Kitfox-List Digest Archive

Mon 07/02/07


Total Messages Posted: 26



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 12:49 AM - Re: Flaperons (john oakley)
     2. 07:32 AM - Re: Flaperons (clemwehner)
     3. 08:12 AM - Re: Re: Pre Cover and Finish Thoughts? (Cudnohufsky's)
     4. 08:29 AM - Re: Arlington 2007 (Don McIntosh)
     5. 10:04 AM - King Fox Tires Available @ OSH KOSH - LIMITED QUANTITIES  (Kevin Ridsdale)
     6. 10:26 AM - Re: Re: Pre Cover and Finish Thoughts? (Noel Loveys)
     7. 10:36 AM - Re: Flaperons (Noel Loveys)
     8. 11:03 AM - Kurts Struts (Don G)
     9. 12:40 PM - Re: What are the differences between a Model IV 1050 and Model 1200 Kitfox ? (Torgeir Mortensen)
    10. 01:09 PM - Re: What are the differences between a Model IV 1050 and Model 1200 Kitfox ? (Dave G.)
    11. 01:13 PM - Re: Re: Pre Cover and Finish Thoughts? (Dave G.)
    12. 01:42 PM - Re: What are the differences between a Model IV 1050 and Model 1200 Kitfox ? (Lowell Fitt)
    13. 02:04 PM - Re: What are the differences between a Model IV 1050 and Model 1200 Kitfox ? (Dave G.)
    14. 02:12 PM - Re: Tail Wheel spring tension (Noel Loveys)
    15. 03:33 PM - Re: What are the differences between a Model IV 1050 and Model 1200 Kitfox ? (jdmcbean)
    16. 03:35 PM - Re: Re: Pre Cover and Finish Thoughts? (kurt schrader)
    17. 03:42 PM - Re: Re: Pre Cover and Finish Thoughts? (kurt schrader)
    18. 04:00 PM - Re: Flaperons (kurt schrader)
    19. 04:41 PM - Re: Flaperons (Tom Jones)
    20. 04:44 PM - Utah Fly-In Lunch (Dan Billingsley)
    21. 05:01 PM - Re: Utah Fly-In Lunch (darinh)
    22. 05:51 PM - differences between a Model IV 1050 and Model 1200 Kitfox ? (fox5flyer)
    23. 06:59 PM - Re: Flaperons ()
    24. 07:00 PM - Re: Tail Wheel spring tension (Paul)
    25. 07:21 PM - Flaperons film removal (Dee Young)
    26. 08:30 PM - Re: Re: Arlington 2007 (mic thiessen)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 12:49:46 AM PST US
    From: "john oakley" <john@leptron.com>
    Subject: Flaperons
    Leon, My fox is a 92 vintage finished up in 98. 912ul with 800 hours on it now, the short wing (I run both) does not have the slits in the flaperons. I could not figure how to so this and make it look good. I have never had any binding or other problems with it this way and would not cut them if I was building now. John Oakley -----Original Message----- From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of l.morris@tx.rr.com Sent: Saturday, June 30, 2007 7:40 AM Subject: Kitfox-List: Flaperons All: I was just reading in the archives about the slits cut all the way around on the speedster flaperons.Some of you stated or you thought they were no longer recommended or required to be there.Has anyone got a good reference or have it in writing that this was done away with.Mine is a 94 model and it is still listed in the manual as a procedure to do on the speedster. Also,does anyone have a good way to remove the film from the flaperons? I have tried WD 40,paint prep and remover, and "goo-be-gone". No luck.---Leon Morris/Classic4 Spstr/94/50%/Flower Mound,TX


    Message 2


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    Time: 07:32:35 AM PST US
    From: "clemwehner" <clemwehner@sbcglobal.net>
    Subject: Flaperons
    It would be interesting to figure out what causes the film to stick to the flaperons, so maybe we could minimize the problem in the future. Could it be storage conditions, humidity, temperature, or is it the material used? My flaperons were stored hanging on the wall in my garage in Oklahoma from 1991 until this winter (2007). 16 years of storage and I peeled the covering right off in one pull. Each side of the flaperon covering came off in a big sheet with no tendency to stick or tear. Our humidity averages about 50% in the garage and the temps in the garage run from about 90 in the summer to 45 in the winter. It might be interesting to hear about the storage conditions from some who have had a lot of problems removing the covering. Clem KFIV,912, #1461 Lawton, OK On Jun 30, 2007, at 11:36 PM, Guy Buchanan wrote: > > At 06:40 AM 6/30/2007, you wrote: >> Also,does anyone have a good way to remove the film from the >> flaperons? I have tried WD 40,paint prep and remover, and "goo-be- >> gone". > > Check the archives; this has been a popular subject. > > > Guy Buchanan, Kitfox List Moderator


    Message 3


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    Time: 08:12:55 AM PST US
    From: "Cudnohufsky's" <7suds@Chartermi.net>
    Subject: Re: Pre Cover and Finish Thoughts?
    Andy, Lynn's comments below reminded me of another painting tip, after you have taped for your second color shoot the edges of the tape with the base color first, then if there is "blow-under" it will be the same color and will seal the holes and edges so when you shoot the 2nd color it will not creep under the tape. It works, I have used this method. Lloyd Model 4 built-flown-sold Model 5 building 912 UP of Mi (do not archive)


    Message 4


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    Time: 08:29:52 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Arlington 2007
    From: "Don McIntosh" <don@contractorsnorthwest.com>
    I will be driving to the fly-in on Friday with a group of the Spokane EAA Chapter 79. We have 4 adjacent campsites reserved somewhere so I can be located that way. I look forward to meeting some of you there. It sounds like we should have a fair representation attending the airshow. Maybe we should arrange a time and place to all get together - at the Kitfox display booth perhaps, maybe noon Saturday? -------- Don McIntosh Series 7 under construction 912S (probably) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=121783#121783


    Message 5


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    Time: 10:04:43 AM PST US
    From: Kevin Ridsdale <ksridsdale@mipowerparachute.com>
    Subject: King Fox Tires Available @ OSH KOSH - LIMITED QUANTITIES
    NOTICE to KIT FOX FLIERS MiPPi Ultralights is taking orders for King Fox Tires to be delivered on Saturday July 28 for 7:00AM. This is the last of our stock 50 sets. Reserve today. We are only making the trip if we have enough orders in advance. Cost is $36.00/pr. Hope to see you there. Kevin MiPPi Ultralights 734-377-2670


    Message 6


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    Time: 10:26:26 AM PST US
    From: "Noel Loveys" <noelloveys@yahoo.ca>
    Subject: Re: Pre Cover and Finish Thoughts?
    Next thing to a friket, Eh, Lynn. Sorry.... One day after Canada day and I still haven't got the Eh out :-) Noel > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com > [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of > Lynn Matteson > Sent: Sunday, July 01, 2007 10:51 PM > To: kitfox-list@matronics.com > Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Re: Pre Cover and Finish Thoughts? > > > > > Andy- > > I had another thought about applying the masking tapes...get the > plastic fine-line tapes from your local auto paint store. When using > them don't pull to stretch them, just pull them taut. Use them for > where you are going to have a stripe, or wherever there is a change > of color. Once the fine line tape is down, you can use regular > masking tape (good quality) for applying the masking paper...NOT > newspaper (it bleeds the color through sometimes, because it is > porous)...to the fine line tape. And whenever one tape crosses > another, make SURE you use your fingernail to *absolutely* make sure > that the crossing tape is tight up to the underlying tape, or you'll > get a "blow-under" of paint which you will see when the tape is > removed. Even if you don't have one tape crossing another, this can > happen even where the tape crosses your false ribs, or other hard > edges, and even your finishing tapes. One of my wings shows some of > this behavior, but I got better when I did the second wing. > > > Lynn Matteson > Grass Lake, Michigan > Kitfox IV Speedster w/Jabiru 2200 > flying w/350+ hrs > > > On Jun 30, 2007, at 3:07 PM, Andy Fultz wrote: > > > <andynfultz@bellsouth.net> > > > > Thanks guys for the many comments and suggestions you have > > offered. I THINK > > I have done about all I can do in preparation for the covering > > process. I > > have one more wire to run and everything I can think of has at > > least been > > prefit and removed or left in place if it won't interfere with the > > covering. > > I do believe I have about run out of excuses to go ahead > and get it > > done. > > If anything else comes to mind I'm still listening. Thanks again. > > > > Andy Fultz > > > > > > > > >


    Message 7


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    Time: 10:36:36 AM PST US
    From: "Noel Loveys" <noelloveys@yahoo.ca>
    Subject: Flaperons
    Lynn: I like your idea of using the paper towels and mineral spirits but I don't think the heat developed by a hair dryer would delaminate the flaperons.... I can't remember the temperature we used to do bonding at. Technical school is a few years away now but I think it was 200F or higher. (Too lazy today to look it up) As a rule of thumb I'd say if it is too hot to hold with your bare hand... It's too hot. Noel Loveys, RPP, AME intern Campbellton, Newfoundland, Canada Kitfox Mod III-A, 582, B box, Ivo IFA Aerocet 1100s <mailto:noelloveys@yahoo.ca> noelloveys@yahoo.ca Do not archive > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com > [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of > Lynn Matteson > Sent: Sunday, July 01, 2007 11:17 PM > To: kitfox-list@matronics.com > Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Flaperons > > > > Even if you did, the hairdryer is probably not a good idea, due to > the internal structure of the flaperon having some foam inside. I > don't know how much temperature this foam will stand, or the > adhesive > that secures it all. > > > Lynn Matteson > Grass Lake, Michigan > Kitfox IV Speedster w/Jabiru 2200 > flying w/350+ hrs > > > On Jul 1, 2007, at 11:18 AM, <l.morris@tx.rr.com> wrote: > > > > > I did check the archives,thought I mentioned that.Was just looking > > for a quick and easy was to do it. Don't have a 11 year old > > daughter with a hairdryer. Thanks to all who imputed. Leon Morris/ > > classic 4 (94)/50%/ Flower Mound,TX Do not archive > > ---- Guy Buchanan <bnn@nethere.com> wrote: > >> > >> At 06:40 AM 6/30/2007, you wrote: > >>> Also,does anyone have a good way to remove the film from the > >>> flaperons? I have tried WD 40,paint prep and remover, and > "goo-be- > >>> gone". > >> > >> Check the archives; this has been a popular subject. > >> > >> > >> Guy Buchanan, Kitfox List Moderator > >> San Diego, CA > >> K-IV 1200 / 582-C / Warp / 100% done, thanks mostly to Bob Ducar. > > > > > > > >


    Message 8


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    Time: 11:03:41 AM PST US
    Subject: Kurts Struts
    From: "Don G" <donghe@one-eleven.net>
    Kurt, A month or so back you posted a note about your strut farings. I wonder if you can share more details about them? I will be creting or buying some strut farings this summer, and I am very interested in your results. -------- Don G. Central Illinois Kitfox IV Speedster Luscombe 8A http://www.geocities.com/dagger369th/my_firefly.htm Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=121817#121817


    Message 9


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    Time: 12:40:53 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: What are the differences between a Model IV 1050 and
    Model 1200 Kitfox ?
    From: "Torgeir Mortensen" <torgemor@online.no>
    Hi Kirk, my model II, has an I-beam in the wing spars. The builder of my Fox told me that the wings on this plane was stronger than "normal", but he could not remember the details involved. However, I thought that I-beam was present in all Kitfox wing spares. Well, learning something new every day.. Just go here to find the difference between the various models, this direct link go to the model IV difference description at Kitfox Aircraft LLC: http://www.kitfoxaircraft.com/Model%20IV.htm Hope this help. Torgeir. On Fri, 29 Jun 2007 03:06:23 +0200, kirk hull <kirkhull@kc.rr.com> wrote: > > I know the wings of a 1200 have an I beam in the wing spars that the 1050 > does not. Other then that I am not sure what else changed\ > > > _____ > > From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com > [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Marwynne > Kuhn > Sent: Thursday, June 28, 2007 7:28 PM > To: kitfox-list@matronics.com > Subject: Kitfox-List: What are the differences between a Model IV 1050 > and > Model 1200 Kitfox ? > > > Does anyone know what the differences between a Kitfox model IV 1050 and > model 1200? I have found some vague remarks, but nothing definite. > > > I have a Model 1050 and wonder what it would take to make it a 1200 > series ? > > > Any help or ideas would be appreciated. > -- Torgeir Kitfox Model II, 1993 Engine: Rotax 532 with B gearbox Propeller: IVO UL 366Q Tromsoe NORWAY. Weather in Tromso right now: http://met.no/troms/index.html City map of Tromso: http://www.avinor.no/English/Airports/Tromso_Airport/?module=Articles;action=ArticleFolder.publicOpenFolder;ID=1453 Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/


    Message 10


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    Time: 01:09:55 PM PST US
    From: "Dave G." <occom@ns.sympatico.ca>
    Subject: Re: What are the differences between a Model IV 1050 and
    Model 1200 Kitfox ? I was aware at one time that there was a reinforcing bar available that went from side to side between the strut mounts. I'm not sure of it's original purpose but it seemed like a good idea to me. if there is additional strength to be had, I'd like to have it. Dave Goddard- Mod IV 1050/582 do not archive


    Message 11


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    Time: 01:13:10 PM PST US
    From: "Dave G." <occom@ns.sympatico.ca>
    Subject: Re: Pre Cover and Finish Thoughts?
    I'd love to stomp all over this stupid EH thing. I was born in Canada, have lived here for 54 years and have probably met two people who say EH, at the end of a sentence. Lets not create anymore stereotypes. Dave Goddard- Mod IV 1050/582 do not archive ----- Original Message ----- From: "Noel Loveys" <noelloveys@yahoo.ca> Sent: Monday, July 02, 2007 2:23 PM Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Re: Pre Cover and Finish Thoughts? > > Next thing to a friket, Eh, Lynn. > > Sorry.... One day after Canada day and I still haven't got the Eh out :-) > > Noel > >> -----Original Message----- >> From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com >> [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of >> Lynn Matteson >> Sent: Sunday, July 01, 2007 10:51 PM >> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com >> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Re: Pre Cover and Finish Thoughts? >> >> >> >> >> Andy- >> >> I had another thought about applying the masking tapes...get the >> plastic fine-line tapes from your local auto paint store. When using >> them don't pull to stretch them, just pull them taut. Use them for >> where you are going to have a stripe, or wherever there is a change >> of color. Once the fine line tape is down, you can use regular >> masking tape (good quality) for applying the masking paper...NOT >> newspaper (it bleeds the color through sometimes, because it is >> porous)...to the fine line tape. And whenever one tape crosses >> another, make SURE you use your fingernail to *absolutely* make sure >> that the crossing tape is tight up to the underlying tape, or you'll >> get a "blow-under" of paint which you will see when the tape is >> removed. Even if you don't have one tape crossing another, this can >> happen even where the tape crosses your false ribs, or other hard >> edges, and even your finishing tapes. One of my wings shows some of >> this behavior, but I got better when I did the second wing. >> >> >> Lynn Matteson >> Grass Lake, Michigan >> Kitfox IV Speedster w/Jabiru 2200 >> flying w/350+ hrs >> >> >> On Jun 30, 2007, at 3:07 PM, Andy Fultz wrote: >> >> > <andynfultz@bellsouth.net> >> > >> > Thanks guys for the many comments and suggestions you have >> > offered. I THINK >> > I have done about all I can do in preparation for the covering >> > process. I >> > have one more wire to run and everything I can think of has at >> > least been >> > prefit and removed or left in place if it won't interfere with the >> > covering. >> > I do believe I have about run out of excuses to go ahead >> and get it >> > done. >> > If anything else comes to mind I'm still listening. Thanks again. >> > >> > Andy Fultz >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > >


    Message 12


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    Time: 01:42:00 PM PST US
    From: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt@sbcglobal.net>
    Subject: Re: What are the differences between a Model IV 1050 and
    Model 1200 Kitfox ? Dave, I once talked to a person close to Skystar before the bankruptcy and he told me that increasing the gross wt on the 1050 to 1200 amounted to the thicker walled lift struts and a rod - threaded both ends of the appropriate length, I can't recall the diameter - inserted in drilled holes in the lift strut fuselage attachment points running inside the carry through tube. Washers and nuts on both ends. The carry through on top at the spar attachment points are in compression. The 4130 rod at the lift strut attachment added strength in tension. This info came late in the game within a year or two of the end of business for Skystar. I have discussed this on several occasions with the source. Keep in mind that this is third hand info and maybe not complete. Lowell Fitt Cameron Park, CA Model IV-1200 R-912 UL Warp 1998 870 hrs. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dave G." <occom@ns.sympatico.ca> Sent: Monday, July 02, 2007 1:09 PM Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: What are the differences between a Model IV 1050 and Model 1200 Kitfox ? > > I was aware at one time that there was a reinforcing bar available that > went from side to side between the strut mounts. I'm not sure of it's > original purpose but it seemed like a good idea to me. if there is > additional strength to be had, I'd like to have it. > > Dave Goddard- Mod IV 1050/582 > do not archive > > >


    Message 13


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    Time: 02:04:02 PM PST US
    From: "Dave G." <occom@ns.sympatico.ca>
    Subject: Re: What are the differences between a Model IV 1050 and
    Model 1200 Kitfox ? Never heard of that one, the rod I saw photos of was fitted onto the lower tabs of the strut mounts that are not used except for floats. Not sure if it was ever a factory accessory. Dave Goddard- Mod IV 1050/582 do not archive ----- Original Message ----- From: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt@sbcglobal.net> Sent: Monday, July 02, 2007 5:39 PM Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: What are the differences between a Model IV 1050 and Model 1200 Kitfox ? > > Dave, > > I once talked to a person close to Skystar before the bankruptcy and he > told me that increasing the gross wt on the 1050 to 1200 amounted to the > thicker walled lift struts and a rod - threaded both ends of the > appropriate length, I can't recall the diameter - inserted in drilled > holes in the lift strut fuselage attachment points running inside the > carry through tube. Washers and nuts on both ends. The carry through on > top at the spar attachment points are in compression. The 4130 rod at the > lift strut attachment added strength in tension. This info came late in > the game within a year or two of the end of business for Skystar. I have > discussed this on several occasions with the source. > > Keep in mind that this is third hand info and maybe not complete. > > Lowell Fitt > Cameron Park, CA > Model IV-1200 R-912 UL Warp > 1998 870 hrs. > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Dave G." <occom@ns.sympatico.ca> > To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com> > Sent: Monday, July 02, 2007 1:09 PM > Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: What are the differences between a Model IV 1050 > and Model 1200 Kitfox ? > > >> >> I was aware at one time that there was a reinforcing bar available that >> went from side to side between the strut mounts. I'm not sure of it's >> original purpose but it seemed like a good idea to me. if there is >> additional strength to be had, I'd like to have it. >> >> Dave Goddard- Mod IV 1050/582 >> do not archive >> >> >> >> > > >


    Message 14


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    Time: 02:12:16 PM PST US
    From: "Noel Loveys" <noelloveys@yahoo.ca>
    Subject: Tail Wheel spring tension
    Rowan and Martins Laugh in...A great show. The idea of the springs on the tail wheel is partially to remove possible shocks from the rudder pedals while taxiing the plane. The major reason is without the springs when ever the wheel would bounce up it would increase the tension on the rudder horns ( as the spring flattens the distance form the rudder horns to the tail wheel horns increases) and without the springs eventually either the rudder horns or the wheel horns wild have to fracture. -----Original Message----- From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Clem Nichols Sent: Monday, July 02, 2007 12:06 AM Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Tail Wheel spring tension Paul: "Very interesting", to quote one of the characters on an old TV comedy program from years ago. Based on what you say my plane has the Maule tail wheel, and his has something else. I was merely quoting him when I said he had the Maule. (Pardon my ignorance.) His springs are the same on each side, and any force they exert is the result of being stretched rather than compressed. One end of the spring is attached to the arm on the tail wheel, and the other to a chain which is attached to the rudder arm. The setup is pretty "sloppy" as you put it, but because of the strength of the springs it will take some type of tool to stretch them enough that he can take a link out of the chains. In any event it certainly appears to me that they're too loose, although as I said in my initial posting I didn't detect any problem when taxiing the plane today. Clem Nichols ----- Original Message ----- From: Paul <mailto:ppeerenbo@charter.net> Sent: Sunday, July 01, 2007 6:23 PM Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Tail Wheel spring tension I also have the maule setup. They use compression springs, they are handed left and right. No tension to light tension ok, but not slopy. Too much lag. I put the homebuilder tail wheel on and love it compared to the hard solid maule wheel. 30 bucks plus you need new bearings its the way to go. Paul P Model IV Rotax 912 http://www.matronhref="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matro nics. com href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List">http://www.matron href "http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com


    Message 15


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    Time: 03:33:16 PM PST US
    From: "jdmcbean" <jdmcbean@kitfoxaircraft.com>
    Subject: What are the differences between a Model IV 1050 and
    Model 1200 Kitfox ? Again for the record... There are several changes that were completed from a Model IV-1050 to a Model IV-1200... You don't want to hear it but... bottom line.. One cannot increase the Model IV gross weight from 1050 to 1200. There was a letter that mentioned a procedure for operating a Model IV 1050 at a 1200 gross for FLOAT OPERATIONS only. Once the aircraft was put back on the gear the gross was 1050. That procedure was written by someone at Denny Aerocraft and was never officially adopted or to the best of our knowledge tested. The I-beam insert has always been a part of the wing assembly although the first Model 1's I believe used something different then the aluminum I-beam. At one time the spar was extruded with the I-beam. Fly Safe !! John & Debra McBean 208.337.5111 www.kitfoxaircraft.com "It's not how Fast... It's how Fun!" -----Original Message----- From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dave G. Sent: Monday, July 02, 2007 3:02 PM Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: What are the differences between a Model IV 1050 and Model 1200 Kitfox ? Never heard of that one, the rod I saw photos of was fitted onto the lower tabs of the strut mounts that are not used except for floats. Not sure if it was ever a factory accessory. Dave Goddard- Mod IV 1050/582 do not archive ----- Original Message ----- From: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt@sbcglobal.net> Sent: Monday, July 02, 2007 5:39 PM Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: What are the differences between a Model IV 1050 and Model 1200 Kitfox ? > > Dave, > > I once talked to a person close to Skystar before the bankruptcy and he > told me that increasing the gross wt on the 1050 to 1200 amounted to the > thicker walled lift struts and a rod - threaded both ends of the > appropriate length, I can't recall the diameter - inserted in drilled > holes in the lift strut fuselage attachment points running inside the > carry through tube. Washers and nuts on both ends. The carry through on > top at the spar attachment points are in compression. The 4130 rod at the > lift strut attachment added strength in tension. This info came late in > the game within a year or two of the end of business for Skystar. I have > discussed this on several occasions with the source. > > Keep in mind that this is third hand info and maybe not complete. > > Lowell Fitt > Cameron Park, CA > Model IV-1200 R-912 UL Warp > 1998 870 hrs. > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Dave G." <occom@ns.sympatico.ca> > To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com> > Sent: Monday, July 02, 2007 1:09 PM > Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: What are the differences between a Model IV 1050 > and Model 1200 Kitfox ? > > >> >> I was aware at one time that there was a reinforcing bar available that >> went from side to side between the strut mounts. I'm not sure of it's >> original purpose but it seemed like a good idea to me. if there is >> additional strength to be had, I'd like to have it. >> >> Dave Goddard- Mod IV 1050/582 >> do not archive >> >> >> >> > > 2:15 PM 2:15 PM


    Message 16


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    Time: 03:35:28 PM PST US
    From: kurt schrader <smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
    Subject: Re: Pre Cover and Finish Thoughts?
    --- kitfoxmike <customtrans@qwest.net> wrote: > I want to say that there is no reason for a fox to > get trapped in a cove. It will do a 90 degree > banking turn that will absolutely pull your eyes out > and turn you on a dime.......... > I wouldn't do this if you don't know the fox > though.... > -------- > kitfoxmike > model IV, 1200 > speedster > 912ul --------------------------------------------------- Just to add on to Mike's comment, it pays to get some aerobatic, gliding and IFR training under your belt. You don't have to qualify at them, but get enough training to be comfortable when exiting a bad situation. And you may learn your personal limitations better making you take the exit strategy sooner rather than too late. Once you know you are not too good at hammerhead turns or staying upright in a cloud, you know better not to go there. "A man's got to know his limitations." Kurt Schrader S-5/NSI turbo Florida and Panama Get the Yahoo! toolbar and be alerted to new email wherever you're surfing. http://new.toolbar.yahoo.com/toolbar/features/mail/index.php


    Message 17


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    Time: 03:42:54 PM PST US
    From: kurt schrader <smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
    Subject: Re: Pre Cover and Finish Thoughts?
    Another one for you Andy, If you have wires, pitot lines, etc that you have fastened to the inside of the tubes that will be against the fabric, don't use plastic ties to hold the wires. They rub the fabric and the plastic gets brittle over time and fails. Instead use stitching line, or pinked tape wrapped and glued around the tube. I tried all 3 and like the tape wrap better for saving the fabric touching it. They just glue together and don't rub at all. Kurt Schrader S-5/NSI turbo Florida and Panama Got a little couch potato? Check out fun summer activities for kids. http://search.yahoo.com/search?fr=oni_on_mail&p=summer+activities+for+kids&cs=bz


    Message 18


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    Time: 04:00:46 PM PST US
    From: kurt schrader <smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
    Subject: Flaperons
    --- clemwehner <clemwehner@sbcglobal.net> wrote: > It would be interesting to figure out what causes > the film to stick to the flaperons...... ---------------------------------------------------- I checked mine a few years after buying my kit and the film was still easily removed. Later I stored them horizontally in the attic of my garage and the film seemed to bake on. I think if you store them on edge for circulation and in cooler places, the film will not be so hard to remove. Just one guess, Kurt Schrader S-5/NSI turbo Florida and Panama http://smallbusiness.yahoo.com/webhosting


    Message 19


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    Time: 04:41:31 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Flaperons
    From: "Tom Jones" <nahsikhs@elltel.net>
    > It would be interesting to figure out what causes the film to stick to > the flaperons, so maybe we could minimize the problem in the future. I stored my flaperons for six years horizontaly up in the rafters of my shop where the temperature was often over 100 F in the summer and sometimes minus 20 to minus 30 in the winter. It was a dry climate in the high desert of central oregon. The plastic film was hard and dry and baked on and came off in 1/4 inch pieces. It took several days of painstaking work to get it off. If I had a set or even one flaperon with that dreaded plastic film on them I would go out right now and see if it would peel off. If it would I would take it off right now. No doubt about it. -------- Tom Jones Classic IV, Phase one 503 Rotax, 72 inch Two blade Warp Ellensburg, WA Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=121881#121881


    Message 20


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    Time: 04:44:44 PM PST US
    From: Dan Billingsley <dan@azshowersolutions.com>
    Subject: Utah Fly-In Lunch
    Greetings, A short notice it is, however, John Oakley and I are planning to meet at the Ogden Airport terminal tomorrow, July 3rd, at 1100 hrs for lunch. I'm up here from Mesa, AZ and would like to meet any and all who can make it. I understand the Ogden Terminal has a good place to eat. John indicated there are about 5 guys in the area building, flying, dreaming... and has never met all of you. Just an open invitation to make that excuse to fly and come swap lies and eat a burger. Dan Billingsley Mesa, AZ Building KF-IV 912 S 314DW


    Message 21


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    Time: 05:01:29 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Utah Fly-In Lunch
    From: "darinh" <gerns25@netscape.net>
    Dan & John, I'll try to make it... Darin DO NOT ARCHIVE -------- Darin Hawkes Series 7 (under Construction) 914 Turbo Ogden, Utah Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=121884#121884


    Message 22


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    Time: 05:51:11 PM PST US
    From: "fox5flyer" <fox5flyer@idealwifi.net>
    Subject: differences between a Model IV 1050 and Model 1200 Kitfox
    ? My old model II 950gw from Denny Aerocraft had the I-beams supplied with the kit. Deke ----- Original Message ----- From: "Torgeir Mortensen" <torgemor@online.no> Sent: Monday, July 02, 2007 2:40 PM Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: What are the differences between a Model IV 1050 and Model 1200 Kitfox ? <torgemor@online.no> > > Hi Kirk, > > my model II, has an I-beam in the wing spars. The builder of my Fox told > me that the wings on this plane was stronger than "normal", but he could > not remember the details involved. > > However, I thought that I-beam was present in all Kitfox wing spares. > Well, learning something new every day.. > > Just go here to find the difference between the various models, this > direct link go to the model IV difference description at Kitfox Aircraft > LLC: > > http://www.kitfoxaircraft.com/Model%20IV.htm > > Hope this help. > > Torgeir. > > > On Fri, 29 Jun 2007 03:06:23 +0200, kirk hull <kirkhull@kc.rr.com> wrote: > > > > > I know the wings of a 1200 have an I beam in the wing spars that the 1050 > > does not. Other then that I am not sure what else changed\ > > > > > > _____ > > > > From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com > > [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Marwynne > > Kuhn > > Sent: Thursday, June 28, 2007 7:28 PM > > To: kitfox-list@matronics.com > > Subject: Kitfox-List: What are the differences between a Model IV 1050 > > and > > Model 1200 Kitfox ? > > > > > > Does anyone know what the differences between a Kitfox model IV 1050 and > > model 1200? I have found some vague remarks, but nothing definite. > > > > > > I have a Model 1050 and wonder what it would take to make it a 1200 > > series ? > > > > > > Any help or ideas would be appreciated. > > > > > -- > Torgeir > > Kitfox Model II, 1993 > Engine: Rotax 532 with B gearbox > Propeller: IVO UL 366Q > > Tromsoe > NORWAY. > > Weather in Tromso right now: > http://met.no/troms/index.html > > City map of Tromso: > > http://www.avinor.no/English/Airports/Tromso_Airport/?module=Articles;action=ArticleFolder.publicOpenFolder;ID=1453 > > Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/ > >


    Message 23


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    Time: 06:59:49 PM PST US
    From: <l.morris@tx.rr.com>
    Subject: Flaperons
    My flaperons were stored under the very same conditions,vertical in the garage,north Texas fairly low humidity,90-100 summer (door open) and 40's in the winter for 13 years and film is hard ,bake on and will only come off in 1/4" pieces. Leon Morris/Classic4/94/50%/Flower Mound,TX ' ---- clemwehner <clemwehner@sbcglobal.net> wrote: > > It would be interesting to figure out what causes the film to stick to > the flaperons, so maybe we could minimize the problem in the future. > Could it be storage conditions, humidity, temperature, or is it the > material used? > > My flaperons were stored hanging on the wall in my garage in Oklahoma > from 1991 until this winter (2007). 16 years of storage and I peeled the > covering right off in one pull. Each side of the flaperon covering came > off in a big sheet with no tendency to stick or tear. Our humidity > averages about 50% in the garage and the temps in the garage run from > about 90 in the summer to 45 in the winter. > > It might be interesting to hear about the storage conditions from some > who have had a lot of problems removing the covering. > > > Clem > KFIV,912, #1461 > Lawton, OK > > > > On Jun 30, 2007, at 11:36 PM, Guy Buchanan wrote: > > > > > At 06:40 AM 6/30/2007, you wrote: > >> Also,does anyone have a good way to remove the film from the > >> flaperons? I have tried WD 40,paint prep and remover, and "goo-be- > >> gone". > > > > Check the archives; this has been a popular subject. > > > > > > Guy Buchanan, Kitfox List Moderator > > > > > >


    Message 24


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    Time: 07:00:45 PM PST US
    From: "Paul" <ppeerenbo@charter.net>
    Subject: Re: Tail Wheel spring tension
    I replaced the bearings number HEIM #RF82212PP The bearing that come with the wheel have an inside diameter of 5/8 maule is 1/2" diameter. These bearings look to be factory bushed but are sealed bearings the bearings that come with the wheel are not sealed. Paul P Model IV Rotax 912 N.L. ,WI. ----- Original Message ----- From: Andy Fultz To: kitfox-list@matronics.com Sent: Sunday, July 01, 2007 7:06 PM Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Tail Wheel spring tension Paul, Did you make your new bushings or were you able to find some "off the shelf" bushings? I've heard enough good things about replacing the hard maule wheel with the "Homebuilders Special" repalcement that I plan to do that before I fly mine. Thanks Andy Fultz -----Original Message----- From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Paul Sent: Sunday, July 01, 2007 6:24 PM To: kitfox-list@matronics.com Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Tail Wheel spring tension I also have the maule setup. They use compression springs, they are handed left and right. No tension to light tension ok, but not slopy. Too much lag. I put the homebuilder tail wheel on and love it compared to the hard solid maule wheel. 30 bucks plus you need new bearings its the way to go. Paul P Model IV Rotax 912 N.L. , Wisconsin ----- Original Message ----- From: Clem Nichols To: kitfox-list@matronics.com Sent: Sunday, July 01, 2007 6:07 PM Subject: Kitfox-List: Tail Wheel spring tension A friend of mine is ready to begin ground-testing of a Model IV 1050 he's recently completed. His plane has a Maule tail-wheel, and the way it's set up there is no tension on the springs. I don't know what type of tail wheel mine has, but it's obviously different, and the springs are taut. He was asking me if his should be tightened, and I couldn't answer him because I don't know. I taxied his plane some today the way it's set up, and didn't notice any problem at either slow or fairly high speed (enough to get the tail wheel up). I told him I would pose his question to the list, and pass along your advice. Thanks. Clem Nichols Model IV 1200 Subaru EA-81 Munfordville, Ky. http://www.matronhref="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matro nics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List">http://www.matron href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com


    Message 25


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    Time: 07:21:13 PM PST US
    From: "Dee Young" <henrysfork1@msn.com>
    Subject: Flaperons film removal
    My Model II was very hard to remove the film also, just little tiny pieces at a time. I tried using lacquer thinner saturated in a rage. Lay it on the flap and after just a short time it comes lose in a large sheet. Dee Young Model II Grounded with ignition trouble Do Not Archive ----- Original Message ----- From: l.morris@tx.rr.com<mailto:l.morris@tx.rr.com> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com<mailto:kitfox-list@matronics.com> Sent: Monday, July 02, 2007 7:55 PM Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Flaperons <l.morris@tx.rr.com<mailto:l.morris@tx.rr.com>> My flaperons were stored under the very same conditions,vertical in the garage,north Texas fairly low humidity,90-100 summer (door open) and 40's in the winter for 13 years and film is hard ,bake on and will only come off in 1/4" pieces. Leon Morris/Classic4/94/50%/Flower Mound,TX ' ---- clemwehner <clemwehner@sbcglobal.net<mailto:clemwehner@sbcglobal.net>> wrote: <clemwehner@sbcglobal.net<mailto:clemwehner@sbcglobal.net>> > > It would be interesting to figure out what causes the film to stick to > the flaperons, so maybe we could minimize the problem in the future. > Could it be storage conditions, humidity, temperature, or is it the > material used? > > My flaperons were stored hanging on the wall in my garage in Oklahoma > from 1991 until this winter (2007). 16 years of storage and I peeled the > covering right off in one pull. Each side of the flaperon covering came > off in a big sheet with no tendency to stick or tear. Our humidity > averages about 50% in the garage and the temps in the garage run from > about 90 in the summer to 45 in the winter. > > It might be interesting to hear about the storage conditions from some > who have had a lot of problems removing the covering. > > > Clem > KFIV,912, #1461 > Lawton, OK > > > > On Jun 30, 2007, at 11:36 PM, Guy Buchanan wrote: > <bnn@nethere.com<mailto:bnn@nethere.com>> > > > > At 06:40 AM 6/30/2007, you wrote: > >> Also,does anyone have a good way to remove the film from the > >> flaperons? I have tried WD 40,paint prep and remover, and "goo-be- > >> gone". > > > > Check the archives; this has been a popular subject. > > > > > > Guy Buchanan, Kitfox List Moderator > > > > > > http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List<http://www.matronics.com/N avigator?Kitfox-List>


    Message 26


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    Time: 08:30:43 PM PST US
    From: "mic thiessen" <wannaflyfox4@hotmail.com>
    Subject: Re: Arlington 2007
    Sounds like a really good Idea...will see you there at noon on saturday Mic Thiessen Fox IV Speedster C-FOXX Subaru EA81 Canada do not archive >From: "Don McIntosh" <don@contractorsnorthwest.com> >To: kitfox-list@matronics.com >Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: Arlington 2007 >Date: Mon, 2 Jul 2007 08:29:30 -0700 > ><don@contractorsnorthwest.com> > >I will be driving to the fly-in on Friday with a group of the Spokane EAA >Chapter 79. We have 4 adjacent campsites reserved somewhere so I can be >located that way. I look forward to meeting some of you there. It sounds >like we should have a fair representation attending the airshow. Maybe we >should arrange a time and place to all get together - at the Kitfox display >booth perhaps, maybe noon Saturday? > >-------- >Don McIntosh >Series 7 under construction >912S (probably) > > >Read this topic online here: > >http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=121783#121783 > > _________________________________________________________________ See Fireworks On Live Image Search http://search.live.com/images/results.aspx?q=Fireworks&mkt=en-ca&FORM=SERNEP




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