Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:25 AM - Re: Give me a brake! (dave)
2. 04:47 AM - exhaust pipe clearance (bob noffs)
3. 05:21 AM - Re: exhaust pipe clearance (Lynn Matteson)
4. 05:36 AM - Re: exhaust pipe clearance (Lynn Matteson)
5. 05:56 AM - Re: exhaust pipe clearance (Michel Verheughe)
6. 06:43 AM - Re: Re: Give me a brake! (Marco Menezes)
7. 07:04 AM - Re: exhaust pipe clearance (gary.algate@sandvik.com)
8. 10:17 AM - Re: Re: Give me a brake! (Bob Brennan)
9. 10:23 AM - Re: Re: Give me a brake! (Bob Brennan)
10. 10:28 AM - Re: Re: Give me a brake! (Bob Brennan)
11. 10:45 AM - Re: Give me a brake! (akflyer)
12. 10:56 AM - Re: exhaust pipe clearance (Michel Verheughe)
13. 11:01 AM - Re: Re: Give me a brake! (Marco Menezes)
14. 11:38 AM - Re: Rudder Trim Tab (Michel Verheughe)
15. 11:53 AM - Re: Give me a brake! (akflyer)
16. 12:14 PM - Re: Re: Rudder Trim Tab (Lynn Matteson)
17. 12:37 PM - W&B Page (Jim Corner)
18. 12:52 PM - Re: Re: Give me a brake! (Marco Menezes)
19. 12:58 PM - Re: Re: Rudder Trim Tab (steve eccles)
20. 01:00 PM - Re: W&B Page (SUE MICHAELS)
21. 01:21 PM - Re: Rudder Trim Tab (Michel Verheughe)
22. 01:36 PM - Re: W&B Page (Jim Corner)
23. 01:42 PM - Re: Rudder Trim Tab (Michel Verheughe)
24. 03:12 PM - Re: Give me a brake! (dave)
25. 03:16 PM - Re: Re: Windsceen Lexan (patrick reilly)
26. 03:16 PM - Re: W&B Page (steve eccles)
27. 03:54 PM - Re: W&B Page (fox5flyer)
28. 05:14 PM - Re: Re: Windsceen Lexan (Bob Brennan)
29. 05:16 PM - Re: Re: Give me a brake! (Bob Brennan)
30. 05:50 PM - aerocet 1100 amphibs (vetdrem)
31. 06:29 PM - Re: aerocet 1100 amphibs (akflyer)
32. 06:50 PM - Re: aerocet 1100 amphibs (K&MCozik)
33. 08:41 PM - Re: Re: Windsceen Lexan (patrick reilly)
34. 08:45 PM - Header tank location (Pat Reilly)
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| Subject: | Re: Give me a brake! |
Bob,
I think you asked once before about brakes few months ago and I posted this link for you http://www.cfisher.com/aeroshell.html
You might have killed your seals and might have to renew all seals including calipers
and master cylinders. I would first get a quart or 2 of the proper MIL
SPEC oil and drain your oils and refresh it with new and try it.
Also I would check that your Calipers slide. If one is seized then you will have
less braking pressure from that caliper.
As far as your ground looping -- your brakes are likely to not be the culprit.
Try without brakes and since you should have independent control of each toe
brake then you should be able to apply more evenly .
When I am taxing in larger airports with a strong crosswind I have to ride one
brake sometimes but have never got brake fade.
If you are calling Matco for seal kits them order new pads as well. The guy at
the MATCO service desk is real helpful and has alot of experience with Avids
and Kitfoxes. I think his name is George.
Dave
--------
Rotax Dealer, Ontario Canada
Flying Videos and Kitfox Info
http://www.cfisher.com/
Realtime Kitfox movies to separate the internet chatter from the truth
http://www.youtube.com/profile_videos?user=kitfoxflyer
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 0863#200863
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| Subject: | exhaust pipe clearance |
hi all, i ran this by the jab list with not too much response . how much
clearance are you allowing between the fiberglass cowling and the
exhaust pipe where it passes thru the cowl?
also, any opinions on the effectiveness of a ''lip'' at the rear of
the cowl to pull air from the low pressure chamber of the cowl?
any info appreciated. bob noffs
woodruff, wi
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| Subject: | Re: exhaust pipe clearance |
Bob-
My pipes pass between the cowl lip and the firewall, and there is
probably (can't measure as engine is out) 1--1/2" to 2" all around
pipe. With your 3300 engine (right?) you probably can't flip the
muffler over can you? On my 2200, I could flip the muffler over and
either have the pipes go through the cowl....holes required...or flip
the other way and they pass between the cowl lip and the
firewall....slick! If it was me, I'd give it an inch clearance,
paint it with primer, taxi it and see if it looks "cooked"...if so
add a half-inch more clearance all the way around, and test again.
When in flight, there should be no more higher temps in that area, I
wouldn't think, than what you'd see in a ground-run/taxi situation.
The lip is VERY helpful in drawing out the heated air from the cowl
interior. In fact, it is *strongly* recommended at the Jabiru clinics
to do this.
Lynn Matteson
Kitfox IV Speedster
Jabiru 2200, 562 hrs and holding for repairs
Status: "Condition grounded, but determined to try." (Pink
Floyd..."Learning to Fly")
On Aug 27, 2008, at 7:47 AM, bob noffs wrote:
> hi all, i ran this by the jab list with not too much response . how
> much clearance are you allowing between the fiberglass cowling and
> the exhaust pipe where it passes thru the cowl?
> also, any opinions on the effectiveness of a ''lip'' at the rear
> of the cowl to pull air from the low pressure chamber of the cowl?
> any info appreciated. bob noffs
> woodruff, wi
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List_-
> ============================================================ _-
> forums.matronics.com_-
> ============================================================ _-
> contribution_-
> ===========================================================
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| Subject: | Re: exhaust pipe clearance |
Also, Bob, on that "low pressure" chamber inside the cowl...it
becomes a low pressure area when you have about 3 times the exit area
as compared to the inlet area. You need about 3 times the area in
order to allow for the expanded air to escape...remember that the air
goes into the air inlets as cool air, then becomes heated and
expands, and this expansion is why the 3x larger area is needed. The
lip just makes for a venturi effect, which helps pull the heated air
from the cowl chamber.
Lynn Matteson
Kitfox IV Speedster
Jabiru 2200, 562 hrs and holding for repairs
Status: "Condition grounded, but determined to try." (Pink
Floyd..."Learning to Fly")
On Aug 27, 2008, at 7:47 AM, bob noffs wrote:
> hi all, i ran this by the jab list with not too much response . how
> much clearance are you allowing between the fiberglass cowling and
> the exhaust pipe where it passes thru the cowl?
> also, any opinions on the effectiveness of a ''lip'' at the rear
> of the cowl to pull air from the low pressure chamber of the cowl?
> any info appreciated. bob noffs
> woodruff, wi
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List_-
> ============================================================ _-
> forums.matronics.com_-
> ============================================================ _-
> contribution_-
> ===========================================================
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| Subject: | RE: exhaust pipe clearance |
> From: bob noffs [icubob@newnorth.net]
> also, any opinions on the effectiveness of a ''lip'' at the rear of the cowl
> to pull air from the low pressure chamber of the cowl?
The best there is, Sir!
Here is a photo of my "lip" and it works like marvel to keep my Jabiru the coolest
engine on this side of the galaxy! :-)
http://home.online.no/~michel/tmp/Heater.jpg
Cheers,
Michel Verheughe
Norway
Kitfox 3 - Jabiru 2200 ... flying as PAX
<pre><b><font size=2 color="#000000" face="courier new,courier">
</b></font></pre></body></html>
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| Subject: | Re: Give me a brake! |
Bob:
-
I've had the same experience as you and Lenny's advice-is-spot on. I'll
bet you a beer it's the Buna-N plug that's the culprit. Your master cylind
er is a Matco MC-1. The rebuild kit is p/n MCRBD1 available cheaply from Ma
tco.
-
The plud is glued to the piston with any fast setting adhesive designed for
a petroleul environment. Matco recommends Loctite Black Max. Plug is then
trimmed to length per instructions included with the kit.
-
If the rubber boot is worn, save it!-They don't use it in the newer model
s and no longer supply replacements. Here's the contact stuff I have:
-
George R. Happ
MATCO mfg
801-486-7574 801-486-7581 (F)
www.matcomfg.com
-
Marco Menezes N99KX
Model 2 582-90 C-Box
-
-
-
-
--- On Tue, 8/26/08, akflyer <akflyer_2000@yahoo.com> wrote:
From: akflyer <akflyer_2000@yahoo.com>
Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: Give me a brake!
<akflyer_2000@yahoo.com>
Another thought. I think the little rubber "plug" on the bottom of
the plunger may be the problem. When you get the re-build kit, you have to
glue
the rubber disk on, then sand it off to XX measurement (sorry I am at work
and
wont be home to pull the directions till the 5th) I though well crap, what
they
call for is only a few thousands less than what it comes out to be when you
glue
the whole thing on so I don't need to sand it.... well you could not fill
from the bottom up as those few thousandths was enough to block the hole.
I
then sanded it off, put it back together and it did the same thing you are
describing.. I was pissed as one side worked and the other didn't and I kne
w
darn good and well I had put them both together the same... Well when I pul
led
it back apart, I had flipped something over on the left one just as I think
you
have, but I cant remember exactly what it was (I did it last year).. At any
rate, I bet you just flipped something over when you had it a!
part.
Hopefully this will help you out.
--------
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Leonard Perry
Soldotna AK
Avid "C" / Mk IV
582 IVO IFA
Full Lotus 1260
95% complete
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 0830#200830
=0A=0A=0A
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| Subject: | Re: exhaust pipe clearance |
I agree with Lynn on the cowl lip - I have even increased the outlet area
under my Jab installation (Round Cowl) and fitted additional Aluminum lips
to increase the pressure reduction (See Foto)
regards
Gary
Gary Algate
Classic 4 Jab 2200
Office Phone: +61 8 8276 7655
This e-mail is confidential and it is intended only for the addressees.
Any review, dissemination, distribution, or copying of this message by
persons or entities other than the intended recipient is prohibited. If
you have received this e-mail in error, kindly notify us immediately by
telephone or e-mail and delete the message from your system. The sender
does not accept liability for any errors or omissions in the contents of
this message which may arise as a result of the e-mail transmission.
Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt@jps.net>
Sent by: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
27/08/2008 10:04 PM
Please respond to
kitfox-list@matronics.com
To
kitfox-list@matronics.com
cc
Subject
Re: Kitfox-List: exhaust pipe clearance
Bob-
My pipes pass between the cowl lip and the firewall, and there is
probably (can't measure as engine is out) 1--1/2" to 2" all around
pipe. With your 3300 engine (right?) you probably can't flip the
muffler over can you? On my 2200, I could flip the muffler over and
either have the pipes go through the cowl....holes required...or flip
the other way and they pass between the cowl lip and the
firewall....slick! If it was me, I'd give it an inch clearance,
paint it with primer, taxi it and see if it looks "cooked"...if so
add a half-inch more clearance all the way around, and test again.
When in flight, there should be no more higher temps in that area, I
wouldn't think, than what you'd see in a ground-run/taxi situation.
The lip is VERY helpful in drawing out the heated air from the cowl
interior. In fact, it is *strongly* recommended at the Jabiru clinics
to do this.
Lynn Matteson
Kitfox IV Speedster
Jabiru 2200, 562 hrs and holding for repairs
Status: "Condition grounded, but determined to try." (Pink
Floyd..."Learning to Fly")
On Aug 27, 2008, at 7:47 AM, bob noffs wrote:
> hi all, i ran this by the jab list with not too much response . how
> much clearance are you allowing between the fiberglass cowling and
> the exhaust pipe where it passes thru the cowl?
> also, any opinions on the effectiveness of a ''lip'' at the rear
> of the cowl to pull air from the low pressure chamber of the cowl?
> any info appreciated. bob noffs
> woodruff, wi
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List_-
> ============================================================ _-
> forums.matronics.com_-
> ============================================================ _-
> contribution_-
> ===========================================================
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Give me a brake! |
Thanks Dave - you always come up with a variety of possibilities that others
may not have thought of and I appreciate it.
I got a quart of the proper Aeroshell MIL-5606 today from a local FBO who
happened to have a 1/4 full gallon can so I was lucky. I will purge both
systems and use that. The non-synth oil was only in for a few days although
I can't be sure what the previous owner used, but it wasn't bright red.
I will order the rebuild kits from Matco and replace all seals in the master
cylinders. The calipers appear to be fine, as I stated earlier I tested the
faulty cylinder stand-alone so as to eliminate the other possibilities you
mention below. From the links Leonard Perry sent it is almost certainly the
plug in the piston that is bad and I suspect it has been bad since I have
owned the plane.
Regarding ground loops - I thought it was me but in retrospect it only
happened when braking on a short roll-out, I applied brakes evenly (I
thought!) but then the hydraulic pressure in the left brake faded as the
piston leaks = all right brake going at 20mph. Try it - you'll loop too!
Thanks again,
Bob Brennan - N717GB
1991 UK Model 2 ELSA Kitfox
Rotax 582 with 3 blade prop
Wrightsville Pa
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of dave
Sent: 27 August 2008 6:25 am
Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: Give me a brake!
Bob,
I think you asked once before about brakes few months ago and I posted this
link for you http://www.cfisher.com/aeroshell.html
You might have killed your seals and might have to renew all seals including
calipers and master cylinders. I would first get a quart or 2 of the
proper MIL SPEC oil and drain your oils and refresh it with new and try it.
Also I would check that your Calipers slide. If one is seized then you will
have less braking pressure from that caliper.
As far as your ground looping -- your brakes are likely to not be the
culprit. Try without brakes and since you should have independent control
of each toe brake then you should be able to apply more evenly .
When I am taxing in larger airports with a strong crosswind I have to ride
one brake sometimes but have never got brake fade.
If you are calling Matco for seal kits them order new pads as well. The guy
at the MATCO service desk is real helpful and has alot of experience with
Avids and Kitfoxes. I think his name is George.
Dave
--------
Rotax Dealer, Ontario Canada
Flying Videos and Kitfox Info
http://www.cfisher.com/
Realtime Kitfox movies to separate the internet chatter from the truth
http://www.youtube.com/profile_videos?user=kitfoxflyer
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 0863#200863
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Give me a brake! |
Leonard - I think you've hit it square on the head mate! These links are
invaluable and I will be ordering the repair kits for both cylinders
immediately. I also managed to score a quart of the proper Aeroshell brake
fluid so I will be replacing the fluid in both systems.
One thing though - I couldn't see how to disconnect the piston from the rod
to get to that plug, as far as I can see the piston is on a ball joint of
some sort. Hopefully the kit will provide instructions how to get to that
plug unless any of you have already done a rebuild like this?
Thanks again for the help - I love this list!
Bob Brennan - N717GB
1991 UK Model 2 ELSA Kitfox
Rotax 582 with 3 blade prop
Wrightsville Pa
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of akflyer
Sent: 26 August 2008 11:36 pm
Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: Give me a brake!
http://matco.elixirlabs.com/users/matco/images/mastercylinder1a.jpg
Order rebuild kit MCMCRBD1.
Sorry for the multiple posts, but a little more digging on the matco site
and I found the master you have. Here is the proper drawing for it.
--------
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Leonard Perry
Soldotna AK
Avid "C" / Mk IV
582 IVO IFA
Full Lotus 1260
95% complete
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 0832#200832
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Give me a brake! |
Thanks Marco - You would win that beer for sure, what's your favorite<g>?
Have you removed the piston from the rod to get to that plug on your own
equipment? I would like to inspect it asap just to be certain it is the
culprit, but I am afraid of breaking the swivel joint.
I will save the boots thanks, I save everything...
Bob Brennan - N717GB
1991 UK Model 2 ELSA Kitfox
Rotax 582 with 3 blade prop
Wrightsville Pa
_____
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Marco Menezes
Sent: 27 August 2008 9:42 am
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Re: Give me a brake!
Bob:
I've had the same experience as you and Lenny's advice is spot on. I'll bet
you a beer it's the Buna-N plug that's the culprit. Your master cylinder is
a Matco MC-1. The rebuild kit is p/n MCRBD1 available cheaply from Matco.
The plud is glued to the piston with any fast setting adhesive designed for
a petroleul environment. Matco recommends Loctite Black Max. Plug is then
trimmed to length per instructions included with the kit.
If the rubber boot is worn, save it! They don't use it in the newer models
and no longer supply replacements. Here's the contact stuff I have:
George R. Happ
MATCO mfg
801-486-7574 801-486-7581 (F)
<http://www.matcomfg.com> www.matcomfg.com
Marco Menezes N99KX
Model 2 582-90 C-Box
--- On Tue, 8/26/08, akflyer <akflyer_2000@yahoo.com> wrote:
From: akflyer <akflyer_2000@yahoo.com>
Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: Give me a brake!
<akflyer_2000@yahoo.com>
Another thought. I think the little rubber "plug" on the bottom of
the plunger may be the problem. When you get the re-build kit, you have to
glue
the rubber disk on, then sand it off to XX measurement (sorry I am at work
and
wont be home to pull the directions till the 5th) I though well crap, what
they
call for is only a few thousands less than what it comes out to be when you
glue
the whole thing on so I don't need to sand it.... well you could not fill
from the bottom up as those few thousandths was enough to block the hole. I
then sanded it off, put it back together and it did the same thing you are
describing.. I was pissed as one side worked and the other didn't and I knew
darn good and well I had put them both together the same... Well when I
pulled
it back apart, I had flipped something over on the left one just as I think
you
have, but I cant remember exactly what it was (I did it last year).. At any
rate, I bet you just flipped something over when you had it a!
part.
Hopefully this will help you out.
--------
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Leonard Perry
Soldotna AK
Avid "C" / Mk IV
582 IVO IFA
Full Lotus 1260
95% complete
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 0830#200830
D========================
=========
D========================
=========
D========================
=========
D========================
=========
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| Subject: | Re: Give me a brake! |
Bob, there is a little snap ring that holds it in. Take a look at the pic in the
link and you will see it. It is a little tiny bugger that I just used two
picks to pull out.
--------
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Leonard Perry
Soldotna AK
Avid "C" / Mk IV
582 IVO IFA
Full Lotus 1260
95% complete
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 0953#200953
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| Subject: | RE: exhaust pipe clearance |
> From: gary.algate@sandvik.com
> I have even increased the outlet area
> under my Jab installation (Round Cowl) and fitted additional Aluminum lips
> to increase the pressure reduction (See Foto)
Size wise, yours looks pretty much like mine, Gary.
... I mean ... well, you know what I mean! :-)
Cheers,
Michel Verheughe
Norway
Kitfox 3 - Jabiru 2200
Do not archive
<pre><b><font size=2 color="#000000" face="courier new,courier">
</b></font></pre></body></html>
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| Subject: | Re: Give me a brake! |
Hey Bob.
-
I'm sure I did if that's how you get to the plug because I do remember repl
acing the plug. Don't ask me how though, as it's been about 4 years ago. As
k George at Matco. I recall he was very helpful.
When I got the plane, brakes were brand new, installed-dry. I put in the
red fluid, bled them and went out for taxi tests. Left was squishy from the
get-go, no amount of bleeding would fix them so I did the-rebuild. Every
thing-was fine after that. Never hand any trouble with right side.
-
Marco Menezes N99KX
Model 2 582-90 C-Box
-
-
--
--- On Wed, 8/27/08, Bob Brennan <matronics@bob.brennan.name> wrote:
From: Bob Brennan <matronics@bob.brennan.name>
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Re: Give me a brake!
Thanks Marco - You would win that beer for sure, what's your favorite<g>?
-
Have you removed the piston from the rod to get to that plug on your own eq
uipment? I would like to inspect it asap just to be certain it is the culpr
it, but I am afraid of breaking the swivel joint.
-
I will save the boots thanks, I save everything...
-
-
Bob Brennan - N717GB
1991 UK Model 2 ELSA Kitfox
Rotax 582 with 3 blade prop
Wrightsville Pa
-
-
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-serv
er@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Marco Menezes
Sent: 27 August 2008 9:42 am
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Re: Give me a brake!
Bob:
-
I've had the same experience as you and Lenny's advice-is-spot on. I'll
bet you a beer it's the Buna-N plug that's the culprit. Your master cylind
er is a Matco MC-1. The rebuild kit is p/n MCRBD1 available cheaply from Ma
tco.
-
The plud is glued to the piston with any fast setting adhesive designed for
a petroleul environment. Matco recommends Loctite Black Max. Plug is then
trimmed to length per instructions included with the kit.
-
If the rubber boot is worn, save it!-They don't use it in the newer model
s and no longer supply replacements. Here's the contact stuff I have:
-
George R. Happ
MATCO mfg
801-486-7574 801-486-7581 (F)
www.matcomfg.com
-
Marco Menezes N99KX
Model 2 582-90 C-Box
-
-
-
-
--- On Tue, 8/26/08, akflyer <akflyer_2000@yahoo.com> wrote:
From: akflyer <akflyer_2000@yahoo.com>
Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: Give me a brake!
<akflyer_2000@yahoo.com>
Another thought. I think the little rubber "plug" on the bottom of
the plunger may be the problem. When you get the re-build kit, you have to
glue
the rubber disk on, then sand it off to XX measurement (sorry I am at work
and
wont be home to pull the directions till the 5th) I though well crap, what
they
call for is only a few thousands less than what it comes out to be when you
glue
the whole thing on so I don't need to sand it.... well you could not fill
from the bottom up as those few thousandths was enough to block the hole.
I
then sanded it off, put it back together and it did the same thing you are
describing.. I was pissed as one side worked and the other didn't and I kne
w
darn good and well I had put them both together the same... Well when I pul
led
it back apart, I had flipped something over on the left one just as I think
you
have, but I cant remember exactly what it was (I did it last year).. At any
rate, I bet you just flipped something over when you had it a!
part.
Hopefully this will help you out.
--------
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Leonard Perry
Soldotna AK
Avid "C" / Mk IV
582 IVO IFA
Full Lotus 1260
95% complete
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 0830#200830
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| Subject: | RE: Rudder Trim Tab |
Lynn and John, I am not sure I understand that about the rudder trim tab. If it
corrects for the prop under WOT, then it must induce yaw in the other direction
at idle, rigth? Did I miss something?
Anyway, I think I'll do like Gary; I'll use a balsa wedge under the left flaperon.
Cheers,
Michel Verheughe
Norway
Kitfox 3 - Jabiru 2200 ... flying as PAX
<pre><b><font size=2 color="#000000" face="courier new,courier">
</b></font></pre></body></html>
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| Subject: | Re: Give me a brake! |
so far that is 3 or 4 of us that have had issues with the left side only... sup
wit dat?
gonna take a few MGD's and a few toddies to figure this one out.
--------
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Leonard Perry
Soldotna AK
Avid "C" / Mk IV
582 IVO IFA
Full Lotus 1260
95% complete
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 0970#200970
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: RE: Rudder Trim Tab |
It always corrects in the same direction regardless of throttle
position...that is, fast engine speed or idle. If you stick your hand
out the window of your car (are the docs letting you drive a car, by
the way? I was kept from driving for about 3 weeks, as I recall after
a 5-way bypass surgery in year 2000), it won't make any difference
how fast you go, the hand will always deflect up, if you hold it
slightly up, (or down, if you hold it down) no matter how fast you
go....except at really slow speeds, where the wind against it won't
make it change.
Think of a sail...NOW I'm talkin' your language....I'm no sailor, but
it seems if the sail is set to blow you in one direction in a strong
wind, and the wind dies down, you don't really change direction, do
you? That may not be a good example. Ok, try this....your rudder is
straight ahead (or behind, actually), and you stick something on one
side of it which catches the air. This will make it push the rudder
to the other side *slightly*....this is all you are doing with a
rudder, or any other "trim tab." That little tab that is attached to
the rudder, elevator, flap, or aileron, is taking the place of you
exerting a slight pressure on the control of that flight surface (the
rudder, elevator, flap, or aileron) and lets you remove your foot or
hand from that control. The more effort you had to exert to keep the
plane flying straight, level or yawed correctly, the larger the tab
surface needs to be, or it needs to be bent into the airstream more
to correct for larger errors in flight direction.
And don't forget....the attached tab, bent into the airstream will
only correct for one speed, or limited range of speeds...like say
75-85 knots,or 50-60 knots...and above or below that it corrects too
much, or not enough. That's the beauty of having an in-cockpit
adjustable trim tab...you can go a little faster or slower, and
compensate for any misalignment of flight direction with the trim tab.
And when I say "bent into the airstream" I mean maybe 5-10 degrees in
a trailing direction...the tail end of the tab will stick out into
the airstream, not the front of the tab. Look around your airport,
Michel, and you'll see lots of examples of trim tabs, some ground
adjustable some cockpit-controlled...some with mechanical linkages,
some with electrical servos.
Lynn Matteson
Kitfox IV Speedster
Jabiru 2200, 562 hrs and holding for repairs
Status: "Condition grounded, but determined to try." (Pink
Floyd..."Learning to Fly")
On Aug 27, 2008, at 2:37 PM, Michel Verheughe wrote:
> Lynn and John, I am not sure I understand that about the rudder
> trim tab. If it corrects for the prop under WOT, then it must
> induce yaw in the other direction at idle, rigth? Did I miss
> something?
>
> Anyway, I think I'll do like Gary; I'll use a balsa wedge under the
> left flaperon.
>
> Cheers,
> Michel Verheughe
> Norway
> Kitfox 3 - Jabiru 2200 ... flying as PAX
>
>
> <pre><b><font size=2 color="#000000" face="courier new,courier">
>
> List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List</a>
> forums.matronics.com</a>
> www.matronics.com/contribution</a>
>
> </b></font></pre>
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My pre-flight inspection was just completed but I need a copy of page
113 from the series 5 builders manual. Mine seems to have
disappeared and
I require the page that shows Flight CG limits, as well as gross
weight limits to complete the paperwork. I think page 113 is the
correct one as it is the only one I can't find.
Can someone out there help?
Email to jcorner@shaw.ca
IMGP2902.JPG
IMGP2911.JPG
Jim Corner
Model 2, 582,. Ivo med !FA, 1100 hrs
Model 5 under construction
Calgary, AB
<pre><b><font size=2 color="#000000" face="courier new,courier">
</b></font></pre></body></html>
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| Subject: | Re: Give me a brake! |
Lefties always burn out faster Lenny. ;-)
do not archive
-
Marco Menezes N99KX
Model 2 582-90 C-Box
--- On Wed, 8/27/08, akflyer <akflyer_2000@yahoo.com> wrote:
From: akflyer <akflyer_2000@yahoo.com>
Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: Give me a brake!
<akflyer_2000@yahoo.com>
so far that is 3 or 4 of us that have had issues with the left side only...
sup
wit dat?
gonna take a few MGD's and a few toddies to figure this one out.
--------
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Leonard Perry
Soldotna AK
Avid "C" / Mk IV
582 IVO IFA
Full Lotus 1260
95% complete
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 0970#200970
=0A=0A=0A
Message 19
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| Subject: | RE: Rudder Trim Tab |
Michael
while you are just flying along when you apply just a bit of rudder does the
heavy wing go away or do you still have to correct with the ailerons? just
curious because my model 5 had the same problem and no matter what I did it
would not straighten out UNTIL I installed the rudder trim tab, once that
was adjusted for the yaw correction everything was fine ..
just another opinion
Steve
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michel
Verheughe
Sent: Wednesday, August 27, 2008 1:38 PM
Subject: Kitfox-List: RE: Rudder Trim Tab
Lynn and John, I am not sure I understand that about the rudder trim tab. If
it corrects for the prop under WOT, then it must induce yaw in the other
direction at idle, rigth? Did I miss something?
Anyway, I think I'll do like Gary; I'll use a balsa wedge under the left
flaperon.
Cheers,
Michel Verheughe
Norway
Kitfox 3 - Jabiru 2200 ... flying as PAX
<pre><b><font size=2 color="#000000" face="courier new,courier">
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List">http://www.matronics.c
om/Navigator?Kitfox-List</a>
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com</a>
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contri
bution</a>
</b></font></pre>
Message 20
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Go to the Kitfox web site and click on technical you will find the weight a
nd balance info.=0A-=0AGeorge=0A=0A=0A=0A----- Original Message ----=0AFr
om: Jim Corner <jcorner@shaw.ca>=0ATo: kitfox-list@matronics.com=0ASent: We
dnesday, August 27, 2008 12:36:30 PM=0ASubject: Kitfox-List: W&B Page=0A=0A
My pre-flight inspection was just completed but I need a copy of page-
=0A113 from the series 5 builders manual.- Mine seems to have- =0Adisap
peared and=0A=0AI require the page that shows Flight CG limits, as well as
gross- =0Aweight limits to complete the paperwork.- I think page 113 is
the- =0Acorrect one as it is the only one I can't find.=0A=0ACan someone
out there help?=0A=0AEmail to jcorner@shaw.ca=0A=0A=0A=0AIMGP2902.JPG=0A
=0A=0A=0AIMGP2911.JPG=0A=0A=0AJim Corner=0AModel 2, 582,. Ivo med !FA, 1100
hrs=0AModel 5 under construction=0ACalgary, AB=0A=0A<pre><b><font size=2
=- --> <a href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List">http:
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -Matt Dralle, List
=0A=0A</b></font></pre>
Message 21
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| Subject: | RE: Rudder Trim Tab |
> From: steve eccles [eccles@Chartermi.net]
> while you are just flying along when you apply just a bit of rudder does the
> heavy wing go away or do you still have to correct with the ailerons?
Well Steve, when I fly level at cruise speed, I only need a very slight pressure
on the right pedal to keep the ball in the middle. When I fly like that, yes,
the right wing is heavy and I have to correct with the flaperons. Now, I haven't
tried with the ball on one or the other side.
My problem for the moment is that I can't go to the airfield to work on the plane
because I don't have a driving license. But I will maybe try the rudder tab
in time. See my next email to Lynn.
Cheers,
Michel Verheughe
Norway
Kitfox 3 - Jabiru 2200 ... flying as a PAX
<pre><b><font size=2 color="#000000" face="courier new,courier">
</b></font></pre></body></html>
Message 22
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Thanks George, the information is there but I think page 113 is
better suited to my documentation purposes if someone would copy it
for me..
Jim
On 27-Aug-08, at 1:59 PM, SUE MICHAELS wrote:
Go to the Kitfox web site and click on technical you will find the
weight and balance info.
George
----- Original Message ----
From: Jim Corner <jcorner@shaw.ca>
Sent: Wednesday, August 27, 2008 12:36:30 PM
Subject: Kitfox-List: W&B Page
My pre-flight inspection was just completed but I need a copy of page
113 from the series 5 builders manual. Mine seems to have
disappeared and
I require the page that shows Flight CG limits, as well as gross
weight limits to complete the paperwork. I think page 113 is the
correct one as it is the only one I can't find.
Can someone out there help?
Email to jcorner@shaw.ca
IMGP2902.JPG
IMGP2911.JPG
Jim Corner
Model 2, 582,. Ivo med !FA, 1100 hrs
Model 5 under construction
Calgary,
_-
========================
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_-
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Message 23
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| Subject: | RE: Rudder Trim Tab |
> From: Lynn Matteson [lynnmatt@jps.net]
> It always corrects in the same direction regardless of throttle
> position...that is, fast engine speed or idle.
Well Lynn, I don't remember too much from my theory books but I think a propeller
induce four things and I remember three of them. First, the torque that induces
a roll. Then the prop in a climb that has a higher angle of incidence on
the down blade than the up. That also induces roll. Last, the prop wash that spiral
around the fuselage and hit the vertical stab on one side or the other.
This induces yaw.
Now, if I have a tab on the rudder and I fly twice as fast, the pressure on the
rudder will be four time as great but so will be the pressure on the tab; thus
they even out. Okay.
But say you fly at 90 MPH at full throttle then you pull the throttle to idle and
push the nose down to keep the same speed. The pressure on the rudder and tab
will be the same because the speed is the same, but the side pressure on the
vertical stab will be less because the prop is spinning much slower. Hence the
effect of the tab in correcting the induced yaw will be different. ... or is
it not?
I have lost my driving license for at least one year. I may ask to have it back
in one year time if I can prove that I didn't had a new incident during that
time. The difference between us is that you had a heart attack. I had a heart
attack followed by a cardiac arrest of five minutes. When you loose consciousness
because of e.g. epileptic seizure or cardiac arrest or anything that makes
you unconscious, you cannot drive a car or even a motorcycle during a certain
time. In Norway, the minimum is one year.
The reason I got an implanted cardiac defibrillator is that there is now a chance
that I go into cardiac arrest again. Thousands of people die like that every
year. They simply fall death in the street of in their sleep. I was fortunate
that it started by a mild heart attack and I was already in the ambulance when
my heart stopped beating, or actually went into ventricular fibrillation.
Cheers,
Michel Verheughe
Norway
Kitfox 3 - Jabiru 2200 ... flying as PAX
<pre><b><font size=2 color="#000000" face="courier new,courier">
</b></font></pre></body></html>
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| Subject: | Re: Give me a brake! |
Bob, you will likely need black loctite to glue on the buna plug when you get
your matco kit.
Once again -- make sure that both calpiers are free and do slide freely .......
you can get drag and/or less pressure to non sliding caliper. I had exactly
the same issue before.
Dave
--------
Rotax Dealer, Ontario Canada
Flying Videos and Kitfox Info
http://www.cfisher.com/
Realtime Kitfox movies to separate the internet chatter from the truth
http://www.youtube.com/profile_videos?user=kitfoxflyer
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 1012#201012
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: Windsceen Lexan |
Bob=2C Yes=2C I used the heat gun to bend or form plexi as well as drilling
. I built a 2 piece windshield / cabin top. The cabin top is smoked and the
windshield clear. They overlap at the crossmember at the top of the windsh
ield and are riveted together. I did form the cabintop down with heat to la
p under the windshield. I believe it is recommended to heat the 1 piece win
dshield after it is bent to relieve the stress at the major bends. Anyway g
et a heat gun some plexi and practice.
Pat Reilly
Mod 3 582 Rebuild
Rockford=2C IL
From: matronics@bob.brennan.nameTo: kitfox-list@matronics.comSubject: RE: K
itfox-List: Re: Windsceen LexanDate: Tue=2C 26 Aug 2008 20:03:59 -0400
Pat - how about for bending? I would think that would be more important tha
t it be warm (more flexible?) when bent(?)
I know I'm more flexible when I'm bent... =3B-)
Bob Brennan - N717GB
1991 UK Model 2 ELSA Kitfox
Rotax 582 with 3 blade prop
Wrightsville Pa
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-serv
er@matronics.com] On Behalf Of patrick reillySent: 26 August 2008 7:56 pmTo
: kitfox-list@matronics.comSubject: RE: Kitfox-List: Re: Windsceen Lexan
Bob=2C I think I heated to 120 degrees before drilling. I can't really reme
mber. I used a heat gun=2C as I said=2C and a laser thermometer and practic
ed on a scrap piece first. Do not archive Pat ReillyMod 3 582 RebuildRockfo
rd=2C IL
From: matronics@bob.brennan.nameTo: kitfox-list@matronics.comSubject: RE: K
itfox-List: Re: Windsceen LexanDate: Mon=2C 25 Aug 2008 19:34:06 -0400
Pat=2C
I was thinking that the previous owner hadn't heated the current windscreen
properly=2C or probably not at all=2C which is why I am getting stress cra
cks. In general the recommendation for lexan=2C that I have seen=2C is to n
ot try to work with it at all under 70F. I am thinking the warmer the day t
he better for working with lexan. And warm days in the UK.... well let's ju
st say it's a rarity!
Bob Brennan - N717GB1991 UK Model 2 ELSA KitfoxRotax 582 with 3 blade propW
rightsville Pa
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-serv
er@matronics.com] On Behalf Of patrick reillySent: 25 August 2008 6:40 pmTo
: kitfox-list@matronics.comSubject: RE: Kitfox-List: Re: Windsceen Lexan
Dave=2C You want a dull bit that won't grab. ACS sells a special plexi bit
=2C but I didn't use one. You can heat the material with a heat gun also th
en it is not brittle. I don't remember how hot I got it. I used a laser the
rmometer to test to get right temp in practice and then heated to that temp
before drilling. Worked good for me. Pat ReillyMod 3 582 RebuildRockford
=2C IL> From: matronics@bob.brennan.name> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com> Su
bject: RE: Kitfox-List: Re: Windsceen Lexan> Date: Mon=2C 25 Aug 2008 18:25
b.brennan.name>> > Thanks Dave=2C> > So that sounds like a recommendation f
or .080 or .093? I don't have a> micrometer but the current windscreen star
ts to pulsate at a little over 75=2C> so it must be .060(?)> > There are so
me fairly sharp curves on my KF2=2C which is where the cracks> occurred. I
am planning to use the old pieces as templates and cut the new> with a Drem
el with a cut-off wheel. With that I should be able to also> smooth the edg
es. I imagine that using the right kind of drill bit to drill> the rivet ho
les is important too=2C don't want any cracks there. A> metal-drilling bit?
> > Bob Brennan - N717GB> 1991 UK Model 2 ELSA Kitfox> Rotax 582 with 3 bla
de prop> Wrightsville Pa > > -----Original Message-----> From: owner-kitfox
-list-server@matronics.com> [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]
On Behalf Of dave> Sent: 25 August 2008 5:08 pm> To: kitfox-list@matronics
.com> Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: Windsceen Lexan> > --> Kitfox-List message
posted by: "dave" <dave@cfisher.com>> > Bob=2C > > 060 will work and easy t
o work with> it will flex over 75 mph .> I have .125 and it is harder to wo
rk with. > > Make sure you smooth the edges well as cracks can propagate fr
om Lexan if> not smoothed . > > > Dave> > --------> Rotax Dealer=2C Ontario
Canada> Flying Videos and Kitfox Info> http://www.cfisher.com/> Realtime K
itfox movies to separate the internet chatter from the truth > http://www.y
outube.com/profile_videos?user=kitfoxflyer> > > > > Read this topic onlin
e here:> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 0519#200519> > >
> > > > > > >====================>
> >
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List">http://www.matronhr
ef="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
target=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List
ttp://forums.matronics.com
=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List">http://www.matronhr
ef="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
Message 26
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Jim
nice looking bird,, I will look to see if I have that page in my manual and
if I do I will send it to you.
Steve
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim Corner
Sent: Wednesday, August 27, 2008 2:37 PM
Subject: Kitfox-List: W&B Page
My pre-flight inspection was just completed but I need a copy of page
113 from the series 5 builders manual. Mine seems to have disappeared and
I require the page that shows Flight CG limits, as well as gross weight
limits to complete the paperwork. I think page 113 is the correct one as it
is the only one I can't find.
Can someone out there help?
Email to jcorner@shaw.ca
Message 27
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Jim, I have page 113 sitting here in front of me. My fax machine is
currently tango uniform, but if you can wait a couple days, I can snailmail
it to you if you send your address. Or I can photo copy and email to you.
Your choice. It is actually 113 thru 116 so let me know what you want.
Deke Morisse
Mikado Michigan
S5/Subaru/CAP 391+ TT
"The aim of an argument or discussion should not be victory, but progress."
- Joseph Joubert
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Corner" <jcorner@shaw.ca>
Sent: Wednesday, August 27, 2008 3:36 PM
Subject: Kitfox-List: W&B Page
> My pre-flight inspection was just completed but I need a copy of page
> 113 from the series 5 builders manual. Mine seems to have
> disappeared and
>
> I require the page that shows Flight CG limits, as well as gross
> weight limits to complete the paperwork. I think page 113 is the
> correct one as it is the only one I can't find.
>
> Can someone out there help?
>
> Email to jcorner@shaw.ca
>
>
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> IMGP2902.JPG
>
>
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> IMGP2911.JPG
>
>
> Jim Corner
> Model 2, 582,. Ivo med !FA, 1100 hrs
> Model 5 under construction
> Calgary, AB
>
> <pre><b><font size=2 color="#000000" face="courier new,courier">
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List</a>
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com</a>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution</a>
>
> </b></font></pre>
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: Windsceen Lexan |
Pat - I like the idea of smoked lexan (BTW you did mean "lexan" didn't you?
not "plexi"?) on the top. My first flight out and I forgot to where my cap -
serious sunburn on my forehead and "thinning regions". Where did you get
smoked lexan?
Bob Brennan - N717GB
1991 UK Model 2 ELSA Kitfox
Rotax 582 with 3 blade prop
Wrightsville Pa
_____
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of patrick reilly
Sent: 27 August 2008 6:16 pm
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Re: Windsceen Lexan
Bob, Yes, I used the heat gun to bend or form plexi as well as drilling. I
built a 2 piece windshield / cabin top. The cabin top is smoked and the
windshield clear. They overlap at the crossmember at the top of the
windshield and are riveted together. I did form the cabintop down with heat
to lap under the windshield. I believe it is recommended to heat the 1 piece
windshield after it is bent to relieve the stress at the major bends. Anyway
get a heat gun some plexi and practice.
Pat Reilly
Mod 3 582 Rebuild
Rockford, IL
_____
From: matronics@bob.brennan.name
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Re: Windsceen Lexan
Pat - how about for bending? I would think that would be more important that
it be warm (more flexible?) when bent(?)
I know I'm more flexible when I'm bent... ;-)
Bob Brennan - N717GB
1991 UK Model 2 ELSA Kitfox
Rotax 582 with 3 blade prop
Wrightsville Pa
_____
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of patrick reilly
Sent: 26 August 2008 7:56 pm
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Re: Windsceen Lexan
Bob, I think I heated to 120 degrees before drilling. I can't really
remember. I used a heat gun, as I said, and a laser thermometer and
practiced on a scrap piece first.
Do not archive
Pat Reilly
Mod 3 582 Rebuild
Rockford, IL
_____
From: matronics@bob.brennan.name
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Re: Windsceen Lexan
Pat,
I was thinking that the previous owner hadn't heated the current windscreen
properly, or probably not at all, which is why I am getting stress cracks.
In general the recommendation for lexan, that I have seen, is to not try to
work with it at all under 70F. I am thinking the warmer the day the better
for working with lexan. And warm days in the UK.... well let's just say it's
a rarity!
Bob Brennan - N717GB
1991 UK Model 2 ELSA Kitfox
Rotax 582 with 3 blade prop
Wrightsville Pa
_____
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of patrick reilly
Sent: 25 August 2008 6:40 pm
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Re: Windsceen Lexan
Dave, You want a dull bit that won't grab. ACS sells a special plexi bit,
but I didn't use one. You can heat the material with a heat gun also then it
is not brittle. I don't remember how hot I got it. I used a laser
thermometer to test to get right temp in practice and then heated to that
temp before drilling. Worked good for me.
Pat Reilly
Mod 3 582 Rebuild
Rockford, IL
> From: matronics@bob.brennan.name
> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Re: Windsceen Lexan
> Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2008 18:25:07 -0400
>
<matronics@bob.brennan.name>
>
> Thanks Dave,
>
> So that sounds like a recommendation for .080 or .093? I don't have a
> micrometer but the current windscreen starts to pulsate at a little over
75,
> so it must be .060(?)
>
> There are some fairly sharp curves on my KF2, which is where the cracks
> occurred. I am planning to use the old pieces as templates and cut the new
> with a Dremel with a cut-off wheel. With that I should be able to also
> smooth the edges. I imagine that using the right kind of drill bit to
drill
> the rivet holes is important too, don't want any cracks there. A
> metal-drilling bit?
>
> Bob Brennan - N717GB
> 1991 UK Model 2 ELSA Kitfox
> Rotax 582 with 3 blade prop
> Wrightsville Pa
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of dave
> Sent: 25 August 2008 5:08 pm
> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: Windsceen Lexan
>
>
> Bob,
>
> 060 will work and easy to work with
> it will flex over 75 mph .
> I have .125 and it is harder to work with.
>
> Make sure you smooth the edges well as cracks can propagate from Lexan if
> not smoothed .
>
>
> Dave
>
> --------
> Rotax Dealer, Ontario Canada
> Flying Videos and Kitfox Info
> http://www.cfisher.com/
> Realtime Kitfox movies to separate the internet chatter from the truth
> http://www.youtube.com/profile_videos?user=kitfoxflyer
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 0519#200519
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>===================
>
>
>
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Message 29
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| Subject: | Re: Give me a brake! |
And to think that a few days ago I didn't even know what a "buna plug" was!
Live and learn. And with airplanes possibly "don't learn - don't live"
Do not archive
Bob Brennan - N717GB
1991 UK Model 2 ELSA Kitfox
Rotax 582 with 3 blade prop
Wrightsville Pa
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of dave
Sent: 27 August 2008 6:12 pm
Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: Give me a brake!
Bob, you will likely need black loctite to glue on the buna plug when you
get your matco kit.
Once again -- make sure that both calpiers are free and do slide freely
....... you can get drag and/or less pressure to non sliding caliper. I
had exactly the same issue before.
Dave
--------
Rotax Dealer, Ontario Canada
Flying Videos and Kitfox Info
http://www.cfisher.com/
Realtime Kitfox movies to separate the internet chatter from the truth
http://www.youtube.com/profile_videos?user=kitfoxflyer
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 1012#201012
Message 30
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| Subject: | aerocet 1100 amphibs |
I am almost ready to get my floats wet for the first time. I have them installed
and rigged, now it's time for the w&b, taxi tests, etc, then find an instructor
to teach me what I don't know how.
I have a couple questions that I hope someone can help with.
First, I know that the weight limit to stay in the sport catagory goes up by 110
lbs to 1430 when on floats, but I am not sure about the planes max gross wt.
I have a model 3 that has a max gross of 1050. When on floats, does my max
gross go up to 1160 or so? If so, WHY? What changed to make the airframe able
to withstand the greater weight?
Second, I weighed it today, and the CG came out too far forward. I am going to
re-weigh it tomorrow to make sure that I didn't make a mistake or anything, but
if it comes out the same, what is the best way to get it back into range?
I was thinking about adding weight to the back compartment to move the CG aft.
Thanks
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 1049#201049
Message 31
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| Subject: | Re: aerocet 1100 amphibs |
it is said that the floats will support / fly themselves at about 70 mph. Can
you move the battery back? If you have to put weight in it, I would put a battery
in the tail, or some type of usefull weight. I hate lead with a passion.
--------
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Leonard Perry
Soldotna AK
Avid "C" / Mk IV
582 IVO IFA
Full Lotus 1260
95% complete
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 1059#201059
Message 32
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| Subject: | Re: aerocet 1100 amphibs |
A forward CG empty is not uncommon in a floatplane but should come into range with
the pilot and some fuel. More than likely you'll still be at the forward limit
loaded but as long as you're in the range you should be fine. As to the extra
weight
on floats, I've heard of many occasions where 10% is added to the gross weight
with
the theory the floats will generate enough lift to carry the extra weight. I'm
not
sure you can just change your max gross weight without going through a test phase
which will probably be required from your FSDO.
Kevin Cozik
Series 7
914 Turbo
Czech floats
Lansing MI
On Wed Aug 27 20:49 , 'vetdrem' <vetdrem@hotmail.com> sent:
>
>I am almost ready to get my floats wet for the first time. I have them installed
and rigged, now it's time for the w&b, taxi tests, etc, then find an instructor
to
teach me what I don't know how.
>
>I have a couple questions that I hope someone can help with.
>
>First, I know that the weight limit to stay in the sport catagory goes up by 110
lbs
to 1430 when on floats, but I am not sure about the planes max gross wt. I have
a
model 3 that has a max gross of 1050. When on floats, does my max gross go up
to
1160 or so? If so, WHY? What changed to make the airframe able to withstand the
greater weight?
>
>Second, I weighed it today, and the CG came out too far forward. I am going to
re-
weigh it tomorrow to make sure that I didn't make a mistake or anything, but if
it
comes out the same, what is the best way to get it back into range? I was thinking
about adding weight to the back compartment to move the CG aft.
>
>Thanks
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php\?p 1049#201049
>
>
Message 33
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| Subject: | Re: Windsceen Lexan |
Bob=2C Yes=2C I like the idea of a tinted cabintop. I was going to add the
tinted film to clear plexi but Menards (a large lumber yard chain ) had a s
heet of bronze tinted plexi with a corner broken off that was marked down a
bout 25%. No=2C I used plexi not Lexan. One of the builders at the airport
said he liked plexi better. There are pros and cons for both. I think he sa
id plexi is more petrol resistant and doesn't scratch as easy=2C and can't
be buffed out. I thought Lexan was more scratch resistant. I actually used
a very flexable clear new plexi of some sort for the windshield. I don't kn
ow how it will prove out. It was called J Peg on something on that order. S
omeone on the website was asking about it and I thought it sounded good=2C
so thats what I used. You can even cut it with sheetmetal shears without fr
acturing it. Seems rather soft. We'll see what happens.
Pat Reilly
Mod # 582 Rebuild
Rockford=2C IL
From: matronics@bob.brennan.nameTo: kitfox-list@matronics.comSubject: RE: K
itfox-List: Re: Windsceen LexanDate: Wed=2C 27 Aug 2008 20:13:09 -0400
Pat - I like the idea of smoked lexan (BTW you did mean "lexan" didn't you?
not "plexi"?) on the top. My first flight out and I forgot to where my cap
- serious sunburn on my forehead and "thinning regions". Where did you get
smoked lexan?
Bob Brennan - N717GB1991 UK Model 2 ELSA KitfoxRotax 582 with 3 blade propW
rightsville Pa
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-serv
er@matronics.com] On Behalf Of patrick reillySent: 27 August 2008 6:16 pmTo
: kitfox-list@matronics.comSubject: RE: Kitfox-List: Re: Windsceen Lexan
Bob=2C Yes=2C I used the heat gun to bend or form plexi as well as drilling
. I built a 2 piece windshield / cabin top. The cabin top is smoked and the
windshield clear. They overlap at the crossmember at the top of the windsh
ield and are riveted together. I did form the cabintop down with heat to la
p under the windshield. I believe it is recommended to heat the 1 piece win
dshield after it is bent to relieve the stress at the major bends. Anyway g
et a heat gun some plexi and practice. Pat ReillyMod 3 582 RebuildRockford
=2C IL
From: matronics@bob.brennan.nameTo: kitfox-list@matronics.comSubject: RE: K
itfox-List: Re: Windsceen LexanDate: Tue=2C 26 Aug 2008 20:03:59 -0400
Pat - how about for bending? I would think that would be more important tha
t it be warm (more flexible?) when bent(?)
I know I'm more flexible when I'm bent... =3B-)
Bob Brennan - N717GB1991 UK Model 2 ELSA KitfoxRotax 582 with 3 blade propW
rightsville Pa
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-serv
er@matronics.com] On Behalf Of patrick reillySent: 26 August 2008 7:56 pmTo
: kitfox-list@matronics.comSubject: RE: Kitfox-List: Re: Windsceen Lexan
Bob=2C I think I heated to 120 degrees before drilling. I can't really reme
mber. I used a heat gun=2C as I said=2C and a laser thermometer and practic
ed on a scrap piece first. Do not archive Pat ReillyMod 3 582 RebuildRockfo
rd=2C IL
From: matronics@bob.brennan.nameTo: kitfox-list@matronics.comSubject: RE: K
itfox-List: Re: Windsceen LexanDate: Mon=2C 25 Aug 2008 19:34:06 -0400
Pat=2C
I was thinking that the previous owner hadn't heated the current windscreen
properly=2C or probably not at all=2C which is why I am getting stress cra
cks. In general the recommendation for lexan=2C that I have seen=2C is to n
ot try to work with it at all under 70F. I am thinking the warmer the day t
he better for working with lexan. And warm days in the UK.... well let's ju
st say it's a rarity!
Bob Brennan - N717GB1991 UK Model 2 ELSA KitfoxRotax 582 with 3 blade propW
rightsville Pa
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-serv
er@matronics.com] On Behalf Of patrick reillySent: 25 August 2008 6:40 pmTo
: kitfox-list@matronics.comSubject: RE: Kitfox-List: Re: Windsceen Lexan
Dave=2C You want a dull bit that won't grab. ACS sells a special plexi bit
=2C but I didn't use one. You can heat the material with a heat gun also th
en it is not brittle. I don't remember how hot I got it. I used a laser the
rmometer to test to get right temp in practice and then heated to that temp
before drilling. Worked good for me. Pat ReillyMod 3 582 RebuildRockford
=2C IL> From: matronics@bob.brennan.name> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com> Su
bject: RE: Kitfox-List: Re: Windsceen Lexan> Date: Mon=2C 25 Aug 2008 18:25
b.brennan.name>> > Thanks Dave=2C> > So that sounds like a recommendation f
or .080 or .093? I don't have a> micrometer but the current windscreen star
ts to pulsate at a little over 75=2C> so it must be .060(?)> > There are so
me fairly sharp curves on my KF2=2C which is where the cracks> occurred. I
am planning to use the old pieces as templates and cut the new> with a Drem
el with a cut-off wheel. With that I should be able to also> smooth the edg
es. I imagine that using the right kind of drill bit to drill> the rivet ho
les is important too=2C don't want any cracks there. A> metal-drilling bit?
> > Bob Brennan - N717GB> 1991 UK Model 2 ELSA Kitfox> Rotax 582 with 3 bla
de prop> Wrightsville Pa > > -----Original Message-----> From: owner-kitfox
-list-server@matronics.com> [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]
On Behalf Of dave> Sent: 25 August 2008 5:08 pm> To: kitfox-list@matronics
.com> Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: Windsceen Lexan> > --> Kitfox-List message
posted by: "dave" <dave@cfisher.com>> > Bob=2C > > 060 will work and easy t
o work with> it will flex over 75 mph .> I have .125 and it is harder to wo
rk with. > > Make sure you smooth the edges well as cracks can propagate fr
om Lexan if> not smoothed . > > > Dave> > --------> Rotax Dealer=2C Ontario
Canada> Flying Videos and Kitfox Info> http://www.cfisher.com/> Realtime K
itfox movies to separate the internet chatter from the truth > http://www.y
outube.com/profile_videos?user=kitfoxflyer> > > > > Read this topic onlin
e here:> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 0519#200519> > >
> > > > > > >====================>
> >
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List">http://www.matronhr
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Message 34
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| Subject: | Header tank location |
Kitfoxers, My mod 3 has the header tank located high behind the seats.
The current models have the header tank located low behind the co-pilots
seat. Is there an advantage to the new lower location?
Pat Reilly
Mod 3 582 Rebuild
Rockford, IL
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