Kitfox-List Digest Archive

Sun 07/19/09


Total Messages Posted: 17



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 03:04 AM - Re: 582 stuck - update (Lynn Matteson)
     2. 04:07 AM - Re: 582 stuck - update (Ken Potter)
     3. 06:52 AM - Re: 582 stuck - update (ronlee)
     4. 09:40 AM - Re: 582 stuck - update (Shane Sather)
     5. 12:20 PM - Re: 582 stuck - update (Paul Franz - Merlin GT)
     6. 01:02 PM - Twin lead throttle cable (wingnut)
     7. 01:40 PM - Re: Twin lead throttle cable (jdmcbean)
     8. 03:44 PM - Re: Twin lead throttle cable (Tom Jones)
     9. 04:46 PM - Re: 582 stuck - update (Randy Daughenbaugh)
    10. 06:34 PM - Kreem Problem Follow Up (pperrynas)
    11. 06:34 PM - Re: 582 stuck - update (Dave G)
    12. 06:51 PM - Grey heads RV seal update (Pat Reilly)
    13. 07:14 PM - Re: Re: 582 stuck - update (Noel)
    14. 07:14 PM - Re: 582 stuck - update (Noel)
    15. 10:46 PM - 582 stuck - update (Cecil Stokesberry)
    16. 10:49 PM - Re: 582 stuck - update (Guy Buchanan)
    17. 11:27 PM - Re: Grey heads RV seal update (Guy Buchanan)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 03:04:32 AM PST US
    From: Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt@jps.net>
    Subject: Re: 582 stuck - update
    I had a similar experience just recently with a single-cylinder Briggs and Stratton engine that was out of a cultivator. The piston was so stuck in the bore that it needed to be pried out. I found a sticky substance in the pan that was grey-looking and very sticky. They grey color was probably from the aluminum cylinder walls, but the stickiness I just can't explain. I used alcohol, MEK, mineral spirits, water, lacquer thinner, and finally carburetor cleaner to try to dissolve the stuff. None of these products seemed to cut the stuff, but with some soaking, the carb cleaner finally got rid of it....not like it should have, though. Of course, the EPA has weakened the carb cleaner to the point that you could damn near drink it...it sure isn't as potent as it used to be. I hope you find the answer. Lynn Matteson Kitfox IV Speedster, taildragger Jabiru 2200, #2062, 707.7 hrs Sensenich 62"x46" Wood prop Electroair direct-fire ignition system Status: flying do not archive On Jul 19, 2009, at 12:47 AM, Cecil Stokesberry wrote: > Stuck seems to be the right word for this situation. > I removed the head - still stuck. > I removed the gear box - still stuck. > I then took off the cylinders - still stuck but not as much. > Took the engine out of the plane and took the ign and oil > pump off. Had a good look inside the crankcase and elsewhere. > And..............found a layer of what looks and feels like tar. > Everything is covered with this and is very sticky. > Even the rings are stuck with the stuff. > It seems to clean up with carb cleaner. > I think this is the "stuck" culprit. > So, where did this stuff come from? > I think maybe the engine was stored with some kind of preservatives > when shipped here. > Then during many storage years it turned into this stuff. > The engine is dated Jan 1991. > I finally hung it on the airplane in 2006 and first run-up for > break-in in 2008. Every thing seemed normal for the hour > break-in procedure. Then during taxi test in 2009 the stuck > problem developed. > > Any ideas how this stuff might have developed ? > There is no evidence of any metal to metal dings. > Fuel used was Conoco prem with no evidence of ethanol. > The oil tank shows oil being consumed normally. > > Is there any way to clean up this stuff without splitting the case? > > I don't have the special tools to disassemble and assemble the engine. > And they are pricey. > Anyone have these tools that would be willing to rent them to me. > > Cecil in N. Idaho > N161CP Kitfox IV - 582 C 1050 > > > www.matronics.com/contribution _- > ===========================================================


    Message 2


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    Time: 04:07:49 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: 582 stuck - update
    From: "Ken Potter" <kjpotter@sympatico.ca>
    I would be interested in any other's experience of Cecil's problem. My 582 was delivered to the previous owner in 1991. In 2003, not even having run it yet he had it "updated" by a rotax dealer. When I purchased the project from him in 2007 I remember him saying that after the update it had been "preserved" by the dealer. Now, my experience as a mechanical engineer tells me that this is normally done just using a preservative oil which is compatible with other oils. But as I'll be ready to start and break mine in within the next couple of months, Cecil's observations have me wondering..... -------- Ken Potter Model II, No. 483 Rotax 582, C-Box, 98% Complete C-FJKP (marks reserved) Lanark, Ontario Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=253696#253696


    Message 3


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    Time: 06:52:28 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: 582 stuck - update
    From: "ronlee" <rlee468@comcast.net>
    Transmission shops use carburetor cleaner to clean the burnt on varnish off parts all the time. They have it in five gallon containers. maybe you could find some shop with a container large enough to soak the whole crank case. I do not know what it would do to the seals though. -------- Ron Lee Tucson, Arizona Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=253706#253706


    Message 4


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    Time: 09:40:51 AM PST US
    From: "Shane Sather" <shanesather@netkaster.ca>
    Subject: Re: 582 stuck - update
    This seems almost like mine was when I first kit my fox. The first few hours on the engine all was good. Then all hell poured loose and the inside of the engine got coated with a tar like stuff and had to be cleaned all out. We believe it came from the fuel tanks. Do not archive. ----- Original Message ----- From: Cecil Stokesberry To: Kitfox Sent: Saturday, July 18, 2009 10:47 PM Subject: Kitfox-List: 582 stuck - update Stuck seems to be the right word for this situation. I removed the head - still stuck. I removed the gear box - still stuck. I then took off the cylinders - still stuck but not as much. Took the engine out of the plane and took the ign and oil pump off. Had a good look inside the crankcase and elsewhere. And..............found a layer of what looks and feels like tar. Everything is covered with this and is very sticky. Even the rings are stuck with the stuff. It seems to clean up with carb cleaner. I think this is the "stuck" culprit. So, where did this stuff come from? I think maybe the engine was stored with some kind of preservatives when shipped here. Then during many storage years it turned into this stuff. The engine is dated Jan 1991. I finally hung it on the airplane in 2006 and first run-up for break-in in 2008. Every thing seemed normal for the hour break-in procedure. Then during taxi test in 2009 the stuck problem developed. Any ideas how this stuff might have developed ? There is no evidence of any metal to metal dings. Fuel used was Conoco prem with no evidence of ethanol. The oil tank shows oil being consumed normally. Is there any way to clean up this stuff without splitting the case? I don't have the special tools to disassemble and assemble the engine. And they are pricey. Anyone have these tools that would be willing to rent them to me. Cecil in N. Idaho N161CP Kitfox IV - 582 C 1050


    Message 5


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    Time: 12:20:47 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: 582 stuck - update
    From: "Paul Franz - Merlin GT" <paul@eucleides.com>
    On Sun, July 19, 2009 9:34 am, Shane Sather wrote: > ...... The first few hours on the > engine all was good. Then all hell poured loose and the inside of the engine got > coated with a tar like stuff and had to be cleaned all out. We believe it came from > the fuel tanks. I've been following this thread and I too suspect the fouling wasn't present when the engine was first run. Something in contact with the fuel is the cause rather than the pickling process on the engine done for long term storage. -- Paul A. Franz Registration/Aircraft - N14UW/Merlin GT Engine/Prop - Rotax 914/NSI CAP Bellevue WA CULTURE "A civilized society's first line of defense is not the law, police and courts but customs, traditions and moral values. Behavioral norms, mostly transmitted by example, word of mouth and religious teachings, represent a body of wisdom distilled over the ages through experience and trial and error. They include important thou-shalt-nots such as shalt not murder, shalt not steal, shalt not lie and cheat, but they also include all those courtesies one might call ladylike and gentlemanly conduct. The failure to fully transmit values and traditions to subsequent generations represents one of the failings of the so-called greatest generation. ... Policemen and laws can never replace customs, traditions and moral values as a means for regulating human behavior. At best, the police and criminal justice system are the last desperate line of defense for a civilized society. Our increased reliance on laws to regulate behavior is a measure of how uncivilized we've become." -- Walter E. Williams, George Mason University economics professor "The Founding Fathers established a system which meant a radical break from that which preceded it. A written constitution would provide a permanent form of government, limited in scope, but effective in providing both liberty and order. Government was not to be a matter of self-appointed rulers, governing by whim or harsh ideology. It was not to be government by the strongest or for the few. Our principles were revolutionary. We began as a small, weak republic. But we survived. Our example inspired others, imperfectly at times, but it inspired them nevertheless. This constitutional republic, conceived in liberty and dedicated to the proposition that all men are created equal, prospered and grew strong. To this day, America is still the abiding alternative to tyranny. That is our purpose in the world -- nothing more and nothing less." -- Ronald Reagan "The nation which indulges towards another an habitual hatred, or an habitual fondness, is in some degree a slave. It is a slave to its animosity or to its affection, either of which is sufficient to lead it astray from its duty and its interest." -- George Washington About the Federalist Papers - wiki <http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Federalist_Papers> All of them presented in the Library of Congress <http://thomas.loc.gov/home/histdox/fedpapers.html> Searchable e-text of the Federalist and other documents too. <http://www.foundingfathers.info/federalistpapers/>


    Message 6


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    Time: 01:02:29 PM PST US
    Subject: Twin lead throttle cable
    From: "wingnut" <wingnut@spamarrest.com>
    I'm installing the twin lead throttle cable from Aircraft Spruce: http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/rotaxdualthrottle.php It works ok but it lacks the ratcheting lock that my old throttle had. In order to hold idle, I have to keep the adjustable resistance set fairly high to counteract the throttle springs. I find it cumbersome. Anyone have a better solution? -------- Luis Rodriguez Model IV 1200 Rotax 912UL Flying Weekly Laurens, SC (34A) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=253762#253762


    Message 7


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    Time: 01:40:57 PM PST US
    From: "jdmcbean" <jdmcbean@kitfoxaircraft.com>
    Subject: Twin lead throttle cable
    Luis, We have offered this type of cable for some time with the fittings for the carbs. We can also offer them with as a vernier type throttle. Fly Safe !! John & Debra McBean Ph 208.337.5111 www.kitfoxaircraft.com "The Sky is not the Limit... It's a Playground" -----Original Message----- From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of wingnut Sent: Sunday, July 19, 2009 2:00 PM Subject: Kitfox-List: Twin lead throttle cable I'm installing the twin lead throttle cable from Aircraft Spruce: http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/rotaxdualthrottle.php It works ok but it lacks the ratcheting lock that my old throttle had. In order to hold idle, I have to keep the adjustable resistance set fairly high to counteract the throttle springs. I find it cumbersome. Anyone have a better solution? -------- Luis Rodriguez Model IV 1200 Rotax 912UL Flying Weekly Laurens, SC (34A) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=253762#253762


    Message 8


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    Time: 03:44:20 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Twin lead throttle cable
    From: "Tom Jones" <nahsikhs@elltel.net>
    Luis, the throttle that came with my kit has just the adjustable friction lock. It took me only a short while to get used to operating it with one hand. I turn all the friction off for taxi, takeoff and climb out because my hand will be on the throttle all that time anyhow. When I reduce throttle and level off I can set the throttle for the desired RPM and turn the friction knob with two fingers and thumb to hold it there, then take my hand off the throttle. When I descend, enter the pattern and land I take the friction off and keep my hand on the throttle again. I started out flying my kitfox by setting the friction enough to hold the RPM but still be able to push the throttle in...I thought. On my second or third takeoff I took my had off to scratch my nose and it slipped back to idle at about 100 feet off the ground and scared the crap out of me. I thought the engine had done did the dreaded two stroke seizure. -------- Tom Jones Classic IV 503 Rotax, 72 inch Two blade Warp Ellensburg, WA Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=253781#253781


    Message 9


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    Time: 04:46:03 PM PST US
    From: "Randy Daughenbaugh" <rjdaugh@rapidnet.com>
    Subject: 582 stuck - update
    I would like to second Shane's suggestion. I had a similar problem with my 912S. It ran great for several flights then the starter carbs (choke is a misnomer for this engine) stuck. I took them apart, cleaned them up, and then flew a couple of flights and they gummed up again. I got smart this time and drained all the gas from the tanks, cleaned the starter carbs again, and then with new gas, had no more problems. I hate to admit that I have further confirmation that the problem was with the gas (or more correctly, with the gas tanks!). I took the bad gas home intending to use it to burn slash piles and lost track of it. I put it in my lawn mower and ended up pulling the carb and cleaning it! (*&%#$*(& This sounds different in scale, but ,,,, Randy _____ From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Shane Sather Sent: Sunday, July 19, 2009 10:34 AM Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: 582 stuck - update This seems almost like mine was when I first kit my fox. The first few hours on the engine all was good. Then all hell poured loose and the inside of the engine got coated with a tar like stuff and had to be cleaned all out. We believe it came from the fuel tanks. Do not archive. ----- Original Message ----- From: Cecil <mailto:stokesc@wildblue.net> Stokesberry Sent: Saturday, July 18, 2009 10:47 PM Subject: Kitfox-List: 582 stuck - update Stuck seems to be the right word for this situation. I removed the head - still stuck. I removed the gear box - still stuck. I then took off the cylinders - still stuck but not as much. Took the engine out of the plane and took the ign and oil pump off. Had a good look inside the crankcase and elsewhere. And..............found a layer of what looks and feels like tar. Everything is covered with this and is very sticky. Even the rings are stuck with the stuff. It seems to clean up with carb cleaner. I think this is the "stuck" culprit. So, where did this stuff come from? I think maybe the engine was stored with some kind of preservatives when shipped here. Then during many storage years it turned into this stuff. The engine is dated Jan 1991. I finally hung it on the airplane in 2006 and first run-up for break-in in 2008. Every thing seemed normal for the hour break-in procedure. Then during taxi test in 2009 the stuck problem developed. Any ideas how this stuff might have developed ? There is no evidence of any metal to metal dings. Fuel used was Conoco prem with no evidence of ethanol. The oil tank shows oil being consumed normally. Is there any way to clean up this stuff without splitting the case? I don't have the special tools to disassemble and assemble the engine. And they are pricey. Anyone have these tools that would be willing to rent them to me. Cecil in N. Idaho N161CP Kitfox IV - 582 C 1050 href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List">http://www.matronhref "http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c


    Message 10


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    Time: 06:34:26 PM PST US
    Subject: Kreem Problem Follow Up
    From: "pperrynas" <pperryrph@sbcglobal.net>
    Again, thanks to everyone who responded to my orig post about the Kreem Prob, and I thought I would add some more info on what prompted me to look into the fuel tanks for a problem as well as post pics I took of the inside of the tanks with a mini webcam. I purchased the plane from the orig builder about a year ago, and started using unleaded gas either 89 or 93 oct (912ul 80hp) around Sept.(engine time around 100hrs). Within a couple of months I started having problems every once in a while when starting the engine it would run extremely rough initially, but after shutting down, turning prop by hand, it would start and run fine. I could note when it started but running rough, that I would have a cold cylinder (usually #1 or #2) . These symptoms gradually got worse until recently, after engine was shut down and cooled off (a few hours), I would have no compression at all and have to turn prop over by hand or crank with starter, then wait, then do it some more to finally start getting compression..i.e. sticking valves. Time on engine is now about 130hrs. I talked to a rotax repairman in Arlington,TN (Rodney Hardin) and he told me he had seen this happen on 912's and had found fiberglass fuel tanks being "dissolved" by the ethanol in the auto gas and the resulting contamination was causing the stuck valve problem. When inspecting by tanks thru the fuel opening I could see significant areas of exposed fiberglass so following his suggestion I removed the valve covers one at a time and sprayed a small amount of carb cleaner on valve stems and turned prop by hand until I got enough compression to start the engine, drained the fuel system and disconnected fuel lines, and then hooked up a temp fuel tank, and added a fuel system/valve cleaner additive and ground ran for about 45 minutes on Friday. On Saturday when I first turned the prop by hand I did not have the normal full compression(like I feel when shutting down engine) , but enough to start engine and it ran normally (no roughness) and so I ground ran fo! r anothe r 20 minutes. On Sunday I turned prop over by hand and it had what I believe to be "full compression" on all cylinders like it used to before this scenario started. Mr Hardin said he had seen fiberglass tanks (not kitfox ones) that were deteriorated so bad they were not structurally sound and attributed this to the ethanol in the gas. At this point I can only say that I believe something in the unleaded gas reacted with either the fiberglass resin, or the Kreem, or the mil-h-6000 fuel hose and caused the sticking valve problem. My plan now is to remove wings and use MEK to remove the Kreem and then re-slosh with Kreem per several replies to my original post. I am also going to change the fuel lines to one of the types recommended on this or the rotax forum. Sorry for the length of this post, but maybe someone else may benefit from my experience. Thanks again, Paul Perry KFIV 912ul Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=253805#253805 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/rt_tank_003_746.jpg


    Message 11


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    Time: 06:34:26 PM PST US
    From: "Dave G" <occom@ns.sympatico.ca>
    Subject: Re: 582 stuck - update
    The deposits appear in different places and seem related to fiberglass tanks. References to black deposits in engines is more common in marine applications. Here is a link to one. http://www.ardujenski.com/files/documents/fueltest.pdf It relates to alchohol but perhaps these deposits show up in new tanks moreso than older ones. In any case it looks like this material is soming into the engine from the tanks. Maybe a good waashout or seasoning with fuel which must then be disposed is an answer. Anybody starting up a new "fox from early nineties?


    Message 12


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    Time: 06:51:58 PM PST US
    From: "Pat Reilly" <patreilly43@hotmail.com>
    Subject: Grey heads RV seal update
    Kitfoxers, Started and ran my 582 grey head engine. It ran fine. A Trike pilot who considers himself an expert on 582's tells me to pull the rotary valve and install newer type seals or it will difinetly fail. What's the general consenses on this topic? The engine has 100 hours and was stored about 2 years before I cranked it up. Pat Reilly Mod 3 582 Rebuild Rockford, IL


    Message 13


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    Time: 07:14:13 PM PST US
    From: "Noel" <noelloveys@yahoo.ca>
    Subject: Re: 582 stuck - update
    Have you tried brake cleaner. It is usually rubber safe and will dissolve most tars. I'd like to see an analysis done on the gunk... My bet is it will be epoxy resin. Check to see if any of this goo is in the float bowls... I have the funny feeling you may find your tanks dissolving too! Goo in the base can only get there through the carb... in the fuel. Mineral oils are used to mothball engines and I find it hard to see that stuff turning to goo while the engine is operating. Noel -----Original Message----- From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of ronlee Sent: 19 July 2009 11:20 Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: 582 stuck - update Transmission shops use carburetor cleaner to clean the burnt on varnish off parts all the time. They have it in five gallon containers. maybe you could find some shop with a container large enough to soak the whole crank case. I do not know what it would do to the seals though. -------- Ron Lee Tucson, Arizona Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=253706#253706


    Message 14


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    Time: 07:14:13 PM PST US
    From: "Noel" <noelloveys@yahoo.ca>
    Subject: 582 stuck - update
    I suggest you guys start testing your fuel for ethanol concentration. Noel From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Shane Sather Sent: 19 July 2009 14:04 Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: 582 stuck - update This seems almost like mine was when I first kit my fox. The first few hours on the engine all was good. Then all hell poured loose and the inside of the engine got coated with a tar like stuff and had to be cleaned all out. We believe it came from the fuel tanks. Do not archive. ----- Original Message ----- From: Cecil Stokesberry <mailto:stokesc@wildblue.net> Sent: Saturday, July 18, 2009 10:47 PM Subject: Kitfox-List: 582 stuck - update Stuck seems to be the right word for this situation. I removed the head - still stuck. I removed the gear box - still stuck. I then took off the cylinders - still stuck but not as much. Took the engine out of the plane and took the ign and oil pump off. Had a good look inside the crankcase and elsewhere. And..............found a layer of what looks and feels like tar. Everything is covered with this and is very sticky. Even the rings are stuck with the stuff. It seems to clean up with carb cleaner. I think this is the "stuck" culprit. So, where did this stuff come from? I think maybe the engine was stored with some kind of preservatives when shipped here. Then during many storage years it turned into this stuff. The engine is dated Jan 1991. I finally hung it on the airplane in 2006 and first run-up for break-in in 2008. Every thing seemed normal for the hour break-in procedure. Then during taxi test in 2009 the stuck problem developed. Any ideas how this stuff might have developed ? There is no evidence of any metal to metal dings. Fuel used was Conoco prem with no evidence of ethanol. The oil tank shows oil being consumed normally. Is there any way to clean up this stuff without splitting the case? I don't have the special tools to disassemble and assemble the engine. And they are pricey. Anyone have these tools that would be willing to rent them to me. Cecil in N. Idaho N161CP Kitfox IV - 582 C 1050 href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List">http://www.matronhref "http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c


    Message 15


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    Time: 10:46:41 PM PST US
    Subject: 582 stuck - update
    From: Cecil Stokesberry <stokesc@wildblue.net>
    The instructions I used for first start of engine was to add some oil to the fuel just in case the oil injector did not work. This I did and maybe I put too much oil in the fuel and the oil injector did work as it should. Maybe this was the start of it all. I will look in the flood bowl to see if there is any gunk. Carb clearer works very well in dissolving this black gunk. I will also try brake cleaner to see how it works. I doubt if either will harm the crank bearings, but I am concerned what damage the cleaner might do to the oil seals or o-rings. Cecil Kitfox IV 1050 582 C


    Message 16


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    Time: 10:49:19 PM PST US
    From: Guy Buchanan <bnn@nethere.com>
    Subject: Re: 582 stuck - update
    At 06:28 PM 7/19/2009, you wrote: >The deposits appear in different places and seem related to >fiberglass tanks. References to black deposits in engines is more >common in marine applications. Here is a link to one. Here in Ramona we had the dreaded sludge in a Kitfox III with a 912. It was attributed to bad gas, and the tanks were unequivocally exonerated. Guy Buchanan San Diego, CA K-IV 1200 / 582-C / Warp / 400 hrs. and counting


    Message 17


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    Time: 11:27:01 PM PST US
    From: Guy Buchanan <bnn@nethere.com>
    Subject: Re: Grey heads RV seal update
    At 06:47 PM 7/19/2009, you wrote: >A Trike pilot who considers himself an expert on 582's tells me to >pull the rotary valve and install newer type seals or it will difinetly fail. If he means the new rotary valve seal that's a big negative. The problem got solved when everyone switched to the "silicate free" coolant. I've got 400 hours on original rotary seals with no problem. (Knock on woodie.) Guy Buchanan San Diego, CA K-IV 1200 / 582-C / Warp / 400 hrs. and counting




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