Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:32 AM - Polybrush help!!! (wadegreaves)
2. 03:17 AM - Re: Current events/ski story (dave)
3. 05:19 AM - Re: Wing Tank Fuel Finger Strainers (W Duke)
4. 05:36 AM - Re: Re: Current events/ski story (Lynn Matteson)
5. 05:46 AM - Re: Polybrush help!!! (Lynn Matteson)
6. 05:56 AM - Re: Wing Tank Fuel Finger Strainers (Michel Verheughe)
7. 06:12 AM - Re: Polybrush help!!! (Dee Young)
8. 06:44 AM - Re: Polybrush help!!! (Donroutledge@aol.com)
9. 07:48 AM - Re: Reality check, it is time (Noel Loveys)
10. 07:54 AM - Re: Wing Tank Fuel Finger Strainers (Lynn Matteson)
11. 11:25 AM - Re: Current events/ski story (84KF)
12. 11:37 AM - Re: Wing Tank Fuel Finger Strainers (paul wilson)
13. 01:43 PM - Re: Wing Tank Fuel Finger Strainers (Marco Menezes)
14. 02:54 PM - Re: Wing Tank Fuel Finger Strainers (Jimmie Blackwell)
15. 04:55 PM - Re: Wing Tank Fuel Finger Strainers (Ron Zeppin)
16. 04:59 PM - Re: Polybrush help!!! (Michael Logan)
17. 06:25 PM - Re: Polybrush help!!! (mdkitfox@aol.com)
18. 07:20 PM - Re: Polybrush help!!! (John Alexander)
19. 07:54 PM - Re: Polybrush help!!! ()
20. 08:01 PM - Re: Wing Tank Fuel Finger Strainers (Tom Jones)
21. 08:25 PM - Greetings... (Ron Zeppin)
22. 09:03 PM - Re: Reality check, it is time (GONER752@aol.com)
23. 09:18 PM - Re: Wing Tank Fuel Finger Strainers (bjones@dmv.com)
24. 09:32 PM - Re: Kitfox construction ()
Message 1
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| Subject: | Polybrush help!!! |
I am lost!
I got my spray equipment up to par with a filter/water trap. Have plenty of line
and a good HVLP gun. Thinned my polybrush out with 65-75 (3:1). Gun sprays
nice and smooth. I clean the surface with MEK to ensure there is no contaminants....
Then I spray the fabric and it literally looks like water on a well sealed deck.
Doesn't want to settle smoothly. It will bead up into blobs here and there.
Could this be due to low air temperature? That's the only think I can think of.
It is cold here in Oregon right now...in the 30s. I am heating my hangar up
to probably about 50 or so. The minds at the field seem to think that low temps
and spraying polybrush is fine.
I bought a JP-4 powered forced air heater to get my hangar toasty and am hoping
that the warmer air will eliminate this problem.
Anyone else heard of or observed this odd behavior? (not mine...the polybrush's)
Any advice would be great....losing it over here! [Evil or Very Mad]
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=156727#156727
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Current events/ski story |
Lynn for reference use,
I had a friend build a pair of skis last year out of plywood and over laid with
glass at my shop. When he brought them out I said I think it has a pretty steep
angle on the nose of ski but he thought it would be ok. Well he finished them
and they looked great. Took him an hour to put them on and rug the cables
and bungees but when he started to taxi the noses dug in. Took him 2 hours
to dig the plane out and get back to hangar.
Not to run his nose in it I taxing mine repeatedly through his ruts and where he
got stuck to show him that the ones that I have did in fact work better and
not dig it with a shallower tip angle.
I am just pointing out how critical this was to him and hopefully as other have
pointed out to "help others gain form the experience of others" with the use
of this forum.
--------
Rotax Dealer, Ontario Canada
Flying Videos and Kitfox Info
http://www.cfisher.com/
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=156734#156734
Message 3
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| Subject: | Wing Tank Fuel Finger Strainers |
Along this thread: Has anyone found any problems when they checked. What type
of fuel do they run and at how many hours? I admit to not having checked mine.
I am not sure I can get them out without cutting into the butt rib.
Maxwell S6/TD/IO240
Rick <wingsdown@verizon.net> wrote:
I made that part of my annual. Good thing to check for sure. Should seal
without any sealants, but don't guess it could hurt unless your one of
those anal weight types. :)
Rick
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
jimmieblackwell@austin.rr.com
Sent: 2008-01-07 12:37
Subject: Kitfox-List: Wing Tank Fuel Finger Strainers
My Kitfox was originally built in 1994. So, I think it is about time to
remove and check the finger strainers in the wing tanks. Has anyone on
the list removed their finger strainers from the fiberglass wing tanks
and if so are there any issues of concern getting the strainers out
without damaging the tank threads?
Jimmie
---------------------------------
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Current events/ski story |
Mine now have a 2-stage angle on the front...the recent 8 bend (I
call it the Mother Nature bend), and the original approx. 45 angle.
This allowed them to get through the snow rather well, with the 12-
inch width of the "shoe." Were his narrower than yours? Was his tip
bend short in height? How about the length from the axle pivot to the
tip? A shorter dimension here could affect his ability to climb over
the snow, I would think, especially with a steep tip angle.
Lynn Matteson
Grass Lake, Michigan
Kitfox IV Speedster w/Jabiru 2200
flying w/450+ hrs
On Jan 8, 2008, at 6:16 AM, dave wrote:
>
> Lynn for reference use,
>
> I had a friend build a pair of skis last year out of plywood and
> over laid with glass at my shop. When he brought them out I said I
> think it has a pretty steep angle on the nose of ski but he thought
> it would be ok. Well he finished them and they looked great.
> Took him an hour to put them on and rug the cables and bungees but
> when he started to taxi the noses dug in. Took him 2 hours to dig
> the plane out and get back to hangar.
>
> Not to run his nose in it I taxing mine repeatedly through his ruts
> and where he got stuck to show him that the ones that I have did in
> fact work better and not dig it with a shallower tip angle.
>
> I am just pointing out how critical this was to him and hopefully
> as other have pointed out to "help others gain form the experience
> of others" with the use of this forum.
>
> --------
> Rotax Dealer, Ontario Canada
> Flying Videos and Kitfox Info
> http://www.cfisher.com/
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=156734#156734
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Polybrush help!!! |
I did all my spraying at the suggested 70F or higher...their
warnings: DON'T SPRAY BELOW 55!.....DON'T SPRAY ABOVE 95 OR IN HIGH
HUMIDITY!...Have "the minds at the field" used Poly-Fiber products
before? Most folks that I talked to around here about using PF
products were surprised at the restrictions that PF suggests for
spraying/using their products. I did all of my covering work between
Dec 2004 and May 2005 in a heated pole barn in Michigan, using a
dehumidifier inside the paint booth (draped plastic sheeting) when
humidity was high and a water-soaked floor when it got too low. Did
you "thoroughly scrub the fabric with MEK or reducer" with a clean
rag? They get real specific here. Did you brush on the first coat of
Poly-brush?
I was just reading the instructions over and I noticed: "After
scrubbing the fabric with MEK or reducer, follow by passing a tack
rag over the surface to pick up any dust or lint."
I've always worried about using a tack rag too soon after washing the
surface with a solvent, thinking that the solvent, if not evaporated,
might pick up something from the tack rag.
That's all I can think of for now.
Lynn Matteson
Grass Lake, Michigan
Kitfox IV Speedster w/Jabiru 2200
flying w/450+ hrs
On Jan 8, 2008, at 3:30 AM, wadegreaves wrote:
> <reinagreaves@comcast.net>
>
> I am lost!
>
> I got my spray equipment up to par with a filter/water trap. Have
> plenty of line and a good HVLP gun. Thinned my polybrush out with
> 65-75 (3:1). Gun sprays nice and smooth. I clean the surface with
> MEK to ensure there is no contaminants....
>
> Then I spray the fabric and it literally looks like water on a well
> sealed deck. Doesn't want to settle smoothly. It will bead up
> into blobs here and there.
>
> Could this be due to low air temperature? That's the only think I
> can think of. It is cold here in Oregon right now...in the 30s. I
> am heating my hangar up to probably about 50 or so. The minds at
> the field seem to think that low temps and spraying polybrush is fine.
> I bought a JP-4 powered forced air heater to get my hangar toasty
> and am hoping that the warmer air will eliminate this problem.
> Anyone else heard of or observed this odd behavior? (not mine...the
> polybrush's)
>
> Any advice would be great....losing it over here! [Evil or Very Mad]
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=156727#156727
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Wing Tank Fuel Finger Strainers |
While on the subject; I have no reason to believe I have problems with my finger
strainers but ... it could be nice to check that are not halv cloted, right?
But I don't really want to remove them. Isn't it possible to suck fuel from the
refueling cap side and hold a hose close to the strainer to see if some dirty
stuff of particles is being sucked? Has anyone tried that?
Cheers,
Michel Verheughe
Norway
Kitfox 3 - Jabiru 2200
<pre><b><font size=2 color="#000000" face="courier new,courier">
</b></font></pre></body></html>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Polybrush help!!! |
It seems like I recall something about application needs to be done
above 70 deg. Not sure what would happen if its colder, doesn't seem
like it should act like your describing. When I first read your post on
the poly spray it occurred to me that maybe you have a timed out batch
too. Just a couple of thoughts.
Dee Young
Model II
N345DY
Do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: wadegreaves<mailto:reinagreaves@comcast.net>
To: kitfox-list@matronics.com<mailto:kitfox-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 08, 2008 1:30 AM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Polybrush help!!!
<reinagreaves@comcast.net<mailto:reinagreaves@comcast.net>>
I am lost!
I got my spray equipment up to par with a filter/water trap. Have
plenty of line and a good HVLP gun. Thinned my polybrush out with 65-75
(3:1). Gun sprays nice and smooth. I clean the surface with MEK to
ensure there is no contaminants....
Then I spray the fabric and it literally looks like water on a well
sealed deck. Doesn't want to settle smoothly. It will bead up into
blobs here and there.
Could this be due to low air temperature? That's the only think I can
think of. It is cold here in Oregon right now...in the 30s. I am
heating my hangar up to probably about 50 or so. The minds at the field
seem to think that low temps and spraying polybrush is fine.
I bought a JP-4 powered forced air heater to get my hangar toasty and
am hoping that the warmer air will eliminate this problem.
Anyone else heard of or observed this odd behavior? (not mine...the
polybrush's)
Any advice would be great....losing it over here! [Evil or Very Mad]
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=156727#156727<http://forums
matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=156727#156727>
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List<http://www.matronics.com/N
avigator?Kitfox-List>
http://www.matronics.com/contribution<http://www.matronics.com/contributi
on>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Polybrush help!!! |
I used to paint automobiles in a similar environment. Your shop is not warm
enough and therefor the surface you are painting is also too cool.. However,
one trick I used was to heat the paint. I would set a bucket of water on top
of the stove and set my paint can in that hot water bath. When the gun was
empty just fill with the pre-warmed paint and shoot.(tie a little bib around
the paint can so the water doesn't run off the can and into your paint gun). You
may also want to use a drop or two of anti-fisheye. Let us know how you
solve the problem. Don, KF+/subie/Tn
In a message dated 1/8/2008 2:33:20 A.M. Central Standard Time,
reinagreaves@comcast.net writes:
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "wadegreaves" <reinagreaves@comcast.net>
I am lost!
I got my spray equipment up to par with a filter/water trap. Have plenty of
line and a good HVLP gun. Thinned my polybrush out with 65-75 (3:1). Gun
sprays nice and smooth. I clean the surface with MEK to ensure there is no
contaminants....
Then I spray the fabric and it literally looks like water on a well sealed
deck. Doesn't want to settle smoothly. It will bead up into blobs here and
there.
Could this be due to low air temperature? That's the only think I can think
of. It is cold here in Oregon right now...in the 30s. I am heating my
hangar up to probably about 50 or so. The minds at the field seem to think that
low temps and spraying polybrush is fine.
I bought a JP-4 powered forced air heater to get my hangar toasty and am
hoping that the warmer air will eliminate this problem.
Anyone else heard of or observed this odd behavior? (not mine...the
polybrush's)
Any advice would be great....losing it over here! [Evil or Very Mad]
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=156727#156727
**************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape.
http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489
Message 9
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| Subject: | Reality check, it is time |
For those living south of the 49th... (most of the group) Red Green is the
lead character in a Canadian comedy show. He runs a lodge, Possum Lodge,
where I assume, actually fishing would be a little too close to work for
comfort. The lodge motto, written in Latin roughly translates to, "Play
dead". The end of every program shows the start of the lodge meeting where
the man's creed is repeated. I'm a man, I can change, If I have to.... I
GUESS....
He drives an old Dodge van mostly held together with, you guessed it duct
tape which he lovingly refers to as the handy man's secret weapon. Every
week he has a segment of his show where he constructs some gizmo or the
other with the "Secret Weapon" which of course never works. These projects
are well beyond reinstalling rear view mirrors with duct tape.... There was
patio furniture, several winches which involve swiped car wheels from a
competing lodge.
For those of us who like to fly he has a friend, Buzz, the original space
cadet, who flies a C180 wreck on floats. Doors were lost in the great flood
and Red usually gets out of actually getting into the plane.
Every show has a pseudo editorial which ends with the phrase
"Keep your stick on the ice, I'm pulling for you."
Noel
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of john oakley
Sent: Tuesday, January 08, 2008 1:08 AM
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Reality check, it is time
Noel, thanks, I just can't seem to get it right. :-) I know who is using
duct tape now.... :-)
John Oakley
Loving my kitfox 4 speedster in saltlake
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Noel Loveys
Sent: Monday, January 07, 2008 8:18 PM
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Reality check, it is time
John:
It's," I'm a man, I can change, if I have to... I guess...
Noel
III-A getting four stroke power.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of john oakley
Sent: Monday, January 07, 2008 12:20 PM
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Reality check, it is time
"Much to the dismay of our moderator, this has nothing to do with Kitfox. (I
like to do that sometimes) Without this, there is no group."
Albert,
Our moderators have forgotten what the list is about. We have one who does
not want any friendship on the list and one who is king, he knows more than
anyone and will argue for page after page to prove it. I have thought hard
about quitting the list but like many us of feel we need the list for us and
the new builders, the experience's and energy behind this size group is
nothing to waste.
I have been on the list since 92, I have built 2 kitfox, I have flown 8
different fox, dozens of other aircraft including war birds and heavy's. I
hoped my experiences have helped someone. I know at least one person that
was on the list what may have saved my life, pulling my cowl and pointing
out the broken motor mount. Every year I try to complete some update to the
bird, usually using information found on the list. I salute all of you who
have helped someone through a problem or a question. Please continue to help
john and Debra continue their work. If you need a part give john and chance
to provide it, at least ask if he can match the price. We need john to
continue the line, this well help the pricing and continue the legacy that
Dan Denny started building in his garage twenty five years ago. With 15
years on the list, I guess you could call it a habit, I guess I can break
the habit if I have to "I am a man and can change if I have to" (red-green)
John Oakley
Speedster 4 long and short wings
912 ul with cap
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Wing Tank Fuel Finger Strainers |
Maybe some enterprising young man with all sorts of testing equipment
and ability...Lowell, are you listening?...could do a test of the
amount of fuel that the finger strainers will pass. Maybe using a
cut-away tank. This info could be a start towards at least gaining
some insight to what is needed for flow. Of course, if the original
builder actually DID a flow check as suggested, and that info is
available to the subsequent owner (if that is the case), this would
help. I know that there are entirely too many variables at work here,
but it'll get people thinking.
Lynn Matteson
Grass Lake, Michigan
Kitfox IV Speedster w/Jabiru 2200
flying w/450+ hrs
On Jan 8, 2008, at 8:46 AM, Michel Verheughe wrote:
> While on the subject; I have no reason to believe I have problems
> with my finger strainers but ... it could be nice to check that are
> not halv cloted, right? But I don't really want to remove them.
> Isn't it possible to suck fuel from the refueling cap side and hold
> a hose close to the strainer to see if some dirty stuff of
> particles is being sucked? Has anyone tried that?
>
> Cheers,
> Michel Verheughe
> Norway
> Kitfox 3 - Jabiru 2200
>
>
> <pre><b><font size=2 color="#000000" face="courier new,courier">
>
> List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List</a>
> forums.matronics.com</a>
> www.matronics.com/contribution</a>
>
> </b></font></pre>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Current events/ski story |
Lynn,
I've installed a number of FAA PMA approved preheaters on misc. Continental
and Lycoming engines, mostly the "Tanis" systems. These consist of heat pads
that are siliconed to the oil tank, or sump, and may include individual
heating elements that are attached to the individual cylinders in various
ways.
For some reason, I recall , probably from their advertising literature, that
the main concern was not to allow f a "hot spot" to develope at the tank or
sump from high,unregulated, heater pad temperture. They went on to explain
how their "systems" were thermostatically" controled to prevent this,
maintaining a mild, constant heat point, so as not to allow the oil to
"coke", which I THINK means "burn". They aslo "warned" about the "dipstick
heaters", again, they would get much to hot, at the stick itself, and break
down the oil.in contact with it. A unusual change in oil colour, with traces
of black soot\sludge mixed in might indicate "coking" at a hot spot.
Another concern, again paraphrased, was condesation developing in a
constanaly changing enviroment inside a tank\sump\engine if a consistant
ambiant temp is not maintained over a long period of time due to irregular
thermostat control.
These are just things I remember hearing\reading about. I couldn't prove or
disprove any of them personally.
I would think any pad\element that is not allowed to run wild is fine.
This is just second hand, old memory, heresay, but the concept is sound.
At the time, a Tannis would run about $150.00, but one could get a
automotive style oil pan heater from J.C.Whitney for $15.00. Both would do
the same, but only one was " FAA Approved". for installation on Certificated
aircraft and naturally, Tanis wanted one to buy their products.
Steve Benesh
84KF
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Wing Tank Fuel Finger Strainers |
My take is that if the gravity flow from the tank meets your needs or
the guidelines from the FAA then removal should not be necessary. Its
not rocket science. Seems like a simple test could be conducted when
the flex hose - strainer to the header is replaced annually it would
be pretty easy to do a flow test once the details are worked out of
emptying the tank refilling etc. With all that trouble then removing
and examining might be easier. I would not worry about the threads as
they can easily be repaired or the next size adapter can be used. If
the wing closeout blocks removal then mod is required to access the plumbing.
Check the archives for the unusual attitude gravity flow test
discussion. It was discussed extensively and had inputs from some
knowledgeable fuel system people.
For the guys that are in the construction phase, please do the flow
test and make the strainer accessible.
Regards, Paul
===============
At 06:51 AM 1/8/2008, you wrote:
>
>Maybe some enterprising young man with all sorts of testing equipment
>and ability...Lowell, are you listening?...could do a test of the
>amount of fuel that the finger strainers will pass. Maybe using a
>cut-away tank. This info could be a start towards at least gaining
>some insight to what is needed for flow. Of course, if the original
>builder actually DID a flow check as suggested, and that info is
>available to the subsequent owner (if that is the case), this would
>help. I know that there are entirely too many variables at work here,
>but it'll get people thinking.
>
>Lynn Matteson
>Grass Lake, Michigan
>Kitfox IV Speedster w/Jabiru 2200
>flying w/450+ hrs
>
>
>On Jan 8, 2008, at 8:46 AM, Michel Verheughe wrote:
>
>>While on the subject; I have no reason to believe I have problems
>>with my finger strainers but ... it could be nice to check that are
>>not halv cloted, right? But I don't really want to remove them.
>>Isn't it possible to suck fuel from the refueling cap side and hold
>>a hose close to the strainer to see if some dirty stuff of
>>particles is being sucked? Has anyone tried that?
>>
>>Cheers,
>>Michel Verheughe
>>Norway
>>Kitfox 3 - Jabiru 2200
>>
>>
>><pre><b><font size=2 color="#000000" face="courier new,courier">
>>
>>List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List</a>
>>forums.matronics.com</a>
>>www.matronics.com/contribution</a>
>>
>></b></font></pre>
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Wing Tank Fuel Finger Strainers |
Maxwell -
The mesh in those strainers is pretty big. It's a bit like they're designed to
keep mice from clogging your fuel system. If fuel is flowing freely and you're
not finding smaller stuff in downstream filters/traps, it's a solid bet finger
strainers are clean.
I remove and inspect mine annually with no problem. I wouldn't if it meant cutting
tho. Have never found anything in them. I burn 93 octane auto.
W Duke <n981ms@yahoo.com> wrote:
Along this thread: Has anyone found any problems when they checked. What
type of fuel do they run and at how many hours? I admit to not having checked
mine. I am not sure I can get them out without cutting into the butt rib.
Maxwell S6/TD/IO240
Rick <wingsdown@verizon.net> wrote:
I made that part of my annual. Good thing to check for sure. Should seal
without any sealants, but don't guess it could hurt unless your one of
those anal weight types. :)
Rick
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
jimmieblackwell@austin.rr.com
Sent: 2008-01-07 12:37
Marco Menezes
Model 2 582 N99KX
---------------------------------
Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage.
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Wing Tank Fuel Finger Strainers |
Wow! Lots of good ideas here, but now I am really wondering if I might be
able to see them with some sort of mirror or small camera without removing
them. Would sure be helpful to know if anyone has found restrictions on the
strainers when they removed them and as someone else suggested a report on
kind of fuel used if a restrictions was found.
Jimmie
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lynn Matteson" <lynnmatt@jps.net>
Sent: Tuesday, January 08, 2008 8:51 AM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Wing Tank Fuel Finger Strainers
>
> Maybe some enterprising young man with all sorts of testing equipment and
> ability...Lowell, are you listening?...could do a test of the amount of
> fuel that the finger strainers will pass. Maybe using a cut-away tank.
> This info could be a start towards at least gaining some insight to what
> is needed for flow. Of course, if the original builder actually DID a
> flow check as suggested, and that info is available to the subsequent
> owner (if that is the case), this would help. I know that there are
> entirely too many variables at work here, but it'll get people thinking.
>
> Lynn Matteson
> Grass Lake, Michigan
> Kitfox IV Speedster w/Jabiru 2200
> flying w/450+ hrs
>
>
> On Jan 8, 2008, at 8:46 AM, Michel Verheughe wrote:
>
>> While on the subject; I have no reason to believe I have problems with
>> my finger strainers but ... it could be nice to check that are not halv
>> cloted, right? But I don't really want to remove them. Isn't it possible
>> to suck fuel from the refueling cap side and hold a hose close to the
>> strainer to see if some dirty stuff of particles is being sucked? Has
>> anyone tried that?
>>
>> Cheers,
>> Michel Verheughe
>> Norway
>> Kitfox 3 - Jabiru 2200
>>
>>
>> <pre><b><font size=2 color="#000000" face="courier new,courier">
>>
>> List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List</a>
>> forums.matronics.com</a>
>> www.matronics.com/contribution</a>
>>
>> </b></font></pre>
>
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Wing Tank Fuel Finger Strainers |
Hi All... I'm new to the Kitfox forums, but thought I might add to the
discussion...
Harbor Freight has bore scopes for $170... It's a bit on the pricey
side, but I would imagine there are all sorts of
other uses you could find for it besides checking the finger strainers.
I would think you'd get a much
better idea on the strainers condition using a bore scope than a mirror,
but you're also looking
at a more expensive idea.
Harbor Freight has two different ones, almost a $100 difference in
price. The one for $170 is here...
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=94958
It even comes with a 'periscope' attachment for looking at 90 degrees to
the axis instead of straight ahead.
Ron
Jimmie Blackwell wrote:
> <JimmieBlackwell@austin.rr.com>
>
> Wow! Lots of good ideas here, but now I am really wondering if I
> might be able to see them with some sort of mirror or small camera
> without removing them. Would sure be helpful to know if anyone has
> found restrictions on the strainers when they removed them and as
> someone else suggested a report on kind of fuel used if a restrictions
> was found.
>
> Jimmie
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Lynn Matteson" <lynnmatt@jps.net>
> To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, January 08, 2008 8:51 AM
> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Wing Tank Fuel Finger Strainers
>
>
>>
>> Maybe some enterprising young man with all sorts of testing
>> equipment and ability...Lowell, are you listening?...could do a test
>> of the amount of fuel that the finger strainers will pass. Maybe
>> using a cut-away tank. This info could be a start towards at least
>> gaining some insight to what is needed for flow. Of course, if the
>> original builder actually DID a flow check as suggested, and that
>> info is available to the subsequent owner (if that is the case),
>> this would help. I know that there are entirely too many variables
>> at work here, but it'll get people thinking.
>>
>> Lynn Matteson
>> Grass Lake, Michigan
>> Kitfox IV Speedster w/Jabiru 2200
>> flying w/450+ hrs
>>
>>
>> On Jan 8, 2008, at 8:46 AM, Michel Verheughe wrote:
>>
>>> While on the subject; I have no reason to believe I have problems
>>> with my finger strainers but ... it could be nice to check that are
>>> not halv cloted, right? But I don't really want to remove them.
>>> Isn't it possible to suck fuel from the refueling cap side and hold
>>> a hose close to the strainer to see if some dirty stuff of
>>> particles is being sucked? Has anyone tried that?
>>>
>>> Cheers,
>>> Michel Verheughe
>>> Norway
>>> Kitfox 3 - Jabiru 2200
>>>
>>>
>>> <pre><b><font size=2 color="#000000" face="courier new,courier">
>>>
>>> List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List</a>
>>> forums.matronics.com</a>
>>> www.matronics.com/contribution</a>
>>>
>>> </b></font></pre>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Polybrush help!!! |
When I painted mine, it was in the winter with outside temps around 30. I
started out heating the garage to about 60 but had poor results. One day I
didn't have time to heat the garage and it was at 48 when I painted, it came
out looking great. When you heat, it changes the humidity which I think
causes more problems with the spray either drying too fast or not fast
enough.
It sounds like you might have a surface prep problem too. Since JP4 is
like a kerosene, the air can be oily which could ruin your surface for
painting.
Mike Logan
Series 5
Dogwood Airpark
Loving Global Warming
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lynn Matteson
Sent: Tuesday, January 08, 2008 7:55 AM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Polybrush help!!!
I did all my spraying at the suggested 70F or higher...their
warnings: DON'T SPRAY BELOW 55!.....DON'T SPRAY ABOVE 95 OR IN HIGH
HUMIDITY!...Have "the minds at the field" used Poly-Fiber products
before? Most folks that I talked to around here about using PF
products were surprised at the restrictions that PF suggests for
spraying/using their products. I did all of my covering work between
Dec 2004 and May 2005 in a heated pole barn in Michigan, using a
dehumidifier inside the paint booth (draped plastic sheeting) when
humidity was high and a water-soaked floor when it got too low. Did
you "thoroughly scrub the fabric with MEK or reducer" with a clean
rag? They get real specific here. Did you brush on the first coat of
Poly-brush?
I was just reading the instructions over and I noticed: "After
scrubbing the fabric with MEK or reducer, follow by passing a tack
rag over the surface to pick up any dust or lint."
I've always worried about using a tack rag too soon after washing the
surface with a solvent, thinking that the solvent, if not evaporated,
might pick up something from the tack rag.
That's all I can think of for now.
Lynn Matteson
Grass Lake, Michigan
Kitfox IV Speedster w/Jabiru 2200
flying w/450+ hrs
On Jan 8, 2008, at 3:30 AM, wadegreaves wrote:
> <reinagreaves@comcast.net>
>
> I am lost!
>
> I got my spray equipment up to par with a filter/water trap. Have
> plenty of line and a good HVLP gun. Thinned my polybrush out with
> 65-75 (3:1). Gun sprays nice and smooth. I clean the surface with
> MEK to ensure there is no contaminants....
>
> Then I spray the fabric and it literally looks like water on a well
> sealed deck. Doesn't want to settle smoothly. It will bead up
> into blobs here and there.
>
> Could this be due to low air temperature? That's the only think I
> can think of. It is cold here in Oregon right now...in the 30s. I
> am heating my hangar up to probably about 50 or so. The minds at
> the field seem to think that low temps and spraying polybrush is fine.
> I bought a JP-4 powered forced air heater to get my hangar toasty
> and am hoping that the warmer air will eliminate this problem.
> Anyone else heard of or observed this odd behavior? (not mine...the
> polybrush's)
>
> Any advice would be great....losing it over here! [Evil or Very Mad]
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=156727#156727
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Polybrush help!!! |
If memory serves mme corectly. as it gets colder, it takes longer for
the polybrush to dry. Adding the 65-75 thinner would take it extremely
long to dry. When it gets to be 50 it's already too cold for normal
painting. At that temp and below, you would expect a very wet look for
a long time and then most likely a lot of runs if not painting a flat
surface.
Try getting the shop and surface temp of what you are painting warmer
and skip the step of adding thinner or using very little. Wait a long
while after wiping with MEK so it can evapoarte out to. I think that
would help you. If you want to paint at 50, be very careful too apply
too much product at once so that it has a chance to evaporate and dry.
When you get to the finish coats, at that temp, it will dry to a very
nice low luster finish as opposed to the usual flat finish.
What you want to do can be done, but be patient and give the product
planty of time to dry.
I did mine at up to 100 in high humidity in the summer and finished in
mid winter when the best I could do was keep the paint booth at 50. I
made every possible mistake, but with help from Jim and Dondie at
PolyFiber, I managed to get a real nice paint job out of it.
Just my two cents. Good luck and happy painitng.
Rick Weiss
Series V Speedster
Now in Daytona Beach but painted the Plane in Maryland.
DO NOT ARCHIVE
-----Original Message-----
From: wadegreaves <reinagreaves@comcast.net>
Sent: Tue, 8 Jan 2008 12:30 am
Subject: Kitfox-List: Polybrush help!!!
<reinagreaves@comcast.net>
I am lost!
I got my spray equipment up to par with a filter/water trap. Have
plenty of
line and a good HVLP gun. Thinned my polybrush out with 65-75 (3:1).
Gun
sprays nice and smooth. I clean the surface with MEK to ensure there
is no
contaminants....
Then I spray the fabric and it literally looks like water on a well
sealed deck.
Doesn't want to settle smoothly. It will bead up into blobs here and
there.
Could this be due to low air temperature? That's the only think I can
think of.
It is cold here in Oregon right now...in the 30s. I am heating my
hangar up to
probably about 50 or so. The minds at the field seem to think that low
temps
and spraying polybrush is fine.
I bought a JP-4 powered forced air heater to get my hangar toasty and
am hoping
that the warmer air will eliminate this problem.
Anyone else heard of or observed this odd behavior? (not mine...the
polybrush's)
Any advice would be great....losing it over here! [Evil or Very Mad]
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=156727#156727
________________________________________________________________________
http://webmail.aol.com
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Polybrush help!!! |
Wade,
You should do your first coat of polybrush as a brush on coat. After
applying that coat, then you will be applying your tapes, doing a bunch more
ironing, and then applying your sprayed coats of polybrush, spray, and tone.
Sort of a waste of effort to shoot the first coat.
I've done polyfiber painting down into the 50's with no problem and in fact,
if you use polytone for your color, a good trick to get a nice gloss is to
shoot on a cool day, cool your paint before shooting and use the 8500 reducer
to slow the set time down.
As for your issued with shooting it... what sort of rag are you using to
clean with the MEK? Any silicon in the rag will transfer to the fabric and
cause problems.
John Alexander
SBX-1/Pearl Harbor
On Tue, 8 Jan 2008 00:30:22 -0800, wadegreaves wrote
>
> I am lost!
>
> I got my spray equipment up to par with a filter/water trap. Have
> plenty of line and a good HVLP gun. Thinned my polybrush out with
> 65-75 (3:1). Gun sprays nice and smooth. I clean the surface with
> MEK to ensure there is no contaminants....
>
> Then I spray the fabric and it literally looks like water on a well
> sealed deck. Doesn't want to settle smoothly. It will bead up into
> blobs here and there.
>
> Could this be due to low air temperature? That's the only think I
> can think of. It is cold here in Oregon right now...in the 30s. I
> am heating my hangar up to probably about 50 or so. The minds at
> the field seem to think that low temps and spraying polybrush is
> fine. I bought a JP-4 powered forced air heater to get my hangar
> toasty and am hoping that the warmer air will eliminate this
> problem. Anyone else heard of or observed this odd behavior? (not
> mine...the polybrush's)
>
> Any advice would be great....losing it over here! [Evil or Very Mad]
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=156727#156727
>
--
Beer is proof that god loves us and wants us to be happy. - Ben Franklin
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Polybrush help!!! |
I doubt very much that it's the temp or humidity causing your problem. Poly fibre
products spray very well in low temps. Something else is happening there.
I'd call one of the Polyfiber reps and pose the question to them. There is
probably an answer easily available. If you get one, please share it with us.
Deke
S5, Northeast MI
On Tue, 8 Jan 2008 00:30:22 -0800, "wadegreaves" <reinagreaves@comcast.net> wrote:
>
> I am lost!
>
> I got my spray equipment up to par with a filter/water trap. Have plenty
> of line and a good HVLP gun. Thinned my polybrush out with 65-75 (3:1).
> Gun sprays nice and smooth. I clean the surface with MEK to ensure there
> is no contaminants....
>
> Then I spray the fabric and it literally looks like water on a well sealed
> deck. Doesn't want to settle smoothly. It will bead up into blobs here
> and there.
>
> Could this be due to low air temperature? That's the only think I can
> think of. It is cold here in Oregon right now...in the 30s. I am heating
> my hangar up to probably about 50 or so. The minds at the field seem to
> think that low temps and spraying polybrush is fine.
> I bought a JP-4 powered forced air heater to get my hangar toasty and am
> hoping that the warmer air will eliminate this problem.
> Anyone else heard of or observed this odd behavior? (not mine...the
> polybrush's)
>
> Any advice would be great....losing it over here! [Evil or Very Mad]
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=156727#156727
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Wing Tank Fuel Finger Strainers |
> Would sure be helpful to know if anyone has found restrictions on the
> strainers when they removed them and as someone else suggested a report on
> kind of fuel used if a restrictions was found.
Jimmie, the design of finger strainers is to prevent large debris such as leaves,
butterflies, someone mentioned mice, etc. from blocking the fuel port in the
tank.
On the 1998 Alaska trip one of the kitfoxes made one emergency landing due to a rough running engine. They diagnosed the problem as fouled spark plugs. On the next leg he almost had to make another emergency landing due to a rough running engine. They then found the problem was really fuel starvation from large chunks of the dreaded kreem flaking off inside the wing tank and blocking the finger strainer. You can read the story on the "Sportflight web site". here is the direct link. http://sportflight.com/alaska/KingEpilog.htm It is quite interesting how they removed the wing and sloshed the tank with acitone to remove the remaining Kreem.
--------
Tom Jones
Classic IV, Phase one
503 Rotax, 72 inch Two blade Warp
Ellensburg, WA
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=156843#156843
Message 21
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|
Hi all... I just thought I'd introduce myself, I hope that's ok to do here.
My name is Ron Zeppin, 39, I live in Tempe, AZ with my wife and 4 kids,
10, 10, 12, 13. (3-girls, 1-boy) 7 ferrets, 2 rats, and a hamster... In
a pear tree.
I'm a field service tech working on cash handling systems. I've been a
fan of aviation for as long as I can remember.
I've always wanted to be a pilot, but things never seemed to be right.
My 'new' wife is in college after a 10 year hiatus going for her Masters
degree.
She's all for getting my SPL/PPL, and feels it would be very nice to
have our own plane. After looking at a TON of stuff, and weight out all
my options,
the Kitfox seems to be the clear choice. My wife and I were able to sit
in the white and blue Kitfox that I believe is the owners at the
Copperstate fly-in
Oct '06. I'm a big guy, and the Kitfox seemed to be a nice fit. I've
been a 'mechanical' person my entire life. (Parents had to keep the
appliances away from me
when I was 8... ;) I think it would be a wonderful feeling of
accomplishment to build and fly my own aircraft. I've been building a
flying large 'model' rockets for
the past 10 years, the largest of which was 16" diameter, 11' tall, and
weighed 130lbs. Went 5200ft with perfect recovery! ;)
I was pretty excited to find this forum, as I've learned a LOT about
various thing through forums.
So I'm a total newbie to real aircraft (some RC experience). I'm hoping
to learn a lot here from you veterans, and other builders alike.
I've got some time before I'm able to order a kit, and am considering
doing it in kit stages, otherwise I'll wind up waiting until the wife is
done
with college and is in the workforce, and order the whole shebang at once.
At this point, I'm strongly considering Corvair for a powerplant, or
possibly Subaru, although I'm strongly leaning towards the Corvair.
Sorry for writing a book, especially if I shouldn't have! I tend to ramble!
Cheers guys, hope '08 is a productive and SAFE one!
Ron
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Reality check, it is time |
Also Noel, "If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find
you handy".Thanks to cable, I too know of ol' Red.
Greg G
Macedon, N.Y.
23NK
n375KL
Mod 2
582
do not archive
**************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape.
http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489
Message 23
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| Subject: | Wing Tank Fuel Finger Strainers |
I Checked my wing tank fuel strainers at about 300 hours, after using mostly
auto gas transferred form 5 gallon cans - both finger strainers were clear,
however I know I could find junk on the strainers at any time if junk got past
the filter in my funnel or if I changed my fueling technique in some other
meaningful way so hours in use may not be very useful. (As an aside, Lockwood
Aviation recommends a specific type of in line filter near the engine as I
recall from their Rotax 912 course.)
BJ
N154K
443-480-1023
bjones@dmv.com
Quoting Rick <wingsdown@verizon.net>:
>
> I made that part of my annual. Good thing to check for sure. Should seal
> without any sealants, but don't guess it could hurt unless your one of
> those anal weight types. :)
>
> Rick
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> jimmieblackwell@austin.rr.com
> Sent: 2008-01-07 12:37
> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Kitfox-List: Wing Tank Fuel Finger Strainers
>
>
>
> My Kitfox was originally built in 1994. So, I think it is about time to
> remove and check the finger strainers in the wing tanks. Has anyone on
> the list removed their finger strainers from the fiberglass wing tanks
> and if so are there any issues of concern getting the strainers out
> without damaging the tank threads?
>
> Jimmie
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
------------------------------------------------------
This message was sent using Delmarva Online's Webmail.
http://www.dmv.com/
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Kitfox construction |
Was that last sentence really necessary or was it a feeble attempt to stir the
pot? Our moderators are trying their best to do a good job and don't get paid
enough to put up with that.
Deke
S5, Northeast Michigan
do not archive
On Mon, 7 Jan 2008 00:44:46 -0700, "A Smith" <kitfox@ida.net> wrote:
> Dee
> Do not think that no one cares. It is all important. The group seems to be
> loosing something. It is not anyone in particular. It is hard to put a
> finger on. Glad to hear of your alum. bending fun. Tell me about it. After
> all, it is Kitfox related. I like to work with alum. but I am not even
> close to what some of the people on the list can do. I figure if it is
> straight or I really meant to bend it it is good. Got some pics??? You can
> send them to me off list. Do not want to offend the moderator.
> Albert Smith
> Mod. 5 TD NSI Turbo, CAP
> Mudlake, Idaho
>
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