Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 08:32 AM - Fixed or removalble wing tips? (SUE MICHAELS)
2. 09:37 AM - Re: Fixed or removalble wing tips? (John W. Hart)
3. 10:02 AM - Re: Fixed or removalble wing tips? (Michel Verheughe)
4. 10:11 AM - Re: Fixed or removalble wing tips? (Lowell Fitt)
5. 10:34 AM - Kingfox tires (Lowell Fitt)
6. 10:54 AM - Re: Fixed or removalble wing tips? (John W. Hart)
7. 11:53 AM - Re: Kingfox tires (John W. Hart)
8. 12:08 PM - Re: Fixed or removalble wing tips? (Noel Loveys)
9. 05:20 PM - Re: Kingfox tires (Bill Malpass)
10. 05:53 PM - Re: Kingfox tires (Noel Loveys)
11. 07:14 PM - Re: Oxygen...when & why (Andy Fultz)
12. 07:53 PM - Re: Kingfox tires (Clint Bazzill)
13. 08:09 PM - Fox V wings on a IV?? (Keithc)
Message 1
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Subject: | Fixed or removalble wing tips? |
Yes a trivial question. Is their a good reason to but all that hardware at the
end of the wing to make them with removable tips.
Message 2
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Subject: | Fixed or removalble wing tips? |
In my opinion, yes. If any repair needs to be done to the position light
mounting, the end of the wing, or to inspect the interior of the wing, the
removable tips make it a lot easier than cutting the material to accomplish
that task. Removing mice and bird nests from the wing interior is really
difficult if the tips are not removable. If, for example, there are no
position lights and a person wants to install them after the aircraft is
built, removable tips make it easier to run the wires and mount the lights.
If position lights are installed during construction, and an owner wishes to
install strobes on the wingtips at a later time, it's a lot easier with
removable tips. In my opinion, installing removable wingtips is a whole lot
like painting a floor. Just another way to avoid painting yourself in to a
corner.
John Hart
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of SUE MICHAELS
Sent: Tuesday, August 07, 2007 10:31 AM
To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
Subject: Kitfox-List: Fixed or removalble wing tips?
Yes a trivial question. Is their a good reason to but all that hardware at
the end of the wing to make them with removable tips.
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: Fixed or removalble wing tips? |
On Aug 7, 2007, at 6:36 PM, John W. Hart wrote:
> it's a lot easier with removable tips.
Good point, John. Now, my model 3 has drooping winglets attached by
pop-rivets. How do I make them removable? With "rivnuts?" Incidentally,
it was when reading the "windshield installation" thread that I learnt
about these things. Never heard of it before. I am not sure where to
get them over here but I see that Aircraft Spruce has them.
Cheers,
Michel Verheughe
Norway
Kitfox 3 - Jabiru 2200
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: Fixed or removalble wing tips? |
Sue,
I made mine permanent. I did, however make what I call "doors" as I made
plastic lenses that allow for internal nav lights with the strobe tube
mounted like on the early Glasair. I do remove the doors each annual and it
does allow for a limited amount of access to the wiring and for inspection
of that part of the wing structure. It is interesting that with the access
for inspection, I have yet to find anything that I have been concerned with.
The structure looks exactly as it was assembled back in 1994 down to the
color of the wood and the integrety of the epoxy varnish. My guess is that
the airplane has spend about 80 overnights outdoors with some rain and a
couple of hard freezes since built during cross country flights, the rest in
a hangar.
I guess my advice would be to project your airplane's likely exposure level
and your desire to check out the wing tip area from time to time.
Lowell Fitt
Cameron Park, CA
Model IV-1200 R-912 UL Warp
1998 880 hrs.
----- Original Message -----
From: "SUE MICHAELS" <michaega@verizon.net>
Sent: Tuesday, August 07, 2007 8:31 AM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Fixed or removalble wing tips?
> Yes a trivial question. Is their a good reason to but all that hardware at
> the end of the wing to make them with removable tips.
Message 5
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I bought a pair of the Nankang tires several years ago from a vendor other
than Mippi and had some issues with the bead leaking. I used the green
"Slime" for tubeless tires with good success. I used the version for
tubeless tires because I had heard that Slime was corrosive for alloy wheels
and assumed that the tubeless variety was OK. Wrong. when it came time to
replace the tires, there were pits all over the inner surface of the rims.
I was talking to a guy at an ATV place about the problem and he agreed that
Slime will damage alloy rims and commented that it was to be used only in
emergencies. I asked him what he used to seal the bead in difficult cases
and he didn't want to say, but I got him to admit that he uses RTV. I
didn't like that idea as I could just see adding to the difficulty of
breaking the bead by gluing the tires to the rims. In frustration, I did it
though as I got tired if having to top up the air every three days. The
leak would be very slow at first, but as the pressure gradually dropped, it
would proceed to a rush and then in a matter of a couple of hours it would
be from soft to dead flat. I applied it only to the outside bead as that
was the only place I could detect a leak by soaping.
All was great until I discovered that the tires still would go flat, but now
it would take a week or more to see the softening. I dealt with that with
the comeressed air tank then decided to finally add the RTV to the inside
bead - I only found that leak by removing the wheel and very carefully
soaping the whole tire. That took care of that by soap test, but breaking
the bead had somehow disturbed the cured RTV on the oustside, and now that
side leaked again - can of worms? Not really, rather than making bead
breakin harder, the RTV made breaking the bead much easier and after
cleaning up both sides, I wiped a thin layer of RTV with a gloved finger in
both bead areas and presto - no leaks for the first time in lots of years.
If you want to try this, use the RTV recommended by the factory for the fuel
tank installation. Some RTVs are corrosive to aluminum alloys.
Lowell Fitt
Cameron Park, CA
Model IV-1200 R-912 UL Warp
1998 880 hrs.
Message 6
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Subject: | Fixed or removalble wing tips? |
Well, I don't know exactly what's in there along the end rib on your
aircraft, but I'd think a piece of aluminum could be formed to fit against
the rib, then use adhesive and rivets to permanently attach it, then put
rivnuts through the aluminum, and screws thru the wingtip into the rivnuts
to hold it on.
John Hart
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Michel
Verheughe
Sent: Tuesday, August 07, 2007 12:02 PM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Fixed or removalble wing tips?
On Aug 7, 2007, at 6:36 PM, John W. Hart wrote:
> it's a lot easier with removable tips.
Good point, John. Now, my model 3 has drooping winglets attached by
pop-rivets. How do I make them removable? With "rivnuts?" Incidentally,
it was when reading the "windshield installation" thread that I learnt
about these things. Never heard of it before. I am not sure where to
get them over here but I see that Aircraft Spruce has them.
Cheers,
Michel Verheughe
Norway
Kitfox 3 - Jabiru 2200
Message 7
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|
An alternative to try is liquid detergent such as Ivory, or Palmolive, or
any brand you prefer. I've used it successfully on a variety of small
tubeless tires and car tires over the years. The stuff makes it easier to
seat the beads, dries and adds to the sealing effect, and don't leave any
residue to speak of, and what residue there is cleans up with water. I've
never noticed any corrosion or pitting of wheels when I've used it in the
past. Just use it straight from the bottle. Rub a good coat on with your
hand or use a paint brush to brush it on the tire bead, mount and inflate
the tire to maximum pressure to seat the bead, then reduce the pressure to
operational pressure.
John Hart
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Lowell Fitt
Sent: Tuesday, August 07, 2007 12:34 PM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Kingfox tires
I bought a pair of the Nankang tires several years ago from a vendor other
than Mippi and had some issues with the bead leaking. I used the green
"Slime" for tubeless tires with good success. I used the version for
tubeless tires because I had heard that Slime was corrosive for alloy wheels
and assumed that the tubeless variety was OK. Wrong. when it came time to
replace the tires, there were pits all over the inner surface of the rims.
I was talking to a guy at an ATV place about the problem and he agreed that
Slime will damage alloy rims and commented that it was to be used only in
emergencies. I asked him what he used to seal the bead in difficult cases
and he didn't want to say, but I got him to admit that he uses RTV. I
didn't like that idea as I could just see adding to the difficulty of
breaking the bead by gluing the tires to the rims. In frustration, I did it
though as I got tired if having to top up the air every three days. The
leak would be very slow at first, but as the pressure gradually dropped, it
would proceed to a rush and then in a matter of a couple of hours it would
be from soft to dead flat. I applied it only to the outside bead as that
was the only place I could detect a leak by soaping.
All was great until I discovered that the tires still would go flat, but now
it would take a week or more to see the softening. I dealt with that with
the comeressed air tank then decided to finally add the RTV to the inside
bead - I only found that leak by removing the wheel and very carefully
soaping the whole tire. That took care of that by soap test, but breaking
the bead had somehow disturbed the cured RTV on the oustside, and now that
side leaked again - can of worms? Not really, rather than making bead
breakin harder, the RTV made breaking the bead much easier and after
cleaning up both sides, I wiped a thin layer of RTV with a gloved finger in
both bead areas and presto - no leaks for the first time in lots of years.
If you want to try this, use the RTV recommended by the factory for the fuel
tank installation. Some RTVs are corrosive to aluminum alloys.
Lowell Fitt
Cameron Park, CA
Model IV-1200 R-912 UL Warp
1998 880 hrs.
Message 8
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Subject: | Fixed or removalble wing tips? |
Any aviation supply dep0ot should have rivnuts in several different
sizes.
They are not as strong as bucked rivets but probably stronger than
aluminium
pop rivets. Don't forget to order an installation tool too.
Noel Loveys, RPP, AME intern
Campbellton, Newfoundland,
Canada
Kitfox Mod III-A, 582, B box, Ivo IFA
Aerocet 1100s
<mailto:noelloveys@yahoo.ca> noelloveys@yahoo.ca
Do not archive
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> Michel Verheughe
> Sent: Tuesday, August 07, 2007 2:32 PM
> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Fixed or removalble wing tips?
>
>
>
> On Aug 7, 2007, at 6:36 PM, John W. Hart wrote:
> > it's a lot easier with removable tips.
>
> Good point, John. Now, my model 3 has drooping winglets attached by
> pop-rivets. How do I make them removable? With "rivnuts?"
> Incidentally,
> it was when reading the "windshield installation" thread that
> I learnt
> about these things. Never heard of it before. I am not sure where to
> get them over here but I see that Aircraft Spruce has them.
>
> Cheers,
> Michel Verheughe
> Norway
> Kitfox 3 - Jabiru 2200
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 9
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Subject: | Re: Kingfox tires |
What is the problem with just putting tubes in the tires.?
I once went into a swerve that was enough to break the seal, tire went flat,
and I had to rebuild my wheel pant.
I then put in tubes and now, no fear of that sort of thing again.
Bill Kitfox model III N793RK
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt@sbcglobal.net>
Sent: Tuesday, August 07, 2007 1:33 PM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Kingfox tires
>
> I bought a pair of the Nankang tires several years ago from a vendor other
> than Mippi and had some issues with the bead leaking. I used the green
> "Slime" for tubeless tires with good success. I used the version for
> tubeless tires because I had heard that Slime was corrosive for alloy
> wheels and assumed that the tubeless variety was OK. Wrong. when it came
> time to replace the tires, there were pits all over the inner surface of
> the rims.
>
> I was talking to a guy at an ATV place about the problem and he agreed
> that Slime will damage alloy rims and commented that it was to be used
> only in emergencies. I asked him what he used to seal the bead in
> difficult cases and he didn't want to say, but I got him to admit that he
> uses RTV. I didn't like that idea as I could just see adding to the
> difficulty of breaking the bead by gluing the tires to the rims. In
> frustration, I did it though as I got tired if having to top up the air
> every three days. The leak would be very slow at first, but as the
> pressure gradually dropped, it would proceed to a rush and then in a
> matter of a couple of hours it would be from soft to dead flat. I applied
> it only to the outside bead as that was the only place I could detect a
> leak by soaping.
>
> All was great until I discovered that the tires still would go flat, but
> now it would take a week or more to see the softening. I dealt with that
> with the comeressed air tank then decided to finally add the RTV to the
> inside bead - I only found that leak by removing the wheel and very
> carefully soaping the whole tire. That took care of that by soap test,
> but breaking the bead had somehow disturbed the cured RTV on the oustside,
> and now that side leaked again - can of worms? Not really, rather than
> making bead breakin harder, the RTV made breaking the bead much easier and
> after cleaning up both sides, I wiped a thin layer of RTV with a gloved
> finger in both bead areas and presto - no leaks for the first time in lots
> of years.
>
> If you want to try this, use the RTV recommended by the factory for the
> fuel tank installation. Some RTVs are corrosive to aluminum alloys.
>
> Lowell Fitt
> Cameron Park, CA
> Model IV-1200 R-912 UL Warp
> 1998 880 hrs.
>
>
>
Message 10
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|
With low pressure tires there isn't as much pressure holding the tire in
place on the rim. If you have a fast solid touchdown it is possible to
rotate the tire in the rim. If you have a tube in there you will cause the
rim to cut off the air valve. Same result only possibly with both mains
flat.
Just ask some of the guys using ATVs with low pressure tires... I'll bet
they will advise against ever using a tube.
Noel Loveys, RPP, AME intern
Campbellton, Newfoundland,
Canada
Kitfox Mod III-A, 582, B box, Ivo IFA
Aerocet 1100s
<mailto:noelloveys@yahoo.ca> noelloveys@yahoo.ca
Do not archive
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> Bill Malpass
> Sent: Tuesday, August 07, 2007 9:51 PM
> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Kingfox tires
>
>
> <malpass-architect@comcast.net>
>
> What is the problem with just putting tubes in the tires.?
>
> I once went into a swerve that was enough to break the seal,
> tire went flat,
> and I had to rebuild my wheel pant.
> I then put in tubes and now, no fear of that sort of thing again.
>
> Bill Kitfox model III N793RK
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt@sbcglobal.net>
> To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, August 07, 2007 1:33 PM
> Subject: Kitfox-List: Kingfox tires
>
>
> <lcfitt@sbcglobal.net>
> >
> > I bought a pair of the Nankang tires several years ago from
> a vendor other
> > than Mippi and had some issues with the bead leaking. I
> used the green
> > "Slime" for tubeless tires with good success. I used the
> version for
> > tubeless tires because I had heard that Slime was corrosive
> for alloy
> > wheels and assumed that the tubeless variety was OK.
> Wrong. when it came
> > time to replace the tires, there were pits all over the
> inner surface of
> > the rims.
> >
> > I was talking to a guy at an ATV place about the problem
> and he agreed
> > that Slime will damage alloy rims and commented that it was
> to be used
> > only in emergencies. I asked him what he used to seal the bead in
> > difficult cases and he didn't want to say, but I got him to
> admit that he
> > uses RTV. I didn't like that idea as I could just see
> adding to the
> > difficulty of breaking the bead by gluing the tires to the
> rims. In
> > frustration, I did it though as I got tired if having to
> top up the air
> > every three days. The leak would be very slow at first, but as the
> > pressure gradually dropped, it would proceed to a rush and
> then in a
> > matter of a couple of hours it would be from soft to dead
> flat. I applied
> > it only to the outside bead as that was the only place I
> could detect a
> > leak by soaping.
> >
> > All was great until I discovered that the tires still would
> go flat, but
> > now it would take a week or more to see the softening. I
> dealt with that
> > with the comeressed air tank then decided to finally add
> the RTV to the
> > inside bead - I only found that leak by removing the wheel and very
> > carefully soaping the whole tire. That took care of that
> by soap test,
> > but breaking the bead had somehow disturbed the cured RTV
> on the oustside,
> > and now that side leaked again - can of worms? Not really,
> rather than
> > making bead breakin harder, the RTV made breaking the bead
> much easier and
> > after cleaning up both sides, I wiped a thin layer of RTV
> with a gloved
> > finger in both bead areas and presto - no leaks for the
> first time in lots
> > of years.
> >
> > If you want to try this, use the RTV recommended by the
> factory for the
> > fuel tank installation. Some RTVs are corrosive to aluminum alloys.
> >
> > Lowell Fitt
> > Cameron Park, CA
> > Model IV-1200 R-912 UL Warp
> > 1998 880 hrs.
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
Message 11
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|
Subject: | Oxygen...when & why |
I've got a buddy that flies a lot of long x-country at 7500-12500 (now that
he has oxygen). He says it's really amazing how much less fatigued he is
when he lands. He now uses oxygen on all x-country flights above 5500 if
he's going to be there more than two hours and any flights above 7500.
Andy F.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dan Billingsley
Sent: Sunday, August 05, 2007 7:37 PM
To: kitfox-list
Subject: Kitfox-List: Oxygen...when & why
I monitor an RV site and a discussion about using O2 came up. I thought
this reply was worth passing along.
Dan B. Mesa, AZ
KF-IV , 912s,
Mike and all,
It's been a while since I studied this in school but I'll give it a try:
The air we breathe is composed of oxygen, nitrogen and other gases. The
total weight of these gases equals the atmosheric pressure which of
course decreases with altitude. The one which we are concerned with is
the partial pressure of oxygen. When we take a breath at sea level the
oxygen pressure is greater than the oxygen pressure in the capillary
beds of the lung. So oxygen is pushed across the membranes of the air
sacs of the lungs into the capillary beds and under normal circumstances
the oximetry reading is about 98%. Then as altitude increases the
partial pressure of oxygen decreases, therefore it's ability to cross
the membranes decreases as well and the oximetry reading decreases.
Normal air has 21% oxygen. By breathing nearly 100% oxygen helps us to
keep our oximetry reading closer to the normal range. Your ability to
absorb oxygen is dependent on your general health, age, smoking and
other factors.
Last year my wife and I attended a seminar at Oshkosh given by a doctor
on the benefits of using oxygen. He recommends using oxygen, as I
recall, over the age of 55 at altitudes of 8000' and higher. And using
oxygen at any altitude at night to improve vision.
Hope this helps. Any questions would require some research.
Jim Paynter
RV-9A, KCCB
Cardiac Sonographer
San Antonio Community Hospital, Upland
Message 12
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|
If you rotate the rim from a hard landing, I wouldn't worry about the rim
cutting the valve stem, you just lost all your air. My 2 cents worth.
Clint
From: "Noel Loveys" <noelloveys@yahoo.ca>
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Kingfox tires
With low pressure tires there isn't as much pressure holding the tire in
place on the rim. If you have a fast solid touchdown it is possible to
rotate the tire in the rim. If you have a tube in there you will cause the
rim to cut off the air valve. Same result only possibly with both mains
flat.
Just ask some of the guys using ATVs with low pressure tires... I'll bet
they will advise against ever using a tube.
Noel Loveys, RPP, AME intern
Campbellton, Newfoundland,
Canada
Kitfox Mod III-A, 582, B box, Ivo IFA
Aerocet 1100s
<mailto:noelloveys@yahoo.ca> noelloveys@yahoo.ca
Do not archive
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> Bill Malpass
> Sent: Tuesday, August 07, 2007 9:51 PM
> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Kingfox tires
>
>
> <malpass-architect@comcast.net>
>
> What is the problem with just putting tubes in the tires.?
>
> I once went into a swerve that was enough to break the seal,
> tire went flat,
> and I had to rebuild my wheel pant.
> I then put in tubes and now, no fear of that sort of thing again.
>
> Bill Kitfox model III N793RK
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt@sbcglobal.net>
> To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, August 07, 2007 1:33 PM
> Subject: Kitfox-List: Kingfox tires
>
>
> <lcfitt@sbcglobal.net>
> >
> > I bought a pair of the Nankang tires several years ago from
> a vendor other
> > than Mippi and had some issues with the bead leaking. I
> used the green
> > "Slime" for tubeless tires with good success. I used the
> version for
> > tubeless tires because I had heard that Slime was corrosive
> for alloy
> > wheels and assumed that the tubeless variety was OK.
> Wrong. when it came
> > time to replace the tires, there were pits all over the
> inner surface of
> > the rims.
> >
> > I was talking to a guy at an ATV place about the problem
> and he agreed
> > that Slime will damage alloy rims and commented that it was
> to be used
> > only in emergencies. I asked him what he used to seal the bead in
> > difficult cases and he didn't want to say, but I got him to
> admit that he
> > uses RTV. I didn't like that idea as I could just see
> adding to the
> > difficulty of breaking the bead by gluing the tires to the
> rims. In
> > frustration, I did it though as I got tired if having to
> top up the air
> > every three days. The leak would be very slow at first, but as the
> > pressure gradually dropped, it would proceed to a rush and
> then in a
> > matter of a couple of hours it would be from soft to dead
> flat. I applied
> > it only to the outside bead as that was the only place I
> could detect a
> > leak by soaping.
> >
> > All was great until I discovered that the tires still would
> go flat, but
> > now it would take a week or more to see the softening. I
> dealt with that
> > with the comeressed air tank then decided to finally add
> the RTV to the
> > inside bead - I only found that leak by removing the wheel and very
> > carefully soaping the whole tire. That took care of that
> by soap test,
> > but breaking the bead had somehow disturbed the cured RTV
> on the oustside,
> > and now that side leaked again - can of worms? Not really,
> rather than
> > making bead breakin harder, the RTV made breaking the bead
> much easier and
> > after cleaning up both sides, I wiped a thin layer of RTV
> with a gloved
> > finger in both bead areas and presto - no leaks for the
> first time in lots
> > of years.
> >
> > If you want to try this, use the RTV recommended by the
> factory for the
> > fuel tank installation. Some RTVs are corrosive to aluminum alloys.
> >
> > Lowell Fitt
> > Cameron Park, CA
> > Model IV-1200 R-912 UL Warp
> > 1998 880 hrs.
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Subject: | Fox V wings on a IV?? |
Can any one tell me if a series 5 wing set will fit a series 4 (1200). Is there
any pros and cons to using this combination?
thanks
Keith
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=128044#128044
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