Kitfox-List Digest Archive

Tue 08/19/08


Total Messages Posted: 20



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 12:07 AM - (Off-topic) Ancient computers. WAS 100LL/Ethanol Myths - Facts and/or fiction? (Michel Verheughe)
     2. 12:38 AM - Re: (Off-topic) Ancient computers. WAS 100LL/Ethanol Myths - Facts and/or fiction? (Michael Gibbs)
     3. 04:03 AM - Re: Re Gear leg steps (Lynn Matteson)
     4. 04:12 AM - Re: (Off-topic) Ancient computers. WAS 100LL/Ethanol Myths - Facts and/or fiction? (Lynn Matteson)
     5. 04:20 AM - Re: Re Gear leg steps (Harold Flynn)
     6. 04:39 AM - Re: Re: Ethanol - facts and no myths or fiction (Noel Loveys)
     7. 04:40 AM - Re: Aveoflash strobe lights (rawheels)
     8. 08:34 AM - Re: Re: Ethanol - facts and no myths or fiction (Guy Buchanan)
     9. 08:34 AM - Re: (Off-topic) Ancient computers. WAS 100LL/Ethanol Myths - Facts and/or fiction? (Guy Buchanan)
    10. 09:03 AM - Re: Re Gear leg steps (Lynn Matteson)
    11. 11:47 AM - Re: Ethanol - facts and no myths or fiction (bjones@dmv.com)
    12. 03:35 PM - Re: Re: Ethanol - facts and no myths or fiction (Lowell Fitt)
    13. 03:56 PM - Re: RK400 Clutch (Marco Menezes)
    14. 05:05 PM - Avid Kit (Frank Miles)
    15. 06:07 PM - Re: Avid Kit (J.G. Joern)
    16. 07:04 PM - Free Wheeling Prop (jeff puls)
    17. 07:47 PM - Look out below (nick4853)
    18. 08:20 PM - Re: Re Gear leg steps (gary.algate@sandvik.com)
    19. 08:20 PM - Re: Re: Aveoflash strobe lights (gary.algate@sandvik.com)
    20. 08:46 PM - Re: Free Wheeling Prop (Lowell Fitt)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 12:07:21 AM PST US
    From: Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no>
    Subject: (Off-topic) Ancient computers. WAS 100LL/Ethanol Myths -
    Facts and/or fiction? > From: Noel Loveys [noelloveys@yahoo.ca] >My first computer, a TRS 80, only had 32 Kb of memory Good Lord, are you that old, Noel? :-) I started in 1979 with a Commodore Pet with also 32 Kb of memory but it had a different processor than the Tandy. I still have it somewhere in my basement. Maybe one day it will be a collectable item and worth a lot of money ... (wishful thinking! :-) Incidentally, yesterday came the official paper that I've lost my pilot license. I start now the legal process of trying to get it again ... one day. I know that some have got it back but it may take years ... :-( Cheers, Michel Verheughe Norway Kitfox 3 - Jabiru 2200 ... grounded Do not archive <pre><b><font size=2 color="#000000" face="courier new,courier"> </b></font></pre></body></html>


    Message 2


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    Time: 12:38:57 AM PST US
    From: Michael Gibbs <MichaelGibbs@cox.net>
    Subject: Re: (Off-topic) Ancient computers. WAS 100LL/Ethanol Myths
    - Facts and/or fiction? Michel sez: >I start now the legal process of trying to get [my pilot's license] >again ... one day. I know that some have got it back but it may take >years ... :-( A journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step, Michel. Good luck! Mike G. N728KF, Kitfox IV-1200 Speedster Phoenix, AZ Do not archive.


    Message 3


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    Time: 04:03:33 AM PST US
    From: Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt@jps.net>
    Subject: Re: Re Gear leg steps
    My instructions calls for "the landing gear on the Speedster needs to be fitted prior to the covering of the landing gear leg." But it does call for nut plates as the fastening method, drilled right into that "angle welded in the legs for this purpose." So you're right, there is a plate or angle welded between the tubes for the purposes of attaching your step. They also show a flat shield 4" x 7", by .016" 2024-T3 aluminum, with one corner trimmed off by 1 and 1/2" to match the angle of the gear leg. This shield is slid behind the step (and is held in place with the step-attaching bolts) and is to keep your feet from getting against the fabric. Could you cut a hole in the back side of the fabric to facilitate the nut plate installation? Then you could cut a circle of fabric to cover the holes in the fabric when done. They call for driven rivets to hold the nut plates in place, but I think to save having such a large hole as that operation would require, I'd use stainless POP rivets if they come in the size needed for the nut plates...usually 3/32". Lynn Matteson Kitfox IV Speedster Jabiru 2200, 562 hrs and holding for repairs Status: "Condition grounded, but determined to try." (Pink Floyd..."Learning to Fly") do not archive On Aug 18, 2008, at 11:29 PM, gary.algate@sandvik.com wrote: > > Lynn > > Do you have any info as to how the Aluminum angle steps are > fastened to the gear legs. > > Mine are fully faired but I can feel what appears to be a flat > cross brace under the covering at about the right height. I was > wondering whether Skystar recommended bolting through or just > riveting to the tube gear. I'm always reluctant drilling holes in > aircraft structures so I thought I would check first. > > best regards > > Gary > > Gary Algate > Classic 4 jab 2200 > Office Phone: +61 8 8276 7655 > > > This e-mail is confidential and it is intended only for the > addressees. Any review, dissemination, distribution, or copying of > this message by persons or entities other than the intended > recipient is prohibited. If you have received this e-mail in error, > kindly notify us immediately by telephone or e-mail and delete the > message from your system. The sender does not accept liability for > any errors or omissions in the contents of this message which may > arise as a result of the e-mail transmission. _- > www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List _- > www.matronics.com/contribution _- > ===========================================================


    Message 4


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    Time: 04:12:22 AM PST US
    From: Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt@jps.net>
    Subject: Re: (Off-topic) Ancient computers. WAS 100LL/Ethanol Myths
    - Facts and/or fiction? I started out with a Timex-Sinclair which had 8k of memory as I recall, and I had to add a memory "box" of some sort to hop it up to a screaming 16k...whoopee! I later...with guidance...fitted a real keyboard to it...lotsa wires to solder in place, but it worked just dandy. And I still have it. In fact, I made a wooden frame to surround the keyboard, too. Trouble was the damn things changed every few days...the computers in those days, that is...and I got tired of trying to keep up, so I quit trying, and became a computer recluse, refusing to mess with the damn things until the last 10-12 years or so...and now I'm a Mac fan just like Michel. : ) ...but nowhere NEAR as smart. Lynn Matteson Kitfox IV Speedster Jabiru 2200, 562 hrs and holding for repairs Status: "Condition grounded, but determined to try." (Pink Floyd..."Learning to Fly") do not archive On Aug 19, 2008, at 3:06 AM, Michel Verheughe wrote: >> From: Noel Loveys [noelloveys@yahoo.ca] >> My first computer, a TRS 80, only had 32 Kb of memory > > Good Lord, are you that old, Noel? :-) > I started in 1979 with a Commodore Pet with also 32 Kb of memory > but it had a different processor than the Tandy. I still have it > somewhere in my basement. Maybe one day it will be a collectable > item and worth a lot of money ... (wishful thinking! :-) > > Incidentally, yesterday came the official paper that I've lost my > pilot license. I start now the legal process of trying to get it > again ... one day. I know that some have got it back but it may > take years ... :-( > > Cheers, > Michel Verheughe > Norway > Kitfox 3 - Jabiru 2200 ... grounded > > Do not archive > > > <pre><b><font size=2 color="#000000" face="courier new,courier"> > > List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List</a> > forums.matronics.com</a> > www.matronics.com/contribution</a> > > </b></font></pre>


    Message 5


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    Time: 04:20:14 AM PST US
    From: Harold Flynn <hflynn46531@yahoo.com>
    Subject: Re: Re Gear leg steps
    Why not use a rivet nut? --- On Tue, 8/19/08, Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt@jps.net> wrote: From: Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt@jps.net> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Re Gear leg steps My instructions calls for "the landing gear on the Speedster needs to be fitted prior to the covering of the landing gear leg." But it does call for nut plates as the fastening method, drilled right into that "angle welded in the legs for this purpose." So you're right, there is a plate or angle welded between the tubes for the purposes of attaching your step. They also show a flat shield 4" x 7", by .016" 2024-T3 aluminum, with one corner trimmed off by 1 and 1/2" to match the angle of the gear leg. This shield is slid behind the step (and is held in place with the step-attaching bolts) and is to keep your feet from getting against the fabric. Could you cut a hole in the back side of the fabric to facilitate the nut plate installation? Then you could cut a circle of fabric to cover the holes in the fabric when done. They call for driven rivets to hold the nut plates in place, but I think to save having such a large hole as that operation would require, I'd use stainless POP rivets if they come in the size needed for the nut plates...usually 3/32". Lynn Matteson Kitfox IV Speedster Jabiru 2200, 562 hrs and holding for repairs Status: "Condition grounded, but determined to try." (Pink Floyd..."Learning to Fly") do not archive On Aug 18, 2008, at 11:29 PM, gary.algate@sandvik.com wrote: > > Lynn > > Do you have any info as to how the Aluminum angle steps are > fastened to the gear legs. > > Mine are fully faired but I can feel what appears to be a flat > cross brace under the covering at about the right height. I was > wondering whether Skystar recommended bolting through or just > riveting to the tube gear. I'm always reluctant drilling holes in > aircraft structures so I thought I would check first. > > best regards > > Gary > > Gary Algate > Classic 4 jab 2200 > Office Phone: +61 8 8276 7655 > > > This e-mail is confidential and it is intended only for the > addressees. Any review, dissemination, distribution, or copying of > this message by persons or entities other than the intended > recipient is prohibited. If you have received this e-mail in error, > kindly notify us immediately by telephone or e-mail and delete the > message from your system. The sender does not accept liability for > any errors or omissions in the contents of this message which may > arise as a result of the e-mail transmission. _- > www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List _- > www.matronics.com/contribution _- > ===========================================================


    Message 6


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    Time: 04:39:45 AM PST US
    From: "Noel Loveys" <noelloveys@yahoo.ca>
    Subject: Re: Ethanol - facts and no myths or fiction
    Alcohol boils off at around 80C, water at 100C To distil the alcohol and leave the water just boil to 80C using a candy thermometer in the mash. You will get a good flow through the condenser then it will slow down to almost nothing until the remaining water reaches 100C when you see the slow down toss the mash and start another batch. This will give better than 98% alcohol depending on how fast you remove the distilled booze and how cold your condenser is. When in high school we made pretty good potato mash after hours (boarding school) in the chem. Lab using all the nice glass equipment. Noel -----Original Message----- From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Francisco Espuny Sent: Monday, August 18, 2008 10:55 PM Subject: RES: Kitfox-List: Re: Ethanol - facts and no myths or fiction I think that while distiling you should be testing density to "cut" it at the right time and not get too much water inside, no need to worry about the proper temp, just boil it. But I'm wondering if in my case wouldn't it be safer to run an aero engine certified for AVGAS, and I could do the maintainance myself if installed in a experimental plane ("myself" means not enriching the certified hangars and paying the right price for a good and honest mechanic service). It's more confortable for me , once I'm looking for my plane/engine set. It'd be hard if I yet had it inside the hangar. AVGAS is the only option we have that may not change, as it's an international standard to be used everywhere by pilots from any country. -----Mensagem original----- De: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] Em nome de Noel Loveys Enviada em: segunda-feira, 18 de agosto de 2008 21:08 Para: kitfox-list@matronics.com Assunto: RE: Kitfox-List: Re: Ethanol - facts and no myths or fiction I have been told 87 not sure whether that is RON or MON About the water/eth it will not burn... unless you distil it again. Espuny could do that and burn the recovered eth in his car in effect lowering the cost of his flying fuel. It's been a long time since I distilled alcohol ( all the way back to high school) but I think it distils at 80C, standard pressure. Noel


    Message 7


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    Time: 04:40:10 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Aveoflash strobe lights
    From: "rawheels" <rawheels@yahoo.com>
    Gary, It is my understanding that LED strobes do not require separate power supplies, everything is contained on the board in the light assembly. All they require is a 18AWG wire to each light. If you have a power supply in each wingtip, remove them, and just connect the LED strobes to the regular 14 volt wires. -------- Ryan Wheeler Kitfox IV-1200 Indianapolis, IN Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=199479#199479


    Message 8


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    Time: 08:34:27 AM PST US
    From: Guy Buchanan <bnn@nethere.com>
    Subject: Re: Ethanol - facts and no myths or fiction
    At 04:39 AM 8/19/2008, you wrote: >When in high school we made pretty good potato mash after hours >(boarding school) in the chem. Lab using all the nice glass equipment. And though this thread is wandering in more interesting directions, I think the ethanol/100LL fuel discussion has been beaten into submission and I will ask everyone to give it a rest for a while. Thanks, Guy Buchanan, Kitfox List Moderator San Diego, CA K-IV 1200 / 582-C / Warp / 100% done, thanks mostly to Bob Ducar.


    Message 9


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    Time: 08:34:27 AM PST US
    From: Guy Buchanan <bnn@nethere.com>
    Subject: Re: (Off-topic) Ancient computers. WAS 100LL/Ethanol Myths
    - Facts and/or fiction? At 04:12 AM 8/19/2008, you wrote: >and I got tired of >trying to keep up, so I quit trying, and became a computer recluse, >refusing to mess with the damn things until the last 10-12 years or >so...and now I'm a Mac fan just like Michel. : ) ...but nowhere NEAR >as smart. Thanks, guys, for changing the title, but I'm going to ask you to take it off line, as it's definitely not Kitfox related. (I will certainly entertain it if one of you plans to install a computer in your Kitfox!) Guy Buchanan, Kitfox List Moderator San Diego, CA K-IV 1200 / 582-C / Warp / 100% done, thanks mostly to Bob Ducar.


    Message 10


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    Time: 09:03:04 AM PST US
    From: Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt@jps.net>
    Subject: Re: Re Gear leg steps
    I've had aircraft mechanics say that they can loosen and then turn within the hole, leaving you with no easy way to remove the bolt. Since then I've seen the rivet nut up close and they seem to be ok, and I guess I'd use them if it was in a location where I could deal with it if it became a problem. My first choice would be the nut plate, though. It seems more secure to me. Lynn Matteson Kitfox IV Speedster Jabiru 2200, 562 hrs and holding for repairs Status: "Condition grounded, but determined to try." (Pink Floyd..."Learning to Fly") On Aug 19, 2008, at 7:19 AM, Harold Flynn wrote: > Why not use a rivet nut? > > --- On Tue, 8/19/08, Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt@jps.net> wrote: > From: Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt@jps.net> > Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Re Gear leg steps > To: kitfox-list@matronics.com > Date: Tuesday, August 19, 2008, 7:01 AM > > My instructions calls for "the landing gear on the Speedster needs > to be fitted prior to the covering of the landing gear leg." But it > does call for nut plates as the fastening method, drilled right > into that "angle welded in the legs for this purpose." So you're > right, there is a plate or angle welded between the tubes for the > purposes of attaching your step. They also show a flat shield 4" x > 7", by .016" 2024-T3 aluminum, with one corner trimmed off by 1 and > 1/2" to match the angle of the gear leg. This shield is slid behind > the step (and is held in place with the step-attaching bolts) and > is to keep your feet from getting against the fabric. Could you cut > a hole in the back side of the fabric to facilitate the nut plate > installation? Then you could cut a circle of fabric to cover the > holes in the fabric when done. They call for driven rivets to hold > the nut plates in place, but I think to save having such a large > hole as that operation would require, I'd use stainless POP rivets > if they come in the size needed for the nut plates...usually 3/32". > Lynn Matteson Kitfox IV Speedster Jabiru 2200, 562 hrs and holding > for repairs Status: "Condition grounded, but determined to > try." (Pink Floyd..."Learning to Fly") do not archive On Aug 18, > 2008, at 11:29 PM, gary.algate@sandvik.com wrote: > > Lynn > > Do > you have any info as to how the Aluminum angle steps are > fastened > to the gear legs. > > Mine are fully faired but I can feel what > appears to be a flat > cross brace under the covering at about the > right height. I was > wondering whether Skystar recommended bolting > through or just > riveting to the tube gear. I'm always reluctant > drilling holes in > aircraft structures so I thought I would check > first. > > best regards > > Gary > > Gary Algate > Classic 4 jab > 2200 > Office Phone: +61 8 8276 7655 > > > This e-mail is > confidential and it is intended only for the > addressees. Any > review, dissemination, distribution, or copying of > this message > by persons or entities other than the intended > recipient is > prohibited. If you have received this e-mail in error, > kindly > notify us immediately by telephone or e-mail and delete the > > message from your system. The sender does not accept liability for > > any errors or omissions in the contents of this message which may > > arise as a result of the e-mail transmission. _- > > www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List _- > www.matronics.com/ > contribution _- > > =========================================================== > > www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List _- > www.matronics.com/contribution _- > ===========================================================


    Message 11


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    Time: 11:47:51 AM PST US
    From: bjones@dmv.com
    Subject: Ethanol - facts and no myths or fiction
    Local gasoline distributer technicians in my area (Maryland) report that alcohol is not added to thier gasoline until the tanker truck is leaving to drop gas at local gas stations so that the ethanol does not have an opportunity to absorb water during handling, transportation and storage until it leaves the distributer. Regional Gas stations still had complaints about settleout with cars stalled right at the gas station pupms and short distances away. The gas station were supposed to have run their tanks down to 10 % straight gas and removed all water prior to converting to ethanol blended gas to avoid settleout but I got a load of gas with settleout right from the station in a new clean container. By the way The settleout went thru a funnel with the internal fine mesh stand pipe intended to catch water. The handling and transportation of Av-Gas is far more strictly controlled than auto gas, accounting for part of the higher price for Av-Gas. Bjones N154K 443-480-1023 Quoting Noel Loveys <noelloveys@yahoo.ca>: > > I'll answer your question with a question... What's wrong with using a > mixture of say 3/4 washed gas to remove the ethanol and 1/4 100LL? That way > you get a very low lead content fuel with no ethanol and an octane rating of > greater than 91. > > Someone mentioned on this thread that gas will absorb water... They then > went on to describe something less than .05%. After thinking on it a while > I've come up with three considerations. 1 the gas is only able to absorb a > very small limited amount of water where ethanol will dissolve and dilute in > any quantity of water. 2 the gas at your station probably is already > saturated with whatever water it can because most gasoline has travelled > through pipelines. Water is used in pipelines to separate shipments of > petro shipments. 3. The ethanol you are washing out has more affinity for > water than gas. Therefore unless you use an ocean of water to clean your gas > the probability is you will actually remove the water content of the > gasoline. For those reasons I have come to the conclusion that there is no > danger of saturating your gas with water by washing the ethanol out of it. > A worst case scenario is there will be less moisture in the fuel after > "washing" than before "washing". > > Noel > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com > [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Frank Miles > Sent: Sunday, August 17, 2008 7:38 PM > To: kitfox-list@matronics.com > Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Ethanol - facts and no myths or fiction > > <f.miles.tcp.833@clearwire.net> > > Guys, here's a dumb question, maybe. Short of just not flying, what is wrong > with burning a mixture of 1/2 ethanol fuel and 1/2 100LL? Half as much > ethanol and half as much low lead. How much low lead would a person have to > burn to really harm an engine? I am speaking of only the two cycle engines. > > Frank Miles > K-lll w/ 582 > Clarkston, Washington > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com > [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of K&#38MCozik > Sent: Sunday, August 17, 2008 2:45 PM > To: kitfox-list@matronics.com > Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Ethanol - facts and no myths or fiction > > > I agree Bob. Not sure how others are getting away with ethanol but the fuel > that > started dissolving my tank was 10%. My guess is the guys using car gas > without > issue have less than 1 or 2% ethanol, if any at all. > > I'll stick with 100LL since ethanol free is impossible to find here in > Michigan. > Kevin Cozik > Series 6-7 > 914 turbo > Czech floats > Lansing MI > > > On Sun Aug 17 13:25 , 'Bob Brennan' <matronics@bob.brennan.name> sent: > > > > > > > > > > > > >Personally measured > >and observed facts anyway, and as little opinion as > >possible. > >B > >Getting ready for my > >first flight since importing my KF2 from the UK almost 2 years ago, I > decided to > >take what knowledge I had gained from the ethanol debates and apply it, and > I am > >glad that I did. Here is what I have found so far: > >B > >In the UK I used > >"regular" petrol rated at 89 octane and I never tested for ethanol, > although my > >UK built plane is placarded in a number of places warning *not* to use fuel > with > >any alcohol in it. > >B > >I periodically > >ran-up the engine for a year and a half on US regular gas bought a year and > a > >half ago. I know - stale gas, bad move, yada yada... I have already > chastised > >myself on that one. > >B > >I bought new > >"regular" (87 octane, Sam's Club) about a month ago and drained the system > of > >the old gas. I then began noticing dark fuel and black sediment when > draining > >the sump before starting the engine. > >B > >Much to my chagrin I > >noticed my fuel drain tool, bought in the UK years ago, was actually a > >calibrated alcohol tester so I decided to buy and test some local fuel to > find > >something acceptable to fly with. Here is what I found, on this date in > >Wrightsville &York PA: > >B > >Sam's Club Regular - > >$3.44/gal - stated as 87 octane - tested as 6% ethanol > >Rutter's > >PremiumB - $3.85/gal - stated as 93 octane - tested as 5% > >ethanol > >Turkey Hill Premium > >- $3.75/gal - stated asB 92 octane - tested as 0% > >ethanol > >B > >The Turkey Hill gas > >is in my plane, the rest went in my Jeep, and I will buy and test Turkey > Hill > >regular for the rest of my gas-powered toys in future, hoping that also is > >ethanol free. At least for now. > >B > >Now for an opinion - > >contrary to listers who said they use ethanol with no problems - I assume > my > >short use of ethanol-laced regularB (never flying) caused a breakdown of > >rubber fuel elements, true to warnings posted everywhere and the cause of > the > >drained fuel contamination. I will carefully watch for any further > contamination > >(I expect a little yet) and will then replace lines and filter(s). Note > that I > >never ran the engine until all contaminants were drained > >out. > >B > >As stated throughout > >- this is all "for what it's worth" - but I try to base it on experience > rather > >than opinion, andB can post more test results if anyone is interested. Live > > >and loin, I always say... > >B > >B > >Bob Brennan > >1991 UK Model 2 ELSA Kitfox > >Rotax 582 with 3 blade prop > >Wrightsville Pa > >B > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ------------------------------------------------------ This message was sent using Delmarva Online's Webmail. http://www.delmarvaonline.com/


    Message 12


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    Time: 03:35:29 PM PST US
    From: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt@sbcglobal.net>
    Subject: Re: Ethanol - facts and no myths or fiction
    Noel, Makes me wonder. The lawn sprinkled this morning and the overspray disappeard from the sidewalks pretty promptly and it wasn't anything near 80C, let alone 100C. Lowell do not archive ----- Original Message ----- From: "Noel Loveys" <noelloveys@yahoo.ca> Sent: Tuesday, August 19, 2008 4:39 AM Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Re: Ethanol - facts and no myths or fiction > > Alcohol boils off at around 80C, water at 100C To distil the alcohol and > leave the water just boil to 80C using a candy thermometer in the mash. > You will get a good flow through the condenser then it will slow down to > almost nothing until the remaining water reaches 100C when you see the > slow down toss the mash and start another batch. This will give better > than 98% alcohol depending on how fast you remove the distilled booze and > how cold your condenser is. > > When in high school we made pretty good potato mash after hours (boarding > school) in the chem. Lab using all the nice glass equipment. > > Noel > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com > [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Francisco > Espuny > Sent: Monday, August 18, 2008 10:55 PM > To: kitfox-list@matronics.com > Subject: RES: Kitfox-List: Re: Ethanol - facts and no myths or fiction > > <espuny@terra.com.br> > > I think that while distiling you should be testing density to "cut" it at > the right time and not get too much water inside, no need to worry about > the proper temp, just boil it. > But I'm wondering if in my case wouldn't it be safer to run an aero engine > certified for AVGAS, and I could do the maintainance myself if installed > in a experimental plane ("myself" means not enriching the certified > hangars and paying the right price for a good and honest mechanic > service). > It's more confortable for me , once I'm looking for my plane/engine set. > It'd be hard if I yet had it inside the hangar. > AVGAS is the only option we have that may not change, as it's an > international standard to be used everywhere by pilots from any country. > > > -----Mensagem original----- > De: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com > [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] Em nome de Noel Loveys > Enviada em: segunda-feira, 18 de agosto de 2008 21:08 > Para: kitfox-list@matronics.com > Assunto: RE: Kitfox-List: Re: Ethanol - facts and no myths or fiction > > > I have been told 87 not sure whether that is RON or MON > > About the water/eth it will not burn... unless you distil it again. > Espuny could do that and burn the recovered eth in his car in effect > lowering the cost of his flying fuel. It's been a long time since I > distilled alcohol ( all the way back to high school) but I think it > distils at 80C, standard pressure. > > Noel > > >


    Message 13


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    Time: 03:56:57 PM PST US
    From: Marco Menezes <msm_9949@yahoo.com>
    Subject: Re: RK400 Clutch
    It will make your-582 run much smoother at idle, though-you may have tr ouble getting it to idle slow enough (<2400 rpm) once warmed up, for the cl utch to disengage. I did. - Sometimes I-consider the effect the freewheeling prop will have on glide in the event of a complete engine failure. I've been-told it would be abo ut the same, drag-wise, as a solid disk on the nose of the plane. Obviously , not a desirable condition. - Marco Menezes N99KX Model 2 582-90 C-Box --- On Sun, 8/17/08, Guy Buchanan <bnn@nethere.com> wrote: From: Guy Buchanan <bnn@nethere.com> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: RK400 Clutch At 11:52 AM 8/17/2008, you wrote: Anyone using or have an opinion about switching to a RK400 clutch? I need t o replace my hardy disk (not sure yet why it came apart) and was considerin g going to a clutch instead. Any help would be appreciated. Love it, love it, love it. Wouldn't be without it. HOWEVER: 1. I haven't reached the useful life of the first unit and have not had any good information from the makers on how to tell when to replace it. (Other than the prop stops turning.) Still working on this one. 2. I recently had to replace my gearbox seals and bearings. There is some c oncern that the clutch dust causes the lower rear seal to fail pre-maturely , and that once it fails the dust migrates into the box and eats the bearin gs and other seals. (Some evidence of that in my engine.) My seals and bear ings lasted about 230 hours. We're now on iteration number two so we'll see what happens. Fortunately you get a lot of notice of failure. Also fortuna tely a gearbox re-build is fairly cheap, if you work hard to find the beari ngs and seals elsewhere than Rotax. (Pretty good success last time.) Guy Buchanan San Diego, CA K-IV 1200 / 582-C / Warp / 100% done, thanks mostly to Bob Ducar. =0A=0A=0A


    Message 14


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    Time: 05:05:25 PM PST US
    From: "Frank Miles" <f.miles.tcp.833@clearwire.net>
    Subject: Avid Kit
    I have friend looking for an unfinished Avid kit or one that is need of repair. Prefers the high lift wing or heavy hauler model. Does not need or want an engine. Anybody know of such a thing? Frank Miles Clarkston, Washington K-lll w/582


    Message 15


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    Time: 06:07:41 PM PST US
    From: "J.G. Joern" <jgjoern@sisna.com>
    Subject: Re: Avid Kit
    I saw a 1993 Avid Flyer for sale in Kalispell, MT. Phone number is (406) 261-5399 Jeff Joern Whitefish, MT ----- Original Message ----- From: Frank Miles To: kitfox-list@matronics.com Sent: Tuesday, August 19, 2008 5:59 PM Subject: Kitfox-List: Avid Kit I have friend looking for an unfinished Avid kit or one that is need of repair. Prefers the high lift wing or heavy hauler model. Does not need or want an engine. Anybody know of such a thing? Frank Miles Clarkston, Washington K-lll w/582


    Message 16


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    Time: 07:04:38 PM PST US
    From: "jeff puls" <pulsair@mindspring.com>
    Subject: Free Wheeling Prop
    What happens when you can turn the prop and it just keeps cycling and then about 100 rotations later you feel a little compression. It flies fine at high RPMS. My friend has a speedster with a 912 in it. Any thoughts, he is at his wits end. He is ready to pull the heads. Thanks. Jeff Classic IV KTZR


    Message 17


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    Time: 07:47:30 PM PST US
    Subject: Look out below
    From: "nick4853" <nweiskopf@verizon.net>
    I'm a new member of the club just passed my practical test. I bought my plane in April replaced the GSC with a Warp taper tip I contacted the Baltimore Fsdo requesting a 5 hour phase one. The contacted me back saying my plane did not exist. I told them I have an Airworthiness a Registration and a set of Operating Limitations. I sent copies to them and the best explanation was that they ended up in some other airplanes file. Well it took a couple of months of back and forth phone calls for them to come up with a plan. Which was to have me do a new condition inspection, and the Faa inspector personally came out to look at the plane and logs. They knew they had egg on their face otherwise they would have made me pay for a DAR. So three months later I have a brand new plane according to the faa. I hired my instructor to fly the five hours off of the prop. That was August 2 since than I put 20+ hours on it 13 was with him. I now have my sport pilot license and life is good!! I have been blessed to have a wonderfully talented and seasoned instructor who has over 7000 hours and has been flying his champ since 1966 he has taught me a great deal and now I have my license to learn. I Look forward to meeting you guys in the future until then thanks. -------- kitfox !V-1200 Rotax 912ul Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=199576#199576


    Message 18


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    Time: 08:20:29 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Re Gear leg steps
    From: gary.algate@sandvik.com
    Thanks Lynn, I finished painting the wheel pants last night - I ended up using epoxy undercoat followed by the Polytone thinned with Lacquer thinners with the first coat applied while the Epoxy was still tacky. Actually it went really well and the bond appears to be excellent. I've made up the step and will either use a rivet nut as Harold suggests or if necessary cut the covering and just bolt it in place I was initially thinking of using some 3/16" Stainless rivets but given the loads, bolting is probably the best option. Thanks to all Gary Gary Algate Classic 4 jab 2200 Office Phone: +61 8 8276 7655 This e-mail is confidential and it is intended only for the addressees. Any review, dissemination, distribution, or copying of this message by persons or entities other than the intended recipient is prohibited. If you have received this e-mail in error, kindly notify us immediately by telephone or e-mail and delete the message from your system. The sender does not accept liability for any errors or omissions in the contents of this message which may arise as a result of the e-mail transmission.


    Message 19


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    Time: 08:20:29 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Aveoflash strobe lights
    From: gary.algate@sandvik.com
    Thanks Ryan Gary Algate Classic 4 jab 2200 Office Phone: +61 8 8276 7655 This e-mail is confidential and it is intended only for the addressees. Any review, dissemination, distribution, or copying of this message by persons or entities other than the intended recipient is prohibited. If you have received this e-mail in error, kindly notify us immediately by telephone or e-mail and delete the message from your system. The sender does not accept liability for any errors or omissions in the contents of this message which may arise as a result of the e-mail transmission. "rawheels" <rawheels@yahoo.com> Sent by: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com 19/08/2008 09:17 PM Please respond to kitfox-list@matronics.com To kitfox-list@matronics.com cc Subject Kitfox-List: Re: Aveoflash strobe lights Gary, It is my understanding that LED strobes do not require separate power supplies, everything is contained on the board in the light assembly. All they require is a 18AWG wire to each light. If you have a power supply in each wingtip, remove them, and just connect the LED strobes to the regular 14 volt wires. -------- Ryan Wheeler Kitfox IV-1200 Indianapolis, IN Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=199479#199479


    Message 20


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    Time: 08:46:45 PM PST US
    From: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt@sbcglobal.net>
    Subject: Re: Free Wheeling Prop
    Jeff, had this happen to me once. We were on our way to Oshkosh and stopped in wyoming for fuel. It was after fueling that the prop felt like a turbine was behind it. One of our guys is a heavy machine maint. tech in the mining industry of Nevada. His suggestion was a touch of Marvel Mystery Oil so we went into town, but no luck finding it. As second best, he suggested a couple of quarts of automatic transmission fluid, one in each fuel tank. After the mentioned 100 or so rotations, it came to life. We took an evening flight around the countryside and never a problem since. I did have one light cylinder from time to time before that. We thought it was sticking valves. Incidentally, on cross country flights we were using 100LL. There have been several accounts of list members using Marvel Mystery Oil from time to time. I always carried with me after that, but never used it. Lowell ----- Original Message ----- From: "jeff puls" <pulsair@mindspring.com> Sent: Tuesday, August 19, 2008 7:03 PM Subject: Kitfox-List: Free Wheeling Prop What happens when you can turn the prop and it just keeps cycling and then about 100 rotations later you feel a little compression. It flies fine at high RPMS. My friend has a speedster with a 912 in it. Any thoughts, he is at his wits end. He is ready to pull the heads. Thanks. Jeff Classic IV KTZR




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