Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:15 AM - Re: Brake Plumbing (Steve Zakreski)
2. 07:59 AM - Re: Brake Plumbing (Lowell Fitt)
3. 11:34 AM - Re: Rotax 582 failure (semi off-topic) (Michel Verheughe)
4. 12:13 PM - Re: pitot tube ()
5. 02:07 PM - Re: Brake Plumbing (W & R Beck)
6. 02:22 PM - Re: Re: pitot tube (Lynn Matteson)
7. 06:03 PM - N998DS (Don Smythe) (Don Smythe)
8. 06:17 PM - Re: N998DS (Don Smythe) (Tom Tomlin)
9. 06:55 PM - Re: N998DS (Don Smythe) (Herbert R Gottelt)
10. 07:17 PM - Re: Rotax 582 failure (semi off-topic) (Herbert R Gottelt)
11. 07:23 PM - Re: RPM check - was Brakes little to none (kurt schrader)
12. 07:55 PM - Re: RPM check - was Brakes little to none (Lynn Matteson)
Message 1
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Andy
The advantage of the flex lines is you can see if you have an air bubble.
My installation is 100% stock Matco, (1997 vintage) with gun drilled Grove
gear and like I said previously, I can stand the aircraft on it's nose.
There may be differences between the Matco brakes I received with the kit
and earlier models, which may account for some people claiming poorer
braking performance. If you have a newer kit, I would install it by the
book. You will be happy with it.
SteveZ
Calgary
IV/NSI/CAP
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Andy Fultz
Sent: Saturday, May 19, 2007 10:13 PM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Brake Plumbing
I'm about to start running the plumbing for my brakes. I have the Matco
MC-5 (I think) master cylinders and wheel cylinders. I will run from the
mstr cyl to the gun drilled Grove gear and then to the wheel cyl. I'm
debating running as much aluminum (1/8" O.D.)as i can with flex at the mstr
and wheel cyls. Is it worth the trouble or should I just run flex line from
the mstr to the gear and not worry about the aluminum and additional
connections required? I do want the most effective brakes I can have. I
know that the Matcos are already questionable and I plan to install the
upgrade kits in them. Thanks guys.
Andy Fultz
AVID Extended Speedwing
Stratus EA-81
Mississippi
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Brake Plumbing |
Andy,
On the Lancair list some times back there was a rather heated discussion on
the brake line issue - Nylaflow vs very expensive metal braied lines. After
lots of reading amd some rather pointed name calling, my friend Brad called
Lancair and they told him there has never been a problem with the Nylaflow
if installed correctly. I have the original lines in gun drillled aluminum
gear legs.
Lowell Fitt
Cameron Park, CA
Model IV-1200 R-912 UL Warp
1998 850 hrs.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Andy Fultz" <andynfultz@bellsouth.net>
<kitfox-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 19, 2007 9:12 PM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Brake Plumbing
>
> I'm about to start running the plumbing for my brakes. I have the Matco
> MC-5 (I think) master cylinders and wheel cylinders. I will run from the
> mstr cyl to the gun drilled Grove gear and then to the wheel cyl. I'm
> debating running as much aluminum (1/8" O.D.)as i can with flex at the
> mstr
> and wheel cyls. Is it worth the trouble or should I just run flex line
> from
> the mstr to the gear and not worry about the aluminum and additional
> connections required? I do want the most effective brakes I can have. I
> know that the Matcos are already questionable and I plan to install the
> upgrade kits in them. Thanks guys.
>
> Andy Fultz
> AVID Extended Speedwing
> Stratus EA-81
> Mississippi
>
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Rotax 582 failure (semi off-topic) |
thank you Bob and Dave for your answers. I have forwarded them to the
owner of the engine.
Cheers,
Michel Verheughe
Norway
Kitfox3 - Jabiru 2200
Message 4
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You mentioned you have a pitot tube from Spruce...pn 15135.I have the pitot/static
tube from Spruce which is similar but has the double tube.You said you glued
a piece of wood to the capstrip to mount the flange.Did you drill thru the
capstrip to run the tube thru or to run the screws thru or did you mount the entire
assembly to the piece of wood you glued to the capstrip?Did you mount it
so the flange is on the inside or outside of the wing?Did you bend the tube back
and if so did you have any problems with that?/also,did you use a wood glue
or epoxy to attach the wood to the capstrip?Thanks for all your help...Leon....Leon
Morris/Classic4 Sptr/1994/50%/Flower Mound,TX
---- Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt@jps.net> wrote:
>
> So that glacier is finally melting, eh?
>
> Seriously, I have always felt that the dealer (or Sensenich) might
> have over-propped the engine. In cruise, it seems to be about 2-300
> rpm short of redline (3300 rpm), and I don't know whether this is a
> good thing or not. I know I'm never gonna over-rev it, as long as I
> don't head downhill, but I'd like to see it pull a little better on
> the climbs. As my background has always been race cars, maybe I just
> don't know the parameters surrounding rpms desired in aircraft
> engines. Strike that...* KNOW * I don't know what I should know about
> props, rpm, etc.
>
> Lynn Matteson
> Grass Lake, Michigan
> Kitfox IV Speedster w/Jabiru 2200
> flying w/275+ hrs
> do not archive
>
>
> On May 19, 2007, at 10:57 PM, Noel Loveys wrote:
>
> > Under powered or over propped ... Doesn't sound like your Jab....
> >
> > Perhaps you just have good brakes.... that's my best bet.
> >
> > No brakes on my floats, which should be getting wet any day now!
> >
> > Noel Loveys, RPP, AME intern
> > Campbellton, Newfoundland,
> > Canada
> > Kitfox Mod III-A, 582, B box, Ivo IFA
> > Aerocet 1100s
> > noelloveys@yahoo.ca
> >
> >
> > Do not archive
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Brake Plumbing |
Just a thought. I have the original Matco system on my Model IV, circa 1991,
using the MC-1 master cylinders and cast calipers, both of which are no
longer in production.
There has never been any lack of braking power whatsoever. None. They will
hold during a full power runup with no creep, though they are kinda
cheezy-looking units. The newer units are much, much nicer.
That said, brand new, out-of-the-box, one of the master cylinders would not
pressurize and had to be sent back to Matco. And this spring both master
cylinders were bleeding pressure off very slowly or not at all after
braking, causing the brakes to drag hideously, and had to be sent to Matco
for rebuilding. It cost very little.
The fellow having problems with his Matco brakes could do worse than just
pulling the master cylinders and sending them off to Matco (good folks,
quick turnaround) to be checked. The problem could easily be there.
Robert Beck
Do not archive
> Andy
> The advantage of the flex lines is you can see if you have an air bubble.
> My installation is 100% stock Matco, (1997 vintage) with gun drilled Grove
> gear and like I said previously, I can stand the aircraft on it's nose.
> There may be differences between the Matco brakes I received with the kit
> and earlier models, which may account for some people claiming poorer
> braking performance. If you have a newer kit, I would install it by the
> book. You will be happy with it.
>
> SteveZ
> Calgary
> IV/NSI/CAP
Message 6
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Leon-
I glued a piece of wood to the capstrip and to the rib. I cut the
piece I used so it fit right up under the capstrip, and extended out
about 3/4" beyond the capstrip. I cut a shoulder on this piece, so
that where it comes out from under the capstrip, it goes up flush
with the edge of the capstrip, and then goes out laterally from
there, being flush with the top of the capstrip. The piece of wood is
semi-round when you look down on it, and thus provides a nice look
when covered with fabric. Because the flange of the p/n 15135 pitot
tube is round, and 1-1/2" in diameter, the 3/4" that goes out beyond
the edge of the 1" wide capstrip provides an area that is 1-3/4" wide
to mount the 1-1/2" flange...still with me? It's actually a lot
simpler than I'm making it sound. Once the whole block of wood is
glued in...can't recall if I used epoxy glue or wood glue, but I did
epoxy varnish the whole shebang when it was all done...after the
flange was test mounted, that is. The glue holds the block of wood in
place, and the screws pull up on the block, against the capstrip, so
really the type of glue is not all that important. Yes, I drilled
through the capstrip and the block of wood right alongside of the
rib, so that the inside end of the pitot tube could lay flat to the
rib. I probably drilled the hole oversize or gouged out the path
where the tube must be inserted through it, to clear the bend in the
tubing. I also put an inspection ring on the covering so that I could
access the pitot tube-to-flex hose connection if need be later on. I
might have even put another block of wood on the other side of the
rib, so the screws (4 of them in all) would have something to bite
into other than the 1/8" capstrip, but I can't recall, and it is not
apparent on that side like it is on the side where the "round" block
is...apparent through the covering that is. Once you start looking at
it, it will make sense what you have to do.
Flange goes on the outside...you must be able to access it if damage
ever occurs. No bending was necessary on the single tube. I have a
static port on the fuselage...two of 'em, actually.
Lynn Matteson
Grass Lake, Michigan
Kitfox IV Speedster w/Jabiru 2200
flying w/293+ hrs
On May 20, 2007, at 3:13 PM, <l.morris@tx.rr.com>
<l.morris@tx.rr.com> wrote:
>
> You mentioned you have a pitot tube from Spruce...pn 15135.I have
> the pitot/static tube from Spruce which is similar but has the
> double tube.You said you glued a piece of wood to the capstrip to
> mount the flange.Did you drill thru the capstrip to run the tube
> thru or to run the screws thru or did you mount the entire assembly
> to the piece of wood you glued to the capstrip?Did you mount it so
> the flange is on the inside or outside of the wing?Did you bend the
> tube back and if so did you have any problems with that?/also,did
> you use a wood glue or epoxy to attach the wood to the capstrip?
> Thanks for all your help...Leon....Leon Morris/Classic4 Sptr/
> 1994/50%/Flower Mound,TX
Message 7
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| Subject: | N998DS (Don Smythe) |
N998DS has been sold. I will now invest the money into a Hot Tub and
other things I can enjoy around the house. Here is an interesting point
that might help others in the future. I have Falcon insurance and the
new buyer was seeking the same company. They insisted that he have one
hour with a CFI in my Fox. I called my Falcon agent and asked him who
was best qualified to give the new buyer a checkout, a CFI that may have
never flown a Fox much less mine or the builder how built the flew the
airplane. His comment was, "That makes a lot of since". Long story
short, Falcon agreed to insure my buyer under the understanding that "I"
would provide one hour of "indoctrination" flight training in my Fox.
We did that today and I logged the one hour training into his flight log
book.
I know the difficulties I've seen on the list with people trying to
get flight training with CFI's in a Fox. This proves you can negotiate
these issues. Don't take the first thing you here. Use your
imagination and negotiate. It might pay off.
Don Smythe
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: N998DS (Don Smythe) |
Don, I'm sorry to offer you a congratulations. I have enjoyed your
balance and wisdome over the years! You should be proud of your accomplish
ments
as a great person, builder, and a mentor to many. I hope you'll stay here
to
'list fly' with us if only through your keyboard.
Respectfully,
Tom Tomlin
Greeley, CO
IV speedster, Jabiru 3300
----- Original Message -----
From: Don Smythe
To: Kitfox List
Sent: Sunday, May 20, 2007 6:38 PM
Subject: Kitfox-List: N998DS (Don Smythe)
N998DS has been sold. I will now invest the money into a Hot Tub and oth
er things I can enjoy around the house. Here is an interesting point that
might help others in the future. I have Falcon insurance and the new buyer
was seeking the same company. They insisted that he have one hour with a
CFI in my Fox. I called my Falcon agent and asked him who was best qualifi
ed to give the new buyer a checkout, a CFI that may have never flown a Fox
much less mine or the builder how built the flew the airplane. His comment
was, "That makes a lot of since". Long story short, Falcon agreed to insu
re my buyer under the understanding that "I" would provide one hour of "ind
octrination" flight training in my Fox. We did that today and I logged the
one hour training into his flight log book.
I know the difficulties I've seen on the list with people trying to
get flight training with CFI's in a Fox. This proves you can negotiate the
se issues. Don't take the first thing you here. Use your imagination and
negotiate. It might pay off.
Don Smythe
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: N998DS (Don Smythe) |
Don,
congrats seem to be in order, since you have been trying to sell your Fox for
quite some time and now you finally accomplished it.
I always enjoyed your logic and positive comments and I hope you will continue
to contribute to this list whenever you get a chance or feel the urge.
Herb Gottelt, Mount Prospect, IL
M-4/1200/912UL
Tom Tomlin <ThomasTomlin@comcast.net> wrote:
Don, I'm sorry to offer you a congratulations. I have enjoyed your
balance and wisdome over the years! You should be proud of your accomplishments
as a great person, builder, and a mentor to many. I hope you'll stay here to
'list fly' with us if only through your keyboard.
Respectfully,
Tom Tomlin
Greeley, CO
IV speedster, Jabiru 3300
----- Original Message -----
From: Don Smythe
To: Kitfox List
Sent: Sunday, May 20, 2007 6:38 PM
Subject: Kitfox-List: N998DS (Don Smythe)
N998DS has been sold. I will now invest the money into a Hot Tub and other things
I can enjoy around the house. Here is an interesting point that might help
others in the future. I have Falcon insurance and the new buyer was seeking
the same company. They insisted that he have one hour with a CFI in my Fox.
I called my Falcon agent and asked him who was best qualified to give the new
buyer a checkout, a CFI that may have never flown a Fox much less mine or the
builder how built the flew the airplane. His comment was, "That makes a lot
of since". Long story short, Falcon agreed to insure my buyer under the understanding
that "I" would provide one hour of "indoctrination" flight training
in my Fox. We did that today and I logged the one hour training into his flight
log book.
I know the difficulties I've seen on the list with people trying to get
flight training with CFI's in a Fox. This proves you can negotiate these issues.
Don't take the first thing you here. Use your imagination and negotiate.
It might pay off.
Don Smythe
ttp://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List ics.com
_popupControl();
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Rotax 582 failure (semi off-topic) |
Michel, I'll be in Bergen, Norway, with my wife, about the 16th of June, for a
coastal cruise northbound along and into some of the fiords. Just out of curiosity
where is your home town in relation to Bergen?
Do not archive.
Herb Gottelt, Mt. Prospect, IL
M-4/1200/912UL
Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no> wrote:
thank you Bob and Dave for your answers. I have forwarded them to the
owner of the engine.
Cheers,
Michel Verheughe
Norway
Kitfox3 - Jabiru 2200
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: RPM check - was Brakes little to none |
Lynn,
Before you chase gremlins, make sure to check your RPM
with an optic tac. You want to know for sure your rpm
is right before changing the prop or other big
changes.
We all get the chance to fix little problems with lots
of time and money. I practically rebuilt an old VW
before finally tracing the problem to a $1.69 ignition
capacitor I could have checked first.
If your tac is reading right, change the prop a bit.
If your are reading low, you might save an over rev by
not changing it. If you are reading high, you could
get more climb by making a bigger prop change.
Point being, tacs are often wrong, so there is value
in checking it.
Kurt S.
S-5/NSI turbo
Florida
--- Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt@jps.net> wrote:
> Seriously, I have always felt that the dealer (or
> Sensenich) might
> have over-propped the engine. In cruise, it seems to
> be about 2-300
> rpm short of redline (3300 rpm), and I don't know
> whether this is a good thing or not.......
>
> Lynn Matteson
> Grass Lake, Michigan
> Kitfox IV Speedster w/Jabiru 2200
> flying w/275+ hrs
> do not archive
http://farechase.yahoo.com/
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: RPM check - was Brakes little to none |
Thanks for the reminder, Kurt. I did check the EIS (tach function)
reading initially with an optical tach, but maybe it's time to recheck.
You're right....I'd rather have a steep prop save me from over-
revving, than a shallow prop that would climb good but have me always
keeping a watchful eye on the tach....or the dreaded flashing red light.
Lynn Matteson
Grass Lake, Michigan
Kitfox IV Speedster w/Jabiru 2200
flying w/293+ hrs
On May 20, 2007, at 10:22 PM, kurt schrader wrote:
> <smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
>
> Lynn,
>
> Before you chase gremlins, make sure to check your RPM
> with an optic tac. You want to know for sure your rpm
> is right before changing the prop or other big
> changes.
>
> We all get the chance to fix little problems with lots
> of time and money. I practically rebuilt an old VW
> before finally tracing the problem to a $1.69 ignition
> capacitor I could have checked first.
>
> If your tac is reading right, change the prop a bit.
> If your are reading low, you might save an over rev by
> not changing it. If you are reading high, you could
> get more climb by making a bigger prop change.
>
> Point being, tacs are often wrong, so there is value
> in checking it.
>
> Kurt S.
>
> S-5/NSI turbo
> Florida
>
> --- Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt@jps.net> wrote:
>
>> Seriously, I have always felt that the dealer (or
>> Sensenich) might
>> have over-propped the engine. In cruise, it seems to
>> be about 2-300
>> rpm short of redline (3300 rpm), and I don't know
>> whether this is a good thing or not.......
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