Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:49 AM - Re: Kitfox IV speed Range (JC Propeller Design)
2. 02:54 AM - Re: horizontal stabilizer (Dave G.)
3. 04:19 AM - Re: Kitfox IV speed Range (fox5flyer)
4. 06:04 AM - Re: Battery Re-Location? (Dee Young)
5. 06:18 AM - Re: cracks in wing tank sealant(could be titled wing structure._ (Tom Jones)
6. 08:02 AM - Re: TUNDRA TIRES & WHEELS FOR SALE (Don McIntosh)
7. 08:29 AM - Re: cracks in wing tank sealant (jdmcbean)
8. 08:41 AM - Re: Battery Re-Location? (Noel Loveys)
9. 09:39 AM - Re: Kitfox IV speed Range (Guy Buchanan)
10. 09:39 AM - Re: TUNDRA TIRES & WHEELS FOR SALE (SkySteve)
11. 09:46 AM - Re: horizontal stabilizer (Lynn Matteson)
12. 09:50 AM - Re: Re: horizontal stabilizer (Lynn Matteson)
13. 09:56 AM - Strobe/position lights ()
14. 10:15 AM - Re: Kitfox IV speed Range (dave)
15. 10:19 AM - Re: Door Latching you really Like? (Lynn Matteson)
16. 10:40 AM - Re: horizontal stabilizer ()
17. 11:01 AM - Re: Door Latching you really Like? (dave)
18. 11:39 AM - About flying...off topic? (Lynn Matteson)
19. 11:46 AM - Re: Strobe/position lights (SUE MICHAELS)
20. 12:11 PM - Re: horizontal stabilizer (Tom Jones)
21. 12:13 PM - Re: Strobe/position lights (jdmcbean)
22. 12:14 PM - Re: horizontal stabilizer (Clint Bazzill)
23. 12:47 PM - Re: Strobe/position lights (dcsfoto)
24. 01:39 PM - Re: Door Latching you really Like? (Clint Bazzill)
25. 02:39 PM - Re: Kitfox IV speed Range (JC Propeller Design)
26. 02:42 PM - Re: horizontal stabilizer (paul wilson)
27. 03:04 PM - Re: horizontal stabilizer (Mike Chaney)
28. 05:48 PM - Door Latch Pictures (Guy Buchanan)
29. 05:49 PM - Re: Re: Kitfox IV speed Range (Guy Buchanan)
30. 06:28 PM - Re: Door Latch Pictures (Steve Shinabery)
31. 06:32 PM - Re: horizontal stabilizer (Lynn Matteson)
32. 06:50 PM - Re: Door Latch Pictures (jeff puls)
33. 07:52 PM - Re: Re: Door Latching you really Like? (Guy Buchanan)
34. 08:06 PM - Re: Re: Door Latch Pictures (Guy Buchanan)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Kitfox IV speed Range |
Lee,
going from 80 to 100 hp will gain 7,7 % top speed, but the climb will be a
lot better.
If you have a sport license your plane isn't allowed to have in air
adjustable prop.
Fairings gain more speed and reduce fuel burn at cruise, (getting there
faster or flying with less power at same speed)
Jan
----- Original Message -----
From: "bigboyzt0yz" <bigboyzt0yz@yahoo.com>
Sent: Monday, February 18, 2008 8:29 AM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Kitfox IV speed Range
>
> I was thinking about changing my 70 hour 912UL for a 912ULS so that it has
> a greater top speed cruise. I was wondering is it better to ad all the
> fairings to the struts and rods on the whole plane? Along with Wheel pants
> and Spring gear to clean it up a bit. Or do I keep the same motor and add
> a in flight adjustable unit to the current prop drive. What is the
> expected flight speed for the plane in general? I know the Vne is listed
> at 140 Knots and with a Sport Pilot ticket you are not supposed to fly
> over 120 knots. so is there a limit to how fast that air foil shape is
> expected to go. My plane is 675 Lbs and has a 80 hp so where is the brick
> wall for how far you can really go? (The 701 kinda maxes out at 85 MPH
> with the tall airfoil) I do like flying slower looking at all the sights
> below, but some times you just want to get there sooner and so far this
> plane will do both pretty well. Along with being able to get into some
> pretty short fields.
> I will be flying (next year after we build the plane together) with a
> friend that has a Sonex on order and is going to put in a Jab. 3300 in it.
> Or just tell him to deal with the fact that he will have to just fly
> slower or leave later.
>
> --------
> Lee Fritz in owings Mills Md. 2002 KitFox-IV Classic/912UL/Warp drive
> prop/100% Complete (just adding the Extras now) /71 hours time on plane
> since Aug 07 "Have your feet on the Pedals and keep reaching for the
> sky".
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=164762#164762
>
>
> __________ NOD32 2838 (20080131) Information __________
>
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: horizontal stabilizer |
I've never seen the arrangement you're using, but have you tried placing one
strut below the tab and one above it?
Dave Goddard- Mod IV 1050/582
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Guy Buchanan" <bnn@nethere.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 17, 2008 2:57 PM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: horizontal stabilizer
>
> At 05:58 PM 2/16/2008, you wrote:
>>I suppose I could add washers to fix this problem but I would think the
>>flattened areas of the struts should go together and touch the tab.
>
> Two possibilities:
>
> 1. Bend the outboard edges of the fuselage tab up to conform to the struts
> using a crescent wrench.
>
> 2. Grind the fuselage tab back. You only require one full hole diameter of
> metal outside the hole for full strength. (Probably 3/16")
>
>
> Guy Buchanan
> San Diego, CA
> K-IV 1200 / 582-C / Warp / 100% done, thanks mostly to Bob Ducar.
>
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Kitfox IV speed Range |
Lee, the basic rule of thumb is more power will give you better climb, but
usually not much difference in speed. To get more speed you need to reduce
drag.
Reducing drag is a lot cheaper both up front and in the long run. It
usually has no effect on slow flight or stall characteristics, but increases
speed and reduces fuel per mile traveled. Your gph stays the same, but
enroute air time is reduced.
Deke Morisse
Mikado Michigan
S5/Subaru/CAP 355+ TT
"The aim of an argument or discussion should not be victory, but progress."
- Joseph Joubert
----- Original Message -----
From: "bigboyzt0yz" <bigboyzt0yz@yahoo.com>
Sent: Monday, February 18, 2008 2:29 AM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Kitfox IV speed Range
>
> I was thinking about changing my 70 hour 912UL for a 912ULS so that it has
> a greater top speed cruise. I was wondering is it better to ad all the
> fairings to the struts and rods on the whole plane? Along with Wheel pants
> and Spring gear to clean it up a bit. Or do I keep the same motor and add
> a in flight adjustable unit to the current prop drive. What is the
> expected flight speed for the plane in general? I know the Vne is listed
> at 140 Knots and with a Sport Pilot ticket you are not supposed to fly
> over 120 knots. so is there a limit to how fast that air foil shape is
> expected to go. My plane is 675 Lbs and has a 80 hp so where is the brick
> wall for how far you can really go? (The 701 kinda maxes out at 85 MPH
> with the tall airfoil) I do like flying slower looking at all the sights
> below, but some times you just want to get there sooner and so far this
> plane will do both pretty well. Along with being able to get into some
> pretty short fields.
> I will be flying (next year after we build the plane together) with a
> friend that has a Sonex on order and is going to put in a Jab. 3300 in it.
> Or just tell him to deal with the fact that he will have to just fly
> slower or leave later.
>
> --------
> Lee Fritz in owings Mills Md. 2002 KitFox-IV Classic/912UL/Warp drive
> prop/100% Complete (just adding the Extras now) /71 hours time on plane
> since Aug 07 "Have your feet on the Pedals and keep reaching for the
> sky".
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=164762#164762
>
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Battery Re-Location? |
Ray, I installed my battery behind the seat. It sets between the cross
braces and is held in place by adel clamps. Works very well.
Dee Young
Model II
N345DY
Do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: RAY Gignac<mailto:kitfoxpilot@msn.com>
To: kitfox-list<mailto:kitfox-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 17, 2008 9:54 PM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Battery Re-Location?
Has anyone on the list relocated the battery from the firewall to
behind the rear passenger seat? I was trying to install a larger battery
but the current plastic box will not allow for a larger battery. I have
a sealed battery and was thinking of placing on a tray behind the seat
and held in place with a steel band! I have a Model IV 1200.
Ray
Lee I know your lurking on the list right now!
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
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avigator?Kitfox-List>
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Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: cracks in wing tank sealant(could be titled wing structure._ |
A kitfox wing without a fuel tank has a drag tube installed in those rib bays.
It is logical to figure that the wing tank provides that structure element at
least. I am not an engineer and I didn't stay in a Holiday Inn last night but
I have built Kitfox wings both with and without fuel tanks.
--------
Tom Jones
Classic IV, Phase one
503 Rotax, 72 inch Two blade Warp
Ellensburg, WA
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=164782#164782
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: TUNDRA TIRES & WHEELS FOR SALE |
Steve,
I am interested in this set of tires if you still have them. I have some questions
so contact me offlist. I tried emailing you direct last week, but no response.
--------
Don McIntosh
Kitfox Series 7 under construction
Jabiru 3300
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=164795#164795
Message 7
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| Subject: | cracks in wing tank sealant |
The original Kitfox Wing had a drag/anti braces where the tank is. When
looking at the instructions you would find that if one was to retrofit a
early model IV wing with a wing tank that the drag braces need to be
re-positioned..
Fly Safe !!
John & Debra McBean
208.337.5111
www.kitfoxaircraft.com
"It's not how Fast... It's how Fun!"
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of fox5flyer
Sent: Sunday, February 17, 2008 11:30 AM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: cracks in wing tank sealant
> I'd be the last one to comment intelligently about the wing/tank
> structural element, but it sounds like maybe if you left enough of
> the lip around the fiberglas tank that it might work, provided that
> you got a good bond with the plywood. Wait a minute though....there
> are baffles inside the f'glas tank that attach to the tank top, and
> I'm sure that these would have to go if you were to cut the tank top
> off. I'm pretty sure that these baffles add a bunch of structural
> strength to the tank, and resist the flexing or twisting of the wing.
> I'm no engineer, but I think if the original tank plays the important
> role in wing construction that I've read here, maybe just adding the
> plywood...even the best aircraft grade...wouldn't be enough. But if
> you could tie the plywood into the baffles somehow, then maybe....
Good points Lynn. All this talk has reminded me of old--some of them very
old--discussions regarding the wing tanks being structural. The question in
my mind was then, and still is, "Are the wing tanks required for structural
integrity or do the wing tanks become a part of the structure when they're
installed?" In my mind it would be the latter. The wing tanks were not
initially part of Kitfox wings. They evolved from the (1) panel tank to a
(2) panel tank and six gallon aluminum tank on one side to a (3) to a six
gallon aluminum tank on each side to the (4) 12 gallon glass tanks that we
now have. As I recall there are some out there with a 6 on one side and a
12 on the other.
Installing the new poly tanks inside the existing tanks shouldn't be any
problem nor, IMO, would it require any additional bracing other than the
recommended sheet of plywood on top for protection. Personally, I agree
with what Lynn said. Clean them up, reslosh if you must, then run 100LL if
worried about the Ethanol. You can run a lot of that stuff through there
for the money it would cost to replace the tanks. Another thing is that the
ethanol can be diluted by going 50/50 with Ethanol auto gas and 100LL.
Another note. The sloshing was applied not to protect the tanks against
chemicals, but to fill in and seal the tiny pin holes in the tanks from the
fiberglass weave that caused fuel to wick/seep through the fibers creating a
smelly tank. This was all done before Ethanol was a factor.
As for whether Kreem is a good product or not, be sure to get your facts
before you pass on anecdotal evidence gleaned over the The mighty internet.
I always approach anything I read on the net with a healthy dose of
skepticism. Kreem has been around a long time and it is used in many types
of tanks, not just aircraft. When all of this started, other than Randolph,
Kreem was about all we had. Now there are other options of course, which is
a good thing.
So, before you make a decision on what course of action you take, if any, I
suggest you do some research. This Ethanol stuff is still evolving and
products will keep emerging as the evolution takes place.
FWI W...
Deke Morisse
Mikado Michigan
S5/Subaru/CAP 355+ TT
"The aim of an argument or discussion should not be victory, but progress."
- Joseph Joubert
5:50 AM
Message 8
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| Subject: | Battery Re-Location? |
Sounds like a good idea...
Use cushion (Adel) clamps to attach your tray to the frame. Don't forget to
do an amendment to your W&B
Noel
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of RAY Gignac
Sent: Monday, February 18, 2008 1:24 AM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Battery Re-Location?
Has anyone on the list relocated the battery from the firewall to behind the
rear passenger seat? I was trying to install a larger battery but the
current plastic box will not allow for a larger battery. I have a sealed
battery and was thinking of placing on a tray behind the seat and held in
place with a steel band! I have a Model IV 1200.
Ray
Lee I know your lurking on the list right now!
_____
Shed those extra pounds with MSN and The Biggest Loser! Learn more.
<http://biggestloser.msn.com/>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Kitfox IV speed Range |
At 11:29 PM 2/17/2008, you wrote:
> I will be flying (next year after we build the plane together)
> with a friend that has a Sonex on order and is going to put in a
> Jab. 3300 in it. Or just tell him to deal with the fact that he
> will have to just fly slower or leave later.
This subject is currently being intensely discussed on the
Lancair list. In general:
1. Speed varies with the cube root of power. E.g. double the power,
get 26% more speed, or in the linear realm, to increase speed 1%,
increase power 3%.
2. Speed varies with the square root of the drag. E.g. half the drag
gives 41% more speed, or in the linear realm, to increase speed 1%,
decrease drag 2%.
3. Perhaps Jan can chime in with a way of quantifying the value of a
variable pitch prop, but the way I look at it is that you get to
cruise at max speed, but at a lower RPM. In other words, if I fly my
fixed pitch at 5800 rpm at a certain speed, then I'll be able to do
the same speed at 5000 rpm with a variable pitch prop.
The bottom line being that you probably get the most bang
for the buck with #2, drag decreases, followed by #3, the prop,
(assuming you're not Light Sport,) followed by #1, horsepower
increases. As for bang for the effort, switching to a variable pitch
prop is probably the easiest, followed by swapping to the S, followed
by drag reductions.
Guy Buchanan
San Diego, CA
K-IV 1200 / 582-C / Warp / 100% done, thanks mostly to Bob Ducar.
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: TUNDRA TIRES & WHEELS FOR SALE |
Don,
Sorry to hear you did not get a reply. I received several emails from people wanting
the tires/wheels. They were gone within 5 minutes of my original post.
I thought I had responded to all other emails telling them of the sale. Sorry
you were missed, it was unintentional.
--------
Steve Wilson
Huntsville, UT
Kitfox I-IV 85DD
912A / 3 Blade Warp Drive
Convertable Nosewheel & Tailwheel
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=164819#164819
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: horizontal stabilizer |
Mike-
I think you'll find that the original rod end was 3/16"...not
1/8"...at least mine was. No matter. What I was told was to replace
the 3/16" threaded end of the strut with a 1/4" threaded end, and use
a suitable rod end bearing on that new threaded end. What I did was
to buy AN490 threaded rod ends...at least that's what Aircraft Spruce
calls them. I was at Sun 'n' Fun and happened to find what I thought
I would need at one of the vendors there. I didn't know what size I
would need, as I hadn't cut the original strut open yet, so I bought
two each of three sizes. It turned out that the size I needed was the
one for use with 3/8" tubing of .035" wall thickness. Spruce calls
this part # AN490HT6P, and describes it as "used with tube size" ...
3/8"x .035" At $11.30 each, they aren't cheap...page 137 of the new
catalog. Then you'll have to find a rod end bearing of 1/4"-28
threaded female shank, with a .190" bore...or 3/16"...this is for
the #10 mounting bolt.
I just looked at the ends that I had cut off from my original struts,
and looking into the tubing I saw something that rather shocked
me...Skystar had used a socket head cap screw welded into the end of
the tubing instead of the proper AN490 threaded rod end. I suppose
this might be OK, but the AN490 has a MUCH longer area that goes into
the tube and therefore makes for a much more secure welded connection.
I looked at my plane yesterday, and the original (at least on my
plane) has the smaller diameter tube...3/8"...on the front, with the
threaded rod end bearing on it, and a larger diameter tube...didn't
measure it...on the rear. The rear tube is flat on both ends, and the
front tube intersects it at an angle, and is welded to it, near where
it attaches to the fuselage tab.
I can't speak to what Skystar had in mind sending you four tubes,
unless like Dave G. said, that you are to put one brace above the tab
and one below.
Lynn Matteson
Grass Lake, Michigan
Kitfox IV Speedster w/Jabiru 2200
flying w/475+ hrs
On Feb 17, 2008, at 12:31 PM, Mike Chaney wrote:
> Lynn
>
> My original is the same as yours, one piece V shaped. The one I
> have been flying with for years has the 1/8 inch diameter threaded
> end that goes into the rod end. Skystar at the time suggested that
> all of the 1/8 in style be replaced with what was larger, it looks
> like about 1/4 inch bold welded into the end of the tube.
>
> I finally decided to make the change so I placed the order. I
> received four tubes, two for each side. Each tube has a rod end
> and is flattened on the other end. This replacement seemed pretty
> simple, take the old off and put the new on. Kitfox did not send
> any instructions so I just figured it was obviously simple.
>
> I was told by Skystar that I should make the modification as few
> years ago at Oshkosh. Is this modification for my 1994 model IV a
> one piece V shaped part as my origional and as you described or is
> it the two seperate tubes as they sent me?
>
> Mike Chaney
>
> Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt@jps.net> wrote:
>
> Were there four individual struts, or two struts V'd together? From
> your description it sounds like they sent you four struts/tubes. My
> Model IV struts came from the factory as two V-shaped struts...one
> left side and one right side. ......
>
> Lynn Matteson
> Grass Lake, Michigan
> Kitfox IV Speedster w/Jabiru 2200
> flying w/470+ hrs
>
>
> On Feb 16, 2008, at 8:58 PM, Mike Chaney wrote:
>
> > This concerns the horizontal stabilizer struts on a Model IV. I
> > purchased the beefed up horizontal stabilizer struts from Kitfox
> > and was installing them and ran into a problem. When Be a better
> friend, newshound, and _-
> www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List _-
> www.matronics.com/contribution _-
> ===========================================================
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: horizontal stabilizer |
Nice picture, Tom...it looks like you had to lower your horizontal
stab, eh? (I've got the same "extra" holes in my fairing too.) : )
Lynn Matteson
Grass Lake, Michigan
Kitfox IV Speedster w/Jabiru 2200
flying w/475+ hrs
do not archive
On Feb 17, 2008, at 3:20 PM, Tom Jones wrote:
>
>
>> I attached the rod ends to the horizontal stabilizer but when I
>> tried to attach the struts to the fuseledge tab the rounded
>> portions of the struts touched preventing the flattened areas to
>> go together. I suppose I could add washers to fix this problem but
>> I would think the flattened areas of the struts should go together
>> and touch the tab.
>>
>> Any suggestions?
>
>
> Mike, the front strut goes on top of the fuselage tab and the
> bottom strut goes on the bottom of the fuselage tab. Mine do not
> touch each other but if they did I would install washer(s) for
> clearance. You may need to use a longer bolt if you need the extra
> washers.
>
> Also, the single piece V struts were the original struts. The
> modifications are the Two piece for each side (4 total) with two
> rod ends on each side for the outboard ends (front and rear).
>
> Picture of inboard ends attached.
>
> --------
> Tom Jones
> Classic IV, Phase one
> 503 Rotax, 72 inch Two blade Warp
> Ellensburg, WA
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=164636#164636
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/horizontal_stab_strut_160.jpg
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Strobe/position lights |
Just looking for some feedback on the Magnum Strobe Systems,either the dual
or triple systems that Kuntzleman Electronics Inc. sells. They are the cheapest
ones I have seen ($228). Has anyone installed them? How do they look and do
the have the hardware to install the on curved wing tips?---- Leon Morris/Classic
4 (94)/60%/engine undecided/Flower Mound,TX
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Kitfox IV speed Range |
Kitfox is a high drag airplane.
In flight prop might help a small amount but if you go coarser to a lower rpm like
you stated. 5800 to 5000 - i can tell you that your power curve drops off
quickly below 5800 rpm with your stock exhaust. Plus with the Skystar exhaust
mod which cost all 582 drivers about 5 hp.
So if you are cruising at 5800 rpm at 90 mph and drop to 5000 with a courser pitch
, I think will will not have enough power and will likely slow down and see
lower EGTs as you lug your engine down. 582 likes to run 5800 to 6000 rpm
with the stock exhaust. I can tell you that with my last few tuned pipes I have
made that I am getting a few more HP and better performance with less rpms
giving the same numbers as I was getting with stock setup. eg now at 5600 same
as I was doing at 6000 rpm + approx
I have a new Inflight prop here GSC with WARP blades that I will try in the spring unless it sells before. List is about 2200.00 http://www.hoverhawk.com/gtaprop.html this one has nickel leading edges ( 240$ option) . I will let it go for 1800$ plus shipping right now.
> if I fly my
> fixed pitch at 5800 rpm at a certain speed, then I'll be able to do
> the same speed at 5000 rpm with a variable pitch prop.
>
--------
Rotax Dealer, Ontario Canada
Flying Videos and Kitfox Info
http://www.cfisher.com/
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=164833#164833
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Door Latching you really Like? |
I've heard of occasions where the door blew open due to flex...Michel
in Norway comes to mind, but I may be wrong. I may be all wet, but
wasn't the double-pin door latch utilized on the Speedster for
exactly that reason? When I ran into turbulence in Tennessee last
year, that last thing I needed was to have the doors open. If you
think of the distance between the door hinges and a bottom-of-door
latch, and think of the flex that might occur in the aluminum-framed
door (mine, anyway) I feel a lot safer with a mid-door (vertically
speaking) latch.
Perhaps the later models with their square-tubing doors (they are,
aren't they?) are built stronger and don't require this almost bullet-
proof latch. Sometimes in building, extra weight IS needed.
Lynn Matteson
Grass Lake, Michigan
Kitfox IV Speedster w/Jabiru 2200
flying w/475+ hrs
On Feb 17, 2008, at 6:26 PM, Clint Bazzill wrote:
> What is wrong with the single nylon wing vent type on bottom of
> door. Simple, easy and full proof and perfect fit, fast and
> cheap. Clint
>
> Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2008 19:07:28 -0800
> From: bigboyzt0yz@yahoo.com
> Subject: Kitfox-List: Door Latching you really Like?
> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
>
> OK Group,
>
> Yes I have posted a lot because there is no sense in re inventing
> the wheel, there are so great Kitfox minds to pull from on the
> list. So what is the VERY best way to make, build, adapt some type
> of latching unit for the doors? I saw a really cool setup on a
> helicopter it has pins that came out and was operated from a
> central turning latch doohickey.
> I am getting ready to install some bubble doors and was looking
> for some kind of latching unit that is going to keep the door in
> place and sealed tight.
>
> I am thinking of building the door frames either from scratch or by
> altering a set that some one might have and wants to part with
> reasonably.
>
> I could Tig, Machine, ETC. something together that would not be any
> problem so there is no limit to your creativity.
>
> Thanks to All
> Lee
>
>
> Keep your feet on the peddels and keep reaching for the sky!!!!
>
> Lee
>
> arget=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-Listp://
> forums.matronics.comblank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution_-
> ============================================================ _-
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List_-
> ============================================================ _-
> forums.matronics.com_-
> ============================================================ _-
> contribution_-
> ===========================================================
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: horizontal stabilizer |
You may have a defective strut that happened in the manufacturing process. I
had one that was too short. Called the factory and they sent me a replacement.
My struts are installed one above and one below the tab.---Leon Morris/Classic
4 (94)/60%/Flower Mound,TX
---- "Dave G." <occom@ns.sympatico.ca> wrote:
>
> I've never seen the arrangement you're using, but have you tried placing one
> strut below the tab and one above it?
>
> Dave Goddard- Mod IV 1050/582
> do not archive
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Guy Buchanan" <bnn@nethere.com>
> To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Sunday, February 17, 2008 2:57 PM
> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: horizontal stabilizer
>
>
> >
> > At 05:58 PM 2/16/2008, you wrote:
> >>I suppose I could add washers to fix this problem but I would think the
> >>flattened areas of the struts should go together and touch the tab.
> >
> > Two possibilities:
> >
> > 1. Bend the outboard edges of the fuselage tab up to conform to the struts
> > using a crescent wrench.
> >
> > 2. Grind the fuselage tab back. You only require one full hole diameter of
> > metal outside the hole for full strength. (Probably 3/16")
> >
> >
> > Guy Buchanan
> > San Diego, CA
> > K-IV 1200 / 582-C / Warp / 100% done, thanks mostly to Bob Ducar.
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Door Latching you really Like? |
> I've heard of occasions where the door blew open due to flex...
sure wakes you up :)
--------
Rotax Dealer, Ontario Canada
Flying Videos and Kitfox Info
http://www.cfisher.com/
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=164840#164840
Message 18
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| Subject: | About flying...off topic? |
I got a great flying tip from my flight instructor on Saturday. I was
flying him down to Benton Harbor (BEH) to pick up a plane he had to
deliver. We got out of his snow-covered turf field (and mine) with no
problem, and made it to BEH, but when coming in for landing, he
showed me something I hadn't thought of, He took control and first
let one wheel (wheel skis) touch, then the other, then gave the plane
back to me and I landed it. It makes sense to do this when using skis
or even when just using wheels in slushy snow or whenever the pilot
thinks there might be frozen wheels, brakes, etc. As he pointed out,
if a wheel/brake WAS frozen, we would have gone to a nearby turf
field or lake and landed using the skis, then freed up the problem,
then gone back to the paved field.
With 9" of snow locally...until the rain took it out yesterday...a
frozen wheel/brake stands a good chance of happening.
This might be old news to old-time pilots, but it was just another
lesson learned to this rookie. : )
Lynn Matteson
Grass Lake, Michigan
Kitfox IV Speedster w/Jabiru 2200
flying w/475+ hrs
do not archive
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Strobe/position lights |
If your wanting wing tip strobes with position lights combo unit you are looking at the wrong price. Now your talking $390.00 which opens things up. http://www.sportflyingshop.com/Safety/LED_Position_Lights/led_position_lights.html Sells a unit that I believe is little more streamlined unit with wiring for ten bucks more, but I bet if you call he will match. The strobe bulb and remote strobe box are from a major electronics firm for emergency equipment and lighting so parts should be always available and through other dealers. I just finished blending mine into the wing tips and about ready to prime so if you want pics let me know?
George
----- Original Message ----
From: "l.morris@tx.rr.com" <l.morris@tx.rr.com>
Sent: Monday, February 18, 2008 9:53:25 AM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Strobe/position lights
Just looking for some feedback on the Magnum Strobe Systems,either the dual or
triple systems that Kuntzleman Electronics Inc. sells. They are the cheapest
ones I have seen ($228). Has anyone installed them? How do they look and do the
have the hardware to install the on curved wing tips?---- Leon Morris/Classic
4 (94)/60%/engine undecided/Flower Mound,TX
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: horizontal stabilizer |
For anyone that might be wondering about the modified Horizontal stab lift struts.
I should correct my earlier post about them. I actually know of at least
three versions. My Kit was delivered in 1994 with the one piece V struts with
3/16 threaded rod on the front outboard end. Skystar soon produced the first
mod which was the two piece with 3/16 threaded rod on both outboard ends. Later
they suggested going to their third version which is the two piece with 1/4
threaded rod on both outboard ends.
For what its worth there were a few builders that had the 3/16 rod ends break.
I think all were noticed during preflight and don't know of any that were confirmed
to happen in flight. At least two were found when preflighting to leave
a fly in. My opinion is someone lifted the airplane by the horizontal stab
and broke it or someone even sat on it at the fly in.
> it looks like you had to lower your horizontal
> stab, eh? (I've got the same "extra" holes in my fairing too.) : )
Lynn, yes I started flight testing with the front bolt of the horizontal stab in
the top hole. I was flying with the CG near the foreword limit and it took
just a slight one finger back pressure on the stick to fly level. I couldn't
trim nose up because pulling a little flaperon trims the nose down.
I then moved the front bolt of the Horizontal stab to the middle hole. Now It
flys level hands off with the CG near the foreward limit and I can trim nose down
with the flaperons as the CG moves back to fly hands off. It doesn't take
much down flaperon trim and I can't see hardly any reduction in air speed.
I didn't want to add on a different pitch trim system. My Kitfox is very basic
and I like it that way. The only electrical accessory is the starter and I often
think about eliminating that.
--------
Tom Jones
Classic IV, Phase one
503 Rotax, 72 inch Two blade Warp
Ellensburg, WA
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=164852#164852
Message 21
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| Subject: | Strobe/position lights |
Those are the same lights we currently offer... We may have a complete LED
Nav and Strobes that should be available in April... Self contained and no
power supply box for the strobes.
Fly Safe !!
John & Debra McBean
208.337.5111
www.kitfoxaircraft.com
"It's not how Fast... It's how Fun!"
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of SUE MICHAELS
Sent: Monday, February 18, 2008 11:46 AM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Strobe/position lights
If your wanting wing tip strobes with position lights combo unit you are
looking at the wrong price. Now your talking $390.00 which opens things up.
http://www.sportflyingshop.com/Safety/LED_Position_Lights/led_position_light
s.html Sells a unit that I believe is little more streamlined unit with
wiring for ten bucks more, but I bet if you call he will match. The strobe
bulb and remote strobe box are from a major electronics firm for emergency
equipment and lighting so parts should be always available and through other
dealers. I just finished blending mine into the wing tips and about ready to
prime so if you want pics let me know?
George
----- Original Message ----
From: "l.morris@tx.rr.com" <l.morris@tx.rr.com>
Sent: Monday, February 18, 2008 9:53:25 AM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Strobe/position lights
Just looking for some feedback on the Magnum Strobe Systems,either the
dual or triple systems that Kuntzleman Electronics Inc. sells. They are the
cheapest ones I have seen ($228). Has anyone installed them? How do they
look and do the have the hardware to install the on curved wing tips?----
Leon Morris/Classic 4 (94)/60%/engine undecided/Flower Mound,TX
5:50 AM
5:50 AM
Message 22
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| Subject: | horizontal stabilizer |
If you decide to change out the rod end, it makes little sense to put anoth
er rod of larger size in its place. Just add a flattend tube as all the ad
justments that you needed for first flights etc are finshed. Clint> From:
lynnmatt@jps.net> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: horizontal stabilizer> Date: Mo
n, 18 Feb 2008 12:43:48 -0500> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com> > --> Kitfox-
List message posted by: Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt@jps.net>> > Mike-> I think
you'll find that the original rod end was 3/16"...not > 1/8"...at least min
e was. No matter. What I was told was to replace > the 3/16" threaded end o
f the strut with a 1/4" threaded end, and use > a suitable rod end bearing
on that new threaded end. What I did was > to buy AN490 threaded rod ends..
.at least that's what Aircraft Spruce > calls them. I was at Sun 'n' Fun an
d happened to find what I thought > I would need at one of the vendors ther
e. I didn't know what size I > would need, as I hadn't cut the original str
ut open yet, so I bought > two each of three sizes. It turned out that the
size I needed was the > one for use with 3/8" tubing of .035" wall thicknes
s. Spruce calls > this part # AN490HT6P, and describes it as "used with tub
e size" ... > 3/8"x .035" At $11.30 each, they aren't cheap...page 137 of t
he new > catalog. Then you'll have to find a rod end bearing of 1/4"-28 > t
hreaded female shank, with a .190" bore...or 3/16"...this is for > the #10
mounting bolt.> > I just looked at the ends that I had cut off from my orig
inal struts, > and looking into the tubing I saw something that rather shoc
ked > me...Skystar had used a socket head cap screw welded into the end of
> the tubing instead of the proper AN490 threaded rod end. I suppose > this
might be OK, but the AN490 has a MUCH longer area that goes into > the tub
e and therefore makes for a much more secure welded connection.> > I looked
at my plane yesterday, and the original (at least on my > plane) has the s
maller diameter tube...3/8"...on the front, with the > threaded rod end bea
ring on it, and a larger diameter tube...didn't > measure it...on the rear.
The rear tube is flat on both ends, and the > front tube intersects it at
an angle, and is welded to it, near where > it attaches to the fuselage tab
.> > I can't speak to what Skystar had in mind sending you four tubes, > un
less like Dave G. said, that you are to put one brace above the tab > and o
ne below.> > Lynn Matteson> Grass Lake, Michigan> Kitfox IV Speedster w/Jab
iru 2200> flying w/475+ hrs> > > On Feb 17, 2008, at 12:31 PM, Mike Chaney
wrote:> > > Lynn> >> > My original is the same as yours, one piece V shaped
. The one I > > have been flying with for years has the 1/8 inch diameter t
hreaded > > end that goes into the rod end. Skystar at the time suggested t
hat > > all of the 1/8 in style be replaced with what was larger, it looks
> > like about 1/4 inch bold welded into the end of the tube.> >> > I final
ly decided to make the change so I placed the order. I > > received four tu
bes, two for each side. Each tube has a rod end > > and is flattened on the
other end. This replacement seemed pretty > > simple, take the old off and
put the new on. Kitfox did not send > > any instructions so I just figured
it was obviously simple.> >> > I was told by Skystar that I should make th
e modification as few > > years ago at Oshkosh. Is this modification for my
1994 model IV a > > one piece V shaped part as my origional and as you des
cribed or is > > it the two seperate tubes as they sent me?> >> > Mike Chan
ey> >> > Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt@jps.net> wrote:> > --> Kitfox-List message
posted by: Lynn Matteson> >> > Were there four individual struts, or two s
truts V'd together? From> > your description it sounds like they sent you f
our struts/tubes. My> > Model IV struts came from the factory as two V-shap
ed struts...one> > left side and one right side. ......> >> > Lynn Matteson
> > Grass Lake, Michigan> > Kitfox IV Speedster w/Jabiru 2200> > flying w/4
70+ hrs> >> >> >> > On Feb 16, 2008, at 8:58 PM, Mike Chaney wrote:> >> > >
This concerns the horizontal stabilizer struts on a Model IV. I> > > purch
ased the beefed up horizontal stabilizer struts from Kitfox> > > and was in
stalling them and ran into a problem. When Be a better > > friend, newshoun
d, and _- > > www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List _- > > www.matronics.
com/contribution _- > > =================
====================> > >
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Strobe/position lights |
I have them,nav/strobe and a strobe on top of the tail.
love them, easy to install
David Model 7 and 3
do not arcive
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=164864#164864
Message 24
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| Subject: | Door Latching you really Like? |
I don't believe the door blows open. It is a cam lock like a window vent a
nd when installing the doors, bend frame slightly so the front closes first
, then the rear gets pulled in with perfect wind seal. I cut notches in th
e nylon to be able to open the door about 3/4 inch on bottom. This lets i
n a lot of air on those hot days. Also, have a small bunge that is used to
hold tarps etc connected in the old welding on the door. This allows me t
o reach and close the doors if I decide to fly with them open, taking pict
ures etc. Also have a small bolt and washer mounted just under the instrum
ent panel that I connect this little bunge to to prevent the door from flyi
ng open when in the cut out notch. Simple and easy, 10 times as good as my
friends double latch, also 10 times as cheap.
300 hours on this setup, would do it over again
Clint
P.S. I have flown in a number of planes with front and rear door latches, I
just do not like them.
> From: lynnmatt@jps.net> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Door Latching you reall
y Like?> Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2008 13:14:18 -0500> To: kitfox-list@matronics.c
> I've heard of occasions where the door blew open due to flex...Michel > i
n Norway comes to mind, but I may be wrong. I may be all wet, but > wasn't
the double-pin door latch utilized on the Speedster for > exactly that reas
on? When I ran into turbulence in Tennessee last > year, that last thing I
needed was to have the doors open. If you > think of the distance between t
he door hinges and a bottom-of-door > latch, and think of the flex that mig
ht occur in the aluminum-framed > door (mine, anyway) I feel a lot safer wi
th a mid-door (vertically > speaking) latch.> Perhaps the later models with
their square-tubing doors (they are, > aren't they?) are built stronger an
d don't require this almost bullet- > proof latch. Sometimes in building, e
xtra weight IS needed.> > Lynn Matteson> Grass Lake, Michigan> Kitfox IV Sp
eedster w/Jabiru 2200> flying w/475+ hrs> > > On Feb 17, 2008, at 6:26 PM,
Clint Bazzill wrote:> > > What is wrong with the single nylon wing vent typ
e on bottom of > > door. Simple, easy and full proof and perfect fit, fast
and > > cheap. Clint> >> > Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2008 19:07:28 -0800> > From: b
igboyzt0yz@yahoo.com> > Subject: Kitfox-List: Door Latching you really Like
?> > To: kitfox-list@matronics.com> >> > OK Group,> >> > Yes I have posted
a lot because there is no sense in re inventing > > the wheel, there are so
great Kitfox minds to pull from on the > > list. So what is the VERY best
way to make, build, adapt some type > > of latching unit for the doors? I s
aw a really cool setup on a > > helicopter it has pins that came out and wa
s operated from a > > central turning latch doohickey.> > I am getting read
y to install some bubble doors and was looking > > for some kind of latchin
g unit that is going to keep the door in > > place and sealed tight.> >> >
I am thinking of building the door frames either from scratch or by > > alt
ering a set that some one might have and wants to part with > > reasonably.
> >> > I could Tig, Machine, ETC. something together that would not be any
> > problem so there is no limit to your creativity.> >> > Thanks to All> >
Lee> >> >> >> >> > Keep your feet on the peddels and keep reaching for the
sky!!!!> >> > Lee> >> > arget=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?
Kitfox-Listp:// > > forums.matronics.comblank>http://www.matronics.com/cont
ribution_- > > ====================
=============== _- > > http://www.matronics.c
om/Navigator?Kitfox-List_- > > ==============
===================== _- > > foru
ms.matronics.com_- > > =================
================== _- > > contribution_
- > > =======================
===============> > >
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: Kitfox IV speed Range |
An in flight adjustable / constant speed prop on a slow (relative) plane
will gain some increase in climb, on a fast plane, it will make a big
difference. on a fast sleek plane with low power it will make all the
difference in take off and climb.
I am not sure how fast a Kitfox is with 912 80HP is, but lets say that This!
kitfox is doing 110 mph SL WOT at 1200 lbs.
with a fixed pitch 68" diameter prop it have a initial climb of 700 fpm.
with a constant speed prop 68" it will climb 940 fpm.
34% better.
With 912S 100 Hp and fixed pitch 960 fpm
100 hp and CS prop 1270 fpm
Assuming all the rest remain the same, I didn't check for different gear
ratio. max speed? 119 mph.
Propeller efficiency at 110 mph 77,5%
so total drag is 80 * 76 * 0,775 / 49 = 96 kg (212 lb)
Say you have total 60 feet (18 meter) of wingstrut
drag from faired struts will be 4 kg or 4% of total (plus interference
between strut and wing/fuselage)
Round tubes? 4 times more or so, that will eazy make a difference of 15
miles.
Jan
----- Original Message -----
From: "Guy Buchanan" <bnn@nethere.com>
Sent: Monday, February 18, 2008 6:35 PM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Kitfox IV speed Range
>
> At 11:29 PM 2/17/2008, you wrote:
>> I will be flying (next year after we build the plane together) with a
>> friend that has a Sonex on order and is going to put in a Jab. 3300 in
>> it. Or just tell him to deal with the fact that he will have to just fly
>> slower or leave later.
>
> This subject is currently being intensely discussed on the Lancair
> list. In general:
>
> 1. Speed varies with the cube root of power. E.g. double the power, get
> 26% more speed, or in the linear realm, to increase speed 1%, increase
> power 3%.
>
> 2. Speed varies with the square root of the drag. E.g. half the drag gives
> 41% more speed, or in the linear realm, to increase speed 1%, decrease
> drag 2%.
>
> 3. Perhaps Jan can chime in with a way of quantifying the value of a
> variable pitch prop, but the way I look at it is that you get to cruise at
> max speed, but at a lower RPM. In other words, if I fly my fixed pitch at
> 5800 rpm at a certain speed, then I'll be able to do the same speed at
> 5000 rpm with a variable pitch prop.
>
> The bottom line being that you probably get the most bang for the
> buck with #2, drag decreases, followed by #3, the prop, (assuming you're
> not Light Sport,) followed by #1, horsepower increases. As for bang for
> the effort, switching to a variable pitch prop is probably the easiest,
> followed by swapping to the S, followed by drag reductions.
>
>
> Guy Buchanan
> San Diego, CA
> K-IV 1200 / 582-C / Warp / 100% done, thanks mostly to Bob Ducar.
>
>
> __________ NOD32 2838 (20080131) Information __________
>
>
>
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: horizontal stabilizer |
Its NOT ok to weld a socket head cap screw the thing will become
brittle and would be subject to easy fracture with a little
vibration. They should all be replaced with the AN490 insert and the
appropriate rod end. Plenty of tube length when carefully measured, a
Simple fix. It is my belief that a stronger tube (thicker wall
thickness) is not required.
Be sure to switch from #10 threads to 1/4" threads.
Paul
==================
At 09:43 AM 2/18/2008, you wrote:
>I just looked at the ends that I had cut off from my original struts,
>and looking into the tubing I saw something that rather shocked
>me...Skystar had used a socket head cap screw welded into the end of
>the tubing instead of the proper AN490 threaded rod end. I suppose
>this might be OK, but the AN490 has a MUCH longer area that goes into
>the tube and therefore makes for a much more secure welded connection.
>
>
>Lynn Matteson
>Grass Lake, Michigan
>Kitfox IV Speedster w/Jabiru 2200
>flying w/475+ hrs
Message 27
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| Subject: | horizontal stabilizer |
Thanks to everyone who responded to my problem with the horizontal stabilizer struts.
I went back to the hanger today and decided that I could make it work
if I did sandwich the fuseledge tab and a thin spacer between the two struts.
The struts were too long so I had to cut off about 1/8 to 3/16 inch off the length
of the struts at the flatened area where it attaches to the fuseledge.
Mike Chaney
Clint Bazzill <clint_bazzill@hotmail.com> wrote:
.hmmessage P { margin:0px; padding:0px } body.hmmessage { FONT-SIZE:
10pt; FONT-FAMILY:Tahoma } If you decide to change out the rod end, it
makes little sense to put another rod of larger size in its place. Just add
a flattend tube as all the adjustments that you needed for first flights etc are
finshed. Clint
> From: lynnmatt@jps.net
> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: horizontal stabilizer
> Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2008 12:43:48 -0500
> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
>
>
> Mike-
> I think you'll find that the original rod end was 3/16"...not
> 1/8"...at least mine was. No matter. What I was told was to replace
> the 3/16" threaded end of the strut with a 1/4" threaded end, and use
> a suitable rod end bearing on that new threaded end. What I did was
> to buy AN490 threaded rod ends...at least that's what Aircraft Spruce
> calls them. I was at Sun 'n' Fun and happened to find what I thought
> I would need at one of the vendors there. I didn't know what size I
> would need, as I hadn't cut the original strut open yet, so I bought
> two each of three sizes. It turned out that the size I needed was the
> one for use with 3/8" tubing of .035" wall thickness. Spruce calls
> this part # AN490HT6P, and describes it as "used with tube size" ...
> 3/8"x .035" At $11.30 each, they aren't cheap...page 137 of the new
> catalog. Then you'll have to find a rod end bearing of 1/4"-28
> threaded female shank, with a .190" bore...or 3/16"...this is for
> the #10 mounting bolt.
>
> I just looked at the ends that I had cut off from my original struts,
> and looking into the tubing I saw something that rather shocked
> me...Skystar had used a socket head cap screw welded into the end of
> the tubing instead of the proper AN490 threaded rod end. I suppose
> this might be OK, but the AN490 has a MUCH longer area that goes into
> the tube and therefore makes for a much more secure welded connection.
>
> I looked at my plane yesterday, and the original (at least on my
> plane) has the smaller diameter tube...3/8"...on the front, with the
> threaded rod end bearing on it, and a larger diameter tube...didn't
> measure it...on the rear. The rear tube is flat on both ends, and the
> front tube intersects it at an angle, and is welded to it, near where
> it attaches to the fuselage tab.
>
> I can't speak to what Skystar had in mind sending you four tubes,
> unless like Dave G. said, that you are to put one brace above the tab
> and one below.
>
> Lynn Matteson
> Grass Lake, Michigan
> Kitfox IV Speedster w/Jabiru 2200
> flying w/475+ hrs
>
>
> On Feb 17, 2008, at 12:31 PM, Mike Chaney wrote:
>
> > Lynn
> >
> > My original is the same as yours, one piece V shaped. The one I
> > have been flying with for years has the 1/8 inch diameter threaded
> > end that goes into the rod end. Skystar at the time suggested that
> > all of the 1/8 in style be replaced with what was larger, it looks
> > like about 1/4 inch bold welded into the end of the tube.
> >
> > I finally decided to make the change so I placed the order. I
> > received four tubes, two for each side. Each tube has a rod end
> > and is flattened on the other end. This replacement seemed pretty
> > simple, take the old off and put the new on. Kitfox did not send
> > any instructions so I just figured it was obviously simple.
> >
> > I was told by Skystar that I should make the modification as few
> > years ago at Oshkosh. Is this modification for my 1994 model IV a
> > one piece V shaped part as my origional and as you described or is
> > it the two seperate tubes as they sent me?
> >
> > Mike Chaney
> >
> > Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt@jps.net> wrote:
> >
> > Were there four individual struts, or two struts V'd together? From
> > your description it sounds like they sent you four struts/tubes. My
> > Model IV struts came from the factory as two V-shaped struts...one
> > left side and one right side. ......
> >
> > Lynn Matteson
> > Grass Lake, Michigan
> > Kitfox IV Speedster w/Jabiru 2200
> > flying w/470+ hrs
> >
> >
> >
> > On Feb 16, 2008, at 8:58 PM, Mike Chaney wrote:
> >
> > > This concerns the horizontal stabilizer struts on a Model IV. I
> > > purchased the beefed up horizontal stabilizer struts from Kitfox
> > > and was installing them and ran into a problem. When Be a better
> > friend, newshound, and _-
> > www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List _-
> > www.matronics.com/contribution _-
> > ==================================
>
>
>
---------------------------------
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Message 28
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| Subject: | Door Latch Pictures |
Attached please find the promised door latch pictures. The
lug in photo 2 was bought with Murle's kit. I couldn't make his kit
work because the latch wasn't long enough to reach my sill. (It could
have been made to work with some tube bending and counter-sunk
screws.) I made this latch because it self aligns and "snaps" when
closed. I used wave springs to provide enough friction to keep the
latch where you left it last.
Guy Buchanan
San Diego, CA
K-IV 1200 / 582-C / Warp / 100% done, thanks mostly to Bob Ducar.
Message 29
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| Subject: | Re: Kitfox IV speed Range |
At 10:12 AM 2/18/2008, you wrote:
>In flight prop might help a small amount but if you go coarser to a
>lower rpm like you stated. 5800 to 5000 - i can tell you that your
>power curve drops off quickly below 5800 rpm with your stock
>exhaust. Plus with the Skystar exhaust mod which cost all 582
>drivers about 5 hp.
Sorry for the confusion Dave, I was talking 912 RPM, not
582. (Yes I have a 582, but know some of the 912 #'s.)
Guy Buchanan
San Diego, CA
K-IV 1200 / 582-C / Warp / 100% done, thanks mostly to Bob Ducar.
Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: Door Latch Pictures |
Guy Buchanan wrote:
> Attached please find the promised door latch pictures. The lug
> in photo 2 was bought with Murle's kit. I couldn't make his kit work
> because the latch wasn't long enough to reach my sill. (It could have
> been made to work with some tube bending and counter-sunk screws.) I
> made this latch because it self aligns and "snaps" when closed. I used
> wave springs to provide enough friction to keep the latch where you
> left it last.
>
>
> Guy Buchanan
> San Diego, CA
> K-IV 1200 / 582-C / Warp / 100% done, thanks mostly to Bob Ducar.
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
Guy,,,That is some nice work..Steve Shinabery N554KF KF2
Message 31
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| Subject: | Re: horizontal stabilizer |
If they were too long, I'd check and see if the hort. stab is
straight and level, and not drooping. If it is, it will make the
elevator hard to work, as the hinge line will be curved instead of a
straight line.
Lynn Matteson
Grass Lake, Michigan
Kitfox IV Speedster w/Jabiru 2200
flying w/475+ hrs
On Feb 18, 2008, at 5:59 PM, Mike Chaney wrote:
> Thanks to everyone who responded to my problem with the horizontal
> stabilizer struts. I went back to the hanger today and decided
> that I could make it work if I did sandwich the fuseledge tab and a
> thin spacer between the two struts. The struts were too long so I
> had to cut off about 1/8 to 3/16 inch off the length of the struts
> at the flatened area where it attaches to the fuseledge.
>
> Mike Chaney
>
> Clint Bazzill <clint_bazzill@hotmail.com> wrote:
> If you decide to change out the rod end, it makes little sense to
> put another rod of larger size in its place. Just add a flattend
> tube as all the adjustments that you needed for first flights etc
> are finshed. Clint
>
> > From: lynnmatt@jps.net
> > Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: horizontal stabilizer
> > Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2008 12:43:48 -0500
> > To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
> >
> >
> > Mike-
> > I think you'll find that the original rod end was 3/16"...not
> > 1/8"...at least mine was. No matter. What I was told was to replace
> > the 3/16" threaded end of the strut with a 1/4" threaded end, and
> use
> > a suitable rod end bearing on that new threaded end. What I did was
> > to buy AN490 threaded rod ends...at least that's what Aircraft
> Spruce
> > calls them. I was at Sun 'n' Fun and happened to find what I thought
> > I would need at one of the vendors there. I didn't know what size I
> > would need, as I hadn't cut the original strut open yet, so I bought
> > two each of three sizes. It turned out that the size I needed was
> the
> > one for use with 3/8" tubing of .035" wall thickness. Spruce calls
> > this part # AN490HT6P, and describes it as "used with tube size" ...
> > 3/8"x .035" At $11.30 each, they aren't cheap...page 137 of the new
> > catalog. Then you'll have to find a rod end bearing of 1/4"-28
> > threaded female shank, with a .190" bore...or 3/16"...this is for
> > the #10 mounting bolt.
> >
> > I just looked at the ends that I had cut off from my original
> struts,
> > and looking into the tubing I saw something that rather shocked
> > me...Skystar had used a socket head cap screw welded into the end of
> > the tubing instead of the proper AN490 threaded rod end. I suppose
> > this might be OK, but the AN490 has a MUCH longer area that goes
> into
> > the tube and therefore makes for a much more secure welded
> connection.
> >
> > I looked at my plane yesterday, and the original (at least on my
> > plane) has the smaller diameter tube...3/8"...on the front, with the
> > threaded rod end bearing on it, and a larger diameter tube...didn't
> > measure it...on the rear. The rear tube is flat on both ends, and
> the
> > front tube intersects it at an angle, and is welded to it, near
> where
> > it attaches to the fuselage tab.
> >
> > I can't speak to what Skystar had in mind sending you four tubes,
> > unless like Dave G. said, that you are to put one brace above the
> tab
> > and one below.
> >
> > Lynn Matteson
> > Grass Lake, Michigan
> > Kitfox IV Speedster w/Jabiru 2200
> > flying w/475+ hrs
> >
> >
> > On Feb 17, 2008, at 12:31 PM, Mike Chaney wrote:
> >
> > > Lynn
> > >
> > > My original is the same as yours, one piece V shaped. The one I
> > > have been flying with for years has the 1/8 inch diameter threaded
> > > end that goes into the rod end. Skystar at the time suggested that
> > > all of the 1/8 in style be replaced with what was larger, it looks
> > > like about 1/4 inch bold welded into the end of the tube.
> > >
> > > I finally decided to make the change so I placed the order. I
> > > received four tubes, two for each side. Each tube has a rod end
> > > and is flattened on the other end. This replacement seemed pretty
> > > simple, take the old off and put the new on. Kitfox did not send
> > > any instructions so I just figured it was obviously simple.
> > >
> > > I was told by Skystar that I should make the modification as few
> > > years ago at Oshkosh. Is this modification for my 1994 model IV a
> > > one piece V shaped part as my origional and as you described or is
> > > it the two seperate tubes as they sent me?
> > >
> > > Mike Chaney
> > >
> > > Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt@jps.net> wrote:
> > >
> > > Were there four individual struts, or two struts V'd together?
> From
> > > your description it sounds like they sent you four struts/
> tubes. My
> > > Model IV struts came from the factory as two V-shaped struts...one
> > > left side and one right side. ......
> > >
> > > Lynn Matteson
> > > Grass Lake, Michigan
> > > Kitfox IV Speedster w/Jabiru 2200
> > > flying w/470+ hrs
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > On Feb 16, 2008, at 8:58 PM, Mike Chaney wrote:
> > >
> > > > This concerns the horizontal stabilizer struts on a Model IV. I
> > > > purchased the beefed up horizontal stabilizer struts from Kitfox
> > > > and was installing them and ran into a problem. When Be a better
> > > friend, newshound, and _-
> > > www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List _-Be a better friend,
> newshound, and_-
> ============================================================ _-
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List_-
> ============================================================ _-
> forums.matronics.com_-
> ============================================================ _-
> contribution_-
> ===========================================================
Message 32
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| Subject: | Re: Door Latch Pictures |
Gary,
Quick questions, does your window fit flush with the opening or does it
overlap the opening. I believe that if my window overlapped I wouldn't have
the problem of the window bowing out in flight. Jeff Classic IV CMH
----- Original Message -----
From: "Guy Buchanan" <bnn@nethere.com>
Sent: Monday, February 18, 2008 8:40 PM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Door Latch Pictures
> Attached please find the promised door latch pictures. The
> lug in photo 2 was bought with Murle's kit. I couldn't make his kit
> work because the latch wasn't long enough to reach my sill. (It could
> have been made to work with some tube bending and counter-sunk
> screws.) I made this latch because it self aligns and "snaps" when
> closed. I used wave springs to provide enough friction to keep the
> latch where you left it last.
>
>
> Guy Buchanan
> San Diego, CA
> K-IV 1200 / 582-C / Warp / 100% done, thanks mostly to Bob Ducar.
Message 33
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| Subject: | Re: Door Latching you really Like? |
At 10:14 AM 2/18/2008, you wrote:
>If you
>think of the distance between the door hinges and a bottom-of-door
>latch, and think of the flex that might occur in the aluminum-framed
>door (mine, anyway) I feel a lot safer with a mid-door (vertically
>speaking) latch.
The bubble doors are incredibly stiff, (and incredibly
heavy,) and will mitigate this problem.
Guy Buchanan
San Diego, CA
K-IV 1200 / 582-C / Warp / 100% done, thanks mostly to Bob Ducar.
Message 34
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| Subject: | Re: Door Latch Pictures |
At 06:47 PM 2/18/2008, you wrote:
>Quick questions, does your window fit flush with the opening or does
>it overlap the opening. I believe that if my window overlapped I
>wouldn't have the problem of the window bowing out in flight. Jeff
>Classic IV CMH
My window is recessed along the forward edge, flush along
the top edge, and overlapping along the bottom and aft edges. My
window doesn't bow because it's a bubble door, and therefore
incredibly stiff, with or without the frame.
Guy Buchanan
San Diego, CA
K-IV 1200 / 582-C / Warp / 100% done, thanks mostly to Bob Ducar.
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