Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:11 AM - Re: Yahoo news article - The Great Ethanol Scam (Michel Verheughe)
2. 05:51 AM - Re: Re: Charging System Theory - A few Questions (KITFOXZ@aol.com)
3. 08:14 AM - Re: Re: Yahoo news article - The Great Ethanol Scam (patrick reilly)
4. 08:23 AM - Re: Re: Charging System Theory - A few Questions (Dave G)
5. 08:23 AM - Re: Re: Charging System Theory - A few Questions (patrick reilly)
6. 09:16 AM - Re: Charging System Theory - A few Questions (darinh)
7. 11:04 AM - Fuel Flow Meter (George Wells)
8. 12:02 PM - rudder trim tab (william lurcott)
9. 04:18 PM - Cutting 2/12in. hole in Plexiglass doors (Dale Orth)
10. 04:30 PM - Re: Cutting 2/12in. hole in Plexiglass doors (darinh)
11. 06:11 PM - Installing Fuel Primer (wingnut)
12. 06:34 PM - Re: N100VX Vixen 25th hour (Eggstaf@aol.com)
13. 06:42 PM - Stuck Oil Filter (CDE2fly@aol.com)
14. 07:21 PM - Re: Cutting 2/12in. hole in Plexiglass doors (Tom Jones)
15. 07:35 PM - Re: Stuck Oil Filter (Roger Lee)
16. 07:43 PM - Re: rudder trim tab (Lowell Fitt)
17. 07:53 PM - Re: Stuck Oil Filter (Lowell Fitt)
18. 08:00 PM - Re: Installing Fuel Primer (Tom Jones)
19. 08:23 PM - Re: Stuck Oil Filter (CDE2fly@aol.com)
20. 09:20 PM - Re: Re: Charging System Theory - A few Questions (Guy Buchanan)
21. 09:41 PM - Re: Stuck Oil Filter (darinh)
Message 1
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| Subject: | RE: Yahoo news article - The Great Ethanol Scam |
> From: Rexinator [rexinator@gmail.com]
> Not that I'm trying to create any debate (certainly here we all agree ethanol
is bad).
> This just neatly explains the issue.
Yes, I agree that ethanol is bad, Rex, and because of that, I need now to pay twice
as much for Avgas in my Kitfox (with tax deduction I can make, Mogas is half
Avgas in Norway).
But how can anyone pay attention to an article that is aimed only at one thing:
Discredit ethanol? It would be like asking the Pope if he believes in God.
The idea is to use carbon dioxide neutral energy. Fossil fuel is something that
was supposed to release CO2 millions of years ago. That is the problem!
Is ethanol the correct CO2 neutral fuel? I leave that question to those who know
better than me. But the article from Yahoo was one-sided and if I am to read
that, I may as well read ... er, hum ... Mao's little red book! :-)
Cheers,
Michel Verheughe
Norway
Kitfox 3 - Jabiru 2200
Do not archive
<pre><b><font size=2 color="#000000" face="courier new,courier">
</b></font></pre></body></html>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Charging System Theory - A few Questions |
Darin,
Another Capacitor? OK, this will take a few more paragraphs to answer.
The short answer is that yes, it will help. All alternators produce voltage
that is full of peaks and valley's. Batteries produce smooth DC power.
This is problematic for sensitive avionics equipment because they run best
on pure Swiss chocolate smooth DC. The alternator's regulator minimizes
these peaks and valleys but, still they are there.
A large value (22,000 microfarad) filter capacitor will do a bunch of
smoothing of that pulsing, peaking, jerking short duration valley, voltage
being supplied by your alternators. If pure DC voltage is depicted by a smooth
straight line across the page, a long line of cursive lower case m's and
i's across the page is what the output voltage will look like unfiltered.
This alternator "noise" is a part of what you hear in your radio audio. A
filter capacitor located as close to the alternator regulator's output as is
practical is best to minimize it.
The water bucket analogy:
Consider a bucket of water. The bucket is full of water and there is a
small hole in the side of it near the bottom. A stream of water is coming
out of the hole propelled by the weight of the full bucket of water (head
pressure) and it is projecting out several inches to the side before gravity
has it's way with the stream and forces it to the ground. Let's just say for
fun that the stream hitting the ground is doing so at thirty-six inches
from the bucket horizontally. This must be a big (deep) bucket I am talking
about!
As long as the bucket is kept full, the stream is a full 36 inches strong.
Let the bucket get partially empty and the stream is hurting for
distance. (Insert prostate jokes here)
Instead of water, your filter capacitor stores electrical current. Keep
the capacitor full of electrons and the ship's buss will not feel much
effect from any of those valleys (low bucket water) --when the alternator is
outputting a valley. Add a peak or pulse of higher voltage to the
capacitor's stores and the buss only detects a minimal increase in "water pressure".
The capacitor is a pretty good passive voltage filter mechanism.
THE MOST IMPORTANT REQUIREMENT OF ALL ELECTRONICS (AVIONICS) EQUIPMENT IS
TO HAVE THE LUXURY OF SOLID, SMOOTH AND AMPLE DC POWER!
--Mess with that and you get what you get, --noisy radio receivers,
unintelligible radio transmissions, GPS receivers that crash and reboot, RADAR
jamming electronic countermeasures transmitters that tell the enemy it's just
you and your noisy sh*t overhead again!
The ship's battery plays a big role in keeping the buss smooth like Swiss
chocolate. The battery is actually a better filter than the capacitor but
it is located some distance from the alternator and this hurts. If noise
is not suppressed as soon as practical and hopefully right at the source, the
ship's buss will still be affected.
Shut the engine down and you have the ideal environment, no alternator
noise, no ignition impulse noise, and no electrostatic noise from all engine
vibration related mechanical parts clanging together.
We all should sell our Foxes and go sailplaning!
John
John P. Marzluf
Columbus, Ohio
Outback (out back in the garage)
In a message dated 5/17/2009 1:16:12 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
gerns25@netscape.net writes:
John,
Thanks for that reply...answered all my questions and them some! That all
makes sense and is basically how I understood the system but was not sure.
The fact is that I would like to be able to run my lighting, strobes and
navs along with a few other things like my deicing boots and radar jamming
counter measures transmitters (actually just my heater fans) so I need to
get my other alternator back on and see why it is causing my oil temp gauge
to fluctuate wildly. Which brings up another question (I'll make it blue
text to stand out):
Do I need another noise suppression capacitor on bolt on alternator? it
is the same (or very similar) to the Rotax add-on altenator but it runs on
the vacuum pump pad. It is internally regulated and rectified but does not
have any internal noise suppression. I noticed that the wiring diagram in
my engine installation manual shows the add-on alternator requiring a
capacitor also. I ask because someone told me I didn't need one on both onboard
and add-on alternators but it is there in the manual. I ordered one from
John and have it so I am going to put it on unless someone can tell me why
I don't need it. I get quite a bit of noise from it when I transmit...to
the point that the tower has a hard time understanding. This doesn't happen
when running on the Rotax generator that is on a capacitor.
By the way, the alternator coil leads broke. The shop that rebuilt it
said the original leads were very small and brittle and a couple other broke
just in the disassembly. Apparently, the place that supplied the alternator
did quite a bit of custom machining (custom shaft with spline gear, mount
and stock mounting bracket removal) but the attachment of the coil leads
was pretty crappy. They are now done with larger copper and ring terminals
on each lead. It is a Nippondenso 60A alternator if you are curious but
turned down like it is it only produce 30A - 40A....plenty for my bird.
--------
Darin Hawkes
Series 7
914 Turbo
Kaysville, Utah
**************A strong credit score is 700 or above. See Yours in Just 2
Easy Steps!
bcd=Maystrongfooter51709NO115)
Message 3
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| Subject: | RE: Yahoo news article - The Great Ethanol Scam |
Mike=2C If ethanol polluted gasoline has virtually no redeeming characteris
tics=2C and government mandating interference in the market economy promote
s only costly inefficienties=2C as government market interference always do
es=2C there IS only one side! The U.S. feeds the world with corn and to man
date burning food for energy when there are other sources is... well you dr
aw your own conclusion.
do not archive
Pat Reilly
Mod 3 582 Rebuild
Rockford=2C IL
> Date: Sun=2C 17 May 2009 09:10:10 +0200
> From: michel@online.no
> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Kitfox-List: RE: Yahoo news article - The Great Ethanol Scam
>
> > From: Rexinator [rexinator@gmail.com]
> > Not that I'm trying to create any debate (certainly here we all agree e
thanol is bad).
> > This just neatly explains the issue.
>
> Yes=2C I agree that ethanol is bad=2C Rex=2C and because of that=2C I nee
d now to pay twice as much for Avgas in my Kitfox (with tax deduction I can
make=2C Mogas is half Avgas in Norway).
>
> But how can anyone pay attention to an article that is aimed only at one
thing: Discredit ethanol? It would be like asking the Pope if he believes i
n God.
>
> The idea is to use carbon dioxide neutral energy. Fossil fuel is somethin
g that was supposed to release CO2 millions of years ago. That is the probl
em!
>
> Is ethanol the correct CO2 neutral fuel? I leave that question to those w
ho know better than me. But the article from Yahoo was one-sided and if I a
m to read that=2C I may as well read ... er=2C hum ... Mao's little red boo
k! :-)
>
> Cheers=2C
> Michel Verheughe
> Norway
> Kitfox 3 - Jabiru 2200
>
> Do not archive
>
> <pre><b><font size=2 color="#000000" face="courier new=2Ccourier">
>
===========
://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List</a>
===========
.com</a>
===========
tronics.com/contribution</a>
===========
>
> </b></font></pre>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Charging System Theory - A few Questions |
Nobody has adresses HOW the regulator rectifier works so I'll toss in that
bit.
Most of the alternators I've seen on the Rotax's are permanant magnet type,
meaning they have a magnet as the rotor in their center. When the magnet is
rotated, it's magnetic field causes electricity to be excited in the coils
surrounding it. In an open circuit this voltage can be quite high, 40V is
common. This electricity is alternating current. and must be changed into
direct current before we can use it. this is done externally on the stock
alternator using a recitifier bridge (a set of diodes). What you have now is
DC as far as it matters for us, but this type of alternator with the
permanant magnet cannot adjust it's output to match demand. It will put out
all it can, all the time and the faster it spins the more power it puts out
so we have to put a gate (regulator) of some type on the output to keep the
rush of electrons from frying all the stuff that gets hooked up to it.
There's two ways to go with regulators as we use them here. In most of them
we open a gate to send the excess power directly to ground whenever votage
exceeds a determined point, this is a shunt regulator and the type Rotax
supplies. The alternative is to hold back the invading hordes by slamming
the gate shut, opening the circuit. The second one is called a series
regulator. There are advantages and disadvantages to each. The Key West
regulator is a series type I believe, while all the tympanium types supplied
by Rotax are shunt regulators. Noise suppression, important to anyone with a
radio is supposed to be easier with shunt regulators.
The important thing here is that with a shunt regulator, the generating coil
is putting out basically all the power it is capable of, all the time. If
this power has to be shunted to ground, as it would if you had very low
loads, the regulator will get warmer than if you are using all the power
elsewhere. So if your system is properly sized and you are not actually
depleting the battery during a normal flight then adding generating capacity
will be a way to make your system noisier and less happy (just the opposite
of what you would guess).
The last way of doing it, and the best (IMO) is the excited field
alternator. In this one, the permanent magnet is replaced buy an
electromagnet, thus there is nothing generated until power is supplied to
energize the magnet. In these ones the regulator supplied the magnet coil
only enough power to make the output exactly match demand. Cool, quiet, and
efficient it is somewhat more expensive and complex. In any case it's not
used on Rotax, Jabiru, Hirth, or many others. It is used on your car though.
Although I believe this to be accurate and reliable information, as with
anything you read on the internet use common sense.
Do not archive,
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Charging System Theory - A few Questions |
John=2C Thank you for the electrical explainations. Make sure you chime in
as early as possible on electrical topics. Most electrical engineer degreed
people don't explain as simply and concise as you. Experience outweighs fo
rmal education every time. As Mark Twain said=2C "Don't let too much school
ing get in the way of getting a good education".
do not archive
Pat Reilly
Mod 3 582 Rebuild
Rockford=2C IL
> Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: Charging System Theory - A few Questions
> From: gerns25@netscape.net
> Date: Sat=2C 16 May 2009 22:14:28 -0700
> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
>
>
>
> KITFOXZ(at)aol.com wrote:
> > Hello Darin=2C
> >
> > I'll take a crack at your questions. Although I am not a degreed electr
onics engineer=2C I have worked my whole life as an electronics tech.=EF
=BD I earned my education in electronics through the United States Navy Avi
onics B School. This is a course of study comparable to many university ele
ctronics engineering programs of the time.
> >
> > First=2C your aircraft does not have a true "charging system". It simpl
y has a battery and an alternator/regulator that are in parallel with each
other. They are both sources of DC power. The alternator and it's rectifier
/regulator work as a system that produce a regulated output voltage of 13.8
- 14 VDC. The Rotax built-in alternator has a very limited current output
capability and so that regulated output of 13.8 - 14 VDC may fall below it'
s regulated voltage point if the ship's load is great enough.
> >
> > One of the battery's purposes is to help stabilize the alternator's out
put during these peak load times. That is why you see the ammeter show a ne
gative value at times. --The alternator is not keeping up with the power de
mands of the ship's power bus and so the battery is supplying the deficit p
ower. It is suffering a net discharge.....
> >
> > John P. Marzluf
> > Columbus=2C Ohio
> > Outback (out back in the garage)
> >
> >
>
>
> John=2C
>
> Thanks for that reply...answered all my questions and them some! That all
makes sense and is basically how I understood the system but was not sure.
The fact is that I would like to be able to run my lighting=2C strobes and
navs along with a few other things like my deicing boots and radar jamming
counter measures transmitters (actually just my heater fans) so I need to
get my other alternator back on and see why it is causing my oil temp gauge
to fluctuate wildly. Which brings up another question (I'll make it blue t
ext to stand out):
>
> Do I need another noise suppression capacitor on bolt on alternator? it i
s the same (or very similar) to the Rotax add-on altenator but it runs on t
he vacuum pump pad. It is internally regulated and rectified but does not h
ave any internal noise suppression. I noticed that the wiring diagram in my
engine installation manual shows the add-on alternator requiring a capacit
or also. I ask because someone told me I didn't need one on both onboard an
d add-on alternators but it is there in the manual. I ordered one from John
and have it so I am going to put it on unless someone can tell me why I do
n't need it. I get quite a bit of noise from it when I transmit...to the po
int that the tower has a hard time understanding. This doesn't happen when
running on the Rotax generator that is on a capacitor.
>
> By the way=2C the alternator coil leads broke. The shop that rebuilt it s
aid the original leads were very small and brittle and a couple other broke
just in the disassembly. Apparently=2C the place that supplied the alterna
tor did quite a bit of custom machining (custom shaft with spline gear=2C m
ount and stock mounting bracket removal) but the attachment of the coil lea
ds was pretty crappy. They are now done with larger copper and ring termina
ls on each lead. It is a Nippondenso 60A alternator if you are curious but
turned down like it is it only produce 30A - 40A....plenty for my bird.
>
> --------
> Darin Hawkes
> Series 7
> 914 Turbo
> Kaysville=2C Utah
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=244335#244335
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Charging System Theory - A few Questions |
John,
Thanks again for the reply. I liked the water bucket analogy...I am a civil engineer
working in the water industry. I can follow water because I can see it...electrons
are a bit harder for me to see.
--------
Darin Hawkes
Series 7
914 Turbo
Kaysville, Utah
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=244379#244379
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I have a New in box Navman Fuel Flow Meter for sale. $110 + $ 5 postage.
georgewells@roadrunner.com
Message 8
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Greetings,
I have been reading the list here for a while, and want to take the opportu
nity to say thanks to all of you.- I have a Series V with a Lycoming O-23
5 which is a great source of fun and unending lessons for me. There is one
issue that I have, and that is that I must always input right rudder. I exp
ect that at higher power settings, but at cruise? Anyway, I was wondering s
ince the aircraft is already covered and flying is there some add-on type t
ab that I could affix to the rudder so that I don't have to constantly push
on that right side. Cruise requires about 3-4 pounds or so of pressure. If
someone has a photo or drawing, I would appreciate that too, as I am very
visual. Thanks for any input.
Will Lurcott
Series V
Lyc O-235
Flagler Beach, FL
=0A=0A=0A
Message 9
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| Subject: | Cutting 2/12in. hole in Plexiglass doors |
Hi Guys,
Can anyone tell me the best way to cut a 2/12in. hole in each Plexiglass door
for Vista Vents. It's getting way too hot in Vegas to be without vents.
Thanks, Dale
--------
Dale
KitFox 7
Las Vegas, Nv
daleorth@embarqmail.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=244428#244428
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Cutting 2/12in. hole in Plexiglass doors |
Dale,
I am about to do the same thing...only I have done it before so I will share my
approach. I put the Vista vents in my model 3 doors using a Dremel sanding drum
and it worked very nicely. Fist I used one of my acrylic bits to start a
pilot hole right in the middle of the area I wanted to remove. Then I took my
Dremel sanding drum bit and started at an angle so it sort of cut its own way
through the acrylic. Once it was open enough, you simply enlarge the hole with
the sanding bit and your done. This is the way I will do it with my new doors.
--------
Darin Hawkes
Series 7
914 Turbo
Kaysville, Utah
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=244433#244433
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| Subject: | Installing Fuel Primer |
Trying to get back in the air after 4 months of down time. I'd like to start by
installing one of these:
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/acsprimer.php
I can't find a fitting on the aircraft spruce web site that would mate this thing
to the 1/8 id fuel primer line they sell. Also, I take it I'll need a 1/4 to
1/8 reducing Tee to tap into the feed from the tank but I can't find that either.
What am I missing?
--------
Luis Rodriguez
Model IV 1200
Rotax 912UL
Flying Weekly
Laurens, SC (34A)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=244441#244441
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| Subject: | Re: N100VX Vixen 25th hour |
Serial #1 Vixen has flown the required 25 hours, plus some, from Hilo,
Hawaii (ITO). On May,16 I gave my first ride to an EAA young eagle. It's a neat
feeling to do something positive for aviation.
Lloyd Eggstaff
Vixen 912 ULS
**************Recession-proof vacation ideas. Find free things to do in
the U.S.
(http://travel.aol.com/travel-ideas/domestic/national-tourism-week?ncid=emlcntustrav00000002)
Message 13
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| Subject: | Stuck Oil Filter |
Can someone verify if the Rotax 912S oil filter is a standard thread
(clockwise to tighten)? Getting ready for the first start and can't get the
darn oil filter off to purge the oil system. It's now clearly into the "need
a new filter" stage as I've bent/punctured/mangled it trying to get it off.
Tried PB Blast where the filter contacts the engine and it's just not
budging...any ideas...tourch/heat???
Thanks,
Chris
Soon to be flying Series 7/9129S
**************A strong credit score is 700 or above. See Yours in Just 2
Easy Steps!
bcd=Maystrongfooter51709NO115)
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Cutting 2/12in. hole in Plexiglass doors |
I just ordered the 2" snap vents from aircraft spruce. I was planing to use a
hole saw to cut the hole. My doors are lexan though. I'll try it on a scrap
piece of lexan first. If that doesn't work I'll try the dremel sanding drum.
--------
Tom Jones
Classic IV
503 Rotax, 72 inch Two blade Warp
Ellensburg, WA
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=244454#244454
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| Subject: | Re: Stuck Oil Filter |
left will loosen and right tighten. You may need a set of the oil filter channel
lock type pliers that have a set of sharp teeth to get a good grip. It will
come off to the left. You need the pliers to grip it around the base metal ring.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Service Center
520-574-1080
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=244459#244459
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| Subject: | Re: rudder trim tab |
Will,
I have been told by what I consider to be reliable sources that the engine
mounts designed for the Kitfox engines has no thrust offset - zero offset,
horizontal or vertical so right rudder is essentially built into the design.
I went through this for the first five years of flight on my Model IV and
had difficulty even considering a trim tab simply because it would look like
a bandage. I finally did the deed and it made a world of difference, not
only in cruise, but in the pattern as well. I hated right traffic patterns
because I had real problems coordinating the right rudder pedal with a right
turn. Everything just improved in bunches.
My airplane is gone, but the trim tab was about six inches top to bottom and
extended aft about an inch and a half or so. Overall it was triangular in
shape with a trimmed base so it riveted to the trailing edge and the rib
forward to prevent the trailing edge rivets from working as I adjusted it.
My ribs were of the Speedster style with an airfoil on the horizontal so
what I did there is drill through the rib and using a 4-40 blind nut from a
hobby store on one side and a screw of trimmed length inserted through the
tab. If you don't have the ribs in the rudder, I suppose you could go
through the fabric a bit oversizes and then use a tubular spacer of the
right length to accommodate the space between the 3/8" rib and the fabric,
though that might not be necessary that far back. I couldn't find any clear
photos, so made a drawing. As I recall, I bent the edges of the triangular
portion inward a little bit to create a firm contact with the fabric to
prevent air getting under and possibly lifting the tab.
Lowell
----- Original Message -----
From: "william lurcott" <lurcottstudios@yahoo.com>
Sent: Sunday, May 17, 2009 11:56 AM
Subject: Kitfox-List: rudder trim tab
Greetings,
I have been reading the list here for a while, and want to take the
opportunity to say thanks to all of you. I have a Series V with a Lycoming
O-235 which is a great source of fun and unending lessons for me. There is
one issue that I have, and that is that I must always input right rudder. I
expect that at higher power settings, but at cruise? Anyway, I was wondering
since the aircraft is already covered and flying is there some add-on type
tab that I could affix to the rudder so that I don't have to constantly push
on that right side. Cruise requires about 3-4 pounds or so of pressure. If
someone has a photo or drawing, I would appreciate that too, as I am very
visual. Thanks for any input.
Will Lurcott
Series V
Lyc O-235
Flagler Beach, FL
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Stuck Oil Filter |
Chris,
The thread is standard. I have always had to use one of the filter wrench
attachments that fit into a socket wrench type breaker bar - usually after
tapping it onto the end of the filter. From what you say, you may be passed
that point as that tool will only fit on the end of an undamaged filter.
The rim of the filter is heavy gauge steel and if you can get a pipe wrench
or channel locks on that without damaging anything, that should work.
Others might have other ideas.
Regarding purging the oil system. This is usually done after an oil change
to purge any air that might have been introduced into the system during the
oil change especially if the filter is changed or the magnetic plug is
removed for inspection. You will want to pressurize the tank per the
instructions after you remove the damaged filter and replace it with the new
one. During the purging process, the only open lines will be where the
compressed air is introduced - the oil tank, and where the oil will
eventually drain into a catch basin or bottle - the oil return line to the
tank.
Lowell
----- Original Message -----
From: <CDE2fly@aol.com>
Sent: Sunday, May 17, 2009 6:39 PM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Stuck Oil Filter
> Can someone verify if the Rotax 912S oil filter is a standard thread
> (clockwise to tighten)? Getting ready for the first start and can't get
> the
> darn oil filter off to purge the oil system. It's now clearly into the
> "need
> a new filter" stage as I've bent/punctured/mangled it trying to get it
> off.
> Tried PB Blast where the filter contacts the engine and it's just not
> budging...any ideas...tourch/heat???
>
> Thanks,
>
> Chris
> Soon to be flying Series 7/9129S
> **************A strong credit score is 700 or above. See Yours in Just 2
> Easy Steps!
> bcd=Maystrongfooter51709NO115)
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Installing Fuel Primer |
wingnut wrote:
> Trying to get back in the air after 4 months of down time. I'd like to start
by installing one of these:
>
> http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/acsprimer.php
>
> I can't find a fitting on the aircraft spruce web site that would mate this thing
to the 1/8 id fuel primer line they sell. Also, I take it I'll need a 1/4
to 1/8 reducing Tee to tap into the feed from the tank but I can't find that
either. What am I missing?
Luis, go to this link and click on hose barb then click on a picture that looks
like what you need to see the sizes available.
http://www.fittingsandmore.com/online_catalog.php?section=online_catalog_brass.html&ref=gmainhoseb&gclid=CPua_9juxJoCFQwxawodCjfmqA
--------
Tom Jones
Classic IV
503 Rotax, 72 inch Two blade Warp
Ellensburg, WA
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=244464#244464
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Stuck Oil Filter |
Thanks Lowell - I'll try the pipe wrench and let you know how it goes.
In a message dated 5/17/2009 10:54:24 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
lcfitt@sbcglobal.net writes:
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt@sbcglobal.net>
Chris,
The thread is standard. I have always had to use one of the filter wrench
attachments that fit into a socket wrench type breaker bar - usually after
tapping it onto the end of the filter. From what you say, you may be
passed
that point as that tool will only fit on the end of an undamaged filter.
The rim of the filter is heavy gauge steel and if you can get a pipe
wrench
or channel locks on that without damaging anything, that should work.
Others might have other ideas.
Regarding purging the oil system. This is usually done after an oil
change
to purge any air that might have been introduced into the system during
the
oil change especially if the filter is changed or the magnetic plug is
removed for inspection. You will want to pressurize the tank per the
instructions after you remove the damaged filter and replace it with the
new
one. During the purging process, the only open lines will be where the
compressed air is introduced - the oil tank, and where the oil will
eventually drain into a catch basin or bottle - the oil return line to the
tank.
Lowell
----- Original Message -----
From: <CDE2fly@aol.com>
Sent: Sunday, May 17, 2009 6:39 PM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Stuck Oil Filter
> Can someone verify if the Rotax 912S oil filter is a standard thread
> (clockwise to tighten)? Getting ready for the first start and can't get
> the
> darn oil filter off to purge the oil system. It's now clearly into the
> "need
> a new filter" stage as I've bent/punctured/mangled it trying to get it
> off.
> Tried PB Blast where the filter contacts the engine and it's just not
> budging...any ideas...tourch/heat???
>
> Thanks,
>
> Chris
> Soon to be flying Series 7/9129S
> **************A strong credit score is 700 or above. See Yours in Just 2
> Easy Steps!
> bcd=Maystrongfooter51709NO115)
>
**************A strong credit score is 700 or above. See Yours in Just 2
Easy Steps!
bcd=Maystrongfooter51709NO115)
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Charging System Theory - A few Questions |
At 10:14 PM 5/16/2009, you wrote:
>Thanks for that reply...answered all my questions and them
>some! That all makes sense and is basically how I understood the
>system but was not sure. The fact is that I would like to be able
>to run my lighting, strobes and navs along with a few other things
>like my deicing boots and radar jamming counter measures
>transmitters (actually just my heater fans) so I need to get my
>other alternator back on and see why it is causing my oil temp gauge
>to fluctuate wildly. Which brings up another question (I'll make it
>blue text to stand out):
By the way Darin,
I don't know if you're already doing it, but you should
definitely cross-post these to the Aeroelectric List. It is also
Matronics so you subscribe the same way you subscribed to this list.
Unfortunately you'll get lots of chaff, but particularly if Bob
Nucholls replies, you get some good wheat too.
Guy Buchanan, Kitfox List Moderator
San Diego, CA
K-IV 1200 / 582-C / Warp / 300 hrs. and counting
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Stuck Oil Filter |
lcfitt(at)sbcglobal.net wrote:
> Chris,
>
> ...Regarding purging the oil system. This is usually done after an oil change
> to purge any air that might have been introduced into the system during the
> oil change especially if the filter is changed or the magnetic plug is
> removed for inspection...
>
> ---
Lowell,
According to Rotax-Owner.com you do not need to purge the oil system after you
do a simple oil change. Basically if you work on the suction side of the system,
you will need to purge the system. Yes, the tank is on the suction side but
as long as you don't remove the tank and drain the suction line, you don't
need to purge it. I have attached a Technical Article from the site for anyones
information. It does a good job of describing the oils system, the SI's that
have been put out by Rotax and examples of when oil purging is required. Take
it for what it is worth but this is what they have to say about purging and
oil changes. I personally have purged my system after each oil change but to
be quite honest, I have never had a situation where the lifters had air in the
either before or after the oil change.
--------
Darin Hawkes
Series 7
914 Turbo
Kaysville, Utah
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=244473#244473
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/rotax_9_series_oil_change_129.pdf
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