Jab 2200
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p'747#96747
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Tinted or clear windscreen |
It depends on if you intend to fly near or after dark. Some people feel
it really restricts vision at dusk and dark, others don't seem to mind.
You will get more heat and sun from overhead and a good sun shield is
really needed. I use a bungee and thin foam pad I can move around to
keep from baking in the sun.
DanM wrote:
>
> I have smoke tinted one piece turtledeck for my model IV. I'm concidering going
with a smoke tinted windscreen as well. Any opinions out there, pro or con??
>
> Thanks
>
> --------
> Dan Mc Intyre
> Kitfox Model IV, Jab 2200
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p'747#96747
>
>
>
Message 15
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I have put my Rotax powered Kitfox 57 on e-bay Item number:
290086492327 Don't worry, I still have another in the hangar. As most
of you know I really like the CAM 100 engine. I have collected a couple
extra over the years and want to sell one basic FWF. It includes a NEW
CAM 100, New engine mount for a Kitfox 5,6,7, and a new Kitfox cowl. I
will sell the them as a set only for $5700. I have removed the drive
belt and exhaust from the engine to use on my flying plane at about 700
hours. The parts are easy to get and no major deal. All you would need
is the add a lightweight alternator, radiator, battery and prop. I have
two spare props so I might let one go. Contact me off list if you are
interested , and tell someone that wants a flying Fox to check out my
plane on e-bay. I am raising money for a new project. I must build
again. I think it is an addiction.
Thanks
Alan
do not archive
Message 16
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| Subject: | Tinted or clear windscreen |
Don't ask why but for the front glass and side glass I prefer clear....
Especially for twilight hours. In broad daylight you can wear dark glasses
but when it gets dark it's hard to fly with your head out the window. (
Lucky Lindy did it on his transatlantic trip ) Overhead and turtle deck are
another quintal of fish!
Noel
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of DanM
> Sent: Thursday, February 22, 2007 6:44 PM
> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Kitfox-List: Tinted or clear windscreen
>
>
>
> I have smoke tinted one piece turtledeck for my model IV. I'm
> concidering going with a smoke tinted windscreen as well. Any
> opinions out there, pro or con??
>
> Thanks
>
> --------
> Dan Mc Intyre
> Kitfox Model IV, Jab 2200
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p'747#96747
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Tinted or clear windscreen |
Hi Dan, I have my classic1V fitted with tinted lexan and I dont regret for
one minute going for the tint. We have very hot sunny days here and the
reduced glared factor when travelling over water and salt pans makes the
trip so much more comfortable. Instruments such as my GPS are also easier to
read. The only issue I had to come to terms with is that in summer when we
get a lot of storms, the cloud looks a bit darker than it really is but I
look at this a an added safety factor that keeps you conscious of weather.
No noticeable difference in cabin temp. My theory is, if its hot go higher.
I ordered the lexan and cut it myself but due to it being 1/8" in thickness
I had to use a heat gun to bend it where the screen goes over the cross bar
to become the over head section. This area is subject to cracking due to the
compound curve but with the additional thickness and judicscious use of heat
Im happy with the results.
Regards
Graeme
----- Original Message -----
From: "DanM" <danm@gangnailtruss.com>
Sent: Friday, February 23, 2007 8:14 AM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Tinted or clear windscreen
>
> I have smoke tinted one piece turtledeck for my model IV. I'm concidering
> going with a smoke tinted windscreen as well. Any opinions out there, pro
> or con??
>
> Thanks
>
> --------
> Dan Mc Intyre
> Kitfox Model IV, Jab 2200
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p'747#96747
>
>
>
Message 18
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=0ANick,=0A=0AI, too, have had poor luck with the Tiny Tach.
I went to the SenDEC site and still have a couple questions and you ma
y know the answers. From where does it take its rpm input? What is its
power requirement? Same as the Tiny Tach?=0A=0AThank you,=0A
=0ARoger=0A ----- Original Message ----- =0A From: Nick Sch
oltes<mailto:Nick@Scholtes1.com> =0A To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
<mailto:kitfox-list@matronics.com> =0A Sent: Thursday, February 22
, 2007 8:10 AM=0A Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: Tiny Tach=0A=0A
s1.com<mailto:Nick@Scholtes1.com>>=0A=0A Marco,=0A=0A Th
ere is another, in my opinion much better, way to answer your question
Go with a tach from a different company. Go with a tach from SenDE
C. Specifically the FS-500 tach. It is programmable for a variety of
spark pulses/revolution so you don't have to order the right model for
your engine (it will work with any engine), it is resettable, it allo
ws you to change what info you're viewing while the engine is running,
it allows you to set up times for things like oil changes, it keeps t
otal time but also time for a single flight (which is resettable at an
y time), it only requires one wire, which is replacable and has no "ha
rd" connection to the unit itself. You can get them lots of places, h
ere's one place: http://www.aerolight.com/<http://www.aerolight.com/>
, search on "tach".=0A=0A Let me explain a little as to why I'm
so high on the SenDEC, and so down on the Tiny Tach (which I have fou
nd to be a POC in just about every regard). =0A=0A My "other"
hobby is PPG (Powered ParaGliders, check them out on www.usppa.org<htt
p://www.usppa.org/>) I have been a dealer for PPG's for quite a while
, and we include a tach with every machine we sell. We started out wi
th the Tiny Tach, which has the largest market share and everybody kno
ws about it. The Tiny Tach had significant problems, which I won't go
into, so then we switched to ENM, and they couldn't get them to work
reliably either. We actually became a test site for the ENM engineers
and worked with them closely trying to get the tach to be reliable on
our motors. We evaluated several prototypes, developed new front-end
circuits, and worked on it for over a year, to no avail. =0A
=0A In the end, the SenDEC has proven to be absolutely bulletproof.
And the features are much better as well. You don't have to order or
stock a particular model for a particular number of sparks/revolution,
you can reset it if you need/want to. Much better, in every regard.
=0A=0A I know that a tach choice isn't a very "important" issue
, but if you've dealt with hundreds of them like I have, the differenc
e becomes pretty big.=0A=0A Hope this helps.=0A=0A Nick
=0A=0A=0A=0A ----- Original Message ----- =0A Fro
m: Marco Menezes =0A To: kitfox-list@matronics.com<mailto:kitfox
-list@matronics.com> =0A Sent: Wednesday, February 21, 2007 4:42
PM=0A Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Re: Tiny Tach=0A=0A=0A
Thanks guys, but back to my original question: Can anyone tell me
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--> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List<http://www.matronic
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| Subject: | Tinted or clear windscreen |
I used tinted on the doors and turtledeck and clear on the windshield /
skylight. I then inserted tinted under the skylight.
Makes the Houston summers a little more bearable.
Regards,
Ted
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of QSS
Sent: Thursday, February 22, 2007 6:21 PM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Tinted or clear windscreen
Hi Dan, I have my classic1V fitted with tinted lexan and I dont regret for
one minute going for the tint. We have very hot sunny days here and the
reduced glared factor when travelling over water and salt pans makes the
trip so much more comfortable. Instruments such as my GPS are also easier to
read. The only issue I had to come to terms with is that in summer when we
get a lot of storms, the cloud looks a bit darker than it really is but I
look at this a an added safety factor that keeps you conscious of weather.
No noticeable difference in cabin temp. My theory is, if its hot go higher.
I ordered the lexan and cut it myself but due to it being 1/8" in thickness
I had to use a heat gun to bend it where the screen goes over the cross bar
to become the over head section. This area is subject to cracking due to the
compound curve but with the additional thickness and judicscious use of heat
Im happy with the results.
Regards
Graeme
----- Original Message -----
From: "DanM" <danm@gangnailtruss.com>
Sent: Friday, February 23, 2007 8:14 AM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Tinted or clear windscreen
>
> I have smoke tinted one piece turtledeck for my model IV. I'm concidering
> going with a smoke tinted windscreen as well. Any opinions out there, pro
> or con??
>
> Thanks
>
> --------
> Dan Mc Intyre
> Kitfox Model IV, Jab 2200
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p'747#96747
>
>
>
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