Kitfox-List Digest Archive

Mon 02/23/09


Total Messages Posted: 23



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 12:09 AM - Re: Re: New issue, turtle deck security (Guy Buchanan)
     2. 05:17 AM - Re: new bush landing gearnew bush landing gear (Catz631@aol.com)
     3. 05:38 AM - Re: new bush gear (Catz631@aol.com)
     4. 05:52 AM - Re: Re: New issue, turtle deck security (Lynn Matteson)
     5. 06:46 AM - After market parts (Tom Jones)
     6. 07:21 AM - Re: New issue, turtle deck security (Tom Jones)
     7. 08:29 AM - Re: Re: New issue, turtle deck security (Guy Buchanan)
     8. 08:51 AM - Re: Re: New issue, turtle deck security ()
     9. 09:35 AM - Re: Re: New issue, turtle deck security (Lynn Matteson)
    10. 09:55 AM - Re: Re: New issue, turtle deck security ()
    11. 11:57 AM - Video link ski flying (akflyer)
    12. 01:04 PM - Floating Nut Plates (Paul Franz - Merlin GT)
    13. 02:06 PM - Re: Floating Nut Plates (Guy Buchanan)
    14. 02:07 PM - Re: Re: Aerocet 1100 Anphib installation instructions and dwgs (Michael Laundy)
    15. 03:30 PM - Flight test of "bush" gear (Catz631@aol.com)
    16. 04:21 PM - Re: Flight test of "bush" gear (patrick reilly)
    17. 04:51 PM - Re: Re: Greenhouse construction (patrick reilly)
    18. 05:24 PM - Re: new bush gear (patrick reilly)
    19. 05:30 PM - Re: Greenhouse construction (Lowlead)
    20. 06:24 PM - Re: Video link ski flying (Tom Jones)
    21. 07:32 PM - measurement needed for Kitfox 4 (Jim_and_Lucy Chuk)
    22. 08:10 PM - Kitfox 4 measurment (Jim_and_Lucy Chuk)
    23. 08:35 PM - Re: Re: New issue, turtle deck security (Noel Loveys)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 12:09:08 AM PST US
    From: Guy Buchanan <bnn@nethere.com>
    Subject: Re: New issue, turtle deck security
    At 10:18 AM 2/20/2009, you wrote: >I'm just a shade-tree mechanic working with a Mac, so maybe I need >help....no further comment on that comment is required. : ) Sorry Lynn. I was in a bit of a rush. My house is in some disarray as we move the kid's rooms around so I couldn't find my Cherry catalogue. Some digging revealed the following: CCR 264 SS -3 -3 is a Cherry Nut Plate Rivet. The codes mean the following: -3 = Grip Length (maximum grip in 1/16 inch increments) -3 = Diameter Dash Number (in 1/32 inch increments) SS - Material Code (in this case 1018 steel) 264 - Head Style (in this case 100 degree flush head) CCR - Cherry's Basic Part Number (Inch) My source is: http://www.cherryaerospace.com/files/pdf/catalog/CA-1036.pdf So the rivets I referenced were all steel 100 degree flathead 3/32 diameter pops in various lengths. Guy Buchanan San Diego, CA K-IV 1200 / 582-C / Warp / 100% done, thanks mostly to Bob Ducar.


    Message 2


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    Time: 05:17:13 AM PST US
    From: Catz631@aol.com
    Subject: Re: new bush landing gearnew bush landing gear
    If anyone has a question on this gear please give me a call at : 850-994-9527 (hanger) or 850-304-7371 (cell) I will be happy to talk with you as there are a lot of questions coming thru and my fingers are getting sore from typing. Suffice it to say I am absolutely ecstatic about this gear and the different appearance of the aircraft. I have had most of the people at the airport look at it and they have all said that it greatly improves the look of the aircraft. Of course the "proof of the pudding" will be how it handles. The wind should be more presentable today so I will be able to fly. I will give You'all (southern talk) a flight report. Dick Maddux Pensacola,Fl **************Get a jump start on your taxes. Find a tax professional in your neighborhood today. (http://yellowpages.aol.com/search?query=Tax+Return+Preparation+%26+Filing&ncid=emlcntusyelp00000004)


    Message 3


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    Time: 05:38:45 AM PST US
    From: Catz631@aol.com
    Subject: Re: new bush gear
    Paul, The humidity is running about 40% and temp in the 60's.I have been able to paint fine with spray cans but cannot get close enough to the Arctic Blue color for my gear fairings so I have tried the Poly Tone.The enamel in the spray cans lays fine. I am just going to "bite the bullet" and order the Arctic Blue enamal from Spruce and get on with it.I will probably use the extra paint for some other thing I need to paint. Thanks for your suggestion Dick Maddux Pensacola,Fl **************Get a jump start on your taxes. Find a tax professional in your neighborhood today. (http://yellowpages.aol.com/search?query=Tax+Return+Preparation+%26+Filing&ncid=emlcntusyelp00000004)


    Message 4


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    Time: 05:52:22 AM PST US
    From: Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt@jps.net>
    Subject: Re: New issue, turtle deck security
    Thanks for the followup, Guy. That site you mentioned for the Cherry Rivets is a treasure trove of info about rivets, and a code-breakers bible. : ) Now all we need is to find a supplier who is just a bit lower in standards than Cherry, and will supply an aluminum rivet with steel mandrel, in various lengths. By the way, it's important to remember that the first "3" in the code is diameter, and the second "3" (in your example) is length. Nice to see that if a person was willing to use the steel-steel (material code SS) that those ARE available in a 5/16" length and shorter. Maybe I'm being too anal in thinking that an all-steel rivet is too strong to use when the base material is wood. Although in the case of the wing rib cap strips, that wood is pretty tough stuff, and would probably handle steel rivets, but I still stand by my caution to not use stainless-stainless rivets, as I feel these are just too strong for the wood environment. The installation of SS rivets in my firewall... 30-some altogether?...was enough to convince me that those things are strong! Lynn Matteson Kitfox IV Speedster, taildragger Jabiru 2200, #2062, 605 hrs Sensenich 62x46 Electroair direct-fire ignition system Status: flying On Feb 22, 2009, at 11:44 PM, Guy Buchanan wrote: > At 10:18 AM 2/20/2009, you wrote: >> I'm just a shade-tree mechanic working with a Mac, so maybe I need >> help....no further comment on that comment is required. : ) > > Sorry Lynn. I was in a bit of a rush. My house is in some disarray > as we move the kid's rooms around so I couldn't find my Cherry > catalogue. Some digging revealed the following: > > CCR 264 SS -3 -3 is a Cherry Nut Plate Rivet. The codes mean the > following: > > -3 = Grip Length (maximum grip in 1/16 inch increments) > -3 = Diameter Dash Number (in 1/32 inch increments) > SS - Material Code (in this case 1018 steel) > 264 - Head Style (in this case 100 degree flush head) > CCR - Cherry's Basic Part Number (Inch) > > My source is: http://www.cherryaerospace.com/files/pdf/catalog/ > CA-1036.pdf > > So the rivets I referenced were all steel 100 degree flathead 3/32 > diameter pops in various lengths. > > Guy Buchanan > San Diego, CA > K-IV 1200 / 582-C / Warp / 100% done, thanks mostly to Bob Ducar. > > www.matronics.com/contribution _- > ===========================================================


    Message 5


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    Time: 06:46:19 AM PST US
    Subject: After market parts
    From: "Tom Jones" <nahsikhs@elltel.net>
    WurlyBird asked: > Alright, I am curious enough and like to know what aftermarket parts are available for my toy so I will ask. I checked the website and saw some cool stuff but I did not see the gear, so how much did it cost? I definitely plan on going "off roading" so bigger, sturdier gear would be nice. Here's a direct link to the Kitfox catalog. The Bush Gear is on page 35. http://www.kitfoxaircraft.com/Product_Catalog/KApartscat-rev020309.pdf -------- Tom Jones Classic IV 503 Rotax, 72 inch Two blade Warp Ellensburg, WA Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231645#231645


    Message 6


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    Time: 07:21:51 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: New issue, turtle deck security
    From: "Tom Jones" <nahsikhs@elltel.net>
    Lynn Mattison wrote, > The installation of SS rivets in my firewall... > 30-some altogether?...was enough to convince me that those things are > strong! Not to mention the wings, 324 stainless rivets in each wing. That brings back memories of tired hands. do not archive. -------- Tom Jones Classic IV 503 Rotax, 72 inch Two blade Warp Ellensburg, WA Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231647#231647


    Message 7


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    Time: 08:29:44 AM PST US
    From: Guy Buchanan <bnn@nethere.com>
    Subject: Re: New issue, turtle deck security
    At 05:51 AM 2/23/2009, you wrote: >Maybe I'm >being too anal in thinking that an all-steel rivet is too strong to >use when the base material is wood. Although in the case of the wing >rib cap strips, that wood is pretty tough stuff, and would probably >handle steel rivets, but I still stand by my caution to not use >stainless-stainless rivets, as I feel these are just too strong for >the wood environment. I used them to attach my floating nut plates that hold my skylight to the butt rib cap strip. They are countersunk into the wood and went in with no problem, with not even a hint of stress to the wood. Though they are steel they are nothing like stainless pops you might be used to; they're very easy to install. (After all, they're only 3/32 OD.) Guy Buchanan San Diego, CA K-IV 1200 / 582-C / Warp / 100% done, thanks mostly to Bob Ducar.


    Message 8


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    Time: 08:51:43 AM PST US
    From: <l.morris@tx.rr.com>
    Subject: Re: New issue, turtle deck security
    O.K., let me get this straight, you need a locking nut on a anchor? I thought an anhcor nut was a locking nut. That's all that holding my wing tips on, just anchor nuts and screws. Leon Morris/Classic 4 Sptr/65%/ Flower Mound,TX ---- Tom Jones <nahsikhs@elltel.net> wrote: > > > > Okay, here is a few things I am hearing; solid rivets are easy to use, you do not need anchor nuts with nylon lock inserts, you do not need a screw every 2" as with the rivets. Is this all accurate for what everyone here is saying. > > > You need a locking nut on the anchor so you don't have to tighten the screws too tight against the skylight. Stick with a screw every two inches. > > -------- > Tom Jones > Classic IV > 503 Rotax, 72 inch Two blade Warp > Ellensburg, WA > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231207#231207 > > > > > > > > > >


    Message 9


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    Time: 09:35:45 AM PST US
    From: Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt@jps.net>
    Subject: Re: New issue, turtle deck security
    I think what Tom meant is that you need the anchor nut to have a self- locking feature, such as the "squeezed nut" in the all-metal anchor nuts, K1000, MK1000, K2000, MK2000, or K3000, or the elastic-insert locking device as in the AN366F, NA17, or NA5's as seen in the Spruce catalog. Lynn Matteson Kitfox IV Speedster, taildragger Jabiru 2200, #2062, 605 hrs Sensenich 62x46 Electroair direct-fire ignition system Status: flying On Feb 23, 2009, at 11:50 AM, <l.morris@tx.rr.com> wrote: > > O.K., let me get this straight, you need a locking nut on a > anchor? I thought an anhcor nut was a locking nut. That's all that > holding my wing tips on, just anchor nuts and screws. Leon > Morris/Classic 4 Sptr/65%/ Flower Mound,TX > ---- Tom Jones <nahsikhs@elltel.net> wrote: >> >> >>> Okay, here is a few things I am hearing; solid rivets are easy to >>> use, you do not need anchor nuts with nylon lock inserts, you do >>> not need a screw every 2" as with the rivets. Is this all >>> accurate for what everyone here is saying. >> >> >> You need a locking nut on the anchor so you don't have to tighten >> the screws too tight against the skylight. Stick with a screw >> every two inches. >> >> -------- >> Tom Jones >> Classic IV >> 503 Rotax, 72 inch Two blade Warp >> Ellensburg, WA >> >> >> >> >> Read this topic online here: >> >> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231207#231207 >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > >


    Message 10


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    Time: 09:55:22 AM PST US
    From: <l.morris@tx.rr.com>
    Subject: Re: New issue, turtle deck security
    OK Lynn, that sounds better and makes sense to me now-- Leon ---- Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt@jps.net> wrote: > > I think what Tom meant is that you need the anchor nut to have a self- > locking feature, such as the "squeezed nut" in the all-metal anchor > nuts, K1000, MK1000, K2000, MK2000, or K3000, or the elastic-insert > locking device as in the AN366F, NA17, or NA5's as seen in the Spruce > catalog. > > Lynn Matteson > Kitfox IV Speedster, taildragger > Jabiru 2200, #2062, 605 hrs > Sensenich 62x46 > Electroair direct-fire ignition system > Status: flying > > > > > On Feb 23, 2009, at 11:50 AM, <l.morris@tx.rr.com> wrote: > > > > > O.K., let me get this straight, you need a locking nut on a > > anchor? I thought an anhcor nut was a locking nut. That's all that > > holding my wing tips on, just anchor nuts and screws. Leon > > Morris/Classic 4 Sptr/65%/ Flower Mound,TX > > ---- Tom Jones <nahsikhs@elltel.net> wrote: > >> > >> > >>> Okay, here is a few things I am hearing; solid rivets are easy to > >>> use, you do not need anchor nuts with nylon lock inserts, you do > >>> not need a screw every 2" as with the rivets. Is this all > >>> accurate for what everyone here is saying. > >> > >> > >> You need a locking nut on the anchor so you don't have to tighten > >> the screws too tight against the skylight. Stick with a screw > >> every two inches. > >> > >> -------- > >> Tom Jones > >> Classic IV > >> 503 Rotax, 72 inch Two blade Warp > >> Ellensburg, WA > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> Read this topic online here: > >> > >> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231207#231207 > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > > > > > > > > > > > > > > >


    Message 11


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    Time: 11:57:55 AM PST US
    Subject: Video link ski flying
    From: "akflyer" <akflyer_2000@yahoo.com>
    Quick vid of us out playing in the snow yesterday. One of those blue bird days you could see forever... too bad we cant carry an unlimited supply of fuel, was a bummer to have to quit flying just cause your low on fuel. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D_4j78rP35Y -------- DO NOT ARCHIVE Leonard Perry aka SNAKE Soldotna AK Avid &quot;C&quot; / Mk IV 582 IVO IFA Full Lotus 1260 #1 snake oil salesman since 1-22-2009 hander outer of humorless darwin awards Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231682#231682


    Message 12


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    Time: 01:04:32 PM PST US
    Subject: Floating Nut Plates
    From: "Paul Franz - Merlin GT" <paul@eucleides.com>
    On Mon, February 23, 2009 8:24 am, Guy Buchanan wrote: > I used them to attach my floating nut plates that hold my skylight to > the butt rib cap strip. They are countersunk into the wood and went > in with no problem, with not even a hint of stress to the wood. > Though they are steel they are nothing like stainless pops you might > be used to; they're very easy to install. (After all, they're only 3/32 OD.) You mentioned them before. Just what exactly is a "floating nut plate"? -- Paul A. Franz Registration/Aircraft - N14UW/Merlin GT Engine/Prop - Rotax 914/NSI CAP Bellevue WA 425.241.1618 Cell


    Message 13


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    Time: 02:06:16 PM PST US
    From: Guy Buchanan <bnn@nethere.com>
    Subject: Re: Floating Nut Plates
    At 12:57 PM 2/23/2009, you wrote: >You mentioned them before. Just what exactly is a "floating nut plate"? Some nut plates have a thread rigidly attached: either the plate is threaded, or a nut is welded on, or perhaps a regular nut is "crimped" in place. Floating nut plates have a receptacle in the plate that is larger than the nut so the nut can "float" around. This means it's OK if you miss a little when attaching the nut plate (easy to do). As a WAG I'd say the #6's I used in the skylight had about +/- .02" of movement to the nut. The nut is restrained enough to limit rotation. Guy Buchanan San Diego, CA K-IV 1200 / 582-C / Warp / 300 hrs. and counting


    Message 14


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    Time: 02:07:26 PM PST US
    From: Michael Laundy <mikelaundy@yahoo.co.uk>
    Subject: Re: Aerocet 1100 Anphib installation instructions and
    dwgs Thanks Paul, I have the instructions and drawings now downloaded to my computer. Cheers Mike Mike Laundy Kitfox 3- G-BWSN Rotax 582 Cornwall UK --- On Sun, 22/2/09, Paul A. Franz, P.E. <paul@eucleides.com> wrote: From: Paul A. Franz, P.E. <paul@eucleides.com> Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: Aerocet 1100 Anphib installation instructions and dwgs <paul@eucleides.com> [quote="mikelaundy(at)yahoo.co.uk"]Gary, > Do you still have the instructions on your web site, I was unable to access it. You have to be able to deal with ActiveX on his site. It is easier for me t o just post those three files here than coach you through enabling ActiveX controls. So the three files are here (pay attention to the links below). -------- Paul A. Franz, P.E. Registration/Aircraft - N14UW/Merlin GT Engine/Prop - Rotax 914/NSI CAP Bellevue WA 425.241.1618 Cell 425.440.9505 Office Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231560#231560 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/anphib_float_install_476.pdf http://forums.matronics.com//files/straight_float_install_268.pdf http://forums.matronics.com//files/aerocet1100_assembly_dwg_761.pdf =0A=0A=0A


    Message 15


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    Time: 03:30:40 PM PST US
    From: Catz631@aol.com
    Subject: Flight test of "bush" gear
    The weather finally cooperated a little. I was finally able to taxi and fly the aircraft with the new gear. The first thing I noticed while taxing on my grass strip was how easy the aircraft was to turn! With the old standard gear I had to make large turns as the tailwheel would unlock and I would have a devil of a time getting the aircraft straight (read lot's of power). Now it takes just a tap on the brake and it turns.Much,Much better! The aircraft is now more sensitive in turns but with the tailwheel steering it is a "piece of cake" Next I took off and shot a couple of landings. The aircraft behaved beautifully on touchdown with no tendency to wander. It is more sensitive but the rudder takes care of that easily. I next took it to our local paved strip airport to have some ogling over my new gear (I got plenty) As suspected the pavement required a little more rudder work but nothing out of the ordinary. Some other things were profound also. It appeared to be more stable on approach. I suspect the wheels being further out are acting like outriggers on a canoe. It is definitely more stable even in the strong winds we were having today. I seem to have lost about 3-4 mph indicated airspeed at cruise. I suspect the fairing installation will give me some of that back. In any case I don't really care as the aircraft handles SOOOO much better on the ground. It even appeared to assume a 3 point attitude during the flare much easier than before (maybe the 4 lb loss in weight with the "bush gear ?) This is one of the best investments I have put into this aircraft. Not only does it make the aircraft look better it is a tremendous improvement in ground handling! Dick Maddux Fox 4-1200 Pensacola,Fl **************Get a jump start on your taxes. Find a tax professional in your neighborhood today. (http://yellowpages.aol.com/search?query=Tax+Return+Preparation+%26+Filing&ncid=emlcntusyelp00000004)


    Message 16


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    Time: 04:21:55 PM PST US
    From: patrick reilly <patreilly43@hotmail.com>
    Subject: Flight test of "bush" gear
    Dick=2C Damn=2C I just replaced the landing gear that was knocked out from under the plane when hit by a car on a trailer. Now you tell me! Anyway Tha nks for the report. Glad to hear your installation was a success. You used Lowell's rig didn't you? do not archive Pat Reilly Mod 3 582 Rebuild Rockford=2C IL From: Catz631@aol.com Subject: Kitfox-List: Flight test of "bush" gear The weather finally cooperated a little. I was finally able to taxi and fly the aircraft with the new gear. The first thing I noticed while taxing on my grass strip was how easy the aircraft was to turn! With the old standard gear I had to make large turns as the tailwheel would unlock and I would have a devil of a time getting th e aircraft straight (read lot's of power). Now it takes just a tap on the b rake and it turns.Much=2CMuch better! The aircraft is now more sensitive in turns but with the tailwheel steerin g it is a "piece of cake" Next I took off and shot a couple of landings. The aircraft behaved beaut ifully on touchdown with no tendency to wander. It is more sensitive but th e rudder takes care of that easily. I next took it to our local paved strip airport to have some ogling over my new gear (I got plenty) As suspected the pavement required a little more rudder work but nothing out of the ordinary. Some other things were profound also. It appeared to be more stable on app roach. I suspect the wheels being further out are acting like outriggers on a canoe. It is definitely more stable even in the strong winds we were hav ing today. I seem to have lost about 3-4 mph indicated airspeed at cruise. I suspect the fairing installation will give me some of that back. In any case I don' t really care as the aircraft handles SOOOO much better on the ground. It e ven appeared to assume a 3 point attitude during the flare much easier than before (maybe the 4 lb loss in weight with the "bush gear ?) This is one of the best investments I have put into this aircraft. Not on ly does it make the aircraft look better it is a tremendous improvement in ground handling! Dick Maddux Fox 4-1200 Pensacola=2CFl Get a jump start on your taxes. Find a tax professional in your neighborhoo d today.


    Message 17


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    Time: 04:51:22 PM PST US
    From: patrick reilly <patreilly43@hotmail.com>
    Subject: Re: Greenhouse construction
    Guy=2C Thanks for info. I cut the fabric out to match the holes in the ribs . I should have access room now. The only problem is the width of the top of the rib that the rivet passes through is very narrow. I don't think I ca n get a backing waser on a rivet. I may leave 1/2 of the rivets and replace every other rivet with a #8 screw and a nylock nut. Pat Reilly Mod 3 582 Rebuild Rockford=2C IL > Date: Sun=2C 22 Feb 2009 18:42:36 -0800 > To: kitfox-list@matronics.com > From: bnn@nethere.com > Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Re: Greenhouse construction > > > At 10:39 PM 2/19/2009=2C you wrote: > >Guy=2C There is fabric both sides of the butt rib. However the > >original builder put portholes in the fabric similar to inspection > >holes. You can see in.But=2C Not enough access to work in there. I > >will have to do a little surgical work on the fabric. > > Pat=2C > That sounds like a clean installation=3B but what a problem > for you. Can't say as I see a way around it. Actually there is ONE > trick I learned from my years as a yacht designer. I have=2C at times=2C > spaced floating nut plates along long pieces of non-structural > material and slid them into holes as backing plates for deck > structure. You might be able to do the same if you could find the > right access. That way you might be able to cut small holes and still > get nut plates in. > > > Guy Buchanan > San Diego=2C CA > K-IV 1200 / 582-C / Warp / 100% done=2C thanks mostly to Bob Ducar. > > =========== =========== =========== =========== > > >


    Message 18


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    Time: 05:24:32 PM PST US
    From: patrick reilly <patreilly43@hotmail.com>
    Subject: new bush gear
    Deke=2C And=2C now I'm considering tearing off the brand new landing gear I installed and installing Lowell's bush landing gear=2C especially after Di ck's report. These damn airplanes are worse than streetrods and motorcycles . Old cars are fun=2C motorcycles are crazy=2C and airplanes they are reser ved for the insane! do not archive Pat Reilly Mod 3 582 Rebuild Rockford=2C IL From: fox5flyer@idealwifi.net Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: new bush gear Patrick=2C at 25% you're probably doing as well as anyone here. The real d own side is that a part of the 25% is also weight. So it goes... do not archive Deke Morisse Mikado Michigan S5/Subaru/CAP 402+ TT "The aim of an argument or discussion should not be victory=2C but progress ." - Joseph Joubert ----- Original Message ----- From: patrick reilly Sent: Saturday=2C February 21=2C 2009 3:05 PM Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: new bush gear Lynn=2C Thanks for info. Just ordered mine from Matco on the internet. $38 for the kit. It includes line and hardware to install. I think the modifica tions on my plane will make the damn think worth 25% more than any other 58 2 KF Mod 3's the way it stands now. do not archive Pat Reilly Mod 3 582 Rebuild Rockford=2C IL > From: lynnmatt@jps.net > Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: new bush gear > Date: Sat=2C 21 Feb 2009 12:50:56 -0500 > To: kitfox-list@matronics.com > > > I got mine from the Matco booth at Oshkosh....about $25-35 as I > recall. You CAN check the fluid level=2C but it's harder than just > looking. I use the 3/16" (I think) allen wrench that removes the top > plug. I wrap a short length of tape around the wrench at the > 1/2" (from the top) mark...you could also grind a suitable mark on > the wrench to indicate the proper level. > In response to someone who said it's hard to tell when you are going > to overflow the reservoir during bleeding=2C I counted the pumps that > it took (during bleeding) to get from empty to near the top of > reservoir=2C and kept checking. When I finally had a number of strokes > it took to get close=2C I would always stop just sort of this number=2C > and then suck out all the fluid and begin pressure-bleeding again > until the lines were full. When full and brakes firm=2C add enough > fluid to 1/2" mark and close it up. Never a drop of spillage=2C but > certainly the clear reservoir would make life a lot simpler. > > Lynn Matteson > Kitfox IV Speedster=2C taildragger > Jabiru 2200=2C #2062=2C 605 hrs > Sensenich 62x46 > Electroair direct-fire ignition system > New skis off last week...5 minutes=2C and probably back on this week... > 10 minutes=2C as it's snowing right now. > do not archive > > > > On Feb 21=2C 2009=2C at 12:28 PM=2C patrick reilly wrote: > > > Lynn And Dick=2C Where do you get the visable reservoir? I thought it > > was odd that you can't check brake fluid level on the stock system. > > > > Pat Reilly > > Mod 3 582 Rebuild > > Rockford=2C IL > > > > > > > > > > > From: lynnmatt@jps.net > > > Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: new bush gear > > > Date: Sat=2C 21 Feb 2009 07:04:46 -0500 > > > To: kitfox-list@matronics.com > > > > > > > > > Dick=2C I have no doubt that yours is in the right place...re-read my > > > post. It was in response to Noel=2C who was responding to Francisco =2C > > > whose plane was the subject of much discussion a few weeks back=2C > > when > > > he sent pictures of his plane which looked like he had the gear in > > > the wrong place. > > > In looking at your pictures just now=2C it looks like they no longer > > > put the front float brackets on the fuselage...yours has 3 on each > > > side=2C as does Francisco's=2C while mine has 4. > > > > > > I too have one of those visible reservoirs...I bought it at > > Oshkosh 2 > > > 1/2 years ago....some things just take a little longer to get > > > installed....mine isn't yet! : ) > > > > > > Lynn Matteson > > > Kitfox IV Speedster=2C taildragger > > > Jabiru 2200=2C #2062=2C 605 hrs > > > Sensenich 62x46 > > > Electroair direct-fire ignition system > > > New skis done and flying > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > On Feb 21=2C 2009=2C at 6:16 AM=2C Catz631@aol.com wrote: > > > > > > > Lynn=2C > > > > I assure you my gear is not mounted in the wrong place. The gear > > > > leg is pretty much identical in build and shape to the original > > > > Kitfox leg I took off. The wheel is in the same position it's just > > > > a foot further out toward the wing tip so I have to stretch to put > > > > my foot on it to get in the aircraft. I am a short guy. The gear > > > > weight is just 4 lbs lighter and the spread 2 ft wider. I now have > > > > a 6 ft spread vs the original 4 ft (actually 7 ft if you > > measure to > > > > the outside of the "kingfox" tires) > > > > I am not too worried about weight and balance as the 4 lbs > > > > difference will equal the 4 lbs of stuff I put in the panel! > > > > I am waiting for the polyflow fittings to arrive from Spruce so I > > > > can extend the brake lines. > > > > Yesterday I installed the "visible reservoir" thick plastic brake > > > > fluid reservoir that I obtained a while back. Now I will be > > able to > > > > see how much fluid is in the reservoir. This will be useful when > > > > back bleeding for fill purposes. No more running over the top! > > > > I am having a time painting the gear leg fairings! Call me the > > > > "orange peel" king. I am using Poly Tone and have tried both > > > > methods (primer dry and spraying a mist coat onto drying primer) > > > > nothing seems to work. I might have to break down and order a > > quart > > > > of enamel from Spruce (so expensive for a small amount) I will > > give > > > > it another shot today. > > > > Dick > > > > Maddux > > > > Fox > > > > 4-1200 > > > > Rotax > > > > 912UL > > > > > > > > Pensacola=2CFl > > > > > > > > Need a job? Find an employment agency near you. _- > > > > www.matronics.com/contribution _- > > > > =======> > > > > > > > > ====== > > > href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List">http://www.matronhr ef="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c


    Message 19


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    Time: 05:30:29 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Greenhouse construction
    From: "Lowlead" <j.t.cowie@xoxy.net>
    Why not use rivnuts? ACS & McMaster both carry them. McMaster carries recessed head versions that sit flush to the mounting surface (butt rib). In most cases you don't need access to the backside, maybe install with a little epoxy to keep the rivnut from turning. Grip length may be a little short for the butt rib's capstrip, but one could always counter-bore a little and use the std flat head rivnut. Dan H. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231722#231722


    Message 20


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    Time: 06:24:07 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Video link ski flying
    From: "Tom Jones" <nahsikhs@elltel.net>
    Akflyer wrote: > Quick vid of us out playing in the snow yesterday. One of those blue bird days you could see forever... too bad we cant carry an unlimited supply of fuel, was a bummer to have to quit flying just cause your low on fuel. > > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D_4j78rP35Y Thanks Leonard. We have been fogged in here in Central Washington the past few days so limited to keyboard flying. Kudos to your camera man! -------- Tom Jones Classic IV 503 Rotax, 72 inch Two blade Warp Ellensburg, WA Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231733#231733


    Message 21


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    Time: 07:32:28 PM PST US
    From: Jim_and_Lucy Chuk <thesupe@hotmail.com>
    Subject: measurement needed for Kitfox 4
    Hi all=2C can someone who has a Kitfox 4 with the 912 Rotax measure from th e firewall to the prop shaft over the top of the engine for me and let me k now what the dimention is? I want to check something on mine. You can ema il me at thesupe@hotmail.com if you like so we don't plug up the list. Thanks a lot =2C Jim Chuk Avid MK IV =2C Kitfox 4 building Mn do not archive _________________________________________________________________ Windows Live=99: Discover 10 secrets about the new Windows Live. http://windowslive.com/connect/post/jamiethomson.spaces.live.com-Blog-cns!5 50F681DAD532637!7540.entry?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_t2_ugc_post_022009


    Message 22


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    Time: 08:10:32 PM PST US
    From: Jim_and_Lucy Chuk <thesupe@hotmail.com>
    Subject: Kitfox 4 measurment
    Hi again guys=2C When I asked for the dimention for the Kitfox 4 with 912 rotax=2C I messed up. What I was looking for was the dimention from the fi rewall to the prop flange/back of prop over the top of the engine=2C not pr opshaft like I said. Please email me at thesupe@hotmail.com Thanks a lot=2C Jim Chuk Avid MK IV Kitfox 4 building Mn do not archive _________________________________________________________________ It=92s the same Hotmail=AE. If by =93same=94 you mean up to 70% faster. http://windowslive.com/online/hotmail?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_AE_Same_022009


    Message 23


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    Time: 08:35:29 PM PST US
    From: "Noel Loveys" <noelloveys@yahoo.ca>
    Subject: Re: New issue, turtle deck security
    I'm not sure but aren't the Aviex rivets used by Zenith steel core aluminium rivets? I remember reading somewhere that There is two manufacturing plants and Zenith only buys from one. Noel -----Original Message----- From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lynn Matteson Sent: Monday, February 23, 2009 10:21 AM Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Re: New issue, turtle deck security Thanks for the followup, Guy. That site you mentioned for the Cherry Rivets is a treasure trove of info about rivets, and a code-breakers bible. : ) Now all we need is to find a supplier who is just a bit lower in standards than Cherry, and will supply an aluminum rivet with steel mandrel, in various lengths. By the way, it's important to remember that the first "3" in the code is diameter, and the second "3" (in your example) is length. Nice to see that if a person was willing to use the steel-steel (material code SS) that those ARE available in a 5/16" length and shorter. Maybe I'm being too anal in thinking that an all-steel rivet is too strong to use when the base material is wood. Although in the case of the wing rib cap strips, that wood is pretty tough stuff, and would probably handle steel rivets, but I still stand by my caution to not use stainless-stainless rivets, as I feel these are just too strong for the wood environment. The installation of SS rivets in my firewall... 30-some altogether?...was enough to convince me that those things are strong! Lynn Matteson Kitfox IV Speedster, taildragger Jabiru 2200, #2062, 605 hrs Sensenich 62x46 Electroair direct-fire ignition system Status: flying On Feb 22, 2009, at 11:44 PM, Guy Buchanan wrote: > At 10:18 AM 2/20/2009, you wrote: >> I'm just a shade-tree mechanic working with a Mac, so maybe I need >> help....no further comment on that comment is required. : ) > > Sorry Lynn. I was in a bit of a rush. My house is in some disarray > as we move the kid's rooms around so I couldn't find my Cherry > catalogue. Some digging revealed the following: > > CCR 264 SS -3 -3 is a Cherry Nut Plate Rivet. The codes mean the > following: > > -3 = Grip Length (maximum grip in 1/16 inch increments) > -3 = Diameter Dash Number (in 1/32 inch increments) > SS - Material Code (in this case 1018 steel) > 264 - Head Style (in this case 100 degree flush head) > CCR - Cherry's Basic Part Number (Inch) > > My source is: http://www.cherryaerospace.com/files/pdf/catalog/ > CA-1036.pdf > > So the rivets I referenced were all steel 100 degree flathead 3/32 > diameter pops in various lengths. > > Guy Buchanan > San Diego, CA > K-IV 1200 / 582-C / Warp / 100% done, thanks mostly to Bob Ducar. > > www.matronics.com/contribution _- > ===========================================================




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