Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:58 AM - Re: Brake Lines (Ken Potter)
2. 04:40 AM - Re: Brake Lines (dave)
3. 05:00 AM - Re: Brake Bleeder (dave)
4. 05:07 AM - Re: Updated Web Site (Catz631@aol.com)
5. 05:21 AM - Re: Brake Bleeder (Catz631@aol.com)
6. 05:26 AM - Re: Brake Lines (Ken Potter)
7. 05:58 AM - Re: Re: Updated Web Site (Noel Loveys)
8. 07:04 AM - Re: Installation of a 912S (Les Evarts)
9. 07:14 AM - Toe in (Tom Jones)
10. 07:59 AM - Re: Toe in (Lynn Matteson)
11. 08:02 AM - Re: Brake Bleeder (Paul Franz - Merlin GT)
12. 08:19 AM - Re: Toe in (Larry Huntley)
13. 08:37 AM - Back-issues of "The Kitfox Builder" Newsletter (jjshultz)
14. 09:56 AM - Re: Re: Brake Bleeder (Noel Loveys)
15. 10:05 AM - Re: Toe in (Lynn Matteson)
16. 10:20 AM - Re: Toe in (patrick reilly)
17. 10:26 AM - Re: Re: Brake Bleeder (Lynn Matteson)
18. 10:29 AM - Re: Re: Brake Bleeder (patrick reilly)
19. 10:39 AM - Re: Toe in (patrick reilly)
20. 10:53 AM - Re: Brake Bleeder (patrick reilly)
21. 11:04 AM - Re: Updated Web Site (patrick reilly)
22. 11:04 AM - Re: Re: Brake Bleeder (Lynn Matteson)
23. 11:09 AM - Re: Re: Brake Lines (Noel Loveys)
24. 11:28 AM - Tool Kit (fox5flyer)
25. 11:32 AM - Re: Re: King Fox Tire Production Run - Pre Order NOW (patrick reilly)
26. 11:33 AM - Re: Re: Brake Bleeder (fox5flyer)
27. 11:34 AM - Re: Toe in (Lynn Matteson)
28. 11:40 AM - Fw: Re: Brake Bleeder (fox5flyer)
29. 12:30 PM - Re: Sight guages (FlyboyTR)
30. 12:51 PM - Re: Sun 'n' Fun....Paradise City (FlyboyTR)
31. 01:04 PM - Optical Low Fuel Sensor (Mark Napier (napierm))
32. 01:18 PM - Re: Re: Sight guages (fox5flyer)
33. 01:44 PM - Re: Sight guages (FlyboyTR)
34. 02:28 PM - Re: Tool Kit (skyflyte@comcast.net)
35. 02:32 PM - Re: Toe in (patrick reilly)
36. 03:07 PM - Re: Tool Kit (fox5flyer)
37. 03:48 PM - Re: Tool Kit (Cudnohufsky's)
38. 04:07 PM - Re: Tool Kit (patrick reilly)
39. 04:18 PM - Re: Back-issues of "The Kitfox Builder" Newsletter (Tom Jones)
40. 04:18 PM - Re: Re: Brake Bleeder (Lynn Matteson)
41. 04:24 PM - Re: Re: Sun 'n' Fun....Paradise City (Lynn Matteson)
42. 04:29 PM - Re: Brake Bleeding w/helper (Paul Franz - Merlin GT)
43. 04:36 PM - Re: Re: King Fox Tire Production Run - Pre Order NOW (Lowell Fitt)
44. 04:39 PM - Re: Tool Kit (Lynn Matteson)
45. 04:43 PM - Re: Re: Sight guages (Lynn Matteson)
46. 04:51 PM - Re: Re: King Fox Tire Production Run - Pre Order NOW (patrick reilly)
47. 05:17 PM - Re: Tool Kit (Paul Franz - Merlin GT)
48. 05:47 PM - Re: Tool Kit (Lowell Fitt)
49. 05:58 PM - Re: Re: Sun 'n' Fun....Paradise City (Aerobatics@aol.com)
50. 06:01 PM - Re: Re: Sun 'n' Fun....Paradise City (Malcolm Brubaker)
51. 06:02 PM - Re: Sight guages (FlyboyTR)
52. 06:09 PM - Re: Sun 'n' Fun....Paradise City (FlyboyTR)
53. 06:19 PM - Re: Tool Kit (Lowell Fitt)
54. 07:16 PM - Re: Re: Sun 'n' Fun....Paradise City (Lynn Matteson)
55. 07:19 PM - Re: Re: Sun 'n' Fun....Paradise City (Lynn Matteson)
56. 07:25 PM - Re: Toe in (floran higgins)
57. 09:57 PM - Re: Re: Sun 'n' Fun....Paradise City (Lowell Fitt)
Message 1
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Thanks everyone for the advice. They seem flexible still but I think I'll replace
them anyways.
Dave, I decided for now that I'll go with the 3 blade ground adjustable GSC which
came with the kit. The mechanical in-flight-adjustable still intrigues me
but I fear that it would add an extra level of complexity while I fly off my
hours later this summer.
Cheers
Ken
--------
Ken Potter
Model II, No. 483
Rotax 582, C-Box,
98% Complete
C-FJKP (marks reserved)
Lanark, Ontario
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=240056#240056
Message 2
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Ken,
You will need new fittings like these
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/polyflofittings.php
The top one is likely what you will need, I don't see the inner sleeve in the
pic
Wicks shows it better
http://www.wicksaircraft.com/catalog/product_cat.php/subid=8801/index.html
http://www.wicksaircraft.com/catalog/product_cat.php/subid=8863/index.html
and here is the sleeve.
http://www.wicksaircraft.com/catalog/product_cat.php/subid=8802/index.html
I have seen fitting used without sleeves and might work ok.
Don;'t use pluming fittings. They don;t seal that well.
Dave
PS GSC prop should work fine.
I have a inflight adjust flight in stock with Warp blades with SS leading edges.
I might try ti on my Kitfox this year if i get around to it unless it sells
first .
--------
Rotax Dealer, Ontario Canada
http://www.cfisher.com/
Awesome *New Forum *
http://rotaxaircraft.com/forum/
Realtime Kitfox movies to separate the internet chatter from the truth
http://www.youtube.com/profile_videos?user=kitfoxflyer
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=240061#240061
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Brake Bleeder |
Oh , how lovely a personal attack on a poster? Or is that a arrogant opinion?
LOL
Lynn Matteson wrote:
> So as not to display the arrogance of another responder, James, I'll
> just say that all the bleeders I've dealt with over the years have
> been automotive, and all have been on the top of the individual wheel
> cylinders, because air rises. When the brake pedal is depressed, the
> fluid and any air contained therein will travel out to the wheel
> cylinders, where the air will rise to the top where it can be bled
> off. Other brake systems may use a different scenario, Kitfox
> included, but it is safe to say that the bleeder is not on the bottom
> "for all brake systems."
>
> Lynn Matteson
> Kitfox IV Speedster, taildragger
> Jabiru 2200, #2062, 628.1 hrs
> Sensenich 62x46
> Electroair direct-fire ignition system
> Status: flying
> do not archive
>
>
>
> On Apr 18, 2009, at 8:39 PM, WurlyBird wrote:
>
>
> >
> >
> >
> > The bleeder for all brake systems is on the bottom. A vacuum
> > system simply hooks to the bleeder and creates a vacuum and pulls
> > all the fluid AND AIR out through the bottom. So all you have to
> > do is create a vacuum and then make sure you keep the reservoir
> > full and voila, nice fresh fluid, no bubbles.
> >
> > --------
> > James
> > Kitfox 3 / 582 / GSC prop
> > Soloed the Kitfox yesterday!!!
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 39987#239987
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
--------
Rotax Dealer, Ontario Canada
http://www.cfisher.com/
Awesome *New Forum *
http://rotaxaircraft.com/forum/
Realtime Kitfox movies to separate the internet chatter from the truth
http://www.youtube.com/profile_videos?user=kitfoxflyer
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=240063#240063
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Updated Web Site |
Dave,
When I received the "bush gear" and fairings from Lowell I removed all
the parts (nuts and bolts included) from the box and weighed them on my
electronic postal scales that could weigh up to 400 lbs.
I then removed the original gear off the aircraft which was equipped with
the paint, fabric and the plastic gear fairings and weighed both gear legs
before I installed the new gear as I wanted to see the difference.
As mentioned earlier the bush gear complete (without paint) was almost 4
lbs lighter. I couldn't believe it so I got a 10 lb weight lifting weight and
put it on the scale to verify it's accuracy. It weighed 10 lbs. Then a 20.
It weighed 19.9. Then yesterday I weighed the shipping box with the old
original gear (I just sold the gear on EBAY) on the same scales and it weighed
23.7 lbs (box and packing,etc.) . I took it to UPS they weighed it on their
scales and it was 23.5 lbs.
Lowell has told me that he is using an electronic fish scale so we are
using too different types of scales (which shouldn't make any difference)
In any event I think we are splitting hairs here as I can make up the
difference in one good meal!
The bottom line is that this is one fantastic gear that looks good and
makes the aircraft ground handle like a dream! Good three point landings are a
natural with good positive airflow over the elevator due to what I think is
movement of the fat wheels further from the center line of the aircraft.
I don't have any experience landing in the real rough as you do Dave and I
probably never will unless my engine "gives up the ghost" but it does just
fine on my grass field and pavement at the local airport. I think I have
about 20-25 landings on it now.
Dick Maddux
Fox 4-1200
Pensacola,Fl
**************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy
steps!
hmpgID%3D62%26bcd%3DAprilfooter419NO62)
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Brake Bleeder |
Say one other thing to this brake bleeder business. You can buy a "visible"
brake fluid reservoir. This makes it real easy to watch the "back bleeding
"action as you fill your brake lines. You just follow the bubbles thru your
visible line up into the visible reservoir into your visible airplane. No
over filling mess!
I did this on my aircraft and it sure makes it nice. You just take a peek
at the reservoir and you know how much fluid you have. No more dipping tooth
picks,etc into the reservoir to measure the quantity.
Dick Maddux
Pensacola,Fl
**************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy
steps!
hmpgID%3D62%26bcd%3DAprilfooter419NO62)
Message 6
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Thanks Dave;
You mentioned the prop a few months ago in another string. If you still have it
once I've flown off my hours (later this year or early next) I may be interested
in it.
Cheers
Ken
--------
Ken Potter
Model II, No. 483
Rotax 582, C-Box,
98% Complete
C-FJKP (marks reserved)
Lanark, Ontario
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=240070#240070
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Updated Web Site |
Lowell:
I'm wondering how much flex your gear has before bottoming out.. I think
the tube gear that came with my plane bottoms out after less than three
inches of travel. One other question can you adjust the toe out on this
gear with shims?
Noel
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of dave
Sent: Sunday, April 19, 2009 12:27 AM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: Updated Web Site
Lowell , Great update and great looking gear. Glad you finally posted that
they are a tad heavier than tube gear , Dick must have weighed them not
naked ? Anyhow still cheaper and better looking than a Grove gear. But
more drag as per Dick ?
Dave
lcfitt(at)sbcglobal.net wrote:
> Dave,
>
> We have no heavy off airport experience with this gear design. My
original
> bungee gear weighs 9 lbs. bare naked - with bungees but without axles.
Our
> gear weighs 17 lbs in the same confuguration and the original axles,
wheels
> and brakes are re-used. The price is $1275 without fairings. The
> fairings add $250 and they are pre formed and predrilled.
>
> Lowell
>
> ---
--------
Rotax Dealer, Ontario Canada
http://www.cfisher.com/
Awesome *New Forum *
http://rotaxaircraft.com/forum/
Realtime Kitfox movies to separate the internet chatter from the truth
http://www.youtube.com/profile_videos?user=kitfoxflyer
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=240019#240019
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Installation of a 912S |
Jack,
I am currently making this conversion in a Model IV 1200. I have not flown
behind the new engine yet (possibly next week) but expect a significant
increase in performance and versatility with the extra 20hp and a in flight
adjustable prop. I doubt if it's worth the expense and hassle unless you
actually need to replace your engine. However, if you need to shorten your
take off (for safety reasons) or are flying floats, or need better climb at
altitude (high mountain flying), then it might be worth it.
Here's is what you can potentially expect in making the conversion: You
will need a larger radiator (which may not bolt in the same holes), you wil
l
need a oil cooler (you may already have one, I didn't), you may (likely)
have to modify your firewall to accommodate their new HD starter, you will
want to make sure you have the HD engine mount (see Kitfox SB 54A), and
finally, you may have trouble with fitting the new oil tank do to height.
If you don't have the old style tank (shorter and fatter), then you have
avoided the biggest dilemma. I solved the problem by cutting off the drai
n
bolt and re-routing the wiring that rests on top of the engine. This was
hassle an gives me just enough room and it may not work in all cases. You
can keep your old tank and I know at least a couple builders who have, BUT.
When I asked the folks at a very qualified Rotex Service Center, they had
concerns about doing this. The new tank fittings are larger in diameter,
and the system was designed this way. The concern was about possible oil
flow restriction in and out of the tank.
Les Evarts
Kitfox Model IV-1200
On Wed, Apr 8, 2009 at 12:38 PM, Jacques Voynaud <
Jacques.Voynaud@cegepat.qc.ca> wrote:
> I know of some list members who swiched from a Rotax 912 to 912 S 100hp
> engine in a Classic 1V before. Is there any major modifications to the fr
ame
> or engine mounts or cowling to perform in order to do that? Secondly, is
it
> worthed the the expense in terms of performance? I=92m thinking of taking
> advantage of Rotax exchange program, wich ends at the end of this month.
>
>
> Jack
>
> C-FASJ
>
> Classic 1V
>
> *
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
> *
>
>
--
Les Evarts
Kitfox Model IV-1200
Message 9
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When checking main gear wheel alignment here's my 2 cents.
My Kitfox was unruly on take off when the tail came up so I checked wheel alignment
with the tail up fuselage level attitude.
The method I used is a plumb bob to find and mark fuselage center line on the floor
then a straight 2 X 4 about 5 or 6 feet long (or some other item you are
sure is straight like a 6 foot level) on edge against the outside of the tires
to measure to center line. Measure from both ends of the 2 X 4 to the center
line of fuselage on both wheels.
My tube gear had the left wheel seriously toed in. I chained the tail to a post
and tried a 6 foot cheater on the axle to bend the gear but stopped that because
I was afraid I would break the gear before it bent.
Then I took the axle out of the gear, put it in a vise and bent it with a sledge
hammer. It only takes a lite blow to bend the axle this way. After about 2
or 3 tries I had the wheels tracking straight ahead as near as I could measure.
The results were amazing, the airplane is now the easiest to take off and land
tail dragger I have ever flown. Some of that may be because I have more practice
now but I can say for sure the alignment made a lot of improvement.
--------
Tom Jones
Classic IV
503 Rotax, 72 inch Two blade Warp
Ellensburg, WA
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=240083#240083
Message 10
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A little more about wheel alignment....make sure that if you EVER
roll the plane backwards during this process, that you roll it
forwards for several feet so that the gear can normalize itself in
the forward direction before taking any more measurements. I've
helped on about 4 homebuilts, and this seems to always need to be
done. It certainly changes the alignment on my Grove gear-equipped
Kitfox taildragger. I'm pretty sure it has to do with the caster
effect when being rolled backwards that is "tweaking" the alignment
of the mains. I know that when I installed my first pair of wheel-
skis I thought I had the things toed out about an inch, but when I
rolled the plane forwards (on the wheels), everything came into
alignment and the apparent 1" toe-out became about 1/16" of toe-in.
Lynn Matteson
Kitfox IV Speedster, taildragger
Jabiru 2200, #2062, 630+ hrs
Sensenich 62x46
Electroair direct-fire ignition system
Status: flying
On Apr 19, 2009, at 10:14 AM, Tom Jones wrote:
>
> When checking main gear wheel alignment here's my 2 cents.
>
> My Kitfox was unruly on take off when the tail came up so I checked
> wheel alignment with the tail up fuselage level attitude.
>
> The method I used is a plumb bob to find and mark fuselage center
> line on the floor then a straight 2 X 4 about 5 or 6 feet long (or
> some other item you are sure is straight like a 6 foot level) on
> edge against the outside of the tires to measure to center line.
> Measure from both ends of the 2 X 4 to the center line of fuselage
> on both wheels.
>
> My tube gear had the left wheel seriously toed in. I chained the
> tail to a post and tried a 6 foot cheater on the axle to bend the
> gear but stopped that because I was afraid I would break the gear
> before it bent.
>
> Then I took the axle out of the gear, put it in a vise and bent it
> with a sledge hammer. It only takes a lite blow to bend the axle
> this way. After about 2 or 3 tries I had the wheels tracking
> straight ahead as near as I could measure.
>
> The results were amazing, the airplane is now the easiest to take
> off and land tail dragger I have ever flown. Some of that may be
> because I have more practice now but I can say for sure the
> alignment made a lot of improvement.
>
> --------
> Tom Jones
> Classic IV
> 503 Rotax, 72 inch Two blade Warp
> Ellensburg, WA
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=240083#240083
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Brake Bleeder |
On Sat, April 18, 2009 8:48 pm, Lynn Matteson wrote:
>
> So as not to display the arrogance of another responder,
Sometimes people type to their computers as if the damned thing were a cash machine
that just told you it grabbed $3 service charge for giving you that $60 you needed
to
renew your Driver's License.
People have to chill out to enjoy their hangar talk with a cup of coffee, or 'shine
for some of you hard core characters. :))
> James, I'll
> just say that all the bleeders I've dealt with over the years have
> been automotive, and all have been on the top of the individual wheel
> cylinders, because air rises.
Very true, well said Lynn. I must point out that an air bubble the size of the
ID of
the brake line will rise so slowly that it can easily be pushed along with the
brake
fluid, either up or down, but once it gets to a wide spot such as a wheel cylinder
then it will rise to the top. So, there has to be a way to bleed air at the top
of a
wide spot.
> When the brake pedal is depressed, the
> fluid and any air contained therein will travel out to the wheel
> cylinders, where the air will rise to the top where it can be bled
> off. Other brake systems may use a different scenario, Kitfox
> included, but it is safe to say that the bleeder is not on the bottom
> "for all brake systems."
How would Johnny have said it to Ed? Well said, 5606 breath!
OK, I have Matco calipers and they can be mounted on the gear leg at the axle in
4
possible positions - your choice at 45 135 225 315. I chose top and to the rear.
I
considered brake line position, ground clearance and brake line location. I also
discovered the calipers were left-right swappable so I could put the brake line
at the
top and the bleeder valve at the bottom or vice versa. So, you can decide which
way
you're going to bleed - bottom fill pumping bleeder at the bottom, top fill using
master cylinder for a pump, then bleeder at the top. Subsequently, it was pointed
out
by my old time tail wheel A&P master craftsman friend that if you have the bleeder
at
the bottom and still want to top fill using the master cylinder, one guy pumps
the
master cylinder and watches the reservoir while the other guy uses the brake line
fitting at the top of the wheel cylinder as a bleeder.
Now, just as a reminder, I have a Merlin GT not a KF but I use the Matco brakes
which
I think some Kitfoxen use, right? Not sure if the Kitfox allows for the caliper
mounting alternatives though. I mounted mine up and to the rear thinking this would
be
the best place to have them so rocks wouldn't hit the brake lines as much and I
put
the bleeders at the bottom. I have a bleeder pump that will draw from the master
cylinder or a clean container and pump fluid into the bleeder. If I draw from the
master cylinder I can keep it going until I am really really sure there is no air
inside. But if I want to bleed in the conventional manner, I can crack the brake
line
fitting at the top of the wheel cylinder while my wife pushes down the break pedal
and
holds it down while I tighten the fitting. I use my wife for this because my dog
is
much better suited for chasing rabbits.
--
Paul A. Franz
Registration/Aircraft - N14UW/Merlin GT
Engine/Prop - Rotax 914/NSI CAP
Bellevue WA
425.241.1618 Cell
There is perhaps in every thing of any consequence, secret history, which
it would be amusing to know, could we have it authentically communicated.
-- James Boswell
Question: Is it better to abide by the rules until they're changed or
help speed the change by breaking them?
The better the state is established, the fainter is humanity.
To make the individual uncomfortable, that is my task.
-- Nietzsche
"Never underestimate the power of a small tactical nuclear weapon."
Message 12
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Tom,
This is interesting. I have read many horror stories about ground handling
characteristics of the Kitfox and ( although having many hours in
taildraggers) was expecting trouble when I first flew mine 500+ hrs ago. It
handled beautifully. I have never had any problems and find it one of the
most docile taildraggers I have flown.
I have flown aircraft with a bit of toe in and know they can be an
extreme handful. If some of these came from the factory not straight and
true,that may explain the problems so many have had. ANY toe in in any
taildragger is a setup for a trip through the weeds at best.
I would advise all to check your landing gear. One easy way is to lay 2
perfectly straight boards(1"X4"X 8' +) against the outside of the tires and
measure between both ends. Yes, you will have to find two buddies to give
you a hand for half an hour max. If they are off then get more critical. If
they are toed out it is not much of a problem unless it is extreme, but
straight is better.
Larry Huntley, Dundee,NY
4-1200 Soob,510hrs,
still on little fat original tires
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tom Jones" <nahsikhs@elltel.net>
Sent: Sunday, April 19, 2009 10:14 AM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Toe in
>
> When checking main gear wheel alignment here's my 2 cents.
>
> My Kitfox was unruly on take off when the tail came up so I checked wheel
> alignment with the tail up fuselage level attitude.
>
> The method I used is a plumb bob to find and mark fuselage center line on
> the floor then a straight 2 X 4 about 5 or 6 feet long (or some other item
> you are sure is straight like a 6 foot level) on edge against the outside
> of the tires to measure to center line. Measure from both ends of the 2 X
> 4 to the center line of fuselage on both wheels.
>
> My tube gear had the left wheel seriously toed in. I chained the tail to
> a post and tried a 6 foot cheater on the axle to bend the gear but stopped
> that because I was afraid I would break the gear before it bent.
>
> Then I took the axle out of the gear, put it in a vise and bent it with a
> sledge hammer. It only takes a lite blow to bend the axle this way.
> After about 2 or 3 tries I had the wheels tracking straight ahead as near
> as I could measure.
>
> The results were amazing, the airplane is now the easiest to take off and
> land tail dragger I have ever flown. Some of that may be because I have
> more practice now but I can say for sure the alignment made a lot of
> improvement.
>
> --------
> Tom Jones
> Classic IV
> 503 Rotax, 72 inch Two blade Warp
> Ellensburg, WA
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=240083#240083
>
>
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
09:55:00
Message 13
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| Subject: | Back-issues of "The Kitfox Builder" Newsletter |
I've got a 3-ring binder with a bunch of back issues of "The Kitfox Builder" newsletter.
Dates are generally from Nov 94 to Jun 99. I won't be building a Kitfox
in the near future, but I hate to throw them out. They are a wealth of information.
If anyone wants it, $10 gets it shipped to you.
Jeff Shultz
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=240094#240094
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Brake Bleeder |
I, like most of us have been following this thread with a little interest to
see what direction it will take. While it is true that you can do basically
whatever you want with an amateur built plane there are still recognized
procedures for doing specific tasks.
This is the one described in the Jeppsen A&P Technician Airframe Textbook.
After all the years they have been training A&Ps I guess they have some idea
what they are talking about.. Please pardon any typos you find.
PP10-29, 10-30
D. Brake inspection and service.
1. On the Aircraft. Sub b. Check for air in the system.
Spongy brake action is nearly always an indication of air in the system (
hydraulic system), and if any air is found it must be removed by bleeding
before proper braking action is restored.
There are two general methods of bleeding brakes, and while basic procedures
for each will be discussed, the airframe manufacturers service information
must be followed in detail.
Note: As manufacturers of our planes we set those standards.
1. Master Cylinder Brakes
When the brake master cylinder is fully released, there is a direct passage
from the brake cylinder through the compensator port to the reservoir. This
prevents any pressure build up from heat causing the brakes to drag. To
bleed this type of brake, remove the screw from the bleeder valve and
connect the brake bleeding pressure pot ( Pump with brake fluid in it.) to
the brake with a flexible hose. Before tightening the line on the bleeder
hose be sure to purge all of the air from it.
CAUTION: Be sure the pressure pot is filled with the proper type of
hydraulic fluid, as improper fluid can cause serious damage to the system.
For most of us that will be 5606.
Attach a flexible hose to the brake reservoir vent and place the end of the
hose in a clean container, As shown in Fig. 10-58. Open the bleeder valve
with pressure applied from the pot to force fluid up through the brake, the
master cylinder and the reservoir into the container. Allow the flow to
continue until there are no more bubbles. Close the bleeder valve and the
valve on the bleeder pot and remove the line from the brake. Replace the
bleeder screw and remove the line form the reservoir. Check to be sure
there is the proper amount of fluid in the reservoir.
This type of brake may also be bled by forcing trapped air out of the system
at the wheel cylinder, See fig 10-59. Slip one end of a section of flexible
tubing over the bleeder valve on the brake and immerse the other end of the
tubing in a container of clean hydraulic fluid. Check to be sure the
reservoir is full of fluid, and depress the master cylinder. Hold the
piston down and crack the bleeder valve on the wheel (a two man job to be
sure) allow the piston in the master cylinder to go all the way down, and
then close the bleeder valve before you release the master cylinder.
Continue this procedure, being sure to keep the reservoir full until fluid
flows from the brake with no bubbles.
Scan002, April 19, 2009.jpg
So it appears both methods are acceptable. I notice in both these diagrams
the bleeder appears to be below the brake line on the slave cylinders.
Noel
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lynn Matteson
Sent: Sunday, April 19, 2009 1:19 AM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Re: Brake Bleeder
So as not to display the arrogance of another responder, James, I'll
just say that all the bleeders I've dealt with over the years have
been automotive, and all have been on the top of the individual wheel
cylinders, because air rises. When the brake pedal is depressed, the
fluid and any air contained therein will travel out to the wheel
cylinders, where the air will rise to the top where it can be bled
off. Other brake systems may use a different scenario, Kitfox
included, but it is safe to say that the bleeder is not on the bottom
"for all brake systems."
Lynn Matteson
Kitfox IV Speedster, taildragger
Jabiru 2200, #2062, 628.1 hrs
Sensenich 62x46
Electroair direct-fire ignition system
Status: flying
do not archive
On Apr 18, 2009, at 8:39 PM, WurlyBird wrote:
> <james.t.trizzino@us.army.mil>
>
> The bleeder for all brake systems is on the bottom. A vacuum
> system simply hooks to the bleeder and creates a vacuum and pulls
> all the fluid AND AIR out through the bottom. So all you have to
> do is create a vacuum and then make sure you keep the reservoir
> full and voila, nice fresh fluid, no bubbles.
>
> --------
> James
> Kitfox 3 / 582 / GSC prop
> Soloed the Kitfox yesterday!!!
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=239987#239987
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 15
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Again, I'd like to point out that "blanket" statements like this one
are not necessarily true. I have a slight amount of toe-in, and that
qualifies for "ANY toe in" and I have one ground loop to my credit in
over 1500 landings in over 600 hrs of flying. The one g'loop came as
a result of turning the plane at too fast a speed....trying to get
turned around so I could see what the cops were doing at the approach
end of the field. :)
As someone has pointed out, all homebuilts are different, and "your
mileage may vary" as the saying goes. I think it all depends on the
length of the aircraft from the mains to the tailwheel, how wide is
the distance between the mains, width of the main tires (maybe),
weight of the aircraft, and maybe other factors.
Lynn Matteson
Kitfox IV Speedster, taildragger
Jabiru 2200, #2062, 632.8 hrs
Sensenich 62x46
Electroair direct-fire ignition system
Status: flying
On Apr 19, 2009, at 11:18 AM, Larry Huntley wrote:
> ANY toe in in any taildragger is a setup for a trip through the
> weeds at best.
>
> Larry Huntley, Dundee,NY
> 4-1200 Soob,510hrs,
> still on little fat original tires
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tom Jones" <nahsikhs@elltel.net>
> To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Sunday, April 19, 2009 10:14 AM
> Subject: Kitfox-List: Toe in
>
Message 16
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Tom=2C Your method of checking each wheel independend of the other sounds l
ike the best to me. Checking the toe in on wheels only doesn't find the whe
el that is misaligned. I guess either method would work but the plane would
have a little "dog track to it if both wheels were parallel or toed out bu
t not aligned with the fuselage. Might not be enough to be noticable though
.
Pat Reilly
Mod 3 582 Rebuild
Rockford=2C IL
> From: asq@roadrunner.com
> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Toe in
> Date: Sun=2C 19 Apr 2009 11:18:52 -0400
>
>
> Tom=2C
> This is interesting. I have read many horror stories about ground handlin
g
> characteristics of the Kitfox and ( although having many hours in
> taildraggers) was expecting trouble when I first flew mine 500+ hrs ago.
It
> handled beautifully. I have never had any problems and find it one of the
> most docile taildraggers I have flown.
> I have flown aircraft with a bit of toe in and know they can be an
> extreme handful. If some of these came from the factory not straight and
> true=2Cthat may explain the problems so many have had. ANY toe in in any
> taildragger is a setup for a trip through the weeds at best.
> I would advise all to check your landing gear. One easy way is to lay 2
> perfectly straight boards(1"X4"X 8' +) against the outside of the tires a
nd
> measure between both ends. Yes=2C you will have to find two buddies to gi
ve
> you a hand for half an hour max. If they are off then get more critical.
If
> they are toed out it is not much of a problem unless it is extreme=2C but
> straight is better.
> Larry Huntley=2C Dundee=2CNY
> 4-1200 Soob=2C510hrs=2C
> still on little fat original tires
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Tom Jones" <nahsikhs@elltel.net>
> To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Sunday=2C April 19=2C 2009 10:14 AM
> Subject: Kitfox-List: Toe in
>
>
> >
> > When checking main gear wheel alignment here's my 2 cents.
> >
> > My Kitfox was unruly on take off when the tail came up so I checked whe
el
> > alignment with the tail up fuselage level attitude.
> >
> > The method I used is a plumb bob to find and mark fuselage center line
on
> > the floor then a straight 2 X 4 about 5 or 6 feet long (or some other i
tem
> > you are sure is straight like a 6 foot level) on edge against the outsi
de
> > of the tires to measure to center line. Measure from both ends of the 2
X
> > 4 to the center line of fuselage on both wheels.
> >
> > My tube gear had the left wheel seriously toed in. I chained the tail t
o
> > a post and tried a 6 foot cheater on the axle to bend the gear but stop
ped
> > that because I was afraid I would break the gear before it bent.
> >
> > Then I took the axle out of the gear=2C put it in a vise and bent it wi
th a
> > sledge hammer. It only takes a lite blow to bend the axle this way.
> > After about 2 or 3 tries I had the wheels tracking straight ahead as ne
ar
> > as I could measure.
> >
> > The results were amazing=2C the airplane is now the easiest to take off
and
> > land tail dragger I have ever flown. Some of that may be because I have
> > more practice now but I can say for sure the alignment made a lot of
> > improvement.
> >
> > --------
> > Tom Jones
> > Classic IV
> > 503 Rotax=2C 72 inch Two blade Warp
> > Ellensburg=2C WA
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=240083#240083
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> -------------------------------------------------------------------------
-------
>
>
>
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> 09:55:00
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Brake Bleeder |
I just came back from a "service call" on a Waiex under construction.
The guy was using an air-pressure brake bleeder that had been rigged
up for aircraft use, that is, for pressurizing from the bottom-
mounted bleeder screw. He had been at the bleeding job for over a
week, off and on. I didn't like the idea of the pressurized container
he was using, so I took along the pumper-style oil can that I used on
my Kitfox 3 years ago. We had the job done in 15 minutes or less with
the simplest of tools, whereas the "big city" device had him...and me
earlier...pulling out his hair.
My first encounter with "bottom bleeders" was with my Kitfox (dual
brake controls) and I thought someone had screwed up when they
mounted the wheel cylinders. Then I tried a novel approach....I read
the directions....what a concept!! Following the directions made the
job go easy.
I also have Matco wheel cylinders, but Cleveland masters, Paul.
Cracking a brake line is an old trick I learned to bleed air from an
automotive master cylinder. It saves having to pump the air in a new
master cylinder all the way down the lines to the wheel cylinders.
Lynn Matteson
Kitfox IV Speedster, taildragger
Jabiru 2200, #2062, 632.8 hrs
Sensenich 62x46
Electroair direct-fire ignition system
Status: flying
On Apr 19, 2009, at 10:59 AM, Paul Franz - Merlin GT wrote:
> <paul@eucleides.com>
>
> On Sat, April 18, 2009 8:48 pm, Lynn Matteson wrote:
>>
>> So as not to display the arrogance of another responder,
>
> Sometimes people type to their computers as if the damned thing
> were a cash machine
> that just told you it grabbed $3 service charge for giving you that
> $60 you needed to
> renew your Driver's License.
>
> People have to chill out to enjoy their hangar talk with a cup of
> coffee, or 'shine
> for some of you hard core characters. :))
>
>> James, I'll
>> just say that all the bleeders I've dealt with over the years have
>> been automotive, and all have been on the top of the individual wheel
>> cylinders, because air rises.
>
> Very true, well said Lynn. I must point out that an air bubble the
> size of the ID of
> the brake line will rise so slowly that it can easily be pushed
> along with the brake
> fluid, either up or down, but once it gets to a wide spot such as a
> wheel cylinder
> then it will rise to the top. So, there has to be a way to bleed
> air at the top of a
> wide spot.
>
>> When the brake pedal is depressed, the
>> fluid and any air contained therein will travel out to the wheel
>> cylinders, where the air will rise to the top where it can be bled
>> off. Other brake systems may use a different scenario, Kitfox
>> included, but it is safe to say that the bleeder is not on the bottom
>> "for all brake systems."
>
> How would Johnny have said it to Ed? Well said, 5606 breath!
>
> OK, I have Matco calipers and they can be mounted on the gear leg
> at the axle in 4
> possible positions - your choice at 45 135 225 315. I chose top
> and to the rear. I
> considered brake line position, ground clearance and brake line
> location. I also
> discovered the calipers were left-right swappable so I could put
> the brake line at the
> top and the bleeder valve at the bottom or vice versa. So, you can
> decide which way
> you're going to bleed - bottom fill pumping bleeder at the bottom,
> top fill using
> master cylinder for a pump, then bleeder at the top. Subsequently,
> it was pointed out
> by my old time tail wheel A&P master craftsman friend that if you
> have the bleeder at
> the bottom and still want to top fill using the master cylinder,
> one guy pumps the
> master cylinder and watches the reservoir while the other guy uses
> the brake line
> fitting at the top of the wheel cylinder as a bleeder.
>
> Now, just as a reminder, I have a Merlin GT not a KF but I use the
> Matco brakes which
> I think some Kitfoxen use, right? Not sure if the Kitfox allows for
> the caliper
> mounting alternatives though. I mounted mine up and to the rear
> thinking this would be
> the best place to have them so rocks wouldn't hit the brake lines
> as much and I put
> the bleeders at the bottom. I have a bleeder pump that will draw
> from the master
> cylinder or a clean container and pump fluid into the bleeder. If I
> draw from the
> master cylinder I can keep it going until I am really really sure
> there is no air
> inside. But if I want to bleed in the conventional manner, I can
> crack the brake line
> fitting at the top of the wheel cylinder while my wife pushes down
> the break pedal and
> holds it down while I tighten the fitting. I use my wife for this
> because my dog is
> much better suited for chasing rabbits.
> --
> Paul A. Franz
> Registration/Aircraft - N14UW/Merlin GT
> Engine/Prop - Rotax 914/NSI CAP
> Bellevue WA
> 425.241.1618 Cell
>
> There is perhaps in every thing of any consequence, secret history,
> which
> it would be amusing to know, could we have it authentically
> communicated.
> -- James Boswell
>
> Question: Is it better to abide by the rules until they're changed or
> help speed the change by breaking them?
>
> The better the state is established, the fainter is humanity.
> To make the individual uncomfortable, that is my task.
> -- Nietzsche
>
> "Never underestimate the power of a small tactical nuclear weapon."
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Brake Bleeder |
Paul=2C Do you mean your dog is better at chasing rabbits than he is at pus
hing the brake pedal or better at chasing rabbits than your wife? ( Couldn'
t resist that one)
Pat Reilly
Model 3 582 Rebuild
Rockford=2C IL
> Date: Sun=2C 19 Apr 2009 07:59:28 -0700
> Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: Brake Bleeder
> From: paul@eucleides.com
> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
>
es.com>
>
> On Sat=2C April 18=2C 2009 8:48 pm=2C Lynn Matteson wrote:
> >
> > So as not to display the arrogance of another responder=2C
>
> Sometimes people type to their computers as if the damned thing were a ca
sh machine
> that just told you it grabbed $3 service charge for giving you that $60 y
ou needed to
> renew your Driver's License.
>
> People have to chill out to enjoy their hangar talk with a cup of coffee
=2C or 'shine
> for some of you hard core characters. :))
>
> > James=2C I'll
> > just say that all the bleeders I've dealt with over the years have
> > been automotive=2C and all have been on the top of the individual wheel
> > cylinders=2C because air rises.
>
> Very true=2C well said Lynn. I must point out that an air bubble the size
of the ID of
> the brake line will rise so slowly that it can easily be pushed along wit
h the brake
> fluid=2C either up or down=2C but once it gets to a wide spot such as a w
heel cylinder
> then it will rise to the top. So=2C there has to be a way to bleed air at
the top of a
> wide spot.
>
> > When the brake pedal is depressed=2C the
> > fluid and any air contained therein will travel out to the wheel
> > cylinders=2C where the air will rise to the top where it can be bled
> > off. Other brake systems may use a different scenario=2C Kitfox
> > included=2C but it is safe to say that the bleeder is not on the bottom
> > "for all brake systems."
>
> How would Johnny have said it to Ed? Well said=2C 5606 breath!
>
> OK=2C I have Matco calipers and they can be mounted on the gear leg at th
e axle in 4
> possible positions - your choice at 45=B0 135=B0 225=B0 315=B0. I chose t
op and to the rear. I
> considered brake line position=2C ground clearance and brake line locatio
n. I also
> discovered the calipers were left-right swappable so I could put the brak
e line at the
> top and the bleeder valve at the bottom or vice versa. So=2C you can deci
de which way
> you're going to bleed - bottom fill pumping bleeder at the bottom=2C top
fill using
> master cylinder for a pump=2C then bleeder at the top. Subsequently=2C it
was pointed out
> by my old time tail wheel A&P master craftsman friend that if you have th
e bleeder at
> the bottom and still want to top fill using the master cylinder=2C one gu
y pumps the
> master cylinder and watches the reservoir while the other guy uses the br
ake line
> fitting at the top of the wheel cylinder as a bleeder.
>
> Now=2C just as a reminder=2C I have a Merlin GT not a KF but I use the Ma
tco brakes which
> I think some Kitfoxen use=2C right? Not sure if the Kitfox allows for the
caliper
> mounting alternatives though. I mounted mine up and to the rear thinking
this would be
> the best place to have them so rocks wouldn't hit the brake lines as much
and I put
> the bleeders at the bottom. I have a bleeder pump that will draw from the
master
> cylinder or a clean container and pump fluid into the bleeder. If I draw
from the
> master cylinder I can keep it going until I am really really sure there i
s no air
> inside. But if I want to bleed in the conventional manner=2C I can crack
the brake line
> fitting at the top of the wheel cylinder while my wife pushes down the br
eak pedal and
> holds it down while I tighten the fitting. I use my wife for this because
my dog is
> much better suited for chasing rabbits.
> --
> Paul A. Franz
> Registration/Aircraft - N14UW/Merlin GT
> Engine/Prop - Rotax 914/NSI CAP
> Bellevue WA
> 425.241.1618 Cell
>
> There is perhaps in every thing of any consequence=2C secret history=2C w
hich
> it would be amusing to know=2C could we have it authentically communicate
d.
> -- James Boswell
>
> Question: Is it better to abide by the rules until they're changed or
> help speed the change by breaking them?
>
> The better the state is established=2C the fainter is humanity.
> To make the individual uncomfortable=2C that is my task.
> -- Nietzsche
>
> "Never underestimate the power of a small tactical nuclear weapon."
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
Message 19
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Lynn=2C I know you are a hell of a mechanic=2C engineer and fabricator. But
=2C are you sure the toe in measurements changed by
1 1/16 " by just rolling the plane forwards and backwards. Seems like somet
hing would have to be loose to vary that much. Also=2C How much toe in or o
ut exists varies by how far from the axle you take the measurement. Is anyb
ody taking the measurement from other than the plane of the axle on the out
er circumference of the tire? A straight edge on the sides of the tire are
great for determining toe in or out. But tell me if I am wrong=2C reference
s on toe in or out are done at the tire outer circumference in the plane of
the axle. Tire diameter would also affect the proper toe in or out.
Pat Reilly
Mod 3 582 Rebuild
Rockford=2C IL
> From: lynnmatt@jps.net
> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Toe in
> Date: Sun=2C 19 Apr 2009 10:58:08 -0400
> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
>
>
> A little more about wheel alignment....make sure that if you EVER
> roll the plane backwards during this process=2C that you roll it
> forwards for several feet so that the gear can normalize itself in
> the forward direction before taking any more measurements. I've
> helped on about 4 homebuilts=2C and this seems to always need to be
> done. It certainly changes the alignment on my Grove gear-equipped
> Kitfox taildragger. I'm pretty sure it has to do with the caster
> effect when being rolled backwards that is "tweaking" the alignment
> of the mains. I know that when I installed my first pair of wheel-
> skis I thought I had the things toed out about an inch=2C but when I
> rolled the plane forwards (on the wheels)=2C everything came into
> alignment and the apparent 1" toe-out became about 1/16" of toe-in.
>
>
> Lynn Matteson
> Kitfox IV Speedster=2C taildragger
> Jabiru 2200=2C #2062=2C 630+ hrs
> Sensenich 62x46
> Electroair direct-fire ignition system
> Status: flying
>
>
>
>
> On Apr 19=2C 2009=2C at 10:14 AM=2C Tom Jones wrote:
>
> >
> > When checking main gear wheel alignment here's my 2 cents.
> >
> > My Kitfox was unruly on take off when the tail came up so I checked
> > wheel alignment with the tail up fuselage level attitude.
> >
> > The method I used is a plumb bob to find and mark fuselage center
> > line on the floor then a straight 2 X 4 about 5 or 6 feet long (or
> > some other item you are sure is straight like a 6 foot level) on
> > edge against the outside of the tires to measure to center line.
> > Measure from both ends of the 2 X 4 to the center line of fuselage
> > on both wheels.
> >
> > My tube gear had the left wheel seriously toed in. I chained the
> > tail to a post and tried a 6 foot cheater on the axle to bend the
> > gear but stopped that because I was afraid I would break the gear
> > before it bent.
> >
> > Then I took the axle out of the gear=2C put it in a vise and bent it
> > with a sledge hammer. It only takes a lite blow to bend the axle
> > this way. After about 2 or 3 tries I had the wheels tracking
> > straight ahead as near as I could measure.
> >
> > The results were amazing=2C the airplane is now the easiest to take
> > off and land tail dragger I have ever flown. Some of that may be
> > because I have more practice now but I can say for sure the
> > alignment made a lot of improvement.
> >
> > --------
> > Tom Jones
> > Classic IV
> > 503 Rotax=2C 72 inch Two blade Warp
> > Ellensburg=2C WA
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=240083#240083
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
Message 20
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Dick=2C Alot of us have one piece reservoir master cylinders on the pedal.
I bought a remote reservoir ( fluid visable )=2C but can't use it with the
one piece master cylinders with reservoirs. Did you have a remote reservoir
that you couldn't see the fluid in originally? Also=2C you reported Lowell
's brush gear was 4# lighter than the original stock. I wondered how that c
ould be at the time. I see Lowell reports his gear is 9 pounds heavier tha
n stock=2C which looking at the gear would make more sense. Did I misread y
our report on lowell's bush gear?
Pat Reilly
Mod 3 582 Rebuild
Rockford=2C IL
From: Catz631@aol.com
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Brake Bleeder
Say one other thing to this brake bleeder business. You can buy a "visible"
brake fluid reservoir. This makes it real easy to watch the "back bleeding
"action as you fill your brake lines. You just follow the bubbles thru you
r visible line up into the visible reservoir into your visible airplane. No
over filling mess!
I did this on my aircraft and it sure makes it nice. You just take a peek
at the reservoir and you know how much fluid you have. No more dipping toot
h picks=2Cetc into the reservoir to measure the quantity.
Dick Maddux
Pensacola=2CFl
A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy steps!
Message 21
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| Subject: | Updated Web Site |
Dick=2C Ignore my last message concerning bush gear weight. I hadn't seen t
his message at the time I mailed it. Lowell said he shipped my gear last we
ek. Looks like I will install it before I get the plane in the air. I was p
lanning on flying it with the original gear 1st. But=2C I thought Lowell wo
uld take longer to send it.
do not archive
Pat Reilly
From: Catz631@aol.com
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Updated Web Site
Dave=2C
When I received the "bush gear" and fairings from Lowell I removed all th
e parts (nuts and bolts included) from the box and weighed them on my elect
ronic postal scales that could weigh up to 400 lbs.
I then removed the original gear off the aircraft which was equipped with
the paint=2C fabric and the plastic gear fairings and weighed both gear leg
s before I installed the new gear as I wanted to see the difference.
As mentioned earlier the bush gear complete (without paint) was almost 4 l
bs lighter. I couldn't believe it so I got a 10 lb weight lifting weight an
d put it on the scale to verify it's accuracy. It weighed 10 lbs. Then a 20
. It weighed 19.9. Then yesterday I weighed the shipping box with the old o
riginal gear (I just sold the gear on EBAY) on the same scales and it weigh
ed 23.7 lbs (box and packing=2Cetc.) . I took it to UPS they weighed it on
their scales and it was 23.5 lbs.
Lowell has told me that he is using an electronic fish scale so we are usi
ng too different types of scales (which shouldn't make any difference)
In any event I think we are splitting hairs here as I can make up the diff
erence in one good meal!
The bottom line is that this is one fantastic gear that looks good and mak
es the aircraft ground handle like a dream! Good three point landings are a
natural with good positive airflow over the elevator due to what I think i
s movement of the fat wheels further from the center line of the aircraft.
I don't have any experience landing in the real rough as you do Dave and I
probably never will unless my engine "gives up the ghost" but it does just
fine on my grass field and pavement at the local airport. I think I have a
bout 20-25 landings on it now.
Dick Maddux
Fox 4-1200
Pensacola=2CFl
A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy steps!
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Brake Bleeder |
Noel-
I have bled brakes on cars by using the second method...the one where
the hose from the (top-mounted) bleeder valve is inserted into a
glass container with brake fluid covering the end of the hose. I then
open the bleeder valve (certainly NOT a two-man job as your
instructions say) and climb into the car and depress the brake pedal
a few times, usually hanging my head upside-down out of the car so I
can see the action going on inside the glass container. When the
bubbles stop forming, and the fluid is clear, I climb out of the car
and close the bleeder valve. There is NO reason that you have to have
a second person IF the hose end does not get uncovered by the brake
fluid. It's a simple matter of hydraulics and air...if the hose
remains covered by the fluid, when the brake pedal is depressed, air
and/or fluid will be expelled from the end of the hose. When the
pedal is released, fluid will be sucked back into the wheel cylinder,
but the air has risen to the top of the fluid and dissapated. This
process is repeated until no air can be seen bubbling up in the
glass. I have installed a complete 4-wheel brake system on a
homebuilt car and have not had to enlist any help at any point along
the way, and this includes new brake lines and empty cylinders which
are full of air as you can expect.
As far as the first method is concerned, you don't have to have a
hose and container on the reservoir either. Just have an empty
reservoir to begin with, and check periodically for when the fluid is
starting to get near the top. At this point, draw off some of the
fluid from the reservoir, and continue (if necessary) to pump fluid
into the bleeder valve. When all signs of air is gone from the lines
(clear lines, I hope), the job is done....top off the reservoir, and
test the brakes. I've done this potentially messy job alone and have
not made a mess either on the ground or inside the plane....well,
maybe a *little* mess on the ground, because the hose-to-bleeder
screw connection sometimes is not absolutely leakproof and drips a bit.
This is not a complicated job to do if you know how many pumps of the
oil can will empty it, and how many pumps will overflow the
reservoir. Don't exceed either of the numbers. Keep track of the
number of pumps, and fill the pumper before you are pumping air, and
empty the reservoir before it fills, and the job will be simple and
clean.
Lynn Matteson
Kitfox IV Speedster, taildragger
Jabiru 2200, #2062, 632.8 hrs
Sensenich 62x46
Electroair direct-fire ignition system
Status: flying
On Apr 19, 2009, at 12:55 PM, Noel Loveys wrote:
> I, like most of us have been following this thread with a little
> interest to see what direction it will take. While it is true that
> you can do basically whatever you want with an amateur built plane
> there are still recognized procedures for doing specific tasks.
>
>
> This is the one described in the Jeppsen A&P Technician Airframe
> Textbook. After all the years they have been training A&Ps I guess
> they have some idea what they are talking about.. Please pardon
> any typos you find.
Message 23
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What year is the prop? GSC has a time expiry of 500 hr and 5 yr whichever
comes first. As with all these things the expiry is not compulsory but if
your prop is older I'd check with GSC and see if they will replace your
blades for a discount price.
Noel
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ken Potter
Sent: Sunday, April 19, 2009 8:28 AM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: Brake Lines
Thanks everyone for the advice. They seem flexible still but I think I'll
replace them anyways.
Dave, I decided for now that I'll go with the 3 blade ground adjustable GSC
which came with the kit. The mechanical in-flight-adjustable still
intrigues me but I fear that it would add an extra level of complexity while
I fly off my hours later this summer.
Cheers
Ken
--------
Ken Potter
Model II, No. 483
Rotax 582, C-Box,
98% Complete
C-FJKP (marks reserved)
Lanark, Ontario
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=240056#240056
Message 24
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I'm in the process of making up a tool kit to keep in the airplane.
Since my S5 is already too heavy, I want the kit to be as complete as I
can make it yet keep it compact and light. I know, that's just like
building airplanes, a contradiction in terms.
Obviously it doesn't need to be complete enough to make a crankshaft
change or a valve job, but I would like it to be complete enough for
making simple repairs/checks on the ramp or to get out of trouble at
some remote place. I'll start out first with what I've put together and
hopefully some of you folks out there who have already done this will
chime in here. Feel free to add, comment, or laugh at my choices
because that's how we can all benefit from this.
8" vice grips
Combination screwdriver -- the type that has a hollow handle with
several different bits or something similar
Duct Tape
1/4" drive socket set, compact
Duct tape
8" crescent type wrench
Small roll of safety wire
Set of open end wrenches or something that would serve the purpose
Small canvas type bag to hold everything.
I can think of many more items I could throw in there, but I'm trying
avoid unnecessary items to keep the weight down. Of course, it's those
unnecessary items that I would probably need. Any help or advice would
be humbly appreciated, my friends.
Deke Morisse
Mikado Michigan
S5/Subaru/CAP 402+ TT
"The aim of an argument or discussion should not be victory, but
progress."
- Joseph Joubert
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: King Fox Tire Production Run - Pre Order NOW |
Lowell=2C Got to be the easiest method to measure toe ever. Love it.
Pat Reilly do not archive
> From: lcfitt@sbcglobal.net
> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Re: King Fox Tire Production Run - Pre Order NO
W
> Date: Sat=2C 18 Apr 2009 18:47:01 -0700
>
>
> James=2C
>
> The easiest way to get a feel for what you have is to put a piece of tape
> on the back tread of each tire at axle height. Put a pen mark on each tap
e
> and measure the distance between them. Then roll the airplane forward unt
il
> the marked tape is axle height and measure again. The measurement should
be
> the same or maybe a small fraction longer.
>
> Other ways are a bit more precise. In the factory article in the "Kitfox
> Times" a life time ago=2C called for putting a square on the axle and bey
ond
> that I get lost as there is significant camber on the axle and it makes a
ny
> measurement using the axle problematic. One sure fire way is to attach a
> laser pointer to the brake rotor with magnets and project a line fore and
> aft and do the measurements that way. Always keeping the laser pointer an
d
> any targets at the same height off the floor to eliminate camber errors.
> This method does require a bit of fabricating to get a device that puts t
he
> laser beams parallel on each rotor.
>
> Try the easy way first and see what you get.
>
> Lowell
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "WurlyBird" <james.t.trizzino@us.army.mil>
> To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Saturday=2C April 18=2C 2009 5:46 PM
> Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: King Fox Tire Production Run - Pre Order NOW
>
>
> > <james.t.trizzino@us.army.mil>
> >
> > So how do you check wheel alignment on a KF?
> >
> > --------
> > James
> > Kitfox 3 / 582 / GSC prop
> > Soloed the Kitfox yesterday!!!
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=239989#239989
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: Brake Bleeder |
This way will work just fine using the oil can method, but there is a
way you can avoid all that counting and making a mess from fluid coming up
out of the master cylinder and that's to put a small barb fitting into the
fill hole and run a long piece of clear tubing into a jar where you can see
it. This way you can keep pumping with the oil can and even if the master
cylinder over flows, it won't matter. Just don't make the mistake of
running out of fluid in the pumper.
Deke Morisse
Mikado Michigan
S5/Subaru/CAP 402+ TT
"The aim of an argument or discussion should not be victory, but progress."
- Joseph Joubert
...snip>
> As far as the first method is concerned, you don't have to have a hose
> and container on the reservoir either. Just have an empty reservoir to
> begin with, and check periodically for when the fluid is starting to get
> near the top. At this point, draw off some of the fluid from the
> reservoir, and continue (if necessary) to pump fluid into the bleeder
> valve. When all signs of air is gone from the lines (clear lines, I
> hope), the job is done....top off the reservoir, and test the brakes.
> I've done this potentially messy job alone and have not made a mess
> either on the ground or inside the plane....well, maybe a *little* mess
> on the ground, because the hose-to-bleeder screw connection sometimes is
> not absolutely leakproof and drips a bit.
>
> This is not a complicated job to do if you know how many pumps of the oil
> can will empty it, and how many pumps will overflow the reservoir. Don't
> exceed either of the numbers. Keep track of the number of pumps, and fill
> the pumper before you are pumping air, and empty the reservoir before it
> fills, and the job will be simple and clean.
>
> Lynn Matteson
> Kitfox IV Speedster, taildragger
> Jabiru 2200, #2062, 632.8 hrs
> Sensenich 62x46
> Electroair direct-fire ignition system
> Status: flying
>
>
> On Apr 19, 2009, at 12:55 PM, Noel Loveys wrote:
>
>> I, like most of us have been following this thread with a little
>> interest to see what direction it will take. While it is true that you
>> can do basically whatever you want with an amateur built plane there are
>> still recognized procedures for doing specific tasks.
>>
>>
>>
>> This is the one described in the Jeppsen A&P Technician Airframe
>> Textbook. After all the years they have been training A&Ps I guess they
>> have some idea what they are talking about.. Please pardon any typos
>> you find.
>
>
>
Message 27
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Pat, keep in mind that I said I was measuring the toe with skis on
the plane. This exaggerated the amount of apparent toe, as does the
method of using 2x4's....the longer the boards, the greater the
apparent amount of difference between the boards, but the greater the
accuracy. It would seem that the best method would be to use a board
of length "X" and measure the difference at both ends, then calculate
the angle of toe in/out. This would take the diameter of the tire out
of the equation.
It would be a simple matter to roll your plane backwards, take a
"board reading" , then roll the plane forwards about 10 feet and take
another measurement and compare. Just be sure to mark the boards
left, right, top, etc., to be sure that in case of board warp, wind,
or curve, that you're leveling the field so to speak. And be sure to
make a mark adjacent to the axle for reference. Let us know what you
find.
When I was working as a mechanic a century ago, I had access to a toe
gauge. It was a long telescoping metal tube which had a spring-loaded
end attached to it. The spring-loaded end was attached to a measuring
device with a pointer pointing to a ruler. If you pressed on the end,
the pointer would move along the ruler. There were also...at each end
of the device...a small chain about 6" long. If this device was
placed in between the front tires of the car, at the sidewall of the
tire, near the front of the tire, with the chains *just* touching the
ground, and the pointer set to zero, and the car rolled forward, the
devise would stay pressed between the tires and as the car was rolled
until the chains were again *just* touching the ground, this time at
the rear of the tires, and the ruler/pointer was read it would tell
you what the toe in/out of the car was at the time......WHEW! Lotta
imagination needed there...sorry. Nowadays steering components would
get in the way of being able to use such a device, so they (those
clever bastards) invented a front end alignment machine which does
the job without all these neat "garage sale" items....ah, progress,
you gotta love it. : )
Lynn Matteson
Kitfox IV Speedster, taildragger
Jabiru 2200, #2062, 632.8 hrs
Sensenich 62x46
Electroair direct-fire ignition system
Status: flying
On Apr 19, 2009, at 1:39 PM, patrick reilly wrote:
> Lynn, I know you are a hell of a mechanic, engineer and fabricator.
> But, are you sure the toe in measurements changed by
> 1 1/16 " by just rolling the plane forwards and backwards. Seems
> like something would have to be loose to vary that much. Also, How
> much toe in or out exists varies by how far from the axle you take
> the measurement. Is anybody taking the measurement from other than
> the plane of the axle on the outer circumference of the tire? A
> straight edge on the sides of the tire are great for determining
> toe in or out. But tell me if I am wrong, references on toe in or
> out are done at the tire outer circumference in the plane of the
> axle. Tire diameter would also affect the proper toe in or out.
>
> Pat Reilly
> Mod 3 582 Rebuild
> Rockford, IL
>
>
> > From: lynnmatt@jps.net
> > Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Toe in
> > Date: Sun, 19 Apr 2009 10:58:08 -0400
> > To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
> >
> >
> > A little more about wheel alignment....make sure that if you EVER
> > roll the plane backwards during this process, that you roll it
> > forwards for several feet so that the gear can normalize itself in
> > the forward direction before taking any more measurements. I've
> > helped on about 4 homebuilts, and this seems to always need to be
> > done. It certainly changes the alignment on my Grove gear-equipped
> > Kitfox taildragger. I'm pretty sure it has to do with the caster
> > effect when being rolled backwards that is "tweaking" the alignment
> > of the mains. I know that when I installed my first pair of wheel-
> > skis I thought I had the things toed out about an inch, but when I
> > rolled the plane forwards (on the wheels), everything came into
> > alignment and the apparent 1" toe-out became about 1/16" of toe-in.
> >
> >
> > Lynn Matteson
> > Kitfox IV Speedster, taildragger
> > Jabiru 2200, #2062, 630+ hrs
> > Sensenich 62x46
> > Electroair direct-fire ignition system
> > Status: flying
> >
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: Brake Bleeder |
Sorry, where I said master cylinder (below) I meant reservoir.
D
> This way will work just fine using the oil can method, but there is a
> way you can avoid all that counting and making a mess from fluid coming up
> out of the master cylinder and that's to put a small barb fitting into the
> fill hole and run a long piece of clear tubing into a jar where you can
> see it. This way you can keep pumping with the oil can and even if the
> master cylinder over flows, it won't matter. Just don't make the mistake
> of running out of fluid in the pumper.
> Deke Morisse
> Mikado Michigan
> S5/Subaru/CAP 402+ TT
> "The aim of an argument or discussion should not be victory, but
> progress."
> - Joseph Joubert
>
> ...snip>
>> As far as the first method is concerned, you don't have to have a hose
>> and container on the reservoir either. Just have an empty reservoir to
>> begin with, and check periodically for when the fluid is starting to get
>> near the top. At this point, draw off some of the fluid from the
>> reservoir, and continue (if necessary) to pump fluid into the bleeder
>> valve. When all signs of air is gone from the lines (clear lines, I
>> hope), the job is done....top off the reservoir, and test the brakes.
>> I've done this potentially messy job alone and have not made a mess
>> either on the ground or inside the plane....well, maybe a *little* mess
>> on the ground, because the hose-to-bleeder screw connection sometimes is
>> not absolutely leakproof and drips a bit.
>>
>> This is not a complicated job to do if you know how many pumps of the
>> oil can will empty it, and how many pumps will overflow the reservoir.
>> Don't exceed either of the numbers. Keep track of the number of pumps,
>> and fill the pumper before you are pumping air, and empty the reservoir
>> before it fills, and the job will be simple and clean.
>>
>> Lynn Matteson
>> Kitfox IV Speedster, taildragger
>> Jabiru 2200, #2062, 632.8 hrs
>> Sensenich 62x46
>> Electroair direct-fire ignition system
>> Status: flying
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Apr 19, 2009, at 12:55 PM, Noel Loveys wrote:
>>
>>> I, like most of us have been following this thread with a little
>>> interest to see what direction it will take. While it is true that you
>>> can do basically whatever you want with an amateur built plane there
>>> are still recognized procedures for doing specific tasks.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> This is the one described in the Jeppsen A&P Technician Airframe
>>> Textbook. After all the years they have been training A&Ps I guess
>>> they have some idea what they are talking about.. Please pardon any
>>> typos you find.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
Message 29
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| Subject: | Re: Sight guages |
Our Vixen had the original hard plastic sight gauges. No problemuntil they emptied
about 20 gallons of fuel in the hanger! I have attached pictures of my mods.
I replaced the existing with brass barbed fittings. I used the clear Tygon
tubing. Inside is a piece of 12 gauge copper wire (regular house type wire).
It helps to hold the shape and also makes seeing the fuel level easier.
Prior to installing the barbed fittings, I inserted a stainless screw into the
backside of the fitting and this is used as a dampener (so the fuel moves slowly
in and out of the sight gaugemakes for a more stable reading). The copper
wire goes inside the barbed fitting. Almost 250 hours with this set-up and
I am still happy. I change the tubing annually.
Travis :D
--------
Travis Rayner
Mobile, AL
Skystar Vixen, N-789DF
Continental IO-240, Prince P-Tip Prop
ADI-II Autopilot
AnyWhereMap Navigation with weather
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=240129#240129
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/fuel_sight_guage06_790.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/fuel_sight_guage10_115.jpg
Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: Sun 'n' Fun....Paradise City |
Last year we flew into the Ultralight area. Always liked the UL area much better
than the Homebuilt area for camping, access, etc. We have flown in and out
of there many times in years pastbut this was the first time in the Vixen. No
problems. I hate we wont be able to make this year. We have plans to be at
High Valley Resort in north Georgia that weekend. I have several pictures and
diagrams of routing into the UL area at SNF. I put these together for some
of our local folks that are flying down. I will post them. ...hope they are
helpful.
Travis :D
--------
Travis Rayner
Mobile, AL
Skystar Vixen, N-789DF
Continental IO-240, Prince P-Tip Prop
ADI-II Autopilot
AnyWhereMap Navigation with weather
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=240137#240137
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/picture1_206.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/snf_ul_4_210.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/snf_ul_3_991.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/snf_ul_2_757.jpg
Message 31
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| Subject: | Optical Low Fuel Sensor |
This is in the archives, I did a quick search, but is worth asking
again.
I have the optical sensor Skystar supplied some time back.
The part number is VP03E which from the Carlo Gavazzi datasheet is a
Polymide 12 plastic.
In a web search I see mixed data for this plastic when used with
ethanol.
I'm redoing my header system due to an engine swap and want a low fuel
warning. Is it OK to use or should I junk it and get something else?
Is there any hard data one way or the other?
Thanks,
Mark Napier
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kitfox-List
Digest Server
Sent: Sunday, April 19, 2009 2:59 AM
Subject: Kitfox-List Digest: 19 Msgs - 04/18/09
*
=================================================
Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
=================================================
Today's complete Kitfox-List Digest can also be found in either of the
two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest
formatted
in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes
and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version
of the Kitfox-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text editor
such as Notepad or with a web browser.
HTML Version:
http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=html&Cha
pter 09-04-18&Archive=Kitfox
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ter 09-04-18&Archive=Kitfox
===============================================
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===============================================
----------------------------------------------------------
Kitfox-List Digest Archive
---
Total Messages Posted Sat 04/18/09: 19
----------------------------------------------------------
Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:21 AM - Re: King Fox Tire Production Run - Pre Order NOW
(dave)
2. 03:23 AM - Re: Updated Web Site (dave)
3. 03:28 AM - Re: Brake Bleeder (dave)
4. 06:27 AM - Re: Sun 'n' Fun....Paradise City (yodaone)
5. 08:37 AM - Re: Re: King Fox Tire Production Run - Pre Order NOW
(Lowell Fitt)
6. 09:03 AM - Re: Re: Updated Web Site (Lowell Fitt)
7. 01:32 PM - Brake Lines (Ken Potter)
8. 03:02 PM - Re: Brake Lines (Larry Huntley)
9. 04:17 PM - Re: Brake Lines (fox5flyer)
10. 04:49 PM - Re: Brake Lines (Larry Huntley)
11. 05:40 PM - Re: Brake Bleeder (WurlyBird)
12. 05:46 PM - Re: King Fox Tire Production Run - Pre Order NOW
(WurlyBird)
13. 05:49 PM - Re: Brake Lines (Lowell Fitt)
14. 06:48 PM - Re: Re: King Fox Tire Production Run - Pre Order NOW
(Lowell Fitt)
15. 07:50 PM - Re: Brake Bleeder (dave)
16. 07:55 PM - Re: Brake Lines (dave)
17. 07:57 PM - Re: Updated Web Site (dave)
18. 08:41 PM - Re: Brake Bleeder (rawheels)
19. 08:49 PM - Re: Re: Brake Bleeder (Lynn Matteson)
________________________________ Message 1
_____________________________________
Time: 03:21:25 AM PST US
Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: King Fox Tire Production Run - Pre Order NOW
From: "dave" <dave@cfisher.com>
Mal,
I not sure what you did to wear our your tires. I never heard of this
before.
I would suspect asphalt would wear them quicker. If you operating off
of paved
I would either expect more wear on any tire you use and if you want
better
wear go to a 16.5 or 18.5 golf cart tire.
I have put the King fox through their paces, Water, sand rocks dirt,
Mud, Water
deep mud 12 " deep, corn stubble with no wear or punctures yet. I
would
be careful in corn stubble though.
Check out my videos, you will see that mine are mostly off pavement so
that would
be the biggest wear factor and likely why i don;t get the wear.
Big thing is that these tires are available again thanks to Kevin.
--------
Rotax Dealer, Ontario Canada
http://www.cfisher.com/
Awesome *New Forum *
http://rotaxaircraft.com/forum/
Realtime Kitfox movies to separate the internet chatter from the truth
http://www.youtube.com/profile_videos?user=kitfoxflyer
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=239863#239863
________________________________ Message 2
_____________________________________
Time: 03:23:38 AM PST US
Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: Updated Web Site
From: "dave" <dave@cfisher.com>
Lowell,
Great looking gear there. What is the exact weight difference between
the new
gear and tube bungee OEM gear ? Without fairings.
Have you tested these in off runway conditions ?
What is selling price as well.
Keep up the good work
Dave
--------
Rotax Dealer, Ontario Canada
http://www.cfisher.com/
Awesome *New Forum *
http://rotaxaircraft.com/forum/
Realtime Kitfox movies to separate the internet chatter from the truth
http://www.youtube.com/profile_videos?user=kitfoxflyer
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=239864#239864
________________________________ Message 3
_____________________________________
Time: 03:28:24 AM PST US
Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: Brake Bleeder
From: "dave" <dave@cfisher.com>
WurlyBird wrote:
> So would one not want to use a vacuum bleed system like the one I have
for cars
and motorcycles?
Easier to pump from bleeder up. Takes a minute per wheel.
Plus how you gonna bleed air out of caliper if bleeder is at bottom ?
Dave
--------
Rotax Dealer, Ontario Canada
http://www.cfisher.com/
Awesome *New Forum *
http://rotaxaircraft.com/forum/
Realtime Kitfox movies to separate the internet chatter from the truth
http://www.youtube.com/profile_videos?user=kitfoxflyer
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=239866#239866
________________________________ Message 4
_____________________________________
Time: 06:27:06 AM PST US
Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: Sun 'n' Fun....Paradise City
From: "yodaone" <yodaone@comcast.net>
I will be there on Sunday and usually park in the Home built aircraft
field.
Will stay till Saturday.
I always do the War-bird south arrival and land on the grass strip.
Basically come from due south of the airport and then head north.
Join the traffic pattern for the flybys/bi-plane and land on the grass
strip next
to 9R.
Most of the time I don't communicate with any one.
This also works for the Paradise city arrival/departure.
Get right in and minimal taxi.
Here's a link to SNF arrival.
http://www.faaproductionstudios.com//SNF%20Arrival%20Proceedures%20Notam
/2009%20SUN%20N%20FUN%20NOTAM%20final%20color.pdf
--------
1991 Kitfox IV 1050LB
Rotax 912UL
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=239888#239888
________________________________ Message 5
_____________________________________
Time: 08:37:27 AM PST US
From: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Re: King Fox Tire Production Run - Pre Order
NOW
I agree with Dave. I suspect if you are having wear problems, it might
be
due to wheel alignment. The early bungee gear were notorious for being
toed
in which also resulted in the squirrily reputation the airplanes had.
The
Lancair guy I helped build his IV had severe tire wear until he shimmed
the
axles to get straight tracking.
Lowell
----- Original Message -----
From: "dave" <dave@cfisher.com>
Sent: Saturday, April 18, 2009 3:20 AM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: King Fox Tire Production Run - Pre Order NOW
>
> Mal,
>
> I not sure what you did to wear our your tires. I never heard of this
> before. I would suspect asphalt would wear them quicker. If you
> operating off of paved I would either expect more wear on any tire you
use
> and if you want better wear go to a 16.5 or 18.5 golf cart tire.
>
> I have put the King fox through their paces, Water, sand rocks dirt,
Mud,
> Water deep mud 12 " deep, corn stubble with no wear or punctures
yet.
> I would be careful in corn stubble though.
>
> Check out my videos, you will see that mine are mostly off pavement so
> that would be the biggest wear factor and likely why i don;t get the
wear.
>
> Big thing is that these tires are available again thanks to Kevin.
>
> --------
> Rotax Dealer, Ontario Canada
> http://www.cfisher.com/
> Awesome *New Forum *
> http://rotaxaircraft.com/forum/
> Realtime Kitfox movies to separate the internet chatter from the
truth
> http://www.youtube.com/profile_videos?user=kitfoxflyer
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=239863#239863
>
>
>
________________________________ Message 6
_____________________________________
Time: 09:03:28 AM PST US
From: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Re: Updated Web Site
Dave,
We have no heavy off airport experience with this gear design. My
original
bungee gear weighs 9 lbs. bare naked - with bungees but without axles.
Our
gear weighs 17 lbs in the same confuguration and the original axles,
wheels
and brakes are re-used. The price is $1275 without fairings. The
fairings add $250 and they are pre formed and predrilled.
Lowell
----- Original Message -----
From: "dave" <dave@cfisher.com>
Sent: Saturday, April 18, 2009 3:23 AM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: Updated Web Site
>
> Lowell,
>
> Great looking gear there. What is the exact weight difference between
the
> new gear and tube bungee OEM gear ? Without fairings.
>
> Have you tested these in off runway conditions ?
>
> What is selling price as well.
>
>
> Keep up the good work
>
> Dave
>
> --------
> Rotax Dealer, Ontario Canada
> http://www.cfisher.com/
> Awesome *New Forum *
> http://rotaxaircraft.com/forum/
> Realtime Kitfox movies to separate the internet chatter from the
truth
> http://www.youtube.com/profile_videos?user=kitfoxflyer
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=239864#239864
>
>
>
________________________________ Message 7
_____________________________________
Time: 01:32:27 PM PST US
Subject: Kitfox-List: Brake Lines
From: "Ken Potter" <kjpotter@sympatico.ca>
Hi Folks;
I'm ready to install brake lines in my Model II. The lines supplied
with the kit
are a plastic material. Question, all of the certified aircraft I've
flown
had solid metallic brake lines. Are these plastic lines, supplied with
the kit
20 years ago kosher or are there updated lightweight lines available??
Cheers
Ken
--------
Ken Potter
Model II, No. 483
Rotax 582, C-Box,
98% Complete
C-FJKP (marks reserved)
Lanark, Ontario
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=239945#239945
________________________________ Message 8
_____________________________________
Time: 03:02:17 PM PST US
From: "Larry Huntley" <asq@roadrunner.com>
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Brake Lines
I used mine for 120 yrs and 500 hrs. When I recovered the fuselage this
winter I bought new ones from John McBean. They are cheap. Old ones were
a
bit brittle.
Larry Huntley
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken Potter" <kjpotter@sympatico.ca>
Sent: Saturday, April 18, 2009 4:31 PM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Brake Lines
>
> Hi Folks;
>
> I'm ready to install brake lines in my Model II. The lines supplied
with
> the kit are a plastic material. Question, all of the certified
aircraft
> I've flown had solid metallic brake lines. Are these plastic lines,
> supplied with the kit 20 years ago kosher or are there updated
lightweight
> lines available??
>
> Cheers
>
> Ken
>
> --------
> Ken Potter
> Model II, No. 483
> Rotax 582, C-Box,
> 98% Complete
> C-FJKP (marks reserved)
> Lanark, Ontario
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=239945#239945
>
>
------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
09:55:00
________________________________ Message 9
_____________________________________
Time: 04:17:33 PM PST US
From: "fox5flyer" <fox5flyer@idealwifi.net>
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Brake Lines
After that long I would expect them to be brittle. That is definitely
something for the record books, Larry. :-)
Deke
do not archive
>
> I used mine for 120 yrs and 500 hrs. When I recovered the fuselage
this
> winter I bought new ones from John McBean. They are cheap. Old ones
were a
> bit brittle.
>
> Larry Huntley
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ken Potter" <kjpotter@sympatico.ca>
> To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Saturday, April 18, 2009 4:31 PM
> Subject: Kitfox-List: Brake Lines
>
>
>>
>> Hi Folks;
>>
>> I'm ready to install brake lines in my Model II. The lines supplied
with
>> the kit are a plastic material. Question, all of the certified
aircraft
>> I've flown had solid metallic brake lines. Are these plastic lines,
>> supplied with the kit 20 years ago kosher or are there updated
>> lightweight lines available??
>>
>> Cheers
>>
>> Ken
>>
>> --------
>> Ken Potter
>> Model II, No. 483
>> Rotax 582, C-Box,
>> 98% Complete
>> C-FJKP (marks reserved)
>> Lanark, Ontario
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=239945#239945
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------
>
>
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> 09:55:00
>
>
>
________________________________ Message 10
____________________________________
Time: 04:49:47 PM PST US
From: "Larry Huntley" <asq@roadrunner.com>
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Brake Lines
Well, It might be a little exaggeration Deke, but we are amongst
feathered
bretheren here. ;o) Has been 10 yrs though. Larry
----- Original Message -----
From: "fox5flyer" <fox5flyer@idealwifi.net>
Sent: Saturday, April 18, 2009 7:17 PM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Brake Lines
>
> After that long I would expect them to be brittle. That is definitely
> something for the record books, Larry. :-)
> Deke
> do not archive
>
>
>>
>> I used mine for 120 yrs and 500 hrs. When I recovered the fuselage
this
>> winter I bought new ones from John McBean. They are cheap. Old ones
were
>> a
>> bit brittle.
>>
>> Larry Huntley
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Ken Potter" <kjpotter@sympatico.ca>
>> To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
>> Sent: Saturday, April 18, 2009 4:31 PM
>> Subject: Kitfox-List: Brake Lines
>>
>>
>>>
>>> Hi Folks;
>>>
>>> I'm ready to install brake lines in my Model II. The lines supplied
>>> with
>>> the kit are a plastic material. Question, all of the certified
aircraft
>>> I've flown had solid metallic brake lines. Are these plastic lines,
>>> supplied with the kit 20 years ago kosher or are there updated
>>> lightweight lines available??
>>>
>>> Cheers
>>>
>>> Ken
>>>
>>> --------
>>> Ken Potter
>>> Model II, No. 483
>>> Rotax 582, C-Box,
>>> 98% Complete
>>> C-FJKP (marks reserved)
>>> Lanark, Ontario
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>
>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=239945#239945
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------
>>
>>
>>
>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>> 09:55:00
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
09:55:00
________________________________ Message 11
____________________________________
Time: 05:40:23 PM PST US
Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: Brake Bleeder
From: "WurlyBird" <james.t.trizzino@us.army.mil>
The bleeder for all brake systems is on the bottom. A vacuum system
simply hooks
to the bleeder and creates a vacuum and pulls all the fluid AND AIR out
through
the bottom. So all you have to do is create a vacuum and then make sure
you keep the reservoir full and voila, nice fresh fluid, no bubbles.
--------
James
Kitfox 3 / 582 / GSC prop
Soloed the Kitfox yesterday!!!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=239987#239987
________________________________ Message 12
____________________________________
Time: 05:46:39 PM PST US
Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: King Fox Tire Production Run - Pre Order NOW
From: "WurlyBird" <james.t.trizzino@us.army.mil>
So how do you check wheel alignment on a KF?
--------
James
Kitfox 3 / 582 / GSC prop
Soloed the Kitfox yesterday!!!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=239989#239989
________________________________ Message 13
____________________________________
Time: 05:49:54 PM PST US
From: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Brake Lines
Ken,
The Nyla-Flow tubing included with the kits it the thing to use. You
might
want to check it out a bit as it appears to be pretty old. Read about
it on
the Aircraft Spruce website or their catalogue. It is standard on most
kitplanes, including the Lancair.
Lowell
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken Potter" <kjpotter@sympatico.ca>
Sent: Saturday, April 18, 2009 1:31 PM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Brake Lines
>
> Hi Folks;
>
> I'm ready to install brake lines in my Model II. The lines supplied
with
> the kit are a plastic material. Question, all of the certified
aircraft
> I've flown had solid metallic brake lines. Are these plastic lines,
> supplied with the kit 20 years ago kosher or are there updated
lightweight
> lines available??
>
> Cheers
>
> Ken
>
> --------
> Ken Potter
> Model II, No. 483
> Rotax 582, C-Box,
> 98% Complete
> C-FJKP (marks reserved)
> Lanark, Ontario
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=239945#239945
>
>
>
________________________________ Message 14
____________________________________
Time: 06:48:50 PM PST US
From: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Re: King Fox Tire Production Run - Pre Order
NOW
James,
The easiest way to get a feel for what you have is to put a piece of
tape
on the back tread of each tire at axle height. Put a pen mark on each
tape
and measure the distance between them. Then roll the airplane forward
until
the marked tape is axle height and measure again. The measurement
should be
the same or maybe a small fraction longer.
Other ways are a bit more precise. In the factory article in the
"Kitfox
Times" a life time ago, called for putting a square on the axle and
beyond
that I get lost as there is significant camber on the axle and it makes
any
measurement using the axle problematic. One sure fire way is to attach
a
laser pointer to the brake rotor with magnets and project a line fore
and
aft and do the measurements that way. Always keeping the laser pointer
and
any targets at the same height off the floor to eliminate camber errors.
This method does require a bit of fabricating to get a device that puts
the
laser beams parallel on each rotor.
Try the easy way first and see what you get.
Lowell
----- Original Message -----
From: "WurlyBird" <james.t.trizzino@us.army.mil>
Sent: Saturday, April 18, 2009 5:46 PM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: King Fox Tire Production Run - Pre Order NOW
> <james.t.trizzino@us.army.mil>
>
> So how do you check wheel alignment on a KF?
>
> --------
> James
> Kitfox 3 / 582 / GSC prop
> Soloed the Kitfox yesterday!!!
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=239989#239989
>
>
>
________________________________ Message 15
____________________________________
Time: 07:50:02 PM PST US
Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: Brake Bleeder
From: "dave" <dave@cfisher.com>
WurlyBird wrote:
> The bleeder for all brake systems is on the bottom. A vacuum system
simply hooks
to the bleeder and creates a vacuum and pulls all the fluid AND AIR out
through
the bottom. So all you have to do is create a vacuum and then make sure
you keep the reservoir full and voila, nice fresh fluid, no bubbles.
Well, air rises and there is no way in hell that will work. I have
been a licensed
Mechanic for over 30 years. Autos that you are thinking of the bleeders
are on the top. Brake system totally different on our Kitfox's . There
are no
proportioning valves or ABS brakes . LOL
Now if you invert your calipers then maybe it might work. But why
re-invent the
wheel when it ain't busted ?
In the time it took my to write this post , you could have both sides
bleed the
proper way , from the bottom up.
--------
Rotax Dealer, Ontario Canada
http://www.cfisher.com/
Awesome *New Forum *
http://rotaxaircraft.com/forum/
Realtime Kitfox movies to separate the internet chatter from the truth
http://www.youtube.com/profile_videos?user=kitfoxflyer
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=240014#240014
________________________________ Message 16
____________________________________
Time: 07:55:23 PM PST US
Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: Brake Lines
From: "dave" <dave@cfisher.com>
I would buy new line, Just bend it 90 degrees and see what happens, it
gets brittle.
ACS will have the proper nuts and sleeves that go inside. I bought my
last bunch
from Wicks and have to re-order soon, let me know if ACS in Brantford
has
them . Also , Leavens might have them too. Don;t order US unless they
will ship
via postal unless you ready to get shafted by customs brokers like Fed
EX.
A 300 $ US order might turn into 500 or 600$ CDN quickly.
KEn, What prop did you go with ?
Dave
--------
Rotax Dealer, Ontario Canada
http://www.cfisher.com/
Awesome *New Forum *
http://rotaxaircraft.com/forum/
Realtime Kitfox movies to separate the internet chatter from the truth
http://www.youtube.com/profile_videos?user=kitfoxflyer
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=240018#240018
________________________________ Message 17
____________________________________
Time: 07:57:37 PM PST US
Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: Updated Web Site
From: "dave" <dave@cfisher.com>
Lowell , Great update and great looking gear. Glad you finally posted
that they
are a tad heavier than tube gear , Dick must have weighed them not
naked ?
Anyhow still cheaper and better looking than a Grove gear. But more
drag as
per Dick ?
Dave
lcfitt(at)sbcglobal.net wrote:
> Dave,
>
> We have no heavy off airport experience with this gear design. My
original
> bungee gear weighs 9 lbs. bare naked - with bungees but without
axles. Our
> gear weighs 17 lbs in the same confuguration and the original axles,
wheels
> and brakes are re-used. The price is $1275 without fairings. The
> fairings add $250 and they are pre formed and predrilled.
>
> Lowell
>
> ---
--------
Rotax Dealer, Ontario Canada
http://www.cfisher.com/
Awesome *New Forum *
http://rotaxaircraft.com/forum/
Realtime Kitfox movies to separate the internet chatter from the truth
http://www.youtube.com/profile_videos?user=kitfoxflyer
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=240019#240019
________________________________ Message 18
____________________________________
Time: 08:41:29 PM PST US
Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: Brake Bleeder
From: "rawheels" <rawheels@yahoo.com>
dave wrote:
> air rises and there is no way in hell that will work.
WurlyBird,
I've used those, and they do work, but the other way is a lot easier and
reliably
successful in my opinion. Most EAA clubs, FBO's, or neighbor hangars
will
probably have some sort of pressure system you could borrow. However,
you CAN
try whatever you want. That is what this is all about.
There are two possible issues with the vacuum I can think of:
First, not all master cylinders will allow positive pressure in that
direction.
All will allow fluid to move freely at low pressure, and somewhat higher
pressure
in the upward direction (so the brakes don't lock up if the fluid
expands
rapidly). Guess you'd just have to try it out to know.
Second, it might be harder than you think to keep the reservoir filled.
On a car,
motorcycle, or even a Piper aircraft there is pretty nice access to the
reservoir.
So keeping it full is pretty easy. When all you have is a small 10-24
screw hole like on these or a Cessna, it is nearly impossible to monitor
the
fluid level easily.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=240027#240027
________________________________ Message 19
____________________________________
Time: 08:49:15 PM PST US
From: Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt@jps.net>
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Re: Brake Bleeder
So as not to display the arrogance of another responder, James, I'll
just say that all the bleeders I've dealt with over the years have
been automotive, and all have been on the top of the individual wheel
cylinders, because air rises. When the brake pedal is depressed, the
fluid and any air contained therein will travel out to the wheel
cylinders, where the air will rise to the top where it can be bled
off. Other brake systems may use a different scenario, Kitfox
included, but it is safe to say that the bleeder is not on the bottom
"for all brake systems."
Lynn Matteson
Kitfox IV Speedster, taildragger
Jabiru 2200, #2062, 628.1 hrs
Sensenich 62x46
Electroair direct-fire ignition system
Status: flying
do not archive
On Apr 18, 2009, at 8:39 PM, WurlyBird wrote:
> <james.t.trizzino@us.army.mil>
>
> The bleeder for all brake systems is on the bottom. A vacuum
> system simply hooks to the bleeder and creates a vacuum and pulls
> all the fluid AND AIR out through the bottom. So all you have to
> do is create a vacuum and then make sure you keep the reservoir
> full and voila, nice fresh fluid, no bubbles.
>
> --------
> James
> Kitfox 3 / 582 / GSC prop
> Soloed the Kitfox yesterday!!!
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=239987#239987
>
>
Message 32
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| Subject: | Re: Sight guages |
Travis, that is pretty much the same thing that John Mc at KitfoxAircraft
sells and what I am also using. Works great, but I didn't use any sort of
dampener and after several years and lots of hours it doesn't seem to cause
much of a problem as it quickly returns to it's normal level, something I
didn't care for when I used the dampened, kit supplied units. Phew, long
sentence!
What I'd like is to find some clear tubing that won't discolor so quickly
and will last a few years as other than the discoloration I can't see much
reason to replace it annually. Mostly, it gets hard to read, especially in
low light, but remains pliable.
Deke Morisse
Mikado Michigan
S5/Subaru/CAP 402+ TT
"The aim of an argument or discussion should not be victory, but progress."
- Joseph Joubert
----- Original Message -----
From: "FlyboyTR" <flyboytr@bellsouth.net>
Sent: Sunday, April 19, 2009 3:29 PM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: Sight guages
>
> Our Vixen had the original hard plastic sight gauges. No problem?until
> they emptied about 20 gallons of fuel in the hanger! I have attached
> pictures of my mods. I replaced the existing with brass ? barbed
> fittings. I used the clear Tygon tubing. Inside is a piece of 12 gauge
> copper wire (regular house type wire). It helps to hold the shape and
> also makes seeing the fuel level easier. Prior to installing the barbed
> fittings, I inserted a stainless screw into the backside of the fitting
> and this is used as a dampener (so the fuel moves slowly in and out of the
> sight gauge?makes for a more stable reading). The copper wire goes
> inside the barbed fitting. Almost 250 hours with this set-up and I am
> still happy. I change the tubing annually.
>
> Travis :D
>
> --------
> Travis Rayner
> Mobile, AL
> Skystar Vixen, N-789DF
> Continental IO-240, Prince P-Tip Prop
> ADI-II Autopilot
> AnyWhereMap Navigation with weather
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=240129#240129
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/fuel_sight_guage06_790.jpg
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/fuel_sight_guage10_115.jpg
>
>
>
Message 33
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| Subject: | Re: Sight guages |
Deke,
Yep...simple system that works! All I use is 100LL. They still turn dark but
I don't think it is as bad as it is with autofuel. Some of the local guys with
UL's use the same tubing (with autofuel) and theirs get darker much quicker
than mine. I use the same Tygon clear tubing for my vent line from my header
tank to the right tank. I sure which we could find a thick-walled clear tubing
that help up good and wouldn't get dark. ...still looking!
Travis :D
--------
Travis Rayner
Mobile, AL
Skystar Vixen, N-789DF
Continental IO-240, Prince P-Tip Prop
ADI-II Autopilot
AnyWhereMap Navigation with weather
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=240153#240153
Message 34
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A few more items =C2-in my kit are:
=C2-=C2- tywraps of various sizes
=C2-=C2- exhaust system springs
=C2-=C2- carb boots (I've got a 582)
=C2-=C2- multi-tool like a Leatherman
=C2-=C2- a credit card
=C2-=C2- and you can never have too much duct tape!
Mike
490MC
----- Original Message -----
From: "fox5flyer" <fox5flyer@idealwifi.net>
Sent: Sunday, April 19, 2009 2:26:55 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern
Subject: Kitfox-List: Tool Kit
I'm in the process of making up a tool kit to keep in the airplane.=C2- S
ince my S5 is already too heavy, I want the kit to be as complete as I can
make it yet keep it compact and light.=C2- I know, that's just like build
ing airplanes, a contradiction in terms.
Obviously it doesn't need to be complete enough to make a crankshaft change
or a valve job, but I would like it to be complete enough for making simpl
e repairs/checks on the ramp or to get out of trouble at some remote place.
=C2- I'll start out first with what I've put together and hopefully some
of you folks out there who have already done this will chime in here.=C2-
Feel free to add, comment, or laugh at my choices because that's how we ca
n all benefit from this.
=C2-=C2-=C2- 8" vice grips
=C2-=C2-=C2- Combination screwdriver -- the type that has a hollow ha
ndle with several different bits or something similar
=C2-=C2-=C2- Duct Tape
=C2-=C2-=C2- 1/4" drive socket set, compact
=C2-=C2-=C2- Duct tape
=C2-=C2-=C2- 8" crescent type wrench
=C2-=C2-=C2- Small roll of safety wire
=C2-=C2-=C2- Set of open end wrenches or something that would serve t
he purpose
=C2-=C2-=C2- Small canvas type bag to hold everything.
=C2-=C2-=C2-
I can think of many more items I could throw in there, but I'm trying avoid
unnecessary items to keep the weight down.=C2- Of course, it's those unn
ecessary items that I would probably need.=C2- Any help or advice would b
e humbly appreciated, my friends.
Deke Morisse
Mikado Michigan
S5/Subaru/CAP 402+ TT
"The aim of an argument or discussion should not be victory, but progress."
- Joseph Joubert
=C2-
=C2-=C2-=C2-
=C2-=C2-=C2-
==
Message 35
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Lynn=2C OK=2C your toe did not vary by 1 1/16" then. You were not measuring
at the tire circumference. The 1st time I ever got involved on toe in was
helping an army buddy of mine check his road racing Corvette front end at t
he track before the race. He got the car on smooth level blacktop=2C rolled
it backward and forward=2C put oil cans=2C remember those=2C in front of t
he tire=2C we measured at a tread on top of the can=2C moved to the back of
the tire at oil can height and measured on the same tread. He said it didn
't have to be exact as long as it didn't toe out and had a small amount of
toe in. From oil can height the toe in amount would be significantly greate
r at axle height. Chuck remember that at Meadowdale Raceway?
do not archive
Pat Reilly
Mod 3 582 Rebuild
Rockford=2C IL
> From: lynnmatt@jps.net
> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Toe in
> Date: Sun=2C 19 Apr 2009 14:34:25 -0400
> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
>
>
> Pat=2C keep in mind that I said I was measuring the toe with skis on
> the plane. This exaggerated the amount of apparent toe=2C as does the
> method of using 2x4's....the longer the boards=2C the greater the
> apparent amount of difference between the boards=2C but the greater the
> accuracy. It would seem that the best method would be to use a board
> of length "X" and measure the difference at both ends=2C then calculate
> the angle of toe in/out. This would take the diameter of the tire out
> of the equation.
>
> It would be a simple matter to roll your plane backwards=2C take a
> "board reading" =2C then roll the plane forwards about 10 feet and take
> another measurement and compare. Just be sure to mark the boards
> left=2C right=2C top=2C etc.=2C to be sure that in case of board warp=2C
wind=2C
> or curve=2C that you're leveling the field so to speak. And be sure to
> make a mark adjacent to the axle for reference. Let us know what you
> find.
>
> When I was working as a mechanic a century ago=2C I had access to a toe
> gauge. It was a long telescoping metal tube which had a spring-loaded
> end attached to it. The spring-loaded end was attached to a measuring
> device with a pointer pointing to a ruler. If you pressed on the end=2C
> the pointer would move along the ruler. There were also...at each end
> of the device...a small chain about 6" long. If this device was
> placed in between the front tires of the car=2C at the sidewall of the
> tire=2C near the front of the tire=2C with the chains *just* touching the
> ground=2C and the pointer set to zero=2C and the car rolled forward=2C th
e
> devise would stay pressed between the tires and as the car was rolled
> until the chains were again *just* touching the ground=2C this time at
> the rear of the tires=2C and the ruler/pointer was read it would tell
> you what the toe in/out of the car was at the time......WHEW! Lotta
> imagination needed there...sorry. Nowadays steering components would
> get in the way of being able to use such a device=2C so they (those
> clever bastards) invented a front end alignment machine which does
> the job without all these neat "garage sale" items....ah=2C progress=2C
> you gotta love it. : )
>
> Lynn Matteson
> Kitfox IV Speedster=2C taildragger
> Jabiru 2200=2C #2062=2C 632.8 hrs
> Sensenich 62x46
> Electroair direct-fire ignition system
> Status: flying
>
>
>
>
> On Apr 19=2C 2009=2C at 1:39 PM=2C patrick reilly wrote:
>
> > Lynn=2C I know you are a hell of a mechanic=2C engineer and fabricator.
> > But=2C are you sure the toe in measurements changed by
> > 1 1/16 " by just rolling the plane forwards and backwards. Seems
> > like something would have to be loose to vary that much. Also=2C How
> > much toe in or out exists varies by how far from the axle you take
> > the measurement. Is anybody taking the measurement from other than
> > the plane of the axle on the outer circumference of the tire? A
> > straight edge on the sides of the tire are great for determining
> > toe in or out. But tell me if I am wrong=2C references on toe in or
> > out are done at the tire outer circumference in the plane of the
> > axle. Tire diameter would also affect the proper toe in or out.
> >
> > Pat Reilly
> > Mod 3 582 Rebuild
> > Rockford=2C IL
> >
> >
> > > From: lynnmatt@jps.net
> > > Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Toe in
> > > Date: Sun=2C 19 Apr 2009 10:58:08 -0400
> > > To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
> > >
> > >
> > > A little more about wheel alignment....make sure that if you EVER
> > > roll the plane backwards during this process=2C that you roll it
> > > forwards for several feet so that the gear can normalize itself in
> > > the forward direction before taking any more measurements. I've
> > > helped on about 4 homebuilts=2C and this seems to always need to be
> > > done. It certainly changes the alignment on my Grove gear-equipped
> > > Kitfox taildragger. I'm pretty sure it has to do with the caster
> > > effect when being rolled backwards that is "tweaking" the alignment
> > > of the mains. I know that when I installed my first pair of wheel-
> > > skis I thought I had the things toed out about an inch=2C but when I
> > > rolled the plane forwards (on the wheels)=2C everything came into
> > > alignment and the apparent 1" toe-out became about 1/16" of toe-in.
> > >
> > >
> > > Lynn Matteson
> > > Kitfox IV Speedster=2C taildragger
> > > Jabiru 2200=2C #2062=2C 630+ hrs
> > > Sensenich 62x46
> > > Electroair direct-fire ignition system
> > > Status: flying
> > >
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
Message 36
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Good one. I like the tie wraps and leatherman.
Thanks.
Keep 'em coming folks. Maybe we can come up with the ideal tool kit.
Deke
----- Original Message -----
From: skyflyte@comcast.net
To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, April 19, 2009 5:27 PM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Tool Kit
A few more items in my kit are:
tywraps of various sizes
exhaust system springs
carb boots (I've got a 582)
multi-tool like a Leatherman
a credit card
and you can never have too much duct tape!
Mike
490MC
----- Original Message -----
From: "fox5flyer" <fox5flyer@idealwifi.net>
To: "Kitfox List" <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Sunday, April 19, 2009 2:26:55 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern
Subject: Kitfox-List: Tool Kit
I'm in the process of making up a tool kit to keep in the airplane.
Since my S5 is already too heavy, I want the kit to be as complete as I
can make it yet keep it compact and light. I know, that's just like
building airplanes, a contradiction in terms.
Obviously it doesn't need to be complete enough to make a crankshaft
change or a valve job, but I would like it to be complete enough for
making simple repairs/checks on the ramp or to get out of trouble at
some remote place. I'll start out first with what I've put together and
hopefully some of you folks out there who have already done this will
chime in here. Feel free to add, comment, or laugh at my choices
because that's how we can all benefit from this.
8" vice grips
Combination screwdriver -- the type that has a hollow handle with
several different bits or something similar
Duct Tape
1/4" drive socket set, compact
Duct tape
8" crescent type wrench
Small roll of safety wire
Set of open end wrenches or something that would serve the purpose
Small canvas type bag to hold everything.
I can think of many more items I could throw in there, but I'm trying
avoid unnecessary items to keep the weight down. Of course, it's those
unnecessary items that I would probably need. Any help or advice would
be humbly appreciated, my friends.
Deke Morisse
Mikado Michigan
S5/Subaru/CAP 402+ TT
"The aim of an argument or discussion should not be victory, but
progress."
- Joseph Joubert
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
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3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
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3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
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3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
Message 37
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All,
Haven=99t read the whole thread, so maybe already said, but in my
Model 4 also carried a set of Titanium tie downs and tie down rope &
spark plugs, my 4 also had a 503 in it so it required a jet change once
a year to accommodate the hot summer temps so I also carried the spare
jets and tooling required to change.
Lloyd Cudnohufsky
Model 5 912ul
IVO IFA
Northern Mi.
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of fox5flyer
Sent: Sunday, April 19, 2009 5:07 PM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Tool Kit
Good one. I like the tie wraps and leatherman.
Thanks.
Keep 'em coming folks. Maybe we can come up with the ideal tool kit.
Deke
----- Original Message -----
From: HYPERLINK "mailto:skyflyte@comcast.net"skyflyte@comcast.net
"mailto:kitfox-list@matronics.com"kitfox-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, April 19, 2009 5:27 PM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Tool Kit
A few more items in my kit are:
tywraps of various sizes
exhaust system springs
carb boots (I've got a 582)
multi-tool like a Leatherman
a credit card
and you can never have too much duct tape!
Mike
490MC
----- Original Message -----
From: "fox5flyer" <HYPERLINK
"mailto:fox5flyer@idealwifi.net"fox5flyer@idealwifi.net>
"mailto:kitfox-list@matronics.com"kitfox-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Sunday, April 19, 2009 2:26:55 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern
Subject: Kitfox-List: Tool Kit
I'm in the process of making up a tool kit to keep in the airplane.
Since my S5 is already too heavy, I want the kit to be as complete as I
can make it yet keep it compact and light. I know, that's just like
building airplanes, a contradiction in terms.
Obviously it doesn't need to be complete enough to make a crankshaft
change or a valve job, but I would like it to be complete enough for
making simple repairs/checks on the ramp or to get out of trouble at
some remote place. I'll start out first with what I've put together and
hopefully some of you folks out there who have already done this will
chime in here. Feel free to add, comment, or laugh at my choices
because that's how we can all benefit from this.
8" vice grips
Combination screwdriver -- the type that has a hollow handle with
several different bits or something similar
Duct Tape
1/4" drive socket set, compact
Duct tape
8" crescent type wrench
Small roll of safety wire
Set of open end wrenches or something that would serve the purpose
Small canvas type bag to hold everything.
I can think of many more items I could throw in there, but I'm trying
avoid unnecessary items to keep the weight down. Of course, it's those
unnecessary items that I would probably need. Any help or advice would
be humbly appreciated, my friends.
Deke Morisse
Mikado Michigan
S5/Subaru/CAP 402+ TT
"The aim of an argument or discussion should not be victory, but
progress."
- Joseph Joubert
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
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3D
href='3D"http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List"'>http://www.ma
tronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List
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3D
href='3D"http://forums.matronics.com"'>http://forums.matronics.com
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href='3D"http://www.matronics.com/contribution"'>http://www.matronics.c
om/contribution
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3D
"http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List"http://www.matronics.com/
Navigator?Kitfox-List
"http://forums.matronics.com"http://forums.matronics.com
"http://www.matronics.com/contribution"http://www.matronics.com/contribut
ion
Checked by AVG.
4/18/2009 9:55 AM
Checked by AVG.
4/18/2009 9:55 AM
Message 38
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Lloyd=2C Where did you get Titanium tie downs? I ordered a set of tie downs
from someplace on sale and I am disappointed that they weigh so damn much.
I can't remember but=2C I thought the ones I gordered were touted as "ligh
t weight".
Pat Reilly
Mod 3 582 Rebuild
Rockford=2C IL
From: 7suds@Chartermi.net
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Tool Kit
All=2C
Haven=92t read the whole thread=2C so maybe already said=2C but in my Model
4 also carried a set of Titanium tie downs and tie down rope & spark plugs
=2C my 4 also had a 503 in it so it required a jet change once a year to ac
commodate the hot summer temps so I also carried the spare jets and tooling
required to change.
Lloyd Cudnohufsky
Model 5 912ul
IVO IFA
Northern Mi.
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-serv
er@matronics.com] On Behalf Of fox5flyer
Sent: Sunday=2C April 19=2C 2009 5:07 PM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Tool Kit
Good one. I like the tie wraps and leatherman.
Thanks.
Keep 'em coming folks. Maybe we can come up with the ideal tool kit.
Deke
----- Original Message -----
From: skyflyte@comcast.net
Sent: Sunday=2C April 19=2C 2009 5:27 PM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Tool Kit
A few more items in my kit are:
tywraps of various sizes
exhaust system springs
carb boots (I've got a 582)
multi-tool like a Leatherman
a credit card
and you can never have too much duct tape!
Mike
490MC
----- Original Message -----
From: "fox5flyer" <fox5flyer@idealwifi.net>
Sent: Sunday=2C April 19=2C 2009 2:26:55 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern
Subject: Kitfox-List: Tool Kit
I'm in the process of making up a tool kit to keep in the airplane. Since
my S5 is already too heavy=2C I want the kit to be as complete as I can mak
e it yet keep it compact and light. I know=2C that's just like building ai
rplanes=2C a contradiction in terms.
Obviously it doesn't need to be complete enough to make a crankshaft change
or a valve job=2C but I would like it to be complete enough for making sim
ple repairs/checks on the ramp or to get out of trouble at some remote plac
e. I'll start out first with what I've put together and hopefully some of
you folks out there who have already done this will chime in here. Feel fr
ee to add=2C comment=2C or laugh at my choices because that's how we can al
l benefit from this.
8" vice grips
Combination screwdriver -- the type that has a hollow handle with sever
al different bits or something similar
Duct Tape
1/4" drive socket set=2C compact
Duct tape
8" crescent type wrench
Small roll of safety wire
Set of open end wrenches or something that would serve the purpose
Small canvas type bag to hold everything.
I can think of many more items I could throw in there=2C but I'm trying avo
id unnecessary items to keep the weight down. Of course=2C it's those unne
cessary items that I would probably need. Any help or advice would be humb
ly appreciated=2C my friends.
Deke Morisse
Mikado Michigan
S5/Subaru/CAP 402+ TT
"The aim of an argument or discussion should not be victory=2C but progress
."
- Joseph Joubert
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
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=3D=3Dhref='3D"http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List"'>http:
//www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
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nics.com"'>http://forums.matronics.com3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
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=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3Dhref='3D"http://www.matronics.com
/contribution"'>http://www.matronics.com/contribution3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D http://www.matron
ics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-Listhttp://forums.matronics.comhttp://www.matronic
s.com/contribution
Checked by AVG.
4/18/2009 9:55 AM
Checked by AVG.
4/18/2009 9:55 AM
Message 39
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| Subject: | Re: Back-issues of "The Kitfox Builder" Newsletter |
Jeff, I would like to have those if you still have them. Email your address and
I will send you the $10 and email you my address.
Tom Jones
nahsikhs@elltel.net
jjshultz wrote:
> I've got a 3-ring binder with a bunch of back issues of "The Kitfox Builder"
newsletter. Dates are generally from Nov 94 to Jun 99. I won't be building a Kitfox
in the near future, but I hate to throw them out. They are a wealth of information.
If anyone wants it, $10 gets it shipped to you.
>
> Jeff Shultz
--------
Tom Jones
Classic IV
503 Rotax, 72 inch Two blade Warp
Ellensburg, WA
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=240186#240186
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| Subject: | Re: Brake Bleeder |
But you still have the problem of removing the barbed fitting, and
the few drops that will spill therefrom. I don't mind the counting,
or the occasional inserting of a "dipstick" to see how full the
reservoir is getting. When I helped my friend bleed his Waiex today,
the pumper never ran out, maybe because he is using 1/8" brake lines
and the air bubbles move pretty quick due to the smaller volume. He
also has a clear reservoir, so that makes the overflow problem a no-
brainer.
Of course this is with the independent reservoir, not the master
cylinder with integral reservoir.
Lynn Matteson
Kitfox IV Speedster, taildragger
Jabiru 2200, #2062, 632.8 hrs
Sensenich 62x46
Electroair direct-fire ignition system
Status: flying
On Apr 19, 2009, at 2:33 PM, fox5flyer wrote:
> <fox5flyer@idealwifi.net>
>
> This way will work just fine using the oil can method, but there
> is a way you can avoid all that counting and making a mess from
> fluid coming up out of the master cylinder and that's to put a
> small barb fitting into the fill hole and run a long piece of clear
> tubing into a jar where you can see it. This way you can keep
> pumping with the oil can and even if the master cylinder over
> flows, it won't matter. Just don't make the mistake of running
> out of fluid in the pumper.
> Deke Morisse
> Mikado Michigan
> S5/Subaru/CAP 402+ TT
> "The aim of an argument or discussion should not be victory, but
> progress."
> - Joseph Joubert
>
Message 41
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| Subject: | Re: Sun 'n' Fun....Paradise City |
I have already cancelled my plans to go to S n F....too many storms
showing on the weather between here and there to try to make a fly-in
that is not at the top of my list of places to go.
I don't particularly like their methods of charging in advance and
not giving back refunds. If this has changed, I'd like to know so I
don't hold a grudge against the organization. It's just NOT Oshkosh
in the way it operates....unless they've changed.
Lynn Matteson
Kitfox IV Speedster, taildragger
Jabiru 2200, #2062, 632.8 hrs
Sensenich 62x46
Electroair direct-fire ignition system
Status: flying
do not archive
On Apr 19, 2009, at 3:51 PM, FlyboyTR wrote:
>
> Last year we flew into the Ultralight area. Always liked the UL
> area much better than the Homebuilt area for camping, access, etc.
> We have flown in and out of there many times in years pastbut
> this was the first time in the Vixen. No problems. I hate we won
> t be able to make this year. We have plans to be at High Valley
> Resort in north Georgia that weekend. I have several pictures and
> diagrams of routing into the UL area at SNF. I put these together
> for some of our local folks that are flying down. I will post
> them. ...hope they are helpful.
>
> Travis :D
>
> --------
> Travis Rayner
> Mobile, AL
> Skystar Vixen, N-789DF
> Continental IO-240, Prince P-Tip Prop
> ADI-II Autopilot
> AnyWhereMap Navigation with weather
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=240137#240137
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/picture1_206.jpg
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/snf_ul_4_210.jpg
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/snf_ul_3_991.jpg
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/snf_ul_2_757.jpg
>
>
Message 42
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| Subject: | Re: Brake Bleeding w/helper |
On Sun, April 19, 2009 10:25 am, patrick reilly wrote:
>
> Paul, Do you mean your dog is better at chasing rabbits than he is at pushing
the
> brake pedal or better at chasing rabbits than your wife? ( Couldn't resist that
one)
My dog is far more enthusiastic about helping me but having a perfect attitude
can't
compensate for native ability. However, my wife cannot catch the rabbits, she can
cheer the chase on though. So, it is a two way street, attitude can't make up for
native ability. It took more than 6 hours of rabbit hunting today before a rabbit
made
a fatal mistake in the chase. Mistake - don't try to make a run for it in the open.
A
fast dog will have you for dinner. My dog can catch a rabbit in 150' even with
the
rabbit having a 50' head start.
I have completed more than five honey-do's in as many days so I can probably get
most
anything I want today. I lost some credits though, I came into the house for a
beer
mid way through lawn mowing without taking off my shoes. Got busted. I changed
oil in
her car and vacuumed it after mowing the lawn so I have credits for something.
I am
hoping for a canoe trip at Baker Lake. She's not a strong swimmer so that is a
big
concession but the water is so cold still that no one could make it far. My Labrador
Retriever can swim the whole trip and never get cold. One day, I'll land my Merlin
on
that lake. Probably get busted for doing so. Good thing for 2" N numbers.
--
Paul A. Franz
Registration/Aircraft - N14UW/Merlin GT
Engine/Prop - Rotax 914/NSI CAP
Bellevue WA
425.241.1618 Cell
Under capitalism, man exploits man. Under communism, it's just the opposite.
-- J.K. Galbraith
All other things being equal, a bald man cannot be elected President of the
United States.
-- Vic Gold
A public debt is a kind of anchor in the storm; but if the anchor be
too heavy for the vessel, she will be sunk by that very weight which
was intended for her preservation.
-- Colton
"The apportionment of taxes on the various descriptions of property
is an act which seems to require the most exact impartiality; yet
there is, perhaps, no legislative act in which greater opportunity
and temptation are given to a predominant party to trample on the
rules of justice. Every shilling which they overburden the inferior
number is a shilling saved to their own pockets."
-- James Madison, Federalist No. 10
"The Modern Liberal believes in the supremacy of the state, thereby
rejecting the principles of the Declaration and the order of the civil
society, in whole or part. For the Modern Liberal, the individual's
imperfection and personal pursuits impede the objective of a utopian
state. In this, Modern Liberalism promotes what French historian Alexis
de Tocqueville described as a soft tyranny, which becomes increasingly
more oppressive, potentially leading to a hard tyranny (some form of
totalitarianism). As the word 'liberal' is, in its classical meaning,
the opposite of authoritarian, it is more accurate, therefore, to
characterize the Modern Liberal as a Statist. ... The Statist ... knows
that despite his successful usurpations, enough citizens are still
skeptical and even distrustful of politicians and government that he
cannot force his will all at once. Thus he marches in incremental
steps, adjusting his pace as circumstances dictate. Today his pace is
more rapid, for resistance has slowed. ... The Conservative does not
despise government. He despises tyranny. This is precisely why the
Conservative reveres the Constitution and insists on adherence to it.
An 'effective' government that operates outside its constitutional
limitations is a dangerous government. ... The Conservative is alarmed
by the ascent of a soft tyranny.... He knows that liberty once lost is
rarely recovered. He knows of the decline and eventual failure of past
republics. And he knows that the best prescription for addressing
society's real and perceived ailments is not to further empower an
already enormous federal government beyond its constitutional limits,
but to return to the founding principles. A free people living in a
civil society, working in self-interested cooperation, and a government
operating within the limits of its authority promote more prosperity,
opportunity, and happiness for more people than any alternative.
Conservatism is the antidote to tyranny precisely because its
principles are the founding principles."
-- author and radio talk-show host Mark Levin in his book "Liberty and Tyranny"
In general, the art of government consists of taking as much money as possible
from
one party of the citizens to give to the other.
-- Voltaire (1764)
Message 43
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| Subject: | Re: King Fox Tire Production Run - Pre Order NOW |
I think it was Lynn that mentioned a possible glitch in this method if you
have gear with no indexing point of reference - aluminum spring gear. The
bungee gear and the spring gear can be visually checked to see if the gear
has tracked out during the roll. It won't track in as it has a fixed
retracted point. Since toe in has been the norm with the bungee gear,
rolling forward will keep the gear in the up (in) position.
Lowell
----- Original Message -----
From: "patrick reilly" <patreilly43@hotmail.com>
Sent: Sunday, April 19, 2009 11:28 AM
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Re: King Fox Tire Production Run - Pre Order NOW
Lowell, Got to be the easiest method to measure toe ever. Love it.
Pat Reilly do not archive
> From: lcfitt@sbcglobal.net
> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Re: King Fox Tire Production Run - Pre Order NOW
> Date: Sat, 18 Apr 2009 18:47:01 -0700
>
>
> James,
>
> The easiest way to get a feel for what you have is to put a piece of tape
> on the back tread of each tire at axle height. Put a pen mark on each tape
> and measure the distance between them. Then roll the airplane forward
> until
> the marked tape is axle height and measure again. The measurement should
> be
> the same or maybe a small fraction longer.
>
> Other ways are a bit more precise. In the factory article in the "Kitfox
> Times" a life time ago, called for putting a square on the axle and beyond
> that I get lost as there is significant camber on the axle and it makes
> any
> measurement using the axle problematic. One sure fire way is to attach a
> laser pointer to the brake rotor with magnets and project a line fore and
> aft and do the measurements that way. Always keeping the laser pointer and
> any targets at the same height off the floor to eliminate camber errors.
> This method does require a bit of fabricating to get a device that puts
> the
> laser beams parallel on each rotor.
>
> Try the easy way first and see what you get.
>
> Lowell
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "WurlyBird" <james.t.trizzino@us.army.mil>
> To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Saturday, April 18, 2009 5:46 PM
> Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: King Fox Tire Production Run - Pre Order NOW
>
>
> > <james.t.trizzino@us.army.mil>
> >
> > So how do you check wheel alignment on a KF?
> >
> > --------
> > James
> > Kitfox 3 / 582 / GSC prop
> > Soloed the Kitfox yesterday!!!
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=239989#239989
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
Message 44
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|
I usually take along the tools that I use for hourly/daily/weekly
repair or maintenance. You wouldn't have to take a complete socket
set if some of the sizes are never used. There are several allen
wrenches used on the Jabiru, and on some locations where I used
socket head cap screws on my plane. In short, I go around the plane
and make sure I have wrenches, flat screwdrivers, phillips, allens,
etc., to fit everything, then fluff out the tools with enough stuff
to make emergency repairs. Probably he most important tool is a
freshlycharged cell phone. As proven in last fall's wheatfield
landing, the cell phone was nearly dead, but people were close
enough, and nice enough to take me to a Wal-Mart where I bought a
battery charger for the phone, and made the necessary calls. Now
there is a phone charger IN the plane and it stays there.....Boy
Scout training 101..."Be Prepared"
Lynn Matteson
Kitfox IV Speedster, taildragger
Jabiru 2200, #2062, 632.8 hrs
Sensenich 62x46
Electroair direct-fire ignition system
Status: flying
On Apr 19, 2009, at 6:06 PM, fox5flyer wrote:
> Good one. I like the tie wraps and leatherman.
> Thanks.
>
> Keep 'em coming folks. Maybe we can come up with the ideal tool kit.
> Deke
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: skyflyte@comcast.net
> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Sunday, April 19, 2009 5:27 PM
> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Tool Kit
>
> A few more items in my kit are:
>
> tywraps of various sizes
>
> exhaust system springs
>
> carb boots (I've got a 582)
>
> multi-tool like a Leatherman
>
> a credit card
>
> and you can never have too much duct tape!
>
>
> Mike
>
> 490MC
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "fox5flyer" <fox5flyer@idealwifi.net>
> To: "Kitfox List" <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Sunday, April 19, 2009 2:26:55 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern
> Subject: Kitfox-List: Tool Kit
>
>
> I'm in the process of making up a tool kit to keep in the
> airplane. Since my S5 is already too heavy, I want the kit to be
> as complete as I can make it yet keep it compact and light. I
> know, that's just like building airplanes, a contradiction in terms.
> Obviously it doesn't need to be complete enough to make a
> crankshaft change or a valve job, but I would like it to be
> complete enough for making simple repairs/checks on the ramp or to
> get out of trouble at some remote place. I'll start out first with
> what I've put together and hopefully some of you folks out there
> who have already done this will chime in here. Feel free to add,
> comment, or laugh at my choices because that's how we can all
> benefit from this.
>
> 8" vice grips
> Combination screwdriver -- the type that has a hollow handle
> with several different bits or something similar
> Duct Tape
> 1/4" drive socket set, compact
> Duct tape
> 8" crescent type wrench
> Small roll of safety wire
> Set of open end wrenches or something that would serve the purpose
> Small canvas type bag to hold everything.
>
> I can think of many more items I could throw in there, but I'm
> trying avoid unnecessary items to keep the weight down. Of course,
> it's those unnecessary items that I would probably need. Any help
> or advice would be humbly appreciated, my friends.
>
> Deke Morisse
> Mikado Michigan
> S5/Subaru/CAP 402+ TT
> "The aim of an argument or discussion should not be victory, but
> progress."
> - Joseph Joubert
>
>
> 3D=======================3
> D======================
> href='3D"http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List"'>http://
> www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-
> List3D======================
> 3D=======================3
> D href='3D"http://forums.matronics.com"'>http://
> forums.matronics.com3D================
> ========================
> 3D===== href='3D"http://www.matronics.com/
> contribution"'>http://www.matronics.com/
> contribution3D===================3
> D=======================
> ===_-
> ============================================================ _-
> ============================================================ _-
> ============================================================ _-
> contribution_-
> ===========================================================
Message 45
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| Subject: | Re: Sight guages |
I also got John's sight gauges, but if they came with the wires, I
didn't use them. I get a better picture (for me) by seeing the
movement of the fuel (100LL) in the tubes. The horizontal blue and
white lines behind the tubes make it easy to see where the fuel is,
and in three years the tubing is still clear...no darkening...another
plus for 100 LL apparently.
Lynn Matteson
Kitfox IV Speedster, taildragger
Jabiru 2200, #2062, 632.8 hrs
Sensenich 62x46
Electroair direct-fire ignition system
Status: flying
On Apr 19, 2009, at 4:17 PM, fox5flyer wrote:
> <fox5flyer@idealwifi.net>
>
> Travis, that is pretty much the same thing that John Mc at
> KitfoxAircraft sells and what I am also using. Works great, but I
> didn't use any sort of dampener and after several years and lots of
> hours it doesn't seem to cause much of a problem as it quickly
> returns to it's normal level, something I didn't care for when I
> used the dampened, kit supplied units. Phew, long sentence!
> What I'd like is to find some clear tubing that won't discolor so
> quickly and will last a few years as other than the discoloration I
> can't see much reason to replace it annually. Mostly, it gets hard
> to read, especially in low light, but remains pliable.
> Deke Morisse
> Mikado Michigan
> S5/Subaru/CAP 402+ TT
> "The aim of an argument or discussion should not be victory, but
> progress."
> - Joseph Joubert
Message 46
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|
| Subject: | Re: King Fox Tire Production Run - Pre Order NOW |
Lowell=2C I really don't follow that explaination. What is an "indexing poi
nt"? Do you mean the plane may "squat" or suspension extend a little as it
is rolled forward?
Pat Reilly
> From: lcfitt@sbcglobal.net
> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Re: King Fox Tire Production Run - Pre Order NO
W
> Date: Sun=2C 19 Apr 2009 16:28:27 -0700
>
>
> I think it was Lynn that mentioned a possible glitch in this method if yo
u
> have gear with no indexing point of reference - aluminum spring gear. The
> bungee gear and the spring gear can be visually checked to see if the gea
r
> has tracked out during the roll. It won't track in as it has a fixed
> retracted point. Since toe in has been the norm with the bungee gear=2C
> rolling forward will keep the gear in the up (in) position.
>
> Lowell
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "patrick reilly" <patreilly43@hotmail.com>
> To: "kitfox matronics" <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Sunday=2C April 19=2C 2009 11:28 AM
> Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Re: King Fox Tire Production Run - Pre Order NO
W
>
>
>
> Lowell=2C Got to be the easiest method to measure toe ever. Love it.
>
> Pat Reilly do not archive
>
> > From: lcfitt@sbcglobal.net
> > To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
> > Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Re: King Fox Tire Production Run - Pre Order
NOW
> > Date: Sat=2C 18 Apr 2009 18:47:01 -0700
> >
> >
> > James=2C
> >
> > The easiest way to get a feel for what you have is to put a piece of ta
pe
> > on the back tread of each tire at axle height. Put a pen mark on each t
ape
> > and measure the distance between them. Then roll the airplane forward
> > until
> > the marked tape is axle height and measure again. The measurement shoul
d
> > be
> > the same or maybe a small fraction longer.
> >
> > Other ways are a bit more precise. In the factory article in the "Kitfo
x
> > Times" a life time ago=2C called for putting a square on the axle and b
eyond
> > that I get lost as there is significant camber on the axle and it makes
> > any
> > measurement using the axle problematic. One sure fire way is to attach
a
> > laser pointer to the brake rotor with magnets and project a line fore a
nd
> > aft and do the measurements that way. Always keeping the laser pointer
and
> > any targets at the same height off the floor to eliminate camber errors
.
> > This method does require a bit of fabricating to get a device that puts
> > the
> > laser beams parallel on each rotor.
> >
> > Try the easy way first and see what you get.
> >
> > Lowell
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "WurlyBird" <james.t.trizzino@us.army.mil>
> > To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
> > Sent: Saturday=2C April 18=2C 2009 5:46 PM
> > Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: King Fox Tire Production Run - Pre Order NOW
> >
> >
> > > <james.t.trizzino@us.army.mil>
> > >
> > > So how do you check wheel alignment on a KF?
> > >
> > > --------
> > > James
> > > Kitfox 3 / 582 / GSC prop
> > > Soloed the Kitfox yesterday!!!
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Read this topic online here:
> > >
> > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=239989#239989
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> ===========
> ===========
> ===========
> ===========
> >
> >
> >
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
Message 47
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|
On Sun, April 19, 2009 11:26 am, fox5flyer wrote:
> I'm in the process of making up a tool kit to keep in the airplane. Since my
S5 is
> already too heavy, I want the kit to be as complete as I can make it yet keep
it
> compact and light.
OK. Fine tuning the list for weight would be a priority. I have the idea that almost
no repair would be done ever away from home as one would rely on assistance away
from
home at any public place. Otherwise, you'd be discussing survival supplies too.
So, my
best guess is going to be weighted toward risk items. You skipped electrical and
that
is where you need some minimal tools.
> 8" vice grips - no, too heavy
Pair of pliers
Box cutter or other very small knife.
8' of 18 ga insulated wire.
> Combination screwdriver -- the type that has a hollow handle with several
- nix
All I've seen are crappy and not a weight saving. I'd get one phillips, and one
wedge
blade screw driver. The wedge blade doubles as a pry tool
> Duct Tape 1/4 roll or less in a sealed zip lock back to help keep the aging
to a
minimum. Shrink seal would be even better.
> 1/4" drive socket set, compact - nix this. Too heavy.
> Duct tape - you already said that one. But it is important. You might have
meant
WD-40 which is the other part of the two necessary tools. If it moves and
shouldn't, use duct tape. If it doesn't move and should, WD-40. Plus WD-40 can
do other cool things like instant fill of a flat tire (I have a video if you
need to see how) and it can clean stuff.
> 8" crescent type wrench - nix this. Use a 6".
> Small roll of safety wire - maybe but only if you pack the clamptite tool.
> Set of open end wrenches or something that would serve the purpose - not
a set,
a couple of the most common is all you need. Like 10 mm or whatever you need for
fuel line clamps, exhaust, carb, stuff that loosens up now and then. Shouldn't
take a whole set of wrenches. I bet you can select 4 or max 5 that you can use
along with the 6" crescent.
Electrical continuity tester. One that can probe through the insulation in wires.
Two shop rags.
Small canvas type bag to hold everything - some other material would be better.
Cordura for example.
>
> I can think of many more items I could throw in there, but I'm trying avoid
> unnecessary items to keep the weight down. Of course, it's those unnecessary
items
> that I would probably need. Any help or advice would be humbly appreciated,
my
> friends.
I would evaluate the need differently. I think you can do most stuff at home and
only
need the bare minimum of anything away from home. Mostly stuff you know you would
use
regularly and that's it. It seems to me that minor electrical problems are about
the
only thing you'd ever need. Knife to cut stuff, electrical tester, pliers and tape
will allow you to do many things until you can get back to your shop. Maybe you
need
to tighten up something that has gotten loose.
--
Paul A. Franz
Registration/Aircraft - N14UW/Merlin GT
Engine/Prop - Rotax 914/NSI CAP
Bellevue WA
425.241.1618 Cell
The ultimate result of shielding men from the effects of folly is to
fill the world with fools.
-- Herbert Spencer, English Philosopher (1820-1903)
Suppose you were an idiot. And suppose you were a member of
Congress. But then I repeat myself.
-- Mark Twain
"It is natural to man to indulge in the illusions of hope. We are
apt to shut our eyes against a painful truth -- and listen to the
song of that siren, till she transforms us into beasts."
--Patrick Henry
"Back in the thirties we were told we must collectivize the
nation because the people were so poor. Now we are told we must
collectivize the nation because the people are so rich."
-- National Review founder William F. Buckley Jr. (1925-2008)
"Economic conservatives have aggressively opposed President Obama's
agenda to radically expand government, financed by deficits that
run into the trillions. If social conservatives want to protect
America's families and social values, they must join with fiscal
conservatives to oppose President Obama and reverse America's
culture of debt. America was built on individual opportunity. This
is the core of the economic conservative agenda. The family unit is
the core building block of American society. This is the heart of
the social conservative agenda. There is a key overlap here that
many conservatives -- and even their leaders -- overlook. Living
within your means and managing your finances to avoid long-term
debt is part of building strong families, providing for your
children and teaching them to provide for themselves. ... Both
economic and social conservatives need to grasp the common ground
here. Strong families are essential to strong economies, and
financial management is a key family value."
-- columnist Ken Blackwell
Message 48
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I like Lynn didn't take a complete socket set. As I recall, some of the
electrical terminals took an 11/32 socket, then sockets for the #3,4 and 5
AN hardware. Another thought, most of us have metric engines in english
airframes. Also included was a small ratcheting screwdriver (right angle),
a sparkplug wrench and one of the disk shaped feeler gauges, and believe it
or not the butane soldering iron I carried saved the day when a friend found
a broken ignition wire during a trip up the Oregon Coast. I felt all heroic
when I told him I had one. A lot of this stuff was to service my camera
mount. The open end wrenches were of the "stubby" variety to keep weight
down. As well as stuff already mentnioned, spare parts also included a
spare fuel filter element, a tire pump and I carried but never used a CO2
inflator unit.
For those with heavy engines requiring ballast, the tool box carried an a
carefully chosen location can mitigate somewhat the need for CG ballast, but
must be on the mandatory equipment list and not siphoned off from time to
time to augment the hangar tools.
Lowell
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lynn Matteson" <lynnmatt@jps.net>
Sent: Sunday, April 19, 2009 4:37 PM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Tool Kit
>
> I usually take along the tools that I use for hourly/daily/weekly repair
> or maintenance. You wouldn't have to take a complete socket set if some
> of the sizes are never used. There are several allen wrenches used on the
> Jabiru, and on some locations where I used socket head cap screws on my
> plane. In short, I go around the plane and make sure I have wrenches,
> flat screwdrivers, phillips, allens, etc., to fit everything, then fluff
> out the tools with enough stuff to make emergency repairs. Probably he
> most important tool is a freshlycharged cell phone. As proven in last
> fall's wheatfield landing, the cell phone was nearly dead, but people
> were close enough, and nice enough to take me to a Wal-Mart where I
> bought a battery charger for the phone, and made the necessary calls. Now
> there is a phone charger IN the plane and it stays there.....Boy Scout
> training 101..."Be Prepared"
>
> Lynn Matteson
> Kitfox IV Speedster, taildragger
> Jabiru 2200, #2062, 632.8 hrs
> Sensenich 62x46
> Electroair direct-fire ignition system
> Status: flying
>
>
> On Apr 19, 2009, at 6:06 PM, fox5flyer wrote:
>
>> Good one. I like the tie wraps and leatherman.
>> Thanks.
>>
>> Keep 'em coming folks. Maybe we can come up with the ideal tool kit.
>> Deke
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: skyflyte@comcast.net
>> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
>> Sent: Sunday, April 19, 2009 5:27 PM
>> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Tool Kit
>>
>> A few more items in my kit are:
>>
>> tywraps of various sizes
>>
>> exhaust system springs
>>
>> carb boots (I've got a 582)
>>
>> multi-tool like a Leatherman
>>
>> a credit card
>>
>> and you can never have too much duct tape!
>>
>>
>> Mike
>>
>> 490MC
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "fox5flyer" <fox5flyer@idealwifi.net>
>> To: "Kitfox List" <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
>> Sent: Sunday, April 19, 2009 2:26:55 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern
>> Subject: Kitfox-List: Tool Kit
>>
>>
>> I'm in the process of making up a tool kit to keep in the airplane.
>> Since my S5 is already too heavy, I want the kit to be as complete as I
>> can make it yet keep it compact and light. I know, that's just like
>> building airplanes, a contradiction in terms.
>> Obviously it doesn't need to be complete enough to make a crankshaft
>> change or a valve job, but I would like it to be complete enough for
>> making simple repairs/checks on the ramp or to get out of trouble at
>> some remote place. I'll start out first with what I've put together and
>> hopefully some of you folks out there who have already done this will
>> chime in here. Feel free to add, comment, or laugh at my choices
>> because that's how we can all benefit from this.
>>
>> 8" vice grips
>> Combination screwdriver -- the type that has a hollow handle with
>> several different bits or something similar
>> Duct Tape
>> 1/4" drive socket set, compact
>> Duct tape
>> 8" crescent type wrench
>> Small roll of safety wire
>> Set of open end wrenches or something that would serve the purpose
>> Small canvas type bag to hold everything.
>>
>> I can think of many more items I could throw in there, but I'm trying
>> avoid unnecessary items to keep the weight down. Of course, it's those
>> unnecessary items that I would probably need. Any help or advice would
>> be humbly appreciated, my friends.
>>
>> Deke Morisse
>> Mikado Michigan
>> S5/Subaru/CAP 402+ TT
>> "The aim of an argument or discussion should not be victory, but
>> progress."
>> - Joseph Joubert
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> 3D=======================3
>> D======================
>> href='3D"http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List"'>http://
>> www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-
>> List3D======================
>> 3D=======================3 D
>> href='3D"http://forums.matronics.com"'>http://
>> forums.matronics.com3D================
>> ========================
>> 3D===== href='3D"http://www.matronics.com/
>> contribution"'>http://www.matronics.com/
>> contribution3D===================3
>> D=======================
>> ===_- ============================================================
>> _- ============================================================ _-
>> ============================================================ _-
>> contribution_-
>> ===========================================================
>
>
>
Message 49
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| Subject: | Re: Sun 'n' Fun....Paradise City |
Already here....
weather great today....
In a message dated 4/19/2009 6:25:17 P.M. Central Daylight Time,
lynnmatt@jps.net writes:
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt@jps.net>
I have already cancelled my plans to go to S n F....too many storms
showing on the weather between here and there to try to make a fly-in
that is not at the top of my list of places to go.
I don't particularly like their methods of charging in advance and
not giving back refunds. If this has changed, I'd like to know so I
don't hold a grudge against the organization. It's just NOT Oshkosh
in the way it operates....unless they've changed.
Lynn Matteson
Kitfox IV Speedster, taildragger
Jabiru 2200, #2062, 632.8 hrs
Sensenich 62x46
Electroair direct-fire ignition system
Status: flying
do not archive
On Apr 19, 2009, at 3:51 PM, FlyboyTR wrote:
>
> Last year we flew into the Ultralight area. Always liked the UL
> area much better than the Homebuilt area for camping, access, etc.
> We have flown in and out of there many times in years past=C3=A2=82
=AC=C2but
> this was the first time in the Vixen. No problems. I hate we won=C3
=A2
> =82=AC=84=A2t be able to make this year. We have plans to be at
High Valley
> Resort in north Georgia that weekend. I have several pictures and
> diagrams of routing into the UL area at SNF. I put these together
> for some of our local folks that are flying down. I will post
> them. ...hope they are helpful.
>
> Travis :D
>
> --------
> Travis Rayner
> Mobile, AL
> Skystar Vixen, N-789DF
> Continental IO-240, Prince P-Tip Prop
> ADI-II Autopilot
> AnyWhereMap Navigation with weather
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=240137#240137
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/picture1_206.jpg
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/snf_ul_4_210.jpg
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/snf_ul_3_991.jpg
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/snf_ul_2_757.jpg
>
>
========================
===========
========================
===========
========================
===========
========================
===========
**************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 eas
y
steps!
=http:%2F%2Fwww.freecreditreport.com%2Fpm%2Fdefault.aspx%3Fsc%3D668072%2
6
hmpgID%3D62%26bcd%3DAprilfooter419NO62)
Message 50
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| Subject: | Re: Sun 'n' Fun....Paradise City |
I have worked on the UL section for several years.=C2- One year a guy fly
ing a kitfox ran out of fuel while taxiing after landing.=C2- The attenda
nt who put fuel in his plane put the gas caps back on Backwards, apparently
causing the fuel to be sucked out of the tanks during flight.
Fortunately, he landed just before the tanks were empty.=C2-=C2-
Just a reminder - if someone else fuels your plane, check you caps!!!
By the way, I am getting married at SNF this year!=C2-=C2- A sunrise ce
remony on Saturday.
Malcolm
--- On Sun, 4/19/09, FlyboyTR <flyboytr@bellsouth.net> wrote:
From: FlyboyTR <flyboytr@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: Sun 'n' Fun....Paradise City
Last year we flew into the Ultralight area.=C2- Always liked the UL area
much better than the Homebuilt area for camping, access, etc.=C2- We have
flown in and out of there many times in years past=C3=A2=82=AC=C2but
this was the first time in the Vixen.=C2- No problems.=C2- I hate we w
on=C3=A2=82=AC=84=A2t be able to make this year.=C2- We have plans
to be at High Valley Resort in north Georgia that weekend.=C2- I have sev
eral pictures and diagrams of routing into the UL area at SNF.=C2- I put
these together for some of our local folks that are flying down.=C2- I wi
ll post them.=C2- ...hope they are helpful.
Travis=C2-=C2-=C2-:D
--------
Travis Rayner
Mobile, AL
Skystar Vixen, N-789DF
Continental IO-240,=C2- Prince P-Tip Prop
ADI-II Autopilot
AnyWhereMap Navigation with weather
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=240137#240137
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/picture1_206.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/snf_ul_4_210.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/snf_ul_3_991.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/snf_ul_2_757.jpg
S WEB FORUMS -
on Web Site -
=C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
=0A=0A=0A
Message 51
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| Subject: | Re: Sight guages |
I believe I am going to order some Tygothane from Lockwood...I guess it's possible
there is a difference. The Tygon I was using was for fuel. Thanks...less
work...more flying time!
Travis :D
--------
Travis Rayner
Mobile, AL
Skystar Vixen, N-789DF
Continental IO-240, Prince P-Tip Prop
ADI-II Autopilot
AnyWhereMap Navigation with weather
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=240206#240206
Message 52
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| Subject: | Re: Sun 'n' Fun....Paradise City |
Malcolm,
Congratulations! Sounds great.
Travis :D
--------
Travis Rayner
Mobile, AL
Skystar Vixen, N-789DF
Continental IO-240, Prince P-Tip Prop
ADI-II Autopilot
AnyWhereMap Navigation with weather
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=240209#240209
Message 53
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I agree with Paul. One of the first things you need to think about is where
you might need the stuff. When we were flying the Idaho back country, there
were times we were far from help, though being in a group help was not far
away. Cayuse Creek comes to mind. It remains a private strip and lodge in
the midst of a designated Wilderness Area. Sometimes consideration should
be given for survival gear.
I learned this from the guy that loaned me his hangar during my first flight
series. He went out one clear winter day for some sight seeing in a
Taylorcraft. When he got back he began kicking himself because as an Air
Force pilot, he knew better (SR-71 and U-2 out of Beale AFB). All he had
with him as he overflew the snow covered Sierras east of Beal was a light
jacket and jeans.
Lowell
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Franz - Merlin GT" <paul@eucleides.com>
Sent: Sunday, April 19, 2009 5:15 PM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Tool Kit
> <paul@eucleides.com>
>
> On Sun, April 19, 2009 11:26 am, fox5flyer wrote:
>> I'm in the process of making up a tool kit to keep in the airplane.
>> Since my S5 is
>> already too heavy, I want the kit to be as complete as I can make it yet
>> keep it
>> compact and light.
>
> OK. Fine tuning the list for weight would be a priority. I have the idea
> that almost
> no repair would be done ever away from home as one would rely on
> assistance away from
> home at any public place. Otherwise, you'd be discussing survival supplies
> too. So, my
> best guess is going to be weighted toward risk items. You skipped
> electrical and that
> is where you need some minimal tools.
>
>> 8" vice grips - no, too heavy
> Pair of pliers
> Box cutter or other very small knife.
> 8' of 18 ga insulated wire.
>
>> Combination screwdriver -- the type that has a hollow handle with
>> several - nix
>
> All I've seen are crappy and not a weight saving. I'd get one phillips,
> and one wedge
> blade screw driver. The wedge blade doubles as a pry tool
>
>> Duct Tape 1/4 roll or less in a sealed zip lock back to help keep the
>> aging to a
> minimum. Shrink seal would be even better.
>> 1/4" drive socket set, compact - nix this. Too heavy.
>> Duct tape - you already said that one. But it is important. You might
>> have meant
> WD-40 which is the other part of the two necessary tools. If it moves and
> shouldn't, use duct tape. If it doesn't move and should, WD-40. Plus WD-40
> can
> do other cool things like instant fill of a flat tire (I have a video if
> you
> need to see how) and it can clean stuff.
>
>> 8" crescent type wrench - nix this. Use a 6".
>> Small roll of safety wire - maybe but only if you pack the clamptite
>> tool.
>
>> Set of open end wrenches or something that would serve the purpose -
>> not a set,
> a couple of the most common is all you need. Like 10 mm or whatever you
> need for
> fuel line clamps, exhaust, carb, stuff that loosens up now and then.
> Shouldn't
> take a whole set of wrenches. I bet you can select 4 or max 5 that you can
> use
> along with the 6" crescent.
>
> Electrical continuity tester. One that can probe through the insulation in
> wires.
>
> Two shop rags.
>
> Small canvas type bag to hold everything - some other material would be
> better.
> Cordura for example.
>>
>> I can think of many more items I could throw in there, but I'm trying
>> avoid
>> unnecessary items to keep the weight down. Of course, it's those
>> unnecessary items
>> that I would probably need. Any help or advice would be humbly
>> appreciated, my
>> friends.
>
> I would evaluate the need differently. I think you can do most stuff at
> home and only
> need the bare minimum of anything away from home. Mostly stuff you know
> you would use
> regularly and that's it. It seems to me that minor electrical problems are
> about the
> only thing you'd ever need. Knife to cut stuff, electrical tester, pliers
> and tape
> will allow you to do many things until you can get back to your shop.
> Maybe you need
> to tighten up something that has gotten loose.
> --
> Paul A. Franz
> Registration/Aircraft - N14UW/Merlin GT
> Engine/Prop - Rotax 914/NSI CAP
> Bellevue WA
> 425.241.1618 Cell
>
> The ultimate result of shielding men from the effects of folly is to
> fill the world with fools.
>
> -- Herbert Spencer, English Philosopher (1820-1903)
>
> Suppose you were an idiot. And suppose you were a member of
> Congress. But then I repeat myself.
>
> -- Mark Twain
>
> "It is natural to man to indulge in the illusions of hope. We are
> apt to shut our eyes against a painful truth -- and listen to the
> song of that siren, till she transforms us into beasts."
>
> --Patrick Henry
>
> "Back in the thirties we were told we must collectivize the
> nation because the people were so poor. Now we are told we must
> collectivize the nation because the people are so rich."
>
> -- National Review founder William F. Buckley Jr. (1925-2008)
>
> "Economic conservatives have aggressively opposed President Obama's
> agenda to radically expand government, financed by deficits that
> run into the trillions. If social conservatives want to protect
> America's families and social values, they must join with fiscal
> conservatives to oppose President Obama and reverse America's
> culture of debt. America was built on individual opportunity. This
> is the core of the economic conservative agenda. The family unit is
> the core building block of American society. This is the heart of
> the social conservative agenda. There is a key overlap here that
> many conservatives -- and even their leaders -- overlook. Living
> within your means and managing your finances to avoid long-term
> debt is part of building strong families, providing for your
> children and teaching them to provide for themselves. ... Both
> economic and social conservatives need to grasp the common ground
> here. Strong families are essential to strong economies, and
> financial management is a key family value."
>
> -- columnist Ken Blackwell
>
>
>
Message 54
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| Subject: | Re: Sun 'n' Fun....Paradise City |
That's always the way isn't it? I watched the weather channel,
searched the weather on Pilot My-Cast, and it looked like a
marginally do-able two days of flight if everything went well, but
not so good if it didn't, so I opted to stay home. It's a different
matter if you live closer, but a lot can happen within the 1000 miles
that I would have had to fly. Hell, I was getting a pretty good
bouncing around just flying down to Defiance, Ohio on Saturday.
So have fun guys, I'm setting my sights...again...on The Festival of
Flight in late May.....one of these days I'll actually get to
something besides Oshkosh. : )
Lynn Matteson
Kitfox IV Speedster, taildragger
Jabiru 2200, #2062, 632.8 hrs
Sensenich 62x46
Electroair direct-fire ignition system
Status: flying
do not archive
On Apr 19, 2009, at 8:56 PM, Aerobatics@aol.com wrote:
> Already here....
>
> weather great today....
>
> In a message dated 4/19/2009 6:25:17 P.M. Central Daylight Time,
> lynnmatt@jps.net writes:
>
> I have already cancelled my plans to go to S n F....too many storms
> showing on the weather between here and there to try to make a fly-in
> that is not at the top of my list of places to go.
> I don't particularly like their methods of charging in advance and
> not giving back refunds. If this has changed, I'd like to know so I
> don't hold a grudge against the organization. It's just NOT Oshkosh
> in the way it operates....unless they've changed.
>
> Lynn Matteson
> Kitfox IV Speedster, taildragger
> Jabiru 2200, #2062, 632.8 hrs
> Sensenich 62x46
> Electroair direct-fire ignition system
> Status: flying
> do not archive
>
>
> On Apr 19, 2009, at 3:51 PM, FlyboyTR wrote:
>
> <flyboytr@bellsouth.net>
> >
> > Last year we flew into the Ultralight area. Always liked the UL
> > area much better than the Homebuilt area for camping, access, etc.
> > We have flown in and out of there many times in years pastbut
> > this was the first time in the Vixen. No problems. I hate we won
> > t be able to make this year. We have plans to be at High Valley
> > Resort in north Georgia that weekend. I have several pictures and
> > diagrams of routing into the UL area at SNF. I put these together
> > for some of our local folks that are flying down. I will post
> > them. ...hope they are helpful.
> >
> > Travis :D
> >
> > --------
> > Travis Rayner
> > Mobile, AL
> > Skystar Vixen, N-789DF
> > Continental IO-240, Prince P-Tip Prop
> > ADI-II Autopilot
> > AnyWhereMap Navigation with weather
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=240137#240137
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Attachments:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com//files/picture1_206.jpg
> > http://forums.matronics.com//files/snf_ul_4_210.jpg
> > http://forums.matronics.com//files/snf_ul_3_991.jpg
> > http://forums.matronics.com//files/snf_ul_2_757.jpg
> >
> >
> &================================================ the ties Day
> ================================================ -
> MATRONICS WEB FORUMS
> ================================================ - List
> Contribution Web Site sp;
> ==================================================
>
>
> A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy
> steps! _-
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Message 55
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| Subject: | Re: Sun 'n' Fun....Paradise City |
Who are you? You can't be Malcolm...everything is spelled right and
punctuated! Guy and Mike, this guy's an impostor. : )
Just kidding, Malcolm...congrats on the upcoming nuptials. Hope to
see you at Midland one of these days.
Lynn Matteson
Kitfox IV Speedster, taildragger
Jabiru 2200, #2062, 632.8 hrs
Sensenich 62x46
Electroair direct-fire ignition system
Status: flying
do not archive
On Apr 19, 2009, at 9:00 PM, Malcolm Brubaker wrote:
> I have worked on the UL section for several years. One year a guy
> flying a kitfox ran out of fuel while taxiing after landing. The
> attendant who put fuel in his plane put the gas caps back on
> Backwards, apparently causing the fuel to be sucked out of the
> tanks during flight.
> Fortunately, he landed just before the tanks were empty.
> Just a reminder - if someone else fuels your plane, check you caps!!!
> By the way, I am getting married at SNF this year! A sunrise
> ceremony on Saturday.
> Malcolm
>
> --- On Sun, 4/19/09, FlyboyTR <flyboytr@bellsouth.net> wrote:
>
> From: FlyboyTR <flyboytr@bellsouth.net>
> Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: Sun 'n' Fun....Paradise City
> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
> Date: Sunday, April 19, 2009, 7:51 PM
>
>
> Last year we flew into the Ultralight area. Always liked the UL
> area much better than the Homebuilt area for camping, access, etc.
> We have flown in and out of there many times in years pastbut
> this was the first time in the Vixen. No problems. I hate we won
> t be able to make this year. We have plans to be at High Valley
> Resort in north Georgia that weekend. I have several pictures and
> diagrams of routing into the UL area at SNF. I put these together
> for some of our local folks that are flying down. I will post
> them. ...hope they are helpful.
>
> Travis :D
>
> --------
> Travis Rayner
> Mobile, AL
> Skystar Vixen, N-789DF
> Continental IO-240, Prince P-Tip Prop
> ADI-II Autopilot
> AnyWhereMap Navigation with weather
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=240137#240137
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/picture1_206.jpg
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/snf_ul_4_210.jpg
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Message 56
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Rather than rolling the aircraft backward and forward to check the wheel
alingment, Take four sheets of flat metal approx 15 ins sq. Smear grease
on two, place the other two sheets on the greased plates. Place the
sheets in front of the tires and roll the airplane onto the sheets.The
upper sheets will slide on the grease and the tires will then be in the
position that they want to be.
Floran Higgins
Helena, Mt.
Speedster
912 ULS
----- Original Message -----
From: patrick reilly
To: kitfox matronics
Sent: Sunday, April 19, 2009 11:19 AM
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Toe in
Tom, Your method of checking each wheel independend of the other
sounds like the best to me. Checking the toe in on wheels only doesn't
find the wheel that is misaligned. I guess either method would work but
the plane would have a little "dog track to it if both wheels were
parallel or toed out but not aligned with the fuselage. Might not be
enough to be noticable though.
Pat Reilly
Mod 3 582 Rebuild
Rockford, IL
> From: asq@roadrunner.com
> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Toe in
> Date: Sun, 19 Apr 2009 11:18:52 -0400
>
<asq@roadrunner.com>
>
> Tom,
> This is interesting. I have read many horror stories about ground
handling
> characteristics of the Kitfox and ( although having many hours in
> taildraggers) was expecting trouble when I first flew mine 500+ hrs
ago. It
> handled beautifully. I have never had any problems and find it one
of the
> most docile taildraggers I have flown.
> I have flown aircraft with a bit of toe in and know they can be an
> extreme handful. If some of these came from the factory not straight
and
> true,that may explain the problems so many have had. ANY toe in in
any
> taildragger is a setup for a trip through the weeds at best.
> I would advise all to check your landing gear. One easy way is to
lay 2
> perfectly straight boards(1"X4"X 8' +) against the outside of the
tires and
> measure between both ends. Yes, you will have to find two buddies to
give
> you a hand for half an hour max. If they are off then get more
critical. If
> they are toed out it is not much of a problem unless it is extreme,
but
> straight is better.
> Larry Huntley, Dundee,NY
> 4-1200 Soob,510hrs,
> still on little fat original tires
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Tom Jones" <nahsikhs@elltel.net>
> To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Sunday, April 19, 2009 10:14 AM
> Subject: Kitfox-List: Toe in
>
>
<nahsikhs@elltel.net>
> >
> > When checking main gear wheel alignment here's my 2 cents.
> >
> > My Kitfox was unruly on take off when the tail came up so I
checked wheel
> > alignment with the tail up fuselage level attitude.
> >
> > The method I used is a plumb bob to find and mark fuselage center
line on
> > the floor then a straight 2 X 4 about 5 or 6 feet long (or some
other item
> > you are sure is straight like a 6 foot level) on edge against the
outside
> > of the tires to measure to center line. Measure from both ends of
the 2 X
> > 4 to the center line of fuselage on both wheels.
> >
> > My tube gear had the left wheel seriously toed in. I chained the
tail to
> > a post and tried a 6 foot cheater on the axle to bend the gear but
stopped
> > that because I was afraid I would break the gear before it bent.
> >
> > Then I took the axle out of the gear, put it in a vise and bent it
with a
> > sledge hammer. It only takes a lite blow to bend the axle this
way.
> > After about 2 or 3 tries I had the wheels tracking straight ahead
as near
> > as I could measure.
> >
> > The results were amazing, the airplane is now the easiest to take
off and
> > land tail dragger I have ever flown. Some of that may be because I
have
> > more practice now but I can say for sure the alignment made a lot
of
> > improvement.
> >
> > --------
> > Tom Jones
> > Classic IV
> > 503 Rotax, 72 inch Two blade Warp
> > Ellensburg, WA
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=240083#240083
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-------
>
>
>
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> 09:55:00
>
> <=========
>
>
>
Message 57
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| Subject: | Re: Sun 'n' Fun....Paradise City |
Come, on Lynn, I'm offended now. You came to the very last Cameron Park
Kitfox fly-in and BBQ, and this way out on the Left Coast.
Lowell
Do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lynn Matteson" <lynnmatt@jps.net>
Sent: Sunday, April 19, 2009 7:15 PM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Re: Sun 'n' Fun....Paradise City
>
> That's always the way isn't it? I watched the weather channel, searched
> the weather on Pilot My-Cast, and it looked like a marginally do-able two
> days of flight if everything went well, but not so good if it didn't, so
> I opted to stay home. It's a different matter if you live closer, but a
> lot can happen within the 1000 miles that I would have had to fly. Hell,
> I was getting a pretty good bouncing around just flying down to Defiance,
> Ohio on Saturday.
> So have fun guys, I'm setting my sights...again...on The Festival of
> Flight in late May.....one of these days I'll actually get to something
> besides Oshkosh. : )
>
> Lynn Matteson
> Kitfox IV Speedster, taildragger
> Jabiru 2200, #2062, 632.8 hrs
> Sensenich 62x46
> Electroair direct-fire ignition system
> Status: flying
> do not archive
>
>
> On Apr 19, 2009, at 8:56 PM, Aerobatics@aol.com wrote:
>
>> Already here....
>>
>> weather great today....
>>
>> In a message dated 4/19/2009 6:25:17 P.M. Central Daylight Time,
>> lynnmatt@jps.net writes:
>>
>> I have already cancelled my plans to go to S n F....too many storms
>> showing on the weather between here and there to try to make a fly-in
>> that is not at the top of my list of places to go.
>> I don't particularly like their methods of charging in advance and
>> not giving back refunds. If this has changed, I'd like to know so I
>> don't hold a grudge against the organization. It's just NOT Oshkosh
>> in the way it operates....unless they've changed.
>>
>> Lynn Matteson
>> Kitfox IV Speedster, taildragger
>> Jabiru 2200, #2062, 632.8 hrs
>> Sensenich 62x46
>> Electroair direct-fire ignition system
>> Status: flying
>> do not archive
>>
>>
>>
>> On Apr 19, 2009, at 3:51 PM, FlyboyTR wrote:
>>
>> <flyboytr@bellsouth.net>
>> >
>> > Last year we flew into the Ultralight area. Always liked the UL
>> > area much better than the Homebuilt area for camping, access, etc.
>> > We have flown in and out of there many times in years pastbut
>> > this was the first time in the Vixen. No problems. I hate we won
>> > t be able to make this year. We have plans to be at High Valley
>> > Resort in north Georgia that weekend. I have several pictures and
>> > diagrams of routing into the UL area at SNF. I put these together
>> > for some of our local folks that are flying down. I will post
>> > them. ...hope they are helpful.
>> >
>> > Travis :D
>> >
>> > --------
>> > Travis Rayner
>> > Mobile, AL
>> > Skystar Vixen, N-789DF
>> > Continental IO-240, Prince P-Tip Prop
>> > ADI-II Autopilot
>> > AnyWhereMap Navigation with weather
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > Read this topic online here:
>> >
>> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=240137#240137
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > Attachments:
>> >
>> > http://forums.matronics.com//files/picture1_206.jpg
>> > http://forums.matronics.com//files/snf_ul_4_210.jpg
>> > http://forums.matronics.com//files/snf_ul_3_991.jpg
>> > http://forums.matronics.com//files/snf_ul_2_757.jpg
>> >
>> >
>> &================================================ the ties Day
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