Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:46 AM - Re: Check your Gear legs (Michel Verheughe)
2. 03:15 AM - Re: muffler, wheels (Lynn Matteson)
3. 03:44 AM - Re: 582 EGT's (fox5flyer)
4. 05:14 AM - Re: Signatures (KITFOXZ@aol.com)
5. 05:28 AM - Poly Fuel Tanks (Temps not Structure) (Don Smythe)
6. 06:02 AM - Re: Signatures (Lynn Matteson)
7. 06:23 AM - Re: 582 EGT's (Tom Jones)
8. 07:02 AM - Re: 582 EGT's (Marco Menezes)
9. 07:47 AM - Re: Check your Gear legs (xfire)
10. 08:00 AM - Re: Poly Fuel Tanks (Temps not Structure) (Randy Daughenbaugh)
11. 08:08 AM - Re: Re: clear coat aeroathane (kurt schrader)
12. 08:26 AM - Re: muffler, wheels (Richard D'Archangel)
13. 08:46 AM - Re: Signatures (KITFOXZ@aol.com)
14. 08:46 AM - Re: Poly Fuel Tanks (Temps not Structure) (kurt schrader)
15. 08:51 AM - Re: Poly Fuel Tanks (Temps not Structure) (KITFOXZ@aol.com)
16. 09:32 AM - Re: Poly Fuel Tanks (Temps not Structure) (kitfoxmike)
17. 10:16 AM - Puking Oil Reservoir ()
18. 10:27 AM - Re: Puking Oil Reservoir (Don Smythe)
19. 10:55 AM - Re: Poly Fuel Tanks (Temps not Structure) (Randy Daughenbaugh)
20. 11:23 AM - 912 Ignition Failure (Anliker, Mark)
21. 12:55 PM - Re: 912 Ignition Failure (Lowell Fitt)
22. 01:10 PM - clear coat (charles)
23. 01:10 PM - trailoring kitfox (charles)
24. 02:00 PM - Re: trailoring kitfox (Marco Menezes)
25. 02:54 PM - Re: 912 Ignition Failure (crazyivan)
26. 03:00 PM - Re: Signatures (Lynn Matteson)
27. 03:01 PM - Re: Re: Puking Oil Reservoir ()
28. 03:11 PM - Re: trailoring kitfox (Lynn Matteson)
29. 03:26 PM - Re: Re: Puking Oil Reservoir (Don Smythe)
30. 05:38 PM - Re: 582 EGT's (Noel Loveys)
31. 05:47 PM - liftstrut (Gerald Jantzi)
32. 05:47 PM - Re: 582 EGT's (Noel Loveys)
33. 06:05 PM - Re: 582 EGT's (Don Smythe)
34. 06:48 PM - Re: Re: Puking Oil Reservoir (Noel Loveys)
35. 07:03 PM - Re: liftstrut (kurt schrader)
36. 07:04 PM - Re: muffler, wheels (dcsfoto)
37. 07:21 PM - Re: Poly Fuel Tanks (Temps not Structure) (kurt schrader)
38. 07:22 PM - Re: Re: Re: Puking Oil Reservoir ()
39. 07:54 PM - Re: 582 EGT's (Noel Loveys)
40. 08:53 PM - Re: Re: Puking Oil Reservoir (Guy Buchanan)
41. 08:53 PM - Re: trailoring kitfox (Guy Buchanan)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Check your Gear legs |
> From: xfire [leonard.perry@acsalaska.net]
> the third pic in the original post is the stub of the gear leg that broke off..
> You may have to read it onthe forum for it to show.
Thank you, I have now seen your photos on the forum. Scary stuff! I don't understand
how it can break at that point but it did, you are the proof of it. Thanks
for sharing.
Cheers,
Michel Verheughe
Norway
Kitfox 3 - Jabiru
do not archive
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</b></font></pre></body></html>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: muffler, wheels |
Hi Mark-
I'm interested in the wheels. I have answered you directly.
Lynn
do not archive
On Apr 29, 2007, at 5:25 PM, markdonahue wrote:
> Hi, I am Mark Donahue, and I have a Kitfox model IV 1050 with a
> rotax 912 UL engine. Can you folks tell me if the new kitfox
> people handle replacement mufflers? or what else is available? I
> have had two weldment failures on the muffler itself although I
> have 750 hours on the plane. Any info is appreciated.
>
> I also have some original alum wheels that come with the original
> kit that I have since upgraded to new split wheels and airplane
> tires. If someone is in need let me know.
>
> Thanks, Mark
> www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List _-
> ===========================================================
Message 3
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Marco, I recall this topic from many years ago that went on for a long
time. This was/is a common phenomenon on 582s and some members felt it
was because, even though the engine is liquid cooled, the front cylinder
receives more air cooling and will tend to run slightly leaner,
especially in cruise. Merle Williams, a previous Lister and a well
respected and knowledgeable Kitfoxer, used a slightly leaner needle and
main jet in the rear carb to balance them. I'm not sure it's really an
issue worth pursuing, because "chasing perfection" in a two stroke can
be an exercise in futility so I lived with the 50 degrees or so
difference and didn't worry about it. I found no harmful effects from
it.
If you choose to attempt to balance them, take Malcolm's advice to swap
EGT leads first to ensure your problem isn't instrument related.
Deke Morisse
N148DM
S5/Soob/CAP
NE Michigan
Hey List.
My 582 is running great. Only complaint is that at cruise, EGTs for
fwd cylinder run consistently about 100 degrees cooler than aft
cylinder, though both are in the green. Would it be ok to equallize EGTs
by leaning only the fwd carb a tad? Either by switching to a leaner mid
range jet needle or just raising the clip a notch?
Seems I recall someone saying not to "unbalance" carbs in this way. Or
maybe I imagined it?
Message 4
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Hello Foxers,
Having regressed to a part time lurker on the list lately, I missed the
original meat of this "signature" thread. I am surprised to find that so many
e-mail applications don't have a multiple signature feature like AOL 9.0 has.
I am also ashamed to admit that ten years have gone by (with not much
progress on my Fox) since I suggested to the original list to sign something more
than a name. I wanted to see who was building what configuration and where
this activity (or lack of) was going on!
I have several signatures configured in my AOL 9.0 e-mail:
Kids:
Love,
Dad
Grand kids:
Love,
Grandpa
Wife:
Love,
John
Girlfriend:
I am going to buy you a diamond ring very soon.
All my love forever and ever,
Me
Kitfox:
John P. Marzluf (John Z.)
Columbus, Ohio
Series V Outback (Out Back In The Garage)
20% Complete, Not Currently Building
Do not archive
************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
Message 5
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| Subject: | Poly Fuel Tanks (Temps not Structure) |
I posted this concern a while back and received a couple responses.
One dealt with the little red jerry cans and asked if I had ever had a
problem with them. My answer was, "NO". The other mentioned the Poly
Technology had been around for years and "what was the big problem".
Went on to mention Poly gas containers in a boat. Both of the above
situations most likely never see operating temps of 140 degrees or more.
I spent a lot of time trying to research Poly on the net. It is all
over the place about 140 degrees being the "max" operating temps. Even
the difference between Poly and Cross linked Poly is small. I contacted
a couple "Plastics" companies as well as the company selling the Poly
fuel tanks. I voiced my concern to them about the high internal temps
of a wing (can exceed 200 degrees depending on paint color). US
Plastics came back with this comment:
I asked:
Can the subject material gasoline tanks be use where the tanks may be
subjected to temps above 150 degrees and possible 200 degrees. I've
read where cross linked polyethylene is only good for 140 degree usage.
What would temps above 140 degree do to the tank material?
They Said:
This can break down your plastic tank. It is only good up to the 140
degree. Once the plastic starts to break down, it will turn colors,
become brittle, and eventually begin leaking.
Thanks
Ashley L. Bolen
International Sales and Service
Technical Advisor & Sales
1(419)228-2242 or 1(800)537-9724 phone
1(419)228-5034 or 1(800)-854-5498 fax
www.usplastic.com or www.usphome.com
I asked the Poly Tank company the same similar question and this is what
they said:
I said:
Sir,
I'm with a group of Kitfox owners that have been discussing your
tanks. One issue I brought up is the internal wing temps that the tanks
can see. I once did some testing with the Poly Fiber Company on this
subject. My 2 inch finish tapes shrunk on the wing tops. Poly Fiber
sent me a digital thermometer and I tested the internal and external
temps of every different color wing at the airport. My temps (Gray
Airplane) ran over 200 degrees internal on a 90 degree day.
They said:
Certainly you have got a valid point but I will tell you that the
operating temps are stated from US plastics as 140 F and softening point
is 240F .
http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=USPlastic&c
ategory%5Fname=28146&product%5Fid=12708
Brittleness temp. is -94=B0F, softening point is 230=B0F and max.
working temp. is 140=B0F.
Our tanks are covered on the top with 1/8" plywood which not only
strengthens the install but that along with the fabric and the paint
provide UV protection and a heat Shield.
Thanks for the input.
ME Again:
This is just meant to raise the question about operating temps for
Poly in the application for wing tanks. Just think about it and maybe
check your internal wing temps before going in this direction. Poly is
only good for a maximum of 140 degrees.
Don Smythe
Message 6
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Geez, John with the wife AND girlfriend thing going on, no wonder
you're not building. : )
Lynn (currently with neither...but I'm flying)
do not archive
On Apr 30, 2007, at 8:13 AM, KITFOXZ@aol.com wrote:
> Hello Foxers,
>
> Having regressed to a part time lurker on the list lately, I missed
> the original meat of this "signature" thread. I am surprised to
> find that so many e-mail applications don't have a multiple
> signature feature like AOL 9.0 has. I am also ashamed to admit
> that ten years have gone by (with not much progress on my Fox)
> since I suggested to the original list to sign something more than
> a name. I wanted to see who was building what configuration and
> where this activity (or lack of) was going on!
>
> I have several signatures configured in my AOL 9.0 e-mail:
>
> Kids:
> Love,
> Dad
>
> Grand kids:
> Love,
> Grandpa
>
> Wife:
> Love,
> John
>
> Girlfriend:
> I am going to buy you a diamond ring very soon.
> All my love forever and ever,
> Me
>
> Kitfox:
> John P. Marzluf (John Z.)
> Columbus, Ohio
> Series V Outback (Out Back In The Garage)
> 20% Complete, Not Currently Building
>
> Do not archive
>
>
> See what's free at AOL.com.
> www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List _-
> ===========================================================
Message 7
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Marco, is this indicated temperature difference has slowly of suddenly appeared,
you must find out why. Could be an air leak causeing a lean front cylinder.
If it has always been that way read on.
The egt on the front cylinder on my 503 was running 100 to 125 degrees hotter than
the rear. The front cyl gage would indicate 1225 to 1250 at cruise. The
spark plug color however indicated the jetting was okay. I have the inflight
adjustable needles and confirmed this by richening the front only. It would 4
cycle (too rich) if I richened it to match the rear cyl temp. It was like this
from the beginning.
I switched the probes in the manifold to see if the hot cylinder followed the gage.
To my suprise the cylinders then indicated a maximum of 25 gegrees F difference
and booth safely in the green at all throttle settings.
Now the confusing part. I then switched the jumper leads on the probe cables so
my gages would indicate the correct gage (front on the left needle and rear
on the right needle) and match the cylinder head temp gages next to them and the
sparrow needle adjustment knobs (front on the left and rear on the right).
The cylinder head temps are important because the 503 it is air cooled. Well,
the egts whent back to their old trick indicating 100 to 125 degrees hotter
on the front.
So, it switched the jumper wires back and everything reads normal and even again.
Bottom line is use plug color and eggine performance (Smoothness) to jet and
consider the indicated temperature to be the base line for your particular
indication.
Now, I get to try my new signature thingy, did it work?
--------
Tom Jones
Classic IV, Phase one
503, Warp
Ellensburg, WA
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=109979#109979
Message 8
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Thanks Mal, Deke, Tom and Bill.
This isn't a sudden, new thing, rather something that I've noticed from the get-go.
Plugs have been looking good so I won't obsess about it.
I'll try Mal's suggestion, then proceed as Bill described.
Malcolmbru@aol.com wrote:
try swapping the egt senders just switch them at the gage , to see if the
gage is right it can be sent to westach for re calibrating. an air bubble
in the head will give a high egt reading malcolm michigan kit foxer
---------------------------------
See what's free at AOL.com.
Marco Menezes
Model 2 582 N99KX
---------------------------------
Ahhh...imagining that irresistible "new car" smell?
Check outnew cars at Yahoo! Autos.
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Check your Gear legs |
The break was right at the toe of the weld. When I first started welding 4130
I was replacing the tail post and lower longerons on a PA12. The tail cluster
was a major PITA but when I got done it looked very nice. I did a dye check
and all was well.. 3-4 days later the tail cluster was cracked all up. After
talking to the local gurus it was determined that by using the TIG process, the
heat affected zone was very small and the 4130 didnot like it. I now preheat
to 500 deg. max interpass temp of 700 and when the welding is complete wrap
with insulation till it is cooled to room temp. I have never had another welding
related issue since doing this.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=109991#109991
Message 10
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| Subject: | Poly Fuel Tanks (Temps not Structure) |
Don,
As long as there is gas in the tank, the temperature is not going to get
over the boiling point of the gas. If you look at the vents of the
tanks
when your plane is setting out in the sun you can clearly see gas fumes
blowing out the vents. As the gas evaporates (probably well below the
boiling point) it cools the tank. The boiling point of gas varies
depending
upon the season (mogas). It is higher in the summer and lower in the
winter. Without researching it, I would place the boiling range at 100
'
150 F. Cars have their gas pumps inside the gas tank for cooling.
I have a black ATV that is outside in the sun a lot and the poly tank is
fine after 10 years. I also have polly tanks on lawn mowers and
tractors
and have had problems only with one tractor ' replaced the outlet with
a
bulkhead fitting and the tank is still in use.
I think you raise a valid concern, but at this point, I would prefer a
poly
tank to the fiberglass tanks I presently have.
Randy Daughenbaugh, N10NH
Black Hills of South Dakota, - Near Mount Rushmore
Home Strip, Grass Room in Hangar for visitors
Series 5/7 (7 Firewall Forward) 912S, Warp Drive Taper Tip
Gross Weight 1320 lbs, Flying since November 2004
_____
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Don Smythe
Sent: Monday, April 30, 2007 6:28 AM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Poly Fuel Tanks (Temps not Structure)
I posted this concern a while back and received a couple responses.
One
dealt with the little red jerry cans and asked if I had ever had a
problem
with them. My answer was, "NO". The other mentioned the Poly
Technology
had been around for years and "what was the big problem". Went on to
mention Poly gas containers in a boat. Both of the above situations
most
likely never see operating temps of 140 degrees or more.
I spent a lot of time trying to research Poly on the net. It is all
over the place about 140 degrees being the "max" operating temps. Even
the
difference between Poly and Cross linked Poly is small. I contacted a
couple "Plastics" companies as well as the company selling the Poly fuel
tanks. I voiced my concern to them about the high internal temps of a
wing
(can exceed 200 degrees depending on paint color). US Plastics came
back
with this comment:
I asked:
Can the subject material gasoline tanks be use where the tanks may be
subjected to temps above 150 degrees and possible 200 degrees. I've
read
where cross linked polyethylene is only good for 140 degree usage. What
would temps above 140 degree do to the tank material?
They Said:
This can break down your plastic tank. It is only good up to the 140
degree.
Once the plastic starts to break down, it will turn colors, become
brittle,
and eventually begin leaking.
Thanks
Ashley L. Bolen
International Sales and Service
Technical Advisor & Sales
1(419)228-2242 or 1(800)537-9724 phone
1(419)228-5034 or 1(800)-854-5498 fax
www.usplastic.com or www.usphome.com
I asked the Poly Tank company the same similar question and this is what
they said:
I said:
Sir,
I'm with a group of Kitfox owners that have been discussing your
tanks.
One issue I brought up is the internal wing temps that the tanks can
see. I
once did some testing with the Poly Fiber Company on this subject. My 2
inch finish tapes shrunk on the wing tops. Poly Fiber sent me a digital
thermometer and I tested the internal and external temps of every
different
color wing at the airport. My temps (Gray Airplane) ran over 200
degrees
internal on a 90 degree day.
They said:
Certainly you have got a valid point but I will tell you that the
operating
temps are stated from US plastics as 140 F and softening point is 240F .
http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=USPlastic&c
atego
ry%5Fname=28146&product%5Fid=12708
Brittleness temp. is -94=B0F, softening point is 230=B0F and max.
working temp.
is 140=B0F.
Our tanks are covered on the top with 1/8" plywood which not only
strengthens the install but that along with the fabric and the paint
provide
UV protection and a heat Shield.
Thanks for the input.
ME Again:
This is just meant to raise the question about operating temps for
Poly
in the application for wing tanks. Just think about it and maybe check
your
internal wing temps before going in this direction. Poly is only good
for a
maximum of 140 degrees.
Don Smythe
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: clear coat aeroathane |
I clear coated my cowl and my wings over the wing
tanks. I wanted some protection from spilled fuel.
Results - The cowl looks pretty good yet, but the fuel
got under the clear coat on the wings and I havent
found a cleaner that will remove it. Stained wings!
Bottom line for me is that the clear coat really isnt
worth it.
Kurt S.
S-5 NSI turbo CAP 140 prop
Down for annual
Rockledge Fl and Panama City
--- Guy Buchanan <bnn@nethere.com> wrote:
> At 10:57 AM 4/28/2007, you wrote:
> >I think the only place clear is used a lot is when
> appling a
> >uncatalyzed base coat to say an auto, then clear is
> absolutely necesary.
__________________________________________________
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: muffler, wheels |
Hi Mark,
This is the email for John and Debra McBean: jdmcbean@cableone.net, who
took over Skystar. There website is http://www.kitfoxaircraft.com/.
My muffler cracked right where the stinger comes out after only about 80
hours. Skystar replaced the end of the muffler, using the original
stinger. They also added a gusset.
I'm enjoying flying my classic 4 out of Jefferson County Airport, in
fact I'm headed there as soon as I post this email.
Have a nice day,
Dick D'Archangel
markdonahue wrote:
> Hi, I am Mark Donahue, and I have a Kitfox model IV 1050 with a rotax
> 912 UL engine. Can you folks tell me if the new kitfox people handle
> replacement mufflers? or what else is available? I have had two
> weldment failures on the muffler itself although I have 750 hours on
> the plane. Any info is appreciated.
>
> I also have some original alum wheels that come with the original kit
> that I have since upgraded to new split wheels and airplane tires. If
> someone is in need let me know.
>
> Thanks, Mark
> *
>
>
> *
Message 13
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In a message dated 4/30/2007 9:03:54 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
lynnmatt@jps.net writes:
Geez, John with the wife AND girlfriend thing going on, no wonder
you're not building. : )
Lynn (currently with neither...but I'm flying)
do not archive
Lynn,
I was just kidding about the girl friend of course. My big stoppage is this
new company I started in 2002! I can't even get near my fuselage any more.
Got to build another bigger shop. Help!
A girl friend would make it all much simpler: My wife would take all of it
off my plate and allow me to live the simple life.
John P. Marzluf (John Z.)
Columbus, Ohio
Series V Outback (Out Back In The Garage)
20% Complete, Not Currently Building
Do Not Archive
************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
Message 14
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| Subject: | Poly Fuel Tanks (Temps not Structure) |
Don,
I wonder what race car drivers use. I have a breather
tank under the cowl of my S-5 from Summit Racing.
Standard tank used to keep the race tracks clean and I
bet they get hot under the hood too. I think the
breather cost me $30 and I got it in matching red. Ha
ha So far it looks great, even taking in hot oil.
I am in Panama and cant call Summit, or any of the
other suppliers to check. If someone back in the U.S.
can, maybe we can learn something new. If not, I will
be checking my tank often.
Kurt Schrader
S-5/NSI turbo CAP 140 prop
Panama and Florida
> Behalf Of Don Smythe
>
> I spent a lot of time trying to research Poly on
> the net. It is all
> over the place about 140 degrees being the "max"
> operating temps.
__________________________________________________
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Poly Fuel Tanks (Temps not Structure) |
Kurt,
Are you not home based in Ky anymore?
John P. Marzluf (John Z.)
Columbus, Ohio
Series V Outback (Out Back In The Garage)
20% Complete, Not Currently Building
Do Not Archive
************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Poly Fuel Tanks (Temps not Structure) |
just paint your plane white.
--------
kitfoxmike
model IV, 1200
speedster
912ul
building
RV7a
slowbuild wings, fuse
Do not archive
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=110017#110017
Message 17
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| Subject: | Puking Oil Reservoir |
I've been chasing a ghostly 582 oil leak for quite some time now and i think i've
finally narrowed it down to the tiny oil reservoir on the 582. It holds only
a few ounces and never made sense why they didnt feed from the big tank but
none the less it has a tiny hole in the cap to allow air i presume and it seems
as though it is puking oil out of that tiny hole.
I'm guessing that this should not be happening and am wondering if anyone else
has ever experienced this?
Jared
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Puking Oil Reservoir |
Jared,
You could simply use the large tank to feed both but, the small tanks is
there to allow you to measure any usage of oil and also to see if any water
starts to appear. Either would indicate a rotary valve seal leaking
problem. Does the little tanks always indicate the exact same level?
Probably not since it's blowing out. Is there any water in the oil?
Don Smythe
Classic IV w/582
Newport News, Va.
Do Not Archive
----- Original Message -----
From: <jareds@verizon.net>
Sent: Monday, April 30, 2007 1:15 PM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Puking Oil Reservoir
>
> I've been chasing a ghostly 582 oil leak for quite some time now and i
> think i've finally narrowed it down to the tiny oil reservoir on the 582.
> It holds only a few ounces and never made sense why they didnt feed from
> the big tank but none the less it has a tiny hole in the cap to allow air
> i presume and it seems as though it is puking oil out of that tiny hole.
> I'm guessing that this should not be happening and am wondering if anyone
> else has ever experienced this?
>
> Jared
>
>
>
Message 19
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| Subject: | Poly Fuel Tanks (Temps not Structure) |
Kurt,
Do you have a measure of the temp in the cowl? I had an extra temp sensor
on my EIS and located it high between the engine and the firewall. I see
temps about 20 F higher than outside temps. The temp goes up to about 30 F
higher than outside temps for a few minutes after shut down, but that is
about it.
Randy Daughenbaugh, N10NH
Black Hills of South Dakota, - Near Mount Rushmore
Home Strip, Grass Room in Hangar for visitors
Series 5/7 (7 Firewall Forward) 912S, Warp Drive Taper Tip
Gross Weight 1320 lbs, Flying since November 2004
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of kurt schrader
Sent: Monday, April 30, 2007 9:46 AM
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Poly Fuel Tanks (Temps not Structure)
<smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
Don,
I wonder what race car drivers use. I have a breather
tank under the cowl of my S-5 from Summit Racing.
Standard tank used to keep the race tracks clean and I
bet they get hot under the hood too. I think the
breather cost me $30 and I got it in matching red. Ha
ha So far it looks great, even taking in hot oil.
I am in Panama and cant call Summit, or any of the
other suppliers to check. If someone back in the U.S.
can, maybe we can learn something new. If not, I will
be checking my tank often.
Kurt Schrader
S-5/NSI turbo CAP 140 prop
Panama and Florida
> Behalf Of Don Smythe
>
> I spent a lot of time trying to research Poly on
> the net. It is all
> over the place about 140 degrees being the "max"
> operating temps.
__________________________________________________
Message 20
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| Subject: | 912 Ignition Failure |
This happened during my pre-flight magneto check. At about 3500 rpm,
switched to Mag A, and rpm's rose. Don't recall how much, but remember
thinking to myself, "that's weird". Switched back to both Mags...don't
recall exactly, but I think engine was running rough. Switched to Mag
B, and rpm's seriously dropped. Then switched to both mags again, and
engine shortly quit, and would not restart. This all happened within
about 15 seconds or so, and as you might guess, was unexpected.
Any and all advice and/or condolences is welcomed. My question,
though...does the fact that both "mags" (ignitions) failed possibly
point to a particular component that may have failed? I'm in the
"infancy" stage of troubleshooting this, so all opinions/experiences are
welcome. I realize the wiring associated with the ignition control
modules are a known weak link.
Here's the installation. It's a 80 hp 912 on a Series 5 Kitfox. Both
engine and airframe have about 100 hrs on them and have been in service
for 1 year. Ignition system was installed as per the Kitfox manual,
that is it's mounted on the engine with the rubber isolation mounts. I
realize others have moved the ignition modules to other locations
(engine mount, or firewall). That may be in my future. Engine is circa
1998 or thereabouts.
I did notice that the cap screw mounting one of the four ignition module
mounting brackets to the intake manifold was loose. It's the same
mounting bracket that all the black leads from the ignition modules
and/or coils are attached. So there may have been an issue with
inadequate grounding (I'm assuming "grounding" based on the
color=black
of the wires).
Anyway, like I said...any and all advice is appreciated from those who
have already dealt with this.
Thanks,
Mark Anliker
Sadorus, IL
217-898-4766
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: 912 Ignition Failure |
Mark,
I too would suspect the ground as being the problem. I have not experienced
your failure so am interested in all the responses. When building, I
envisioned the grounds running across the isolation mounts to be a weak
spot, so they were mounted to the bolt on the module side of the mount and
ran some pretty hefty braid across the isolation mount.
Lowell Fitt
Cameron Park, CA
Model IV-1200 R-912 UL Warp
1998 850 hrs.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Anliker, Mark" <manliker@uiuc.edu>
Sent: Monday, April 30, 2007 11:22 AM
Subject: Kitfox-List: 912 Ignition Failure
This happened during my pre-flight magneto check. At about 3500 rpm,
switched to Mag A, and rpm's rose. Don't recall how much, but remember
thinking to myself, "that's weird". Switched back to both Mags...don't
recall exactly, but I think engine was running rough. Switched to Mag
B, and rpm's seriously dropped. Then switched to both mags again, and
engine shortly quit, and would not restart. This all happened within
about 15 seconds or so, and as you might guess, was unexpected.
Any and all advice and/or condolences is welcomed. My question,
though...does the fact that both "mags" (ignitions) failed possibly
point to a particular component that may have failed? I'm in the
"infancy" stage of troubleshooting this, so all opinions/experiences are
welcome. I realize the wiring associated with the ignition control
modules are a known weak link.
Here's the installation. It's a 80 hp 912 on a Series 5 Kitfox. Both
engine and airframe have about 100 hrs on them and have been in service
for 1 year. Ignition system was installed as per the Kitfox manual,
that is it's mounted on the engine with the rubber isolation mounts. I
realize others have moved the ignition modules to other locations
(engine mount, or firewall). That may be in my future. Engine is circa
1998 or thereabouts.
I did notice that the cap screw mounting one of the four ignition module
mounting brackets to the intake manifold was loose. It's the same
mounting bracket that all the black leads from the ignition modules
and/or coils are attached. So there may have been an issue with
inadequate grounding (I'm assuming "grounding" based on the color=black
of the wires).
Anyway, like I said...any and all advice is appreciated from those who
have already dealt with this.
Thanks,
Mark Anliker
Sadorus, IL
217-898-4766
Message 22
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Does anybody know how much aerothane clear coat they used on thier fox?
Charles
bunchacooks@earthlink.net
EarthLink Revolves Around You.
Message 23
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| Subject: | trailoring kitfox |
I saw WING TOW BRACES as an option in an old kitfox catalog. Does any body
use them? How do they attach?
Charles
bunchacooks@earthlink.net
EarthLink Revolves Around You.
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: trailoring kitfox |
I do. Fwd ones support weight of the wings (keep 'em from flapping when folded)
and attach between the lift strut pivot point and fwd spar at wing root. Rear
ones attach wing to fuse to keep 'em folded. I use 6 quick release pins to attach
braces. Works great.
charles <cookflys@yahoo.com> wrote: I saw WING TOW BRACES as an option
in an old kitfox catalog. Does any body use them? How do they attach?
Charles
bunchacooks@earthlink.net
EarthLink Revolves Around You.
Marco Menezes
Model 2 582 N99KX
---------------------------------
Ahhh...imagining that irresistible "new car" smell?
Check outnew cars at Yahoo! Autos.
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: 912 Ignition Failure |
There are a few Rotax Service Bulletins with regard to ignition module failures. You might want to search the database for your engine serial number: http://www.rotax-owner.com/sdocs.htm
--------
Dave
Speedster 912 UL
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=110081#110081
Message 26
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One of these days I'm going to fly into Millertime airport, outside
of Columbus, where Jim and Dondi Miller have their Aircraft Technical
Support (Polyfiber sales), and see them, and show them my 'fox. When
I do I'll let you know and maybe we can meet and possibly give you
some inspiration to get back to building. I know seeing Bill
Willyard's plane got me excited. I had just bought an unfinished kit
and had never seen one fly 'til he brought his down here.
Ditto on the empty plate after the wife departs...been there, done
that...too many times. I'm not taking a chance now on losing the
plane, so I quit looking...for a wife...still looking AT the ladies,
though. : )
Lynn Matteson
Grass Lake, Michigan
Kitfox IV Speedster w/Jabiru 2200
flying w/250+ hrs
do not archive
On Apr 30, 2007, at 11:45 AM, KITFOXZ@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 4/30/2007 9:03:54 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
> lynnmatt@jps.net writes:
>
> Geez, John with the wife AND girlfriend thing going on, no wonder
> you're not building. : )
>
> Lynn (currently with neither...but I'm flying)
> do not archive
> Lynn,
>
> I was just kidding about the girl friend of course. My big
> stoppage is this new company I started in 2002! I can't even get
> near my fuselage any more. Got to build another bigger shop. Help!
>
> A girl friend would make it all much simpler: My wife would take
> all of it off my plate and allow me to live the simple life.
>
> John P. Marzluf (John Z.)
> Columbus, Ohio
> Series V Outback (Out Back In The Garage)
> 20% Complete, Not Currently Building
> Do Not Archive
>
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: Puking Oil Reservoir |
Hi Don,
The amount decreases (1/4 container per hour) and doesnt appear to have water in.
Will look a little closer. I am guessing that these feeder lines are for
the rotary valve shaft?
I"ve attached a length of clear tube to the top of the cover over the little hole
to see if it still shoots it out the top or to get a better idea of whats going
on.
>From: Don Smythe <dosmythe@cox.net>
>Date: 2007/04/30 Mon PM 12:27:23 CDT
>To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Puking Oil Reservoir
>
>Jared,
> You could simply use the large tank to feed both but, the small tanks is
>there to allow you to measure any usage of oil and also to see if any water
>starts to appear. Either would indicate a rotary valve seal leaking
>problem. Does the little tanks always indicate the exact same level?
>Probably not since it's blowing out. Is there any water in the oil?
>
>Don Smythe
>Classic IV w/582
>Newport News, Va.
>
>Do Not Archive
>----- Original Message -----
>From: <jareds@verizon.net>
>To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
>Sent: Monday, April 30, 2007 1:15 PM
>Subject: Kitfox-List: Puking Oil Reservoir
>
>
>>
>> I've been chasing a ghostly 582 oil leak for quite some time now and i
>> think i've finally narrowed it down to the tiny oil reservoir on the 582.
>> It holds only a few ounces and never made sense why they didnt feed from
>> the big tank but none the less it has a tiny hole in the cap to allow air
>> i presume and it seems as though it is puking oil out of that tiny hole.
>> I'm guessing that this should not be happening and am wondering if anyone
>> else has ever experienced this?
>>
>> Jared
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: trailoring kitfox |
I built a set of them when I was trailering my plane around before
airworthiness certification. They attach to the front spar after the
wing is folded. A bolt goes through the spar where it would attach to
the fuse carry-through tube, and the other end attaches to one of the
brackets on the lower fuse longeron. The purpose of this brace is to
support the wings while towing. You also need the braces that will
anchor the wings to the rear of the fuselage, to keep them from
swinging into the fin and rudder. I can send pictures of the ones I
built. Maybe John McBean sells them.
Lynn Matteson
Grass Lake, Michigan
Kitfox IV Speedster w/Jabiru 2200
flying w/250+ hrs
On Apr 30, 2007, at 4:10 PM, charles wrote:
>
> I saw WING TOW BRACES as an option in an old kitfox catalog.
> Does any body use them? How do they attach?
> Charles
>
>
> bunchacooks@earthlink.net
> EarthLink Revolves Around You.
>
>
> www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List _-
> ===========================================================
Message 29
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| Subject: | Re: Puking Oil Reservoir |
Jared,
I've never had a failure but, sounds like your rotary valve is shot?
Mine uses no oil and will actually increase in level about 1/8" when hot
then back down when cool.
Don Smythe
Classic IV w/582
Newport News, Va.
----- Original Message -----
From: <jareds@verizon.net>
Sent: Monday, April 30, 2007 6:01 PM
Subject: Re: Re: Kitfox-List: Puking Oil Reservoir
>
> Hi Don,
>
> The amount decreases (1/4 container per hour) and doesnt appear to have
> water in. Will look a little closer. I am guessing that these feeder
> lines are for the rotary valve shaft?
>
> I"ve attached a length of clear tube to the top of the cover over the
> little hole to see if it still shoots it out the top or to get a better
> idea of whats going on.
>
>
>>From: Don Smythe <dosmythe@cox.net>
>>Date: 2007/04/30 Mon PM 12:27:23 CDT
>>To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
>>Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Puking Oil Reservoir
>
>>
>>Jared,
>> You could simply use the large tank to feed both but, the small tanks
>> is
>>there to allow you to measure any usage of oil and also to see if any
>>water
>>starts to appear. Either would indicate a rotary valve seal leaking
>>problem. Does the little tanks always indicate the exact same level?
>>Probably not since it's blowing out. Is there any water in the oil?
>>
>>Don Smythe
>>Classic IV w/582
>>Newport News, Va.
>>
>>Do Not Archive
>>----- Original Message -----
>>From: <jareds@verizon.net>
>>To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
>>Sent: Monday, April 30, 2007 1:15 PM
>>Subject: Kitfox-List: Puking Oil Reservoir
>>
>>
>>>
>>> I've been chasing a ghostly 582 oil leak for quite some time now and i
>>> think i've finally narrowed it down to the tiny oil reservoir on the
>>> 582.
>>> It holds only a few ounces and never made sense why they didnt feed from
>>> the big tank but none the less it has a tiny hole in the cap to allow
>>> air
>>> i presume and it seems as though it is puking oil out of that tiny hole.
>>> I'm guessing that this should not be happening and am wondering if
>>> anyone
>>> else has ever experienced this?
>>>
>>> Jared
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 30
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Marco:
The first thing to do is to pull your plugs to see if they are both a
nice
tan colour. If the front plugs are much lighter than the rear ones then
you
are running lean on the front cylinder. Your EGTs should be within 50F
of
each other. You can reverse the probes on your engine to ensure you
don't
have a problem with either the installation of the probes (wrong
position in
one exhaust port) or a problem with one of the probes.
Assuming you still get the front cylinder running hot (lean) and your
plugs
bear this out, then you are now running out of balance and you will need
to
increase the throttle pull on the front carb or relieve the pull on the
rear
carb until the EGTs balance.
Keep us informed on how things look
Noel Loveys, RPP, AME intern
Campbellton, Newfoundland,
Canada
Kitfox Mod III-A, 582, B box, Ivo IFA
Aerocet 1100s
<mailto:noelloveys@yahoo.ca> noelloveys@yahoo.ca
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Marco
Menezes
Sent: Monday, April 30, 2007 12:10 AM
Subject: Kitfox-List: 582 EGT's
Hey List.
My 582 is running great. Only complaint is that at cruise, EGTs for fwd
cylinder run consistently about 100 degrees cooler than aft cylinder,
though
both are in the green. Would it be ok to equallize EGTs by leaning only
the
fwd carb a tad? Either by switching to a leaner mid range jet needle or
just raising the clip a notch?
Seems I recall someone saying not to "unbalance" carbs in this way. Or
maybe
I imagined it?
Marco Menezes
Model 2 582 N99KX
_____
Ahhh...imagining that irresistible "new car" smell?
Check out new
<http://us.rd.yahoo.com/evt=48245/*http://autos.yahoo.com/new_cars.html
;_ylc
=X3oDMTE1YW1jcXJ2BF9TAzk3MTA3MDc2BHNlYwNtYWlsdGFncwRzbGsDbmV3LWNhcnM->
cars
at Yahoo! Autos.
Message 31
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for kitfox 5 1400# gross per skystar manual liftsrut to wing attach bolts calls
for AN4-13A bolts la tor model 5 with 1550# gross use NAS 1104-16 bolt these
are the bolts I will use. for liftsrut to fuselage attach bolt calls for AN6-11
bolt . will this be A weak point? looked in spruce catalog for NAS bolt to
replace the AN6-11 bolt they do not seem to have. question is this AN6-11 bolt
adequate? looking for some feed back? thanks Gerry
---------------------------------
Ahhh...imagining that irresistible "new car" smell?
Check outnew cars at Yahoo! Autos.
Message 32
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Mal:
You got the EGT and CHT mixed a bit... No liquid near the exhaust gas.
Usually if there is a problem with an EGT it is the sender
(Thermocouple)
not the gauge. For that reason it's better to swap the thermocouples at
the
exhaust "Y" than at the gauge.
The gauge may be operating properly and a check of the spark plugs will
confirm the operation of the engine (Mixture wise) good or bad. If the
front plugs are lighter than the rear then the EGT has successfully done
it's job and alerted you to an imbalance situation.
Noel Loveys, RPP, AME intern
Campbellton, Newfoundland,
Canada
Kitfox Mod III-A, 582, B box, Ivo IFA
Aerocet 1100s
<mailto:noelloveys@yahoo.ca> noelloveys@yahoo.ca
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Malcolmbru@aol.com
Sent: Monday, April 30, 2007 12:25 AM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: 582 EGT's
try swapping the egt senders just switch them at the gage , to see if
the
gage is right it can be sent to westach for re calibrating. an air
bubble
in the head will give a high egt reading malcolm michigan kit foxer
_____
See what's free at AOL.com
<http://www.aol.com?ncid=AOLAOF00020000000503> .
Message 33
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MessageNoel,
Please re-read what you said. You are suggesting to unbalance the
carbs to correct this problem (assuming the carbs are in balance to
start with). Don't you mean to change the needle positions to simply
change the EGT's for that carb?
Don Smythe
Classic IV w/582
Newport News, Va.
out, then you are now running out of balance and you will need to
increase the throttle pull on the front carb or relieve the pull on the
rear carb until the EGTs balance.
Message 34
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| Subject: | Re: Puking Oil Reservoir |
Just a little note Jared...
Coolant in the RV oil won't look like little bubbles of clear stuff like
water in gas. With the agitation of the RV the oil will appear milky
when
there is water in it. If you are having problems with oil upchucking
out of
the RV reservoir bottle than I agree with the idea that you have a RV
seal
problem.
Bummer!
Noel Loveys, RPP, AME intern
Campbellton, Newfoundland,
Canada
Kitfox Mod III-A, 582, B box, Ivo IFA
Aerocet 1100s
<mailto:noelloveys@yahoo.ca> noelloveys@yahoo.ca
Do not archive
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> Don Smythe
> Sent: Monday, April 30, 2007 7:56 PM
> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Re: Kitfox-List: Puking Oil Reservoir
>
>
>
> Jared,
> I've never had a failure but, sounds like your rotary
> valve is shot?
> Mine uses no oil and will actually increase in level about
> 1/8" when hot
> then back down when cool.
>
> Don Smythe
> Classic IV w/582
> Newport News, Va.
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <jareds@verizon.net>
> To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Monday, April 30, 2007 6:01 PM
> Subject: Re: Re: Kitfox-List: Puking Oil Reservoir
>
>
> >
> > Hi Don,
> >
> > The amount decreases (1/4 container per hour) and doesnt
> appear to have
> > water in. Will look a little closer. I am guessing that
> these feeder
> > lines are for the rotary valve shaft?
> >
> > I"ve attached a length of clear tube to the top of the
> cover over the
> > little hole to see if it still shoots it out the top or to
> get a better
> > idea of whats going on.
> >
> >
> >>From: Don Smythe <dosmythe@cox.net>
> >>Date: 2007/04/30 Mon PM 12:27:23 CDT
> >>To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
> >>Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Puking Oil Reservoir
> >
> >>
> >>Jared,
> >> You could simply use the large tank to feed both but,
> the small tanks
> >> is
> >>there to allow you to measure any usage of oil and also to
> see if any
> >>water
> >>starts to appear. Either would indicate a rotary valve seal leaking
> >>problem. Does the little tanks always indicate the exact
> same level?
> >>Probably not since it's blowing out. Is there any water in the oil?
> >>
> >>Don Smythe
> >>Classic IV w/582
> >>Newport News, Va.
> >>
> >>Do Not Archive
> >>----- Original Message -----
> >>From: <jareds@verizon.net>
> >>To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
> >>Sent: Monday, April 30, 2007 1:15 PM
> >>Subject: Kitfox-List: Puking Oil Reservoir
> >>
> >>
> >>>
> >>> I've been chasing a ghostly 582 oil leak for quite some
> time now and i
> >>> think i've finally narrowed it down to the tiny oil
> reservoir on the
> >>> 582.
> >>> It holds only a few ounces and never made sense why they
> didnt feed from
> >>> the big tank but none the less it has a tiny hole in the
> cap to allow
> >>> air
> >>> i presume and it seems as though it is puking oil out of
> that tiny hole.
> >>> I'm guessing that this should not be happening and am
> wondering if
> >>> anyone
> >>> else has ever experienced this?
> >>>
> >>> Jared
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 35
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Hi Gerry,
I think the Spruce catalog gives bolt strengths in the
front section somewhere. That and a little geometry
can give you the bolt shear load vs the bolt strength.
My concern in this area is that multiple wing folds
can result in scarring the bolt and creating a weak
area, even in a strong bolt. I suggest keeping this
bolt well lubed and swapping out the bolt at annuals,
if you fold and spread a lot.
Kurt Schrader
S-5/NSI turbo w/CAP 140 prop
Down for annual
Florida and Panama
--- Gerald Jantzi <gvjantzi@yahoo.com> wrote:
> for kitfox 5 1400# gross per skystar manual liftsrut
> to wing attach bolts calls for AN4-13A bolts la tor
> model 5 with 1550# gross use NAS 1104-16 bolt these
> are the bolts I will use. for liftsrut to fuselage
> attach bolt calls for AN6-11 bolt......
__________________________________________________
Message 36
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| Subject: | Re: muffler, wheels |
I sent an off list email just after you posted about wheels.
you have not contacted me
thanks
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=110140#110140
Message 37
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| Subject: | Poly Fuel Tanks (Temps not Structure) |
Right Randy,
I measured the temps in several areas under the cowl.
Wanted to ensure no vapor lock for one thing. Also
wanted to keep the cowl temp below 160 where the
fiberglass gets weak.
As you found, the temps go up about 20 degrees. On
mine though my turbo really heats the area just above
it after shutdown. I put insolation on the cowl near
the hot parts like that and shut down faced into the
wind. Then I open my 2 inspections doors and let the
air blow thru. The turbo is above 400 degrees after
shutdown and takes a good bit to cool. Most of the
rest is below 200 quickly and that keeps the cowl
cool.
Also I installed 2 movable side exit vents on my cowl
because it was pressurizing and needed more relief.
This lowers the temps while operating quite well.
My strobe power boxes are in my wingtips and the tips
are painted dark maroon. For this reason I put
cooling holes under the power supplies to allow air to
circulate thru the power box fins and out the trailing
edge. The rest of my wing is white.
I keep the temp probe on the intake to watch for icing
temps normally, but it is available for testing as
needed.
As to Steve Ws wing tanks, if you read the
instructions that were posted, he appears to put them
in the old tank with only the top removed. Then he
reinforces the tank and encloses the top. It looks
like a good structure and shouldnt overheat the tanks
if you keep the wing color light. Just my opinion.
Kurt Schrader
S-5/NSI turbo w/CAP 140 prop
Down for annual
Florida and Panama
--- Randy Daughenbaugh <rjdaugh@rapidnet.com> wrote:
> Kurt,
> Do you have a measure of the temp in the cowl? I
> had an extra temp sensor
> on my EIS and located it high between the engine and
> the firewall. I see
> temps about 20 F higher than outside temps. The
> temp goes up to about 30 F
> higher than outside temps for a few minutes after
> shut down, but that is
> about it.
>
> Randy Daughenbaugh, N10NH
__________________________________________________
Message 38
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| Subject: | Re: Puking Oil Reservoir |
New engine rebuild with about 60 hrs on it but over the winter it sat during all
our snow and cold.
>From: Don Smythe <dosmythe@cox.net>
>Date: 2007/04/30 Mon PM 05:25:50 CDT
>To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: Re: Kitfox-List: Puking Oil Reservoir
>
>Jared,
> I've never had a failure but, sounds like your rotary valve is shot?
>Mine uses no oil and will actually increase in level about 1/8" when hot
>then back down when cool.
>
>Don Smythe
>Classic IV w/582
>Newport News, Va.
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: <jareds@verizon.net>
>To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
>Sent: Monday, April 30, 2007 6:01 PM
>Subject: Re: Re: Kitfox-List: Puking Oil Reservoir
>
>
>>
>> Hi Don,
>>
>> The amount decreases (1/4 container per hour) and doesnt appear to have
>> water in. Will look a little closer. I am guessing that these feeder
>> lines are for the rotary valve shaft?
>>
>> I"ve attached a length of clear tube to the top of the cover over the
>> little hole to see if it still shoots it out the top or to get a better
>> idea of whats going on.
>>
>>
>>>From: Don Smythe <dosmythe@cox.net>
>>>Date: 2007/04/30 Mon PM 12:27:23 CDT
>>>To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
>>>Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Puking Oil Reservoir
>>
>>>
>>>Jared,
>>> You could simply use the large tank to feed both but, the small tanks
>>> is
>>>there to allow you to measure any usage of oil and also to see if any
>>>water
>>>starts to appear. Either would indicate a rotary valve seal leaking
>>>problem. Does the little tanks always indicate the exact same level?
>>>Probably not since it's blowing out. Is there any water in the oil?
>>>
>>>Don Smythe
>>>Classic IV w/582
>>>Newport News, Va.
>>>
>>>Do Not Archive
>>>----- Original Message -----
>>>From: <jareds@verizon.net>
>>>To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
>>>Sent: Monday, April 30, 2007 1:15 PM
>>>Subject: Kitfox-List: Puking Oil Reservoir
>>>
>>>
>>>>
>>>> I've been chasing a ghostly 582 oil leak for quite some time now and i
>>>> think i've finally narrowed it down to the tiny oil reservoir on the
>>>> 582.
>>>> It holds only a few ounces and never made sense why they didnt feed from
>>>> the big tank but none the less it has a tiny hole in the cap to allow
>>>> air
>>>> i presume and it seems as though it is puking oil out of that tiny hole.
>>>> I'm guessing that this should not be happening and am wondering if
>>>> anyone
>>>> else has ever experienced this?
>>>>
>>>> Jared
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 39
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Don:
The assumption I was making, was that the front cylinder would already
be
running lean. In that case the carbs would currently be out of balance
and
need to be balanced. This is usually done by adjusting the throttle
cables.
At full throttle the EGTs should be in balance because the needles will
be
completely out of the orifices and if both orifices are equal then the
carbs
should be perfectly balanced.
This is pretty academic, as in later posts it was determined that the
plugs
are consistent front to rear so the difference in indicated EGT is
probably
in either the gauge or the thermocouples. (The thermocouples get my
vote,
they live in a harsh environment. ) Even so the gauges can still be used
to
track trends in temperatures.
My own engine was showing a 50+F difference on the EGT gauge. Turning
one
of the probes about 90 deg., while trying to remove it from the boss,
brought them close enough that I can't tell the difference in flight...
Go
figure.
Noel Loveys, RPP, AME intern
Campbellton, Newfoundland,
Canada
Kitfox Mod III-A, 582, B box, Ivo IFA
Aerocet 1100s
<mailto:noelloveys@yahoo.ca> noelloveys@yahoo.ca
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Don Smythe
Sent: Monday, April 30, 2007 10:33 PM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: 582 EGT's
Noel,
Please re-read what you said. You are suggesting to unbalance the
carbs
to correct this problem (assuming the carbs are in balance to start
with).
Don't you mean to change the needle positions to simply change the EGT's
for
that carb?
Don Smythe
Classic IV w/582
Newport News, Va.
out, then you are now running out of balance and you will need to
increase
the throttle pull on the front carb or relieve the pull on the rear carb
until the EGTs balance.
Message 40
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| Subject: | Re: Puking Oil Reservoir |
At 03:01 PM 4/30/2007, you wrote:
>The amount decreases (1/4 container per hour) and doesnt appear to
>have water in. Will look a little closer. I am guessing that these
>feeder lines are for the rotary valve shaft?
Since you're showing leakage outside the engine I don't think you
have a rotary valve problem. (Maybe I should say that if the leakage
is on the tank side you don't have a rotary valve problem. If it's on
the water pump side, maybe your inner rotary valve seal is leaking.)
I had one of these tanks fail in the seam between the two tubes. It
was an incredibly small crack that leaked slowly. It was caused by a
thin seam during the tank's fabrication. I cleaned the tank and could
see a thin spot at the seam. I used a soldering iron to heat the area
very slowly until it was transparent and thereby weld the seam back
together. It worked fine after that.
Guy Buchanan
San Diego, CA
K-IV 1200 / 582-C / Warp / 100% done, thanks mostly to Bob Ducar.
Message 41
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| Subject: | Re: trailoring kitfox |
At 01:10 PM 4/30/2007, you wrote:
>I saw WING TOW BRACES as an option in an old kitfox
>catalog. Does any body use them? How do they attach?
>Charles
These go from the lower leading edge of the vertical stabilizer to
the aft strut wing attach fitting while the wings are folded. There
will be a tab at each location with a 3/16" hole. The struts are
about 16" long of 3/8" tube with tabs welded on each end. They retain
the wings in their folded positions.
Lynn has also described a set of struts that support the forward
leading edge of the folded wing at the aft wing root. I don't think
Skystar ever made them. I use them because I store my wings fueled.
It's debatable whether you'd need them with empty tanks. (Perhaps if
you were towing long distance or over rough terrain.)
Guy Buchanan
San Diego, CA
K-IV 1200 / 582-C / Warp / 100% done, thanks mostly to Bob Ducar.
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