Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:20 AM - Re: Re: Strut fairing questions. (JC Propellerdesign)
2. 03:24 AM - Re: Broken tailwheel spring- revelation (Lynn Matteson)
3. 05:08 AM - Re: Vortex Generators/Turbulator's (dave)
4. 05:34 AM - Re: Re: Exhaust parts 582 (JC Propellerdesign)
5. 05:43 AM - Re: Re: Strut fairing questions. (Noel Loveys)
6. 05:43 AM - Re: Bunches of stuff (Noel Loveys)
7. 11:52 AM - Re: Exhaust parts 582 (dave)
8. 12:34 PM - Re: Re: Strut fairing questions. (Paul Seehafer)
9. 01:25 PM - Re: Broken tailwheel spring- revelation (Mike Chaney)
10. 01:31 PM - Re: Re: Strut fairing questions. (JC Propellerdesign)
11. 05:36 PM - Fuel Master Valve ()
12. 05:38 PM - Re: Broken tailwheel spring- revelation (Steve Shinabery)
13. 06:04 PM - Re: Broken tailwheel spring- revelation (dave)
14. 08:40 PM - Re: Landing in Treetops (Michael Gibbs)
15. 08:44 PM - Trim Authority (wingnut)
16. 09:17 PM - Re: Trim Authority (kerrimikehickman@aol.com)
17. 09:41 PM - Re: Trim Authority (wingnut)
18. 10:37 PM - New subscriber-1st post-request for info (Ernest and Jane Deel)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Strut fairing questions. |
Hi
It depends on the Reynolds number, a cyl (tube) with Re <10^5 have drag
coefficient 1 - 1,3, and with Re >10^6 = CD 0,30
With an airfoil of length 3:1 (0,333) and Re >10^6 = CD 0,04
with a Re under 10^5 the length have to be 5:1 (0,20) to get same drag
CD 0,04
a 2" diameter tube at 100 MPH have Re 1,56*10^5
8" long and Re is 6,26*10^5 and CD will be 0,012 with reference to the
surface area
so with say total 10 meter of 2" tube the drag will be 60-80 kg
and with airfoil 3 kg at 100 MPH
And a NACA 67-020 or NACA 67-025 will have little more then half the
drag a NACA 0020 - 0025 will have if made correct.
Jan
----- Original Message -----
From: dave
To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, September 17, 2007 2:35 AM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: Strut fairing questions.
I have to check from Hoerners book but i think it around 4 to 1
ratio
--------
Rotax Dealer, Ontario Canada
Flying Videos and Kitfox Info
http://www.cfisher.com/
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=134742#134742
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Broken tailwheel spring- revelation |
Not so fast there, Michel...when I broke my 2-leaf (main and helper/
booster/whatever) I still got a bit of rash on my rudder because the
tailwheel flopped around a bit and the rear of the plane dropped down
to be SUPPORTED by the helper leaf (as it dragged along in the dirt),
but the tailwheel could STILL cause you damage because it is no
longer held in position by anything. You could still break your main
leaf and cause damage to the plane without the rudder actually
hitting the ground. With the new three-leaf spring, there are two
main leafs that have to break before the above scenario would happen.
My 2-leaf spring broke at about the 450 or so landings mark, and
based on metallurgy, your new one may go before or after that. I had
43 pounds on my tail during weighing. I bought the 3-leaf model
because it is a safety feature, not because I needed a stiffer spring.
Taking this whole safety/stiffness thing a bit further, one might
conclude that if a spring were to be made of 1/8" (3mm) leaves, one
could use maybe four leaves that are all held by the current two
bolts, that maybe a softer ride would result, and the safety margin
would be much greater.
Lynn Matteson
Grass Lake, Michigan
Kitfox IV Speedster w/Jabiru 2200
flying w/400+ hrs
do not archive
On Sep 16, 2007, at 1:21 PM, Michel Verheughe wrote:
>
> Hello Lynn,
>
> On Sep 16, 2007, at 6:53 PM, Lynn Matteson wrote:
>> When you speak of a "single blade", and later adding a "second
>> blade", are you counting all the blades/leafs (that's what they
>> call 'em Stateside)?
>
> Yep, that's what I meant. Speaking foreign languages can sometimes
> be very funny. The first price, I think, goes to my Norwegian wife
> who said, many years ago: public hair, when she meant: pubic hair! :-)
>
> Yes I was talking about the 1/4" steel leaf. I had only the main
> one. Now I have a new main one and a "helper," as you call it. I
> was also told that John had three leafs springs. But I figured out
> that if I could do 950 landings on a single one, I can do with two
> leafs for a while. The think is: when I do the weight and balance
> on my model 3, I have only 18 kg (40 pounds) on the tail. Many of
> the newer models are much heavier than that.
> But you've got a good point there, if I am to break my main leaf
> now, the plane will rest on the 'helper' and the rudder will be safe.
>
> Cheers,
> Michel Verheughe
> Kitfox 3 - Jabiru 2200
>
> Do not archive
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Vortex Generators/Turbulator's |
Update on VG testing .........
just in from more aggressive stall testing.
power off -- full aft stick - just get a 500 fpm mush with less buffet that without
VGs and no nose drop.
power on -- 3 stalls - one right wing dropped other 2 no wing drop .
still less buffeting that before .
So far, satisfied with VGs and no cruise speed loss it seems. as far as claims
of these 8 + mph stall speed drops -- in my case that just a myth so far but
2 or 3 mph about the most of got SO FAR .
http://www.cfisher.com/vg.html
--------
Rotax Dealer, Ontario Canada
Flying Videos and Kitfox Info
http://www.cfisher.com/
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=134800#134800
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Exhaust parts 582 |
Dave,
With about 250 RPM gain at WOT you have increased power with about 12%
like going from 60 to 67, or 65 to 73 Hp
increasing speed with 3,85 %
Jan
----- Original Message -----
From: dave
To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, September 17, 2007 5:11 AM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: Exhaust parts 582
Well the Y pipe is what was cut I think at Skystar as well as the 90
Elbow but I added mine to the elbow. Your elbow will be near the cowl
and might burn a hole in it but a air outlet could be added there or
just a bump. The muffler will not longer be straight below the engine
but on a little angle. I am sure there is a way to alter more but I
have not spent the time on it yet.
Basically I just added 1 1/2 inches to the header directly onto the
elbow on the top of it. I could have added to the y pipe but it seemed
easier to do it this way.
Just out for a 1 hour flight with a friend , I have on the IVO medium
right now and it worked well about 4 mph faster that without the
exhaust mod.
Now all we need to do it put a different pipe on it and see another 5
or 10 hp :)
--------
Rotax Dealer, Ontario Canada
Flying Videos and Kitfox Info
http://www.cfisher.com/
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=134777#134777
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/8_174.jpg
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Strut fairing questions. |
Dave check the ratio on the extruded spars on your floats and let us know.
Noel Loveys, RPP, AME intern
Campbellton, Newfoundland,
Canada
Kitfox Mod III-A, 582, B box, Ivo IFA
Aerocet 1100s
<mailto:noelloveys@yahoo.ca> noelloveys@yahoo.ca
Do not archive
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of dave
> Sent: Sunday, September 16, 2007 10:05 PM
> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: Strut fairing questions.
>
>
>
> I have to check from Hoerners book but i think it around
> 4 to 1 ratio
>
> --------
> Rotax Dealer, Ontario Canada
> Flying Videos and Kitfox Info
> http://www.cfisher.com/
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=134742#134742
>
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Bunches of stuff |
>From what I've read MMO is mostly Stoddard solvent (Varisol) and lard.
I
have no idea what the lard does for the recipe but I know I don't want
Varisol soaking the seals in the base of my engine. I might consider
using
the stuff for the last ten hours or so before an engine tear down for
new
seals just to clean things up a bit for inspection. sorry guys but I'm
with
the crowd that is NOT in favour of additives to gas or oil for planes.
If you are getting too much carbon in your engine and your oil ratios
are
correct then you are using the wrong brand of oil. Bombardier, the
manufacturer's, oil, Pennzoil air-cooled and "El Cheapo" WallyWorld oil
all
seem to work well according to the reports from this and other lists.
Noel Loveys, RPP, AME intern
Campbellton, Newfoundland,
Canada
Kitfox Mod III-A, 582, B box, Ivo IFA
Aerocet 1100s
<mailto:noelloveys@yahoo.ca> noelloveys@yahoo.ca
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Andy Fultz
Sent: Sunday, September 16, 2007 9:58 PM
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Bunches of stuff
If the Mystery Oil is causing damage to the needle tips, I can't help
but
wonder what it's doing to the inside of your fuel lines and or oil
injection
lines?
Andy F.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Herbert Doud
Sent: Saturday, September 15, 2007 4:59 PM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Bunches of stuff
Many thanks to all of you Kitfoxers who responded either to me directly
or
to the list concerning my question as to why we Kitfoxers put the
firewall
blanket on the engine side, instead of on the cabin side as do GA
aircraft
manufacturers. A large number of builders who responded, have eiher
done
away with the blanket or have installed it on the cabin side of the
firewall, which makes sense to this old fart.
Now to another subject. I guess everyone who messes with car and
airplane
engines have heard of Marvel Mystery Oil. I'v used it off and on for
50
years.
I bought an ATV sometime back and through short trip useage and many
starts,
the spark plug was carboning up and fouling. Most of my use with
Marvel,
was in the engine oil, for break-ins and hard useage. On the container
Marvel is also suggested for the fuel, for upper end lube and cleaning
of
the cylinders.
I tried it on the ATV and for a coupla weeks, using the recommended
amount
in the fuel and it worked super. The plug cleaned up, starts were
easier
and it idled better........But, I started getting a gasoline puddle
under my
ATV, coming out of the carb overflow.
Bunches of work, but I pulled the carb, looked at the float needle and
it
had turned gummy and was leaking. So I installed a new needle and put
the
works back together. A week or so later, I started getting a large
fuel
puddle under the ATV again.
Earlier, it had worked so well, before getting fuel leakage under the
ATV, I
also had put in in my gas for the 582 on my Kitfox. Worked great there
too, keeping clean plugs and smooth idling.
I hadn't had the plane out in a coupla weeks and when I saw the gas
puddle
under the ATV, I hobbled out to the folded wing, mini hanger, checked
the
carbs for leaking and sure enough, there was a large gas puddle on the
floor
under the engine. I was mixing the plane gas with the premix oil and
adding the suggested amount of Marvel Mystery Oil.
I pulled both carbs and checked the rubber tips on the float needles and
they were deteriorating.
Not being a real fast thinker, I guess, I cussed to myself, about the
poor
quality of tips on the needle valves and how things just weren't up to
the
standards of earlier years.
I replaced the Bing needles, and made no changes in the Marvel oil as it
was
sure working good in cleaning up the combustion chanmbers.
A week or so later, I had another gas puddle under the plane and the ATV
was
still leaking gas. Finally the gray mater lit up and I drained the
fuel
tanks on both the plane and the ATV and again, replaced the float
needles on
the 2 engines. After I'd used up all the bad words that I learned from
all
the bad people I knew, I hadda start making up a whole lot of new ones,
that I'd like to pass on.... But I can't spell 'em.
Any way, I changed the 582 over to oil injection and am using the Marvel
in
the oil injection system and quit putting Marvel in the ATV. It's been
several months now and no more fuel leakage from either engine.
It seems that the Marvel is a good product, if it not used where it can
come
in contact with the rubber tips they are now using on the float needles.
(they all used to be brass tips) Marvel sure keeps things cleaned up
and
seems to work great in the 4 cycle oil engines, But beware of mixing
with
gasoline in the fuel tanks.
My ATV still fouls plugs, so I buy them buy the dozen. If anyon's
interested in some old fouled plugs to play with, I have some real
cheap.
Herbert Doud
Kitfox IV/582
New Braunfels, Tx
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List">http://www.matron
href
"http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Exhaust parts 582 |
Kind of nice eh !! [Laughing] [Laughing] [Laughing] [Laughing]
> Dave,
>
> With about 250 RPM gain at WOT you have increased power with about 12% like going
from 60 to 67, or 65 to 73 Hp
>
> increasing speed with 3,85 %
>
> Jan
--------
Rotax Dealer, Ontario Canada
Flying Videos and Kitfox Info
http://www.cfisher.com/
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=134871#134871
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Strut fairing questions. |
All,
For any of you having a little trouble interpreting Jan's formulas,
here's the laymens formula for determining fairing sizes as I remember
it;
For every inch of thickness of the part you want to streamline, you need
a fairing 4.25 times wider. In other words, if you have a one inch
round strut tube, you will need a streamline fairing with a 4.25 inch
wide chord. Interestingly, the shape of streamlined chromoly and
aluminum for aircraft generally do not meet this rule, as for the most
part they have too narrow of a chord (Go figure?)
Now this is just a general rule of thumb, and it's off the top of my
head. So if you want more technical than that, talk to Jan...
Paul Seehafer
Kitfox IV 912ul amphib
----- Original Message -----
From: JC Propellerdesign
To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, September 17, 2007 3:19 AM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Re: Strut fairing questions.
Hi
It depends on the Reynolds number, a cyl (tube) with Re <10^5 have
drag coefficient 1 - 1,3, and with Re >10^6 = CD 0,30
With an airfoil of length 3:1 (0,333) and Re >10^6 = CD 0,04
with a Re under 10^5 the length have to be 5:1 (0,20) to get same drag
CD 0,04
a 2" diameter tube at 100 MPH have Re 1,56*10^5
8" long and Re is 6,26*10^5 and CD will be 0,012 with reference to the
surface area
so with say total 10 meter of 2" tube the drag will be 60-80 kg
and with airfoil 3 kg at 100 MPH
And a NACA 67-020 or NACA 67-025 will have little more then half the
drag a NACA 0020 - 0025 will have if made correct.
Jan
----- Original Message -----
From: dave
To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, September 17, 2007 2:35 AM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: Strut fairing questions.
I have to check from Hoerners book but i think it around 4 to 1
ratio
--------
Rotax Dealer, Ontario Canada
Flying Videos and Kitfox Info
http://www.cfisher.com/
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=134742#134742
http://www.matron===================
===
bsp; available via
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Broken tailwheel spring- revelation |
Would a metal tube shaped like a C attached right in front of the tail wheel spring
serve as a stop to prevent damage in the event of a tail wheel spring break?
This could resemble the skid used on the d tail wheel planes.
Mike Chaney
Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt@jps.net> wrote:
Not so fast there, Michel...when I broke my 2-leaf (main and helper/
booster/whatever) I still got a bit of rash on my rudder because the
tailwheel flopped around a bit and the rear of the plane dropped down
to be SUPPORTED by the helper leaf (as it dragged along in the dirt),
but the tailwheel could STILL cause you damage because it is no
longer held in position by anything. You could still break your main
leaf and cause damage to the plane without the rudder actually
hitting the ground. With the new three-leaf spring, there are two
main leafs that have to break before the above scenario would happen.
My 2-leaf spring broke at about the 450 or so landings mark, and
based on metallurgy, your new one may go before or after that. I had
43 pounds on my tail during weighing. I bought the 3-leaf model
because it is a safety feature, not because I needed a stiffer spring.
Taking this whole safety/stiffness thing a bit further, one might
conclude that if a spring were to be made of 1/8" (3mm) leaves, one
could use maybe four leaves that are all held by the current two
bolts, that maybe a softer ride would result, and the safety margin
would be much greater.
Lynn Matteson
Grass Lake, Michigan
Kitfox IV Speedster w/Jabiru 2200
flying w/400+ hrs
do not archive
On Sep 16, 2007, at 1:21 PM, Michel Verheughe wrote:
>
> Hello Lynn,
>
> On Sep 16, 2007, at 6:53 PM, Lynn Matteson wrote:
>> When you speak of a "single blade", and later adding a "second
>> blade", are you counting all the blades/leafs (that's what they
>> call 'em Stateside)?
>
> Yep, that's what I meant. Speaking foreign languages can sometimes
> be very funny. The first price, I think, goes to my Norwegian wife
> who said, many years ago: public hair, when she meant: pubic hair! :-)
>
> Yes I was talking about the 1/4" steel leaf. I had only the main
> one. Now I have a new main one and a "helper," as you call it. I
> was also told that John had three leafs springs. But I figured out
> that if I could do 950 landings on a single one, I can do with two
> leafs for a while. The think is: when I do the weight and balance
> on my model 3, I have only 18 kg (40 pounds) on the tail. Many of
> the newer models are much heavier than that.
> But you've got a good point there, if I am to break my main leaf
> now, the plane will rest on the 'helper' and the rudder will be safe.
>
> Cheers,
> Michel Verheughe
> Kitfox 3 - Jabiru 2200
>
> Do not archive
>
---------------------------------
Building a website is a piece of cake.
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Strut fairing questions. |
Well spoken.
Re number is the length in mm (millimeter) times airspeed in m/s times
70. (there is a formula for inch, feet and miles too)
in short, wing struts is UNDER CRITICAL Re. so need 4 to 1 or 5 to1 in
length versus thickness. and / or laminar layer control ( Think golf
ball) to trip the boundary layer into TURBULENT layer that have energy
to follow the airfoil.
can be made of Dyno tape (old one) with big V typed all the way. or cut
length vise with a zigzag scissor (for fabric) and the cut turned into
the airstream, applied both side of wingstrut. at highest point, or just
forward of.
CD is Drag Coefficient that relates to something like wet area or
frontal area (different coefficients)
To get the actual drag, CD times the reference area times Dynamic
pressure. simple as that.
and at level flight drag equal thrust, and lift equal weight (almost)
Jan
----- Original Message -----
From: Paul Seehafer
To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, September 17, 2007 9:34 PM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Re: Strut fairing questions.
All,
For any of you having a little trouble interpreting Jan's formulas,
here's the laymens formula for determining fairing sizes as I remember
it;
For every inch of thickness of the part you want to streamline, you
need a fairing 4.25 times wider. In other words, if you have a one inch
round strut tube, you will need a streamline fairing with a 4.25 inch
wide chord. Interestingly, the shape of streamlined chromoly and
aluminum for aircraft generally do not meet this rule, as for the most
part they have too narrow of a chord (Go figure?)
Now this is just a general rule of thumb, and it's off the top of my
head. So if you want more technical than that, talk to Jan...
Paul Seehafer
Kitfox IV 912ul amphib
----- Original Message -----
From: JC Propellerdesign
To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, September 17, 2007 3:19 AM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Re: Strut fairing questions.
Hi
It depends on the Reynolds number, a cyl (tube) with Re <10^5 have
drag coefficient 1 - 1,3, and with Re >10^6 = CD 0,30
With an airfoil of length 3:1 (0,333) and Re >10^6 = CD 0,04
with a Re under 10^5 the length have to be 5:1 (0,20) to get same
drag CD 0,04
a 2" diameter tube at 100 MPH have Re 1,56*10^5
8" long and Re is 6,26*10^5 and CD will be 0,012 with reference to
the surface area
so with say total 10 meter of 2" tube the drag will be 60-80 kg
and with airfoil 3 kg at 100 MPH
And a NACA 67-020 or NACA 67-025 will have little more then half the
drag a NACA 0020 - 0025 will have if made correct.
Jan
----- Original Message -----
From: dave
To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, September 17, 2007 2:35 AM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: Strut fairing questions.
I have to check from Hoerners book but i think it around 4 to
1 ratio
--------
Rotax Dealer, Ontario Canada
Flying Videos and Kitfox Info
http://www.cfisher.com/
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=134742#134742
http://www.matron===================
===
bsp; available via
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List">http://www.matron
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
Message 11
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| Subject: | Fuel Master Valve |
I was cleaning out some old boxes and found the original fuel master
valve that came with my model 3 kit back in 1991. I simplified the fuel
line routing and ended up not using it. If you want it and the little
shroud / mount it's in, please contact me privately and I'll send it to
you.
Regards,
John Stoner
KF III, 582
Alaska
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Broken tailwheel spring- revelation |
Too Lynn Matteson: where can I get the triple leaf??I too only have
single leaf.and it all ready broke once on this plane.I want to up date
it all so.can U tell me where to go for this??Steve Shinabery,N554KF,
KF2 582 gray head,,,St.Marys Ohio
Mike Chaney wrote:
> Would a metal tube shaped like a C attached right in front of the tail
> wheel spring serve as a stop to prevent damage in the event of a tail
> wheel spring break? This could resemble the skid used on the d tail
> wheel planes.
>
> Mike Chaney
>
> */Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt@jps.net>/* wrote:
>
>
> Not so fast there, Michel...when I broke my 2-leaf (main and helper/
> booster/whatever) I still got a bit of rash on my rudder because the
> tailwheel flopped around a bit and the rear of the plane dropped down
> to be SUPPORTED by the helper leaf (as it dragged along in the dirt),
> but the tailwheel could STILL cause you damage because it is no
> longer held in position by anything. You could still break your main
> leaf and cause damage to the plane without the rudder actually
> hitting the ground. With the new three-leaf spring, there are two
> main leafs that have to break before the above scenario would happen.
> My 2-leaf spring broke at about the 450 or so landings mark, and
> based on metallurgy, your new one may go before or after that. I had
> 43 pounds on my tail during weighing. I bought the 3-leaf model
> because it is a safety feature, not because I needed a stiffer spring.
> Taking this whole safety/stiffness thing a bit further, one might
> conclude that if a spring were to be made of 1/8" (3mm) leaves, one
> could use maybe four leaves that are all held by the current two
> bolts, that maybe a softer ride would result, and the safety margin
> would be much greater.
>
>
> Lynn Matteson
> Grass Lake, Michigan
> Kitfox IV Speedster w/Jabiru 2200
> flying w/400+ hrs
> do not archive
>
>
> On Sep 16, 2007, at 1:21 PM, Michel Verheughe wrote:
>
> >
> > Hello Lynn,
> >
> > On Sep 16, 2007, at 6:53 PM, Lynn Matteson wrote:
> >> When you speak of a "single blade", and later adding a "second
> >> blade", are you counting all the blades/leafs (that's what they
> >> call 'em Stateside)?
> >
> > Yep, that's what I meant. Speaking foreign languages can sometimes
> > be very funny. The first price, I think, goes to my Norwegian wife
> > who said, many years ago: public hair, when she meant: pubic
> hair! :-)
> >
> > Yes I was talking about the 1/4" steel leaf. I had only the main
> > one. Now I have a new main one and a "helper," as you call it. I
> > was also told that John had three leafs springs. But I figured out
> > that if I could do 950 landings on a single one, I can do with two
> > leafs for a while. The think is: when I do the weight and balance
> > on
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Broken tailwheel spring- revelation |
Call John Mc Bean, he sells them.
You can make your own if you can find 1 1/4 " wide springs but they hard to find.
IF you want one now just call and get it shipped right away. I forget price but
I think 50 to 75$ area. I got one and it works ok.
--------
Rotax Dealer, Ontario Canada
Flying Videos and Kitfox Info
http://www.cfisher.com/
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=134941#134941
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Landing in Treetops |
Paul sez:
>I agree 100% that a light aircraft has a much higher chance of
>survivabilty than would a heavier one.
After my accident, I told my partners that I wished the accident had
happened in our Piper because the insurance company could just buy us
a new one rather than my having to build another one. One of my
Kitfox buddies assured me that I probably would not have survived in
that faster, heavier airplane.
Mike G.
N728KF
Phoenix, AZ
Message 15
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I have electric trim on my model 4. It works great except for one thing; When landing
with flaps, it doesn't have enough authority to trim hands off at 55 mph.
I still need a fair amount of back pressure to keep the speed down. I'm still
not comfortable landing at my 1200ft farm field with trees on both ends and
being able to trim out all the back pressure would really help. Any ideas?
--------
Luis Rodriguez
Model IV 1200
Rotax 912UL
Flying Weekly
Laurens, SC (34A)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=134969#134969
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Trim Authority |
Hi,
I have a model 6, same initial problem, John McBean on his website I believe sells
a tension spring (trim assist) which pre-loads the control stick and really
does cure this ill...no more running out of trim w/the electric system, and
hands-off to stall works great.? Give him a call.? Cheers.? Mike H.
-----Original Message-----
From: wingnut <wingnut@spamarrest.com>
Sent: Mon, 17 Sep 2007 9:44 pm
Subject: Kitfox-List: Trim Authority
I have electric trim on my model 4. It works great except for one thing; When
landing with flaps, it doesn't have enough authority to trim hands off at 55
mph. I still need a fair amount of back pressure to keep the speed down. I'm
still not comfortable landing at my 1200ft farm field with trees on both ends
and being able to trim out all the back pressure would really help. Any ideas?
--------
Luis Rodriguez
Model IV 1200
Rotax 912UL
Flying Weekly
Laurens, SC (34A)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=134969#134969
________________________________________________________________________
Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! - http://mail.aol.com
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Trim Authority |
Does the spring system work in conjunction with the existing electric trim? How
is it adjusted? Would I then have two separate trim systems to adjust?
> have a model 6, same initial problem, John McBean on his website I believe sells
a tension spring (trim assist) which pre-loads the control stick and really
does cure this ill...no more running out of trim w/the electric system, and
hands-off to stall works great. Give him a call. Cheers. Mike H.
--------
Luis Rodriguez
Model IV 1200
Rotax 912UL
Flying Weekly
Laurens, SC (34A)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=134974#134974
Message 18
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| Subject: | New subscriber-1st post-request for info |
From; Ernest Deel ernieandjane@naxs.net
Subject; Request for info;;
I am considering purchasing a KF IV Speedster (s/n JCS 137) project--no
FWF except Rotax engine mount. The plane had minor wing-tip and landing
gear damage from a high speed taxi incident and the engine was removed
for another project. I will want to convert to a tri-gear (nose wheel)
Are approved parts and plans available? From who and where? Is this a
complicated conversion? Requiring welding and reinforcement of fuselage
and/or firewall? And will I need to make a decision on which engine
before beginning work on the landing gear? A close-up picture or sketch
showing how the nose gear brackets are attached would be helpful. Will
this be considered a major airframe modification? and what kind of
"paper-work" and inspections will be required? (Although I built and
flew a Vari-Eze I do not have much expertise with tube and fabric or
welding) An opinion (guesstimate?) on cost will also be welcome.
Engines?? Possibly a Jabiru 2200? Just a couple days ago I saw from
www.compactradialengines.com an 85hp MZ-301 with about the best
power-weight-cost ratio numbers I have seen? Anybody know about or care
to comment on this engine (and the company?)
Any help, ideas, comments, will be welcome and greatly appreciated. Also
if anyone within a100 miles or so of Grundy VA (southwestern VA) has a
Kitfox (tri-gear or tail dgr) I would like a close up look at it. Thanks
again! Ernie
Ernest Deel
Rt 1 Box 349A
Vansant, VA 24656
276 859 0434
ernieandjane@naxs.net
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