Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:21 AM - Re: Model 2 fuel gauge (gary.algate@sandvik.com)
2. 01:23 AM - Re: Model 2 fuel gauge (gary.algate@sandvik.com)
3. 06:03 AM - Radiator scoop (Catz631@aol.com)
4. 06:34 AM - Re: Engine and Performance Survey (Lynn Matteson)
5. 07:28 AM - Re: Radiator scoop (Lowell Fitt)
6. 08:59 AM - Re: Radiator scoop (yodaone)
7. 11:18 AM - Re: Engine and Performance Survey--WOW! GREAT JOB.. (john taylor)
8. 12:45 PM - Re: Flaperon Flutter (Southern Skies)
9. 02:12 PM - Best Prop for KF IV-1200 Speedster 912 UL (pperrynas)
10. 02:17 PM - Re: Re: Flaperon Flutter (Lynn Matteson)
11. 02:31 PM - O200 S5 (fox5flyer)
12. 02:48 PM - Re: Best Prop for KF IV-1200 Speedster 912 UL (Mark Reupert)
13. 02:59 PM - Re: O200 S5 (steve eccles)
14. 03:04 PM - Re: Radiator scoop (dave)
15. 03:19 PM - Kitfox on hard surface compared to grass (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Geir_Olav_=D8ien?=)
16. 03:49 PM - Engine and Performance Survey (fox5flyer)
17. 04:33 PM - Re: Kitfox on hard surface compared to grass (Lynn Matteson)
18. 04:44 PM - Re: Light Sport? (dcsfoto)
19. 09:38 PM - Re: 912S Oil and Coolant (darinh)
20. 09:55 PM - Re: Kitfox on hard surface compared to grass (gary.algate@sandvik.com)
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| Subject: | Model 2 fuel gauge |
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DQoNCg0KDQo
Message 2
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| Subject: | Model 2 fuel gauge |
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Message 3
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I just purchased a radiator scoop to dress up the looks on my model 4. The
instructions say to mfg a series of .032 alum straps with nutplates and attach
to the tubes under the floorboards OR use long bolts and go thru the floorboard.
It seems that everything is attached to the floorboard and it would be a
major project to remove them.(rudder pedals,control sticks,etc.) My inclination
is to use long bolts but I am concerned about the resulting appearance of the
bolt heads,etc penetrating thru the floorboards. I would like to make it look
nice.
Has anyone done this on a finished aircraft and if so maybe a better method?
Thanks!
Dick Maddux
Fox 4-1200
Rotax 912
Pensacola,Fl
**************Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for
fuel-efficient used cars. (http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut00050000000007)
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Engine and Performance Survey |
I read John Allen's honest evaluation of his Rotax-powered Kitfox a
couple of weeks ago, and thought I'd respond with my experiences with
my Jabiru 2200-powered Kitfox.
I inserted my comments after John's with the heading: LM: blah,
blah, blah.....
Lynn Matteson
Kitfox IV Speedster
Jabiru 2200
Status: flying w/541 hrs
On Jun 13, 2008, at 2:22 AM, John Allen wrote:
>
> Whurlybird asks:
>
> "What engine do you have mounted in what model Kitfox and how does
> your performance stack up? Looking for GPH, cruise, climb, overall
> impression, the sorts of things you would tell your friend if he
> was talking about buying the same engine."
>
> Following are comments on my experience with the Rotax 912 UL, pros
> and cons. Hope this helps. Would like to see similar comments
> from users of other types.
>
> Model IV Speedster came with a Rotax 912 UL, with 500 hrs, has over
> 900 hrs on it now. It is compact and light, supposedly weighs 132#
> with exhaust.
>
LM: Model IV Speedster kit had no engine...chose new Jabiru 2200;
has over 540 hours on it now. Supposedly weighs 132 pounds
complete...and doesn't need radiator, coolant, or associated cooling
hoses.
> It uses motorcycle oil in a dry sump, requiring it to be pulled
> through a certain way before startup to purge the cylinders and
> special knowledge and care in changing the oil to get it all out.
> If overfilled, will puke out the extra. Has an oil filter. It is
> clean, leaks no oil, consumes no oil, keeps the same level from oil
> change to oil change. Has coolant, calls for a special waterless
> kind but I use water and antifreeze. Leaked a little for a while
> at one time.
>
LM: Uses aviation oil in a typical aircraft engine wet sump.
Check oil with dipstick just like your car. Has an oil filter and
cooler, very minor leaks, but (mine) uses about 1 oz. per hour. No
coolant...uses air cooling principle, similar to most certified
airplane engines.
> It burns 87 Octane car gas. Alcohol is not a problem but it does
> not like lead, if burning 100LL, needs an additive. Has dual
> electronic ignition. Spark plugs are readily available and cheap,
> costing less than 1/10th the cost of aircraft plugs.
>
LM: Requires 100LL for the first 50 hrs., then 93 octane if
desired. Jabiru does not recommend using an additive for 100LL....who
knows why? Dual electronic ignition, using common automotive spark
plugs...NGK D9EA. I have had problems with my distributor rotors
failing, but by following their instructions of gluing to rotors on
(huh?), I've had no recurrence of this problem. Dist caps and rotors
are common automotive units, but the shafts lay horizontally, and
this might be why Jabiru suggests gluing rotors onto the shafts. I
thought this was ridiculous, so the first time I felt it necessary to
change rotors and caps, I used my years of automotive knowledge and
ignored their advice....WRONG! Follow their advice and put your ego
on hold, Lynn.
> It has 2 carbs that must be synchronized but are altitude-
> compensating and usually shake out carb ice. It beat up one air
> cleaner against the firewall when they were mounted on the carbs
> and drew in air warmed by the exhaust. Now has the carb heat box
> on it with a big air cleaner up front. It has an enrichner "choke"
> that must be adjusted correctly and used a certain way on most, but
> not all, cold starts.
>
LM: Has one Bing carb, altitude compensating, carb heat box with
air cleaner. This carb is similar to the one used by Rotax, but size
may be different. The Jabiru likes to have a nice smooth tube
bringing air to the carb, with at least a 4" straight section just
before carb to prevent turbulence within the carb.
> It fires up instantly and smoothly, with instant oil pressure, but
> must be operated above 1800 RPM to avoid damage to the gearbox.
> This can give thrust on landing without an adjustable prop. It
> does not overheat (with an Ivoprop). It runs smoothly and quietly,
> seems to have plenty of torque and power. It has been extremely
> reliable and comforting over lots of wild country.
>
LM: Starts instantly, instant oil pressure, and it is suggested
to run at 1200 rpm initially. Landing can be done at 900-950
rpm...suggested idle speed. No choice yet (that I'm aware of) on
propellor choice. Must use wood so far as I know...(adjustable prop
by Sensenich is in the testing phase)
I think that Rotax had the edge on torque and power, due to their
gearbox and high-revving engine, and use of 3-bladed props. But I
like the Jabiru philosophy of low rpm, direct-drive, simple
mechanics, like most certified airplane engines.
> Has a wide cruise range. Can putt along at estimated 2 to 2 1/2
> GPH, 65 MPH doors open or 75 doors shut. Have not measured it
> exactly because do not fly it with full fuel when putting around,
> but can get 5 hours out of 12 gallons with some left. Don't want
> much fuel in it when folding the wings.
>
LM: I can cruise from 90-105mph, using 3.8-4.1 gallons per hour,
based on how I fly my plane. I once flew a couple of back-to-back 513-
mile tanks, and have never put in more than 23 gallons after doing
so. It can climb from 1200 fpm, down to 3-400 fpm, depending on
conditions. Leaving Cochise Co. airport in Arizona (4186' elev.) with
full tanks (27 gallons) , it took me 10 minutes to climb an
additional 4500 feet, on a hot day with high (don't recall) density
altitude.
> Experimenting with economy cruise, 4000 RPM 90 MPH, have not
> determined fuel burn. Cruise for going places is 5000 RPM, 117
> MPH, up to 5 GPH, about 20 MPG, plan on 300 miles, but can go 400
> with a good hour's reserve. If bumpy, have to slow below 113.
> Plane lacks gas cap fairings and strut fairings, has 6.00 x 6
> tires, no wheel pants.
>
LM: Have not experimented with economy fuel burn...too
boring. : ) I cruise at Jabiru's suggested 2750-2950 rpm
(redline=3300 rpm) 90-105mph...on last year's California trip, speed
was 98.4mph average, coming and going (6161 statute miles total) @
3.93gallons/hour average. Fuel burn on entire trip was 246.03
gallons, costing $1004.23....ain't gonna happen that cheap any time
soon! ($4.08/gallon avg. across the country)
Oh, I almost forgot...last year I flew as slow as the slowest C150
on a trip east, and averaged 3.69 gal./hr. Another average shows 3.42/
hr, but I can't recall the flying conditions, or how long the trip was.
> Vapor locked one time I think, would not hot start after awaiting
> customs clearance after a long flight. Had a broken exhaust once
> before I got it. Has a weak alternator, need to economize on the
> electrical load and be sure battery is up to 14 volts before
> shutdown. Battery needs some charge to excite alternator.
>
LM: I had one embarrassing incident at Oshkosh last year where
the engine did not start after taxiing for almost a mile, shutting it
down, and forgetting to shut off main fuel supply and engine flooded.
Too much cranking before realizing it was flooded caused battery to
go dead. Charging battery fixed it. My engine outputs 10 amps, so I
keep use of battery-powered devices to below 10 amps...later engines
have higher output from alternator.
> Can be hand propped, but is dangerous as it starts up so fast.
> Prop must not be turned backwards.
LM: Jabirus cannot be hand propped (unless after-market ignition
system is installed), but prop can be turned in either direction
without consequence.
>
> Has instant throttle response, which can be a problem for the
> inexperienced on takeoff. Has a vernier for small adjustments.
> With springs, throttle defaults to full power when the linkage
> breaks, which it did on me once. This is a good thing, unless you
> are taxiing through a crowd at an airshow. Be sure to have good
> brakes.
>
LM: My Jabiru also has instant throttle response, but the
instructions call for a slow push on throttle for best result. I
tweaked my carb to get instant response. Similar Bing carb, so spring
defaults to full throttle...spring can be removed, but this is not
good if you are flying and linkage breaks and you want to get home.
Better to have throttle go wide open and control speed with mag switch.
> It requires special knowledge to operate and service. The owner/
> operator must obtain the knowledge. I do not think many A & P's
> are savvy to it yet. Lockwood has a DVD and classes.
>
LM: No particular special knowledge required for the Jabiru. No
special precautions about rotating prop, no special precautions about
checking oil, no special coolants required...pretty much standard
engine knowledge will get you through.
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Radiator scoop |
Hi, Dick,
I had the radiator scoop on the previous Model IV, It was also a late
addition as well and mounted it through the floorboard with fender washers
under round head bolts (screws). I had a piece of carpet over the
floorboards, but in the new project, I will likely just let the screw heads
show.
Lowell
----- Original Message -----
From: <Catz631@aol.com>
Sent: Sunday, June 29, 2008 6:00 AM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Radiator scoop
>I just purchased a radiator scoop to dress up the looks on my model 4. The
> instructions say to mfg a series of .032 alum straps with nutplates and
> attach
> to the tubes under the floorboards OR use long bolts and go thru the
> floorboard.
> It seems that everything is attached to the floorboard and it would be a
> major project to remove them.(rudder pedals,control sticks,etc.) My
> inclination
> is to use long bolts but I am concerned about the resulting appearance of
> the
> bolt heads,etc penetrating thru the floorboards. I would like to make it
> look
> nice.
> Has anyone done this on a finished aircraft and if so maybe a better
> method?
> Thanks!
> Dick Maddux
> Fox 4-1200
> Rotax 912
> Pensacola,Fl
>
>
> **************Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for
> fuel-efficient used cars.
> (http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut00050000000007)
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Radiator scoop |
I'm in the process of installing one, will post how I attached the scoop to the
floor boards with without removing them.
Also added speed cuffs.
--------
1991 Kitfox IV 1050LB
Rotax 912UL
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=190393#190393
Attachments:
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Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Engine and Performance Survey--WOW! GREAT JOB.. |
john bowman here (about 70% done on an avid iv+ from airdale) in south la (
between n.o. & baton rouge). now that's the way to report on engine/aircraf
t performance. very practical and comprehensive. i wish all users would use
the same approach. "just the facts, maam" of ones personal experience. i'm
fast approaching the engine decision on my avid & really appreciate these
kind of pireps. tnx for laying it all out in very readable & non jargon ter
ms. i enjoy all ur posts. they are most informative & entertaining. keep up
the good work & be safe. no reply needed. jb=0A=0A=0A----- Original Messag
e ----=0AFrom: Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt@jps.net>=0ATo: kitfox-list@matronics
.com=0ASent: Sunday, June 29, 2008 8:32:06 AM=0ASubject: Re: Kitfox-List: E
atteson <lynnmatt@jps.net>=0A=0AI read John Allen's honest evaluation of hi
s Rotax-powered Kitfox a- =0Acouple of weeks ago, and thought I'd respond
with my experiences with- =0Amy Jabiru 2200-powered Kitfox.=0A=0AI inser
ted my comments after John's with the heading:- LM:- blah,- =0Ablah,
blah.....=0A=0ALynn Matteson=0AKitfox IV Speedster=0AJabiru 2200=0AStatus:
flying w/541 hrs=0A=0A=0AOn Jun 13, 2008, at 2:22 AM, John Allen wrote:=0A
=0A>=0A> Whurlybird asks:=0A>=0A> "What engine do you have mounted in what
model Kitfox and how does- =0A> your performance stack up?- Looking for
GPH, cruise, climb, overall- =0A> impression, the sorts of things you wo
uld tell your friend if he- =0A> was talking about buying the same engine
."=0A>=0A> Following are comments on my experience with the Rotax 912 UL, p
ros- =0A> and cons.- Hope this helps.- Would like to see similar comm
ents- =0A> from users of other types.=0A>=0A> Model IV Speedster came wit
h a Rotax 912 UL, with 500 hrs, has over- =0A> 900 hrs on it now.- It i
s compact and light, supposedly weighs 132#- =0A> with exhaust.=0A>=0A-
LM:- Model IV Speedster kit had no engine...chose new Jabiru 2200;-
=0Ahas over 540 hours on it now.- Supposedly weighs 132 pounds- =0Acomp
lete...and doesn't need radiator, coolant, or associated- cooling- =0Ah
oses.=0A=0A=0A> It uses motorcycle oil in a dry sump, requiring it to be pu
lled- =0A> through a certain way before startup to purge the cylinders an
d- =0A> special knowledge and care in changing the oil to get it all out.
- =0A> If overfilled, will puke out the extra.- Has an oil filter.- I
t is- =0A> clean, leaks no oil, consumes no oil, keeps the same level fro
m oil- =0A> change to oil change.- Has coolant, calls for a special wat
erless- =0A> kind but I use water and antifreeze.- Leaked a little for
a while- =0A> at one time.=0A>=0A- LM:- Uses aviation oil in a typica
l aircraft engine wet sump.- =0ACheck oil with dipstick just like your ca
r. Has an oil filter and- =0Acooler, very minor leaks, but (mine) uses ab
out 1 oz. per hour. No- =0Acoolant...uses air cooling principle, similar
to most certified- =0Aairplane engines.=0A=0A=0A> It burns 87 Octane car
gas.- Alcohol is not a problem but it does- =0A> not like lead, if burn
ing 100LL, needs an additive.- Has dual- =0A> electronic ignition.- S
park plugs are readily available and cheap,- =0A> costing less than 1/10t
h the cost of aircraft plugs.=0A>=0A- LM:- Requires 100LL for the first
50 hrs., then 93 octane if- =0Adesired. Jabiru does not recommend using
an additive for 100LL....who- =0Aknows why? Dual electronic ignition, usi
ng common automotive spark- =0Aplugs...NGK D9EA. I have had problems with
my distributor rotors- =0Afailing, but by following their instructions o
f gluing to rotors on- =0A(huh?), I've had no recurrence of this problem.
Dist caps and rotors- =0Aare common automotive units, but the shafts lay
horizontally, and- =0Athis might be why Jabiru suggests gluing rotors on
to the shafts. I- =0Athought this was ridiculous, so the first time I fel
t it necessary to- =0Achange rotors and caps, I used my years of automoti
ve knowledge and- =0Aignored their advice....WRONG! Follow their advice a
nd put your ego- =0Aon hold, Lynn.=0A=0A=0A> It has 2 carbs that must be
synchronized but are altitude- =0A> compensating and usually shake out carb
ice.- It beat up one air- =0A> cleaner against the firewall when they
were mounted on the carbs- =0A> and drew in air warmed by the exhaust.-
Now has the carb heat box- =0A> on it with a big air cleaner up front.
- It has an enrichner "choke"- =0A> that must be adjusted correctly and
used a certain way on most, but- =0A> not all, cold starts.=0A>=0A- LM
:- Has one Bing carb, altitude compensating, carb heat box with- =0Aair
cleaner. This carb is similar to the one used by Rotax, but size- =0Amay
be different. The Jabiru likes to have a nice smooth tube- =0Abringing a
ir to the carb, with at least a 4" straight section just- =0Abefore carb
to prevent turbulence within the carb.=0A=0A=0A> It fires up instantly and
smoothly, with instant oil pressure, but- =0A> must be operated above 180
0 RPM to avoid damage to the gearbox.- =0A> This can give thrust on landi
ng without an adjustable prop.- It- =0A> does not overheat (with an Ivo
prop).- It runs smoothly and quietly,- =0A> seems to have plenty of tor
que and power.- It has been extremely- =0A> reliable and comforting ove
r lots of wild country.=0A>=0A- LM:- Starts instantly, instant oil pres
sure, and it is suggested- =0Ato run at 1200 rpm initially. Landing can b
e done at 900-950- =0Arpm...suggested idle speed. No choice yet (that I'm
aware of)- on- =0Apropellor choice. Must use wood so far as I know...(
adjustable prop- =0Aby Sensenich is in the testing phase)=0AI think that
Rotax had the edge on torque and power, due to their- =0Agearbox and high
-revving engine, and use of 3-bladed props. But I- =0Alike the Jabiru phi
losophy of low rpm, direct-drive, simple- =0Amechanics, like most certifi
ed airplane engines.=0A=0A=0A> Has a wide cruise range.- Can putt along a
t estimated 2 to 2 1/2- =0A> GPH, 65 MPH doors open or 75 doors shut.-
Have not measured it- =0A> exactly because do not fly it with full fuel w
hen putting around,- =0A> but can get 5 hours out of 12 gallons with some
left.- Don't want- =0A> much fuel in it when folding the wings.=0A>=0A
- LM:- I can cruise from 90-105mph, using 3.8-4.1 gallons per hour,-
=0Abased on how I fly my plane. I once flew a couple of back-to-back 513-
=0Amile tanks, and have never put in more than 23 gallons after doing-
=0Aso. It can climb from 1200 fpm, down to 3-400 fpm, depending on- =0Aco
nditions. Leaving Cochise Co. airport in Arizona (4186' elev.) with- =0Af
ull tanks (27 gallons) , it took me 10 minutes to climb an- =0Aadditional
4500 feet, on a hot day with high (don't recall) density- =0Aaltitude.
=0A=0A=0A> Experimenting with economy cruise, 4000 RPM 90 MPH, have not-
=0A> determined fuel burn.- Cruise for going places is 5000 RPM, 117-
=0A> MPH, up to 5 GPH, about 20 MPG, plan on 300 miles, but can go 400-
=0A> with a good hour's reserve. If bumpy, have to slow below 113.- =0A>
Plane lacks gas cap fairings and strut fairings, has 6.00 x 6- =0A> tires
, no wheel pants.=0A>=0A- LM:- Have not experimented with economy fuel
burn...too- =0Aboring. : )- I cruise at Jabiru's suggested 2750-2950 rp
m- =0A(redline=3300 rpm) 90-105mph...on last year's California trip, sp
eed- =0Awas 98.4mph average, coming and going (6161 statute miles total)
@- =0A3.93gallons/hour average. Fuel burn on entire trip was 246.03-
=0Agallons, costing $1004.23....ain't gonna happen that cheap any time-
=0Asoon! ($4.08/gallon avg. across the country)=0A=0A- Oh, I almost forgo
t...last year I flew as slow as the slowest C150- =0Aon a trip east, and
averaged 3.69 gal./hr. Another average shows 3.42/ =0Ahr, but I can't recal
l the flying conditions, or how long the trip was.=0A=0A> Vapor locked one
time I think, would not hot start after awaiting- =0A> customs clearance
after a long flight.- Had a broken exhaust once- =0A> before I got it.
- Has a weak alternator, need to economize on the- =0A> electrical load
and be sure battery is up to 14 volts before- =0A> shutdown.- Battery
needs some charge to excite alternator.=0A>=0A- LM:- I had one embarras
sing incident at Oshkosh last year where- =0Athe engine did not start aft
er taxiing for almost a mile, shutting it- =0Adown, and forgetting to shu
t off main fuel supply and engine flooded.- =0AToo much cranking before r
ealizing it was flooded caused battery to- =0Ago dead. Charging battery f
ixed it. My engine outputs 10 amps, so I- =0Akeep use of battery-powered
devices to below 10 amps...later engines- =0Ahave higher output from alte
rnator.=0A=0A=0A> Can be hand propped, but is dangerous as it starts up so
fast.- =0A> Prop must not be turned backwards.=0A- LM: Jabirus cannot b
e hand propped (unless after-market ignition- =0Asystem is installed), bu
t prop can be turned in either direction- =0Awithout consequence.=0A=0A>
=0A> Has instant throttle response, which can be a problem for the- =0A>
inexperienced on takeoff.- Has a vernier for small adjustments.- =0A> W
ith springs, throttle defaults to full power when the linkage- =0A> break
s, which it did on me once.- This is a good thing, unless you- =0A> are
taxiing through a crowd at an airshow.- Be sure to have good- =0A> bra
kes.=0A>=0A- LM: My Jabiru also has instant throttle response, but the-
=0Ainstructions call for a slow push on throttle for best result. I- =0A
tweaked my carb to get instant response. Similar Bing carb, so spring-
=0Adefaults to full throttle...spring can be removed, but this is not-
=0Agood if you are flying and linkage breaks and you want to get home.-
=0ABetter to have throttle go wide open and control speed with mag switch.
=0A=0A> It requires special knowledge to operate and service.- The owner/
=0A> operator must obtain the knowledge.- I do not think many A & P's-
=0A> are savvy to it yet.- Lockwood has a DVD and classes.=0A>=0A- LM:
No particular special knowledge required for the Jabiru. No- =0Aspecial
precautions about rotating prop, no special precautions about- =0Acheckin
g oil, no special coolants required...pretty much standard- =0Aengine kno
=================0A=0A=0A
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Flaperon Flutter |
Hello Listers,
I am happy to report that the cause of the flutter has been found. There were two
factors that contributed, the broken turtledeck nylon bushings and the incorrect
rigging. The A&P completely disassembled the entire linkage and found nothing
wrong but did find the angle of incidence off a lot- the flaperons were
working against each other and needed a bit of adjustment.
This might also have contributed to me having to push the stick (or pull up a lot
on the flap handle) during climb out.
We also did a new W&B and all is well after machining a prop adapter that adds
3 lbs and moves the prop 2 inches forward.
Now the plane flies like a new bird, great. What a relief.
In the meantime I have been looking at a Kitfox 5 with an 0-200 with only 20 hrs
TT on it. I like it because its bigger and has more room for long legs. Is there
anything particular to this combination? Fuel burn, STOL capability cruise
speed and differences to the model 3 interest me.
Chris Bowles
KF 3 Rotax 582
Message 9
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| Subject: | Best Prop for KF IV-1200 Speedster 912 UL |
I recently bought a IV-1200 speedster with the 80hp 912ul/GSC tech 3 blade prop,
all around 1999 vintage, first flight 2001. The TTAF/engine/prop is about 80hrs,
but now I see that GSC says to replace prop after 5yrs(bummer). From what
I can tell from reading on this forum, the IVO props seem to be most popular,
but are there other suggestions? It would seem that the cost to replace the GSC
blades is not that much less than a new IVO ground adjustable (and easier ground
adjustment) or am I missing something? Is there any specific problems with
the IVO? I can't see how GSC can keep selling props that have to be replaced
after 5 yrs if competitors don't have those kind of limitations? Also, I would
like a "skull cap" type spinner, so is the IVO ground adjustable and/or the
in-flight adjustable compatable with these spinners and if so is there a particular
spinner/supplier recomended? I realize this is a lot of info to ask for,
but one of the first things I did was order a Hegar 5" spinner for the GSC,
only to find out that the GSC hub does not have a hole in the "center" and the
back plate of the spinner has a 1" diameter protrusion on the back side. While
I could make the necessary modifications to make it work, as stated earlier,
it appears I need a new prop anyway which is why I looking for as much info as
I can get. Thanks to everyone for posting so much valuable information...
by the way my name is Paul Perry ,I live in Southeast Missouri and frequently
fly over to the Kentucky Dam Airport. I mention this because a saw a post mentioning
this airport as a good choice for a fly-in ( I agree!)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=190437#190437
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| Subject: | Re: Flaperon Flutter |
During my building, I questioned the validity/importance of that
skinny little flaperon/turtledeck nylon bushing, and most folks told
me to put them on, and I'm glad I did. Sounds as though the broken
bushings were at least a part of your problem..glad you found it.
Lynn Matteson
Kitfox IV Speedster
Jabiru 2200
Status: flying w/541 hrs
On Jun 29, 2008, at 3:42 PM, Southern Skies wrote:
> <chris@southernskies.net>
>
> Hello Listers,
>
> I am happy to report that the cause of the flutter has been found.
> There were two factors that contributed, the broken turtledeck
> nylon bushings and the incorrect rigging. The A&P completely
> disassembled the entire linkage and found nothing wrong but did
> find the angle of incidence off a lot- the flaperons were working
> against each other and needed a bit of adjustment.
>
> This might also have contributed to me having to push the stick (or
> pull up a lot on the flap handle) during climb out.
>
> We also did a new W&B and all is well after machining a prop
> adapter that adds 3 lbs and moves the prop 2 inches forward.
>
> Now the plane flies like a new bird, great. What a relief.
>
> In the meantime I have been looking at a Kitfox 5 with an 0-200
> with only 20 hrs TT on it. I like it because its bigger and has
> more room for long legs. Is there anything particular to this
> combination? Fuel burn, STOL capability cruise speed and
> differences to the model 3 interest me.
>
> Chris Bowles
> KF 3 Rotax 582
>
>
Message 11
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In my opinion, the O200/S5 is one of the best combinations out there and I
wish I'd have gone that direction. The O200 is probably one of the simplest
and most reliable engines ever built. However, it's still a Continental and
some maintenance can be pricey, but parts are everywhere. If set up with a
good prop on a light S5 it would be ideal, IMO. Then again, probably not
the best for high density altitude airports. Engine TT and time since
overhaul can make a big difference.
Deke Morisse
Mikado Michigan
S5/Subaru/CAP 377+ TT
"The aim of an argument or discussion should not be victory, but progress."
- Joseph Joubert
>
> In the meantime I have been looking at a Kitfox 5 with an 0-200 with only
> 20 hrs TT on it. I like it because its bigger and has more room for long
> legs. Is there anything particular to this combination? Fuel burn, STOL
> capability cruise speed and differences to the model 3 interest me.
> Chris Bowles
> KF 3 Rotax 582
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Best Prop for KF IV-1200 Speedster 912 UL |
Hi Paul
I had the three blade GSC on my Kitfox 5 912UL when I bought it. It did a
good job and I really like the way they look with the wood prop. I replaced
it with the IVO and it performs about the same or slightly better. I only
have the small scull cap on the IVO. If you get the IFA option for the
ground adjustable IVO you can really get much better results. Better climb
out and much better cruise speeds and fuel savings. Still miss the looks of
the GSC.
Mark
Hartford Wisc.
On Sun, Jun 29, 2008 at 4:09 PM, pperrynas <pperryrph@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>
> I recently bought a IV-1200 speedster with the 80hp 912ul/GSC tech 3 blade
> prop, all around 1999 vintage, first flight 2001. The TTAF/engine/prop is
> about 80hrs, but now I see that GSC says to replace prop after 5yrs(bummer).
> From what I can tell from reading on this forum, the IVO props seem to be
> most popular, but are there other suggestions? It would seem that the cost
> to replace the GSC blades is not that much less than a new IVO ground
> adjustable (and easier ground adjustment) or am I missing something? Is
> there any specific problems with the IVO? I can't see how GSC can keep
> selling props that have to be replaced after 5 yrs if competitors don't have
> those kind of limitations? Also, I would like a "skull cap" type spinner, so
> is the IVO ground adjustable and/or the in-flight adjustable compatable with
> these spinners and if so is there a particular spinner/supplier recomended?
> I realize this is a lot of info to ask for, but one of the first things I
> did was order a Hega!
> r 5" spinner for the GSC, only to find out that the GSC hub does not have
> a hole in the "center" and the back plate of the spinner has a 1" diameter
> protrusion on the back side. While I could make the necessary modifications
> to make it work, as stated earlier, it appears I need a new prop anyway
> which is why I looking for as much info as I can get. Thanks to everyone
> for posting so much valuable information... by the way my name is Paul Perry
> ,I live in Southeast Missouri and frequently fly over to the Kentucky Dam
> Airport. I mention this because a saw a post mentioning this airport as a
> good choice for a fly-in ( I agree!)
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=190437#190437
>
>
--
Mark
Kitfox Vixen
912 UL IVO
Hartford, Wisconsin
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My series 5 with the 0-200 cruise's at 110 ,I have the prop adjusted for a combination
cruise and climb, using a warp drive 3 blade as I am not to familiar
with the performance on the other models I can't speak for them . I am be able
to land on short fields and get out just as easy , I havent went any further
than what I feel comfortable with, BUT I am very happy with the performance although
the only problem that I have had with the engine is one of my mags needed
to be replaced after a couple of hundred hours.
Steve
series 5 0-200
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of fox5flyer
Sent: Sunday, June 29, 2008 4:26 PM
Subject: Kitfox-List: O200 S5
In my opinion, the O200/S5 is one of the best combinations out there and I
wish I'd have gone that direction. The O200 is probably one of the simplest
and most reliable engines ever built. However, it's still a Continental and
some maintenance can be pricey, but parts are everywhere. If set up with a
good prop on a light S5 it would be ideal, IMO. Then again, probably not
the best for high density altitude airports. Engine TT and time since
overhaul can make a big difference.
Deke Morisse
Mikado Michigan
S5/Subaru/CAP 377+ TT
"The aim of an argument or discussion should not be victory, but progress."
- Joseph Joubert
>
> In the meantime I have been looking at a Kitfox 5 with an 0-200 with only
> 20 hrs TT on it. I like it because its bigger and has more room for long
> legs. Is there anything particular to this combination? Fuel burn, STOL
> capability cruise speed and differences to the model 3 interest me.
> Chris Bowles
> KF 3 Rotax 582
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Radiator scoop |
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> I'm in the process of installing one, will post how I attached the scoop to the
floor boards with without removing them.
> Also added speed cuffs.
>
>
what did you gain with your strut cuffs and the rad scoop ?
--------
Rotax Dealer, Ontario Canada
Flying Videos and Kitfox Info
http://www.cfisher.com/
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=190444#190444
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| Subject: | Kitfox on hard surface compared to grass |
I only have about 100 landings on my Kitfox IV (speedster), this is only on
soft field (grass). I am planning a trip to a field with hard surface
(asphalt) next weekend, but I am a little concerned about that, since I have
never been flying a taildragger on hard surface. Can I expect a big
difference in yaw control or what can I expect. There is people that says it
is much more difficult, and other do not see any difference. As long it is a
calm day, with not much wind it should not be a problem, or?
I am only used to a crappy airfield of about 1000ft grass, where we have big
trees in one end of the runway, and I have fly in a constant bank from the
north to land (due to some houses we not are allowed to fly over)
Hope somebody can tell if there is a big difference between asphalt and
grass with a kitfox.
Thanks
Geir Olav
Kitfox IV speedster
Jab2200.
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| Subject: | Engine and Performance Survey |
DM: Great-pure fact-report guys. Excellent. I'll add mine because
there are quite a few Subaru powered Foxes on this list and someone
might be interested.
First, it's a 100hp EA81 normally aspirated Subaru with NSI conversion
mounted on a S5 Kitfox. The Dyno graph that came with it indicated
112hp, but I have no idea which is correct. The manager of NSI is no
longer around and the company was reclaimed by the owner (Maxwell) who
stopped production of the EA81 package preferring to only produce the
larger, higher hp, and heavier Soobs like the EJ22, 25, etc. which sort
of makes me an orphan for factory support. However, most of the engine
parts are standard off the shelf. For a reduction unit it uses a very
robust NSI produced gear drive using a sprag clutch that works very
well. However, it also is no longer factory supported and getting parts
for it will be a much bigger challenge, especially as time goes on. All
ancillary parts like motor mount, radiator, etc were very well made.
see below...
From: Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt@jps.net>
Sent: Sunday, June 29, 2008 8:32:06 AM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Engine and Performance Survey
I read John Allen's honest evaluation of his Rotax-powered Kitfox a
couple of weeks ago, and thought I'd respond with my experiences with
my Jabiru 2200-powered Kitfox.
I inserted my comments after John's with the heading: LM: blah,
blah, blah.....
Lynn Matteson
Kitfox IV Speedster
Jabiru 2200
Status: flying w/541 hrs
On Jun 13, 2008, at 2:22 AM, John Allen wrote:
>
> Whurlybird asks:
>
> "What engine do you have mounted in what model Kitfox and how does
> your performance stack up? Looking for GPH, cruise, climb, overall
> impression, the sorts of things you would tell your friend if he
> was talking about buying the same engine."
>
> Following are comments on my experience with the Rotax 912 UL, pros
> and cons. Hope this helps. Would like to see similar comments
> from users of other types.
>
> Model IV Speedster came with a Rotax 912 UL, with 500 hrs, has over
> 900 hrs on it now. It is compact and light, supposedly weighs 132#
> with exhaust.
>
LM: Model IV Speedster kit had no engine...chose new Jabiru 2200;
has over 540 hours on it now. Supposedly weighs 132 pounds
complete...and doesn't need radiator, coolant, or associated cooling
hoses.
DM: The NSI package is, compared to Jab and 912, heavy as are most
Subarus. Mine, with motor mount, hoses, radiator, and everything it
takes to make it run was 232 pounds. I know this because I weighed it
myself on a large platform scale. This requires balance considerations
and I chose to mount a 28amp AGM battery in the back and use a large
Maule Tundra tailwheel with 2" extended spring. No further weight was
needed in the tail. It's very difficult to build a light Kitfox using
any Subaru, yet it's an option that can be considered.
> It uses motorcycle oil in a dry sump, requiring it to be pulled
> through a certain way before startup to purge the cylinders and
> special knowledge and care in changing the oil to get it all out.
> If overfilled, will puke out the extra. Has an oil filter. It is
> clean, leaks no oil, consumes no oil, keeps the same level from oil
> change to oil change. Has coolant, calls for a special waterless
> kind but I use water and antifreeze. Leaked a little for a while
> at one time.
>
LM: Uses aviation oil in a typical aircraft engine wet sump.
Check oil with dipstick just like your car. Has an oil filter and
cooler, very minor leaks, but (mine) uses about 1 oz. per hour. No
coolant...uses air cooling principle, similar to most certified
airplane engines.
DM: Uses any normal automotive oil. I use Castrol GTX 20w50 and a NAPA
filter and it needs no oil cooler for cooling. No engine leaks after
377+ hours, however it uses about a pint over 20 hours. Requires normal
automotive coolant for aluminum engines. Changing oil is very simple.
> It burns 87 Octane car gas. Alcohol is not a problem but it does
> not like lead, if burning 100LL, needs an additive. Has dual
> electronic ignition. Spark plugs are readily available and cheap,
> costing less than 1/10th the cost of aircraft plugs.
>
LM: Requires 100LL for the first 50 hrs., then 93 octane if
desired. Jabiru does not recommend using an additive for 100LL....who
knows why? Dual electronic ignition, using common automotive spark
plugs...NGK D9EA. I have had problems with my distributor rotors
failing, but by following their instructions of gluing to rotors on
(huh?), I've had no recurrence of this problem. Dist caps and rotors
are common automotive units, but the shafts lay horizontally, and
this might be why Jabiru suggests gluing rotors onto the shafts. I
thought this was ridiculous, so the first time I felt it necessary to
change rotors and caps, I used my years of automotive knowledge and
ignored their advice....WRONG! Follow their advice and put your ego
on hold, Lynn.
DM: Will burn pretty much any gas, but the compression is bumped up a
bit so I use premium. I don't know if alcohol is being used in my area,
but if it is I've seen no performance or economy differences. It uses
dual electronic ignitions by Electromotive, but they go through coil
joiners to a single standard spark plug per cylinder. One of my coil
joiners went bad where I would get a miss, but the airplane was still
flyable and it was a simple replacement.
> It has 2 carbs that must be synchronized but are altitude-
> compensating and usually shake out carb ice. It beat up one air
> cleaner against the firewall when they were mounted on the carbs
> and drew in air warmed by the exhaust. Now has the carb heat box
> on it with a big air cleaner up front. It has an enrichner "choke"
> that must be adjusted correctly and used a certain way on most, but
> not all, cold starts.
>
LM: Has one Bing carb, altitude compensating, carb heat box with
air cleaner. This carb is similar to the one used by Rotax, but size
may be different. The Jabiru likes to have a nice smooth tube
bringing air to the carb, with at least a 4" straight section just
before carb to prevent turbulence within the carb.
DM: The NSI Soob has one Ellison throttle body fuel injector that
requires a fuel pump for takeoff, but not cruise. Very simple and works
well and on the plus side you can talk on the phone to the guy who
builds it. Has carb heat, but never needed it. Also has the capability
to lean just like an O200 so one can set it up for good economy. It can
be a bit of a problem starting in cold weather (below 30f) due to a very
light flywheel and the type of ignition modules it uses. IMO this is
it's weakest trait. Different ignition modules would probably cure the
problem.
> It fires up instantly and smoothly, with instant oil pressure, but
> must be operated above 1800 RPM to avoid damage to the gearbox.
> This can give thrust on landing without an adjustable prop. It
> does not overheat (with an Ivoprop). It runs smoothly and quietly,
> seems to have plenty of torque and power. It has been extremely
> reliable and comforting over lots of wild country.
>
LM: Starts instantly, instant oil pressure, and it is suggested
to run at 1200 rpm initially. Landing can be done at 900-950
rpm...suggested idle speed. No choice yet (that I'm aware of) on
propellor choice. Must use wood so far as I know...(adjustable prop
by Sensenich is in the testing phase)
I think that Rotax had the edge on torque and power, due to their
gearbox and high-revving engine, and use of 3-bladed props. But I
like the Jabiru philosophy of low rpm, direct-drive, simple
mechanics, like most certified airplane engines.
DM: Starts right up in decent weather, but not cold--see above. Idles
at 2000rpm to minimize tortional pulses from the prop, but can be idled
down briefly to 1400 for landing. Takeoff rpm is about 5400. Again,
this is a heavy package with the S5 already being much heavier than the
IV, but the higher wing loading gives a slightly smoother ride in the
bumps.
> Has a wide cruise range. Can putt along at estimated 2 to 2 1/2
> GPH, 65 MPH doors open or 75 doors shut. Have not measured it
> exactly because do not fly it with full fuel when putting around,
> but can get 5 hours out of 12 gallons with some left. Don't want
> much fuel in it when folding the wings.
>
LM: I can cruise from 90-105mph, using 3.8-4.1 gallons per hour,
based on how I fly my plane. I once flew a couple of back-to-back 513-
mile tanks, and have never put in more than 23 gallons after doing
so. It can climb from 1200 fpm, down to 3-400 fpm, depending on
conditions. Leaving Cochise Co. airport in Arizona (4186' elev.) with
full tanks (27 gallons) , it took me 10 minutes to climb an
additional 4500 feet, on a hot day with high (don't recall) density
altitude.
DM: Can cruise from 75 to 110mph. Economy cruise where I primary keep
it is about 105mph at 3.8gph. I don't know how fast it will go because
I've never attempted it, but it will easily cruise 115, but at the
expense of higher fuel burn. Climbout is anywhere between 750 on a hot
day to 1200 on a cool day with good conditions. These numbers change
with weight, obviously. but my numbers are with full tanks and just me
at 175lbs and nearly sea level. I've never cruised any higher than 7.5,
but never needed to either. Endurance would be about the same as the
Jab or 912.
> Experimenting with economy cruise, 4000 RPM 90 MPH, have not
> determined fuel burn. Cruise for going places is 5000 RPM, 117
> MPH, up to 5 GPH, about 20 MPG, plan on 300 miles, but can go 400
> with a good hour's reserve. If bumpy, have to slow below 113.
> Plane lacks gas cap fairings and strut fairings, has 6.00 x 6
> tires, no wheel pants.
>
LM: Have not experimented with economy fuel burn...too
boring. : ) I cruise at Jabiru's suggested 2750-2950 rpm
(redline=3300 rpm) 90-105mph...on last year's California trip, speed
was 98.4mph average, coming and going (6161 statute miles total) @
3.93gallons/hour average. Fuel burn on entire trip was 246.03
gallons, costing $1004.23....ain't gonna happen that cheap any time
soon! ($4.08/gallon avg. across the country)
DM: I always economy cruise because I'm cheap. Generally at about
3900rpm, 22"mp, and about 105mph or a little faster with 3.8 to 4gph
fuel burn. Part of the good cruise speed is due to the NSI electric
pitch prop (more below) and lots of fairings including wheel pants. My
strip is grass and relatively short, but there are no problems with
either takeoff or landing performance.
Oh, I almost forgot...last year I flew as slow as the slowest C150
on a trip east, and averaged 3.69 gal./hr. Another average shows 3.42/
hr, but I can't recall the flying conditions, or how long the trip was.
> Vapor locked one time I think, would not hot start after awaiting
> customs clearance after a long flight. Had a broken exhaust once
> before I got it. Has a weak alternator, need to economize on the
> electrical load and be sure battery is up to 14 volts before
> shutdown. Battery needs some charge to excite alternator.
>
LM: I had one embarrassing incident at Oshkosh last year where
the engine did not start after taxiing for almost a mile, shutting it
down, and forgetting to shut off main fuel supply and engine flooded.
Too much cranking before realizing it was flooded caused battery to
go dead. Charging battery fixed it. My engine outputs 10 amps, so I
keep use of battery-powered devices to below 10 amps...later engines
have higher output from alternator.
DM: As with most engines, the Soob can also have vapor lock problems if
left in hot sun with hot engine and attempting to start after about 30
minutes of heat soak. It always starts though, just not very quick. I
usually try to point it into the breeze and open the oil inspection door
open. It needs a good quality fuel valve because the fuel needs to be
shut down to kill the engine and left off until restart, per
manufacturer's instructions. Good 50amp Nippon Denso alternator.
> Can be hand propped, but is dangerous as it starts up so fast.
> Prop must not be turned backwards.
LM: Jabirus cannot be hand propped (unless after-market ignition
system is installed), but prop can be turned in either direction
without consequence.
DM: Due to the sprag clutch in the prop, it cannot be hand propped. It
will just freewheel spin. The prop is an electrically cockpit
adjustable (CAP) and works great. I pitch for max performance takeoff
and after 500 feet I add pitch for cruise climb and when reaching
altitude add more pitch for cruise then set up throttle, mixture, and
pitch for best mp and cruise economy. The prop adds some complexity,
but well worth it and once it's gotten used to becomes second nature.
Again, the prop is no longer factory supported so some day I may have a
problem finding parts.
>
> Has instant throttle response, which can be a problem for the
> inexperienced on takeoff. Has a vernier for small adjustments.
> With springs, throttle defaults to full power when the linkage
> breaks, which it did on me once. This is a good thing, unless you
> are taxiing through a crowd at an airshow. Be sure to have good
> brakes.
>
LM: My Jabiru also has instant throttle response, but the
instructions call for a slow push on throttle for best result. I
tweaked my carb to get instant response. Similar Bing carb, so spring
defaults to full throttle...spring can be removed, but this is not
good if you are flying and linkage breaks and you want to get home.
Better to have throttle go wide open and control speed with mag switch.
DM: My throttle response is good throughout its range and I operate it
much like the Jabiru mainly to be easy on the engine.
Overall, it's a good package and gives good service. Subarus are known
for their rugged reliability which is a plus, but each different engine
builder sets them up differently so it's difficult to compare. Stratus
has a good rep.
However, I probably wouldn't do it again, even if NSI was still
supporting it. I would probably go with the ubiquitous and simple O200,
or possibly a 912S if I could find one for the right price. I would
definitely go for the extra bucks and get a cockpit adjustable prop.
If money is a big issue, the Subaru can be a good choice, but lacks the
"big factory" type support. Many people convert their own.
Deke Morisse
Mikado Michigan
S5/Subaru/CAP 377+ TT
"The aim of an argument or discussion should not be victory, but
progress."
- Joseph Joubert
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Kitfox on hard surface compared to grass |
I haven't found all that much difference between the two IF you're
heading straight down the runway on the pavement. Grass is more
forgiving than hard surface, of course, but I've only had one bad
landing on the hard stuff, and that was during a reported 19-35 knot,
90-degree crosswind.
By the way, during my first solo cross-country trip, while coming in
for the landing, I suddenly realized that not only was this my first
solo cross-country flight, but my first solo pavement landing....and
the wind was at 60 degrees to the runway and about 10 mph as I
recall. The wind was enough to turn the airplane around (weathercock
it) into the wind after I fueled it.
Disclaimer: I'm not a CFI, nor do I play one on the TV...: )
Lynn Matteson
Kitfox IV Speedster
Jabiru 2200
Status: flying w/541 hrs
On Jun 29, 2008, at 6:16 PM, Geir Olav ien wrote:
> I only have about 100 landings on my Kitfox IV (speedster), this is
> only on soft field (grass). I am planning a trip to a field with
> hard surface (asphalt) next weekend, but I am a little concerned
> about that, since I have never been flying a taildragger on hard
> surface. Can I expect a big difference in yaw control or what can I
> expect. There is people that says it is much more difficult, and
> other do not see any difference. As long it is a calm day, with not
> much wind it should not be a problem, or?
>
> I am only used to a crappy airfield of about 1000ft grass, where we
> have big trees in one end of the runway, and I have fly in a
> constant bank from the north to land (due to some houses we not are
> allowed to fly over)
>
>
> Hope somebody can tell if there is a big difference between asphalt
> and grass with a kitfox.
>
>
> Thanks
>
>
> Geir Olav
>
> Kitfox IV speedster
>
> Jab2200.
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List_-
> ============================================================ _-
> forums.matronics.com_-
> ============================================================ _-
> contribution_-
> ===========================================================
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| Subject: | Re: Light Sport? |
aircraft must be registered prior to jan 31 08.
David
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=190466#190466
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| Subject: | Re: 912S Oil and Coolant |
The full synthetic Mobil 1 15W50 on the list is available at nearly any auto parts
store and even Walmart. I used it in my last 912 (800+ hours and still going
strong to my knowledge). It is a great lubricant especially if you are not
burning 100LL...I understand the semi-synthetics remove the lead better than
full synthetic oils. I am using the Evans NPG+ as recommended by Rotax in my
914. It is very spendy but it is supposedly a lifetime coolant...in any case,
$34 gets you enough for an initial fill up and another fill up after a flush
if you desire.
--------
Darin Hawkes
Series 7 (Final Assembly)
914 Turbo
Kaysville, Utah
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=190507#190507
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| Subject: | Re: Kitfox on hard surface compared to grass |
Geir
The only difference is that you have to make sure that you line up your
plane with no yaw while landing. Grass, water and ice is very forgiving
and tends to make us all a bit lazy as if you land a little yawed the
wheels will skid until you line up. On a tarmac runway there is no skid
and if you land yawed you will get a very loud "chirp" and in worst case
scenario you will overly stress your undercarriage.
Once you are running straight it's the same as grass.
Just make sure you are properly aligned with the runway and you will have
no problems..
Gary
Gary Algate
Classic 4 Jab2200
Office Phone: +61 8 8276 7655
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Geir Olav =D8ien <geir=5Folav@c2i.net>
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30/06/2008 10:59 AM
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Subject
Kitfox-List: Kitfox on hard surface compared to grass
I only have about 100 landings on my Kitfox IV (speedster), this is only
on soft field (grass). I am planning a trip to a field with hard surface
(asphalt) next weekend, but I am a little concerned about that, since I
have never been flying a taildragger on hard surface. Can I expect a big
difference in yaw control or what can I expect. There is people that says
it is much more difficult, and other do not see any difference. As long it
is a calm day, with not much wind it should not be a problem, or?
I am only used to a crappy airfield of about 1000ft grass, where we have
big trees in one end of the runway, and I have fly in a constant bank from
the north to land (due to some houses we not are allowed to fly over)
Hope somebody can tell if there is a big difference between asphalt and
grass with a kitfox.
Thanks
Geir Olav
Kitfox IV speedster
Jab2200.
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