Kitfox-List Digest Archive

Sat 09/20/08


Total Messages Posted: 29



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 12:43 AM - Kitfox with HKS (Heinz Lang)
     2. 12:43 AM - HKS Engines (Heinz Lang)
     3. 05:15 AM - Re: HKS Engines (aerobatics@aol.com)
     4. 05:17 AM - Re: aerocet amphibs (vetdrem)
     5. 05:40 AM - Re: HKS Engines (Mnflyer)
     6. 06:31 AM - Flaperon (Keithc)
     7. 06:44 AM - Re: Almost ready to fly (Tom Jones)
     8. 07:02 AM - Re: Re: Give me a brake! (Bob Brennan)
     9. 07:41 AM - Re: Flaperon (Lowell Fitt)
    10. 10:05 AM - Re: Re: aerocet amphibs (Paul A. Franz, P.E.)
    11. 10:36 AM - Re: Re: aerocet amphibs (Paul A. Franz, P.E.)
    12. 11:02 AM - Re: Re: HKS Engines (mscotter@comcast.net)
    13. 01:13 PM - Re: Flaperon (Keithc)
    14. 02:06 PM - Gas Cap for panel fuel tank. (rudderdancer)
    15. 02:32 PM - Re: Gas Cap for panel fuel tank. (akflyer)
    16. 02:39 PM - Re: Gas Cap for panel fuel tank. (Dee Young)
    17. 03:02 PM - Re: Kitfox with HKS (David Jones)
    18. 03:18 PM - Re: Re: aerocet amphibs (Noel Loveys)
    19. 05:27 PM - Re: Gas Cap for panel fuel tank. (akflyer)
    20. 05:29 PM - Re: Gas Cap for panel fuel tank. (Tom Jones)
    21. 05:35 PM - Re: Kitfox 4 flaperon rigging (Tom Jones)
    22. 05:46 PM - Re: Kitfox 4 flaperon rigging (akflyer)
    23. 06:32 PM - Re: Gas Cap for panel fuel tank. (rudderdancer)
    24. 06:34 PM - Re: Almost ready to fly (patrick reilly)
    25. 06:59 PM - Re: HKS Engines (Mnflyer)
    26. 07:02 PM - Smooth 8.00X20.00" tire (Dee Young)
    27. 09:06 PM - Re: Re: Almost ready to fly (Cecil Stokesberry)
    28. 09:28 PM - Re: Looking for Kitfox Webpages !!! (Francisco Drovetta)
    29. 10:12 PM - Re: Re: Almost ready to fly (Paul A. Franz, P.E.)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 12:43:58 AM PST US
    From: "Heinz Lang" <hlang@bluewin.ch>
    Subject: Kitfox with HKS
    Anybody has experience with a HKS engine in a Kitfox, maybe Kitfox IV? Where to get the installation hw, e.g. a engine mount with the load prove? Heinz with HB-YFS


    Message 2


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    Time: 12:43:58 AM PST US
    From: "Heinz Lang" <hlang@bluewin.ch>
    Subject: HKS Engines
    I am also interestet to know about possibilities to install a HKS engine in a Kitfox IV and about the activities of Green Sky Adventures.. If anybody knows. Heinz Lang, Switzerland Hlang"a" bluewin.ch


    Message 3


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    Time: 05:15:42 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: HKS Engines
    From: aerobatics@aol.com
    I think the HKS is a wonderful well made engine with great fuel economy and would love to put one n my kitfox 2 but it just doesn't have the power of a 582. One of the great features of the kitfox is short field and climb and 582 shines brightly. Now the 582 is thirstier and the HKS is very easy on gas.... If the HKS had more power I would... there is a plane called an Oddessy made in Ca I got a flight in one by the owner and he had put a HKS on and while he loved it, on balance he compared the power to a 502 with great fuel economy. My strip is 750 feet and due to that its not an option if it was 1000 feet maybe... but with full fuel 2 people hot day no wind...that extra power becomes very meaninful to me... it comes down to your mission... its all good!


    Message 4


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    Time: 05:17:07 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: aerocet amphibs
    From: "vetdrem" <vetdrem@hotmail.com>
    I'm holding the stick full aft the whole time, but it still isn't enough to keep the float tips from submerging. I agree that the static balance is close, so I think that the next move is to try to increase the angle of incidence. Thanks for the response. Louie Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 5252#205252


    Message 5


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    Time: 05:40:41 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: HKS Engines
    From: "Mnflyer" <gbsb2002@yahoo.com>
    Hi, I have a HKS in my Kitfox III and have flown it for 291 hrs and I can assure you that it has 60 hp and my plane fly's as well with the HKS as it did with the 582 the same power. If the HKS in the a for mentioned plane only performs like a 503 its because the guy has the wrong prop on the engine. My Kitfox is off the ground in 375 ft and climbs out at 700 fpm and the cruise increased by 7 mph over the 582 the fuel burn is 3 gph and the operating cost per hour is exactly half of the 582. I flew my Kitfox 297 hr with the 582 and have records of both engines and the HKS wins hands down in all categories, fuel consumption, simple maintenance, overhaul cost, TBO (soon to be 1000 hrs) cost per hour to operate, ignition system is quite as is the electrical so there is little noise in the radio it starts easier than the 582. -------- GB MNFlyer Flying a HKS Kitfox III Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 5259#205259


    Message 6


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    Time: 06:31:31 AM PST US
    Subject: Flaperon
    From: "Keithc" <keith@intev.ca>
    Would some one know what the I.D and O.D of the series 4 1200 flaperon spar would be Thanks Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 5265#205265


    Message 7


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    Time: 06:44:24 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Almost ready to fly
    From: "Tom Jones" <nahsikhs@elltel.net>
    > I am beginning to break in the engine - it started nicely but very rough from idle to about 4000 rpm then it smooths > out - I have not run greater than 4000 rpm yet. When the engine stops it shakes violently in the motor mount. > So the question is - will the break-in procedure cure this problem? - Is the prop out of balance (even thou smooth at > 4000 rpm)? - Is the prop pitch out of wack (different pitch on each blade) ? Any other ideas as to this problem.? Cecil, the best advice I can give for setting up a two stroke rotax for the first time is: First check all carb jets, needles, air screw and idle adjustments to be sure they are set to factory recommended specifications for the engine, altitude and air temperature. Next adjust the prop to a recommended starting pitch. Take time and care to be sure all blades are pitched equal and tracking is within limits. Tie the tail to a tree, start the engine and let it warm up at 3000 rpm or less for a good 10 minutes. It should be running smooth at this point. If not there is something else causing the vibration. When warm give it a short full throttle run to check RPM. You want 6200-6300. If not, repitch the prop and do it again. Monitor the EGT to check that it is less than 1200 during the run up. -------- Tom Jones Classic IV 503 Rotax, 72 inch Two blade Warp Ellensburg, WA Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 5267#205267


    Message 8


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    Time: 07:02:15 AM PST US
    From: "Bob Brennan" <matronics@bob.brennan.name>
    Subject: Re: Give me a brake!
    Follow up to conclude this thread... I received 2 master cylinder rebuild kits from Matco for $8.88 each, found and bought a tiny tube of Black Max adhesive on the net for about $15 including shipping, and scored some aviation brake fluid at a local FBO through shear luck. I disassembled both cylinders to find the ineffective left brake had a Buna-N plug that looked like a donut, hole in the center, and not attached to the piston shaft. The right (working) brake had an unattached plug with nearly-a-hole worn in the middle. Lessons learned from the rebuild: 1. Don't used the recommended "small drill bit" to punch out the roll pins, it only enlarges the end. One pin on mine came out with a hammer and pliers, the other I had to cut both sides with a Dremel grinding wheel and then use the other pin as a punch in a vise. 2. The "Buna" material supplied is enough to rebuild about 10 cylinders, so must be first cut to size, glued and left for 24 hours, and then shaved down to working size. I found the recommended 220 grit sandpaper was ineffective so used the Dremel to get it close and a fine metal file to adjust. 3. Don't take the 1/16" +/- thousandths recommendation seriously, I did, and did the whole roll-pin and snap-ring assembly/disassembly too many times to remember. According to final experience and George at Matco - the piston should wobble freely on the shaft, and most importantly you should be able to blow air into the outlet (past the plug) or it won't work. 4. I ordered new calliper bleeder nipples rather than risk breaking old ones - replaced and you *must* fill the system with fluid from the calliper bleeders until it leaks out of the fill screw in the cylinder. Until Matco set me straight on the size of the Buna plug I wasted a *lot* of time and fluid trying to pump into the cylinders. Biggest lesson learned = send the whole cylinder to Matco - they will rebuild and test it for the absurdly reasonable price of $15 + parts. Hope this helps someone in future. Bob Brennan - N717GB 1991 UK Model 2 ELSA Kitfox Rotax 582 with 3 blade prop Wrightsville Pa


    Message 9


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    Time: 07:41:31 AM PST US
    From: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt@sbcglobal.net>
    Subject: Re: Flaperon
    Keith, On mine the OD is .876 and the ID is about .8. The caliper locked at .797, but I find that IDs are more difficult to measure. Lowell ----- Original Message ----- From: "Keithc" <keith@intev.ca> Sent: Saturday, September 20, 2008 6:30 AM Subject: Kitfox-List: Flaperon > > Would some one know what the I.D and O.D of the series 4 1200 flaperon > spar would be > Thanks > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 5265#205265 > > >


    Message 10


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    Time: 10:05:58 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: aerocet amphibs
    From: "Paul A. Franz, P.E." <paul@eucleides.com>
    On Sat, September 20, 2008 5:16 am, vetdrem wrote: > > I'm holding the stick full aft the whole time, but it still isn't enough to keep the > float tips from submerging. > > I agree that the static balance is close, so I think that the next move is to try to > increase the angle of incidence. > > Thanks for the response. > > Louie I'm not sure what is correct but I'd have reservations about increasing the the angle between the float water line and the apparent attitude since this might have a big effect on drag in flight. I think I'd move the plane c.g. back on the floats a little first. You certainly don't want those floats to dig in on landing, you'd risk flipping on your back. Normally while taxiing on the water, you should need only a slight back pressure on the stick. Increasing the attitude of the plane on floats will effect the take-off run length too. I know you need to consider the weight and balance between allowable limits too. My guess is that with the plane loaded to gross weight right in the middle of the cg limits, the front of the floats should be a little higher. Definitely should not be submerged when taxiing. If it were me, I'd try to get hold of Al Pike who is currently an instructor at Merritt Island Air Service 900 Airport Rd Merritt Island, FL 32952 (321) 453-2222 or Ron Lueck, owner of CompAir (321) 452-7168, (321) 453-6641 CompAir is a successful business that started by building floats and float kits. Al Pike has built quite a number of float kits and really has experience flying them. If at all possible, he'd be the one to talk to. Might be tough to get hold of either because they are so busy. But asking for setup advice for balance and attitude might be a quick answer. You can get a pretty good idea of how this works and setup instructions here. <http://www.seminolerc.com/float_flying_basics.html> Keep in mind when reading dimensions, in some cases they are for model airplanes. (i.e. wing chord of 12 inches). -- Paul A. Franz, P.E. PAF Consulting Engineers Office 425.440.9505 Cell 425.241.1618


    Message 11


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    Time: 10:36:22 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: aerocet amphibs
    From: "Paul A. Franz, P.E." <paul@eucleides.com>
    On Fri, September 19, 2008 3:18 pm, vetdrem wrote: > > That is exactly where I think my problem is, but I don't know how to check it. > > I talked to the guy that I bought the floats from, and he said that he didn't have > that problem when they were on his plane, so I don't know where to go from here. > > The rigging came with the floats and were designed for the kitfox, and the previous > owner said that he didn't modify them. I think that I am going to add a 1" alum. > block under the front float struts to increase the angle a few degrees, and hope for > the best. I thought about replacing those struts, but that would require replacing > the cross bracing, also, so I think that just lifting the struts will do the same > thing with out going through a bunch of trouble. It is also easy to put it back if it > doesn't work. > > If you have any info on the angle of incidence, I sure would like to see it. Louie, The starting configuration is to have the balance point at the step and the top of the floats parallel with the plane of the stabilizer. As I quoted in a previous post, here's how it works and how to proceed with fine tuning. <http://www.seminolerc.com/float_flying_basics.html> I'm very interested in your trials. I am going to be going through this myself. -- Paul A. Franz, P.E. PAF Consulting Engineers Office 425.440.9505 Cell 425.241.1618


    Message 12


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    Time: 11:02:05 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: HKS Engines
    From: mscotter@comcast.net
    Gb, if you don't mind me asking, what's the empty weight on your Fox, what kind of prop, and what settings? Mark Scott Elkton, MD. USA ------Original Message------ From: Mnflyer Sender: Kitfox list ReplyTo: kitfox-list@matronics.com Sent: Sep 20, 2008 8:40 AM Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: HKS Engines Hi, I have a HKS in my Kitfox III and have flown it for 291 hrs and I can assure you that it has 60 hp and my plane fly's as well with the HKS as it did with the 582 the same power. If the HKS in the a for mentioned plane only performs like a 503 its because the guy has the wrong prop on the engine. My Kitfox is off the ground in 375 ft and climbs out at 700 fpm and the cruise increased by 7 mph over the 582 the fuel burn is 3 gph and the operating cost per hour is exactly half of the 582. I flew my Kitfox 297 hr with the 582 and have records of both engines and the HKS wins hands down in all categories, fuel consumption, simple maintenance, overhaul cost, TBO (soon to be 1000 hrs) cost per hour to operate, ignition system is quite as is the electrical so there is little noise in the radio it starts easier than the 582. -------- GB MNFlyer Flying a HKS Kitfox III Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 5259#205259 Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T


    Message 13


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    Time: 01:13:50 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Flaperon
    From: "Keithc" <keith@intev.ca>
    thanks Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 5301#205301


    Message 14


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    Time: 02:06:09 PM PST US
    Subject: Gas Cap for panel fuel tank.
    From: "rudderdancer" <jhenryhall@mac.com>
    Can anyone tell me what kind of cap I can use on my Model II's main fuel tank located behind the instrument panel. I lost it while trailering my kitfox today. I tried searching, but haven't found what I need. The diameter of the the threaded portion, is 2.25 in. or 5.5 cm. Thanks. -------- J. Henry Hall Kitfox II, 582, Tundra Tires, rusty pilot. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 5307#205307


    Message 15


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    Time: 02:32:47 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Gas Cap for panel fuel tank.
    From: "akflyer" <akflyer_2000@yahoo.com>
    it is the same threads as a plastic 6 gallon (or any portable size) marine fuel tank. We have been using one for 2 yrs on my brothers model II. Make sure to get one with the screw in vent. -------- DO NOT ARCHIVE Leonard Perry Soldotna AK Avid &quot;C&quot; / Mk IV 582 IVO IFA Full Lotus 1260 95% complete Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 5310#205310


    Message 16


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    Time: 02:39:07 PM PST US
    From: "Dee Young" <henrysfork1@msn.com>
    Subject: Re: Gas Cap for panel fuel tank.
    Henry, John and Debra should be able to help you out. Dee Young Model 11 N345DY Do not archive ----- Original Message ----- From: rudderdancer<mailto:jhenryhall@mac.com> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com<mailto:kitfox-list@matronics.com> Sent: Saturday, September 20, 2008 3:05 PM Subject: Kitfox-List: Gas Cap for panel fuel tank. <jhenryhall@mac.com<mailto:jhenryhall@mac.com>> Can anyone tell me what kind of cap I can use on my Model II's main fuel tank located behind the instrument panel. I lost it while trailering my kitfox today. I tried searching, but haven't found what I need. The diameter of the the threaded portion, is 2.25 in. or 5.5 cm. Thanks. -------- J. Henry Hall Kitfox II, 582, Tundra Tires, rusty pilot. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 5307#205307<http://forums .matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 5307#205307> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List<http://www.matronics.com/N avigator?Kitfox-List> http://www.matronics.com/contribution<http://www.matronics.com/contributi on>


    Message 17


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    Time: 03:02:09 PM PST US
    From: "David Jones" <planecrazy2020@gmail.com>
    Subject: Re: Kitfox with HKS
    Heinz, I recently bought a Kitfox model III that has an HKS engine with 23.5 hours on it. I haven't flown it yet since I'm going to replace some of the instruments, but was told that Lost Hill Aviation in MO had installed the engine in 2006. They are a HKS dealer and have engine mounts. Their address is: Lost Hill Aviation Inc 32258 Airport Rd, Painton, MO 63772 573- 733-9043 Good Luck, David On Sat, Sep 20, 2008 at 2:42 AM, Heinz Lang <hlang@bluewin.ch> wrote: > Anybody has experience with a HKS engine in a Kitfox, maybe Kitfox IV? > Where to get the installation hw, e.g. a engine mount with the load prove? > > Heinz with HB-YFS > > * > > * > >


    Message 18


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    Time: 03:18:24 PM PST US
    From: "Noel Loveys" <noelloveys@yahoo.ca>
    Subject: Re: aerocet amphibs
    Before messing with the float struts why not try putting a bit of weight in the tail of the floats for taxi testing. If it is inside the balance envelope you may even want to try a couple of circuits. The3 only time I've seen a plane float level was when it was totally empty... most of the time they float slightly nose high or tail low. I flew with my father for close to ten years and to be honest never once did I see the tails of the floats above the water while taxiing...Then again our "normal" takeoff weight was close to 100 lb. over weight :-) (C - 170B ) The only time we approached MTOW was when we were just about out of gas. I worked on a Champ once that would do nothing but plough water until a ten lb. canvas bag was put in the aft cargo bin. Getting on step was near impossible with the pilot alone but it could easily handle up to the listed gross once a bit of weight was put in the back. Ten lb. of clothing or fishing gear in the back and she flew like a homesick angel. Noel -----Original Message----- From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of vetdrem Sent: Saturday, September 20, 2008 9:47 AM Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: aerocet amphibs I'm holding the stick full aft the whole time, but it still isn't enough to keep the float tips from submerging. I agree that the static balance is close, so I think that the next move is to try to increase the angle of incidence. Thanks for the response. Louie Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 5252#205252


    Message 19


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    Time: 05:27:17 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Gas Cap for panel fuel tank.
    From: "akflyer" <akflyer_2000@yahoo.com>
    The tempo part number is 060100. You should be able to find it at any marine store, or at a walmart or hardware store that carries plastic boat gas tanks. I am sure Kitfox has the caps, I am just trying to help you find a local solution so you can fly tomorrow if you wish.. I know get kinda impatient waiting for the mail. -------- DO NOT ARCHIVE Leonard Perry Soldotna AK Avid &quot;C&quot; / Mk IV 582 IVO IFA Full Lotus 1260 95% complete Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 5330#205330


    Message 20


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    Time: 05:29:48 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Gas Cap for panel fuel tank.
    From: "Tom Jones" <nahsikhs@elltel.net>
    If you are in hurry and have a Ski- Doo. My Skid cap fits. -------- Tom Jones Classic IV 503 Rotax, 72 inch Two blade Warp Ellensburg, WA Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 5331#205331


    Message 21


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    Time: 05:35:45 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Kitfox 4 flaperon rigging
    From: "Tom Jones" <nahsikhs@elltel.net>
    Jim, the flaperon rigging instructions in the manual are in the wing section, pages W-E-1 through W-E-8. Did you find them? -------- Tom Jones Classic IV 503 Rotax, 72 inch Two blade Warp Ellensburg, WA Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 5333#205333


    Message 22


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    Time: 05:46:56 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Kitfox 4 flaperon rigging
    From: "akflyer" <akflyer_2000@yahoo.com>
    I just rigged a set on a model I and had troubles chasing it from one flaperon to the other... I ended up clamping a piece of aluminum angle to the flaperon just outboard of the strut attach point, then taped a paint stir stick to under the leading edge (it was the perfect width for what the book called out. With BOTH flaperons set for level it was a simple task to adjust the two linkage rods on the mixer with the mixer leveled, then center the stick with the heim joint. Took me about 10 minutes to have it all buttoned up after I immobilized both flaperons at 0 degrees. -------- DO NOT ARCHIVE Leonard Perry Soldotna AK Avid &quot;C&quot; / Mk IV 582 IVO IFA Full Lotus 1260 95% complete Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 5334#205334


    Message 23


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    Time: 06:32:18 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Gas Cap for panel fuel tank.
    From: "rudderdancer" <jhenryhall@mac.com>
    Leonard, Tom and Dee, Thanks for getting back to me. I'll try my local sources for your suggestions. Hopefully I won't have to mail order one. Thanks again. Jack -------- J. Henry Hall Kitfox II, 582, Tundra Tires, rusty pilot. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 5339#205339


    Message 24


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    Time: 06:34:52 PM PST US
    From: patrick reilly <patreilly43@hotmail.com>
    Subject: Almost ready to fly
    Marco=2C Installed and plumbed the header tank today with the low fuel warn ing system you recommended from ACS. I bought the light also=2C but should have just used a Radio Shack LED. Pat do not archive Kitfox-List: Almost ready to flyTo: kitfox-list@matronics.com Cecil=2C The 582 is notorious for a fierce vibration at idle speeds. There's no cure except adding a prop clutch. It engages at about 2500 rpm=2C after which v ibration shouldn't be an issue. But if you're still vibrating at 4K rpm=2C you might have another problem. Are all the plugs firing? Have you checked those other variables you mentioned: balance=2C pitch and tracking? What pr op are you swinging? Marco Menezes N99KX Kitfox 2 582-90 C-Box --- On Fri=2C 9/19/08=2C Cecil Stokesberry <stokesc@wildblue.net> wrote: From: Cecil Stokesberry <stokesc@wildblue.net>Subject: Kitfox-List: Almost ready to flyTo: Kitfox-list@matronics.comDate: Friday=2C September 19=2C 20 08=2C 5:39 PM After many years of on and off work my Kitfox Md 4 582 1050 ser # 1451is re ady for inspection and paper work. But one last problem and as I have been reading this list for some time I a m confident there is an answser there. I am beginning to break in the engine - it started nicely but very rough fr om idle to about 4000 rpm then it smooths out - I have not run greater than 4000 rpm yet. When the engine stops it s hakes violently in the motor mount. So the question is - will the break-in procedure cure this problem? - Is th e prop out of balance (even thou smooth at 4000 rpm)? - Is the prop pitch out of wack (different pitch on each blade) ? Any other ideas as to this problem.? Thank You for any help you can give me. Cecil Stokesberry in North Idaho - N161CP 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D


    Message 25


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    Time: 06:59:24 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: HKS Engines
    From: "Mnflyer" <gbsb2002@yahoo.com>
    Hi Mark, the empty wt of my Kitfox is 526 lbs, have a 68" 2 blade Warp Drive Prop (square tip). 8 degrees at the tip using a Warp Drive Prop Protractor, on take off and climbout the tach reads 5950 to 6000 rpms generally cruise at 5650 rpms. -------- GB MNFlyer Flying a HKS Kitfox III Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 5342#205342


    Message 26


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    Time: 07:02:15 PM PST US
    From: "Dee Young" <henrysfork1@msn.com>
    Subject: Smooth 8.00X20.00" tire
    I mentioned some time back that I had found a source for new new tundra tires for the Kitfox. What I did was go to the local tire store and order the proper size of ATV tires. Have the tire store send them to the retread shop and have them shaved. Don't tell them they will be used on an aircraft or your SOL. I received a new set this week and the tires seem to be made much better than those that came stock in my model II. Anyway this worked for me and it may for you too. Cost wasn't that bad either, about $80.00. Dee Young Model II N345DY Do Not Archive


    Message 27


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    Time: 09:06:10 PM PST US
    From: "Cecil Stokesberry" <stokesc@wildblue.net>
    Subject: Re: Almost ready to fly
    Thank you all for your input..it has been very useful to me...this is my first experience with a 2-stroke. I have the 3-blade GSC and just pitched it and torqued it to 100 in lbs. And it tracks nicely. The higher RPM the smoother the engine runs. Which makes me think the prop is ok. I have .5 hours breaking in the engine. As it warms up it smooths out. During this time I have noticed that the brakes do not hold at appx 5000 rpm. Tying to a tree is good advice. Ran at 5000 rpm (for 5 min after 10 min at 3200) than quickly ran up to 6500 rpm which seemed to be max and back to 3000. It seems to have great power and sounds good. EGT at 1100. Water temp 170. Outside temp was 80 degrees. Front cyl runs hotter than rear. The engine is now very smooth at or above 3200 rpm. When I shut the engine off it vibrates considerably. Is there a preferred method of shutting down - ign or throttle first ? or ? If the oil injection fails, how long will the engine run before quiting? What symptoms will there be ? Thanks again ! Waiting for DAR Cecil - N161CP On Sat, Sep 20, 2008 at 6:44 AM, Tom Jones <nahsikhs@elltel.net> wrote: > > > > I am beginning to break in the engine - it started nicely but very rough > from idle to about 4000 rpm then it smooths > > out - I have not run greater than 4000 rpm yet. When the engine stops it > shakes violently in the motor mount. > > So the question is - will the break-in procedure cure this problem? - Is > the prop out of balance (even thou smooth at > > 4000 rpm)? - Is the prop pitch out of wack (different pitch on each > blade) ? Any other ideas as to this problem.? > > > Cecil, the best advice I can give for setting up a two stroke rotax for the > first time is: > > First check all carb jets, needles, air screw and idle adjustments to be > sure they are set to factory recommended specifications for the engine, > altitude and air temperature. > > Next adjust the prop to a recommended starting pitch. Take time and care > to be sure all blades are pitched equal and tracking is within limits. > > Tie the tail to a tree, start the engine and let it warm up at 3000 rpm or > less for a good 10 minutes. It should be running smooth at this point. If > not there is something else causing the vibration. When warm give it a > short full throttle run to check RPM. You want 6200-6300. If not, repitch > the prop and do it again. Monitor the EGT to check that it is less than > 1200 during the run up. > > -------- > Tom Jones > Classic IV > 503 Rotax, 72 inch Two blade Warp > Ellensburg, WA > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 5267#205267 > >


    Message 28


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    Time: 09:28:57 PM PST US
    From: "Francisco Drovetta" <dcubj3@terra.com.br>
    Subject: Re: Looking for Kitfox Webpages !!!
    Hi !! You can see more photos of my Kitfox-Aguia construction progress.. Almost ready to Fly!! Lot of photos!!! http://www.dcubj3.com.br/v1/Galeria/01Fuselagem/index.htm Sorry, only in portuguese Francisco Drovetta Building Kitfox IV "brazilian version" with Cont O-200 S=E3o Paulo, SP, Brazil dcubj3@terra.com.br www.dcubj3.com.br ----- Original Message ----- From: "JetPilot" <orcabonita@hotmail.com> Sent: Monday, September 15, 2008 9:40 PM Subject: Kitfox-List: Looking for Kitfox Webpages !!! > > I am looking for Kitfox websites ! In the LED thread, there was a guy in Colorado that has a great web page up with hints, tips, and suggestions for building a Kitfox. > > http://www.itsys3.com/kitfox/index.shtml > > Does anyone know of any other web pages for Kitfoxes ? > PS Some web pages with pictures and videos would be cool also :) > > Mike > > -------- > &quot;NO FEAR&quot; - If you have no fear you did not go as fast as you could have !!! > > Kolb MK-III Xtra, 912-S > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 4478#204478 > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------- Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com 15/9/2008 18:49


    Message 29


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    Time: 10:12:26 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Almost ready to fly
    From: "Paul A. Franz, P.E." <paul@eucleides.com>
    On Sat, September 20, 2008 9:05 pm, Cecil Stokesberry wrote: > Outside temp was 80 degrees. Front cyl runs hotter than rear. That's a sign that the mixture is leaner on the front cylinder. If the mixture is a little too lean that can lead to seizing. I'd do some checking. > ....quickly ran up to 6500 rpm which seemed to be max and back to 3000. IIRC, the rpm should be a little lower than that when tied to a tree. I believe you want the max rpm capability at best rate of climb speed so static (runup condition) should be lower and therefore you might set your prop for a bigger bite. Check your engine operation manual or talk to Rotax for recommended optimal rpm. If the prop doesn't have enough pitch, you won't be able to develop max hp without over speeding the engine. Never run that engine too lean. Biggest cause of two stroke early failures is seizing from too lean a mixture. Richer mixtures provide substantial cooling. -- Paul A. Franz, P.E. PAF Consulting Engineers Office 425.440.9505 Cell 425.241.1618




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