Kitfox-List Digest Archive

Sun 02/17/08


Total Messages Posted: 24



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 05:29 AM - Re: cracks in wing tank sealant (Catz631@aol.com)
     2. 06:04 AM - Re: cracks in wing tank sealant (Catz631@aol.com)
     3. 06:06 AM - Re: cracks in wing tank sealant (dave)
     4. 06:49 AM - Re: weight (Lynn Matteson)
     5. 07:15 AM - Re: cracks in wing tank sealant (Lynn Matteson)
     6. 07:55 AM - Re: cracks in wing tank sealant (dave)
     7. 09:10 AM - Re: cracks in wing tank sealant (jdmcbean)
     8. 09:34 AM - Re: horizontal stabilizer (Mike Chaney)
     9. 10:04 AM - Re: cracks in wing tank sealant (Michel Verheughe)
    10. 10:34 AM - Re: cracks in wing tank sealant (fox5flyer)
    11. 11:18 AM - Re: cracks in wing tank sealant (dave)
    12. 11:24 AM - Kit Fox Fly In Sun.May 11th (Steve Shinabery)
    13. 12:24 PM - Re: horizontal stabilizer (Tom Jones)
    14. 03:22 PM - Re: Door Latching you really Like? (Guy Buchanan)
    15. 03:22 PM - Re: horizontal stabilizer (Guy Buchanan)
    16. 03:29 PM - Re: Door Latching you really Like? (Clint Bazzill)
    17. 04:17 PM - Re: Door Latching you really Like? (dave)
    18. 05:07 PM - Re: Door Latching you really Like? (fox5flyer)
    19. 05:36 PM - Re: cracks in wing tank sealant(could be titled wing structure._ (kerrjohna@comcast.net)
    20. 05:47 PM - Re: weight (patrick reilly)
    21. 08:00 PM - Re: cracks in wing tank sealant (david yeamans)
    22. 08:57 PM - Battery Re-Location? (RAY Gignac)
    23. 11:33 PM - Kitfox IV speed Range (bigboyzt0yz)
    24. 11:57 PM - Re: Battery Re-Location? (Michel Verheughe)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 05:29:21 AM PST US
    From: Catz631@aol.com
    Subject: Re: cracks in wing tank sealant
    Deke,Lee and Lynn ,Thanks for your input. I am now reconcidering removing the wings and cleaning the tanks with the tanks in place. I read the Alaska account and prior threads on that method.It just seemed that the removal and application of the Kreem would not work well but maybe so. I am using nothing but auto fuel in my 912UL and so far it does not have alcohol but it will be coming I know.Our governor is "hot on the trail" for it's use here in Florida.Is there nothing better than Kreem ? Is it affected by alcohol in the fuel? Lynn,I read in the info about the plastic tanks that the installation proceedure requires cutting out the tops of the fiberglass tanks and installing each 5 gal tank in the cavity then covering the top of the tanks with 1/8 " plywood and then recovering.I wonder if that would be structuraly strong enough if the fiberglas tanks were required as part of the wing structure ? I do know that a set of 4 tanks(20 gal) would be expensive (about $1100) Dick Maddux Fox 4-1200 Rotax 912UL Pensacola,Fl **************Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch video on AOL Living. (http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duffy/ 2050827?NCID=aolcmp00300000002598)


    Message 2


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    Time: 06:04:37 AM PST US
    From: Catz631@aol.com
    Subject: Re: cracks in wing tank sealant
    Has anyone used the Bill Hirsch tank sealer? From the literature, he is advertising it is the only one used in aircraft tanks. It too is MEK soluable,alcohol proof,etc. Other articles on the net talking about tank sealers sure" bad mouth" Kreem while saying this stuff is great. It sounds like it might be the same stuff? Dick Maddux Fox 4-1200 Pensacola,Fl **************Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch video on AOL Living. (http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duffy/ 2050827?NCID=aolcmp00300000002598)


    Message 3


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    Time: 06:06:53 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: cracks in wing tank sealant
    From: "dave" <dave@cfisher.com>
    > cutting out the tops of the fiberglass tanks and installing each 5 gal tank in the cavity then covering the top of the tanks with 1/8 " plywood and then recovering.I wonder if that would be structuraly strong enough if the fiberglas tanks were required as part of the wing structure ? I do know that a set of 4 tanks(20 gal) would be expensive (about $1100 "Likely" stronger once you use spray foam to bond the new tanks to the existing ones. I think the 1/8" plywood is just a top cover but might add a bit of strength. Now that being said after going through thousands of gallon on gas in my wingtanks and ethanol auto gas , I have had NO ISSUES YET. If I do I will likely resort to these http://www.wingtanks.com/ and add an extra tank on each wing. for 1100$ that seems like decent fix to a problem that IF you had would make your plane --> FLYABLE or NOT FLYABLE. Also I have No creme in my tanks nor would i ever put it it to a perfectly good tank. -------- Rotax Dealer, Ontario Canada Flying Videos and Kitfox Info http://www.cfisher.com/ Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=164545#164545


    Message 4


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    Time: 06:49:19 AM PST US
    From: Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt@jps.net>
    Subject: Re: weight
    Sounds like you've covered the bases, Pat. Don't forget that the "slot in the door for an exterior knob" will be a source of cold air in the winter when the hawk blows through Rockford. A pivoting handle outside will offer less chance of air leaks. Lynn do not archive On Feb 16, 2008, at 11:24 PM, patrick reilly wrote: > Lynn, Thanks for the pics. I don't have the double tube in the > center of the door. But, when I saw the bell crank the lights came > on. I closed up the legs on a 3" pc of 1/16th x 1 1/2" alum angle > to grip the sides of my single mid door bar, drilled a hole in it, > installed a 10-24 rivet nut for a 1/4" shoulder bolt for the bell > crank pivot and riveted it to that mid door bar 6 1/4 " back from > the existing sprung front door latch. The bell crank is 1/4"x 1" > alumninum stock. I left it 4" longer on the bottom, bent it in to > match the door angle and drilled it full of lightening holes to use > as the interior door handle. I'll run 1/8 x 3/4 aluminum actuator > rods fore and aft after I drill them full of lightening holes, and > add a pin in the bottom of the handle sticking out a slot in the > door for an exterior knob. > Us old guys that cut our teeth fabricating motorcycle, streetrod, > and racercar parts have it easy with these experimental airplanes, > don't we? > > Old cars are fun, motorcycles are crazy, but airplanes they"re insane! > > Lovin it in Rockford! > > Pat Reilly > Mod 3 Rebuild > > > > From: lynnmatt@jps.net > > Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: weight > > Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2008 14:11:59 -0500 > > To: kitfox-list@matronics.com > > > > Here are two shots that I have, Pat. The kit that I had required > > several parts to be made from stock that was furnished. Instructions > > came with the kit as supplied in 1994. > > > > > > http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List_- > ============================================================ _- > forums.matronics.com_- > ============================================================ _- > contribution_- > ===========================================================


    Message 5


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    Time: 07:15:10 AM PST US
    From: Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt@jps.net>
    Subject: Re: cracks in wing tank sealant
    I'd be the last one to comment intelligently about the wing/tank structural element, but it sounds like maybe if you left enough of the lip around the fiberglas tank that it might work, provided that you got a good bond with the plywood. Wait a minute though....there are baffles inside the f'glas tank that attach to the tank top, and I'm sure that these would have to go if you were to cut the tank top off. I'm pretty sure that these baffles add a bunch of structural strength to the tank, and resist the flexing or twisting of the wing. I'm no engineer, but I think if the original tank plays the important role in wing construction that I've read here, maybe just adding the plywood...even the best aircraft grade...wouldn't be enough. But if you could tie the plywood into the baffles somehow, then maybe.... If it was me, I'd round up some help, clean and re-slosh with Kreem, and head for the nearest 100LL pump. That way instead of paying $1100 for the tanks, you can apply that money to your fuel bill. : ) And speaking of rounding up help, they don't have to be there the whole time the tanks are soaking. Just get the tanks off, plug all the holes, put in about 5 gallons of acetone when wings are level and let it sit for several hours, flop it over...trying to think how I plugged the filler neck....rubber and a hose clamp?...and let it soak some more. The more acetone you use the less time you have to spend trying to get the ends of the tanks done. Do a couple of applications of clean acetone, until it comes out clear. Mine did not come out in sheets, but dissolved, turning the acetone to a whitish color. After allowing to dry out, mix the new Kreem 50/50 with MEK and go through the same ritual as the cleaning...that is, rotate and let sit, rotate and let sit. Drain out excess and you're done. I don't know about how alcohol affects these tanks, so I'm hoping I never have to learn the hard way. But if you go to Kreemed tanks and 100LL, you'll bypass this problem and only have to worry if they do away with 100LL. But there'll be a bigger lobby against losing 100LL than there is (I think) for keeping alcohol out of our mogas. Lynn Matteson Grass Lake, Michigan Kitfox IV Speedster w/Jabiru 2200 flying w/475+ hrs On Feb 17, 2008, at 8:25 AM, Catz631@aol.com wrote: > Deke,Lee and Lynn ,Thanks for your input. I am now reconcidering > removing the wings and cleaning the tanks with the tanks in place. > I read the Alaska account and prior threads on that method.It just > seemed that the removal and application of the Kreem would not work > well but maybe so. I am using nothing but auto fuel in my 912UL and > so far it does not have alcohol but it will be coming I know.Our > governor is "hot on the trail" for it's use here in Florida.Is > there nothing better than Kreem ? Is it affected by alcohol in the > fuel? > Lynn,I read in the info about the plastic tanks that the > installation proceedure requires cutting out the tops of the > fiberglass tanks and installing each 5 gal tank in the cavity then > covering the top of the tanks with 1/8 " plywood and then > recovering.I wonder if that would be structuraly strong enough if > the fiberglas tanks were required as part of the wing structure ? > I do know that a set of 4 tanks(20 gal) would be expensive (about > $1100) > > Dick Maddux > Fox 4-1200 > Rotax 912UL > Pensacola,Fl > > > Delicious ideas to please the pickiest eaters. Watch the video on > AOL Living. > www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List _- > www.matronics.com/contribution _- > ===========================================================


    Message 6


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    Time: 07:55:16 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: cracks in wing tank sealant
    From: "dave" <dave@cfisher.com>
    > I'm pretty sure that these baffles add a bunch of structural > strength to the tank, and resist the flexing or twisting of the wing. > I'm no engineer, but I think if the original tank plays the important > role in wing construction that I've read here, maybe just adding the > plywood...even the best aircraft grade...wouldn't be enough. But if > you could tie the plywood into the baffles somehow, then maybe Well My wings got folded last night and I just check the tanks. By lifting on the front spar with the wings folder and putting a finger where the tank meets both front and rear spars, there is movement. are my wings compromised for strength? or is that the way they are. ? Older ones never had wing tanks. So are the tanks structural? I am not sure but by mounting one of the plastic tanks and foaming it in place I think it would gain strength. How much ? now idea. Who has in fact installed these wingtanks.com tanks ? I actually like them as they look to be made of the same material that my dash tank is made of . -------- Rotax Dealer, Ontario Canada Flying Videos and Kitfox Info http://www.cfisher.com/ Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=164572#164572


    Message 7


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    Time: 09:10:33 AM PST US
    From: "jdmcbean" <jdmcbean@kitfoxaircraft.com>
    Subject: cracks in wing tank sealant
    We have done some changes over that past 6 months... although I do not think our tanks as of 1996 to 2007 have had any specific issues. (no reported issues) As of this year we are using a new resin. To date.. we have put some pretty harsh materials in them with no effect. For the last several months they have had both 10% and 85% ethanol fuels in them and no effect. I will not go into the details of the resins as it is proprietary information. Fly Safe !! John & Debra McBean 208.337.5111 www.kitfoxaircraft.com "It's not how Fast... It's how Fun!" -----Original Message----- From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Catz631@aol.com Sent: Sunday, February 17, 2008 6:26 AM Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: cracks in wing tank sealant Deke,Lee and Lynn ,Thanks for your input. I am now reconcidering removing the wings and cleaning the tanks with the tanks in place. I read the Alaska account and prior threads on that method.It just seemed that the removal and application of the Kreem would not work well but maybe so. I am using nothing but auto fuel in my 912UL and so far it does not have alcohol but it will be coming I know.Our governor is "hot on the trail" for it's use here in Florida.Is there nothing better than Kreem ? Is it affected by alcohol in the fuel? Lynn,I read in the info about the plastic tanks that the installation proceedure requires cutting out the tops of the fiberglass tanks and installing each 5 gal tank in the cavity then covering the top of the tanks with 1/8 " plywood and then recovering.I wonder if that would be structuraly strong enough if the fiberglas tanks were required as part of the wing structure ? I do know that a set of 4 tanks(20 gal) would be expensive (about $1100) Dick Maddux Fox 4-1200 Rotax 912UL Pensacola,Fl _____ Delicious ideas to please the pickiest eaters. Watch the video on AOL Living. <http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-du ffy/2050827?NCID=aolcmp00300000002598> 2:16 PM


    Message 8


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    Time: 09:34:57 AM PST US
    From: Mike Chaney <poasttown@yahoo.com>
    Subject: Re: horizontal stabilizer
    Lynn My original is the same as yours, one piece V shaped. The one I have been flying with for years has the 1/8 inch diameter threaded end that goes into the rod end. Skystar at the time suggested that all of the 1/8 in style be replaced with what was larger, it looks like about 1/4 inch bold welded into the end of the tube. I finally decided to make the change so I placed the order. I received four tubes, two for each side. Each tube has a rod end and is flattened on the other end. This replacement seemed pretty simple, take the old off and put the new on. Kitfox did not send any instructions so I just figured it was obviously simple. I was told by Skystar that I should make the modification as few years ago at Oshkosh. Is this modification for my 1994 model IV a one piece V shaped part as my origional and as you described or is it the two seperate tubes as they sent me? Mike Chaney Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt@jps.net> wrote: Were there four individual struts, or two struts V'd together? From your description it sounds like they sent you four struts/tubes. My Model IV struts came from the factory as two V-shaped struts...one left side and one right side. ...... Lynn Matteson Grass Lake, Michigan Kitfox IV Speedster w/Jabiru 2200 flying w/470+ hrs On Feb 16, 2008, at 8:58 PM, Mike Chaney wrote: > This concerns the horizontal stabilizer struts on a Model IV. I > purchased the beefed up horizontal stabilizer struts from Kitfox > and was installing them and ran into a problem. When they made the > struts they flatten one end ot the tubing to provide a flat area to > attach to the single tab on the fuseledge. I attached the rod ends > to the horizontal stabilizer but when I tried to attach the struts > to the fuseledge tab the rounded portions of the struts touched > preventing the flattened areas to go together. I suppose I could > add washers to fix this problem but I would think the flattened > areas of the struts should go together and touch the tab. > > Any suggestions? > > Mike Chaney > > > www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List _- > www.matronics.com/contribution _- > =========================================================== --------------------------------- Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now.


    Message 9


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    Time: 10:04:12 AM PST US
    From: Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no>
    Subject: cracks in wing tank sealant
    > From: jdmcbean [jdmcbean@kitfoxaircraft.com] > I will not go into the details of the resins as it is proprietary > information. Of course, John! But could that resin be sloshed in older tanks? Cheers, Michel Verheughe Norway Kitfox 3 - Jabiru 2200 <pre><b><font size=2 color="#000000" face="courier new,courier"> </b></font></pre></body></html>


    Message 10


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    Time: 10:34:12 AM PST US
    From: "fox5flyer" <fox5flyer@idealwifi.net>
    Subject: Re: cracks in wing tank sealant
    > I'd be the last one to comment intelligently about the wing/tank > structural element, but it sounds like maybe if you left enough of > the lip around the fiberglas tank that it might work, provided that > you got a good bond with the plywood. Wait a minute though....there > are baffles inside the f'glas tank that attach to the tank top, and > I'm sure that these would have to go if you were to cut the tank top > off. I'm pretty sure that these baffles add a bunch of structural > strength to the tank, and resist the flexing or twisting of the wing. > I'm no engineer, but I think if the original tank plays the important > role in wing construction that I've read here, maybe just adding the > plywood...even the best aircraft grade...wouldn't be enough. But if > you could tie the plywood into the baffles somehow, then maybe.... Good points Lynn. All this talk has reminded me of old--some of them very old--discussions regarding the wing tanks being structural. The question in my mind was then, and still is, "Are the wing tanks required for structural integrity or do the wing tanks become a part of the structure when they're installed?" In my mind it would be the latter. The wing tanks were not initially part of Kitfox wings. They evolved from the (1) panel tank to a (2) panel tank and six gallon aluminum tank on one side to a (3) to a six gallon aluminum tank on each side to the (4) 12 gallon glass tanks that we now have. As I recall there are some out there with a 6 on one side and a 12 on the other. Installing the new poly tanks inside the existing tanks shouldn't be any problem nor, IMO, would it require any additional bracing other than the recommended sheet of plywood on top for protection. Personally, I agree with what Lynn said. Clean them up, reslosh if you must, then run 100LL if worried about the Ethanol. You can run a lot of that stuff through there for the money it would cost to replace the tanks. Another thing is that the ethanol can be diluted by going 50/50 with Ethanol auto gas and 100LL. Another note. The sloshing was applied not to protect the tanks against chemicals, but to fill in and seal the tiny pin holes in the tanks from the fiberglass weave that caused fuel to wick/seep through the fibers creating a smelly tank. This was all done before Ethanol was a factor. As for whether Kreem is a good product or not, be sure to get your facts before you pass on anecdotal evidence gleaned over the The mighty internet. I always approach anything I read on the net with a healthy dose of skepticism. Kreem has been around a long time and it is used in many types of tanks, not just aircraft. When all of this started, other than Randolph, Kreem was about all we had. Now there are other options of course, which is a good thing. So, before you make a decision on what course of action you take, if any, I suggest you do some research. This Ethanol stuff is still evolving and products will keep emerging as the evolution takes place. FWI W... Deke Morisse Mikado Michigan S5/Subaru/CAP 355+ TT "The aim of an argument or discussion should not be victory, but progress." - Joseph Joubert


    Message 11


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    Time: 11:18:57 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: cracks in wing tank sealant
    From: "dave" <dave@cfisher.com>
    Deke said > Another note. The sloshing was applied not to protect the tanks against chemicals, but to fill in and seal the tiny pin holes in the tanks from the fiberglass weave that caused fuel to wick/seep through the fibers creating a smelly tank. This was all done before Ethanol was a factor. And Dave said > Also I have No creme in my tanks nor would i ever put it it to a perfectly good tank. Michel said > Of course, John! But could that resin be sloshed in older tanks? GREAT QUESTION !! Like i said I have put thousands of gallon of gas through my tanks that are from 1992 .Gas has varied from Premium,marine gas pump fuel,av-gas and Regular gar for the most part and what ever resin is in mines has held up so far . About 3 or 4 year ago I had a quick drain valve fell out in my hand. I kneaded together some epoxy stick and stuffed it in there and it never leaked since. I use same epoxy putty on main fuel dash tank for pipe thread sealer and for the nuts to hold dash on. they pulled right out once leaving a hole right into the tank. -------- Rotax Dealer, Ontario Canada Flying Videos and Kitfox Info http://www.cfisher.com/ Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=164622#164622


    Message 12


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    Time: 11:24:40 AM PST US
    From: Steve Shinabery <shinco@bright.net>
    Subject: Kit Fox Fly In Sun.May 11th
    Great Lakes Area Kitfox Fly In,,when: Sunday May 11th,2008, at 12:00 noon.,,,where: Lake Field Airport,[CQA] Celina Ohio,,,west central Ohio,,we have a web site go to Lake Field Airport,Celina Ohio,,Lunch at 12:00 noon.all so I will buy all KF pilot flying in there KF Lunch,,all so going to have a BOMB drop contest,,and spot landing contest..after lunch.,,are airport is at the south west corner of Grand Lake , St.Marys the largest lake in Ohio.and we all so have a float plane area on the north side of the lake.but we do not have access to lake field airport from there.And if you do not have a Kitfox fly in what you have...This is Home base to Steve Shinabery,and N554KF KF2 with the little 582 rotax..


    Message 13


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    Time: 12:24:06 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: horizontal stabilizer
    From: "Tom Jones" <nahsikhs@elltel.net>
    > I attached the rod ends to the horizontal stabilizer but when I tried to attach the struts to the fuseledge tab the rounded portions of the struts touched preventing the flattened areas to go together. I suppose I could add washers to fix this problem but I would think the flattened areas of the struts should go together and touch the tab. > > Any suggestions? Mike, the front strut goes on top of the fuselage tab and the bottom strut goes on the bottom of the fuselage tab. Mine do not touch each other but if they did I would install washer(s) for clearance. You may need to use a longer bolt if you need the extra washers. Also, the single piece V struts were the original struts. The modifications are the Two piece for each side (4 total) with two rod ends on each side for the outboard ends (front and rear). Picture of inboard ends attached. -------- Tom Jones Classic IV, Phase one 503 Rotax, 72 inch Two blade Warp Ellensburg, WA Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=164636#164636 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/horizontal_stab_strut_160.jpg


    Message 14


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    Time: 03:22:34 PM PST US
    From: Guy Buchanan <bnn@nethere.com>
    Subject: Re: Door Latching you really Like?
    At 07:07 PM 2/16/2008, bigboyz toyz wrote: >I saw a really cool setup on a helicopter it has pins that came out >and was operated from a central turning latch doohickey. > I am getting ready to install some bubble doors and was looking > for some kind of latching unit that is going to keep the door in > place and sealed tight. Hi Lee, Please put your aircraft type / status in your signature, it helps with the answers. (I also like to see full names and locations, too.) If you have a IV or earlier, then Lynn just posted a very neat installation last week. It uses two pins fore and aft with a center crank. I went for a simple latch down low. Murle Williams makes one that I couldn't get to work so I fabricated one out of aluminum. (Pictures tomorrow.) Guy Buchanan San Diego, CA K-IV 1200 / 582-C / Warp / 100% done, thanks mostly to Bob Ducar.


    Message 15


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    Time: 03:22:34 PM PST US
    From: Guy Buchanan <bnn@nethere.com>
    Subject: Re: horizontal stabilizer
    At 05:58 PM 2/16/2008, you wrote: >I suppose I could add washers to fix this problem but I would think >the flattened areas of the struts should go together and touch the tab. Two possibilities: 1. Bend the outboard edges of the fuselage tab up to conform to the struts using a crescent wrench. 2. Grind the fuselage tab back. You only require one full hole diameter of metal outside the hole for full strength. (Probably 3/16") Guy Buchanan San Diego, CA K-IV 1200 / 582-C / Warp / 100% done, thanks mostly to Bob Ducar.


    Message 16


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    Time: 03:29:17 PM PST US
    From: Clint Bazzill <clint_bazzill@hotmail.com>
    Subject: Door Latching you really Like?
    What is wrong with the single nylon wing vent type on bottom of door. Simp le, easy and full proof and perfect fit, fast and cheap. Clint tfox-List: Door Latching you really Like?To: kitfox-list@matronics.com OK Group, Yes I have posted a lot because there is no sense in re inventing the wheel , there are so great Kitfox minds to pull from on the list. So what is the VERY best way to make, build, adapt some type of latching unit for the door s? I saw a really cool setup on a helicopter it has pins that came out and was operated from a central turning latch doohickey. I am getting ready to install some bubble doors and was looking for some k ind of latching unit that is going to keep the door in place and sealed tig ht. I am thinking of building the door frames either from scratch or by alterin g a set that some one might have and wants to part with reasonably. I could Tig, Machine, ETC. something together that would not be any problem so there is no limit to your creativity. Thanks to All Lee Keep your feet on the peddels and keep reaching for the sky!!!! Lee


    Message 17


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    Time: 04:17:32 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Door Latching you really Like?
    From: "dave" <dave@cfisher.com>
    > What is wrong with the single nylon wing vent type on bottom of door. Simple, easy and full proof and perfect fit, fast and cheap. Clint goes back to building101 = K>I>S>S and don't add extra weight that is not needed. btw had a great day yesterday Ski flying - I would rate it the best of season so far. Today Fz rain and now rain. freeze up and snow tomorrow looks like . Winter flying is great, hard to believe that alot just put theirs away when the best performance can be had plus a Zillion places to land. -------- Rotax Dealer, Ontario Canada Flying Videos and Kitfox Info http://www.cfisher.com/ Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=164688#164688


    Message 18


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    Time: 05:07:29 PM PST US
    From: "fox5flyer" <fox5flyer@idealwifi.net>
    Subject: Re: Door Latching you really Like?
    Clint, that is what I have on my Five. Very simple, weigh almost nothing, and best of all, they work. I think Murle Williams sells them as a kit. Deke Morisse Mikado Michigan S5/Subaru/CAP 355+ TT "The aim of an argument or discussion should not be victory, but progress." - Joseph Joubert ----- Original Message ----- From: Clint Bazzill To: kitfox-list@matronics.com Sent: Sunday, February 17, 2008 6:26 PM Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Door Latching you really Like? What is wrong with the single nylon wing vent type on bottom of door. Simple, easy and full proof and perfect fit, fast and cheap. Clint ------------------------------------------------------------------------- --- Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2008 19:07:28 -0800 From: bigboyzt0yz@yahoo.com Subject: Kitfox-List: Door Latching you really Like? To: kitfox-list@matronics.com OK Group, Yes I have posted a lot because there is no sense in re inventing the wheel, there are so great Kitfox minds to pull from on the list. So what is the VERY best way to make, build, adapt some type of latching unit for the doors? I saw a really cool setup on a helicopter it has pins that came out and was operated from a central turning latch doohickey. I am getting ready to install some bubble doors and was looking for some kind of latching unit that is going to keep the door in place and sealed tight. I am thinking of building the door frames either from scratch or by altering a set that some one might have and wants to part with reasonably. I could Tig, Machine, ETC. something together that would not be any problem so there is no limit to your creativity. Thanks to All Lee Keep your feet on the peddels and keep reaching for the sky!!!! Lee arget=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List p://forums.matronics.com blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution


    Message 19


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    Time: 05:36:45 PM PST US
    From: kerrjohna@comcast.net
    Subject: Re: cracks in wing tank sealant(could be titled wing structure._


    Message 20


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    Time: 05:47:18 PM PST US
    From: patrick reilly <patreilly43@hotmail.com>
    Subject: weight
    Lynn, Thanks for the heads up on air through the slot in the door. I am pla nning on attaching a piece of plastic to the handle pin against the inside of the door that will seal the slot. The slot will only be about 2" long by 1/4" high so a 3/4"x 4" piece of plastic should handle (no pun intended) i t. Do not archive Pat Reilly Mod 3 Rebuild Rockford IL> From: lynnmatt@jps.net> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: weight> Date : Sun, 17 Feb 2008 09:46:24 -0500> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com> > --> Kit fox-List message posted by: Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt@jps.net>> > Sounds like you've covered the bases, Pat. Don't forget that the > "slot in the door f or an exterior knob" will be a source of cold air > in the winter when the hawk blows through Rockford.> A pivoting handle outside will offer less cha nce of air leaks.> > Lynn> do not archive> On Feb 16, 2008, at 11:24 PM, pa trick reilly wrote:> > > Lynn, Thanks for the pics. I don't have the double tube in the > > center of the door. But, when I saw the bell crank the lig hts came > > on. I closed up the legs on a 3" pc of 1/16th x 1 1/2" alum an gle > > to grip the sides of my single mid door bar, drilled a hole in it, > > installed a 10-24 rivet nut for a 1/4" shoulder bolt for the bell > > c rank pivot and riveted it to that mid door bar 6 1/4 " back from > > the ex isting sprung front door latch. The bell crank is 1/4"x 1" > > alumninum st ock. I left it 4" longer on the bottom, bent it in to > > match the door an gle and drilled it full of lightening holes to use > > as the interior door handle. I'll run 1/8 x 3/4 aluminum actuator > > rods fore and aft after I drill them full of lightening holes, and > > add a pin in the bottom of th e handle sticking out a slot in the > > door for an exterior knob.> > Us ol d guys that cut our teeth fabricating motorcycle, streetrod, > > and racerc ar parts have it easy with these experimental airplanes, > > don't we?> >> > Old cars are fun, motorcycles are crazy, but airplanes they"re insane!> > > > Lovin it in Rockford!> >> > Pat Reilly> > Mod 3 Rebuild> >> >> >> > > F rom: lynnmatt@jps.net> > > Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: weight> > > Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2008 14:11:59 -0500> > > To: kitfox-list@matronics.com> > >> > > He re are two shots that I have, Pat. The kit that I had required> > > several parts to be made from stock that was furnished. Instructions> > > came wit h the kit as supplied in 1994.> > >> > >> >> > http://www.matronics.com/Nav igator?Kitfox-List_- > > ================ =================== _- > > forums.mat ronics.com_- > > =================== ================ _- > > contribution_- > > =============> > >


    Message 21


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    Time: 08:00:02 PM PST US
    From: "david yeamans" <dafox@ckt.net>
    Subject: Re: cracks in wing tank sealant
    I've had 91 octain fuel in my wing tanks sense 1993 and sometimes 100 LL and never had a problerm yet. Haven't used Ethanol fuel that I know of. David Yeamans Kitfox IV 1200 Rotax 582 and Rotax 912 UL 600 Hrs. ----- Original Message ----- From: jdmcbean To: kitfox-list@matronics.com Sent: Sunday, February 17, 2008 11:07 AM Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: cracks in wing tank sealant We have done some changes over that past 6 months... although I do not think our tanks as of 1996 to 2007 have had any specific issues. (no reported issues) As of this year we are using a new resin. To date.. we have put some pretty harsh materials in them with no effect. For the last several months they have had both 10% and 85% ethanol fuels in them and no effect. I will not go into the details of the resins as it is proprietary information. Fly Safe !! John & Debra McBean 208.337.5111 www.kitfoxaircraft.com "It's not how Fast... It's how Fun!" -----Original Message----- From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Catz631@aol.com Sent: Sunday, February 17, 2008 6:26 AM To: kitfox-list@matronics.com Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: cracks in wing tank sealant Deke,Lee and Lynn ,Thanks for your input. I am now reconcidering removing the wings and cleaning the tanks with the tanks in place. I read the Alaska account and prior threads on that method.It just seemed that the removal and application of the Kreem would not work well but maybe so. I am using nothing but auto fuel in my 912UL and so far it does not have alcohol but it will be coming I know.Our governor is "hot on the trail" for it's use here in Florida.Is there nothing better than Kreem ? Is it affected by alcohol in the fuel? Lynn,I read in the info about the plastic tanks that the installation proceedure requires cutting out the tops of the fiberglass tanks and installing each 5 gal tank in the cavity then covering the top of the tanks with 1/8 " plywood and then recovering.I wonder if that would be structuraly strong enough if the fiberglas tanks were required as part of the wing structure ? I do know that a set of 4 tanks(20 gal) would be expensive (about $1100) Dick Maddux Fox 4-1200 Rotax 912UL Pensacola,Fl ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----- Delicious ideas to please the pickiest eaters. Watch the video on AOL Living. - The Kitfox-List Email Forum - --> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS - --> http://forums.matronics.com - List Contribution Web Site - Thank you for your generous support! -Matt Dralle, List Admin. --> http://www.matronics.com/contribution


    Message 22


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    Time: 08:57:05 PM PST US
    From: RAY Gignac <kitfoxpilot@msn.com>
    Subject: Battery Re-Location?
    Has anyone on the list relocated the battery from the firewall to behind th e rear passenger seat? I was trying to install a larger battery but the cur rent plastic box will not allow for a larger battery. I have a sealed batt ery and was thinking of placing on a tray behind the seat and held in place with a steel band! I have a Model IV 1200. Ray Lee I know your lurking on the list right now! _________________________________________________________________ Shed those extra pounds with MSN and The Biggest Loser! http://biggestloser.msn.com/


    Message 23


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    Time: 11:33:37 PM PST US
    Subject: Kitfox IV speed Range
    From: "bigboyzt0yz" <bigboyzt0yz@yahoo.com>
    I was thinking about changing my 70 hour 912UL for a 912ULS so that it has a greater top speed cruise. I was wondering is it better to ad all the fairings to the struts and rods on the whole plane? Along with Wheel pants and Spring gear to clean it up a bit. Or do I keep the same motor and add a in flight adjustable unit to the current prop drive. What is the expected flight speed for the plane in general? I know the Vne is listed at 140 Knots and with a Sport Pilot ticket you are not supposed to fly over 120 knots. so is there a limit to how fast that air foil shape is expected to go. My plane is 675 Lbs and has a 80 hp so where is the brick wall for how far you can really go? (The 701 kinda maxes out at 85 MPH with the tall airfoil) I do like flying slower looking at all the sights below, but some times you just want to get there sooner and so far this plane will do both pretty well. Along with being able to get into some pretty short fields. I will be flying (next year after we build the plane together) with a friend that has a Sonex on order and is going to put in a Jab. 3300 in it. Or just tell him to deal with the fact that he will have to just fly slower or leave later. -------- Lee Fritz in owings Mills Md. 2002 KitFox-IV Classic/912UL/Warp drive prop/100% Complete (just adding the Extras now) /71 hours time on plane since Aug 07 &quot;Have your feet on the Pedals and keep reaching for the sky&quot;. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=164762#164762


    Message 24


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    Time: 11:57:29 PM PST US
    From: Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no>
    Subject: Battery Re-Location?
    > From: RAY Gignac [kitfoxpilot@msn.com] >I have a sealed battery and was thinking of placing on a tray behind the seat and >held in place with a steel band! I did that on my model 3 when I changed the 582 for a Jabiru, Ray. The Odessey 680 battery fits nicely right behind the seat, in the centerline, attached by a steel band and a snap locking device from yachts. Cheers, Michel Verheughe Norway Kitfox 3 - Jabiru 2200 <pre><b><font size=2 color="#000000" face="courier new,courier"> </b></font></pre></body></html>




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