Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:32 AM - Re: Re: Odyssey battery WAS: 2nd Flight-High Oil Temps (Don Smythe)
2. 05:31 AM - Starter grinding noise (fox5flyer)
3. 05:50 AM - Re: Starter grinding noise (Malcolmbru@aol.com)
4. 07:04 AM - TOPIC CHANGE -- Don's 582 Starter ()
5. 07:04 AM - Re: Flap usage (n85ae)
6. 07:20 AM - Re: Flap usage (kitfoxmike)
7. 07:40 AM - Re: Re: Flap usage ()
8. 07:41 AM - Re: Re: Odyssey battery WAS: 2nd Flight-High Oil Temps (alnanarthur)
9. 08:10 AM - Re: Re: Odyssey battery WAS: 2nd Flight-High Oil Temps (Noel Loveys)
10. 01:31 PM - Re: Re: Glassfiber tanks and ethanol - again (Michel Verheughe)
11. 02:02 PM - Re: Re: Odyssey battery WAS: 2nd Flight-High Oil Temps (Don Smythe)
12. 02:09 PM - Re: Starter grinding noise (Don Smythe)
13. 03:12 PM - Re: Re: Odyssey battery WAS: 2nd Flight-High Oil Temps (GONER752@aol.com)
14. 03:52 PM - Re: Starter grinding noise (kurt schrader)
15. 04:42 PM - Re: Starter grinding noise (Don Smythe)
16. 04:49 PM - Re: Re: Odyssey battery WAS: 2nd Flight-High Oil Temps (Don Smythe)
17. 07:11 PM - Re: Starter grinding noise (kurt schrader)
18. 11:33 PM - Re: Glassfiber tanks and ethanol - again (John Allen)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Odyssey battery WAS: 2nd Flight-High Oil Temps |
The problem has been fixed (I think). I replaced/cleaned all the grounds
and hot wires that I could get to. Engine spun right up. However, during
the spin up I heard a short duration noise twice that sounded like something
grinding. Never heard this before. It stopped. After that, I turned on
the fuel and hit the mags. She fired right up. The problem seems to be
fixed but the grinding noise made me nervous.
Don Smythe
----- Original Message -----
From: "Noel Loveys" <noelloveys@yahoo.ca>
Sent: Monday, April 02, 2007 9:07 PM
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Re: Odyssey battery WAS: 2nd Flight-High Oil Temps
>
> Unless you have a burnt starter relay, a bad ground on the starter motor
> or
> both then the problem is in the starter itself. I know on my plane
> (Kitfox
> 582) that is a royal pain in the butt to get out.
>
> I have seen certified aircraft that started easily for years and suddenly
> had problems cranking. The electrical ground had been passing some how
> through the engine mounts and control cables for years until corrosion
> started causing the problems. The installation of a good bonding braid
> across the engine Lord mount cured the problem.
>
> You can easily ring out the ground between the engine and the negative
> terminal of the battery with a Volt/Ohm/Meter (VOM) if there is any
> appreciable resistance showing then a bonding strap may help... It's cheap
> too and relatively permanent.
>
> On an old Datsun I had problems with the starter that turned out to be the
> slightest bit of corrosion on the starter mount and the bolts that held
> the
> starter to the engine block. Cleaning the end of the starter and part of
> the housing it fit into with fine sand paper cured the problem. If the
> engine has an aluminium mounting spot or the starter drive housing is
> aluminium then aluminium oxide paper is recommended.
>
> Hope this helps.
>
> Noel
>
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
>> Don Smythe
>> Sent: Monday, April 02, 2007 8:54 PM
>> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Re: Odyssey battery WAS: 2nd
>> Flight-High Oil Temps
>>
>>
>>
>> I guess I started the concern over the Odyssey battery with
>> my current
>> starter problem. As part of my troubleshooting I had my
>> Odyssey 680 tested
>> today by a battery specialist company. My Odyssey is 100% in
>> good working
>> order both static and under load test. Back to troubleshooting. The
>> battery ain't tha problem.
>>
>> Don Smythe
>> Do Not Archive
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "kitfoxmike" <customtrans@qwest.net>
>> To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
>> Sent: Monday, April 02, 2007 1:24 PM
>> Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: Odyssey battery WAS: 2nd
>> Flight-High Oil Temps
>>
>>
>> <customtrans@qwest.net>
>> >
>> > I have the Odyssey 535, this battery is great, never had an
>> issue in over
>> > 3 years. I fly virtually every day rain, shine, wind,
>> snow... engine
>> > starts everytime.
>> >
>> > --------
>> > kitfoxmike
>> > model IV, 1200
>> > speedster
>> > 912ul
>> > Do not archive
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > Read this topic online here:
>> >
>> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=104517#104517
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Starter grinding noise |
Sounds like one of those wait 'n see things Don. Actually, pulling a 582 to
get to the starter isn't much of a deal and getting the starter off to have
a good look at it is less of a deal so if I were you, I'd pull it and check
the cause of the grinding noise. There should be some visible evidence of
it somewhere. Here's why.
Way back when, at a flyin, I prepared to leave and when I tried to start up,
the engine locked up. I could hear the starter engage, but the engine
wouldn't turn. I got out, moved the prop back and forth a few times, then
when I tried to start it, it locked again. This time I successfully hand
propped it. I then (stupidly) flew the 40 minutes home uneventfully,
wondering what sort of problem would cause that. During the flight the more
I thought about it, the more I worried about what could have been the cause,
so I pulled it into the workshop, pulled the engine and found a big surprise
that made my hair stand up. The first thing was the 4g ground strap from
the starter to the engine mount was only hanging by a couple wires, but it
was only visible with the engine out of the airplane. The next thing I
found, the one that gave me the chills, (drum roll please) was the flywheel
was cracked almost completely across. The crack emanated from one of the
gear teeth radiating inward toward the bolt hole. One side was all the way
with a gap of about 1/8 inch at the teeth. The other side didn't go all the
way and there was about an inch of metal holding the flywheel together near
the bolt hole. It was very close to coming apart! What happened when the
engine locked up (the best I could deduce) was that a starter tooth had
lodged in the crack gap causing it to bind, but moving the prop back and
forth released it. What made me cringe about it all was the thought of what
it would have been like if at 6000 rpm on a climb over hostile territory
(much of it around here) that thing decided to come apart with nothing but
that flimsy firewall between me and it.
Anyway, I called Jerry at Greensky Adventures, a Rotax guru at the time, and
he told me that there was an SB on that and he had a new and improved
flywheel for me, which I received in the mail in a few days, including new
bolts. The new flywheel was about 50 percent thicker. My engine was one of
the older 582s with a B box so I'm sure that at some point the engines were
all upgraded with the new flywheels. Something to check out if you have an
old one. You may even be able to check it with the engine in the airplane
using a mirror and good light. Pretty simple to check by serial number and
I'm sure that Lockwood or any of the Rotax reps would have information on
it. I think the SB # was SB-505-04, but I'm not sure about that. It was a
simple change out with no special tools required.
The reason I took the time to write all this Don is because of the
importance of checking out anything that doesn't sound right, especially
mechanical noises. I hope this doesn't sound like a lecture, but things
have a habit of happening in the worst possible places and at the worst
possible times. Good luck and keep us posted if you find anything else.
Deke
Ps: Here's a listing of the SBs for the Rotax 2-strokes
http://www.rotax-owner.com/sdocs.htm
----- Original Message -----
From: "Don Smythe" <dosmythe@cox.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 03, 2007 5:31 AM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Re: Odyssey battery WAS: 2nd Flight-High Oil Temps
>
> The problem has been fixed (I think). I replaced/cleaned all the grounds
> and hot wires that I could get to. Engine spun right up. However, during
> the spin up I heard a short duration noise twice that sounded like
something
> grinding. Never heard this before. It stopped. After that, I turned on
> the fuel and hit the mags. She fired right up. The problem seems to be
> fixed but the grinding noise made me nervous.
>
> Don Smythe
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Starter grinding noise |
Don you also need to think about the starter grinding the starter gear and
the metal shavings winding up on the magnets of the fly wheel and starter this
happens naturally and is a maintenance cleaning issue mal
************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
Message 4
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| Subject: | TOPIC CHANGE -- Don's 582 Starter |
Better pull that engine
it a 2 hours job to R & R it
Starter has issues and it won;t get better.
Starter drive might cost you $ 100+ alone.
Fix it right or just hand prop. but if you got grinding noises or any sign
of filings anywhere you will have bigger troubles coming.
I changed to a E box -- 100 times better idea that the C box with the
starter on mag end.
Dave
----- Original Message -----
From: "Don Smythe" <dosmythe@cox.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 03, 2007 6:31 AM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Re: Odyssey battery WAS: 2nd Flight-High Oil Temps
>
> The problem has been fixed (I think). I replaced/cleaned all the grounds
> and hot wires that I could get to. Engine spun right up. However, during
> the spin up I heard a short duration noise twice that sounded like
> something grinding. Never heard this before. It stopped. After that, I
> turned on the fuel and hit the mags. She fired right up. The problem
> seems to be fixed but the grinding noise made me nervous.
>
> Don Smythe
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Noel Loveys" <noelloveys@yahoo.ca>
> To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Monday, April 02, 2007 9:07 PM
> Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Re: Odyssey battery WAS: 2nd Flight-High Oil
> Temps
>
>
>>
>> Unless you have a burnt starter relay, a bad ground on the starter motor
>> or
>> both then the problem is in the starter itself. I know on my plane
>> (Kitfox
>> 582) that is a royal pain in the butt to get out.
>>
>> I have seen certified aircraft that started easily for years and suddenly
>> had problems cranking. The electrical ground had been passing some how
>> through the engine mounts and control cables for years until corrosion
>> started causing the problems. The installation of a good bonding braid
>> across the engine Lord mount cured the problem.
>>
>> You can easily ring out the ground between the engine and the negative
>> terminal of the battery with a Volt/Ohm/Meter (VOM) if there is any
>> appreciable resistance showing then a bonding strap may help... It's
>> cheap
>> too and relatively permanent.
>>
>> On an old Datsun I had problems with the starter that turned out to be
>> the
>> slightest bit of corrosion on the starter mount and the bolts that held
>> the
>> starter to the engine block. Cleaning the end of the starter and part of
>> the housing it fit into with fine sand paper cured the problem. If the
>> engine has an aluminium mounting spot or the starter drive housing is
>> aluminium then aluminium oxide paper is recommended.
>>
>> Hope this helps.
>>
>> Noel
>>
>>
>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
>>> [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
>>> Don Smythe
>>> Sent: Monday, April 02, 2007 8:54 PM
>>> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
>>> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Re: Odyssey battery WAS: 2nd
>>> Flight-High Oil Temps
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> I guess I started the concern over the Odyssey battery with
>>> my current
>>> starter problem. As part of my troubleshooting I had my
>>> Odyssey 680 tested
>>> today by a battery specialist company. My Odyssey is 100% in
>>> good working
>>> order both static and under load test. Back to troubleshooting. The
>>> battery ain't tha problem.
>>>
>>> Don Smythe
>>> Do Not Archive
>>>
>>> ----- Original Message -----
>>> From: "kitfoxmike" <customtrans@qwest.net>
>>> To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
>>> Sent: Monday, April 02, 2007 1:24 PM
>>> Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: Odyssey battery WAS: 2nd
>>> Flight-High Oil Temps
>>>
>>>
>>> <customtrans@qwest.net>
>>> >
>>> > I have the Odyssey 535, this battery is great, never had an
>>> issue in over
>>> > 3 years. I fly virtually every day rain, shine, wind,
>>> snow... engine
>>> > starts everytime.
>>> >
>>> > --------
>>> > kitfoxmike
>>> > model IV, 1200
>>> > speedster
>>> > 912ul
>>> > Do not archive
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>> > Read this topic online here:
>>> >
>>> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=104517#104517
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 5
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I never use flaps. I use slips a lot. The trick is to get used to the high
angle of attack at slow speeds. This is what discourages a lot of Kitfox
drivers I think. If you fly in with a normal sight picture (like a Citabria,
or Cub) you're gonna float for about 10,000 ft. I generally fly 60 mph
on base/final, and slow down to about 50 over the fence and chop power
when I know I have the landing made. Mine stalls (mushes is a better
word) right around 35-40 indicated.
I have done power off slips in my plane down to very slow airspeed at
altitude. WELL before any cross controlled stall occurs I get a very
vigorous buffeting of the turtledeck.
If it's gusty, just bump up the airspeed 5-10 mph.
The other option if you're afeared of being a carrier pilot, is to use
wheel landings. :)
Jeff Hays
N85AE Series 5/IO-240B
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=104680#104680
Message 6
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Slips are fun. I do them all the time, just got to get used to laying on the door.
Generally I do short approaches and when turning base to final I will hold
the bank and just push in the appropriate rudder and turn it into a slip, very
fun.
--------
kitfoxmike
model IV, 1200
speedster
912ul
Do not archive
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=104686#104686
Message 7
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I use flaps alot in my IV
Flaps help tremendously for getting the weight from gear to wings quicker
that without.
Float flyers will find the Flapperons a great benefit as well.
take off -- 20 to 33 degree will get you off quicker.
landing -- over 20 degrees flaps really no advantage.
Movies here if you don;t agree. http://www.cfisher.com
Dave
----- Original Message -----
From: "n85ae" <n85ae@yahoo.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 03, 2007 10:04 AM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: Flap usage
>
> I never use flaps. I use slips a lot. The trick is to get used to the high
> angle of attack at slow speeds. This is what discourages a lot of Kitfox
> drivers I think. If you fly in with a normal sight picture (like a
> Citabria,
> or Cub) you're gonna float for about 10,000 ft. I generally fly 60 mph
> on base/final, and slow down to about 50 over the fence and chop power
> when I know I have the landing made. Mine stalls (mushes is a better
> word) right around 35-40 indicated.
>
> I have done power off slips in my plane down to very slow airspeed at
> altitude. WELL before any cross controlled stall occurs I get a very
> vigorous buffeting of the turtledeck.
>
> If it's gusty, just bump up the airspeed 5-10 mph.
>
> The other option if you're afeared of being a carrier pilot, is to use
> wheel landings. :)
>
> Jeff Hays
>
> N85AE Series 5/IO-240B
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=104680#104680
>
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Odyssey battery WAS: 2nd Flight-High Oil Temps |
Don, I am in the process of replacing the sprag clutch in my
912ULS. How does your starter engage the crank in your engine?
Allan Arthur
Kitfox 5, N40AA
Rotax 912ULS, Warpdrive 3 blade
Byron Airport, CA (C83) Hanger C8
On Apr 3, 2007, at 3:31 AM, Don Smythe wrote:
>
> The problem has been fixed (I think). I replaced/cleaned all the
> grounds and hot wires that I could get to. Engine spun right up.
> However, during the spin up I heard a short duration noise twice
> that sounded like something grinding. Never heard this before. It
> stopped. After that, I turned on the fuel and hit the mags. She
> fired right up. The problem seems to be fixed but the grinding
> noise made me nervous.
>
> Don Smythe
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Odyssey battery WAS: 2nd Flight-High Oil Temps |
I don't know why but I'm guessing you have a 582. If so the bolts that hold
the starter to the mag end of the crank are only supposed to be tightened to
the point where there is a (I think) 1mm gap between the starter and the
engine housing. If the starter is a bit out of line that might cause the
grinding sound.
Glad to hear you are running again.
Clear skies
Noel
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> Don Smythe
> Sent: Tuesday, April 03, 2007 8:01 AM
> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Re: Odyssey battery WAS: 2nd
> Flight-High Oil Temps
>
>
>
> The problem has been fixed (I think). I replaced/cleaned all
> the grounds
> and hot wires that I could get to. Engine spun right up.
> However, during
> the spin up I heard a short duration noise twice that sounded
> like something
> grinding. Never heard this before. It stopped. After that,
> I turned on
> the fuel and hit the mags. She fired right up. The problem
> seems to be
> fixed but the grinding noise made me nervous.
>
> Don Smythe
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Glassfiber tanks and ethanol - again |
Thanks Bob, Noel and Ted.
I was pretty sure that if PRC was the solution for us, glassfiber tank
owners, someone on this list would have found it first. But I felt I
had to relay the information given by someone (and supported by someone
else) on the Jabiru list. We'll just have to look further to solve our
glassfiber and ethanol problem.
Cheers,
Michel
do not archive
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Odyssey battery WAS: 2nd Flight-High Oil Temps |
Allan,
I have the 582. The starter is mounted on the far rear of the engine down
low with the gear facing forward. The starter gear engages a large flywheel
on the back of the engine.
Don Smythe
Do Not Archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "alnanarthur" <alnanarthur@sbcglobal.net>
> 912ULS. How does your starter engage the crank in your engine?
>
> Allan Arthur
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Starter grinding noise |
Deke,
I remember it well. Remember, I built it. I remember the old flywheel
thread long ago and If I remember correctly, I have the new/beefier
flywheel.
My hard decision is this, I have a real good potential buyer coming mid
next week. I need to take him for a check ride. If he decides to buy, I
can then remove the engine and make any and all repairs. I already have an
understanding with him that "we" will spend several days together doing a
full conditions inspection before I will deliver the plane to him. The big
decision??? Risk one more flight or not??
Thanks,
Don Smythe
----- Original Message -----
From: "fox5flyer" <fox5flyer@idealwifi.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 03, 2007 9:30 AM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Starter grinding noise
>
> Sounds like one of those wait 'n see things Don. Actually, pulling a 582
> to
> get to the starter isn't much of a deal and getting the starter off to
> have
> a good look at it is less of a deal so if I were you, I'd pull it and
> check
> the cause of the grinding noise. There should be some visible evidence of
> it somewhere. Here's why.
> Way back when, at a flyin, I prepared to leave and when I tried to start
> up,
> the engine locked up. I could hear the starter engage, but the engine
> wouldn't turn. I got out, moved the prop back and forth a few times, then
> when I tried to start it, it locked again. This time I successfully hand
> propped it. I then (stupidly) flew the 40 minutes home uneventfully,
> wondering what sort of problem would cause that. During the flight the
> more
> I thought about it, the more I worried about what could have been the
> cause,
> so I pulled it into the workshop, pulled the engine and found a big
> surprise
> that made my hair stand up. The first thing was the 4g ground strap from
> the starter to the engine mount was only hanging by a couple wires, but it
> was only visible with the engine out of the airplane. The next thing I
> found, the one that gave me the chills, (drum roll please) was the
> flywheel
> was cracked almost completely across. The crack emanated from one of the
> gear teeth radiating inward toward the bolt hole. One side was all the
> way
> with a gap of about 1/8 inch at the teeth. The other side didn't go all
> the
> way and there was about an inch of metal holding the flywheel together
> near
> the bolt hole. It was very close to coming apart! What happened when the
> engine locked up (the best I could deduce) was that a starter tooth had
> lodged in the crack gap causing it to bind, but moving the prop back and
> forth released it. What made me cringe about it all was the thought of
> what
> it would have been like if at 6000 rpm on a climb over hostile territory
> (much of it around here) that thing decided to come apart with nothing but
> that flimsy firewall between me and it.
> Anyway, I called Jerry at Greensky Adventures, a Rotax guru at the time,
> and
> he told me that there was an SB on that and he had a new and improved
> flywheel for me, which I received in the mail in a few days, including new
> bolts. The new flywheel was about 50 percent thicker. My engine was one
> of
> the older 582s with a B box so I'm sure that at some point the engines
> were
> all upgraded with the new flywheels. Something to check out if you have
> an
> old one. You may even be able to check it with the engine in the airplane
> using a mirror and good light. Pretty simple to check by serial number
> and
> I'm sure that Lockwood or any of the Rotax reps would have information on
> it. I think the SB # was SB-505-04, but I'm not sure about that. It was
> a
> simple change out with no special tools required.
> The reason I took the time to write all this Don is because of the
> importance of checking out anything that doesn't sound right, especially
> mechanical noises. I hope this doesn't sound like a lecture, but things
> have a habit of happening in the worst possible places and at the worst
> possible times. Good luck and keep us posted if you find anything else.
> Deke
> Ps: Here's a listing of the SBs for the Rotax 2-strokes
> http://www.rotax-owner.com/sdocs.htm
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Don Smythe" <dosmythe@cox.net>
> To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, April 03, 2007 5:31 AM
> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Re: Odyssey battery WAS: 2nd Flight-High Oil
> Temps
>
>
>>
>> The problem has been fixed (I think). I replaced/cleaned all the grounds
>> and hot wires that I could get to. Engine spun right up. However,
>> during
>> the spin up I heard a short duration noise twice that sounded like
> something
>> grinding. Never heard this before. It stopped. After that, I turned on
>> the fuel and hit the mags. She fired right up. The problem seems to be
>> fixed but the grinding noise made me nervous.
>>
>> Don Smythe
>
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Odyssey battery WAS: 2nd Flight-High Oil Temps |
Don,
I may finally have something of actual value to contribute here.:-) I too
once experienced starter problems on my 582. Same scenario, fully charged
battery,etc. I finally resigned myself to the fact that the starter had to come
out and looked at, pulling the engine,etc. After disassembling the starter, I
found one of the brushes worn down to the point that the braided copper wire on
the brush was actually contacting the end of the slot the brush slides in,
preventing the brush from making full contact with the commutator. I took the
starter to a local alternator/starter rebuild supply shop, and while they
didn't have the Denso brushes in stock, they were able to cross reference them
with a suitable replacement. I don't recall how exactly, but the braided
copper on the replacement was oriented differently,but, I was able to "make it
work". After thoroughly cleaning all the components of the grime and
dust(assumably from the deterioration of the brushes), The starter bench tested
strong.
It's been starting fine since, as long as the battery is fully charged. I
don't know what the life expectancy on those brushes is supposed to be, but, my
hobbs reads 844 hrs. Hope this helps.
Greg Gerace
375KL
Mod 2
582
************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Starter grinding noise |
Don,
I think you know risk = no. Even best case, if he
sees you take such a risk he will wonder what other
risks you took in construction and probably back out.
Better to git-er-done and reschedule the
flight/inspection for later.
Just my opinion,
Kurt S.
--- Don Smythe <dosmythe@cox.net> wrote:
> Deke,
> I remember it well. Remember, I built it. I
> remember the old flywheel
> thread long ago and If I remember correctly, I have
> the new/beefier
> flywheel.
> My hard decision is this, I have a real good
> potential buyer coming mid
> next week. I need to take him for a check ride. If
> he decides to buy, I
> can then remove the engine and make any and all
> repairs. I already have an
> understanding with him that "we" will spend several
> days together doing a
> full conditions inspection before I will deliver the
> plane to him. The big
> decision??? Risk one more flight or not??
>
> Thanks,
> Don Smythe
Don't get soaked. Take a quick peek at the forecast
with the Yahoo! Search weather shortcut.
http://tools.search.yahoo.com/shortcuts/#loc_weather
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Starter grinding noise |
Kurt,
I just hate good opinions don't you? I'm going to head out early tomorrow
pull that little sucker and put it on the work bench. I had already just
about come to that conclusion but your email tipped the scale. How knows, I
just might be able to pull this off and get her back in the air by mid next
week.
Thanks
Don Smythe
Do Not Archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "kurt schrader" <smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
> Don,
>
> I think you know risk = no. Even best case, if he
> sees you take such a risk he will wonder what other
> risks you took in construction and probably back out.
> Better to git-er-done and reschedule the
> flight/inspection for later.
>
> Just my opinion,
>
> Kurt S.
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Odyssey battery WAS: 2nd Flight-High Oil Temps |
Greg,
Excellent information. Now I can pick your brain just a bit. I
once pulled the end of my old Ford 8N tractor starter and brushes,
springs and other parts flew all over the shop. Took a bit of
engineering to get all the guts back in. Is the 582 starter a similar
situation or can you simply remove a back cover and view the brushes
without inflicting pain. I don't want to make a similar mistake. Also,
it's good to know that a local starter shop might be able to match up
some brushes.
Thanks, this is the kind of valuable information that can come from
this list.
Thanks,
Don Smythe
Do Not Archive
----- Original Message -----
From: GONER752@aol.com
To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, April 03, 2007 6:11 PM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Re: Odyssey battery WAS: 2nd Flight-High Oil
Temps
Don,
I may finally have something of actual value to contribute here.:-) I
too once experienced starter problems on my 582. Same scenario, fully
charged battery,etc. I finally resigned myself to the fact that the
starter had to come out and looked at, pulling the engine,etc. After
disassembling the starter, I found one of the brushes worn down to the
point that the braided copper wire on the brush was actually contacting
the end of the slot the brush slides in, preventing the brush from
making full contact with the commutator. I took the starter to a local
alternator/starter rebuild supply shop, and while they didn't have the
Denso brushes in stock, they were able to cross reference them with a
suitable replacement. I don't recall how exactly, but the braided copper
on the replacement was oriented differently,but, I was able to "make it
work". After thoroughly cleaning all the components of the grime and
dust(assumably from the deterioration of the brushes), The starter bench
tested strong. It's been starting fine since, as long as the battery is
fully charged. I don't know what the life expectancy on those brushes is
supposed to be, but, my hobbs reads 844 hrs. Hope this helps.
Greg Gerace
375KL
Mod 2
582
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
See what's free at AOL.com.
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Starter grinding noise |
You're welcome Don,
I hear the relief. I knew you already knew the
answer. You wrote the question like you were asking
for the car keys to go out and do a little drag racing
because you were invited, but you really didn't want
to go. You knew better. You just needed an out so
you could do the right thing, which you already had a
plan for. ;-) I just confirmed it is all.
For that I'll charge you one visit next time you are
in Florida. :-) No pre-exposure to epoxy though...
:-(
Dr Kurt S. ha ha
Noes poeseeblay archivus
--- Don Smythe <dosmythe@cox.net> wrote:
> Kurt,
> I just hate good opinions don't you? I'm going to
> head out early tomorrow
> pull that little sucker and put it on the work
> bench. I had already just
> about come to that conclusion but your email tipped
> the scale. How knows, I
> just might be able to pull this off and get her back
> in the air by mid next week.
>
> Thanks
> Don Smythe
> Do Not Archive
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "kurt schrader" <smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
>
> > Don,
> >
> > I think you know risk = no.
Finding fabulous fares is fun.
Let Yahoo! FareChase search your favorite travel sites to find flight and hotel
bargains.
http://farechase.yahoo.com/promo-generic-14795097
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Glassfiber tanks and ethanol - again |
Due to concern about fiberglas tanks and ethanol in CA
car gas, I studied tank sealants last year, from info
on this list, searching the inernet, and contacting
the manufacturers. My conclusion was Kreem was the
one to try to protect fiberglas tanks from ethanol.
As it is not compatible with all fiberglas tanks, they
recommended checking the tank with MEK and acetone
soaking first. I tried that and alcohol on mine and
it seemed impervious. I decided not to slosh it. In
the time since, I have not noticed any problems with
using car gas.
There was rumor, maybe from this list, that the Kitfox
tank composition was changed around 1994, which is
around when the wing tanks on mine were made.
Sacramento Sky Ranch sells Kreem.
John Allen
Kitfox IV Speedster
http://answers.yahoo.com/dir/?link=list&sid=396546091
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