Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:08 AM - Re: Trim Authority (crazyivan)
2. 02:57 AM - Re: Trim Authority (dave)
3. 04:41 AM - czech floats (Don & Dianne Usher)
4. 05:41 AM - Re: Marvel Oil (Herbert Doud)
5. 07:37 AM - Re: Marvel Oil (dave)
6. 08:06 AM - Re: Re: Trim Authority (Noel Loveys)
7. 08:22 AM - Re: New subscriber-1st post-request for info (jdmcbean)
8. 08:23 AM - Re: Re: Marvel Oil (Aerobatics@aol.com)
9. 08:57 AM - Re: Trim Authority (wingnut)
10. 08:59 AM - Re: New subscriber-1st post-request for info (Michael Gibbs)
11. 09:17 AM - Re: Marvel Oil (dave)
12. 09:22 AM - Re: Trim Authority (dave)
13. 09:38 AM - Re: Trim Authority (wingnut)
14. 09:48 AM - Re: Trim Authority (dave)
15. 03:21 PM - Re: czech floats (akflyer)
16. 07:52 PM - Re: Re: czech floats (Noel Loveys)
17. 08:24 PM - Re: Broken tailwheel spring- revelation (Lynn Matteson)
18. 09:00 PM - Re: New subscriber-1st post-request for info (Lynn Matteson)
19. 09:10 PM - Re: Broken tailwheel spring- revelation (Lynn Matteson)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Trim Authority |
Here's a theory that might help...get the vortex generators from www.landshorter.com and install them on the bottom of your horizontal stab. This should give your elevator more authority at lower speeds.
I have the same characteristics on my Model IV Speedster but probably not quite
as bad due to my shorter wing. I actually prefer to run out of trim on final
because I can better feel what the airplane is doing. It also forces me to fly
with the gentle touch and not be ham-handed.
--------
Dave
Speedster 912 UL
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=134991#134991
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Trim Authority |
Luis,
1200 feet runway plus trees at both end ? Well should be no problem fora Kitfox
Long wing. Biggest thing is to learn the skills and practice them to make this
easy for you. I would suggest practicing alot of slow flight at or a few mph
over stall speed until more comfortable plus with up to 20 degrees flaps.
Then Side slipping with and without flaps.
Find a grass strip about 2000 feet long with trees near you and try it in there
then go to a 1500 foot one. Then a 1200 foot one. You should be able to get
in and out of a 1200 foot strip pretty with no concerns after a while . Key is
slow approach in control. What speed indicated does your plane stall at ?
On mine I can approach at 45 to 50 mph and then sideslip down right to the ground,
then kick it straight. If you kick it too early on a long wing you will get
more float.
As far as trim, I have none. The Kitfox controls are so light It not a concern
for me.
this forum has some talk on VG testing that I have done over the last few weeks http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?t=31939
plus more here http://www.cfisher.com/vg.html
--------
Rotax Dealer, Ontario Canada
Flying Videos and Kitfox Info
http://www.cfisher.com/
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=135002#135002
Message 3
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I have a model 111, 582, on Full Lotus floats. Plane empty on wheels
weighs 496 lbs, I weigh 150. Not really happy with Full Lotus and have
to have amphibs. Looking to buy Czech amphibs. Anybody with this
combination? and if so, how is water performance with two people.
Thanks.
Don
Message 4
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Kitfoxers replying to my use and results of Marvel Mystery Oil.
As I've explained previously, I'm using the Marvel in my Rotax injection
system, mixed with my regular 2 cycle oil.
I add to 13 oz. of Penzoil, 2 cycle oil for air cooled engines, 2 oz.
of Marvel oil to the oil injection reservoir, which is a ratio of 50:1,
(2.5 oz. per gal of gas) of 2 cycle oil and 320:1,(.40 oz. per gal.) of
gas Marvel Oil. (Marvel's recommended ratio of oil to gas. 2 oz. per 5
gal. gas.) 13 oz. of Penzoil in the Rotax injection system, also treats
5 gal. gas.
I questioned the effect of Marvel in the only rubber (?) tubing,
carrying the oil fom the oil reservoir to the injection pump. I'm
keeping a close eye on that 6 inch tubing for any signs of
deterioration. There hasn't been any in over a year. I think the
very small and fragile needle end of rubber (?) on the end of the float
valve needle must be overly affected with it's tiny size, as compared to
the larger rubber (?) tubing.. If I see there is any sign of
deterioration in the tubing, I'll replace it with a plastic line,
possibly urethane.
For those folks, having no carbonization and a clean running engine, I
see no reason to make any changes. I
posted the subect for those Kitfoxers who may be having a dirty plug
problem, even with proper leaning and a desire to hopefully, keep
cleaner rings and a cleaner combustion chamber. It's worked for me
over the past 50 years, with antique cars, with engine break -in,
keeping clean combustion chambers and a smooth running lower end.
Marvel has been in business making the oil since 1925.. That's a very
long marketing time.
My NGK BR8ES, plugs in the Rotax, looked like new and still gapped at
.018 thousands, when I pulled them at 50 hours and would have gone much
longer, but since I had 'em out, I replaced 'em. As mentioned my ATV
plugs were fouling like crazy, before Marvel and clean after using
Marvel, but I had many float needle replacements, which stopped, when I
quit premixing Marvel in the ATV gas, so beware using Marvel for pre-mix
in the fuel tank. There's been no leaking of fuel in the Kitfox, since
I went to oil injection.
Many years ago, I talked with the Marvel folks about the make-up of
their product. They were naturally secretive, but after the discussion,
I gathered that Marvel was made up of a detergent solvent like Varsol,
such as we have been cleaning aircraft engines with, for years and a low
level carboning and lubricating grease, basically derrived from animal
fat.
I can only assume from the Kitfox plug and exhaust pipe cleanliness,
that the combustion chamber and rings would be cleaner as well, also
drawing on my past experience with old auto engines. Won't know for
certain 'till the teardown of my 582 Blue Head, which has about 150
hours to date.
Hopefully the foregoing might be of help for some of our group.
Herbert Doud
Kitfox IV / 582 Blue Head
New Braunfels, Tx
************************************************
and exhaust Time: 08:19:04 PM PST US
Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: Marvel Oil
From: "dave" <dave@cfisher.com>
Herbert , Thanks for the info.
I have never needed it in over 35 years of 2 strokes.
Did you know it made of Stoddard solvent, Mineral oil and Lard . ?
I get 150 hours out of my 582 on BR8ES solid tips that are pre
gapped .018 new. Pics here http://www.cfisher.com/152hournkg.html
Time: 08:19:04 PM PST US
Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: Marvel Oil
From: "dave" <dave@cfisher.com>
Herbert , Thanks for the info.
I have never needed it in over 35 years of 2 strokes.
Did you know it made of Stoddard solvent, Mineral oil and Lard . ?
I get 150 hours out of my 582 on BR8ES solid tips that are pre
gapped .018 new. Pics here http://www.cfisher.com/152hournkg.html
cleanliness and C
Kitfoxers replying to myTime: 07:35:39 AM PST US
From: Jim Corner <jcorner@shaw.ca>
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Bunches of stuff
Herbert.... I am thinking of adding Marvel to my 582 operation, are
you using straight Marvel in the injection system or are you adding
it to your regular injection oil? If so in what percentage?
Jim
Kitfox 2, 582,
1100+ hrs
Calgary AB
*****************************************
Time: 07:45:50 AM PST US
Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: Bunches of stuff
From: "dave" <dave@cfisher.com>
Can i ask why would you want to add it ?
I run easy past 300 hours using Bombardier XPS mineral oil and have no
reason to
need it so far ?
--------
Rotax Dealer, Ontario Canada
Flying Videos and Kitfox Info
http://www.cfisher.com/
******************************************
Time: 03:07:07 PM PST US
Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: Bunches of stuff
From: "dave" <dave@cfisher.com>
How many hours do you get out of your 582 plugs by using Marvel oil ?
how do you know your 582 is clean inside ?
Dave
--------
Rotax Dealer, Ontario Canada
Flying Videos and Kitfox Info
http://www.cfisher.com/
************************************************
Time: 05:28:29 PM PST US
From: "Andy Fultz" <andynfultz@bellsouth.net>
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Bunches of stuff
If the Mystery Oil is causing damage to the needle tips, I can't help
but
wonder what it's doing to the inside of your fuel lines and or oil
injection
lines?
Andy F.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Herbert Doud
Sent: Saturday, September 15, 2007 4:59 PM
To: Kitfox-List Digest Server
Subject: Kitfox-List: Bunches of stuff
************************************
Time: 08:19:04 PM PST US
Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: Marvel Oil
From: "dave" <dave@cfisher.com>
Herbert , Thanks for the info.
I have never needed it in over 35 years of 2 strokes.
Did you know it made of Stoddard solvent, Mineral oil and Lard . ?
I get 150 hours out of my 582 on BR8ES solid tips that are pre
gapped .018 new. Pics here http://www.cfisher.com/152hournkg.html
Message 5
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Herbert I respect your opinion and your success speaks for itself. That being
said what "would have " happened if you had not used it ?
I can point you fora few articles
http://www.math.uwaterloo.ca/~rblander/snake_oil.txt
Another one that describes the ingredients http://www.ntsb.gov/ntsb/brief2.asp?ev_id 020916X01610&ntsbno=NYC02LA181&akey=1
According to the FAA inspector, the additive that was added to the fuel was Marvel
Mystery Oil. An empty 1 gallon can of Marvel Mystery Oil was found in the
operator's trash. Instructions found on the can stated that the correct ratio
for mixing with fuel was 1 part additive to 100 parts fuel. The contents of Marvel
Mystery Oil were 74 percent mineral oil, 25 percent stoddard solvent, and
1 percent lard
>According to Lycoming Service Instruction No. 1014M, dated May 22, 1995, the use
of fuel additives was not recommended, and voided the engine warranty.
I don't think Rotax recommends it either.
--------
Rotax Dealer, Ontario Canada
Flying Videos and Kitfox Info
http://www.cfisher.com/
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=135036#135036
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Trim Authority |
To be honest I was wondering what all the talk about the elevator trim
was
about. My model III-A seems to trim out pretty well (not quite hands
off
but close) without any other springs, tabs, or bungee cords. I have
lots of
elevator control while landing on floats. Generally I touch down just
before the wing stops flying and the stick is almost all the way back.
In
next to calm conditions I expect the plane to be idle taxiing with in
three
hundred feet... It takes more space than that to get off at gross.
I have a tab installed on my rudder to take the work out of keeping
straight
at cruise. It works like a charm. The only thing is as you take off or
land you have to be on the rudder every second. I think a larger rudder
would be the only change I would make. I too like to use slips and that
little rudder just doesn't give me enough authority to pull a good slip
with
the pendulum effect of the floats.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of dave
> Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2007 7:27 AM
> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: Trim Authority
>
>
>
> Luis,
> 1200 feet runway plus trees at both end ? Well should be no
> problem fora Kitfox Long wing. Biggest thing is to learn the
> skills and practice them to make this easy for you. I would
> suggest practicing alot of slow flight at or a few mph over
> stall speed until more comfortable plus with up to 20 degrees
> flaps. Then Side slipping with and without flaps.
>
> Find a grass strip about 2000 feet long with trees near you
> and try it in there then go to a 1500 foot one. Then a 1200
> foot one. You should be able to get in and out of a 1200
> foot strip pretty with no concerns after a while . Key is
> slow approach in control. What speed indicated does your
> plane stall at ?
>
> On mine I can approach at 45 to 50 mph and then sideslip down
> right to the ground, then kick it straight. If you kick it
> too early on a long wing you will get more float.
>
> As far as trim, I have none. The Kitfox controls are so
> light It not a concern for me.
>
>
> this forum has some talk on VG testing that I have done over
> the last few weeks http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?t=31939
> plus more here http://www.cfisher.com/vg.html
>
> --------
> Rotax Dealer, Ontario Canada
> Flying Videos and Kitfox Info
> http://www.cfisher.com/
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=135002#135002
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | New subscriber-1st post-request for info |
Ernie,
We can help.. please feel free to contact us off list.
Fly Safe !!
John & Debra McBean
208.337.5111
www.kitfoxaircraft.com
"It's not how Fast... It's how Fun!"
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ernest and Jane
Deel
Sent: Monday, September 17, 2007 11:32 PM
Subject: Kitfox-List: New subscriber-1st post-request for info
From; Ernest Deel ernieandjane@naxs.net <mailto:ernieandjane@naxs.net>
Subject; Request for info;;
I am considering purchasing a KF IV Speedster (s/n JCS 137) project--no FWF
except Rotax engine mount. The plane had minor wing-tip and landing gear
damage from a high speed taxi incident and the engine was removed for
another project. I will want to convert to a tri-gear (nose wheel)
Are approved parts and plans available? >From who and where? Is this a
complicated conversion? Requiring welding and reinforcement of fuselage
and/or firewall? And will I need to make a decision on which engine before
beginning work on the landing gear? A close-up picture or sketch showing
how the nose gear brackets are attached would be helpful. Will this be
considered a major airframe modification? and what kind of "paper-work" and
inspections will be required? (Although I built and flew a Vari-Eze I do not
have much expertise with tube and fabric or welding) An opinion
(guesstimate?) on cost will also be welcome.
Engines?? Possibly a Jabiru 2200? Just a couple days ago I saw from
www.compactradialengines.com <http://www.compactradialengines.com> an 85hp
MZ-301 with about the best power-weight-cost ratio numbers I have seen?
Anybody know about or care to comment on this engine (and the company?)
Any help, ideas, comments, will be welcome and greatly appreciated. Also if
anyone within a100 miles or so of Grundy VA (southwestern VA) has a Kitfox
(tri-gear or tail dgr) I would like a close up look at it. Thanks again!
Ernie
Ernest Deel
Rt 1 Box 349A
Vansant, VA 24656
276 859 0434
ernieandjane@naxs.net <mailto:ernieandjane@naxs.net>
11:53 AM
Message 8
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So much controversy ...:-)
Being an individual, my experience would be limited what I can fly. When
Rotax looks at reliability, their view point is from many thousands of engines
over the years and who knows how many hours vs my 400 hrs. in my 582 Bluehead.
There are a few Rotax flyers at my field some are very opinionated based on
their experience... example...one owner says Amsol is the answer and so on.
I listen and respect their opinion, its all important data.
However, when Rotax recommends a certain RPM, EGT, even oil, that's my
starting point. My baseline. I will stick with that until someone can prove to
me
beyond the Rotax experience that there is a better way. Then I would be
willing to change.
Just seems to me a logical way of managing risk when we attempt to break the
bonds of earth!
Fly safe and enjoy
Dave
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Trim Authority |
Thanks for the tips guys. My Kitfox came with a VG kit that the previous owner
never got around to installing. I will try that first since it's something I already
have. If that doesn't work, I'll look at that spring assist.
No doubt that landing at my place will get easier with practice but while I'm learning,
I expect that it will help to be able to trim for hands off during final.
--------
Luis Rodriguez
Model IV 1200
Rotax 912UL
Flying Weekly
Laurens, SC (34A)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=135056#135056
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: New subscriber-1st post-request for info |
Ernest sez:
>I will want to convert to a tri-gear (nose wheel).
>
>Are approved parts and plans available? From who and where? Is this
>a complicated conversion? Requiring welding and reinforcement of
>fuselage and/or firewall? And will I need to make a decision on
>which engine before beginning work on the landing gear?
I think you are on your own as far as plans go, but the process isn't
rocket science. Some welding and reinforcement is required, but I
don't think the engine choice matters at this point unless you plan
to do something truly exotic.
You'll need a mounting plate welded to the tubing just behind the
firewall and you'll need to reinforce the tubing just behind the
seats. On mine, we did this by welding plates between the tubes, as
shown in the attached photos.
The nosewheel assembly was supplied by the factory and the main gear
is from Grove.
Hope this is helpful,
Mike G.
N728KF
Phoenix, AZ
Message 11
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Dave, for reference Rotax does recommend oil with a API-TC rating .
Pennzoil for Air cooled is a popular choice but so is Bombardier XPS mineral
oil. I buy it in bulk. XPS is popular with Ski doo sleds and SeaDoo jet skis
as well. It is made by Castrol and a little bit better than Castrol Super 2
stroke but the supper 2 stroke is still a good choice. I do use the Super 2 stroke
in my RV bottle just so that I can see it easier as it is blue.
There is much controversy over oils whether it be synthetic or mineral oil . But
the key is the API-TC rating. You see outboard oil is TCW rated like TC W3
but outboards have different operating parameters that we do.
If you want to get on synthetics, my rule is if you don't run you engine a few
times a week then it is more likely to have a bearing issue than a Mineral oil
user. I have no problem selling Rotax cranks for $1200 to $1500 each so feel
free to llet them rust.
As far as additives like Marvel oil well that is a personal preference and some
swear by it. I can show you my last 3 582's than went well over 300 hours with
nothing but XPS oil and they ran fine.
--------
Rotax Dealer, Ontario Canada
Flying Videos and Kitfox Info
http://www.cfisher.com/
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=135062#135062
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Trim Authority |
Luis, I don;t think you will find the VGs will be a better solution than perfecting
your short field skills . Take a few days when calm in the AM or before
dark and do at least 10 circuits each time to try to hone your skills.
I have a you tube video here http://www.cfisher.com/vg.html that at the end shows side slipping down to the ground over 80 foot trees . to land short over obstacles you will need to excel at side slipping and slow flight.
--------
Rotax Dealer, Ontario Canada
Flying Videos and Kitfox Info
http://www.cfisher.com/
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=135064#135064
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Trim Authority |
I agree. No substitute for practice. I do it every chance I get. On the other hand,
if there's some gizmo out there that makes the airplane a little easier to
handle in certain situations, then that doesn't hurt either. Trimming the airplane
for neutral stick pressure during final was part of my training and makes
good sense to me. I don't see any advantage in having to hold back pressure
during the approach.
> Luis, I don;t think you will find the VGs will be a better solution than perfecting
your short field skills . Take a few days when calm in the AM or before
dark and do at least 10 circuits each time to try to hone your skills.
--------
Luis Rodriguez
Model IV 1200
Rotax 912UL
Flying Weekly
Laurens, SC (34A)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=135067#135067
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Trim Authority |
Luis, Most of my flying is 500 agl or so and away from airports. Alot of base
legs might be only at 100 agl or so so my trim is not needed as much when at
1000 agl airport circuits.
But for sure practice it all.......... and especially forced approaches as one
never knows when you might have to find a spot to land with little notice.
--------
Rotax Dealer, Ontario Canada
Flying Videos and Kitfox Info
http://www.cfisher.com/
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=135072#135072
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: czech floats |
is there a particular reason that you dont like the full-lotus floats? Are you
by any chance using the skystar rigging? I was not real happy with the full
lotus on the KF using the original skystar rigging till I changed the step position
and the angle of incidence on the wing.. now it is a fun machine that will
go some amazing places.
--------
Leonard Perry
Soldotna AK
Avid "C" / Mk IV
582 IVO IFA
Full Lotus 1260
95% complete
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=135146#135146
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: czech floats |
What were your new figures on the step and the incidence??
Noel
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of akflyer
> Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2007 7:51 PM
> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: czech floats
>
>
>
> is there a particular reason that you dont like the
> full-lotus floats? Are you by any chance using the skystar
> rigging? I was not real happy with the full lotus on the KF
> using the original skystar rigging till I changed the step
> position and the angle of incidence on the wing.. now it is a
> fun machine that will go some amazing places.
>
> --------
> Leonard Perry
> Soldotna AK
> Avid "C" / Mk IV
> 582 IVO IFA
> Full Lotus 1260
> 95% complete
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=135146#135146
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Broken tailwheel spring- revelation |
Call John or Debra McBean at Kitfox Aircraft, LLC, or just stay tuned
in here, and John or Debra will answer your question.
Lynn Matteson
Grass Lake, Michigan
Kitfox IV Speedster w/Jabiru 2200
flying w/400+ hrs
do not archive
On Sep 17, 2007, at 8:39 PM, Steve Shinabery wrote:
>
> Too Lynn Matteson: where can I get the triple leaf??I too only
> have single leaf.and it all ready broke once on this plane.I want
> to up date it all so.can U tell me where to go for this??Steve
> Shinabery,N554KF, KF2 582 gray head,,,St.Marys Ohio
>
> Mike Chaney wrote:
>> Would a metal tube shaped like a C attached right in front of the
>> tail wheel spring serve as a stop to prevent damage in the event
>> of a tail wheel spring break? This could resemble the skid used
>> on the d tail wheel planes.
>> Mike Chaney
>>
>> */Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt@jps.net>/* wrote:
>>
>>
>> Not so fast there, Michel...when I broke my 2-leaf (main and
>> helper/
>> booster/whatever) I still got a bit of rash on my rudder
>> because the
>> tailwheel flopped around a bit and the rear of the plane
>> dropped down
>> to be SUPPORTED by the helper leaf (as it dragged along in the
>> dirt),
>> but the tailwheel could STILL cause you damage because it is no
>> longer held in position by anything. You could still break
>> your main
>> leaf and cause damage to the plane without the rudder actually
>> hitting the ground. With the new three-leaf spring, there are two
>> main leafs that have to break before the above scenario would
>> happen.
>> My 2-leaf spring broke at about the 450 or so landings mark, and
>> based on metallurgy, your new one may go before or after that.
>> I had
>> 43 pounds on my tail during weighing. I bought the 3-leaf model
>> because it is a safety feature, not because I needed a stiffer
>> spring.
>> Taking this whole safety/stiffness thing a bit further, one might
>> conclude that if a spring were to be made of 1/8" (3mm)
>> leaves, one
>> could use maybe four leaves that are all held by the current two
>> bolts, that maybe a softer ride would result, and the safety
>> margin
>> would be much greater.
>>
>>
>> Lynn Matteson
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: New subscriber-1st post-request for info |
Call me a relic, but I personally can't see why anyone would take a
perfectly good 'fox IV Speedster tailwheel plane and muck (sp?) it up
by going to a nosewheel! I think you need to ask yourself why you
want to convert....lack of tailwheel experience? Get trained. Is it
because the person who caused the wing-tip and gear damage blamed it
on the tailwheel? Maybe they needed training. Insurance writers don't
like/understand t'wheels? Might be something to that. Tailwheels have
been around since day one...well, maybe day two, but they are
learnable. Take it from a 70-yr old, who learned in a tailwheel
Kitfox...my own...at age 69.
As to your other decision...the engine....more and more people are
going to Jabiru...'nuf said.
Lynn Matteson
Grass Lake, Michigan
Kitfox IV Speedster w/Jabiru 2200
flying w/400+ hrs
On Sep 18, 2007, at 1:32 AM, Ernest and Jane Deel wrote:
> From; Ernest Deel ernieandjane@naxs.net
> Subject; Request for info;;
>
> I am considering purchasing a KF IV Speedster (s/n JCS 137)
> project--no FWF except Rotax engine mount. The plane had minor wing-
> tip and landing gear damage from a high speed taxi incident and the
> engine was removed for another project. I will want to convert to a
> tri-gear (nose wheel)
>
> Are approved parts and plans available? >From who and where? Is
> this a complicated conversion? Requiring welding and reinforcement
> of fuselage and/or firewall? And will I need to make a decision on
> which engine before beginning work on the landing gear? A close-up
> picture or sketch showing how the nose gear brackets are attached
> would be helpful. Will this be considered a major airframe
> modification? and what kind of "paper-work" and inspections will be
> required? (Although I built and flew a Vari-Eze I do not have much
> expertise with tube and fabric or welding) An opinion
> (guesstimate?) on cost will also be welcome.
>
> Engines?? Possibly a Jabiru 2200? Just a couple days ago I saw from
> www.compactradialengines.com an 85hp MZ-301 with about the best
> power-weight-cost ratio numbers I have seen? Anybody know about or
> care to comment on this engine (and the company?)
>
> Any help, ideas, comments, will be welcome and greatly appreciated.
> Also if anyone within a100 miles or so of Grundy VA (southwestern
> VA) has a Kitfox (tri-gear or tail dgr) I would like a close up
> look at it. Thanks again! Ernie
>
> Ernest Deel
> Rt 1 Box 349A
> Vansant, VA 24656
> 276 859 0434
> ernieandjane@naxs.net
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List_-
> ============================================================ _-
> forums.matronics.com_-
> ===========================================================
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Broken tailwheel spring- revelation |
It might, but you've still got the tailwheel flopping around back
there, possibly causing some damage. Better (in my opinion) to do
something to prevent...as much as possible...the breakage in the
first place. By going to the three-piece spring, you will have two
main leaves, thus giving you 100% redundancy....the chances of
breaking both main leaves at the same time, thus putting the t'wheel
into "flop mode" are pretty slim, I would think. And if you slam it
down hard enough to do that, you've got other issues to deal with
other than a little rash on the rudder.
Lynn Matteson
Grass Lake, Michigan
Kitfox IV Speedster w/Jabiru 2200
flying w/400+ hrs
On Sep 17, 2007, at 4:24 PM, Mike Chaney wrote:
> Would a metal tube shaped like a C attached right in front of the
> tail wheel spring serve as a stop to prevent damage in the event of
> a tail wheel spring break? This could resemble the skid used on
> the d tail wheel planes.
>
> Mike Chaney
>
> Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt@jps.net> wrote:
>
> Not so fast there, Michel...when I broke my 2-leaf (main and helper/
> booster/whatever) I still got a bit of rash on my rudder because the
> tailwheel flopped around a bit and the rear of the plane dropped down
> to be SUPPORTED by the helper leaf (as it dragged along in the dirt),
> but the tailwheel could STILL cause you damage because it is no
> longer held in position by anything. You could still break your main
> leaf and cause damage to the plane without the rudder actually
> hitting the ground. With the new three-leaf spring, there are two
> main leafs that have to break before the above scenario would happen.
> My 2-leaf spring broke at about the 450 or so landings mark, and
> based on metallurgy, your new one may go before or after that. I had
> 43 pounds on my tail during weighing. I bought the 3-leaf model
> because it is a safety feature, not because I needed a stiffer spring.
> Taking this whole safety/stiffness thing a bit further, one might
> conclude that if a spring were to be made of 1/8" (3mm) leaves, one
> could use maybe four leaves that are all held by the current two
> bolts, that maybe a softer ride would result, and the safety margin
> would be much greater.
>
>
> Lynn Matteson
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