Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:52 AM - cracks in wing tank sealant (Catz631@aol.com)
2. 05:16 AM - cracks in wing tank sealant (fox5flyer)
3. 06:52 AM - Re: Landing LightLanding Light Photos (bigboyz toyz)
4. 07:01 AM - Re: surplus 8 (bigboyz toyz)
5. 07:45 AM - kitfox IV 1995 Tanks (bigboyz toyz)
6. 08:54 AM - Rudder Tab? (bigboyz toyz)
7. 09:50 AM - Re: Rudder Tab? (Tom Jones)
8. 10:26 AM - selling model IV (dwight purdy)
9. 10:38 AM - Re: First Flight N35KF M7 (ron schick)
10. 11:40 AM - Re: cracks in wing tank sealant (Lynn Matteson)
11. 03:42 PM - Re: weight/double pin door latch (chris t gandy)
12. 03:53 PM - Re: Rudder Tab? (Dan Billingsley)
13. 06:01 PM - horizontal stabilizer (Mike Chaney)
14. 06:24 PM - Bubble Doors ? (bigboyz toyz)
15. 07:10 PM - Door Latching you really Like? (bigboyz toyz)
16. 07:22 PM - Re: horizontal stabilizer (bigboyz toyz)
17. 07:43 PM - Re: horizontal stabilizer (Lynn Matteson)
18. 08:05 PM - Re: Re: horizontal stabilizer (Lynn Matteson)
19. 08:19 PM - Re: Door Latching you really Like? (darinh)
20. 08:37 PM - Re: weight (patrick reilly)
Message 1
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| Subject: | cracks in wing tank sealant |
I know this is an old subject but as a newer member perhaps someone might
have an idea. Yesterday I folded the wings on my 2001 Kitfox 4-1200 to install
some new fuel tank sight gauge tubes. While folded, I removed the fuel caps and
took a look inside my tanks to see if the sealant Kreme had been used in my
tanks as this was a recently purchased aircraft. Sure enough there was that
creamy color. One tank looked OK (at least from what I could see) but the other
had a small area along the bottom of the outer edge where it appeared the stuff
was shrinking and cracking.It resembled a prune and had slightly pulled away
from the Fiberglas. I don't think any of it has come off(yet) but I was
wondering how long I might have before this happens. I will keep a constant watch.
My gascolator screens were clean.
Is my only solution to remove the tanks and replace them with the plastic
tanks offered by another company? I sure hate cutting these tanks out as I am
not an experienced fabric guy although I have watched a bunch of it being done
and will of course get the books and do it if I have too. I can't see that
removing the wings and filling the tanks with a solution of MEK and shaking it
around would do much good to get the old stuff out as some guys have done.
Any input would be greatly appreciated as you guys were the ones who
alerted me to the problem in the first place. I am sure there are other Kitfoxes
with the same undiscovered problem.
Thanks,
Dick Maddux
Fox 4-1200
Pensacola,Fl.
**************The year's hottest artists on the red carpet at the Grammy
Awards. Go to AOL Music.
(http://music.aol.com/grammys?NCID=aolcmp00300000002565)
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| Subject: | cracks in wing tank sealant |
Your plight is a familiar one, Dick, and by the sound of it, you
definitely have the Kreem coming loose. This was caused in many tanks
by failure of the Kreem applier to properly clean away the mold release
before applying the Kreem. There are a lot of them out there like this.
It's possible for the Kreem to release in sheets and potentially block
flow from the tank. This happened to a guy on one of the Alaska trips,
but a field repair was able to be made.
1. The easiest way is to remove the wings, get a few people to help,
use MEK or Acetone to remove the old Kreem, then either leave them
unsloshed or reKreem using a 50/50 Kreem/MEK mixture.
2. If you don't like that option, you can remove the tanks from the
wings, and do the same thing as above, then reinstall the tanks, make a
fabric repair, repaint, be on your way and never look back.
3. The most expensive is to replace the tanks.
It's all based on choices, but none of them are very difficult.
If it were me, I'd do #2.
Deke
----- Original Message -----
From: Catz631@aol.com
To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, February 16, 2008 7:50 AM
Subject: Kitfox-List: cracks in wing tank sealant
I know this is an old subject but as a newer member perhaps someone
might have an idea. Yesterday I folded the wings on my 2001 Kitfox
4-1200 to install some new fuel tank sight gauge tubes. While folded, I
removed the fuel caps and took a look inside my tanks to see if the
sealant Kreme had been used in my tanks as this was a recently purchased
aircraft. Sure enough there was that creamy color. One tank looked OK
(at least from what I could see) but the other had a small area along
the bottom of the outer edge where it appeared the stuff was shrinking
and cracking.It resembled a prune and had slightly pulled away from the
Fiberglas. I don't think any of it has come off(yet) but I was wondering
how long I might have before this happens. I will keep a constant watch.
My gascolator screens were clean.
Is my only solution to remove the tanks and replace them with the
plastic tanks offered by another company? I sure hate cutting these
tanks out as I am not an experienced fabric guy although I have watched
a bunch of it being done and will of course get the books and do it if I
have too. I can't see that removing the wings and filling the tanks with
a solution of MEK and shaking it around would do much good to get the
old stuff out as some guys have done.
Any input would be greatly appreciated as you guys were the ones who
alerted me to the problem in the first place. I am sure there are other
Kitfoxes with the same undiscovered problem.
Thanks,
Dick Maddux
Fox 4-1200
Pensacola,Fl.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
The year's hottest artists on the red carpet at the Grammy Awards. AOL
Music takes you there.
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| Subject: | Re: Landing LightLanding Light Photos |
Photos did not attach so see if this works
The plane with the Center Light Belongs to my Tec Advisor
The wing tip light photo belongs to Ray Gignac a close friend and a member here
The last 2 are of my Kunzelman's on my plane
Lee Fritz
Keep your feet on the peddels and keep reaching for the sky!!!!
Lee
---------------------------------
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I could use them! let me know how much shipping.I will need to send you shipping
cost. They will ship to 346 Pleasant Hill Rd. Owings Mills Md. 21117 that is
unless you are close enough to drive o pick them up. If they are on the east
coast from Fort Myers Fla. to Maryland. I have some snow birds that will be
comming up sometime in march and could have them picked up.
Lee
Keep your feet on the peddels and keep reaching for the sky!!!!
Lee
---------------------------------
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| Subject: | kitfox IV 1995 Tanks |
Hello All,
John McBean did not own the kitfox company back then and was not sure weather
i am going to be effected by the E-10. (Note: John did say that ONLY the fiberglass
tanks should be in the wing they are part of the structure and the plastic
tanks have not been part of the design) Does anyone know how to test the
tank fiberglass construction before it gets to be a problem for me.
In the old cars that my dad has he takes the tanks out and coats them with a
eastwood product to gaurd against rust. The only issue is that they are metal
and I am not sure weather this will stick to fiberglass.
I have been watching the local fuel from the Rutters in my area and right now
they have coventional fuel. They are ramping up to E10 according to the tanker
guy that day I asked last month for sometime in Feb 08.
Keep your feet on the peddels and keep reaching for the sky!!!!
Lee
---------------------------------
Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage.
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Does any one have any Ideas as to a tab for the Rudder I seem to have my right
foot in level flight always on that peddle. Thought about a tab or a bungee to
hold it at a set place. I saw a guy with a friction Knob on a bungee to slightly
pull on the cable. You turn the knob and it adds tension so you can take your
foot off the peddle.
Lee
Can some one email (Off List) me and let me know how to ad photos to my posts.
I sent 2 and they did not show up.
Keep your feet on the peddels and keep reaching for the sky!!!!
Lee
---------------------------------
Message 7
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> Can some one email (Off List) me and let me know how to ad photos to my posts.
I sent 2 and they did not show up.
lee, your photos of the strobes and landing light showed up fine both times on
the matronics web sight of the kitfox list. Look here
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?t=39526
--------
Tom Jones
Classic IV, Phase one
503 Rotax, 72 inch Two blade Warp
Ellensburg, WA
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=164434#164434
Message 8
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| Subject: | selling model IV |
Any lurkers wanting a good deal that could be done by spring? It is a
1996 model IV classic with all the fairings of a speedster. Dual tanks dual
brakes. gear step. pvc leading edge addition,lower false ribs. Factory
built wings. Check out my ad on Barnstormers.
http://www.barnstormers.com/ad_manager/ad_detail.php?ID=225570
dwight
model II
--
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| Subject: | First Flight N35KF M7 |
Cool! Nothin better than the first time! Congrads. Ron NB Ore> Subject:
Kitfox-List: First Flight N35KF M7> From: david@kelm.com> Date: Fri, 15 Fe
b 2008 06:55:29 -0800> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com> > --> Kitfox-List mes
sage posted by: "dcsfoto" <david@kelm.com>> > got a good morning to fly and
made my first flight.> > Went great ! only need another flight to make adj
ustment of tailplane.> I have the old manual trim.> > sure is fast !!!!> do
not arcive.> > David Model 3 and 7> > > > > Read this topic online here:>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=164197#164197> > > > > > >
==> > >
_________________________________________________________________
Need to know the score, the latest news, or you need your Hotmail=AE-get yo
ur "fix".
http://www.msnmobilefix.com/Default.aspx
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: cracks in wing tank sealant |
Hi Dick-
I disagree with your assessment of taking the wings off and sloshing,
as a means of cleaning out the old Kreem. It works, and works well,
apparently. I've got about 475 hrs on mine and going on 2-1/2 yrs
since I did my tanks...already in the wings. I had called the former
Skystar Co. for advice and they told me that since the tanks were, at
that time, about 11 years old and had had nothing in them (don't know
whether this makes any difference), that I should slosh with acetone
and re-Kreem. I had a set of wing rotators which made it pretty easy
to get the tops and bottoms of the tanks, but getting the ends was
another matter, but not impossible. The acetone completely dissolved
the old Kreem, and I kept draining and re-sloshing with newer acetone
until it ran clear. Same method for re-coating with Kreem, diluted
with MEK 50/50.
Now, I've got to preface my no problem status...I have used nothing
but 100LL except for about 9 gallons of premium. I can't speak to
using anything but 100LL, as I don't know how the Kreem will perform
if using autofuel w/E-whatever.
Lynn Matteson
Grass Lake, Michigan
Kitfox IV Speedster w/Jabiru 2200
flying w/470+ hrs
On Feb 16, 2008, at 7:50 AM, Catz631@aol.com wrote:
> I know this is an old subject but as a newer member perhaps someone
> might have an idea. Yesterday I folded the wings on my 2001 Kitfox
> 4-1200 to install some new fuel tank sight gauge tubes. While
> folded, I removed the fuel caps and took a look inside my tanks to
> see if the sealant Kreme had been used in my tanks as this was a
> recently purchased aircraft. Sure enough there was that creamy
> color. One tank looked OK (at least from what I could see) but the
> other had a small area along the bottom of the outer edge where it
> appeared the stuff was shrinking and cracking.It resembled a prune
> and had slightly pulled away from the Fiberglas. I don't think any
> of it has come off(yet) but I was wondering how long I might have
> before this happens. I will keep a constant watch. My gascolator
> screens were clean.
> Is my only solution to remove the tanks and replace them with the
> plastic tanks offered by another company? I sure hate cutting these
> tanks out as I am not an experienced fabric guy although I have
> watched a bunch of it being done and will of course get the books
> and do it if I have too. I can't see that removing the wings and
> filling the tanks with a solution of MEK and shaking it around
> would do much good to get the old stuff out as some guys have done.
> Any input would be greatly appreciated as you guys were the ones
> who alerted me to the problem in the first place. I am sure there
> are other Kitfoxes with the same undiscovered problem.
> Thanks,
> Dick Maddux
> Fox 4-1200
> Pensacola,Fl.
>
>
> The year's hottest artists on the red carpet at the Grammy Awards.
> AOL Music takes you there.
> www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List _-
> www.matronics.com/contribution _-
> ===========================================================
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: weight/double pin door latch |
if you still have the door latches, i would be interested in them. i have
am building a model 5 and that is the type on there. thanks chris
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Lee, Many of the guys just rivet an aluminum tab off the back of the rudder and
bend it to compensate.
Dan
bigboyz toyz <bigboyzt0yz@yahoo.com> wrote:
Does any one have any Ideas as to a tab for the Rudder I seem to have my right
foot in level flight always on that peddle. Thought about a tab or a bungee
to hold it at a set place. I saw a guy with a friction Knob on a bungee to slightly
pull on the cable. You turn the knob and it adds tension so you can take
your foot off the peddle.
Lee
Can some one email (Off List) me and let me know how to ad photos to my posts.
I sent 2 and they did not show up.
Keep your feet on the peddels and keep reaching for the sky!!!!
Lee
Message 13
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| Subject: | horizontal stabilizer |
This concerns the horizontal stabilizer struts on a Model IV. I purchased the
beefed up horizontal stabilizer struts from Kitfox and was installing them and
ran into a problem. When they made the struts they flatten one end ot the tubing
to provide a flat area to attach to the single tab on the fuseledge. I attached
the rod ends to the horizontal stabilizer but when I tried to attach the
struts to the fuseledge tab the rounded portions of the struts touched preventing
the flattened areas to go together. I suppose I could add washers to fix
this problem but I would think the flattened areas of the struts should go together
and touch the tab.
Any suggestions?
Mike Chaney
---------------------------------
Message 14
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I just got some Bouble doors and am looking for the frames to mount them to. I
thought about building them my self and having the side rails follow the bubbles
contour. It would give even more space ti the cabin and keep it from flexing
at all when you slip in for a landing. That is unless someone has some NOS to
sell and the shipping is not going to be off the charts. I ordered some strut
covers and the shipping was 1/3 more than the parts cost. Any ideas are welcome.
Keep your feet on the peddels and keep reaching for the sky!!!!
Lee
---------------------------------
Message 15
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| Subject: | Door Latching you really Like? |
OK Group,
Yes I have posted a lot because there is no sense in re inventing the wheel,
there are so great Kitfox minds to pull from on the list. So what is the VERY
best way to make, build, adapt some type of latching unit for the doors? I saw
a really cool setup on a helicopter it has pins that came out and was operated
from a central turning latch doohickey.
I am getting ready to install some bubble doors and was looking for some kind
of latching unit that is going to keep the door in place and sealed tight.
I am thinking of building the door frames either from scratch or by altering
a set that some one might have and wants to part with reasonably.
I could Tig, Machine, ETC. something together that would not be any problem so
there is no limit to your creativity.
Thanks to All
Lee
Keep your feet on the peddels and keep reaching for the sky!!!!
Lee
---------------------------------
Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage.
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: horizontal stabilizer |
Mike Chaney,
Mine has a adjustment at the outboard end only. Just make sure you put a A/N
washer under the head of the bolt on the adjustment end in case the joint fails
it can not come completely off. If it fails in flight it might be a real problem
getting back on the ground safely.
If you need me to send you a photo I will be at the hanger tomorow and could
send it when I get back in the afternoon.
Lee
Keep your feet on the peddels and keep reaching for the sky!!!!
Lee
---------------------------------
Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now.
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: horizontal stabilizer |
Were there four individual struts, or two struts V'd together? From
your description it sounds like they sent you four struts/tubes. My
Model IV struts came from the factory as two V-shaped struts...one
left side and one right side. These V-shaped struts are welded
together such that the front one goes onto the fuselage tab, and the
rear tube gets cut at an angle to fit snugly up against the front
tube, then they are welded together. At least that's how mine were
received from the factory back in 1994. The result is that the
flattened part of one strut tube lays onto the fuselage tab, and is
bolted to it. Try looking at it in this way, and see if it makes
sense. Did they send you two or four rod ends? Mine has just two rod
ends, and they go to the front of the hort. stab. The rear
connections to the hort. stab are both the flattened tubes, as I
remember it.
Lynn Matteson
Grass Lake, Michigan
Kitfox IV Speedster w/Jabiru 2200
flying w/470+ hrs
On Feb 16, 2008, at 8:58 PM, Mike Chaney wrote:
> This concerns the horizontal stabilizer struts on a Model IV. I
> purchased the beefed up horizontal stabilizer struts from Kitfox
> and was installing them and ran into a problem. When they made the
> struts they flatten one end ot the tubing to provide a flat area to
> attach to the single tab on the fuseledge. I attached the rod ends
> to the horizontal stabilizer but when I tried to attach the struts
> to the fuseledge tab the rounded portions of the struts touched
> preventing the flattened areas to go together. I suppose I could
> add washers to fix this problem but I would think the flattened
> areas of the struts should go together and touch the tab.
>
> Any suggestions?
>
> Mike Chaney
>
>
> www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List _-
> www.matronics.com/contribution _-
> ===========================================================
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: horizontal stabilizer |
And make sure that the washer you use is an AN 970 washer, which is a
"large area" washer. A normal AN960 washer won't do any good. I think
that an AN960 washer will pull right through a failed rod end
bearing, if I'm not mistaken. My parts list calls for two AN 970
washers <L.A.> in this application. The larger 970 washer won't let
the failed rod end escape.
Lynn Matteson
Grass Lake, Michigan
Kitfox IV Speedster w/Jabiru 2200
flying w/470+ hrs
On Feb 16, 2008, at 10:19 PM, bigboyz toyz wrote:
> Mike Chaney,
>
> Mine has a adjustment at the outboard end only. Just make sure you
> put a A/N washer under the head of the bolt on the adjustment end
> in case the joint fails it can not come completely off. If it fails
> in flight it might be a real problem getting back on the ground
> safely.
>
> If you need me to send you a photo I will be at the hanger tomorow
> and could send it when I get back in the afternoon.
>
> Lee
>
>
> Keep your feet on the peddels and keep reaching for the sky!!!!
>
> Lee
>
>
> Be a better friend, newshound, and _-
> www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List _-
> www.matronics.com/contribution _-
> ===========================================================
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Door Latching you really Like? |
Lee,
Here is how my Series 7 latches are done. Don't know what model you have but something
like this could be fitted to any door with some thought. These are the
optional door latches that Skystar supplied with the kits...I would assume
John McBean is still using this same setup and so you could get them from him.
--------
Darin Hawkes
Series 7 (under Construction)
914 Turbo
Kaysville, Utah
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=164513#164513
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dscf1530_203.jpg
Message 20
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Lynn, Thanks for the pics. I don't have the double tube in the center of th
e door. But, when I saw the bell crank the lights came on. I closed up the
legs on a 3" pc of 1/16th x 1 1/2" alum angle to grip the sides of my sing
le mid door bar, drilled a hole in it, installed a 10-24 rivet nut for a 1/
4" shoulder bolt for the bell crank pivot and riveted it to that mid door b
ar 6 1/4 " back from the existing sprung front door latch. The bell crank i
s 1/4"x 1" alumninum stock. I left it 4" longer on the bottom, bent it in t
o match the door angle and drilled it full of lightening holes to use as th
e interior door handle. I'll run 1/8 x 3/4 aluminum actuator rods fore and
aft after I drill them full of lightening holes, and add a pin in the botto
m of the handle sticking out a slot in the door for an exterior knob.
Us old guys that cut our teeth fabricating motorcycle, streetrod, and racer
car parts have it easy with these experimental airplanes, don't we?
Old cars are fun, motorcycles are crazy, but airplanes they"re insane!
Lovin it in Rockford!
Pat Reilly
Mod 3 Rebuild
> From: lynnmatt@jps.net> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: weight> Date: Tue, 12
Feb 2008 14:11:59 -0500> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com> > Here are two sho
ts that I have, Pat. The kit that I had required > several parts to be made
from stock that was furnished. Instructions > came with the kit as supplie
d in 1994.> >
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