Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:07 AM - Re: Plexiglass Scratch Repair... (Michel Verheughe)
2. 04:25 AM - Re: Plexiglass Scratch Repair... (fox5flyer)
3. 07:15 AM - Re: Re: A Fun Flight (Lynn Matteson)
4. 07:54 AM - Re: A Fun Flight (Tom Jones)
5. 08:16 AM - Re: Re: A Fun Flight (Lynn Matteson)
6. 08:44 AM - Re: Re: A Fun Flight (Bob Brennan)
7. 04:54 PM - Re: 912S Fuel (Roger Lee)
8. 06:57 PM - Re: Re: 912S Fuel (Clint Bazzill)
9. 10:15 PM - Re: 912S Fuel (JetPilot)
Message 1
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| Subject: | RE: Plexiglass Scratch Repair... |
> From: Matt Dralle [dralle@matronics.com]
> So, the bottom line is, if you've got scuffs or mild scratches in your Plexiglass
buy
> this repair kit. It works!
Well ... in 1975-76, I worked with a two-seater mini submarine at the bottom of
the North Sea for the offshore oil industry. We has a big Plexiglas dome that
often got scratches from various things we bumped into as we were working.
As part of the maintenance crew, I had to removed them almost daily. Something
we did first with fine sand paper then we finished the job to a nice smooth surface
with ... tooth paste! No special brand; any one has enough rubbing compound
to do the job.
Don't try it on Lexan, though; I did and it doesn't work.
Cheers,
Michel Verheughe
Norway
Kitfox 3 - Jabiru 2200 ... grounded
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Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Plexiglass Scratch Repair... |
Good one Matt. I always wondered if that stuff really worked. My LP
windows on my S5 (doors and windshield) are over 8 years old and are getting
to the point they could use a good polish.
Thanks for sharing,
Deke Morisse
Mikado Michigan
S5/Subaru/CAP 402+ TT
"The aim of an argument or discussion should not be victory, but progress."
- Joseph Joubert
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt Dralle" <dralle@matronics.com>
Sent: Friday, November 21, 2008 12:23 AM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Plexiglass Scratch Repair...
>
> Dear Listers,
>
> During the fitting of the Plexiglass canopy on my RV-8, I managed to put
> some pretty disheartening scratches in the windscreen section. You can
> see from the pictures that they looked pretty bad. A call to Van's
> revealed that a replacement canopy would be $640 + $250 shipping to
> California! Ack.
>
> So what to do... A bit of surfing and I found this "Scratch Off"
> windshield repair kit for $35 on the Aircraft Spruce web site:
>
> http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cspages/scratchoff.php
>
> Frankly, it just seemed too good to be true. Nothing for $35 could be
> that "magic" I thought, but what did I have to lose at this point....
>
> Well, the kit arrived yesterday and I decided to give it a try tonight.
> In a word: WOW! In about 2 hours the windscreen looked as good as new -
> no kidding - AS GOOD AS NEW! The pictures really don't do the repair
> justice. It looks better in person.
>
> There are basically two sponges in the kit with four decreasingly porous
> pastes. You just put some of the first paste on the sponge and buff it in
> with a drill at 1200 RPM or less. Then you wash everything down good
> including the sponge and windshield with warm water. Then you use the
> next finer paste and repeat the process. Etc, etc, until you've used the
> 4th paste that is kind of like car wax.
>
> Frankly, the scratches were gone after the first application of paste - I
> started at #2 based on the instructions and the "observed severity" of the
> scratch depth.
>
> So, the bottom line is, if you've got scuffs or mild scratches in your
> Plexiglass buy this repair kit. It works!
>
> Matt Dralle
> RV-8 #82880
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: A Fun Flight |
This is comparing apples with icicles, but just for kicks I shut my
newly rebuilt engine (I mention this because it was still tight from
the rebuild) off at a good altitude, and it wouldn't stop the prop,
so I pointed the plane up until it did stop. Then I pointed it down
to see if the wind would crank it over...it didn't, and I was not
about to point it any more down or for very much longer, so I engaged
the starter for the restart. Now this is a direct-drive engine, so
the geared engines will take even more effort from the wind to get
them to turn over. So we're comparing a stiff direct drive with a
broken in geared drive, so there's no comparison, just food for thought.
Lynn Matteson
Kitfox IV Speedster, taildragger
Jabiru 2200, 591hrs
Sensenich 62x46
flying again after rebuild, and new Electroair direct-fire ignition
system
do not archive
On Nov 20, 2008, at 12:09 PM, Guy Buchanan wrote:
>
> You are anyway. With the 3:1 gearing and the wimpy Warp drive
> blades you'd have to loose all compression to turn the engine with
> the prop. I think there are several in the list who have shut down
> in flight and discovered this.
>
> Guy Buchanan
> San Diego, CA
> K-IV 1200 / 582-C / Warp / 100% done, thanks mostly to Bob Ducar.
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: A Fun Flight |
At 45 mph on the trailer my prop rotates slowly. It stops for a few seconds while
the compression is evidently overcome then rotates and stops again for a few
seconds on the next compression etc. 503 Rotax 3:1 gear box, 72 inch warp
drive 2 blade prop. I tie a rope to it to prevent the rotation.
I know not may 503's on a kitfox, not enough power.
--------
Tom Jones
Classic IV
503 Rotax, 72 inch Two blade Warp
Ellensburg, WA
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=215544#215544
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: A Fun Flight |
You might consider getting new piston rings, Tom....just kidding. : )
Lynn Matteson
Kitfox IV Speedster, taildragger
Jabiru 2200, 591hrs
Sensenich 62x46
flying again after rebuild, and new Electroair direct-fire ignition
system
do not archive
On Nov 21, 2008, at 10:54 AM, Tom Jones wrote:
>
> At 45 mph on the trailer my prop rotates slowly. It stops for a
> few seconds while the compression is evidently overcome then
> rotates and stops again for a few seconds on the next compression
> etc. 503 Rotax 3:1 gear box, 72 inch warp drive 2 blade prop. I
> tie a rope to it to prevent the rotation.
>
> I know not may 503's on a kitfox, not enough power.
>
> --------
> Tom Jones
> Classic IV
> 503 Rotax, 72 inch Two blade Warp
> Ellensburg, WA
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=215544#215544
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: A Fun Flight |
I have the same thing happen when I trailer my KF2. The only problem for me
is that the clearance on my barn door [erstwhile hanger] isn't enough if one
blade is up, so I have to do a pre-hanger check lest I need to explain to my
insurance company how I had a prop strike on a barn door...
Also pre-trailer inspection includes mags OFF, throttle closed, and fuel
off; unless you want to start playing tug-of-war, tow-vehicle vs airplane,
in traffic!
Bob Brennan - N717GB
1991 UK Model 2 ELSA Kitfox
Rotax 582 with 3 blade prop
Wrightsville Pa
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tom Jones
Sent: 21 November 2008 10:54 am
Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: A Fun Flight
At 45 mph on the trailer my prop rotates slowly. It stops for a few seconds
while the compression is evidently overcome then rotates and stops again for
a few seconds on the next compression etc. 503 Rotax 3:1 gear box, 72 inch
warp drive 2 blade prop. I tie a rope to it to prevent the rotation.
I know not may 503's on a kitfox, not enough power.
--------
Tom Jones
Classic IV
503 Rotax, 72 inch Two blade Warp
Ellensburg, WA
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=215544#215544
Message 7
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Hi George,
There has been tons of discussions on this subject on many forums. People feel
differently about the subject, but the very large majority are using the 91 octane
with ethanol. Bottom line, use the 91 octane with the ethanol. Rotax says
5% ethanol is ok, but many places in the world use 17%-24% without any issues
and Rotax knows this. The engine works fine with it, just make sure the other
fuel components like the fuel tank and everything else downstream is ok with
the ethanol. Most systems are good to go. If you test most gas stations ethanol
% they usually average 5%-7% ethanol. If you just can't stand the ethanol then
by all means use 100LL, but use a fuel additive like Decalin to help reduce
the lead deposits. 100LL is worse than the ethanol on the engine over time.
This is strictly a personal choice you'll have to make.
p.s.
If you use a plastic fuel filter drop it in some 91 octane with ethanol for a a
few days. Pull it out and then see if it is soft and pliable. If it is go to
another fuel filter. Some plastic filter Mfg's have said their filter was ethanol
resistant, but didn't really turn out that way.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Service Center
520-574-1080
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=215609#215609
Message 8
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I am Hi Test Chevron only with good luck. I would only be a little worried
about reaction with fuel tanks. Epoxy=2C etc.
Have 1400 hours on my bird.
Clint
> Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: 912S Fuel> From: issadiver1@yahoo.com> Date: Fr
i=2C 21 Nov 2008 16:53:30 -0800> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com> > --> Kitfo
x-List message posted by: "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1@yahoo.com>> > Hi George=2C
> > There has been tons of discussions on this subject on many forums. Peop
le feel differently about the subject=2C but the very large majority are us
ing the 91 octane with ethanol. Bottom line=2C use the 91 octane with the e
thanol. Rotax says 5% ethanol is ok=2C but many places in the world use 17%
-24% without any issues and Rotax knows this. The engine works fine with it
=2C just make sure the other fuel components like the fuel tank and everyth
ing else downstream is ok with the ethanol. Most systems are good to go. If
you test most gas stations ethanol % they usually average 5%-7% ethanol. I
f you just can't stand the ethanol then by all means use 100LL=2C but use a
fuel additive like Decalin to help reduce the lead deposits. 100LL is wors
e than the ethanol on the engine over time.> > This is strictly a personal
choice you'll have to make. > > > p.s.> If you use a plastic fuel filter dr
op it in some 91 octane with ethanol for a a few days. Pull it out and then
see if it is soft and pliable. If it is go to another fuel filter. Some pl
astic filter Mfg's have said their filter was ethanol resistant=2C but didn
't really turn out that way.> > --------> Roger Lee> Tucson=2C Az.> Light S
port Repairman - Maintenance Rated> Rotax Service Center> 520-574-1080> > >
> > Read this topic online here:> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.
===> > >
Message 9
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I am with Roger on this one. Ethanol does not hurt the Rotax 912 at all. Even
if over time there are float, or other minor issues, they are very easily fixed.
100 LL loads up the engine with lead over time, there is no way to get it out.
I would much rather change a few parts in my fuel system than have an engine
that is loaded up with lead and have to deal with all the issues this creates,
with no way to ever get it out.
Also, with 100 LL, you can NOT use pure synthetic oil, which means you engine will
wear faster... Not to mention more frequent oil and spark plug changes.
The headaches with 100 LL are much greater than they would ever be with ethanol
as far as the engine is concerned.
Just be very careful with ethanol and fiberglass fuel tanks, and older fuel system
components, ethanol can eat through them very quickly and send stuff down
the line that can clog a fuel filter. A friend of mine put premium gasoline
containing ethanol in his older plane with fiberglass tanks, and a week later
fuel was leaking out of the wings onto the ground.
Mike
--------
"NO FEAR" - If you have no fear you did not go as fast as you could
have !!!
Kolb MK-III Xtra, 912-S
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=215637#215637
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