Kitfox-List Digest Archive

Tue 05/22/07


Total Messages Posted: 11



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 09:21 AM - Is there a better way to hang the doors on a 7 (George Michaels)
     2. 10:21 AM - Re: Straight Breakers vs. Breaker Switch? (Bob)
     3. 11:17 AM - Re: Straight Breakers vs. Breaker Switch? (n85ae)
     4. 01:17 PM - Re: Straight Breakers vs. Breaker Switch? (darinh)
     5. 03:50 PM - Re: Straight Breakers vs. Breaker Switch? (crazyivan)
     6. 04:12 PM - Re: Re: Straight Breakers vs. Breaker Switch? (Don Smythe)
     7. 04:55 PM - Re: Delaminating aileron traling edge (kurt schrader)
     8. 05:44 PM - Re: Delaminating aileron traling edge (kitfoxmike)
     9. 07:43 PM - gas cap venting (Malcolmbru@AOL.COM)
    10. 07:57 PM - Phoenix area (john oakley)
    11. 11:16 PM - Rotax 582 failure (semi off-topic) (Michel Verheughe)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 09:21:05 AM PST US
    From: George Michaels <bajtme@verizon.net>
    Subject: Is there a better way to hang the doors on a 7
    Standard way of the hinge mount, does someone have a better and easier solution. Possible removable doors? If you have a picture that would be great.


    Message 2


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    Time: 10:21:03 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Straight Breakers vs. Breaker Switch?
    From: "Bob" <dswaim1119@comcast.net>
    +1 on the Bob Nuckols website and guidance, especially these days in airplanes with electronic ignition or fuel control. Unlike the days where the mags would keep the fan turning, circuit design has become truly important even for VFR airplanes. For example, the Diamond diesel twin was just AD'd after a couple of flight instructors took off with near-dead batteries and found that retracting the gear reduced the buss voltage enough to kill the controls for BOTH engines. Circuit protection, be it CB or fuse, is not a personal convenience. The protection is sized to protect the wire used, NOT for whatever is at the end of the wire. I've seen shorted wires light paper scraps and lint on fire. Non-aviation wire insulations can actually catch fire or melt off, posing their own hazard. The other thing that is often ignored is that the CB or fuse provides a last-ditch chance to kill a circuit manually. If the contacts in the switch for your electric trim just failed in the closed position, you would probably want to be able to pull the breaker ASAP. Bob A&P, Aero Eng Series 5 Vixen in-work Gaithersburg, MD -------- Remember that internet advice may only be worth what you pay. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=114196#114196


    Message 3


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    Time: 11:17:08 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Straight Breakers vs. Breaker Switch?
    From: "n85ae" <n85ae@yahoo.com>
    Use little fuses, and big wires, and chances are you'll never have a fire, plus they rarely ever break for no reason. Use switch breakers if you like changing parts all the time. These things are garbage at best. At least the ones I have seen. Use regular breakers if you like replacing parts on occasion. I changed a bunch of these when I was in the Navy, a BUNCH. They break a lot. Regards, Jeff Hays Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=114218#114218


    Message 4


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    Time: 01:17:24 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Straight Breakers vs. Breaker Switch?
    From: "darinh" <gerns25@netscape.net>
    Great info guys! I have ordered the Aeroelectric book from Bob so hopefully that will set alot of this straight in my head. Darin Hawkes Series 7 (in progress) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=114247#114247


    Message 5


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    Time: 03:50:34 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Straight Breakers vs. Breaker Switch?
    From: "crazyivan" <dmivezic@yahoo.com>
    Solid advice on this thread. The only thing I disagree with is John's (no offense intended) recommendation about putting automotive breakers under the dash. Automotive fuse boxes are made from plastic (or some sort of non-aviation polycarbonate) and automoticve grade wire. If this catches fire then you'll have some toxic fumes quickly accumulating. As for mounting it under the dash, if you lose some equipment or suspect an electrical problem, being able to see which breaker tripped greatly aides in troubleshooting your in-flight malfunction/emergency. Again, no offense John. This is just my opinion and it's worth the proverbial 2 cents. -------- Dave Speedster 912 UL Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=114278#114278


    Message 6


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    Time: 04:12:26 PM PST US
    From: "Don Smythe" <dosmythe@cox.net>
    Subject: Re: Straight Breakers vs. Breaker Switch?
    I agree that being able to get to the fuse box "might" be helpful in flight. See the attached pic of my panel. On the far right you see a rectangular area in the face of the instrument panel. There is a small knob at the top that opens the door. Behind the door are the automotive blade fuse holders. There are also extra fuses in that area. You can open this door in flight and get access to the fuses. There is also an emergency bypass switch behind the door that will bypass the master solenoid if that solenoid should fail in flight. You can regain connection from the battery to the main buss if the solenoid fail. Don Smythe ----- Original Message ----- From: "crazyivan" <dmivezic@yahoo.com> Sent: Tuesday, May 22, 2007 6:49 PM Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: Straight Breakers vs. Breaker Switch? > > Solid advice on this thread. The only thing I disagree with is John's (no > offense intended) recommendation about putting automotive breakers under > the dash. > > Automotive fuse boxes are made from plastic (or some sort of non-aviation > polycarbonate) and automoticve grade wire. If this catches fire then > you'll have some toxic fumes quickly accumulating. > > As for mounting it under the dash, if you lose some equipment or suspect > an electrical problem, being able to see which breaker tripped greatly > aides in troubleshooting your in-flight malfunction/emergency. > > Again, no offense John. This is just my opinion and it's worth the > proverbial 2 cents. > > -------- > Dave > Speedster 912 UL > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=114278#114278 > > >


    Message 7


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    Time: 04:55:10 PM PST US
    From: kurt schrader <smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
    Subject: Re: Delaminating aileron traling edge
    I riveted mine every 3" just to be sure. Used pop rivets, trimmed and mashed them to keep them small and wide. Not as good as Don S, but strong and no worries. Squeeze a little epoxy in the seperated parts before riveting. Something you can do in plenty of time before your checkride. And I agree with adding drain holes in the bottom back behind each hinge. Think mine are 1/4" holes. Make sure to do this carefully so as not to ding or penetrate the top skin. Put a stop on your drill and tape on the bottom skin so it doesn't get scratched as you drill into it. Kurt S. S-5 NSI turbo Florida and Panama --- wingnut <wingnut@spamarrest.com> wrote: > The tailing edge of my ailerons are riveted at about > six inch intervals and glued. Is this typical? Park yourself in front of a world of choices in alternative vehicles. Visit the Yahoo! Auto Green Center. http://autos.yahoo.com/green_center/


    Message 8


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    Time: 05:44:39 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Delaminating aileron traling edge
    From: "kitfoxmike" <customtrans@qwest.net>
    you guys are going way over board on this. I used an426ad3-3.5 rivets, I have a bunch with my vans rv7 kit. I used a deburing tool and countersunk the top of the aileron and then put in a rivet and sqeezed them. I do 90degree banking turns, I do pull up at 90mph off the runway, I work this plane and no problems with this setup. Mine are spaced 6 inch. apart and no glue. I average 350hrs. a year on the plane, the last time I had to put in a rivet was about a year ago. That's when I put them in there for the first time this way. Hope this helps. -------- kitfoxmike model IV, 1200 speedster 912ul building RV7a slowbuild wings, fuse Do not archive Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=114291#114291


    Message 9


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    Time: 07:43:19 PM PST US
    From: Malcolmbru@AOL.COM
    Subject: gas cap venting
    my new gas cap came today. it is the same brand Eaton with the same type of s steal vent tube welded to it , but the new one is drilled all the way threw the cap and welded from the inside as well, then the old vent holes on the inside are welded shut it is much easer to blow thru the new one. my old cap's are welded from the top only they aren't drilled all the way threw and the bottom is left alone. I am a little worried about gas spilling out the gas cap vent of the new cap my old one has never leaked Last week I flew for 1 11/2 hr and the left tank went dry. the other tank had air bubbles in the hose and I could see air bubbles on the header tank vent line running up and down the hose I was kind of worried about running out of gas. mal KF11 ************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.


    Message 10


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    Time: 07:57:39 PM PST US
    From: "john oakley" <john@leptron.com>
    Subject: Phoenix area
    I and my fox speedster 4 are going to Goodyear this week, anyone in the area? I was thinking someone there wanted a view or ride. John Oakley


    Message 11


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    Time: 11:16:19 PM PST US
    From: Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no>
    Subject: Rotax 582 failure (semi off-topic)
    If somebody is interested, here are the close views of the 582 that went amok. http://rolf.nossum.net/582.broken.rod/ Cheers, Michel Verheughe Norway Kitfox 3 - Jabiru 2200 Do not archive




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