Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 09:03 AM - Re: Kingfox tires (Michael Gibbs)
2. 09:55 AM - Fuel Line Tubing (DanM)
3. 10:21 AM - Re: Fuel Line Tubing (kitfoxmike)
4. 10:54 AM - Re: New LSA Continental engine (Andy Fultz)
5. 11:16 AM - Re: Fuel Line Tubing (fox5flyer)
6. 11:52 AM - Re: New LSA Continental engine (jdmcbean)
7. 02:09 PM - Re: Fuel Line Tubing (jimlc@att.net)
8. 03:53 PM - Re: Re: Kingfox tires (Noel Loveys)
9. 04:25 PM - Re: Rivnut question (Noel Loveys)
10. 04:53 PM - Re: Re: Kingfox tires (Noel Loveys)
11. 05:47 PM - 582 engine adjustments (Jeffrey Dill)
12. 06:56 PM - Re: Fuel Line Tubing (kentk)
13. 09:12 PM - New and seeking info !! (Keithc)
14. 09:28 PM - Re: New and seeking info !! (john oakley)
15. 09:39 PM - Re: New and seeking info !! (Keithc)
16. 10:16 PM - Re: Re: New and seeking info !! (john oakley)
17. 10:29 PM - Re: Re: New and seeking info !! (hrob)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Kingfox tires |
Lowell sez:
>I have read reports on the kitfox list (in the days of old) and the
>lancair list of valve stems shearing. This is why I have avoided
>tubes.
My 1978 Piper Turbo Arrow III has inner tubes in all of her
tires--came that way from the factory, I believe. We've never had a
problem with valve stems or loss of air.
Mike G.
List Mom
Model IV-1200, N728KF
Phoenix, AZ
Message 2
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| Subject: | Fuel Line Tubing |
I'm getting ready to install the fuel lines from the wing tanks to the header tank.
My kit came with the rubber tubing that is not supposed to be use so I need
a replacement. I saw some clear vinyl tubing at the hardware store and thought
it maybe suitable. Any opinions out there? Thanks in advance
--------
Dan Mc Intyre
Kitfox Model IV, Jab 2200
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=128295#128295
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel Line Tubing |
bing alcohol resistant fuel line: blue in color
spruce no.
3/8 x 1/4 05-00500
1/4 x 1/8 05-00560
--------
kitfoxmike
model IV, 1200
speedster
912ul
building
RV7a
slowbuild wings, fuse, finish kit
"if you're not getting razzed from pilots or the FAA then you're not flying
enough"
Do not archive
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=128300#128300
Message 4
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| Subject: | New LSA Continental engine |
20 lbs. lighter than what? The standard 0200 or the Jabiru or the Rotax?
ANdy F.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of jdmcbean
Sent: Saturday, August 04, 2007 5:10 PM
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: New LSA Continental engine
We are a Continental OEM and have been talking with them... It is not complete
yet Pricing is supposed to be competitive to the Jab and Rotax and they are talking
about 20 lbs lighter.. Not complete yet.. so I guess we'll see.
Fly Safe !!
John & Debra McBean
208.337.5111
www.kitfoxaircraft.com
"It's not how Fast... It's how Fun!"
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of l.morris@tx.rr.com
Sent: Saturday, August 04, 2007 3:39 PM
Subject: Kitfox-List: New LSA Continental engine
Does any of you Oshkosh returnees have any info on the new LSA engine from Continental,
the 0-200D? Mostly interested on the weight and price.Might be a good
option to the Jab. Cessna is going to use it in their new LSA.----Leon Morris/Classic4/50%/Flower
Mound,TX
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel Line Tubing |
Dan, the hardware store variety is made of vinyl and in a very short time
will harden up and be leak prone. Over a longer period of time it can
actually get brittle to the point where any excess flexing can cause it to
crack. ACS has the Bing lines and also any
motorcycle/snowmachine/waverunner shop should have the correct stuff to use
that will hold up.
Deke Morisse
Mikado Michigan
S5/Subaru/CAP 355+ TT
"If you don't read the newspaper you are
uninformed, if you do read
the newspaper you are misinformed."
Mark Twain
----- Original Message -----
From: "DanM" <danm@gangnailtruss.com>
Sent: Thursday, August 09, 2007 11:55 AM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Fuel Line Tubing
>
> I'm getting ready to install the fuel lines from the wing tanks to the
header tank. My kit came with the rubber tubing that is not supposed to be
use so I need a replacement. I saw some clear vinyl tubing at the hardware
store and thought it maybe suitable. Any opinions out there? Thanks in
advance
>
> --------
> Dan Mc Intyre
> Kitfox Model IV, Jab 2200
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=128295#128295
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | New LSA Continental engine |
O-200
Fly Safe !!
John & Debra McBean
208.337.5111
www.kitfoxaircraft.com
"It's not how Fast... It's how Fun!"
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Andy Fultz
Sent: Thursday, August 09, 2007 11:54 AM
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: New LSA Continental engine
20 lbs. lighter than what? The standard 0200 or the Jabiru or the Rotax?
ANdy F.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of jdmcbean
Sent: Saturday, August 04, 2007 5:10 PM
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: New LSA Continental engine
We are a Continental OEM and have been talking with them... It is not complete
yet Pricing is supposed to be competitive to the Jab and Rotax and they are talking
about 20 lbs lighter.. Not complete yet.. so I guess we'll see.
Fly Safe !!
John & Debra McBean
208.337.5111
www.kitfoxaircraft.com
"It's not how Fast... It's how Fun!"
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of l.morris@tx.rr.com
Sent: Saturday, August 04, 2007 3:39 PM
Subject: Kitfox-List: New LSA Continental engine
Does any of you Oshkosh returnees have any info on the new LSA engine from Continental,
the 0-200D? Mostly interested on the weight and price.Might be a good
option to the Jab. Cessna is going to use it in their new LSA.----Leon Morris/Classic4/50%/Flower
Mound,TX
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel Line Tubing |
I have used the clear vinyl tubing to replace my sight tube and it has worked for
over a year and also has not discolored as did the original tubing furnished.
Jim Crowder
Series 5
Installing Jabiru 3300
-------------- Original message from "DanM" <danm@gangnailtruss.com>: --------------
>
> I'm getting ready to install the fuel lines from the wing tanks to the header
> tank. My kit came with the rubber tubing that is not supposed to be use so I
> need a replacement. I saw some clear vinyl tubing at the hardware store and
> thought it maybe suitable. Any opinions out there? Thanks in advance
>
> --------
> Dan Mc Intyre
> Kitfox Model IV, Jab 2200
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=128295#128295
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
<html>
<!-- BEGIN WEBMAIL STATIONERY -->
<head></head>
<body>
<!-- WEBMAIL STATIONERY noneset -->
<DIV></DIV>
<P>I have used the clear vinyl tubing to replace my sight tube and it has worked
for over a year and also has not discolored as did the original tubing furnished.</P>
<P> </P>
<P>Jim Crowder</P>
<P> </P>
<P>Series 5</P>
<P>Installing Jabiru 3300<BR></P>
-= - T
<!-- END WEBMAIL STATIONERY -->
<pre><b><font size=2 color="#000000" face="courier new,courier">
</b></font></pre></body></html>
Message 8
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| Subject: | RE: Kingfox tires |
I have done it on ATV wheels by hand. Using an ATV shop is miles better
if
for speed if nothing else. However if you are going to do it by hand
use
round pry bars and you can wrap them with the handy man's secret
weapon....
Duct tape. A bit of soapy water helps the tires slip off over the rims
too.
Just apply it after you break the bead down, a big job in itself.
Noel Loveys, RPP, AME intern
Campbellton, Newfoundland,
Canada
Kitfox Mod III-A, 582, B box, Ivo IFA
Aerocet 1100s
<mailto:noelloveys@yahoo.ca> noelloveys@yahoo.ca
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> Lowell Fitt
> Sent: Wednesday, August 08, 2007 3:29 PM
> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: RE: Kingfox tires
>
>
> <lcfitt@sbcglobal.net>
>
> Hi, Mark,
>
> I use the old drive on it with the front wheels of my truck
> trick. Put a
> piece of old carpet under the wheel to prevent damage. It is
> a tough home
> job, but it can be done. Sometimes I have my wife help me
> and she usuall
> runs the other way when I have wheel in hand and call her name.
>
> I once tried the small tire mount set, by Harbor freight and
> proceeded to
> damage the hub. Going to an ATV shop sounds like a good
> idea, but I have
> always been sort of a do-it-yourselfer.
>
> Lowell Fitt
> Cameron Park, CA
> Model IV-1200 R-912 UL Warp
> 1998 880 hrs.
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Napier, Mark" <Mark.Napier@sciatl.com>
> To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, August 08, 2007 8:58 AM
> Subject: Kitfox-List: RE: Kingfox tires
>
>
> <Mark.Napier@sciatl.com>
> >
> >
> > Hey Lowell,
> >
> > How do you break the tire bead loose? When I needed to get
> the old pair
> > off my rims I had to take them to an ATV shop.
> >
> > I mounted the new tires after many hours of polishing the
> rims to clean
> > up the seats. I bought some tire tools and a neighbor helped me put
> > them on.
> >
> > Now my left tire looses air again and I'll bet there is
> some corrosion
> > in the bead seats again.
> >
> > Thank you much,
> >
> > Mark Napier
> >
> >
> >
> > Time: 10:34:46 AM PST US
> > From: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt@sbcglobal.net>
> > Subject: Kitfox-List: Kingfox tires
> >
> >
> > I bought a pair of the Nankang tires several years ago from a vendor
> > other
> > than Mippi and had some issues with the bead leaking. I
> used the green
> > "Slime" for tubeless tires with good success. I used the
> version for
> > tubeless tires because I had heard that Slime was corrosive
> for alloy
> > wheels
> > and assumed that the tubeless variety was OK. Wrong. when
> it came time
> > to
> > replace the tires, there were pits all over the inner surface of the
> > rims.
> >
> > I was talking to a guy at an ATV place about the problem
> and he agreed
> > that
> > Slime will damage alloy rims and commented that it was to
> be used only
> > in
> > emergencies. I asked him what he used to seal the bead in difficult
> > cases
> > and he didn't want to say, but I got him to admit that he
> uses RTV. I
> > didn't like that idea as I could just see adding to the
> difficulty of
> > breaking the bead by gluing the tires to the rims. In
> frustration, I
> > did it
> > though as I got tired if having to top up the air every
> three days. The
> >
> > leak would be very slow at first, but as the pressure
> gradually dropped,
> > it
> > would proceed to a rush and then in a matter of a couple of hours it
> > would
> > be from soft to dead flat. I applied it only to the outside bead as
> > that
> > was the only place I could detect a leak by soaping.
> >
> > All was great until I discovered that the tires still would
> go flat, but
> > now
> > it would take a week or more to see the softening. I dealt
> with that
> > with
> > the comeressed air tank then decided to finally add the RTV to the
> > inside
> > bead - I only found that leak by removing the wheel and
> very carefully
> > soaping the whole tire. That took care of that by soap test, but
> > breaking
> > the bead had somehow disturbed the cured RTV on the
> oustside, and now
> > that
> > side leaked again - can of worms? Not really, rather than
> making bead
> > breakin harder, the RTV made breaking the bead much easier and after
> > cleaning up both sides, I wiped a thin layer of RTV with a
> gloved finger
> > in
> > both bead areas and presto - no leaks for the first time in lots of
> > years.
> >
> > If you want to try this, use the RTV recommended by the
> factory for the
> > fuel
> > tank installation. Some RTVs are corrosive to aluminum alloys.
> >
> > Lowell Fitt
> > Cameron Park, CA
> > Model IV-1200 R-912 UL Warp
> > 1998 880 hrs.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > - - - - - Appended by Scientific Atlanta, a Cisco
> company - - - - -
> > This e-mail and any attachments may contain information which is
> > confidential,
> > proprietary, privileged or otherwise protected by law. The
> information is
> > solely
> > intended for the named addressee (or a person responsible
> for delivering
> > it to
> > the addressee). If you are not the intended recipient of
> this message, you
> > are
> > not authorized to read, print, retain, copy or disseminate
> this message or
> > any
> > part of it. If you have received this e-mail in error,
> please notify the
> > sender
> > immediately by return e-mail and delete it from your computer.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 9
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John:
I think on GA aircraft riv nuts are allowed in basically non-structural
applications. This however is not GA but we want out planes to be
safe. I
expect a riv nut will be safe in any application where you would use a
blind
rivet. It's a great idea for installing glass.
Noel Loveys, RPP, AME intern
Campbellton, Newfoundland,
Canada
Kitfox Mod III-A, 582, B box, Ivo IFA
Aerocet 1100s
<mailto:noelloveys@yahoo.ca> noelloveys@yahoo.ca
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> john oakley
> Sent: Wednesday, August 08, 2007 7:58 PM
> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Rivnut question
>
>
>
> Lowell,
> I used ruvnuts on my bubble door and my windshield, they sale
> keyed and
> unkeyed, there is a tool that you insert into the drilled
> hole and pull the
> leaver much like a rivet gun. It cuts the keyway for the
> rivnut. You then
> install the rivnut and use the squeeze tool, again much like
> a rivet gun and
> it pulls and wrinkles the rivnut to the needed thickness. If
> I remember
> right the rivnut come in varying thickness again like rivets.
>
> My windshield and several other attachments are done using
> rivnuts.. I will
> continue using them in other projects.
>
> John Oakley
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> Lowell Fitt
> Sent: Wednesday, August 08, 2007 8:32 AM
> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Rivnut question
>
> <lcfitt@sbcglobal.net>
>
> Dave,
>
> Maybe when saying rivnuts, some mean to say nut plates. That
> is the way I
> will go when I do my next replacement. I find rivnuts a bit
> more challenging
>
> than nutplates and thickness of the material matters. I
> don't know how a
> rivnut would work with a backing and a 1/8" capstrip.
>
> If anyone has actually used rivnuts, how did you do it.
>
> Lowell
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Dave G." <occom@ns.sympatico.ca>
> To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, August 08, 2007 3:15 AM
> Subject: Kitfox-List: Rivnut question
>
>
> >
> > I've seen rivnuts in 6-32 and they look awfully big to
> sneak into the rib
> > capstrip. Has anyone got pictures of this installation?
> >
> > Dave Goddard- Mod IV 1050/582
> > do not archive
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Kingfox tires |
Mike:
Are the tires on your Piper Turbo Arrow III low pressure?? That would make
a difference. Obviously some of the guys on this list have used tubes
successfully. I repeated what I had been told about low pressure tires.
It's not an issue on floats...
Our old pal Dave Fisher, the swashbuckling, mud stomping flyer sent me a
link to his page where he has a picture of his "custom" tire tool. I don't
know exactly how it works but you can go here
<http://www.cfisher.com/kingfox.html> http://www.cfisher.com/kingfox.html
for a look. Any one wh has been looking for a set of the King fox super
tires can also contact him..... I think he could scare up a set. ;->
Noel Loveys, RPP, AME intern
Campbellton, Newfoundland,
Canada
Kitfox Mod III-A, 582, B box, Ivo IFA
Aerocet 1100s
<mailto:noelloveys@yahoo.ca> noelloveys@yahoo.ca
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> Michael Gibbs
> Sent: Thursday, August 09, 2007 1:26 PM
> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: Kingfox tires
>
>
> <MichaelGibbs@cox.net>
>
> Lowell sez:
>
> >I have read reports on the kitfox list (in the days of old) and the
> >lancair list of valve stems shearing. This is why I have avoided
> >tubes.
>
> My 1978 Piper Turbo Arrow III has inner tubes in all of her
> tires--came that way from the factory, I believe. We've never had a
> problem with valve stems or loss of air.
>
> Mike G.
> List Mom
> Model IV-1200, N728KF
> Phoenix, AZ
>
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | 582 engine adjustments |
I wrote a message on 7 July entitiled "Finally I flew my airplane". This is an
update and comments are welcomed.
I traveled to Oshkosh and talked with folks. To address the apparant low reading
airspeed indicator, It was suggested that I vent my static port behind the dash,
rather than use my new Skystar static port tapped just under and forward
of the left horz stab. I will do further testing prior to that.
I spent an afternoon with a friend of a friend who knows 2 cycle engines. To my
surprise, we found the throttles clearly and visibly mis-matched at an intermediate
position. I had matched them at near full open and at the idle stop. Either
they are not moving up and down at the same rate, which would seem impossible,
or the gremlins got hold of them after I initially set them. Re-adjust
made a big difference, stopping the skip at the high end completely. There was
still an inconsistency at the low end (less than 3000RPM and more on that later).
To me it seemed like a spark plug firing intermittantly. This guy called
it "4 cycling" and said it was something 2 cycles do when the carbs need adjusting
and it meant that a spark plug was firing only every other stroke. He noted
that my throttle to carb linkage was imprecise. He saw that the fulcrum that
splits one cable to three was cantilevered several inches and the arm would
bend very slightly with throttle movement. He asked me to attach a brace to stop
ancillary movement at that location, which I have since done. He sent me to
these sites which I have seen before, but it has been a while .
http://www.ultralightnews.com/enginetroublshooting/techtips/techtips1.htm
http://www.ultralightnews.com/enginetroublshooting/techtips/techtips2.htm
Contained in these links are links for the recommended jetting settings. I may as well include that one: http://www.ultralightnews.com/enginemaintenance/bingjet.html
My jets are right, but I have questions about the air screw. The chart shows a
setting of 1.0 for a 582. Does that mean one full turn from all the way in? The
second link above contains this quote:
"This air screw changes the air/fuel mixture by changing the ratio of air to the
idle jet circuit. Turning the screw out with lean the mixture while turning
it in richens it.
After referring to the jet chart you have a position to start from. With the engine
warmed up and idling and the screw set to factory specs turn the screw out
very slowly - the engine should start to pick up rpm as you lean the mixture
out. If nothing happens the low speed jet is probably plugged, or the small
atomizer hole located in the throat of the carb on the engine side is blocked.
Once you have the engine idling at its highest and leanest setting using the air
screw turn the screw back in 1/8 of a turn which will richen it up just enough
for the best performance.
Note it is usually necessary to do this three or four times a year, do to the
difference in air that you get in spring/summer/fall/winter. Note that on the
582 Rotax I have found that 45 and 50 idle jet work better than the standard 55
especially in winter. On the 582 the lower jet sizes have been shown to improve
starting and help eliminate the rough idle."
I might have trouble finding a volunteer to turn those screws while the engine
is running.
I asked several questions at Oshkosh about shimming a GSC prop due to tracking
beyond recommended limits of 1/8 inch. I found one person who had shimmed due
to tracking, and he said that he never noticed vibration when it was out of track,
but he shimmed to make it right. I have since added a .010 shim of copper,
per Rick at GSC and made my tracking right as well, but the vibration, presumed
4 cycling, persists below 3000 RPM. Another distractor regarding vibration
is the old flat plate engine mount design. Can anybody provide information about
why the flat plate was upgraded to another arrangement?
When we first started the engine, some months ago, and pitched the prop, we put
a strobe on the blades to check the RPM against the tach. With no reason to think
it was off, the two disagreed so bad we thought we were doing the gearbox
conversion wrong or that the strobe was off. There are different pitfalls when
you make rebuilding an airplane your project, rather than building from scratch.
After too much delay, I borrowed another strobe tach and compared. The
two strobe tachs agreed and the engine tach was reading, fortunately, too high.
I am lucky. I thought I had set my prop for 6200 on takeoff, but it was turning
more like 5500. I am thinking this might be part of my cooling problem, too
much pitch? Thoughts? Would too much pitch tend to overheat my engine? Above
links suggest that I am flirting with engine failure with too much pitch, but
you guys chat about different settings, so how much latitude do I get?
On the subject of temp trouble, one person suggested that I lower the radiator.
I asked the guys at Oshkosh (Lockwood) what is the highest temp allowed, I had
also asked Ronnie at South Mississippi. Both said that 190 was getting up there
with no firm number other than immediate action required at 200. Mine is always
below 185, but the maintenance manual says 80deg C and converts it to 180
F. I will re-pitch the prop regardless and maybe that will make it run cooler.
If not, I may lower the radiator or try a 95% water solution as suggested by
the first link above. Here is the quote on that:
"Coolant: In order to run a liquid cooled engine we have to install coolant. Rotax
recommends on the two stroke engines that a 50/50 antifreeze and water mixture
be used. The antifreeze MUST be one that is aluminum compatible and the water
used must be distilled. In summer applications I recommend a 95 % water -
5% antifreeze solution - this is considerably more efficient especially in hotter
climates."
--------
Jeff Dill
Model 2, 767JD
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http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=128382#128382
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel Line Tubing |
I am going to use Tygon tubing to replace the clear plastic with - the shop where
I bought it said that it is standard for using with auto fuel.
--------
Kent Knudsen
College Station, TX
K-IV 1200 / no engine / 25% done
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Message 13
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| Subject: | New and seeking info !! |
I am new to this group. I have recently purchased a partially complete series 4-1200.
I have a lot of questions for anyone that can help. First, The purchase
came with a set of quick build wings from a series 5. I was hoping to find out
if they will be suitable to use or should I be looking for a proper set of series
4 wings. I have barely looked at the wings as they are crated and temporarily
stored. I believe the spar spacing is the same as the series 4. I think
I will need to purchase a complete build manual. Where can I find this? Are they
worth buying or is there an after market guide that is better? Is there information
available for scratch building parts - say as flaperons ? I am reading
a lot of the posts and find the forum great. Looking forward to the build adventure.
Thanks for now,
Keith
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http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=128416#128416
Message 14
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| Subject: | New and seeking info !! |
Keith,
Welcome to the family. We are here just for guys like you. I am flying my
1200 speedster for 9 years, and I love it. Your 5 wings are great and
actually will give you some improvement over the stock 4 wings, like thicker
spars. Where so you live, what engine are you thinking.
John Oakley
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Keithc
Sent: Thursday, August 09, 2007 10:12 PM
Subject: Kitfox-List: New and seeking info !!
I am new to this group. I have recently purchased a partially complete
series 4-1200. I have a lot of questions for anyone that can help. First,
The purchase came with a set of quick build wings from a series 5. I was
hoping to find out if they will be suitable to use or should I be looking
for a proper set of series 4 wings. I have barely looked at the wings as
they are crated and temporarily stored. I believe the spar spacing is the
same as the series 4. I think I will need to purchase a complete build
manual. Where can I find this? Are they worth buying or is there an after
market guide that is better? Is there information available for scratch
building parts - say as flaperons ? I am reading a lot of the posts and find
the forum great. Looking forward to the build adventure.
Thanks for now,
Keith
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=128416#128416
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: New and seeking info !! |
I hope I am doing this correctly. I have read about repeat attachment or what ever
commonly happens. I have not been involved with a forum befor.
I live in Cambridge Ontario Canada. I am hoping to use a 912 but am not sure yet.
I was also considering the auto conversion option. First I will concentrate
on gathering information and completing or replacing the assembly manual and
making my "fire wall back" plan of attack.
thanks
Keith
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http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=128419#128419
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: New and seeking info !! |
Keith,
It may help to know what vin. number your fuselage is. Mine is HBS-046 a 92
vintage.the best auto conversions are the Subaru, it is a time proven
engine, the VW is being used by a few. The engine you chose my effect the
how the wing is installed. The heaver engines call for the wing to be
cantered forward so that the tips lead the inboard. The 1200 is a good
platform, but the weight ability can be an issue. My plane is a 1200 and is
720 empty; I licensed for 1320 and use it at this weight often. I like you
had heaver spars, and used longer inserts and heaver struts.
Things to think of.....
Is the fuse covered yet?
John Oakley
Salt lake city area
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Keithc
Sent: Thursday, August 09, 2007 10:39 PM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: New and seeking info !!
I hope I am doing this correctly. I have read about repeat attachment or
what ever commonly happens. I have not been involved with a forum befor.
I live in Cambridge Ontario Canada. I am hoping to use a 912 but am not sure
yet. I was also considering the auto conversion option. First I will
concentrate on gathering information and completing or replacing the
assembly manual and making my "fire wall back" plan of attack.
thanks
Keith
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=128419#128419
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: New and seeking info !! |
I have found some manuals on http://www.kitfox.eu/ under technical.
They have the wing manuals and some others.
I have a kitfox classic 4 kit with manuals (no softcopy) have not started
assembly yet but soon.
http://kitfoxaircraft.com/ will answer support questions and may have other
manuals
----- Original Message -----
From: "Keithc" <keith@intev.ca>
Sent: Thursday, August 09, 2007 11:39 PM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: New and seeking info !!
>
> I hope I am doing this correctly. I have read about repeat attachment or
> what ever commonly happens. I have not been involved with a forum befor.
> I live in Cambridge Ontario Canada. I am hoping to use a 912 but am not
> sure yet. I was also considering the auto conversion option. First I will
> concentrate on gathering information and completing or replacing the
> assembly manual and making my "fire wall back" plan of attack.
> thanks
> Keith
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=128419#128419
>
>
>
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