Today's Message Index:
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1. 02:30 AM - Re: Gross weight VS DA (dave)
2. 06:18 AM - Re: Re: Gross weight VS DA (Guy Buchanan)
3. 08:15 AM - Re: mismatched egt's (dave)
4. 09:51 AM - Re: mismatched egt's (akflyer)
5. 04:13 PM - Re: Re: mismatched egt's (patrick reilly)
6. 06:03 PM - Re: mismatched egt's (carlisle)
7. 10:01 PM - HighWing Bungees (carlisle)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Gross weight VS DA |
WurlyBird wrote:
> Last flight it was about 85 F and I kept it down to 165-170 for taxi and saw
about 185 on climb out, twice. Low altitude cruise saw about 175-180 and at 5000'
it was about 60 F and water was 160-165 at cruise. My next landing required
me to back taxi a few hundred feet and when I got to the end of the runway
I was holding 180 so I canceled the flight.
>
> This is with the radiator lowered an inch and running about 25% Dex-cool
James, Sounds pretty good to me and temps don;t get past 185 to 190 F you should
be ok. Sounds quite typical. Rotax spec calls for 176 F but I would round
that off normal 160 to 180 normal operating temps and 180 to 190s a caution
zone with 200F a area to be danger.
Not all gauges are created equal and I think you will find others run similar.
--------
Rotax Dealer, Ontario Canada
http://www.cfisher.com/
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Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Gross weight VS DA |
At 10:02 PM 6/24/2009, you wrote:
>Last flight it was about 85 F and I kept it down to 165-170 for taxi
>and saw about 185 on climb out, twice. Low altitude cruise saw
>about 175-180 and at 5000' it was about 60 F and water was 160-165
>at cruise. My next landing required me to back taxi a few hundred
>feet and when I got to the end of the runway I was holding 180 so I
>canceled the flight.
Does sound a bit hot to me. Are you running a 160F
thermostat? (The after-market OMC ones are 160F, versus 135F for
stock.) Have you checked the thermostat to see if it's broken? (I've
broken two.) Have you made sure the water pump housing was burped?
(10mm on top.) Obviously you've checked for line restrictions and
that the head was burped.
With a similar radiator lowered 1" I'm good to about 95F
OAT, (<1500') whereupon I have to be careful taxiing and climbing
out. Murle sells a thicker aluminum radiator that should lower temps
quite a bit. I bought one a long time ago but have yet to install it.
Unfortunately it's just a bit larger than the "Skystar" unit so it
didn't fit directly in my cowl.
Guy Buchanan
San Diego, CA
K-IV 1200 / 582-C / Warp / 300 hrs. and counting
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: mismatched egt's |
akflyer wrote:
> why go straight for crank seals? First thing to do is what Whurly said. Swap
EGT senders and see if the high reading follows a sender or the display. Akflyerbobs
did the same thing and it was the display not the seals. Another thing
to check is for any corrosion or loose connections where the senders plug
into the display. Any added resistance in a connection will cause a huge error
in the reading. Start the checks at the most obvious (and cheapest and easiest
to fix) then move on to bigger and more expensive / time consuming repairs.
Here is what he said >> The plugs indicated a difference in temps >> so why
would changing leads change ? I assuming he is showing a leaner reading on
both plugs and EGT reading .
Dave
>
> Problem is this. Carbs won't match no matter what I do. Front cylinder runs hotter
all the time. I've adjusted the jet needle, put in larger main jet (.175),
matched the slides, etc and the fron always runs 100 to 150 deg hotter. Plugs
show it too. The front ones are obviously leaner with only slight browning
of the insulator.
>
> So the question is, if my crank seals are failing, wouldn't that lean BOTH the
carbs out or are these symptoms something else?
--------
Rotax Dealer, Ontario Canada
http://www.cfisher.com/
Awesome *New Forum *
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Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: mismatched egt's |
yep, had my head square in my a$$ on that one.. I thought I read it all but guess
I didn't. I was thinking of an issue akflyerbob had that was very similar,
we changed seals and it did not do anything to the high reading. ended up being
the EGT indicator not the leads.
--------
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Leonard Perry aka SNAKE
Soldotna AK
Avid "C" / Mk IV
582 IVO IFA
Full Lotus 1450
#1 snake oil salesman since 1-22-2009
hander outer of humorless darwin awards
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Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: mismatched egt's |
The front cylinder usually runs cooler than rear due to cold air entering
cowling and hitting front cyl first on air cooled. I had a 30 horse=2C fan
cooled=2C Kohler engine on an ultralite=2C no cowling=2C but it had cooling
baffels on the engine. I ran a colder plug on the rear cylinder. It gave a
more uniform burn color on the front and rear plugs. It was a pusher set u
p rather than a tractor. Has anybody tried different heat range plugs betwe
en front and rear cylinders? Seems like water cooled wouldn't have the grea
ter temp differencial as an air cooled.
Pat Reilly
Mod 3 582 Rebuild
Rockford=2C IL
> Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: mismatched egt's
> From: dave@cfisher.com
> Date: Thu=2C 25 Jun 2009 08:14:35 -0700
> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
>
>
>
> akflyer wrote:
> > why go straight for crank seals? First thing to do is what Whurly said.
Swap EGT senders and see if the high reading follows a sender or the displ
ay. Akflyerbobs did the same thing and it was the display not the seals. An
other thing to check is for any corrosion or loose connections where the se
nders plug into the display. Any added resistance in a connection will caus
e a huge error in the reading. Start the checks at the most obvious (and ch
eapest and easiest to fix) then move on to bigger and more expensive / time
consuming repairs.
>
>
>
> Here is what he said >> The plugs indicated a difference in temps >> so w
hy would changing leads change ? I assuming he is showing a leaner reading
on both plugs and EGT reading .
>
> Dave
>
> >
> > Problem is this. Carbs won't match no matter what I do. Front cylinder
runs hotter all the time. I've adjusted the jet needle=2C put in larger mai
n jet (.175)=2C matched the slides=2C etc and the fron always runs 100 to 1
50 deg hotter. Plugs show it too. The front ones are obviously leaner with
only slight browning of the insulator.
> >
> > So the question is=2C if my crank seals are failing=2C wouldn't that le
an BOTH the carbs out or are these symptoms something else?
>
>
> --------
> Rotax Dealer=2C Ontario Canada
> http://www.cfisher.com/
> Awesome *New Forum *
> http://rotaxaircraft.com/forum/
> Realtime Kitfox movies to separate the internet chatter from the truth
> http://www.youtube.com/profile_videos?user=kitfoxflyer
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=249961#249961
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: mismatched egt's |
Have switched probes and even replaced them without much difference.
BUT...When I switched to the next-up main jet size in both carbs (.165mm up to
.175mm) and moved the jet needle one notch richer, the problem was fixed. Now
EGT's are within 25 to 50 deg of each other and plugs have nice brown tint to
the insulator and look the same.
Boy I love these 2-stroke engines. They kind of force you to go the extra mile
and understand their workings more than most 'start and go' engines. Knowledge
is power!
Here's another theory. I have individual air filters on each carb instead of the
single oval filter who's lumen is common to both carbs. I wonder if the one
up front experiences a little different 'ram air' pressure as a result and might
cause the front to run leaner.
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Message 7
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| Subject: | HighWing Bungees |
Anyone used these? The material is quite a bit thicker than what you get from
Kitfox. Whereas you're supposed to wrap the OEM cords around the tubes 6 times,
measuring out the diameter of the HighWing cords across the available tubing
length, looks like 4 loops will be about max.
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