Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:51 AM - new bush landing gear (Catz631@aol.com)
2. 05:16 AM - Re: new bush landing gear (Dee Young)
3. 06:07 AM - Re: New issue, turtle deck security (Dan Stanton)
4. 06:52 AM - Re: New issue, turtle deck security (Tom Jones)
5. 06:55 AM - Re: Re: Seasonal change reminder (Lynn Matteson)
6. 07:03 AM - New Forum (Noel Loveys)
7. 07:24 AM - Re: Re: Seasonal change reminder (Lynn Matteson)
8. 08:12 AM - Re: Re: Seasonal change reminder (Noel Loveys)
9. 08:19 AM - Re: Re: Seasonal change reminder (Noel Loveys)
10. 08:52 AM - Re: Re: New issue, turtle deck security (Lynn Matteson)
11. 09:06 AM - Re: Re: Seasonal change reminder (Lynn Matteson)
12. 09:16 AM - Re: Re: Seasonal change reminder (Lynn Matteson)
13. 09:44 AM - Re: Re: Greenhouse construction (Lynn Matteson)
14. 09:48 AM - Re: Re: Seasonal change reminder (Jim Crowder)
15. 10:11 AM - new bush gear (Catz631@aol.com)
16. 10:21 AM - Re: Re: New issue, turtle deck security (Lynn Matteson)
17. 10:58 AM - Re: Re: Seasonal change reminder (Lynn Matteson)
18. 11:52 AM - Re: new bush gear (Jim Crowder)
19. 11:52 AM - Re: Re: Seasonal change reminder (Jim Crowder)
20. 12:27 PM - fuselage tubing thickness (charles cook)
21. 12:34 PM - Re:new bush gear (Francisco dcubj3)
22. 01:21 PM - Re: Re: Seasonal change reminder (Noel Loveys)
23. 01:26 PM - Re: Re: Seasonal change reminder (Noel Loveys)
24. 02:02 PM - Re: new bush gear (Noel Loveys)
25. 03:33 PM - Re: new bush gear (Lynn Matteson)
26. 07:10 PM - Re: new bush gear (Francisco dcubj3)
27. 07:51 PM - Death of Dr. robert Jones son Michael (Bob Jones)
28. 08:10 PM - Re: Re: Seasonal change reminder (Paul Franz - Merlin GT)
29. 09:02 PM - Re: Death of Dr. robert Jones son Michael (Paul Franz - Merlin GT)
Message 1
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| Subject: | new bush landing gear |
I recently purchased a new landing gear for my aircraft and installed it the
last two days.It is the "Bush" gear offered by _Highwing LLC_ (Highwing LLC)
.
My aircraft had the original narrow landing gear and it has worked fine
since I bought the aircraft about a 1 1/2 years ago. I had read about some of
the possible problems with the original gear such as hard landings cracking
tubes,side loads folding the gear,etc.. The bungee changing every year or so was
also going to be a pain in the butt. Now my gear has been fine with no
problems but when I saw the new bush gear that Lowell and Mark were working on,I
had to have it ! I had previously installed the retro elevator trim kit that
his company offers (as well as the radiator shutters,throttle bug,etc) so I
knew the quality would be first class.
I had considered the Grove gear which I know is a fine gear,but I would
have to go thru the expense of changing my axles,brakes and wheels. This would
be a bit sporty in the money department !
I talked to Lowell and he said he would build me a "bush" gear which would
fit my original axles,wheels etc and would bolt right on to my fuselage (ie:
plug and play) He also offered to build super deluxe fairings to cover the
gear legs. I agreed and I now have the gear.
It was indeed a bolt on unit . The quality of the welds and design is
fantastic! And those aluminum fairings,WOW !
The old gear legs weighed 13.2 lbs. The Grove gear is advertised at 24 lbs
and this gear with fairings and all weighs 9 lbs !!! and the best part is
that it fits my old axles,brakes and wheels so it saved me a lot of money ! I
have no intent of landing on rocks,logs old cars ,etc so I don't want the larger
axles or 26" wheels.( I am using the Nanking (sp) smooth tires) I will use
the aircraft to land at my grass strip,and airport bum at local airports. Now
I could take this gear off airport as it is certainly very stout !
Here is the bad part. I have a few pictures of the installation but my main
computer is in for repairs and it has the picture program. I will get it
back today and send in some pictures.
In the mean time I have to install longer brake lines and do some other
work prior to flying so it will be a few days before I have a flight report. It
sure does look nice on the aircraft ! Can't wait to fly it!
Dick Maddux
Fox 4-1200
Rotax 912UL
Pensacola,Fl
**************Need a job? Find an employment agency near you.
(http://yellowpages.aol.com/search?query=employment_agencies&ncid=emlcntusyelp00000003)
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: new bush landing gear |
How about a picture of the new gear?
----- Original Message -----
From: Catz631@aol.com<mailto:Catz631@aol.com>
To: kitfox-list@matronics.com<mailto:kitfox-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Friday, February 20, 2009 5:43 AM
Subject: Kitfox-List: new bush landing gear
I recently purchased a new landing gear for my aircraft and installed
it the last two days.It is the "Bush" gear offered by Highwing
LLC<about:Highwing LLC>.
My aircraft had the original narrow landing gear and it has worked
fine since I bought the aircraft about a 1 1/2 years ago. I had read
about some of the possible problems with the original gear such as hard
landings cracking tubes,side loads folding the gear,etc.. The bungee
changing every year or so was also going to be a pain in the butt. Now
my gear has been fine with no problems but when I saw the new bush gear
that Lowell and Mark were working on,I had to have it ! I had previously
installed the retro elevator trim kit that his company offers (as well
as the radiator shutters,throttle bug,etc) so I knew the quality would
be first class.
I had considered the Grove gear which I know is a fine gear,but I
would have to go thru the expense of changing my axles,brakes and
wheels. This would be a bit sporty in the money department !
I talked to Lowell and he said he would build me a "bush" gear which
would fit my original axles,wheels etc and would bolt right on to my
fuselage (ie: plug and play) He also offered to build super deluxe
fairings to cover the gear legs. I agreed and I now have the gear.
It was indeed a bolt on unit . The quality of the welds and design is
fantastic! And those aluminum fairings,WOW !
The old gear legs weighed 13.2 lbs. The Grove gear is advertised at
24 lbs and this gear with fairings and all weighs 9 lbs !!! and the best
part is that it fits my old axles,brakes and wheels so it saved me a lot
of money ! I have no intent of landing on rocks,logs old cars ,etc so I
don't want the larger axles or 26" wheels.( I am using the Nanking (sp)
smooth tires) I will use the aircraft to land at my grass strip,and
airport bum at local airports. Now I could take this gear off airport
as it is certainly very stout !
Here is the bad part. I have a few pictures of the installation but
my main computer is in for repairs and it has the picture program. I
will get it back today and send in some pictures.
In the mean time I have to install longer brake lines and do some
other work prior to flying so it will be a few days before I have a
flight report. It sure does look nice on the aircraft ! Can't wait to
fly it!
Dick Maddux
Fox 4-1200
Rotax 912UL
Pensacola,Fl
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
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you<http://yellowpages.aol.com/search?query=employment_agencies&ncid=
emlcntusyelp00000003>.
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avigator?Kitfox-List>
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on>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: New issue, turtle deck security |
Lynn,
Just go down to Fastenall on Page Ave and pick some up. If they don't have them
on hand they will order them and have them in two days, max.
--------
Dan Stanton
801 125 hrs.
701 80% done
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231200#231200
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: New issue, turtle deck security |
> Okay, here is a few things I am hearing; solid rivets are easy to use, you do
not need anchor nuts with nylon lock inserts, you do not need a screw every 2"
as with the rivets. Is this all accurate for what everyone here is saying.
You need a locking nut on the anchor so you don't have to tighten the screws too
tight against the skylight. Stick with a screw every two inches.
--------
Tom Jones
Classic IV
503 Rotax, 72 inch Two blade Warp
Ellensburg, WA
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231207#231207
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Seasonal change reminder |
I looked at my bending bar torque wrench today, and it is a 150 ft-lb
capacity, with marks in 5 lb increments...hardly the fine touch
needed to get a 10-13 ft-lb reading. My inch-lb breakaway wrench goes
up to 260 in-lb, which is why I like it for a 130-160 in-lb
measurement, but you can't read exactly what the "found" torque is,
unless you just keep turning up the numbers until it starts to turn
the fastener before breaking over....at least I haven't figured out a
way.
And just for the record...and to make all the engineers happy....I
looked at the instructions for two of my torque wrenches, and they
refer to ft-lbs, or in-lbs, unlike the *correct* (engineer driven,
maybe) phrasing of lb-ft. or lb-in. One instruction sheet says, in
passing, (ft-lb or lb-ft), so they seem to think the average Joe
Mechanic talks in ft-lbs before lb-ft. I know this is gonna raise
hell with the perfectionist (which I pretend to be on good days), but
in this case, I tend to go with what I've learned and heard at
garages and hangars for years....doesn't make it right, just makes it
easier to talk about. Why change 100 years of stupidity just to talk
properly, eh? : )
Lynn Matteson
Kitfox IV Speedster, taildragger
Jabiru 2200, #2062, 605 hrs
Sensenich 62x46
Electroair direct-fire ignition system
New skis done and flying
do not archive
On Feb 19, 2009, at 3:27 PM, Noel Loveys wrote:
> Jim:
>
>
> Like I said math wasnt my forte. Apparently it still isnt. I
> should have noticed that. I guess the reason I didnt is generally
> on small planes the props are usually torque in lb.in.. not lb.ft..
>
>
> Noel
Message 6
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FYI there is a forum just started up at www.rotaxaircraft.com
It is not just for Rotax powered planes and they do have a Kitfox forum
along with a forum for floatplanes. There are also forums for air-cooled
two strokes and Liquid cooled two-strokes as well as the four-stroke forum.
I'm not suggesting everyone jump ship here. Far from that. Just you may
want to check out the other forum from time to time.
Noel
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Seasonal change reminder |
I haven't called Sensenich yet, but I just went to their website and
downloaded their "Wood propellers: Installation,operation &
Maintemance"...my copy that came with prop is at the hangar. I edited
out the stuff not pertaining to my prop bolt size just to reduce the
stuff to wade through, and here is what I found:
************************
IMPORTANT! Improper torque values will be
obtained by measuring the breaking torque in
a loosening direction. The torque should be
checked in a tightening direction and adjusted
as needed.
TABLE 2.
BOLT TORQUE CHECK VALUES / ACTIONS
Bolt Size
AN5 5/16" bolts:
Between 87-130 (in-lbs) Adjust torque, see Table 1.
Between 130-160 (in-lbs) No further action required
AN5
5/16
bolts
Above 160 (in-lbs) Loosen Bolts, re-torque see Table 1
**********************
Table 1 says to torque to 130-160 in-lbs, 11-13 ft-lbs, etc for fig
newton-meters, so they are saying to *loosen and re-torque if it's
too high*. Maybe give those fibers a chance at mellowing out and
reforming themselves if the damage has not already been done.
Regarding lockwire on *my* Jabiru installation, nylock nuts were
provided from Jabiru, so I used them. Maybe they know that the Jab
requires more frequent checks than the normal engine, so they went
that route, or maybe it was Sensenich's call, I couldn't say. Maybe
I'd still better make that phone call.
Lynn Matteson
Kitfox IV Speedster, taildragger
Jabiru 2200, #2062, 605 hrs
Sensenich 62x46
Electroair direct-fire ignition system
New skis done and flying
On Feb 19, 2009, at 10:04 PM, Noel Loveys wrote:
>
> Getting back to Lynn's Sensenich prop. I expect the test that
> Sensenich
> wants done is a periodic test to make sure the minimum original
> torque is
> still there. Therefore he only needs to set his wrench to the
> original
> torque value and let it click once. If because of expansion of
> the wood
> fibres the torque is a little high that would do less damage than
> loosening
> and retorquing.
>
> Noel
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Seasonal change reminder |
in. Lb. or lb.in all the same to me. When I was taking Physics the prof.
preferred to see ft.lb. or in.lb.. In engineering school the instructors
preferred to see the reverse. I think the lb. in. may have come from the
metric which is on the wrench as Neuton-meters.
I was corrected on using in.lb. here a couple of years ago. Thjere are a
few perfectionists around but darned if I know which is perfectly right.
Important part is to use the wrench for more than a filler for the tool
case.
Yours in perfection :-)
Noel
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lynn Matteson
Sent: Friday, February 20, 2009 11:25 AM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Re: Seasonal change reminder
I looked at my bending bar torque wrench today, and it is a 150 ft-lb
capacity, with marks in 5 lb increments...hardly the fine touch
needed to get a 10-13 ft-lb reading. My inch-lb breakaway wrench goes
up to 260 in-lb, which is why I like it for a 130-160 in-lb
measurement, but you can't read exactly what the "found" torque is,
unless you just keep turning up the numbers until it starts to turn
the fastener before breaking over....at least I haven't figured out a
way.
And just for the record...and to make all the engineers happy....I
looked at the instructions for two of my torque wrenches, and they
refer to ft-lbs, or in-lbs, unlike the *correct* (engineer driven,
maybe) phrasing of lb-ft. or lb-in. One instruction sheet says, in
passing, (ft-lb or lb-ft), so they seem to think the average Joe
Mechanic talks in ft-lbs before lb-ft. I know this is gonna raise
hell with the perfectionist (which I pretend to be on good days), but
in this case, I tend to go with what I've learned and heard at
garages and hangars for years....doesn't make it right, just makes it
easier to talk about. Why change 100 years of stupidity just to talk
properly, eh? : )
Lynn Matteson
Kitfox IV Speedster, taildragger
Jabiru 2200, #2062, 605 hrs
Sensenich 62x46
Electroair direct-fire ignition system
New skis done and flying
do not archive
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Seasonal change reminder |
I think what they are getting at there is you cannot check the torque on a
bolt or nut while trying to remove it. If you think the bolt may be too
tight you must first loosen the bolt then re-torque it to spec.
It is recommended never to use a torque wrench to remove a nut or bolt only
to tighten. They work both directions to tighten left hand threaded bolts.
Ivo told me not to drill and use lockwire because people were afraid to cut
the wire and the recommended torque tests were not being done on bolts that
had been lockwired.
Two days of snow on and off have just ended... I'm out to plough the drive
again.
Noel
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lynn Matteson
Sent: Friday, February 20, 2009 11:53 AM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Re: Seasonal change reminder
I haven't called Sensenich yet, but I just went to their website and
downloaded their "Wood propellers: Installation,operation &
Maintemance"...my copy that came with prop is at the hangar. I edited
out the stuff not pertaining to my prop bolt size just to reduce the
stuff to wade through, and here is what I found:
************************
IMPORTANT! Improper torque values will be
obtained by measuring the breaking torque in
a loosening direction. The torque should be
checked in a tightening direction and adjusted
as needed.
TABLE 2.
BOLT TORQUE CHECK VALUES / ACTIONS
Bolt Size
AN5 5/16" bolts:
Between 87-130 (in-lbs) Adjust torque, see Table 1.
Between 130-160 (in-lbs) No further action required
AN5
5/16"
bolts
Above 160 (in-lbs) Loosen Bolts, re-torque see Table 1
**********************
Table 1 says to torque to 130-160 in-lbs, 11-13 ft-lbs, etc for fig
newton-meters, so they are saying to *loosen and re-torque if it's
too high*. Maybe give those fibers a chance at mellowing out and
reforming themselves if the damage has not already been done.
Regarding lockwire on *my* Jabiru installation, nylock nuts were
provided from Jabiru, so I used them. Maybe they know that the Jab
requires more frequent checks than the normal engine, so they went
that route, or maybe it was Sensenich's call, I couldn't say. Maybe
I'd still better make that phone call.
Lynn Matteson
Kitfox IV Speedster, taildragger
Jabiru 2200, #2062, 605 hrs
Sensenich 62x46
Electroair direct-fire ignition system
New skis done and flying
On Feb 19, 2009, at 10:04 PM, Noel Loveys wrote:
>
> Getting back to Lynn's Sensenich prop. I expect the test that
> Sensenich
> wants done is a periodic test to make sure the minimum original
> torque is
> still there. Therefore he only needs to set his wrench to the
> original
> torque value and let it click once. If because of expansion of
> the wood
> fibres the torque is a little high that would do less damage than
> loosening
> and retorquing.
>
> Noel
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: New issue, turtle deck security |
Are we talking the 3/32" rivets, or the anchor nuts? I've kinda
forgotten about Fastenall, as the last 3 times I've gone there they
either don't have what I want or they need to sell you a crate of
whatever. While a crate of rivets isn't such a bad idea, a crate of
1/2-13's, 10 inches long might take a few airplanes worth of building
to use up. : )
I'll look into it, Dan....you got 125 hrs on the 801 already? time
for me to dust off the Kitfox, or you'll be catching me...hours that
is, no way in speed! : )
701...only another 80% to go....: )
Lynn Matteson
Kitfox IV Speedster, taildragger
Jabiru 2200, #2062, 605 hrs
Sensenich 62x46
Electroair direct-fire ignition system
New skis done and flying
do not archive
On Feb 20, 2009, at 9:06 AM, Dan Stanton wrote:
> <daniel_stanton1@comcast.net>
>
> Lynn,
> Just go down to Fastenall on Page Ave and pick some up. If they
> don't have them on hand they will order them and have them in two
> days, max.
>
> --------
> Dan Stanton
> 801 125 hrs.
> 701 80% done
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231200#231200
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Seasonal change reminder |
Really not too important to use in-lb or lb-in, but what's really
important is to remember which way the tower told you to turn...."did
he say, left then right, or the other way around"
Speaking of torque wrenches, when I first learned what one was, and
just happened to "name drop" that subject to a couple of old flathead
hot rod mechanics, they said, "oh, you mean a tension adjusting
wrench." So one-upmanship isn't just for hangar rats. : )
Lynn Matteson
Kitfox IV Speedster, taildragger
Jabiru 2200, #2062, 605 hrs
Sensenich 62x46
Electroair direct-fire ignition system
New skis done and flying
do not archive
On Feb 20, 2009, at 11:11 AM, Noel Loveys wrote:
>
> I was corrected on using in.lb. here a couple of years ago. Thjere
> are a
> few perfectionists around but darned if I know which is perfectly
> right.
>
> Important part is to use the wrench for more than a filler for the
> tool
> case.
>
> Yours in perfection :-)
> Noel
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Seasonal change reminder |
Actually, they say if the torque IS (my emphasis) above 160 (in my
example) to loosen and re-torque. So I gather from this it is not a
case of "If you think the bolt may be to tight", but a case of
actually being *measured* to be too tight. This may be a case of
semantics on my part, but......
Lynn Matteson
Kitfox IV Speedster, taildragger
Jabiru 2200, #2062, 605 hrs
Sensenich 62x46
Electroair direct-fire ignition system
New skis done and flying
do not archive
On Feb 20, 2009, at 11:18 AM, Noel Loveys wrote:
>
> I think what they are getting at there is you cannot check the
> torque on a
> bolt or nut while trying to remove it. If you think the bolt may
> be too
> tight you must first loosen the bolt then re-torque it to spec.
>
> It is recommended never to use a torque wrench to remove a nut or
> bolt only
> to tighten. They work both directions to tighten left hand
> threaded bolts.
>
> Ivo told me not to drill and use lockwire because people were
> afraid to cut
> the wire and the recommended torque tests were not being done on
> bolts that
> had been lockwired.
>
> Two days of snow on and off have just ended... I'm out to plough
> the drive
> again.
>
> Noel
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Greenhouse construction |
I just looked at my installation this morning, and found that I had
used 14 (~2" spacing) 10-32's holding each side on, and 15 (~2 1/4"
spacing) 10-32's along the rear. The sides...the butt rib
capstrips..were reinforced with the thin aluminum strip mentioned
here, which is up under the butt rib capstrip, and looks like it was
epoxied in place. From 4 years ago, it's hard to remember if I did
that strip installation or the previous owner. But I alone am
responsible for the machine screw spacing, and the choice of 10-32's
for which I do NOT apologize...might be overkill, but better over
than under when it comes to lift acting on this area. If James had
trouble with his (previous owner's) rivets pulling through, and if
the front of the windshield along the "A post" is held on with
factory-supplied 10-32's, in an area under *pressure* why would I
choose any lesser-size screw to hold down something that is subjected
to lift? This is probably the argument that I had with myself when I
came upon this question during the building, in 2004. In hindsight
maybe 8-32's, but I don't think I'd have been comfortable with 6's.
I'm just a seat-of-the-pants engineer, but my butt gets squiggly when
I think of using something as small as a 6-32...maybe with the thin .
080"(?) Lexan that comes with the kit, but not with the .125"
thickness of the LP Aeroplastics windshield/skylight...it just
doesn't seem right.
My butt rib is covered, and I have peek-through windows to view the
wing tank sight gauges, but I can still see the anchor nuts and the
reinforcing strip for about half of the butt rib. Sure glad I put
anchor nuts in...would hate to have to get in there to work on that
area after having covered it up.
Lynn Matteson
Kitfox IV Speedster, taildragger
Jabiru 2200, #2062, 605 hrs
Sensenich 62x46
Electroair direct-fire ignition system
New skis done and flying
On Feb 20, 2009, at 1:39 AM, patrick reilly wrote:
> Guy, There is fabric both sides of the butt rib. However the
> original builder put portholes in the fabric similar to inspection
> holes. You can see in.But, Not enough access to work in there. I
> will have to do a little surgical work on the fabric.
>
> Pat Reilly
> Mod 3 582 Rebuild
> Rockford, IL
>
>
> > Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2009 21:45:28 -0800
> > To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
> > From: bnn@nethere.com
> > Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Re: Greenhouse construction
> >
> >
> > At 04:23 PM 2/18/2009, you wrote:
> > >Do I remove the fabric covering on the rib and bolt down the
> cabin top?
> >
> > Pat,
> > I'm a little confused. How did you confirm there was no
> > metal backing if you can't get to the underside without removing
> > fabric? I'm definitely not understanding your configuration.
> >
> >
> > Guy Buchanan
> > San Diego, CA
> > K-IV 1200 / 582-C / Warp / 10=====================
> >=====
> >
> >
> >
> ============================================================ _-
> ============================================================ _-
> contribution_-
> ===========================================================
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Seasonal change reminder |
Lynn,
How do you know if it is too high without loosening first?
Jim Crowder
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-
> server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lynn Matteson
> Sent: Friday, February 20, 2009 5:23 AM
> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Re: Seasonal change reminder
>
>
> I haven't called Sensenich yet, but I just went to their website and
> downloaded their "Wood propellers: Installation,operation &
> Maintemance"...my copy that came with prop is at the hangar. I edited
> out the stuff not pertaining to my prop bolt size just to reduce the
> stuff to wade through, and here is what I found:
> ************************
> IMPORTANT! Improper torque values will be
> obtained by measuring the breaking torque in
> a loosening direction. The torque should be
> checked in a tightening direction and adjusted
> as needed.
>
>
> TABLE 2.
> BOLT TORQUE CHECK VALUES / ACTIONS
> Bolt Size
> AN5 5/16" bolts:
>
> Between 87-130 (in-lbs) Adjust torque, see Table 1.
> Between 130-160 (in-lbs) No further action required
> AN5
> 5/16"
> bolts
> Above 160 (in-lbs) Loosen Bolts, re-torque see Table 1
>
> **********************
>
> Table 1 says to torque to 130-160 in-lbs, 11-13 ft-lbs, etc for fig
> newton-meters, so they are saying to *loosen and re-torque if it's
> too high*. Maybe give those fibers a chance at mellowing out and
> reforming themselves if the damage has not already been done.
>
> Regarding lockwire on *my* Jabiru installation, nylock nuts were
> provided from Jabiru, so I used them. Maybe they know that the Jab
> requires more frequent checks than the normal engine, so they went
> that route, or maybe it was Sensenich's call, I couldn't say. Maybe
> I'd still better make that phone call.
>
> Lynn Matteson
> Kitfox IV Speedster, taildragger
> Jabiru 2200, #2062, 605 hrs
> Sensenich 62x46
> Electroair direct-fire ignition system
> New skis done and flying
>
Message 15
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Here are some pictures of my new gear.I will give you updates as I go along.
Dick Maddux
Pensacola,Fl
**************Need a job? Find an employment agency near you.
(http://yellowpages.aol.com/search?query=employment_agencies&ncid=emlcntusyelp00000003)
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: New issue, turtle deck security |
Ok, Guy, I guess you have to be an engineer to solve the code on
those rivets. It says on the Skygeek page "near the bottom of page"
100 flush head, but what size? None of the six offered has a size
printed on the item, and a click on "description" (on the other type
of rivets) gives less information than the one-line
description...which is no description at all. The
recreationalmobility site was even worse...no description
whatsoever...no legend for figuring out the code for a "ccr-264-
ss-3-3" .
I'm just a shade-tree mechanic working with a Mac, so maybe I need
help....no further comment on that comment is required. : )
Lynn Matteson
Kitfox IV Speedster, taildragger
Jabiru 2200, #2062, 605 hrs
Sensenich 62x46
Electroair direct-fire ignition system
New skis done and flying
do not archive
On Feb 19, 2009, at 12:40 AM, Guy Buchanan wrote:
>
> At 03:55 PM 2/18/2009, you wrote:
>> Is it possible to install these with blind rivets?
>> I can not find blind countersunk rivets in 3/32" diameter like the
>> anchor nuts call for. Also I am not experienced with solid rivets
>> and I am not going to figure out how on my butt ribs, ya know?
>
> For 3/32 counter sunk rivets, see:
>
> http://www.recreationalmobility.com/cgi-bin/recreation/28193.html
> http://www.recreationalmobility.com/cgi-bin/recreation/28195.html
>
> and
>
> http://www.skygeek.com/hardware-cherry-rivetblind.html near the
> bottom of the page.
>
>
> Guy Buchanan
> San Diego, CA
> K-IV 1200 / 582-C / Warp / 100% done, thanks mostly to Bob Ducar.
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Seasonal change reminder |
Well, reading between the lines of their torque-checking method, ie:
***************
IMPORTANT! Improper torque values will be obtained by measuring the
breaking torque in a loosening direction. The torque should be
checked in a tightening direction and adjusted as needed.
****************
I take this to mean set wrench to 160 for example, turn wrench in
tightening direction, and if it breaks over at the 160, it's probably
too tight, or right on. This is a case where it would be better to
use a bending bar wrench, I would think. In any case, in order to
check if it was higher than 160, you'd have to go beyond 160, and
then you would be at THAT figure and have to loosen and go back just
TO 160 or less maybe....interesting question, Jim. And I'm not an
engineer, so I get to say "Duh, I guess I just don't know!" (They
must teach in engineering school that there is no such term as "I
don't know" or "Gee, I didn't know that")
Joking aside, I guess that if, say, 160 is allowed, maybe you should
set to 155, then if subsequent re-checks at 155 proved a higher
reading...up to 160, then you're ok. If it went beyond 160, it's time
to loosen all and re-torque....maybe.
In the case of a wooden prop, I think the operative watchwords are on
the label which shall remain affixed to my prop, near the hub, where
is says something like "Warning: Wooden props are subject to humidity
changes and should be checked for proper torque frequently, and...."
I see the wooden prop as being a living thing that absorbs water and
swells accordingly. If the torque is too great...for too long a
time....fiber crushing can result. If the torque-check shows too high
a tension, then loosening to something less and retightening to specs
MAY keep the fibers from breaking. If not too much time has gone by
with the tension ever-increasing due to high humidity, then maybe a
frequent torque check can arrest the damage. I am imagining something
being restrained, then swelling up to the point of bursting, but if
the restraints are relaxed, no bursting takes place.
(long-winded response that says nothing) : )
Lynn Matteson
Kitfox IV Speedster, taildragger
Jabiru 2200, #2062, 605 hrs
Sensenich 62x46
Electroair direct-fire ignition system
New skis done and flying
do not archive
On Feb 20, 2009, at 12:47 PM, Jim Crowder wrote:
> <jcrowder@lpbroadband.net>
>
> Lynn,
> How do you know if it is too high without loosening first?
>
> Jim Crowder
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-kitfox-
>> list-
>> server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lynn Matteson
>> Sent: Friday, February 20, 2009 5:23 AM
>> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Re: Seasonal change reminder
>>
>>
>> I haven't called Sensenich yet, but I just went to their website and
>> downloaded their "Wood propellers: Installation,operation &
>> Maintemance"...my copy that came with prop is at the hangar. I edited
>> out the stuff not pertaining to my prop bolt size just to reduce the
>> stuff to wade through, and here is what I found:
>> ************************
>> IMPORTANT! Improper torque values will be
>> obtained by measuring the breaking torque in
>> a loosening direction. The torque should be
>> checked in a tightening direction and adjusted
>> as needed.
>>
>>
>> TABLE 2.
>> BOLT TORQUE CHECK VALUES / ACTIONS
>> Bolt Size
>> AN5 5/16" bolts:
>>
>> Between 87-130 (in-lbs) Adjust torque, see Table 1.
>> Between 130-160 (in-lbs) No further action required
>> AN5
>> 5/16"
>> bolts
>> Above 160 (in-lbs) Loosen Bolts, re-torque see Table 1
>>
>> **********************
>>
>> Table 1 says to torque to 130-160 in-lbs, 11-13 ft-lbs, etc for fig
>> newton-meters, so they are saying to *loosen and re-torque if it's
>> too high*. Maybe give those fibers a chance at mellowing out and
>> reforming themselves if the damage has not already been done.
>>
>> Regarding lockwire on *my* Jabiru installation, nylock nuts were
>> provided from Jabiru, so I used them. Maybe they know that the Jab
>> requires more frequent checks than the normal engine, so they went
>> that route, or maybe it was Sensenich's call, I couldn't say. Maybe
>> I'd still better make that phone call.
>>
>> Lynn Matteson
>> Kitfox IV Speedster, taildragger
>> Jabiru 2200, #2062, 605 hrs
>> Sensenich 62x46
>> Electroair direct-fire ignition system
>> New skis done and flying
>>
>
>
Message 18
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The gear looks great. If it performs as tough as it looks, you have made a
great choice.
Jim Crowder
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Catz631@aol.com
Sent: Friday, February 20, 2009 8:08 AM
Subject: Kitfox-List: new bush gear
Here are some pictures of my new gear.I will give you updates as I go along.
Dick Maddux
Pensacola,Fl
_____
Need a job? Find
<http://yellowpages.aol.com/search?query=employment_agencies&ncid=emlcntusye
lp00000003> an employment agency near you.
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Seasonal change reminder |
I am also not an engineer, but there have been times in the past when I have
read engineering books. This was mostly in regard to my time in the
construction business. I have read that wood is a great material because of
its ability to accept excessive loads, to deflect, and to then recover when
the excessive short term load is removed. Short term is important here
because if the excessive load is allowed to remain, damage very likely.
Steel and concrete do not share this same ability to recover. Some of the
recovery ability probably applies here. In construction, this recovery
while common, is not something a designer can count on and assuming it would
be a mistake. It is probably the same here.
Jim Crowder
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-
> server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lynn Matteson
> Sent: Friday, February 20, 2009 8:57 AM
> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Re: Seasonal change reminder
>
>
> Well, reading between the lines of their torque-checking method, ie:
> ***************
> IMPORTANT! Improper torque values will be obtained by measuring the
> breaking torque in a loosening direction. The torque should be
> checked in a tightening direction and adjusted as needed.
> ****************
> I take this to mean set wrench to 160 for example, turn wrench in
> tightening direction, and if it breaks over at the 160, it's probably
> too tight, or right on. This is a case where it would be better to
> use a bending bar wrench, I would think. In any case, in order to
> check if it was higher than 160, you'd have to go beyond 160, and
> then you would be at THAT figure and have to loosen and go back just
> TO 160 or less maybe....interesting question, Jim. And I'm not an
> engineer, so I get to say "Duh, I guess I just don't know!" (They
> must teach in engineering school that there is no such term as "I
> don't know" or "Gee, I didn't know that")
>
> Joking aside, I guess that if, say, 160 is allowed, maybe you should
> set to 155, then if subsequent re-checks at 155 proved a higher
> reading...up to 160, then you're ok. If it went beyond 160, it's time
> to loosen all and re-torque....maybe.
>
> In the case of a wooden prop, I think the operative watchwords are on
> the label which shall remain affixed to my prop, near the hub, where
> is says something like "Warning: Wooden props are subject to humidity
> changes and should be checked for proper torque frequently, and...."
>
> I see the wooden prop as being a living thing that absorbs water and
> swells accordingly. If the torque is too great...for too long a
> time....fiber crushing can result. If the torque-check shows too high
> a tension, then loosening to something less and retightening to specs
> MAY keep the fibers from breaking. If not too much time has gone by
> with the tension ever-increasing due to high humidity, then maybe a
> frequent torque check can arrest the damage. I am imagining something
> being restrained, then swelling up to the point of bursting, but if
> the restraints are relaxed, no bursting takes place.
> (long-winded response that says nothing) : )
>
>
> Lynn Matteson
> Kitfox IV Speedster, taildragger
> Jabiru 2200, #2062, 605 hrs
> Sensenich 62x46
> Electroair direct-fire ignition system
> New skis done and flying
> do not archive
>
>
>
> On Feb 20, 2009, at 12:47 PM, Jim Crowder wrote:
>
> > <jcrowder@lpbroadband.net>
> >
> > Lynn,
> > How do you know if it is too high without loosening first?
> >
> > Jim Crowder
> >
> >> -----Original Message-----
> >> From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-kitfox-
> >> list-
> >> server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lynn Matteson
> >> Sent: Friday, February 20, 2009 5:23 AM
> >> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
> >> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Re: Seasonal change reminder
> >>
> >>
> >> I haven't called Sensenich yet, but I just went to their website and
> >> downloaded their "Wood propellers: Installation,operation &
> >> Maintemance"...my copy that came with prop is at the hangar. I
> edited
> >> out the stuff not pertaining to my prop bolt size just to reduce the
> >> stuff to wade through, and here is what I found:
> >> ************************
> >> IMPORTANT! Improper torque values will be
> >> obtained by measuring the breaking torque in
> >> a loosening direction. The torque should be
> >> checked in a tightening direction and adjusted
> >> as needed.
> >>
> >>
> >> TABLE 2.
> >> BOLT TORQUE CHECK VALUES / ACTIONS
> >> Bolt Size
> >> AN5 5/16" bolts:
> >>
> >> Between 87-130 (in-lbs) Adjust torque, see Table 1.
> >> Between 130-160 (in-lbs) No further action required
> >> AN5
> >> 5/16"
> >> bolts
> >> Above 160 (in-lbs) Loosen Bolts, re-torque see Table 1
> >>
> >> **********************
> >>
> >> Table 1 says to torque to 130-160 in-lbs, 11-13 ft-lbs, etc for fig
> >> newton-meters, so they are saying to *loosen and re-torque if it's
> >> too high*. Maybe give those fibers a chance at mellowing out and
> >> reforming themselves if the damage has not already been done.
> >>
> >> Regarding lockwire on *my* Jabiru installation, nylock nuts were
> >> provided from Jabiru, so I used them. Maybe they know that the Jab
> >> requires more frequent checks than the normal engine, so they went
> >> that route, or maybe it was Sensenich's call, I couldn't say. Maybe
> >> I'd still better make that phone call.
> >>
> >> Lynn Matteson
> >> Kitfox IV Speedster, taildragger
> >> Jabiru 2200, #2062, 605 hrs
> >> Sensenich 62x46
> >> Electroair direct-fire ignition system
> >> New skis done and flying
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
Message 20
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| Subject: | fuselage tubing thickness |
Does anybody know the wall thickness of the fuselage tubing?
Charles Cook
N363KF -582
ATL=0A=0A=0A
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: new bush gear |
Here are some pictures of my aircraft with Kitfox Bush landing gear
Francisco Drovetta
Sao Paulo, Brazil
www.dcubj3.com.br
De:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
Para:kitfox-list@matronics.com
C=F3pia:
Data:Fri, 20 Feb 2009 13:07:32 EST
Assunto:Kitfox-List: new bush gear
> Here are some pictures of my new gear.I will give you updates as I go a
long.
> Dick Maddux
> Pensacola,Fl
Need a job? Find an employment agency near you.
Message 22
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|
| Subject: | Re: Seasonal change reminder |
Check each bolt at the spec torque. If any are loose they will tighten to
spec.
Any that do not move, one at a time, back them one half turn then torque to
spec.
Noel
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lynn Matteson
Sent: Friday, February 20, 2009 3:27 PM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Re: Seasonal change reminder
Well, reading between the lines of their torque-checking method, ie:
***************
IMPORTANT! Improper torque values will be obtained by measuring the
breaking torque in a loosening direction. The torque should be
checked in a tightening direction and adjusted as needed.
****************
I take this to mean set wrench to 160 for example, turn wrench in
tightening direction, and if it breaks over at the 160, it's probably
too tight, or right on. This is a case where it would be better to
use a bending bar wrench, I would think. In any case, in order to
check if it was higher than 160, you'd have to go beyond 160, and
then you would be at THAT figure and have to loosen and go back just
TO 160 or less maybe....interesting question, Jim. And I'm not an
engineer, so I get to say "Duh, I guess I just don't know!" (They
must teach in engineering school that there is no such term as "I
don't know" or "Gee, I didn't know that")
Joking aside, I guess that if, say, 160 is allowed, maybe you should
set to 155, then if subsequent re-checks at 155 proved a higher
reading...up to 160, then you're ok. If it went beyond 160, it's time
to loosen all and re-torque....maybe.
In the case of a wooden prop, I think the operative watchwords are on
the label which shall remain affixed to my prop, near the hub, where
is says something like "Warning: Wooden props are subject to humidity
changes and should be checked for proper torque frequently, and...."
I see the wooden prop as being a living thing that absorbs water and
swells accordingly. If the torque is too great...for too long a
time....fiber crushing can result. If the torque-check shows too high
a tension, then loosening to something less and retightening to specs
MAY keep the fibers from breaking. If not too much time has gone by
with the tension ever-increasing due to high humidity, then maybe a
frequent torque check can arrest the damage. I am imagining something
being restrained, then swelling up to the point of bursting, but if
the restraints are relaxed, no bursting takes place.
(long-winded response that says nothing) : )
Lynn Matteson
Kitfox IV Speedster, taildragger
Jabiru 2200, #2062, 605 hrs
Sensenich 62x46
Electroair direct-fire ignition system
New skis done and flying
do not archive
On Feb 20, 2009, at 12:47 PM, Jim Crowder wrote:
> <jcrowder@lpbroadband.net>
>
> Lynn,
> How do you know if it is too high without loosening first?
>
> Jim Crowder
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-kitfox-
>> list-
>> server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lynn Matteson
>> Sent: Friday, February 20, 2009 5:23 AM
>> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Re: Seasonal change reminder
>>
>>
>> I haven't called Sensenich yet, but I just went to their website and
>> downloaded their "Wood propellers: Installation,operation &
>> Maintemance"...my copy that came with prop is at the hangar. I edited
>> out the stuff not pertaining to my prop bolt size just to reduce the
>> stuff to wade through, and here is what I found:
>> ************************
>> IMPORTANT! Improper torque values will be
>> obtained by measuring the breaking torque in
>> a loosening direction. The torque should be
>> checked in a tightening direction and adjusted
>> as needed.
>>
>>
>> TABLE 2.
>> BOLT TORQUE CHECK VALUES / ACTIONS
>> Bolt Size
>> AN5 5/16" bolts:
>>
>> Between 87-130 (in-lbs) Adjust torque, see Table 1.
>> Between 130-160 (in-lbs) No further action required
>> AN5
>> 5/16"
>> bolts
>> Above 160 (in-lbs) Loosen Bolts, re-torque see Table 1
>>
>> **********************
>>
>> Table 1 says to torque to 130-160 in-lbs, 11-13 ft-lbs, etc for fig
>> newton-meters, so they are saying to *loosen and re-torque if it's
>> too high*. Maybe give those fibers a chance at mellowing out and
>> reforming themselves if the damage has not already been done.
>>
>> Regarding lockwire on *my* Jabiru installation, nylock nuts were
>> provided from Jabiru, so I used them. Maybe they know that the Jab
>> requires more frequent checks than the normal engine, so they went
>> that route, or maybe it was Sensenich's call, I couldn't say. Maybe
>> I'd still better make that phone call.
>>
>> Lynn Matteson
>> Kitfox IV Speedster, taildragger
>> Jabiru 2200, #2062, 605 hrs
>> Sensenich 62x46
>> Electroair direct-fire ignition system
>> New skis done and flying
>>
>
>
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Seasonal change reminder |
Wood and synthetic composite props also have the ability to absorb a lot of
vibration. They shouldn't be flown through rain.
Noel
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim Crowder
Sent: Friday, February 20, 2009 4:20 PM
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Re: Seasonal change reminder
I am also not an engineer, but there have been times in the past when I have
read engineering books. This was mostly in regard to my time in the
construction business. I have read that wood is a great material because of
its ability to accept excessive loads, to deflect, and to then recover when
the excessive short term load is removed. Short term is important here
because if the excessive load is allowed to remain, damage very likely.
Steel and concrete do not share this same ability to recover. Some of the
recovery ability probably applies here. In construction, this recovery
while common, is not something a designer can count on and assuming it would
be a mistake. It is probably the same here.
Jim Crowder
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-
> server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lynn Matteson
> Sent: Friday, February 20, 2009 8:57 AM
> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Re: Seasonal change reminder
>
>
> Well, reading between the lines of their torque-checking method, ie:
> ***************
> IMPORTANT! Improper torque values will be obtained by measuring the
> breaking torque in a loosening direction. The torque should be
> checked in a tightening direction and adjusted as needed.
> ****************
> I take this to mean set wrench to 160 for example, turn wrench in
> tightening direction, and if it breaks over at the 160, it's probably
> too tight, or right on. This is a case where it would be better to
> use a bending bar wrench, I would think. In any case, in order to
> check if it was higher than 160, you'd have to go beyond 160, and
> then you would be at THAT figure and have to loosen and go back just
> TO 160 or less maybe....interesting question, Jim. And I'm not an
> engineer, so I get to say "Duh, I guess I just don't know!" (They
> must teach in engineering school that there is no such term as "I
> don't know" or "Gee, I didn't know that")
>
> Joking aside, I guess that if, say, 160 is allowed, maybe you should
> set to 155, then if subsequent re-checks at 155 proved a higher
> reading...up to 160, then you're ok. If it went beyond 160, it's time
> to loosen all and re-torque....maybe.
>
> In the case of a wooden prop, I think the operative watchwords are on
> the label which shall remain affixed to my prop, near the hub, where
> is says something like "Warning: Wooden props are subject to humidity
> changes and should be checked for proper torque frequently, and...."
>
> I see the wooden prop as being a living thing that absorbs water and
> swells accordingly. If the torque is too great...for too long a
> time....fiber crushing can result. If the torque-check shows too high
> a tension, then loosening to something less and retightening to specs
> MAY keep the fibers from breaking. If not too much time has gone by
> with the tension ever-increasing due to high humidity, then maybe a
> frequent torque check can arrest the damage. I am imagining something
> being restrained, then swelling up to the point of bursting, but if
> the restraints are relaxed, no bursting takes place.
> (long-winded response that says nothing) : )
>
>
> Lynn Matteson
> Kitfox IV Speedster, taildragger
> Jabiru 2200, #2062, 605 hrs
> Sensenich 62x46
> Electroair direct-fire ignition system
> New skis done and flying
> do not archive
>
>
>
> On Feb 20, 2009, at 12:47 PM, Jim Crowder wrote:
>
> > <jcrowder@lpbroadband.net>
> >
> > Lynn,
> > How do you know if it is too high without loosening first?
> >
> > Jim Crowder
> >
> >> -----Original Message-----
> >> From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-kitfox-
> >> list-
> >> server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lynn Matteson
> >> Sent: Friday, February 20, 2009 5:23 AM
> >> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
> >> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Re: Seasonal change reminder
> >>
> >>
> >> I haven't called Sensenich yet, but I just went to their website and
> >> downloaded their "Wood propellers: Installation,operation &
> >> Maintemance"...my copy that came with prop is at the hangar. I
> edited
> >> out the stuff not pertaining to my prop bolt size just to reduce the
> >> stuff to wade through, and here is what I found:
> >> ************************
> >> IMPORTANT! Improper torque values will be
> >> obtained by measuring the breaking torque in
> >> a loosening direction. The torque should be
> >> checked in a tightening direction and adjusted
> >> as needed.
> >>
> >>
> >> TABLE 2.
> >> BOLT TORQUE CHECK VALUES / ACTIONS
> >> Bolt Size
> >> AN5 5/16" bolts:
> >>
> >> Between 87-130 (in-lbs) Adjust torque, see Table 1.
> >> Between 130-160 (in-lbs) No further action required
> >> AN5
> >> 5/16"
> >> bolts
> >> Above 160 (in-lbs) Loosen Bolts, re-torque see Table 1
> >>
> >> **********************
> >>
> >> Table 1 says to torque to 130-160 in-lbs, 11-13 ft-lbs, etc for fig
> >> newton-meters, so they are saying to *loosen and re-torque if it's
> >> too high*. Maybe give those fibers a chance at mellowing out and
> >> reforming themselves if the damage has not already been done.
> >>
> >> Regarding lockwire on *my* Jabiru installation, nylock nuts were
> >> provided from Jabiru, so I used them. Maybe they know that the Jab
> >> requires more frequent checks than the normal engine, so they went
> >> that route, or maybe it was Sensenich's call, I couldn't say. Maybe
> >> I'd still better make that phone call.
> >>
> >> Lynn Matteson
> >> Kitfox IV Speedster, taildragger
> >> Jabiru 2200, #2062, 605 hrs
> >> Sensenich 62x46
> >> Electroair direct-fire ignition system
> >> New skis done and flying
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
Message 24
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Ok! now how did it weigh in any big changes in bal?
Noel
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Francisco
dcubj3
Sent: Friday, February 20, 2009 5:02 PM
Subject: Re:Kitfox-List: new bush gear
Here are some pictures of my aircraft with Kitfox Bush landing gear
Francisco Drovetta
Sao Paulo, Brazil
www.dcubj3.com.br <http://www.dcubj3.com.br/>
De:
owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
Para:
kitfox-list@matronics.com
C=F3pia:
Data:
Fri, 20 Feb 2009 13:07:32 EST
Assunto:
Kitfox-List: new bush gear
> Here are some pictures of my new gear.I will give you updates as I go
along.
> Dick Maddux
> Pensacola,Fl
_____
Need a job? Find
<http://yellowpages.aol.com/search?query=employment_agencies&ncid=eml
cntusye
lp00000003> an employment agency near you.
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: new bush gear |
Oh, yeah, this was the one with the gear supposedly in the wrong
place....and looks like it still is. I wonder just how big that
battery is in the tail?
And how would going to this gear without changing locations....if
indeed it IS in the wrong location...change things?
Lynn Matteson
Kitfox IV Speedster, taildragger
Jabiru 2200, #2062, 605 hrs
Sensenich 62x46
Electroair direct-fire ignition system
New skis done and flying
do not archive
On Feb 20, 2009, at 4:59 PM, Noel Loveys wrote:
> Ok! now how did it weigh in any big changes in bal?
>
>
> Noel
>
>
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: new bush gear |
Lynn, Noel
Here "new" W&B situation!
I had to add 11 lbs on tail
DATUM = Leading Edge of Wing Root
EMPTY WEIGHT CG
Weighing PointWht. (Lbs.)Arm, (in.)Moment
Left Main, (- tare)421,634,121737,13
Right Main (- tare)417,224,121718,94
Tail Wheel (+ tare)44,15151,806701,99
Nose Wheel (-tare)0,000,000,00
TOTALS883,00 ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^10158,06
MOM. / WEIGHT = EMPTY WEIGHT CG, (in.) =11,50
If you want, I could send W&B xls spreadsheet complete.
FD
www.dcubj3.com.br
De:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
Para:kitfox-list@matronics.com
C=F3pia:
Data:Fri, 20 Feb 2009 18:32:00 -0500
Assunto:Re: Kitfox-List: new bush gear
>
> Oh, yeah, this was the one with the gear supposedly in the wrong
> place....and looks like it still is. I wonder just how big that
> battery is in the tail?
> And how would going to this gear without changing locations....if
> indeed it IS in the wrong location...change things?
>
> Lynn Matteson
> Kitfox IV Speedster, taildragger
> Jabiru 2200, #2062, 605 hrs
> Sensenich 62x46
> Electroair direct-fire ignition system
> New skis done and flying
> do not archive
>
>
>
> On Feb 20, 2009, at 4:59 PM, Noel Loveys wrote:
>
> > Ok! now how did it weigh in any big changes in bal?
> >
> >
> >
> > Noel
> >
> >
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
>
Message 27
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| Subject: | Death of Dr. robert Jones son Michael |
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: Seasonal change reminder |
On Fri, February 20, 2009 9:47 am, Jim Crowder wrote:
>
> Lynn,
> How do you know if it is too high without loosening first?
In his example, if the 5/16ths doesn't move checking to 160 in-lbs, it is either
too
tight or ok. You have to have a priori knowledge to make the decision.
You wouldn't loosen and re tighten bolts holding a wood prop, for example. You'd
only
check torque setting is at the minimum of the range.
On other bolts if the allowable range were say 130 to 160, you can check until
they
move first time tightening to 130, check until they break loose but don't go over
160.
If you have or for some reason the nut or bolt is binding, loosen and lubricate
and
retighten. Except in the case of wood props, don't loosen and retighten.
Wet loctite is a lubricant but after it sets up, the break loose torque isn't a
good
measure of strain in tension on the bolt. (strain in the engineering sense in/in).
There are two considerations made when specifying torque. One is to achieve the
desired shear strength between layers of stuff bolted together and the other is
to
protect the bolt by not exceeding it's allowable tensile load which is mostly
determined by material properties of the bolt which are coded into the bolt cap
with
marks. Some could have allowable tensile loads as high as 280ksi.
--
Paul A. Franz
Registration/Aircraft - N14UW/Merlin GT
Engine/Prop - Rotax 914/NSI CAP
Bellevue WA
425.241.1618 Cell
Message 29
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| Subject: | Re: Death of Dr. robert Jones son Michael |
On Fri, February 20, 2009 7:50 pm, Bob Jones wrote:
> ... no text at all .... Obit in Word.doc format was attached
Bob - are we to assume Mikee was your son?
I'm very sorry to hear of his early demise. Losing a son is certainly a great life
tragedy.
--
Paul A. Franz
Registration/Aircraft - N14UW/Merlin GT
Engine/Prop - Rotax 914/NSI CAP
Bellevue WA
425.241.1618 Cell
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