Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 07:08 AM - passenger brakes (charles cook)
2. 07:49 AM - Re: passenger brakes (Guy Buchanan)
3. 09:33 AM - Staples vs Stitching (Harry Cieslar)
4. 09:37 AM - Lights (Harry Cieslar)
5. 11:01 AM - Re: Lights (Mnflyer)
6. 11:20 AM - Re: Lights (Rick)
7. 11:26 AM - passenger brakes (charles cook)
8. 11:29 AM - Re: Lights (JetPilot)
9. 12:32 PM - Re: Lights (Lowell Fitt)
10. 03:12 PM - Re: Re: Lights (patrick reilly)
11. 04:20 PM - anchor nuts (bob noffs)
12. 04:24 PM - Re: Lights (Noel Loveys)
13. 04:48 PM - Re: Re: Lights (Lowell Fitt)
14. 05:55 PM - LED lLights (Harry Cieslar)
15. 06:53 PM - Re: Re: Lights (Noel Loveys)
16. 07:02 PM - Re: Re: Lights (Rick Frederick)
17. 08:00 PM - Re: Re: Lights (patrick reilly)
18. 08:05 PM - Re: Re: Lights (patrick reilly)
19. 11:39 PM - Re: Lights (Michel Verheughe)
Message 1
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Subject: | passenger brakes |
I want to add brakes and pedals to passengers side of my fox. Anybody have parts
or suggestions?
Charles
363KF
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: passenger brakes |
At 07:06 AM 9/9/2008, you wrote:
>I want to add brakes and pedals to passengers side of my fox.
>Anybody have parts or suggestions?
>Charles
>363KF
Hi Charles,
First, would you please put your location and aircraft type
/ status in your signature? That way folks can see right off whether
they can help you directly and whether their experience counts. It
also makes our big Kitfox family a little more friendly.
Now as to adding brakes to the passenger's side, it's
usually fairly straight-forward. The rudder bars are usually already
set up for it so all you have to do is buy some cylinders, make some
pedals, connect the cylinders in parallel with the existing units,
and off you go. Come back with what kind of cylinders you have now,
your aircraft type, and location and I'm sure someone will be able to
help with specifics.
Guy Buchanan, Kitfox List Moderator
San Diego, CA
K-IV 1200 / 582-C / Warp / 100% done, thanks mostly to Bob Ducar.
Message 3
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Subject: | Staples vs Stitching |
My Avid Magnum builders manual calls for stappling the poly to the wood
ribs. Has anyone had problems with stapples.vs stitching.
Harry Cieslar Avid Magnum Builder.
Message 4
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Anyone have used auto LD lights for direction and strobes for homebuilt
or any info an cheaper set than certified systems which are several
hundred $ up. Thanks
Harry Cieslar Avid Magnum Builder, Ontario, Canada
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Hi Harry, not sure what you mean by LD lights, but nav lights can sometimes be
gotten on e bay at a more reasonable price, also the Cessna flashing beacon assemblies
sell quite reasonable, for a landing light I use a quartz driving/fog
light on mine.
I also just modified an old pair of grimes nav lights to accept LED bulbs and will
be installing them later nice thing about LED's is they draw very little electrical
current so its nice and easy on the charging system.
--------
GB
MNFlyer
Flying a HKS Kitfox III
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 3419#203419
Message 6
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Go to code 3 and others. You will find all sorts of power units and
strobes, way cheaper.
Rick
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Harry
Cieslar
Sent: 2008-09-09 09:37
Subject: Kitfox-List: Lights
--> <hcieslar@cabletv.on.ca>
Anyone have used auto LD lights for direction and strobes for homebuilt
or any info an cheaper set than certified systems which are several
hundred $ up. Thanks
Harry Cieslar Avid Magnum Builder, Ontario, Canada
Message 7
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Subject: | passenger brakes |
I would like to add brakes to the passenger side of my Kitfox II. My exisit
ng brakes are matco -5.- Does anyone have any pedals or cylinders they wa
nt to sell?
Charles Cook
Model ll
Atlanta=0A=0A=0A
Message 8
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Harry means LED lights, and yes the LED lights made for airplanes are way more
expensive than they need to be. I will also be looking for a better cheaper source
for the LED lights for my Kitfox. They dont have to be aircraft LED's,
an LED is an LED and will last for 50,000 hours or more while consuming only
10 % of the power of a traditional light... As long as I can mount the LED's
to the airplane in a nice way I will be happy.
Rick,
What is Code 3 ???
Mike
--------
"NO FEAR" - If you have no fear you did not go as fast as you could
have !!!
Kolb MK-III Xtra, 912-S
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 3425#203425
Message 9
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Harry,
Kitplanes in the Aeroelectrics column just finished a series on LED nav
lights. It is quite comprensive including a schematic for a regulated power
supply. I am planning on building up a set from his plans. I ordered the
parts and they come to about $50 for a set of three - red, white, green.
The LEDs themselves are LedEngin Hi-Power LE modules and should be mounted
with a heat sink as they get warm.. Two modules are used at each point for
FAA mandated coverage.
For the strobes, I am using a strob module with power supply that was
mentioned on the list:
http://www.creativair.com/genii-white-strobe-light-p-111.html
I also plan on mounting the nav lights internally in the wing tips. The
strobes? I won't know until they come so I can see what they look like.
Lowell
There are definitely options out there.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Harry Cieslar" <hcieslar@cabletv.on.ca>
Sent: Tuesday, September 09, 2008 9:37 AM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Lights
>
> Anyone have used auto LD lights for direction and strobes for homebuilt or
> any info an cheaper set than certified systems which are several hundred $
> up. Thanks
> Harry Cieslar Avid Magnum Builder, Ontario, Canada
>
>
>
Message 10
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Rick=2C Can you keep us informed on LED suppliers as you find them? As you
stayted =2C aircraft LED's are rediculeously expensive.
Do not archive
Pat Reilly
Mod 3 582 Rebuild
Rockford=2CIL> Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: Lights> From: orcabonita@hotmail.c
om> Date: Tue=2C 9 Sep 2008 11:29:08 -0700> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com>
Harry means LED lights=2C and yes the LED lights made for airplanes are wa
y more expensive than they need to be. I will also be looking for a better
cheaper source for the LED lights for my Kitfox. They dont have to be aircr
aft LED's=2C an LED is an LED and will last for 50=2C000 hours or more whil
e consuming only 10 % of the power of a traditional light... As long as I c
an mount the LED's to the airplane in a nice way I will be happy.> > > Rick
=2C> > What is Code 3 ???> > Mike> > --------> "=3BNO FEAR"=3B - If
you have no fear you did not go as fast as you could have !!!> > Kolb MK-I
II Xtra=2C 912-S> > > > > Read this topic online here:> > http://forums.mat
========================> >
>
Message 11
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for what it'sworth..... i got my stash of #3 flathead machine screws and
nuts from mcmaster-carr and they work very slick to mount an anchor nut
instead of a 3/32 rivit. a number 40 drill and a 13/64 drill ground to
an 85 deg tip. i may use this method on some that will get frequent use.
then again squeezing old anchor nuts with vicegrips to get the locking
action back sounds good too.
bob
noffs
Message 12
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You may also try a simple voltage divider circuit.... Most NOT ALL LEDs
will light on around 2V and a couple of milliamps of current.
Convenient
size red and green LEDs can be salvaged from old Christmas lamps... look
for
an old store display that=92s being turfed out.
vd.jpgThis diagram should work for 12V... you may want to play with the
values of the resistors a bit. The calculations I made using the 400/80
combination was just for one LED. Two LEDs will probably be around a
200/40
combination. =BC W resistors should suffice. You can even add a white
LED
for the tail. Current draw should be horrendous.... less than 0.03 Amp
per
light. Continuous burn (not switched) it will flatten your battery in
about
three years. (1- LED)
The two resistors in the circuit produce what is known as a voltage
divider
circuit and should produce close to 2V for the LEDs.
If that=92s too complicated you can always run the LEDs directly off a
replaceable penlight battery without the resistor circuit. Just wire
the
LEDs in parallel. A great place to use all those old half used camera
batteries.
One thing not mentioned about the coloured LEDs is, they only emit a
single
wavelength of light so if you combine the light of a red, green and blue
LEDs you can make a nice cockpit flashlight that will not cause your
pupils
to close down as regular flashlights do.
Sigtaturea
Noel Loveys
Campbellton, NL, Canada
CDN AME intern, PP-Rec
C-FINB, Kitfox III-A
Aerocet 1100 floats
noelloveys@yahoo.ca
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lowell Fitt
Sent: Tuesday, September 09, 2008 4:55 PM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Lights
Harry,
Kitplanes in the Aeroelectrics column just finished a series on LED nav
lights. It is quite comprensive including a schematic for a regulated
power
supply. I am planning on building up a set from his plans. I ordered
the
parts and they come to about $50 for a set of three - red, white, green.
The LEDs themselves are LedEngin Hi-Power LE modules and should be
mounted
with a heat sink as they get warm.. Two modules are used at each point
for
FAA mandated coverage.
For the strobes, I am using a strob module with power supply that was
mentioned on the list:
http://www.creativair.com/genii-white-strobe-light-p-111.html
I also plan on mounting the nav lights internally in the wing tips. The
strobes? I won't know until they come so I can see what they look like.
Lowell
There are definitely options out there.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Harry Cieslar" <hcieslar@cabletv.on.ca>
Sent: Tuesday, September 09, 2008 9:37 AM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Lights
<hcieslar@cabletv.on.ca>
>
> Anyone have used auto LD lights for direction and strobes for
homebuilt or
> any info an cheaper set than certified systems which are several
hundred $
> up. Thanks
> Harry Cieslar Avid Magnum Builder, Ontario, Canada
>
>
>
>
Message 13
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Rick,
"A LED is a LED" is not entirely true unless you are not too interested in
high light output. High intensity LEDS are a pretty new and exciting
development. There are LED products on the market now that weren't
available a year ago. Keep in mind that they are amperage sensitive so
output will vary with voltage shifts as we put the 12 or 14+ volts through
them depending on battery condition or charge voltage - hence the
requirement for a regulated power supply. It's not like buying a couple
of fifty cent LEDs and putting a resister in the circuit to keep from
flrying them, unless all you need are low light output panel indicators.
The Lancair guy, I helped in the build, is in the forefront of LED powered
fluorescent tube replacement technology here. It won't be long before all
interior lighting is LED based and the incandescent bulbs, fluorescent tubes
and twisted bulbs will be in museum displays for our grandkids to look at
and laugh. These units won't be full of the LEDs available at Radio Shack.
Again, go to Kitplanes and read the three articles on this subject ending
with the October issue. The Modules recommended in this article are
available from Mouser for $9 to $11 a pop depending on color. It is
interesting that the current requirement varies with color and the power
supplies are slightly different to provide for that.
Also keep in mind that these are collision avoidance items and light output
is an important consideration.
Lowell
----- Original Message -----
From: "JetPilot" <orcabonita@hotmail.com>
Sent: Tuesday, September 09, 2008 11:29 AM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: Lights
>
> Harry means LED lights, and yes the LED lights made for airplanes are way
> more expensive than they need to be. I will also be looking for a better
> cheaper source for the LED lights for my Kitfox. They dont have to be
> aircraft LED's, an LED is an LED and will last for 50,000 hours or more
> while consuming only 10 % of the power of a traditional light... As long
> as I can mount the LED's to the airplane in a nice way I will be happy.
>
>
> Rick,
>
> What is Code 3 ???
>
> Mike
>
> --------
> "NO FEAR" - If you have no fear you did not go as fast as you
> could have !!!
>
> Kolb MK-III Xtra, 912-S
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 3425#203425
>
>
>
Message 14
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Thanks everyone who replied. Great info. Will need to do some research
and experimenting. I the meantime I will put wiring into the wing so I
can close them.
Harry Cieslar, Avid Magnum Builder, ON, CA
Message 15
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Spot on Lowell!
That's why I recommended getting the LEDs from a scrapped Christmas
displays. LEDs do give off different colours depending on the doping of the
semiconductor and as you well pointed out because of the different doping
the current draw will vary. White and blue are actually sort of fluorescent
lights in their own right as the colour is given off by the fluorescing of
UV light given off by the junction. That makes those LEDs slightly more
expensive. I have found by using white LEDs year round (on my deck) that
after a year or so the white ones degrade and eventually fade out completely
no doubt because of UV light from the sun. I also have red and green LEDs
in my lamp posts at the end of the driveway ( red right return same as
navigation ) they have been lit 24/7 except for power outages for three
years now. I decided to check them the other day and they are the same as
new. Yes they are red and green strings (30) of Christmas indoor/outdoor
lights.
The Christmas lights are usually wired in strings of 30 wired in series so
the voltage drop across each LED is 110/30 = 3.6V... The really beautiful
thing about them is they give off almost no heat so that puts their
efficiency way up through the roof. The other nice thing is they are turned
off for more than 50% of the time. As diodes they only allow forward
current to flow when the threshold voltage is achieved, that only occurs for
less than 50% of the AC cycle.
You make very valid points on the high output LEDs but most of the red and
green units are not of that type... they are however just as bright as most
of the incandescent nav lights. High power lights are generally the lighter
colours, white and blue are examples but as you mentioned new ones are being
designed and built every day.
I noticed the other day that even the traffic lights that are now being
swapped to LED are much brighter when you are facing them but off to the
side it is hard to tell if the light is on or not in open shade.
Noel
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lowell Fitt
Sent: Tuesday, September 09, 2008 9:14 PM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Re: Lights
Rick,
"A LED is a LED" is not entirely true unless you are not too interested in
high light output. High intensity LEDS are a pretty new and exciting
development. There are LED products on the market now that weren't
available a year ago. Keep in mind that they are amperage sensitive so
output will vary with voltage shifts as we put the 12 or 14+ volts through
them depending on battery condition or charge voltage - hence the
requirement for a regulated power supply. It's not like buying a couple
of fifty cent LEDs and putting a resister in the circuit to keep from
flrying them, unless all you need are low light output panel indicators.
The Lancair guy, I helped in the build, is in the forefront of LED powered
fluorescent tube replacement technology here. It won't be long before all
interior lighting is LED based and the incandescent bulbs, fluorescent tubes
and twisted bulbs will be in museum displays for our grandkids to look at
and laugh. These units won't be full of the LEDs available at Radio Shack.
Again, go to Kitplanes and read the three articles on this subject ending
with the October issue. The Modules recommended in this article are
available from Mouser for $9 to $11 a pop depending on color. It is
interesting that the current requirement varies with color and the power
supplies are slightly different to provide for that.
Also keep in mind that these are collision avoidance items and light output
is an important consideration.
Lowell
----- Original Message -----
From: "JetPilot" <orcabonita@hotmail.com>
Sent: Tuesday, September 09, 2008 11:29 AM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: Lights
>
> Harry means LED lights, and yes the LED lights made for airplanes are way
> more expensive than they need to be. I will also be looking for a better
> cheaper source for the LED lights for my Kitfox. They dont have to be
> aircraft LED's, an LED is an LED and will last for 50,000 hours or more
> while consuming only 10 % of the power of a traditional light... As long
> as I can mount the LED's to the airplane in a nice way I will be happy.
>
>
> Rick,
>
> What is Code 3 ???
>
> Mike
>
> --------
> "NO FEAR" - If you have no fear you did not go as fast as you
> could have !!!
>
> Kolb MK-III Xtra, 912-S
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 3425#203425
>
>
>
Message 16
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|
This may have been mentioned before, or may not even apply...
About 2 years ago I worked with a project that required high intensity
lighting, for this application we used a philips device called 'luxeon
emitters'.
If anyone is interested here is the website:
http://www.lumileds.com/products/line.cfm?lineId=18
Rick, Kitfox IV / 912ul / 50%
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt@sbcglobal.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 09, 2008 7:44 PM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Re: Lights
>
> Rick,
>
> "A LED is a LED" is not entirely true unless you are not too interested in
> high light output. High intensity LEDS are a pretty new and exciting
> development. There are LED products on the market now that weren't
> available a year ago. Keep in mind that they are amperage sensitive so
> output will vary with voltage shifts as we put the 12 or 14+ volts
> through them depending on battery condition or charge voltage - hence the
> requirement for a regulated power supply. It's not like buying a couple
> of fifty cent LEDs and putting a resister in the circuit to keep from
> flrying them, unless all you need are low light output panel indicators.
> The Lancair guy, I helped in the build, is in the forefront of LED powered
> fluorescent tube replacement technology here. It won't be long before all
> interior lighting is LED based and the incandescent bulbs, fluorescent
> tubes and twisted bulbs will be in museum displays for our grandkids to
> look at and laugh. These units won't be full of the LEDs available at
> Radio Shack. Again, go to Kitplanes and read the three articles on this
> subject ending with the October issue. The Modules recommended in this
> article are available from Mouser for $9 to $11 a pop depending on color.
> It is interesting that the current requirement varies with color and the
> power supplies are slightly different to provide for that.
>
> Also keep in mind that these are collision avoidance items and light
> output is an important consideration.
>
> Lowell
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "JetPilot" <orcabonita@hotmail.com>
> To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, September 09, 2008 11:29 AM
> Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: Lights
>
>
>>
>> Harry means LED lights, and yes the LED lights made for airplanes are way
>> more expensive than they need to be. I will also be looking for a better
>> cheaper source for the LED lights for my Kitfox. They dont have to be
>> aircraft LED's, an LED is an LED and will last for 50,000 hours or more
>> while consuming only 10 % of the power of a traditional light... As
>> long as I can mount the LED's to the airplane in a nice way I will be
>> happy.
>>
>>
>> Rick,
>>
>> What is Code 3 ???
>>
>> Mike
>>
>> --------
>> "NO FEAR" - If you have no fear you did not go as fast as you
>> could have !!!
>>
>> Kolb MK-III Xtra, 912-S
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 3425#203425
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 17
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Noel=2C Wow! after sorting thru reams of gas and alcohol minusha=2C I get a
n excellent definition of LED differences. Thanks Noel. Keep up the good wo
rk. I will look at the LED Christmas lights this year.
Do not archive
Pat Reilly
Mod 3 582 Rebuild
Rockford=2C IL> From: noelloveys@yahoo.ca> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com> S
ubject: RE: Kitfox-List: Re: Lights> Date: Tue=2C 9 Sep 2008 23:22:58 -0230
> Spot on Lowell! > > That's why I recommended getting the LEDs from a scr
apped Christmas> displays. LEDs do give off different colours depending on
the doping of the> semiconductor and as you well pointed out because of the
different doping> the current draw will vary. White and blue are actually
sort of fluorescent> lights in their own right as the colour is given off b
y the fluorescing of> UV light given off by the junction. That makes those
LEDs slightly more> expensive. I have found by using white LEDs year round
(on my deck) that> after a year or so the white ones degrade and eventually
fade out completely> no doubt because of UV light from the sun. I also hav
e red and green LEDs> in my lamp posts at the end of the driveway ( red rig
ht return same as> navigation ) they have been lit 24/7 except for power ou
tages for three> years now. I decided to check them the other day and they
are the same as> new. Yes they are red and green strings (30) of Christmas
indoor/outdoor> lights.> > The Christmas lights are usually wired in string
s of 30 wired in series so> the voltage drop across each LED is 110/30 =
3.6V... The really beautiful> thing about them is they give off almost no h
eat so that puts their> efficiency way up through the roof. The other nice
thing is they are turned> off for more than 50% of the time. As diodes they
only allow forward> current to flow when the threshold voltage is achieved
=2C that only occurs for> less than 50% of the AC cycle.> > You make very v
alid points on the high output LEDs but most of the red and> green units ar
e not of that type... they are however just as bright as most> of the incan
descent nav lights. High power lights are generally the lighter> colours=2C
white and blue are examples but as you mentioned new ones are being> desig
ned and built every day. > > I noticed the other day that even the traffic
lights that are now being> swapped to LED are much brighter when you are fa
cing them but off to the> side it is hard to tell if the light is on or not
in open shade.> > Noel> > -----Original Message-----> From: owner-kitfox-l
ist-server@matronics.com> [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] O
n Behalf Of Lowell Fitt> Sent: Tuesday=2C September 09=2C 2008 9:14 PM> To:
kitfox-list@matronics.com> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Re: Lights> > --> Kit
fox-List message posted by: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt@sbcglobal.net>> > Rick=2C
> > "A LED is a LED" is not entirely true unless you are not too interested
in > high light output. High intensity LEDS are a pretty new and exciting
> development. There are LED products on the market now that weren't > avai
lable a year ago. Keep in mind that they are amperage sensitive so > output
will vary with voltage shifts as we put the 12 or 14+ volts through > them
depending on battery condition or charge voltage - hence the > requirement
for a regulated power supply. It's not like buying a couple > of fifty cen
t LEDs and putting a resister in the circuit to keep from > flrying them=2C
unless all you need are low light output panel indicators. > The Lancair g
uy=2C I helped in the build=2C is in the forefront of LED powered > fluores
cent tube replacement technology here. It won't be long before all > interi
or lighting is LED based and the incandescent bulbs=2C fluorescent tubes> >
and twisted bulbs will be in museum displays for our grandkids to look at
> and laugh. These units won't be full of the LEDs available at Radio Shack
. > Again=2C go to Kitplanes and read the three articles on this subject en
ding > with the October issue. The Modules recommended in this article are
> available from Mouser for $9 to $11 a pop depending on color. It is > int
eresting that the current requirement varies with color and the power > sup
plies are slightly different to provide for that.> > Also keep in mind that
these are collision avoidance items and light output > is an important con
sideration.> > Lowell> > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "JetPilot" <o
rcabonita@hotmail.com>> To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>> Sent: Tuesday=2C S
eptember 09=2C 2008 11:29 AM> Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: Lights> > > > --> K
itfox-List message posted by: "JetPilot" <orcabonita@hotmail.com>> >> > Har
ry means LED lights=2C and yes the LED lights made for airplanes are way >
> more expensive than they need to be. I will also be looking for a better
> > cheaper source for the LED lights for my Kitfox. They dont have to be >
> aircraft LED's=2C an LED is an LED and will last for 50=2C000 hours or m
ore > > while consuming only 10 % of the power of a traditional light... As
long> > > as I can mount the LED's to the airplane in a nice way I will be
happy.> >> >> > Rick=2C> >> > What is Code 3 ???> >> > Mike> >> > --------
> > "=3BNO FEAR"=3B - If you have no fear you did not go as fast as
you > > could have !!!> >> > Kolb MK-III Xtra=2C 912-S> >> >> >> >> > Read
this topic online here:> >> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p
> > >
Message 18
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Lowell=2C Thanks for the info. I'm tired of meaningless alcohol gas trivia
and I need to learn about LED's.
Do not archive
Pat Reilly
Mod 3 582 Rebuild
Rockford=2C IL> From: lcfitt@sbcglobal.net> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com>
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Re: Lights> Date: Tue=2C 9 Sep 2008 16:44:28 -070
>> > Rick=2C> > "A LED is a LED" is not entirely true unless you are not to
o interested in > high light output. High intensity LEDS are a pretty new a
nd exciting > development. There are LED products on the market now that we
ren't > available a year ago. Keep in mind that they are amperage sensitive
so > output will vary with voltage shifts as we put the 12 or 14+ volts th
rough > them depending on battery condition or charge voltage - hence the >
requirement for a regulated power supply. It's not like buying a couple >
of fifty cent LEDs and putting a resister in the circuit to keep from > flr
ying them=2C unless all you need are low light output panel indicators. > T
he Lancair guy=2C I helped in the build=2C is in the forefront of LED power
ed > fluorescent tube replacement technology here. It won't be long before
all > interior lighting is LED based and the incandescent bulbs=2C fluoresc
ent tubes > and twisted bulbs will be in museum displays for our grandkids
to look at > and laugh. These units won't be full of the LEDs available at
Radio Shack. > Again=2C go to Kitplanes and read the three articles on this
subject ending > with the October issue. The Modules recommended in this a
rticle are > available from Mouser for $9 to $11 a pop depending on color.
It is > interesting that the current requirement varies with color and the
power > supplies are slightly different to provide for that.> > Also keep i
n mind that these are collision avoidance items and light output > is an im
portant consideration.> > Lowell> > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "J
etPilot" <orcabonita@hotmail.com>> To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>> Sent: T
uesday=2C September 09=2C 2008 11:29 AM> Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: Lights>
>> >> > Harry means LED lights=2C and yes the LED lights made for airplanes
are way > > more expensive than they need to be. I will also be looking fo
r a better > > cheaper source for the LED lights for my Kitfox. They dont h
ave to be > > aircraft LED's=2C an LED is an LED and will last for 50=2C000
hours or more > > while consuming only 10 % of the power of a traditional
light... As long > > as I can mount the LED's to the airplane in a nice way
I will be happy.> >> >> > Rick=2C> >> > What is Code 3 ???> >> > Mike> >>
> --------> > "=3BNO FEAR"=3B - If you have no fear you did not go
as fast as you > > could have !!!> >> > Kolb MK-III Xtra=2C 912-S> >> >> >>
>> > Read this topic online here:> >> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewto
==> > >
Message 19
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> From: Noel Loveys [noelloveys@yahoo.ca]
> I also have red and green LEDs
> in my lamp posts at the end of the driveway ( red right return same as
> navigation )
Ah, but then you use the IALA system B, my friend! If I ever drive to your home,
I would be confused, accustomed to the European system A that has red on red
and green on green when sailing TOWARD a harbour! :-)
Cheers,
Michel Verheughe
Norway
Kitfox 3 - Jabiru 2200 .... flying as PAX
Do not archive
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