Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:50 AM - Re: rivets in flaperon brackets (Tom Jones)
2. 07:01 AM - Re: Re: rivets in flaperon brackets (Jim_and_Lucy Chuk)
3. 07:34 AM - Re: rivets in flaperon brackets (Tom Jones)
4. 08:02 AM - Re: Re: rivets in flaperon brackets (Dave)
5. 09:11 AM - Re: Re: Tundra Tires (kerrjohna@comcast.net)
6. 11:07 AM - Re: Tundra Tires (Mnflyer)
7. 12:33 PM - starters (Bill Malpass)
8. 12:50 PM - Re: starters (fox5flyer)
9. 01:12 PM - Re: starters (Bob Brennan)
10. 01:42 PM - Re: starters (Bill Malpass)
11. 02:08 PM - Re: starters (Bob Brennan)
12. 02:30 PM - Re: starters (Bill Malpass)
13. 03:44 PM - Re: starters (gary.algate@sandvik.com)
14. 04:37 PM - Flaperons, Trim Settings, & CG (darinh)
15. 05:46 PM - Re: starters (Bill Malpass)
16. 07:30 PM - Lexan Turtledeck (jeff puls)
17. 07:56 PM - Re: Lexan Turtledeck (CDE2fly@aol.com)
18. 09:07 PM - Re: starters (Paul A. Franz, P.E.)
19. 09:54 PM - Warp Drive Angle (Ted & Bonnie Jacques)
20. 11:02 PM - Re: Warp Drive Angle (gary.algate@sandvik.com)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: rivets in flaperon brackets |
[quote="occom"]I've been mounting the brackets and I've found two things that
I need to check. First, I show the rivets 95007 as 1/4 by 1/8 Alu. But I appear
to have an identical bag labelled 95012. I cannot locate the original little
chart I made up of Number vs size/material on the rivets.
The second issue surrounds actually installing the rivets at the very back of
the bracket. I don't appear to have enough room for the opposing rivets, they
hit each other. The holes line up and I'm almost tempted to use a 1/8 in bolt
all the way through from top to bottom. Has anyone else hit this issue?
> [b]
Jim, the bag of 95012 rivets is for your wing tip flanges.
The spacing of the flaperon bracket rivet holes should be different between top
and bottom brackets so that the rivets are staggered and don't interfere.
Just thinking out loud, there are plenty of rivets at each hinge...16...and the
design of the system ties the 4 brackets together when the hinge is bolted up.
It seems a little modification like a 1/8th bolt wouldn't reduce the integrity
or strength. Also, you could just drill another hole 1/4 inch foreward in
one bracket.
Don't forget that the fabric goes on the wing before final attachment of the flaperon
brackets. I notice in the picture you posted a couple days ago there was
no covering yet.
--------
Tom Jones
Classic IV
503 Rotax, 72 inch Two blade Warp
Ellensburg, WA
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 5475#205475
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: rivets in flaperon brackets |
Hi Tom=2C thanks again for your quick resonces to the questions that are co
mming up. That last question wasn't mine though. The author of it is list
ed as occom. Don't know who he is. On my plane=2C I got the flaperon rigg
ing done and now I will do the turtle deck and associated parts with it whi
le the wings are on. After that I will uncleco the brackets from the wings
and they will just about be ready to cover. Thanks again for all your hel
p. I just thought of another question. What are the 3 tabs for on the bot
tom of the fusaloge. Two are on the crosstube that lines up with the strut
attachments and one is on the crosstube just in front of that. I looked i
n the manual again last evening and find no mention of them. Add on baggag
e compartment maybe???? Thanks again. Jim Chuk Kitfox 4 building. Mn
> Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: rivets in flaperon brackets> From: nahsikhs@ell
tel.net> Date: Mon=2C 22 Sep 2008 05:49:59 -0700> To: kitfox-list@matronics
>> > [quote="occom"]I've been mounting the brackets and I've found two th
ings that I need to check. First=2C I show the rivets 95007 as 1/4 by 1/8 A
lu. But I appear to have an identical bag labelled 95012. I cannot locate t
he original little chart I made up of Number vs size/material on the rivets
. > > The second issue surrounds actually installing the rivets at the very
back of the bracket. I don't appear to have enough room for the opposing r
ivets=2C they hit each other. The holes line up and I'm almost tempted to u
se a 1/8 in bolt all the way through from top to bottom. Has anyone else hi
t this issue? > > > [b]> > > Jim=2C the bag of 95012 rivets is for your win
g tip flanges.> > The spacing of the flaperon bracket rivet holes should be
different between top and bottom brackets so that the rivets are staggered
and don't interfere.> > Just thinking out loud=2C there are plenty of rive
ts at each hinge...16...and the design of the system ties the 4 brackets to
gether when the hinge is bolted up. It seems a little modification like a 1
/8th bolt wouldn't reduce the integrity or strength. Also=2C you could just
drill another hole 1/4 inch foreward in one bracket.> > Don't forget that
the fabric goes on the wing before final attachment of the flaperon bracket
s. I notice in the picture you posted a couple days ago there was no coveri
ng yet.> > --------> Tom Jones> Classic IV> 503 Rotax=2C 72 inch Two blade
Warp> Ellensburg=2C WA> > > > > Read this topic online here:> > http://foru
==> > >
_________________________________________________________________
Want to do more with Windows Live? Learn =9310 hidden secrets=94 from Jamie
.
http://windowslive.com/connect/post/jamiethomson.spaces.live.com-Blog-cns!5
50F681DAD532637!5295.entry?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_domore_092008
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: rivets in flaperon brackets |
> Hi Tom C thanks again for your quick resonces to the questions that are comming
up. That last question wasn't mine though.
Oops, I'll edit my earlier post so I don't confuse him about his name and the wing
covering.
Yes the three tabs on the bottom of the fuselage are to attach a cargo pod. There
are two more tabs (horizontal) an inch or so in front of each end of the control
column. I drilled the floor boards to match those while building so I
can find them if needed in the future.
--------
Tom Jones
Classic IV
503 Rotax, 72 inch Two blade Warp
Ellensburg, WA
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 5495#205495
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: rivets in flaperon brackets |
Thanks, Both wings are covered and currently UV coated with EkoFill. I will
be painting when I have the brackets on.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tom Jones" <nahsikhs@elltel.net>
Sent: Monday, September 22, 2008 9:49 AM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: rivets in flaperon brackets
>
> [quote="occom"]I've been mounting the brackets and I've found two things
> that I need to check. First, I show the rivets 95007 as 1/4 by 1/8 Alu.
> But I appear to have an identical bag labelled 95012. I cannot locate the
> original little chart I made up of Number vs size/material on the rivets.
>
> The second issue surrounds actually installing the rivets at the very
> back of the bracket. I don't appear to have enough room for the opposing
> rivets, they hit each other. The holes line up and I'm almost tempted to
> use a 1/8 in bolt all the way through from top to bottom. Has anyone else
> hit this issue?
>
>> [b]
>
>
> Jim, the bag of 95012 rivets is for your wing tip flanges.
>
> The spacing of the flaperon bracket rivet holes should be different
> between top and bottom brackets so that the rivets are staggered and don't
> interfere.
>
> Just thinking out loud, there are plenty of rivets at each
> hinge...16...and the design of the system ties the 4 brackets together
> when the hinge is bolted up. It seems a little modification like a 1/8th
> bolt wouldn't reduce the integrity or strength. Also, you could just drill
> another hole 1/4 inch foreward in one bracket.
>
> Don't forget that the fabric goes on the wing before final attachment of
> the flaperon brackets. I notice in the picture you posted a couple days
> ago there was no covering yet.
>
> --------
> Tom Jones
> Classic IV
> 503 Rotax, 72 inch Two blade Warp
> Ellensburg, WA
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 5475#205475
>
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Tundra Tires |
most (all) tires take a set when left sitting for a time even the $150 tires on
the RV9. By the time they have taxied to the run up area and the departure the
lope is out of them.
John Kerr
-------------- Original message --------------
From: steve shinabery <shinco@bright.net>
>
> Mnflyer wrote:
> >
> > Yea, but are the blame things round? The ones I have on my plane are NOT and
> besides I prefer the 20X7X8 tire size.
> >
> > --------
> > GB
> > MNFlyer
> > Flying a HKS Kitfox III
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 5423#205423
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> >
> >
> > Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
> >
> >
> They are round and they go round and round.I have no problem with
> them..Do you have square tires?did you get them from Dayton Tire??if you
> did..they stand behind them...all you have to do is call them and they
> will stand behind there tires..Steve Shinabery N554KF
>
>
>
>
<html><body>
<DIV>most (all) tires take a set when left sitting for a time even the $150 tires
on the RV9. By the time they have taxied to the run up area and the departure
the lope is out of them.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>John Kerr</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #1010ff 2px solid">-------------- Original message -------------- <BR>From: steve shinabery <shinco@bright.net> <BR><BR>> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: steve shinabery <SHINCO@BRIGHT.NET><BR>> <BR>> Mnflyer wrote: <BR>> > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Mnflyer" <GBSB2002@YAHOO.COM><BR>> > <BR>> > Yea, but are the blame things round? The ones I have on my plane are NOT and <BR>> besides I prefer the 20X7X8 tire size. <BR>> > <BR>> > -------- <BR>> > GB <BR>> > MNFlyer <BR>> > Flying a HKS Kitfox III <BR>> > <BR>> > <BR>> > <BR>> > <BR>> > Read this topic online here: <BR>> > <BR>> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 5423#205423 <BR>> > <BR>> > <BR>> > <BR>> > <BR>> > <BR>> > <BR>> > <BR>> > <BR>> > <BR>> > <BR>> &
gt; --
R>>
<pre><b><font size=2 color="#000000" face="courier new,courier">
</b></font></pre></body></html>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Tundra Tires |
[quote]most (all) tires take a set when left sitting for a time even the $150 tires
on the RV9. By the time they have taxied to the run up area and the departure
the lope is out of them
Sure wish the ones I have would abide by that but alas when I look out my door
when off the end of the runway they just loping along suppose I should be happy
they stay with the plane. Maybe by the time there old and weather checked they'll
be round??
--------
GB
MNFlyer
Flying a HKS Kitfox III
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 5532#205532
Message 7
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I have a kitfox model III , 582 with the starter mounted on the rear of
the engine. The starter extends inward of the cabin and the fabricated
cover consist of sheet aluminum riveted together to create the cover.
All of this fabrication is standard straight out of the construction
manual, so this should be a common scenario. I am having starter
problems as the bendix gear will not completely engage but rather will
touch and make that common grizzly grinding sound. I have cleaned the
bendix and it rotates freely but still wont engage. I am trying to get
the starter out but the indications are that the engine needs to be slid
forward and/or removed to adequately service the starter. Any
suggestions to ease my pain on this project?
Message 8
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Remove the engine, remove the starter, then take it apart. More than
likely you quickly see what the problem is. Some of the older 582s had
flywheel gears that would come apart (break at the bolt holes).
Deke Morisse
Mikado Michigan
S5/Subaru/CAP 397+ TT
"The aim of an argument or discussion should not be victory, but
progress."
- Joseph Joubert
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill Malpass
To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, September 22, 2008 3:32 PM
Subject: Kitfox-List: starters
I have a kitfox model III , 582 with the starter mounted on the rear
of the engine. The starter extends inward of the cabin and the
fabricated cover consist of sheet aluminum riveted together to create
the cover. All of this fabrication is standard straight out of the
construction manual, so this should be a common scenario. I am having
starter problems as the bendix gear will not completely engage but
rather will touch and make that common grizzly grinding sound. I have
cleaned the bendix and it rotates freely but still wont engage. I am
trying to get the starter out but the indications are that the engine
needs to be slid forward and/or removed to adequately service the
starter. Any suggestions to ease my pain on this project?
Message 9
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For starters (pun intended<g>) - are you sure you have a good fully charged
battery? Low volts can do that too, and are far easier to fix.
Bob Brennan - N717GB
1991 UK Model 2 ELSA Kitfox
Rotax 582 with 3 blade prop
Wrightsville Pa
_____
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Malpass
Sent: 22 September 2008 3:33 pm
Subject: Kitfox-List: starters
I have a kitfox model III , 582 with the starter mounted on the rear of the
engine. The starter extends inward of the cabin and the fabricated cover
consist of sheet aluminum riveted together to create the cover. All of this
fabrication is standard straight out of the construction manual, so this
should be a common scenario. I am having starter problems as the bendix
gear will not completely engage but rather will touch and make that common
grizzly grinding sound. I have cleaned the bendix and it rotates freely but
still wont engage. I am trying to get the starter out but the indications
are that the engine needs to be slid forward and/or removed to adequately
service the starter. Any suggestions to ease my pain on this project?
Message 10
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battery is reading 12.8 volts which is lower than what it should be (at
about 13.8 v). Do you think this is the trouble?
----- Original Message -----
From: Bob Brennan
To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, September 22, 2008 4:11 PM
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: starters
For starters (pun intended<g>) - are you sure you have a good fully
charged battery? Low volts can do that too, and are far easier to fix.
Bob Brennan - N717GB
1991 UK Model 2 ELSA Kitfox
Rotax 582 with 3 blade prop
Wrightsville Pa
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill
Malpass
Sent: 22 September 2008 3:33 pm
To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
Subject: Kitfox-List: starters
I have a kitfox model III , 582 with the starter mounted on the rear
of the engine. The starter extends inward of the cabin and the
fabricated cover consist of sheet aluminum riveted together to create
the cover. All of this fabrication is standard straight out of the
construction manual, so this should be a common scenario. I am having
starter problems as the bendix gear will not completely engage but
rather will touch and make that common grizzly grinding sound. I have
cleaned the bendix and it rotates freely but still wont engage. I am
trying to get the starter out but the indications are that the engine
needs to be slid forward and/or removed to adequately service the
starter. Any suggestions to ease my pain on this project?
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List">http://www.matron
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
Message 11
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I had a similar problem with an old battery, about 14 years old. How old is
yours? If not new it might be worth replacing just for sh*ts and grins,
especially if you think it is reading low. And what you are describing is
not a starter or gear problem, it's a solenoid or battery or alternator
problem.
Bob Brennan - N717GB
1991 UK Model 2 ELSA Kitfox
Rotax 582 with 3 blade prop
Wrightsville Pa
_____
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Malpass
Sent: 22 September 2008 4:42 pm
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: starters
battery is reading 12.8 volts which is lower than what it should be (at
about 13.8 v). Do you think this is the trouble?
----- Original Message -----
From: Bob Brennan <mailto:matronics@bob.brennan.name>
Sent: Monday, September 22, 2008 4:11 PM
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: starters
For starters (pun intended<g>) - are you sure you have a good fully charged
battery? Low volts can do that too, and are far easier to fix.
Bob Brennan - N717GB
1991 UK Model 2 ELSA Kitfox
Rotax 582 with 3 blade prop
Wrightsville Pa
_____
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Malpass
Sent: 22 September 2008 3:33 pm
Subject: Kitfox-List: starters
I have a kitfox model III , 582 with the starter mounted on the rear of the
engine. The starter extends inward of the cabin and the fabricated cover
consist of sheet aluminum riveted together to create the cover. All of this
fabrication is standard straight out of the construction manual, so this
should be a common scenario. I am having starter problems as the bendix
gear will not completely engage but rather will touch and make that common
grizzly grinding sound. I have cleaned the bendix and it rotates freely but
still wont engage. I am trying to get the starter out but the indications
are that the engine needs to be slid forward and/or removed to adequately
service the starter. Any suggestions to ease my pain on this project?
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List">http://www.matronhref
"http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List">http://www.matronhref
"http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
Message 12
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Thanks- I just found the problem..............One of the 2 broken
studs. It allows the starter to skew slightly off center when starting.
Just shows that anything can go wrong.
Thanks for the help....................
----- Original Message -----
From: Bob Brennan
To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, September 22, 2008 5:07 PM
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: starters
I had a similar problem with an old battery, about 14 years old. How
old is yours? If not new it might be worth replacing just for sh*ts and
grins, especially if you think it is reading low. And what you are
describing is not a starter or gear problem, it's a solenoid or battery
or alternator problem.
Bob Brennan - N717GB
1991 UK Model 2 ELSA Kitfox
Rotax 582 with 3 blade prop
Wrightsville Pa
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill
Malpass
Sent: 22 September 2008 4:42 pm
To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: starters
battery is reading 12.8 volts which is lower than what it should be
(at about 13.8 v). Do you think this is the trouble?
----- Original Message -----
From: Bob Brennan
To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, September 22, 2008 4:11 PM
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: starters
For starters (pun intended<g>) - are you sure you have a good fully
charged battery? Low volts can do that too, and are far easier to fix.
Bob Brennan - N717GB
1991 UK Model 2 ELSA Kitfox
Rotax 582 with 3 blade prop
Wrightsville Pa
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
---
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill
Malpass
Sent: 22 September 2008 3:33 pm
To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
Subject: Kitfox-List: starters
I have a kitfox model III , 582 with the starter mounted on the rear
of the engine. The starter extends inward of the cabin and the
fabricated cover consist of sheet aluminum riveted together to create
the cover. All of this fabrication is standard straight out of the
construction manual, so this should be a common scenario. I am having
starter problems as the bendix gear will not completely engage but
rather will touch and make that common grizzly grinding sound. I have
cleaned the bendix and it rotates freely but still wont engage. I am
trying to get the starter out but the indications are that the engine
needs to be slid forward and/or removed to adequately service the
starter. Any suggestions to ease my pain on this project?
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List">http://www.matron
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List">http://www.matron
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List">http://www.matron
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
Message 13
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Bill
I had the same set up - when you say the bendix rotates freely does it
also move forward and engage the ring gear fully when you do it by hand -
As I recall there is a small spring in the Bendix assembly - also the
starter is mounted on a stack of rubbers and if the mounting bolts are
over-torqued it will jam the Bendix assy.
Unfortunately you may have to remove the engine - it's a bit of a pain but
once you get into it, it only takes about 45 mins
best regards
Gary
Gary Algate
Classic 4 Jab 2200
Office Phone: +61 8 8276 7655
This e-mail is confidential and it is intended only for the addressees.
Any review, dissemination, distribution, or copying of this message by
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telephone or e-mail and delete the message from your system. The sender
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this message which may arise as a result of the e-mail transmission.
"Bill Malpass" <malpass-architect@comcast.net>
Sent by: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
23/09/2008 05:14 AM
Please respond to
kitfox-list@matronics.com
To
<kitfox-list@matronics.com>
cc
Subject
Kitfox-List: starters
I have a kitfox model III , 582 with the starter mounted on the rear of
the engine. The starter extends inward of the cabin and the fabricated
cover consist of sheet aluminum riveted together to create the cover. All
of this fabrication is standard straight out of the construction manual,
so this should be a common scenario. I am having starter problems as the
bendix gear will not completely engage but rather will touch and make that
common grizzly grinding sound. I have cleaned the bendix and it rotates
freely but still wont engage. I am trying to get the starter out but the
indications are that the engine needs to be slid forward and/or removed to
adequately service the starter. Any suggestions to ease my pain on this
project?
Message 14
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| Subject: | Flaperons, Trim Settings, & CG |
Here is the deal. My Series 7, when flying solo with half tanks has a CG of about
10" (forward CG limit is 9" and aft is 16"). This is a bit on the nose heavy
side...this is due to my engine and prop choice which together add about 30
lbs over the standard 912s and Warp Drive prop.
I really would like to use the flaperons during landing to lower my stall speed
but when I deploy them the nose pitches forward quite a bit. So much that I
can only flare to about a level attitude and this is with only the first notch
of flaperons. I know you can put the trim assist on that reduces the back pressure
on the stick but this doesn't help with the amount of flare available.
Here is the question: At what CG will the plane NOT experience a drastic pitch
forward when flaperons are deployed (12", 14", 15", ect.)? Has anyone done
this test? Any comments on this? Or techniques that work for you?
I have heard that sealing the gap on the elevator will give better elevator authority
as will adding VGs to the bottom side of the stab. I have not done this
yet but will definitely seal the gaps....don't know about the VGs.
--------
Darin Hawkes
Series 7 (Phase 1 - Flight Testing)
914 Turbo
Kaysville, Utah
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 5590#205590
Message 15
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Thanks Gary,
I just found the problem..............One of the 2 broken studs. It
allows the starter to skew slightly off center when starting. Just shows
that anything can go wrong.
Thanks for your input
----- Original Message -----
From: gary.algate@sandvik.com
To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, September 22, 2008 6:43 PM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: starters
Bill
I had the same set up - when you say the bendix rotates freely does it
also move forward and engage the ring gear fully when you do it by hand
- As I recall there is a small spring in the Bendix assembly - also the
starter is mounted on a stack of rubbers and if the mounting bolts are
over-torqued it will jam the Bendix assy.
Unfortunately you may have to remove the engine - it's a bit of a pain
but once you get into it, it only takes about 45 mins
best regards
Gary
Gary Algate
Classic 4 Jab 2200
Office Phone: +61 8 8276 7655
This e-mail is confidential and it is intended only for the
addressees. Any review, dissemination, distribution, or copying of this
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system. The sender does not accept liability for any errors or omissions
in the contents of this message which may arise as a result of the
e-mail transmission.
"Bill Malpass" <malpass-architect@comcast.net>
Sent by: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
23/09/2008 05:14 AM
Please respond to
kitfox-list@matronics.com
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Subject Kitfox-List: starters
I have a kitfox model III , 582 with the starter mounted on the rear
of the engine. The starter extends inward of the cabin and the
fabricated cover consist of sheet aluminum riveted together to create
the cover. All of this fabrication is standard straight out of the
construction manual, so this should be a common scenario. I am having
starter problems as the bendix gear will not completely engage but
rather will touch and make that common grizzly grinding sound. I have
cleaned the bendix and it rotates freely but still wont engage. I am
trying to get the starter out but the indications are that the engine
needs to be slid forward and/or removed to adequately service the
starter. Any suggestions to ease my pain on this project?
-
-
-Matt Dralle, List Admin.
Message 16
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| Subject: | Lexan Turtledeck |
I'm trimming my Lexan turtledeck that my wife just bought me for my
birthday. Did you guys put the aluminum flanges (wings) on the sides or
did you install it without them? Thanks, Jeff Classic IV KTZR
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Lexan Turtledeck |
Installed mine (Model 7) without.
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Message 18
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On Mon, September 22, 2008 1:42 pm, Bill Malpass wrote:
> battery is reading 12.8 volts which is lower than what it should be (at about
13.8 v).
> Do you think this is the trouble?
Not too likely but charge it up and test first.
--
Paul A. Franz, P.E.
PAF Consulting Engineers
Office 425.440.9505
Cell 425.241.1618
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| Subject: | Warp Drive Angle |
Hi All,
This past week, I took N13SE, Model V, Vixen up after engine replacement,
(EA81 Turbo) up for the first time. Took more than 1000 feet to get off the
runway and would only climb out to 200 feet above the runway. Was able to
make a gentle turn and return to the runway. I have gone thru everything
and have come up with the prop being at a too low angle, causes the engine
to over rev and would not get enough speed to just keep it in the air. The
Ellison throttle body needed some adjustment to make it run more lean (5000
Ft elevation). The prop was set at 18 degrees where the AP put it when he
did the inspection. The question is: For those of you that have the Subie
Kitfoxes with Warp drive ground adjustable props, What do you have yours set
at for general all around performance?
Thanks to everyone.
Ted Jacques
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Warp Drive Angle |
I think my first question would be what static RPM were you getting on the
prop - to have the performance drop you experienced I would expect that
you would be over the red line on your engine at WOT on the ground.
regards
Gary
Gary Algate
Classic 4 Jabiru 2200
Office Phone: +61 8 8276 7655
This e-mail is confidential and it is intended only for the addressees.
Any review, dissemination, distribution, or copying of this message by
persons or entities other than the intended recipient is prohibited. If
you have received this e-mail in error, kindly notify us immediately by
telephone or e-mail and delete the message from your system. The sender
does not accept liability for any errors or omissions in the contents of
this message which may arise as a result of the e-mail transmission.
"Ted & Bonnie Jacques" <earnestj@frontiernet.net>
Sent by: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
23/09/2008 02:36 PM
Please respond to
kitfox-list@matronics.com
To
<Kitfox-List@matronics.com>
cc
Subject
Kitfox-List: Warp Drive Angle
Hi All,
This past week, I took N13SE, Model V, Vixen up after engine replacement,
(EA81 Turbo) up for the first time. Took more than 1000 feet to get off
the runway and would only climb out to 200 feet above the runway. Was
able to make a gentle turn and return to the runway. I have gone thru
everything and have come up with the prop being at a too low angle, causes
the engine to over rev and would not get enough speed to just keep it in
the air. The Ellison throttle body needed some adjustment to make it run
more lean (5000 Ft elevation). The prop was set at 18 degrees where the
AP put it when he did the inspection. The question is: For those of you
that have the Subie Kitfoxes with Warp drive ground adjustable props, What
do you have yours set at for general all around performance?
Thanks to everyone.
Ted Jacques
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