Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:08 AM - Trimming Acrylic Windshield (fox5flyer)
2. 05:11 AM - Re: Flaperon Protective Covering (Noel Loveys)
3. 05:15 AM - Flaperon Protective Covering (Dee Young)
4. 05:41 AM - Re: Trimming Acrylic Windshield (Bob)
5. 09:53 AM - Re: (was) Most HP on a Kitfox? Which Engine (Bob)
6. 11:15 AM - Re: Re: (was) Most HP on a Kitfox? Which Engine (Lowell Fitt)
7. 11:51 AM - Re: Trimming Acrylic Windshield (n85ae)
8. 12:17 PM - Re: Re: Trimming Acrylic Windshield (Larry Huntley)
9. 01:54 PM - Re: Trimming Acrylic Windshield (n85ae)
10. 02:02 PM - Re: Re: Trimming Acrylic Windshield (Lynn Matteson)
11. 03:32 PM - Feul tanks (Larry Martin)
12. 04:01 PM - Re: Feul tanks (Don Smythe)
13. 04:39 PM - Re: Re: Trimming Acrylic Windshield (Lowell Fitt)
14. 04:54 PM - Re: Re: Trimming Acrylic Windshield (Larry Huntley)
15. 05:03 PM - Re: Re: Trimming Acrylic Windshield (GENTRYLL@aol.com)
16. 05:19 PM - Re: Re: Trimming Acrylic Windshield (jdmcbean)
17. 05:58 PM - Re: Re: Trimming Acrylic Windshield (Larry Huntley)
18. 06:12 PM - Re: Re: Trimming Acrylic Windshield (GENTRYLL@aol.com)
19. 06:55 PM - Re: Re: Trimming Acrylic Windshield (Noel Loveys)
20. 07:08 PM - Re: Re: Trimming Acrylic Windshield (Larry Huntley)
21. 07:15 PM - Re: Re: Trimming Acrylic Windshield (Larry Huntley)
22. 08:41 PM - Re: Re: Trimming Acrylic Windshield - Fluff (kurt schrader)
23. 10:07 PM - Re: Re: Poly/Plastic tanks (Larry/Cathy Boone)
24. 11:21 PM - Re: Re: (was) Most HP on a Kitfox? Which Engine (kurt schrader)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Trimming Acrylic Windshield |
I agree with Lynn. You might also use an angle die grinder with an abrasive
disk. It was recommended by LP and worked great for me. Makita makes a
nice 1/4" model that is only about $60 or so. With acrylics, stay away from
band saws. It's very easy to crack the material.
Deke
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lynn Matteson" <lynnmatt@jps.net>
Sent: Monday, April 09, 2007 6:25 PM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Trimming Acrylic Windshield
>
> I used my Dremel tool with a #426 fiberglass-reinforced disc for the
> trimming. A saber saw would chip it as it cuts, and I recall that
> they frown on this. Finish the cuts by filing and then fine grade
> sandpaper, and round the edges slightly. No rough edges should remain.
>
> Lynn
> On Apr 9, 2007, at 6:46 PM, GENTRYLL@aol.com wrote:
>
> > What is the best method to use for trimming an acrylic windshield
> > as furnished by LP Aero.
> >
> >
> >
> > See what's free at AOL.com.
> > www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List _-
> > ===========================================================
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Flaperon Protective Covering |
Is this a sticky paper covering? If so I have just the remover.
When I was in university the security at the university was under the
mistaken impression that they had the right to impound vehicles at their
discretion. The fact that they had no right at that time to enforce the
Highway Traffic Act didn't bother them in the least.
I came out one day to find a sticky paper applied to my windshield. It was
past 5P.M. on a Friday and the security office was closed for the weekend.
Conveniently enough the security on duty didn't have the release agent and
wouldn't have it until Monday morning.
I went back to the Chem. lab and picked up about three ounces of carbon
tetrachloride the same stuff used in Halon fire extinguishers. I poured a
little along the top of the paper and immediately to the disgust of the
security watching me the paper lifted cleanly away I held the paper open for
about a minute and then gave it back to the stooges (Curly and Larry) by
applying it to their windscreen.. The van stayed put until Monday morning.
Since that time another act has been passed by the Provincial Government
which gives the University Security Service the legal right to enact and
enforce traffic laws on the university campus.
Remember, try Carbon Tetra-Chloride A.K.A. Halon. It won't damage paint
either.
The things we did when we were young and foolish.
Noel
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> clemwehner
> Sent: Tuesday, April 10, 2007 2:57 AM
> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Kitfox-List: Flaperon Protective Covering
>
>
> <clemwehner@sbcglobal.net>
>
>
>
>
> My flapesons were made in 1991 and I peeled off the
> protective covering
> last month after 16 years. It came off easily in one big sheet without
> any problems. I know some guys have have a lot of trouble. I
> stored mine
> in my garage all those years, maybe that was the key to not having
> problems.
>
> Clem
> Lawton, OK
>
> -----Original Message-----
> > I know there was an extensive thread on this subject a
> while back, but
>
> > I looked in the archives and couldn't find a definitive answer
> > on how to remove it. Does anyone know or recall how to get this
> > stuff off the flaperons?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Rick Weiss
> > Series V Speedster - N39RW
> > DO NOT ARCHIVE
> >
> >
> >
> > See what's free at AOL.com.
> www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List _-
>
> > ===========================================================
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Flaperon Protective Covering |
I used lacquer thinner to remove the covering which worked pretty good
too.
Dee Young
N345DY
Do not archive
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Trimming Acrylic Windshield |
Lynn and Guy pretty well covered the cutting and dressing. I'd just add that I
use lots of wide masking or blue tape, both in front of the cut, and then behind
it. You don't want to put any stress on the plastic that you are about to
cut, so every few inches, I'll stop and tape across the cut behind me. If it's
a big piece (like a windshield) I'll tape flat pieces of wood to bridge the
cut on the front and back sides.
Bob
--------
Remember that internet advice may only be worth what you pay.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=106056#106056
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| Subject: | Re: (was) Most HP on a Kitfox? Which Engine |
Here's a way to visualize the power and drag curves and compare airplanes that isn't that hard. Kurt is right in that as people and pilots we tend to compare what we know, and it is like the old proverb about the three blind guys describing the elephant to each other. I've got fancy aero books, but the David Rogers series of Beech Society papers was really well done and his graphs were easily understandable without the math. This is a usable reference collection in one place! http://web.usna.navy.mil/~dfr/technical_flying.html
The visualization of the current thread is Figure 1 in "Weight Effects Part 1."
As the airplane gets less drag, the right end of the smile-shaped curve would
move to the right. As we can stall slower, the left end moves to the left.
An earlier and more draggy Kitfox wing would shift the whole smiley-curve to
the left. Why care? Well, for a start, the curve can give best climb and other
performance for your particular airplane! So, if you've got lots of data from
boring initial flight testing, here's a good use!
Note: new sets of curves are needed for different density altitudes. The turbine
guys who learned before everything was computerized are used to digging through
whole books of performance plots to set up for cruise.
As we go up in density altitude, the hump-shaped curve gets lower, unless you have
a turbo that keeps up the output. However, the smile-shaped plot also shows
how increasing power can be offset by the weight of a heavier engine, which
was what I referred to in my earlier post (inadvertently putting speed over power).
Any of us can make such a set of charts, and in addition to being able
to have a set of clear speeds to use for best climb and most efficient cruise,
we can compare efficiencies with others.
Most of us have probably seen Dave Fischers videos of his incredibly short take-offs,
so Ill use him as an example. The smiley portion of a plot for his plane
would probably be low (largely due to lack of weight) and fairly flat (his
reported high cruise speed), shifted to the left (his low stall). His hump-shaped
power curve would be high in relation to the smiley-curve, and the distance
between curves would be the excess power of a healthy engine at low density
altitude. Voila, thinking of the curves in this fashion, you can visualize
airplane performance. (Of course, I feel cramped in the early airplane cockpits,
but the charts dont show that. :) ) From what Dekes posted, I'd say that
his Series 5 is better set up for cruise and wouldnt be as preferable in a really
short strip, as Dekes smile and hump-shaped curves would be shifted to the
right of Daves (again, using the same density altitude).
As for gathering data, it's a pretty rare Kitfox that has a gauge calibrated in
"horsepower" (lame engineering joke) and horsepower is affected by numerous things.
While they wont be exact, the engine makers have posted curves that relate
rpm or fuel consumption (typically as bsfc, or pounds/hour) to power. Again,
not exact, but close enough to construct very usable sets of curves. Here
are a couple of examples:
For 582: http://www.kodiakbs.com/2intro.htm
For 912S: http://www.kodiakbs.com/4intro.htm
Bob
ps -the problem of comparing airplanes is old and the CAFE foundation came up with
an efficiency measure that worked well but unfortunately is a bit heavy on
math and charts that were not really intuitive.
http://cafefoundation.org/v2/pdf_pav/PAV.CAFE.Formula.Deriv.7.7.pdf
See also how they did it in a sample report: http://cafefoundation.org/v2/pdf/rv-9a.pdf
--------
Remember that internet advice may only be worth what you pay.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=106082#106082
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: (was) Most HP on a Kitfox? Which Engine |
I also got a jolt when I read:
>A 4 at 1200 lbs is near full, or full, and a -7 at
> 1200 lbs is near empty. I did most of my S-5 testing
> at 1300 lbs, near empty.
This is a fact as you state it, but the only difference in the two at 1200
lbs is the thickness of the structural tubing, some aerodynamic cleanliness,
the empty weight and the payload. The wing that carries the load is the
same. Agreed that HP is the mitigating factor.
I also agree entirely with your concluding statement:
>Bottom line: Mission dictates and the rest is
> bragging rights. If we want to compare, we need a
> standard to compare to.
My only reason to suggest a performance side by side is to get people of a
like minded mission profile together and put together some comparison data
that all will agree to.
A bit reluctant to say this, but since the demise of the Model IV and older,
the mission can only be determined now by engine choice, airframe is no
longer a factor, unless buying used and I suspect that hurts the factory to
an extent. Not everyone wants big and fast.
Lowell
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Trimming Acrylic Windshield |
I have a bi-metal blade in my big bandsaw, and I cut Lexan with it all the
time. Cuts it like butter, no chipping, and a simple attack on the edges with
a sanding block with some sandpaper knocks down the rough edges. I
cut one LP Bubble door with a dremel, the other with the bandsaw.
Heck of a lot better than smelling melted acrylic from the dremel,
and getting all that nasty grit all over yourself. The dremel, works ok
but if I had to do more than zero, I'll use the bandsaw any day. Practice
on the edge if you're scared.
Could trim a bubble door in the time it took to type this, and probably a
better job than the dremel to boot. :)
Jeff.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=106097#106097
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Trimming Acrylic Windshield |
I agree. I have done a couple w/ the band saw and a fine blade and it worked
very well. Not the one I broke,that was on installation. LPAero will also
tell you how to grind your drill for drilling the holes.
Larry
----- Original Message -----
From: "n85ae" <n85ae@yahoo.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 10, 2007 2:50 PM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: Trimming Acrylic Windshield
>
> I have a bi-metal blade in my big bandsaw, and I cut Lexan with it all the
> time. Cuts it like butter, no chipping, and a simple attack on the edges
> with
> a sanding block with some sandpaper knocks down the rough edges. I
> cut one LP Bubble door with a dremel, the other with the bandsaw.
>
> Heck of a lot better than smelling melted acrylic from the dremel,
> and getting all that nasty grit all over yourself. The dremel, works ok
> but if I had to do more than zero, I'll use the bandsaw any day. Practice
> on the edge if you're scared.
>
> Could trim a bubble door in the time it took to type this, and probably a
> better job than the dremel to boot. :)
>
> Jeff.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=106097#106097
>
>
> --
> 10:59 PM
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Trimming Acrylic Windshield |
Actually when I first started building, I used to spend a lot of time
agonizing about things like this, which are really non-issues. Since I built
my Kitfox, I also built an entire set of lexan storm windows for our house
and I feel like I've cut and drilled several miles of the stuff (exaggeration)
and I have NOT once cracked or splintered any of it. I have even worked
with the stuff in the winter. It's really simple. I use a step drill for drilling
most of the time, but also I have ground some regular bits. I made a little
camper trailer, and cut windows for it with the bandsaw as well. Never
any trouble.
I've read some many posts between this and the Zenith list over the years
you would think it's like working with fine crystal, but it's really not.
Actually I think slipping with a dremel and scoring it, is MUCH more
likely that the odds of wrecking a piece with a bandsaw.
Jeff
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=106107#106107
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Trimming Acrylic Windshield |
I'd rather have that big $400 piece of acrylic resting comfortably on
my workbench, and manipulate my small Dremel tool around it than the
other way around.
To each his own.
Lynn
do not archive
On Apr 10, 2007, at 2:50 PM, n85ae wrote:
>
> I have a bi-metal blade in my big bandsaw, and I cut Lexan with it
> all the
> time. Cuts it like butter, no chipping, and a simple attack on the
> edges with
> a sanding block with some sandpaper knocks down the rough edges. I
> cut one LP Bubble door with a dremel, the other with the bandsaw.
>
> Heck of a lot better than smelling melted acrylic from the dremel,
> and getting all that nasty grit all over yourself. The dremel,
> works ok
> but if I had to do more than zero, I'll use the bandsaw any day.
> Practice
> on the edge if you're scared.
>
> Could trim a bubble door in the time it took to type this, and
> probably a
> better job than the dremel to boot. :)
>
> Jeff.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=106097#106097
>
>
Message 11
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|
I know that aluminum tanks were used previously, and discontinued to
cracks. Does anyone know how they were mounted and installed?
The Great Lakes had the same problem, but was solved not by going
plastic or fiberglass; but by making the gas tank area between the spar
stiffer so the tank wouldn't flex with the stresses. The Great Lakes as
you may know is an aerobatic airplane with about a 5' fuel tank
occupying the center section. I would think that if plywood under the
tank, between the spars would solve the problem for them, shouldn't it
work for our application as well?
I am inclined to use aluminum tanks like most of the other airplanes
flying. I envision cutting the top out of the existing tank, keeping
the bottom, sides, and the compression rib in place and making 2
adjoining small tanks in the space that's left. We are fortunate, as it
is still legal to use "real" gas here, and the farmers won't use
ethanol, so at least for the time being I'm ok. I do have damage and an
unusable tank in the left wing, but I am hoping that I won't have to
cross this bridge for some time. (still have 17 usg)
Forgot to mention, I have an Avid, but assume that the wing
construction should be similar. Knowing the risks of assuming - I ask
for your comments.
Thanks,
larry
Message 12
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Larry,
Did I miss something? Why do you have one unusable tank? What's
wrong with it?
After seeing some plastics fall apart I also feel that plastic might
not be the way to go. If it comes to a point that tanks "must" be
replaced I think all options need to be laid on the table. Another
option "might" be to cut open the tanks and completely lay up the
insides with new glass and an epoxy that is proven ethanol safe (what
ever that might be). Laying up the tank interiors will make the tank
stiffer so don't know if this might add a problem?
One problem that might be bigger than the tanks is the effects of
Ethanol on everything else (fuel lines, alum, carbs, filter, etc. et.)
I have a feeling that we are a bit over anxious about the effects of
Ethanol but it is worth considering for the future. I can't believe our
Government would do something that might be harmful to us. Hmmm, I'm
retired Government.
Don Smythe
----- Original Message -----
From: Larry Martin
To: Kitfox-List@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, April 10, 2007 6:32 PM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Feul tanks
I know that aluminum tanks were used previously, and discontinued to
cracks. Does anyone know how they were mounted and installed?
The Great Lakes had the same problem, but was solved not by going
plastic or fiberglass; but by making the gas tank area between the spar
stiffer so the tank wouldn't flex with the stresses. The Great Lakes as
you may know is an aerobatic airplane with about a 5' fuel tank
occupying the center section. I would think that if plywood under the
tank, between the spars would solve the problem for them, shouldn't it
work for our application as well?
I am inclined to use aluminum tanks like most of the other airplanes
flying. I envision cutting the top out of the existing tank, keeping
the bottom, sides, and the compression rib in place and making 2
adjoining small tanks in the space that's left. We are fortunate, as it
is still legal to use "real" gas here, and the farmers won't use
ethanol, so at least for the time being I'm ok. I do have damage and an
unusable tank in the left wing, but I am hoping that I won't have to
cross this bridge for some time. (still have 17 usg)
Forgot to mention, I have an Avid, but assume that the wing
construction should be similar. Knowing the risks of assuming - I ask
for your comments.
Thanks,
larry
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Trimming Acrylic Windshield |
One thing no one has mentioned yet. The AeroPlastics windsheld is Acrylic.
It is an entirely different amimal than Lexan. Acrylic will crack easily if
not treated well. Lexan on the other hand is used for break resistant
glazing. It has a rubbery consistency and will take a lot more abuse than
Acrylic. You can form it cold in a sheet metal brake. Acrylic will break
in a brake :-) and has to be heat bent usually with a hot wire.
Lowell
----- Original Message -----
From: "n85ae" <n85ae@yahoo.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 10, 2007 1:54 PM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: Trimming Acrylic Windshield
>
> Actually when I first started building, I used to spend a lot of time
> agonizing about things like this, which are really non-issues. Since I
> built
> my Kitfox, I also built an entire set of lexan storm windows for our
> house
> and I feel like I've cut and drilled several miles of the stuff
> (exaggeration)
> and I have NOT once cracked or splintered any of it. I have even worked
> with the stuff in the winter. It's really simple. I use a step drill for
> drilling
> most of the time, but also I have ground some regular bits. I made a
> little
> camper trailer, and cut windows for it with the bandsaw as well. Never
> any trouble.
>
> I've read some many posts between this and the Zenith list over the years
> you would think it's like working with fine crystal, but it's really not.
>
> Actually I think slipping with a dremel and scoring it, is MUCH more
> likely that the odds of wrecking a piece with a bandsaw.
>
> Jeff
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=106107#106107
>
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Trimming Acrylic Windshield |
One of you fellows is talking about polycarbonate and the other is talking
about acrylic. BIG difference. You can cut polycarbonate with tin snips if
you want to. It won't crack,but let a Dremel hog into a piece of acrylic(or
a drill or anything else) and you will crack it. I have cut a fair amount of
each. One of you said Lexan and acrylic in the same context Lexan is a brand
name of polycarbonate. Plexiglas is a brand name for acrylic.
Like plums and tangerines. ;o)
Not trying to start any arguments, just don't want someone to make an
expensive mistake like some have before you. Larry
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lynn Matteson" <lynnmatt@jps.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 10, 2007 5:05 PM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Re: Trimming Acrylic Windshield
>
> I'd rather have that big $400 piece of acrylic resting comfortably on my
> workbench, and manipulate my small Dremel tool around it than the other
> way around.
>
> To each his own.
>
> Lynn
> do not archive
> On Apr 10, 2007, at 2:50 PM, n85ae wrote:
>
>>
>> I have a bi-metal blade in my big bandsaw, and I cut Lexan with it all
>> the
>> time. Cuts it like butter, no chipping, and a simple attack on the edges
>> with
>> a sanding block with some sandpaper knocks down the rough edges. I
>> cut one LP Bubble door with a dremel, the other with the bandsaw.
>>
>> Heck of a lot better than smelling melted acrylic from the dremel,
>> and getting all that nasty grit all over yourself. The dremel, works ok
>> but if I had to do more than zero, I'll use the bandsaw any day.
>> Practice
>> on the edge if you're scared.
>>
>> Could trim a bubble door in the time it took to type this, and probably
>> a
>> better job than the dremel to boot. :)
>>
>> Jeff.
>>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Trimming Acrylic Windshield |
Now we are understanding the problem. The original "glass" that comes with
a Kitfox kit is Lexan. If you have to order a replacement from LP Aero it
will be acrylic. I had 4 shipped to me before I received one that UPS could
not break.
************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Trimming Acrylic Windshield |
Actually that would depend on which kit The acrylic is what is supplied now
with the kit.. We are also a distributor for LP and it doesnt cost
anymore.. sometimes can even save a little
Fly Safe !!
John & Debra McBean
208.337.5111
www.kitfoxaircraft.com
"It's not how Fast... It's how Fun!"
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of GENTRYLL@aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, April 10, 2007 6:03 PM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Re: Trimming Acrylic Windshield
Now we are understanding the problem. The original "glass" that comes with
a Kitfox kit is Lexan. If you have to order a replacement from LP Aero it
will be acrylic. I had 4 shipped to me before I received one that UPS could
not break.
_____
See what's free at AOL.com <http://www.aol.com?ncid=AOLAOF00020000000503> .
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10:59 PM
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Trimming Acrylic Windshield |
The older kits,model 4 did not use Lexan. They used Rhino. It worked
very well for me. Larry
----- Original Message -----
From: GENTRYLL@aol.com
To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, April 10, 2007 8:03 PM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Re: Trimming Acrylic Windshield
Now we are understanding the problem. The original "glass" that comes
with a Kitfox kit is Lexan. If you have to order a replacement from LP
Aero it will be acrylic. I had 4 shipped to me before I received one
that UPS could not break.
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Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Trimming Acrylic Windshield |
My kit was a 1992 and it had Lexan written on the paper. My windshield
broke from the tight radius bend at the end of the spar on top down a line at
maximum curvature on both sides to the bottom. In each case it broke in the
garage while I was in the back working on the header tank behind the seat.
During installation, I did not stress relieve with heat as was later
reccommended to me as it wasn't mentioned in the installation instructions
************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Trimming Acrylic Windshield |
I have to ask, Isn't polycarbonate more sensitive to the effects of
having
gasoline dropped on it? Where gas will just drip off acrylic with
little
damage?
Noel
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
GENTRYLL@aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, April 10, 2007 9:33 PM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Re: Trimming Acrylic Windshield
Now we are understanding the problem. The original "glass" that comes
with
a Kitfox kit is Lexan. If you have to order a replacement from LP Aero
it
will be acrylic. I had 4 shipped to me before I received one that UPS
could
not break.
_____
See what's free at AOL.com
<http://www.aol.com?ncid=AOLAOF00020000000503> .
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Trimming Acrylic Windshield |
What ser # was yours? Mine is (I think) 1805. We must be pretty close
together. Sounds like whatever polycarbonate was available is what was
used. I stress relieved mine and it was in place about 2 yrs ago w/ 400
hrs when it became so scratched and rough that I changed it. I found
some Rhino locally and used it again. Wonder if there is much
difference? Larry
----- Original Message -----
From: GENTRYLL@aol.com
To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, April 10, 2007 9:11 PM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Re: Trimming Acrylic Windshield
My kit was a 1992 and it had Lexan written on the paper. My windshield
broke from the tight radius bend at the end of the spar on top down a
line at maximum curvature on both sides to the bottom. In each case it
broke in the garage while I was in the back working on the header tank
behind the seat. During installation, I did not stress relieve with
heat as was later reccommended to me as it wasn't mentioned in the
installation instructions
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4/9/2007 10:59 PM
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Trimming Acrylic Windshield |
MessageThat is correct. I have a white line down my right door window
where gas leaked from the tank drain while the door was latched up.
That is the next replacement. Larry
----- Original Message -----
From: Noel Loveys
To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, April 10, 2007 9:54 PM
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Re: Trimming Acrylic Windshield
I have to ask, Isn't polycarbonate more sensitive to the effects of
having gasoline dropped on it? Where gas will just drip off acrylic
with little damage?
Noel
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
GENTRYLL@aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, April 10, 2007 9:33 PM
To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Re: Trimming Acrylic Windshield
Now we are understanding the problem. The original "glass" that
comes with a Kitfox kit is Lexan. If you have to order a replacement
from LP Aero it will be acrylic. I had 4 shipped to me before I
received one that UPS could not break.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
---
See what's free at AOL.com.
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List">http://www.matron
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
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4/9/2007 10:59 PM
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Trimming Acrylic Windshield - Fluff |
--- GENTRYLL@aol.com wrote:
> Now we are understanding the problem. The original
> "glass" that comes with
> a Kitfox kit is Lexan. If you have to order a
> replacement from LP Aero it
> will be acrylic. I had 4 shipped to me before I
> received one that UPS could not break.
I just retired from UPS. When I made my side door
glass it took me 5 trys to have 2 that did not crack.
Must be something in the UPS training.... :-(
Kurt
Don't get soaked. Take a quick peak at the forecast
with the Yahoo! Search weather shortcut.
http://tools.search.yahoo.com/shortcuts/#loc_weather
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Poly/Plastic tanks |
I believe you might want to go to the web sights of Solway advanced polymers
and Aero Tec Lab. It appears there are all types of polyethylenes out there,
but the UHMW PE might be what we will need. It appears that Aero Tec might
be willing to fabricate something specifically for the Kitfox. If not, it
also appears that the UHMW PE is bendible and weldable. Evidently there are
some new UHMW welding sticks, but it might take some practice to develope a
good technique. I am just starting to collect information on this subject.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob" <dswaim1119@comcast.net>
Sent: Sunday, April 08, 2007 7:12 AM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: Poly/Plastic tanks
>
> Happy Easter to all!
>
> I'm still up in the air on what to install, but have learned that the car
> and boat makers skipped PE and went to HDPE because there are important
> differences in chemistry and molecular density. Any material we choose to
> use will have limitations and I'm sure every mechanic on the group can
> tell stories about changing Cessna aluminum tanks, Beech bladders, or
> re-sealing Mooneys. Anybody have experience with HDPE tanks?
> Bob
> do not archive
>
> --------
> Remember that internet advice may only be worth what you pay.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=105631#105631
>
>
>
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: (was) Most HP on a Kitfox? Which Engine |
Right Randy.
For you at Sport plane weights, 1200 is "near" full.
But there you are with over 500# payload and still
over 200# more you could carry to the aircraft's 1550
limit, if you had chosen it. And I don't know that
the IV and earlier planes would be packing that all in
safely, or performing well like the V and later with
that same load.
Limited to Sportplane weight in a V and you have a
bigger structural buffer then the earlier planes, but
possibly a bigger payload too, with the available
weight above 1200. Your gross weight limit might go
up more than your empty weight did. For me at 1300#,
not a Sportplane, I felt like I had a lot of room to
go.
Really, they are 2 different planes - the IV and
earlier vs the V and later. As Lowell says, lacking
the IV kits now limits our choices to the heavier
mission only, and just engine choices primarily. The
same size wing will be carrying a bigger load and thus
stall faster.
It is a bit like trying to compare the Cherokee 180
and the Cherokee 6, or the C-182 vs the C-210. Really
different planes, different engines, and different
missions. Same wings?
We each picked what we wanted for our mission. I know
I had a hard time deciding between the IV and the V.
Each had tradeoffs.
Lowell always does good with his side-by-side
comparisons. It takes out the instrument errors and
weather related differences. But we need to either
compare IV and earlier only, or V and later only, or
have them use a standard mission/load to really know.
Otherwise heavy guys like me will always seem to lose.
;-(
But the question we started with was about putting in
enough HP to achieve the best performance of all. You
can put more HP in the V and later than the IV and
earlier by a bunch. Enough that you can carry a big
load and still claw your way out of a short field at
high altitude. This means you need to accellerate to
a faster speed in the same distance pulling more
weight.
Same wing? Only one way to do it. More HP. Without
more HP, the extra empty weight of the V and later is
aerodynamic dead weight. We don't need dead weight,
but more HP is not dead and can overcome the
difference.
So the wing loading and power loading dictate in the
end, if you can carry the same or greater weight
after.
Sounds like something someone with a spreadsheet and a
lot of time could put together??? Don't have that
time right now myself. Best I can do is say that they
are different planes and more HP will work. But
really good comparisons of different planes need
standards.
Kurt S. S-5/NSI turbo
--- Randy Daughenbaugh <rjdaugh@rapidnet.com> wrote:
> Kurt says: "A -4 at 1200 lbs is near full, or full,
> and a -7 at 1200 lbs is near empty."
>
> Kurt,
> I about fell off my chair when I read that. But I
> guess what I am about to
> relate just confirms what you say.
>
> My Series 5 with a Series 7 firewall forward is near
> full at 1200 lbs. I
> weigh 200, my wife weighs 125, - on our cross
> country flights we usually
> have 50 - 60 lbs of luggage and 23 gal of fuel and
> still weigh less than
> 1300 lbs. - Which is a good thing since my fox is
> sport plane compliant.
> Most of my flying is with passengers and at less
> than 1200 lbs. One time I
> had a 300 lb passenger and I couldn't have full
> fuel, but so far, I haven't
> felt the 1320 gross weight is much of a handicap.
>
> I have Grove gear and big heavy tires and a heavy
> pneumatic tail wheel but
> still have an empty weight of 776 lbs with the 912S
> engine.
>
> Randy
Don't get soaked. Take a quick peak at the forecast
with the Yahoo! Search weather shortcut.
http://tools.search.yahoo.com/shortcuts/#loc_weather
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