Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:47 AM - Re: Stuck on Spraying (Harold Flynn)
2. 04:52 AM - Re: new EAA website with pics of my classic 4 (Noel Loveys)
3. 06:31 AM - Re: Re: Different heater questions?? (Randy Daughenbaugh)
4. 06:54 AM - Re: Stuck on Spraying (Glenn Horne)
5. 08:20 AM - Re: Re: Stuck on Spraying (kerrjohna@comcast.net)
6. 10:07 AM - Re: Different heater questions?? (darinh)
7. 03:00 PM - Re: Re: Different heater questions?? (George Michaels)
8. 04:19 PM - Re: Different heater questions?? (darinh)
9. 05:42 PM - covering question (jerry evans)
10. 05:58 PM - Items for Sale (Mike Couillard)
11. 06:20 PM - Re: covering question (Tom Jones)
12. 08:28 PM - kingfox tires going out of business? (ron schick)
13. 09:01 PM - Cowling width (tleed)
14. 09:03 PM - Want width of Kitfox Model IV cowling/"engine bay" (tleed)
Message 1
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Stuck on Spraying |
Sounds like your main problem is your gun. It`s not putting out enough paint. You can`t do a $5000 paint job with a $20 gun. Your gun makes up about 70% of the quality of your paint job. The other 30% is knowing how to use it and how to reduce the paint your using. There are a lot of variables to producing a quality paint job. The head on the gun needs to be right for the type of paint your are using. There is a web site that rents DVD`s out for $9.95 a week on how to do things. They have a DVD on SPRAY PAINTING 101. You might want to rent that. Web site- www.smartflix.com.
Michael Logan <michael.logan@cox.net> wrote: Dan,
I see that everyone else is giving you good advice. I used the blush retarder
and it helped tremendously to slow down the drying. You might also trying cooling
it down in your paint booth. If it is hot and dry, the paint will have
a tendency to dry even before it hits the surface. I painted my plane in the
winter time and spent a lot of time and money heating my paint booth up to the
recommended temperature. One day I did not have time to let it get to full
temperature and the surface came out looking better than when sprayed at a higher
temp.
Mike Logan
---------------------------------
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan Billingsley
Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2007 3:21 PM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Stuck on Spraying
I thought I would throw this one out to those who have gone before...
I am currently trying to do my first spraying of the the Poly Brush and it seems
to be drying too quickly prior to hitting the elevator. It is not going on
wet enough to make the surface look wet (as the book says).
The factors:
The ambient temp is about 75 degrees (I have an AC in my garage so I can controll
it). It is a hot dry day outside.
I built a spray booth that has air filtered in and out with a box fan pulling
the air through.
I am using a chepo spray gun (small) from Harbor Feight. I'm wondering if I
need to go get a better gun. I have it wide open.
I'm using a pressure setting of 20 lbs
I started with the mix of 3 Poly Brush to 1 part Poly Fiber RR8500 reducer.
A friend suggested I increase the reducer so I did to 3 to 2 parts reducer...helped
a little...still not wet enough. I'm ending up with a rough texture when
it drys.
My technique is to hold the sprayer about 5-6 inches away from the fabric as
I make a pass. I have tried going slower...nada.
So I have exhausted my knowledge / guesses other than going out and buying a
new spray gun. Anyone have any other thoughts?
Dan Billingsley
Mesa, AZ / KF-IV, 912s
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List">http://www.matronhref="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
---------------------------------
TV dinner still cooling?
Check out "Tonight's Picks" on Yahoo! TV.
Message 2
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Kitfox-List:new EAA website with pics of my classic 4 |
Nice, straight forward, and quick to download on my slow as molasses
dial
up.
Noel Loveys, RPP, AME intern
Campbellton, Newfoundland,
Canada
Kitfox Mod III-A, 582, B box, Ivo IFA
Aerocet 1100s
<mailto:noelloveys@yahoo.ca> noelloveys@yahoo.ca
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of kirk hull
Sent: Friday, June 01, 2007 11:16 AM
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List:new EAA website with pics of my classic 4
Sorry the site is www.roosterville612.org
<http://www.roosterville612.org/>
_____
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
mscotter@comcast.net
Sent: Friday, June 01, 2007 7:17 AM
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List:new EAA website with pics of my classic 4
Uhhh, I think it would help if you would post a link to it.
Mark Scott
Elkton, MD
at, FA
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List
http://forums.matronics.com
Message 3
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Different heater questions?? |
Thanks Guy,
I think I have to study a car setup. This may not be as easy as I thought.
Randy
Do not archive.
.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Guy Buchanan
Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2007 10:01 PM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Re: Different heater questions??
At 03:41 PM 6/3/2007, you wrote:
>I guess a thermastat would accomplish the same thing and probably
>easier to install but less controllable.
Your problem is going to be that your heater core is installed in the
radiator circuit. Cars have their heater cores plumbed to the engine,
so they always see high temperatures, regardless of the thermostat
setting and therefore radiator temperature. Ideally you'd figure out
a way to circulate fluid out of the engine independently of the
radiator. I don't know if it's possible on a 912. If you have a blue
head 582 you can pick from the re-circulation hose. If a grey head
582 you can only tap into the radiator circuit and have to limit the
radiator air flow.
Guy Buchanan
San Diego, CA
K-IV 1200 / 582-C / Warp / 100% done, thanks mostly to Bob Ducar.
Message 4
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Stuck on Spraying |
Hot air is not you problem. I only use a 50 ft. hose on my Binks.
I'm painting a Grumman AAIA Yankee and the paint went on nice. No sags
no runs
beautiful shine. My gun is a Binks gravity feed,HVLP. Only use 18 lbs
at the gun.
Do you have a pressure gage at the gun? If not get one. A Sharp gage is
the best. That way you can set your pressure.
GLENN HORNE
Kitfox Model II
----- Original Message -----
From: Dan Billingsley
To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2007 10:42 PM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Stuck on Spraying
Thanks Glenn, I started at 40 lbs and went down in pressure. I may try
going up as I am using a conventional system (compressor). I do have a
big enough tank so the air has enough time to cool along with 100' of
hose so I think I'm ok there. I was able to find a Binks model 62 on
E-Bay at a reasonable price so I will be able to try again in a few
days. Thanks all for the tips and ideas!
Dan Billingsley
KF-IV, 912s
Mesa, AZ
Glenn Horne <glennflys@verizon.net> wrote:
The setting of 20 lbs is fine if you are using a HVLP gravity feed
spray gun. If you are using
a regular gun you need around 45 lbs at the gun. If its going on dry
add a little more material ( Poly brush).
GLENN HORNE
Kitfox Model II
----- Original Message -----
From: Dan Billingsley
To: kitfox-list
Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2007 3:20 PM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Stuck on Spraying
I thought I would throw this one out to those who have gone
before...
I am currently trying to do my first spraying of the the Poly
Brush and it seems to be drying too quickly prior to hitting the
elevator. It is not going on wet enough to make the surface look wet
(as the book says).
The factors:
a.. The ambient temp is about 75 degrees (I have an AC in my
garage so I can controll it). It is a hot dry day outside.
b.. I built a spray booth that has air filtered in and out with
a box fan pulling the air through.
c.. I am using a chepo spray gun (small) from Harbor Feight. I'm
wondering if I need to go get a better gun. I have it wide open.
d.. I'm using a pressure setting of 20 lbs
e.. I started with the mix of 3 Poly Brush to 1 part Poly Fiber
RR8500 reducer. A friend suggested I increase the reducer so I did to 3
to 2 parts reducer...helped a little...still not wet enough. I'm ending
up with a rough texture when it drys.
f.. My technique is to hold the sprayer about 5-6 inches away
from the fabric as I make a pass. I have tried going slower...nada.
So I have
Message 5
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Stuck on Spraying |
Dan, I am using the 20oz gravity feed from Harbor Freight on the Hatz bi-plane
I'm building and have been very pleased. I have been painting at a lower ambiant
temperature, <70f with good results. The suggestion for retarder is consistant
with reports from years ago from this group.
John Kerr
Logan UT
Classic IV, 912ul, 900 hrs+/-
-------------- Original message --------------
From: Dan Billingsley <dan@azshowersolutions.com>
Thanks Leonard,
Yes, I have the small touch-up gun (gravity feed) and that was my concern. I wasn't
sure if it would be an issue, but apparently it is. I have been looking on
line and educating myself a bit more and as you indicated, the tips will make
a difference as well. I thank all the responses and I may try using the blush
retarder if I still have trouble after getting the new gun.
Dan Billingsley
Mesa, AZ
KF-IV, 912s
akflyer <akflyer_2000@yahoo.com> wrote:
when you say small cheapo are you talking about the 10.00 touch up gun?? It so,
they are really not intended for doing large areas. With that said, do you have
different tips. You should also be able to turn the front adjuster ring to
change the spray pattern. Try bringing it in so it is a narrower pattern. How
much hose do you have, and is the air hot? If you compressor is running all the
time, the air can get very hot and that will screw you up too. Alot of times,
you can add more hose and it will cool down by the time it hits the gun. Do
you have the stop screw turned all the way out so you are getting maximum flow
on the paint?
As was mentioned, make sure you have the lights set up so you can look into the
suface and see the glare as you are laying the paint down. I used a dual head
halogen work light so I could adjust it any way I needed to.
What model gun do you have? It may help us to help you if we know for sure the
equipment we are dealing with.
--------
Leonard Perry
Soldotna AK
Avid "C" / Mk IV
582 IVO IFA
Full Lotus 1260
95% complete
Read this topic online
<html><body>
<DIV>Dan, I am using the 20oz gravity feed from Harbor Freight on the Hatz bi-plane
I'm building and have been very pleased. I have been painting at a
lower ambiant temperature, <70f with good results. The suggestion
for retarder is consistant with reports from years ago from this group.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>John Kerr</DIV>
<DIV>Logan UT</DIV>
<DIV>Classic IV, 912ul, 900 hrs+/-</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #1010ff 2px
solid">-------------- Original message -------------- <BR>From: Dan Billingsley
<dan@azshowersolutions.com> <BR>
<DIV>Thanks Leonard,</DIV>
<DIV>Yes, I have the small touch-up gun (gravity feed) and that was my concern.
I wasn't sure if it would be an issue, but apparently it is. I have been looking
on line and educating myself a bit more and as you indicated, the tips will
make a difference as well. I thank all the responses and I may try using the
blush retarder if I still have trouble after getting the new gun. </DIV>
<DIV>Dan Billingsley</DIV>
<DIV>Mesa, AZ</DIV>
<DIV>KF-IV, 912s<BR><BR><B><I>akflyer <akflyer_2000@yahoo.com></I></B> wrote:</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE class=replbq style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT:
#1010ff 2px solid">--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "akflyer" <AKFLYER_2000@YAHOO.COM><BR><BR>when
you say small cheapo are you talking about the 10.00
touch up gun?? It so, they are really not intended for doing large areas.
With that said, do you have different tips. You should also be able to turn the
front adjuster ring to change the spray pattern. Try bringing it in so it is
a narrower pattern. How much hose do you have, and is the air hot? If you compressor
is running all the time, the air can get very hot and that will screw
you up too. Alot of times, you can add more hose and it will cool down by the
time it hits the gun. Do you have the stop screw turned all the way out so you
are getting maximum flow on the paint? <BR>As was mentioned, make sure you have
the lights set up so you can look into the suface and see the glare as you
are laying the paint down. I used a dual head halogen
work
light so I could adjust it any way I needed to.<BR><BR>What model gun do you have?
It may help us to help you if we know for sure the equipment we are dealing
with.<BR><BR>--------<BR>Leonard Perry<BR>Soldotna AK<BR>Avid "C" / Mk IV <BR>582
IVO IFA<BR>Full Lotus 1260<BR>95% complete<BR><BR><BR><BR><BR>Read this
topic online <PRE><B><FONT face="courier new,courier" color=#000000 size=2>
</B></FONT></PRE></BLOCKQUOTE></BLOCKQUOTE>
<pre><b><font size=2 color="#000000" face="courier new,courier">
</b></font></pre></body></html>
Message 6
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Different heater questions?? |
rjdaugh wrote:
>
>
> Darin,
> My shut off valve is cable activated and is located on the cabin side of the
> firewall just ahead of the heater core. I got the valve and the cable at a
> NAPA store.
>
>
> --
Does anyone happen to have a part number on this valve and cable Randy is talking
about? I have searched and Randy has checked his records but so far nothing
has been found. Any valve that is cable actuated and is compatible with glycols
will do...any ideas?
--------
Darin Hawkes
Series 7 (under Construction)
914 Turbo
Ogden, Utah
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=116399#116399
Message 7
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Different heater questions?? |
Had an old 1970 Doge Truck and the heater valve operated just fine.
Napa part # Bk 6601141 $20.00 5/8 hose size, in-line cable operated.
Kragen auto parts # 74627 $13.00 Kragen goes by many names depending on which
state you live in.
darinh <gerns25@netscape.net> wrote:
rjdaugh wrote:
>
>
> Darin,
> My shut off valve is cable activated and is located on the cabin side of the
> firewall just ahead of the heater core. I got the valve and the cable at a
> NAPA store.
>
>
> --
Does anyone happen to have a part number on this valve and cable Randy is talking
about? I have searched and Randy has checked his records but so far nothing
has been found. Any valve that is cable actuated and is compatible with glycols
will do...any ideas?
--------
Darin Hawkes
Series 7 (under Construction)
914 Turbo
Ogden, Utah
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=116399#116399
Message 8
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Different heater questions?? |
I found the valve and it as stated above...NAPA #6601141. The cable is simply
a push/pull cable also from NAPA. This should do the trick well.
--------
Darin Hawkes
Series 7 (under Construction)
914 Turbo
Ogden, Utah
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=116494#116494
Message 9
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | covering question |
Well I started to cover my wing, did the concave side and looks good but I cut
the fabric where the rib comes out for the flapron to attach and cut it off an
inch to far to the side and up about 2 1/2 inch from the trailing edge
My question is can I patch the cut or do I have to cut it back to the rib cap
and redo the hole bay ? This is the last bay out on the wing tip, I have just
the concave side done now, but I heat shrunk that side of wing the cut expanded
to about 1/2 inch wide anyhelp?
Jerry Evans
96% done 582
Magalia Calif.
N582'er'
kitfox 555
Message 10
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Things are going fairly quickly
Here is an updated list of items still for sale
Homebuilder's Items For Sale
Mike Couillard (719) 481-6282 couillard1@msn.com
* Comtronics Ultra Pro 2000 Helmet with Visor
* With built in boom mic and headset
1 Excellent Condition
2 Size: Medium 7 - 7 1/8
* Retail Value $279+$7.60 for visor (LEAF)
1 Sell for $170
* Delcom Air 960 VHF/AM Handheld Radio
* With new nicad battery, AC/DC charger, antenna, and cigarette
lighter plug
1 Excellent Condition
* Suitable for panel mounting
1 Sell for $180 OBO
* Quickie Antenna Kit (good for mounting an antenna inside a
wooden or composite fuselage)--$22.15 @ Aircraft Spruce-Sell for $15
* Harbor Freight Model 34231 Bench Top Drill Press (1/3 HP)-Sell
for $40
1 Homebuilder Tool Kit (all tools in new condition)
* Florian Fabric Pinker-Retail $35.95-Sell $23
1 Shaviv Deburring Tool Retail $19.95-Sell $10
2 Assorted Cleco set and Pliers-$25
3 One Touch Tach CerMark $54.95 list-Sell for $40
* Consolidated Devices, Inc. (CDI) Dial Torque Wrench Model 6002
LDIN KL45 (0 to 600 inch pounds range) Retail $207-Sell for $150
* Purolator F21124 Fuel Filter for Mini Max-Sell for $3
1 12 slightly used B8ES NGK Spark Plugs with 20 hours engine
time-All for $10
Mike Couillard
Business Development Manager
Aleut Management Services
5520 Tech Center Dr., Ste. 200
Colorado Springs CO 80919
Ph (719) 262-7196 / Fax (719) 623-0538
mike.couillard@aleutmgt.com
www.aleutmgt.com <http://www.aleutmgt.com/>
Our Service Today, Tomorrow's Benchmark!
Message 11
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: covering question |
Jerry, you can patch it. Check the repairing section in the polyfiber manual.
You poly tach a patch (piece of fabric) over the tear then shrink it to pull
the tear back together. The manual will tell you how much overlap you need.
If you are lucky the finish tapes you put over the rib and trailing edge will
hide the repair. In any case the patch will make the strength good as new. Give
it a try and if you don't like how it turns out or looks you can replace the
whole bay fairly easy. As you progress with your covering you will be pleased
at how easy it is to remove a mistake and do it over.
--------
Tom Jones
Classic IV, Phase one
503, Warp
Ellensburg, WA
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=116526#116526
Message 12
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | kingfox tires going out of business? |
Saw the current add on Barnstormers.com for Mippi ultralights tires.
Heading was "Going out of business" Search Kitfoxs and the add comes up.
Ron NB Ore. KF Speedster, redrive VW.
_________________________________________________________________
Get a preview of Live Earth, the hottest event this summer - only on MSN
http://liveearth.msn.com?source=msntaglineliveearthhm
Message 13
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
I just bought a Kitfox Model IV unassembled kit from the original purchaser. My
purchase includes no firewall-forward items.
So I'm researching engines and need to know the maximum internal width of the "engine
bay" inside the Model IV factory cowling. I'd like to compare this to the
cowl supplied by Great Plains for their VW motor for the Kitfox. I understand
the VW motors are 32 inches wide, while a Corvair motor, for instance, is substantially
narrower at 28 inches. I suppose that's because the Corvair's displacement
is distributed among more cylinders.
At any rate, if anybody has the width of the Rotax 912 & 914 and Subaru EA-81,
I'd like to see that, too. That would tell me how accommodating the factory cowl
can be to both "supported" and "unsupported" engines.
Incidentally, I tried to get the width of the factory cowling from Kitfox, but
they have a policy against releasing dimensions, so I can't get it there. Can
somebody with a tape measure help me out? And where did you folks get cowlings
from that mounted Subarus? From Kitfox or elsewhere?
Thomas
--------
Kitfox Model IV-1200
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=116576#116576
Message 14
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Want width of Kitfox Model IV cowling/"engine bay" |
I just bought a Kitfox Model IV unassembled kit from the original purchaser. My
purchase includes no firewall-forward items.
So I'm researching engines and need to know the maximum internal width of the "engine
bay" inside the Model IV factory cowling. I'd like to compare this to the
cowl supplied by Great Plains for their VW motor for the Kitfox. I understand
the VW motors are 32 inches wide, while a Corvair motor, for instance, is substantially
narrower at 28 inches. I suppose that's because the Corvair's displacement
is distributed among more cylinders.
At any rate, if anybody has the width of the Rotax 912 & 914 and Subaru EA-81,
I'd like to see that, too. That would tell me how accommodating the factory cowl
can be to both "supported" and "unsupported" engines.
Incidentally, I tried to get the width of the factory cowling from Kitfox, but
they have a policy against releasing dimensions, so I can't get it there. Can
somebody with a tape measure help me out? And where did you folks get cowlings
from that mounted Subarus? From Kitfox or elsewhere?
Thomas
--------
Kitfox Model IV-1200
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=116577#116577
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|