---------------------------------------------------------- Kitfox-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Mon 09/07/09: 23 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 12:24 AM - (Off topic) Towing or being towed (Michel Verheughe) 2. 02:06 AM - Re: Kitfox-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 09/04/09 (great bear) 3. 03:19 AM - Re: Re: ROP versus LOP...might be off-topic for some (Lynn Matteson) 4. 03:25 AM - Re: Kitfox Factory Fly-in (Lynn Matteson) 5. 04:04 AM - Re: Re: ROP versus LOP...might be off-topic for some (Lynn Matteson) 6. 04:20 AM - Re: Wrecked a 2, 709, rudders, gear, two plane solution (dave) 7. 04:22 AM - Re: Wrecked a 2, 709, rudders, gear, two plane solution (dave) 8. 05:39 AM - Re: bubbles under the skin (Catz631@aol.com) 9. 07:33 AM - Re: (Off topic) Towing or being towed (akflyer) 10. 07:39 AM - Re: Wrecked a 2, 709, rudders, gear, two plane solution (akflyer) 11. 09:38 AM - Re: Wrecked a 2, 709, rudders, gear, two plane solution (dave) 12. 11:06 AM - Re: Wrecked a 2, 709, rudders, gear, two plane solution (akflyer) 13. 11:25 AM - Re: Kitfox-List Digest: 14 Msgs - 09/06/09 (Ed Gray) 14. 11:55 AM - Re: Re: Kitfox-List Digest: 14 Msgs - 09/06/09 (Patrick Reilly) 15. 01:01 PM - Re: Re: Kitfox-List Digest: 14 Msgs - 09/06/09 (Lynn Matteson) 16. 01:08 PM - Re: Kitfox-List Digest: 14 Msgs - 09/06/09 (akflyer) 17. 03:31 PM - Re: Wrecked a 2, 709, rudders, gear, two plane solution (dave) 18. 03:44 PM - Kitfox wheel pants (eric) 19. 04:18 PM - Re: Re: Kitfox-List Digest: 14 Msgs - 09/06/09 (bjones@dmv.com) 20. 05:23 PM - Re: Wrecked a 2, 709, rudders, gear, two plane solution (akflyer) 21. 05:24 PM - Re: Re: Kitfox-List Digest: 14 Msgs - 09/06/09 (Patrick Reilly) 22. 07:19 PM - Re: Wrecked a 2, 709, rudders, gear, two plane solution (dave) 23. 11:08 PM - Re: Wrecked a 2, 709, rudders, gear, two plane solution (wingman) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 12:24:16 AM PST US From: Michel Verheughe Subject: Kitfox-List: (Off topic) Towing or being towed A French friend of mine was towing a glider when he got problem and had to land. Here is a photo where is is pulled to the hangar by a tractor. Why? Look carefully at the propeller. One blade is about ten centimeters shorter! Being himself a glider pilot, Yves had no problem with a dead-stick landing; they were climbing right above the airfield. But ... how can a propeller just loose ten centimeters? I don't understand how it can happen. Split in two, yes. A blade coming entirely looose, yes. But ... loose one end? Cheers, Michel Verheughe Norway Kitfox 3 - Jabiru 2200 with 300 hours and still going strong. Do not archive ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 02:06:50 AM PST US From: great bear Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: Kitfox-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 09/04/09 Hello fellow builders and flyers......I was reading Jeffs message regarding tail wheel landings and would like to offer my two cents here. I have been flying taildraggers for 28 years now and have found this explaination to work best when offering landing help to those having trouble with landings.....when on final flare just before touchdown in a nose wheel aircraft the proper attitude is three point plus a few degrees, the main gear touch and then the nosewheel....as the nosewheel touches the ground the angle of attack is decreased and liftis diminished and most people relax the stick....works. Now on to the taildraggers....same deal. three point attitude plus a few degrees.....except now we are talking more angle of attack....remember three point attitude plus a few degrees here....so what is going to touch down first? The tailwheel....now we are not talkingcarrier landings here...but tailwheel first and then the mains. Same rules apply...as the mains touch the angle of attack is decreased and lift diminishesand you pull the stick to yourlap....with practice all three wheels will touch down at the same time ...but that comes with pratice....tailwheel slightly first is what I would call perfect! this will give you good controlauthority and with the proper tailwheel setup you will have effective directional control. I know your going to need to be able to tap a brake in order to keep it straight at first but I can say I have to remember to use the brakes just to keep the rust polished off therotors....this works for me. BTW I am building a kitfox 5 outback and just getting started...I will be needing advice so the group can get even with me for these two cents....GARY ----- Original Message ---- From: Kitfox-List Digest Server Sent: Saturday, September 5, 2009 1:59:17 AM Subject: Kitfox-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 09/04/09 * ================================================= Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive ================================================= Today's complete Kitfox-List Digest can also be found in either of the two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest formatted in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version of the Kitfox-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text editor such as Notepad or with a web browser. HTML Version: http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=html&Chapter 09-09-04&Archive=Kitfox Text Version: http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=txt&Chapter 09-09-04&Archive=Kitfox =============================================== EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive =============================================== ---------------------------------------------------------- Kitfox-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Fri 09/04/09: 3 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 05:27 AM - Re: Wrecked a 2, 709, rudders, gear, two plane solution (Jeffrey Dill) 2. 01:16 PM - Re: Stabilzer struts upgrade? (Mike Chaney) 3. 06:19 PM - Re: Wrecked a 2, 709, rudders, gear, two plane solution (akflyer) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 05:27:39 AM PST US Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: Wrecked a 2, 709, rudders, gear, two plane solution From: "Jeffrey Dill" <1dillfamily@comcast.net> Sorry, am replying to messages from last spring which escaped my attention. Guy asked for a picture of my tailwheel setup and I have tried to attach one taken yesterday. I attached a tie-wrap from chain to spring on the right side to show the amount of stretch that is required to hook it up. The J-3 I flew for my 709 (ride with the FAA) had a significant amount of slack from rudder horn to tailwheel, I think I sent a picture of that last winter. The stark difference is what prompted me to take a closer look. I bought some chain to loosen, but adding a link to each side produces such slack as to risk, or practically assure, spring detachment. I placed an order for compression springs from Spruce, which will hopefully eliminate that possibility. Now, having belatedly read your notes, I might go back to the tension I had and consider the sizable domain of reasons for the sudden darting I was experiencing. *I have read to keep tire pressure at 9 PSI, I was running about 15 due to problems keeping the bead sealed. Why so soft? *The training subsequent to my wreck revealed a significant negative transfer from 30 years of nosewheel flying. I was moving the stick forward immediately after touchdown, and believe me, it was unconscious, but never never never did it cause me to dart or change direction at all in the J-3, Supercruiser, or converted 172. Those all went where I asked them to. * I was holding the airplane off the ground until such slow speed as to be unable to meter the descent for soft touchdown. On the occasions where I got close to the proverbial "landing in a stall", I touched tailwheel first and forced the mains into dropping from their location, still maybe a foot from the ground. Add a little bit of bank to that situation and you can see how I might get thrown to the opposite bank in the ensuing bounce, now with less than stall airpseed. Having scarcely any control authority, I would have to ride it out at the mercy of what seemed random physics. I did this in the J-3 as well, until I realized that touching down at stall is B.S... go for the soft touch while you can, and then plant the tailwheel ASAP, in that order. * Since I had obtained the airplane used and never actually measured the main gear tow, I don't know if that was a factor. Now both main gear are new from a model 4. I lined them up as carefully as I could. I was seeking a degree of tow out, but wound up with less than that because of tooling limitations. *I was taught to stay off of the brakes. I think that, with a little practice on a day that things were going well, I could have learned to use them in a pinch without making things worse. As it was, the only trick in my bag was the go-around, and when you are heading for the grass, that runway is short even for a Kitfox. I have not flown my model 2 since I wrecked it, but it is close to ready and I would like to before winter. Naturally I am apprehensive about it. Every pilot I flew with in remedial training told me to get rid of the Kitfox; most said to get a certified airplane. So, I bought a second Kitfox and will build the Classic 4 in due time. I figure that if you guys can do it, so can I. I have flown my share of challenging aircraft and, like the rest, it is just a matter of understanding the unique concerns and strategies to deal with them. I will say reservedly that I have found no eagerness among tailwheel CFIs to actually get into my airplane to help me figure this out. So, it will be baby steps with wide runways or grass strips and light winds. -------- Jeff Dill Model 2 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=261385#261385 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/767jd_tailwheel_spring_setup_132.jpg ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 01:16:21 PM PST US From: Mike Chaney Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Stabilzer struts upgrade? Dave - I flew for a number of years with the older ones without any problems but I think the company suggested the upgrade.- I finally decided that the 3/1 6ths looked pretty small and upgraded.-The newer struts are beefier and I feel a bit better.- - Mike Chaney --- On Thu, 9/3/09, Dave G wrote: From: Dave G Subject: Kitfox-List: Stabilzer struts upgrade? HI, I am in the final steps of repairing my model IV. I notice that my ssta b struts, supplied with a skystar/denny crossover kit from '91 have the sma ller 3/16 attachements. Is this an issue worth attention, should I upgrade to the 1/4" ones? - Dave Goddard KF IV 1050 / 582 / Warp =0A=0A=0A ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 06:19:06 PM PST US Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: Wrecked a 2, 709, rudders, gear, two plane solution From: "akflyer" On a tail wheel, you have to be ready on the brakes. If she starts to get away from you, at that critical transition from having enough air over the rudder to make it effective, and the tail wheel still inches off the ground, (or in your case light due to the down elevator) your only option is to get on the brakes! I was running tight chains on mine with compression springs, but with the chains tight, I could not get the tail wheel to unlock and swivel for tight turns into parking. I had to loosen them up and it made it a little more forgiving on the landings. Landings, I always practice and perform full stall tail wheel first on the numbers (or before depending on the runway I am on). I fly into and out of some very short strips and what we will do in a pinch, is what we practice as the norm. Some one way strips I go into leave NO room for error. you miss judge one foot of altitude and your eating trees at the end or river bank at the beginning. On landing, the elevator controls airspeed, the power controls decent rate PERIOD. If you want to drag it in slow, keep the power on and ride both elevator and power to keep speed and altitude under control. If you are falling out of the sky and bouncing hard, it is because you are flaring to high and hold it off at to high an altitude. The J3, PA 12 etc. that you flew were easier on you because of the longer moment on the tail. There is no real foot work required to keep a 12 or J3 or 18 heading down the runway unless you have a nasty crosswind, but believe me, if any of the above start swinging on you, the ONLY way you will get them back is with good brakes. Been there, done that and have the Tee shirt (and scuffed wing tips). Without using brakes, how do you land short? I can consistently drag mine in and be stopped and turned around in under 75'. The second the mains are on the ground I am STANDING on the mushy stock Matco brakes. I am going to do the pedal mods for better braking when I take mine off floats and go back to wheels so I can lock them up at touch down if need be. Just my .02... and that wont get you a starbucks even if you kick in another $3.00 -------- DO NOT ARCHIVE Leonard Perry aka SNAKE Soldotna AK Avid "C" / Mk IV 582 IVO IFA Full Lotus 1450 #1 snake oil salesman since 1-22-2009 hander outer of humorless darwin awards Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=261513#261513 ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 03:19:57 AM PST US From: Lynn Matteson Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Re: ROP versus LOP...might be off-topic for some I'm thinking that this TBI is a bit new to them, and it might just be that later on they will. Apparently they don't even offer the intake flange, either. Although Paul, their rep at Oshkosh, said that they have done major testing on their engine and on Jabiru's , and that shows that they've had it for some time. Lynn Matteson Kitfox IV Speedster, taildragger Jabiru 2200, #2062, 760.3 hrs Sensenich 62"x46" Wood prop Electroair direct-fire ignition system Rotec TBI-40 injection Status: flying On Sep 6, 2009, at 11:23 PM, mhubel wrote: > > Thanks, If I go in this direction, now I know what to expect. I am > a bit surprised that Rotec does not offer the option of some pre > made assemblies to mount the mixture and primer cables. > > -------- > Mark Hubelbank > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=261811#261811 > > ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 03:25:25 AM PST US From: Lynn Matteson Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Kitfox Factory Fly-in Hey Stan, you really ought to get that Rotax engine looked at....seems to be burning WAY too much oil. On the other hand, you're probably killing off a whole bunch of those Idaho mosquitoes. : ) Lynn Matteson Kitfox IV Speedster, taildragger Jabiru 2200, #2062, 758.3 hrs Sensenich 62"x46" Wood prop Electroair direct-fire ignition system Rotec TBI-40 injection Status: flying do not archive On Sep 6, 2009, at 1:19 AM, wrote: > Greetings from the 25th Anniversary Kitfox Factory Fly-in! More > than 2 dozen aircraft gathered at Homedale Municipal Airport west > of Boise, Idaho this weekend to revel in all things Kitfox & Avid. > Over an almost constant roar of Rotax, Jabiru, and Rotec engines, > the attendees enjoyed food, fun, conversation and, of course, a lot > of flying. The weather was great in Homedale although a few pilots > didn't make it for fear of a weather system expected to arrive Sunday. > > One Kitfox from California made a forced landing about 40 NM from > Homedale but there were no injuries, damage was minimal, and the > aircraft was recovered by trailer later in the day. > > It seems safe to say that a good time was had by all. > > Mike G. > N728KF, Kitfox IV-1200 Speedster > Phoenix, AZ ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 04:04:00 AM PST US From: Lynn Matteson Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Re: ROP versus LOP...might be off-topic for some After about three weeks of using the TBI without hooking up a control cable to the primer button, I finally did it and it works great. Here are some pictures of how I made a small bellcrank to actuate my button, and of the bellcrank that I built that transferred throttle cable motion from one side of the TBI to the other side and increase the throw of the throttle to provide better control/easier operation. The orange bellcrank also shows the bracket that allows for attachment of the throttle cable and for the mixture control cable. Regarding the primer control, I was kinda cramped for room in the engine compartment, so the mechanical "advantage" of the leverage is a non-advantage. The picture doesn't show the cable attachment, but it is too close for proper operation, meaning that it takes a lot of puling power on the cable to get the button depressed, but it does work. I'm going to rework it to provide a better mechanical advantage. And yes, the cable goes into the cabin right alongside the mixture control and throttle cables. Here is a picture of the main bellcrank/cable attachment device that I built....the orange device (in case the captions get mixed up). You can see the brackets that I welded on where the mixture (top hole with slot), and throttle (bottom hole with slot) control cables go. I built this up out of aluminum, and TIG-welded the assembly together...steel could also be used, of course. Because I wanted to retain the original throttle cable, and because I wanted to increase the travel of the throttle for better control of rpm, I made the arms long and short accordingly. I used the former "choke" cable to the original Bing carb for the mixture control cable...painting the knob red, of course. I sent this picture to Rotec, per their request, so as to maybe give Jabiru owners another way to make the connections, but apparently they haven't posted it yet. This required bending of the end of the throttle slide-actuating attachment, but it was an easy bend, and this mechanism works perfectly. And here is the primer button-actuating bellcrank. If I can do a little "massaging" of the firewall footwell area, I'll be able to lengthen the upper part of the bellcrank, and that will make for an easier pull on the cable. Right now the cable only moves about a half- inch, and requires a bit of a pull. Lynn Matteson Kitfox IV Speedster, taildragger Jabiru 2200, #2062, 760.3 hrs Sensenich 62"x46" Wood prop Electroair direct-fire ignition system Rotec TBI-40 injection Status: flying On Sep 6, 2009, at 9:30 PM, mhubel wrote: > > I am considering using the Rotac TBI 40 for a Jabiru 3300 in a > Zenith CH601XL. > > I wonder what your experience was with the primer button on the > regulator, did you connect it to a cable in the cabin? If so just > what sort of assembly was used? > > I was also wondering how the mixture cable was supported, I don't > see any method of supporting the mixture cable in the pictures on > the ROTAC web site. > > -------- > Mark Hubelbank > > ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 04:20:52 AM PST US Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: Wrecked a 2, 709, rudders, gear, two plane solution From: "dave" Aerocet 1100's are a decent float in the water but under floated some what. I try to avoid rough grass strips and seaplane ramps as the amphib gear is not built super tough. It is all SS And it will crack and bend in time. I have replace alot of gear parts with 4130 chrome moly that I have made for it . Floats are a compromise, most amphib float made now are light duty especially on the gear, Czeck, downwind sharks, puddlejumper , Aerocet 1100s. I will might be doing the test flying of the new 1400 floats from Clamar soon http://www.clamarfloats.com/1400.htm These are not your 10k$ float but about 20 k . If you have seen a Clamar before you will know that they are a float in demand. They make up to 3500s and are about 5 miles from me . They will also offer a lower priced version in kitform. These will the best constructed LSA float in the market from what I seen so far. I just got back from a 3 day trip on floats doing service to a plane in the bush. 10 hours on Aerocets and about 3 hours on Kitfox on Full lotus 1260s. Both have their attributes but the full lotus struggles to get on the step with 2 on board. Aerocet much faster off the water. Hirth engines-- no experience. Rotax Dealer, Ontario Canada Flying Videos and Kitfox Info http://www.cfisher.com/ Realtime Kitfox movies to separate the internet chatter from the truth http://www.youtube.com/profile_videos?user=kitfoxflyer -------- Rotax Dealer, Ontario Canada http://www.cfisher.com/ Awesome *New Forum * http://rotaxaircraft.com/forum/ Realtime Kitfox movies to separate the internet chatter from the truth http://www.youtube.com/profile_videos?user=kitfoxflyer Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=261839#261839 ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 04:22:32 AM PST US Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: Wrecked a 2, 709, rudders, gear, two plane solution From: "dave" akflyer wrote: > I have not flown the3 Aerocets so I cant tell ya on that one. Where is your C o G in relation to the step on full lotus and what model full lotus ? -------- Rotax Dealer, Ontario Canada http://www.cfisher.com/ Awesome *New Forum * http://rotaxaircraft.com/forum/ Realtime Kitfox movies to separate the internet chatter from the truth http://www.youtube.com/profile_videos?user=kitfoxflyer Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=261840#261840 ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 05:39:54 AM PST US From: Catz631@aol.com Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: bubbles under the skin Thanks for the replies Lynn,Keith and Lowell ! Got another flight in yesterday. After pricking the bubbles,they are staying flat to the surface so, so far so good. It's nice to know that I am not the only one who has had this problem. I may or may not use the adhesive under the skin depending on how it goes. It looks nice now and you can't tell where I put the hole in the bubbles. They have not reinflated. Dick Maddux Fox 4 Milton,Fl ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 07:33:50 AM PST US Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: (Off topic) Towing or being towed From: "akflyer" two words. Manufacturing defect. -------- DO NOT ARCHIVE Leonard Perry aka SNAKE Soldotna AK Avid "C" / Mk IV 582 IVO IFA Full Lotus 1450 #1 snake oil salesman since 1-22-2009 hander outer of humorless darwin awards Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=261859#261859 ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ Time: 07:39:11 AM PST US Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: Wrecked a 2, 709, rudders, gear, two plane solution From: "akflyer" 1450s and the CG (most rearward I plan to load it 19") is 6" ahead of the step. -------- DO NOT ARCHIVE Leonard Perry aka SNAKE Soldotna AK Avid "C" / Mk IV 582 IVO IFA Full Lotus 1450 #1 snake oil salesman since 1-22-2009 hander outer of humorless darwin awards Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=261860#261860 ________________________________ Message 11 ____________________________________ Time: 09:38:49 AM PST US Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: Wrecked a 2, 709, rudders, gear, two plane solution From: "dave" akflyer wrote: > 1450s and the CG (most rearward I plan to load it 19") is 6" ahead of the step. on 1260s straight floats , full lotus recos the C of G to be 4 " ahead of the step. I found that solo this works ok but dual you cannot get up on the step with full forward stick. What size was your old floats ? -------- Rotax Dealer, Ontario Canada http://www.cfisher.com/ Awesome *New Forum * http://rotaxaircraft.com/forum/ Realtime Kitfox movies to separate the internet chatter from the truth http://www.youtube.com/profile_videos?user=kitfoxflyer Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=261881#261881 ________________________________ Message 12 ____________________________________ Time: 11:06:09 AM PST US Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: Wrecked a 2, 709, rudders, gear, two plane solution From: "akflyer" ahhh yes.. I have flown the Fox on 1220 and 1260. If you get the CG far enough ahead of the step to be able to get on step at gross, the nose of the floats will dig in and ship water over the top if you come off the power too fast when you land. That is why I went to the 1450s for my Avid. Few tricks to help get ya on step on the 1260s (all of which I have personally done and use all the time in my buddies KF II on my old 1260s). Full power then AGGRESSIVE full up to full down to get it rocking. Normal on the third or fourth pop you can get it to push over onto step. You have to really slam that stick though to get it to "pop" over. Run one float up onto the grass or mud bank and she will jump right onto step then get back in the water for normal takeoff. If you have a small grass island in the lake, just run across that and you will be on step when ya hit the other side. Allot of times, you can get her to go on step DOWN wind but cant get on step upwind. These floats don't step turn like a normal float. To make them turn nice, you have to give it full down and get them to ride on the front half of the hull. Normal floats you would hold in a little back stick to keep that sweet spot, NOT on Full lotus. Get it on step down wind, push that nose over and full power step turn into wind, make normal take off. Use full flaps to help push the nose over. Allot of times, just popping in full flaps will get her to lay over, but as soon as it is on step, I take the flaps back down to about 5 degrees. I am normally flying in pretty windy conditions, and do not like the diminished aileron response, especially when I roll a float out of the water and want to hold it and pop the other float out. I want all aileron control I can get and I just don't like the feel with full flaps in. Any other tricks I can think of, I will let ya know. Anyone who is considering getting full lotus for your KF or Avid, get the 1450s. They were designed for the KF or Avid type aircraft and have 15" more float from the step forward so the noses wont dig when you set the CG of the plane far enough back on the floats. -------- DO NOT ARCHIVE Leonard Perry aka SNAKE Soldotna AK Avid "C" / Mk IV 582 IVO IFA Full Lotus 1450 #1 snake oil salesman since 1-22-2009 hander outer of humorless darwin awards Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=261895#261895 ________________________________ Message 13 ____________________________________ Time: 11:25:05 AM PST US From: "Ed Gray" Subject: Kitfox-List: RE: Kitfox-List Digest: 14 Msgs - 09/06/09 I need help with my tailwheel spring. I installed a Matco tailwheel (full swivel) I bought from Kitfox. It has a single leaf spring with about a 30 degree bend. While taxi testing on the mains and allowing the tail to drop to the runway, the large bolt and castle nut through the swivel has contacted the bottom tube of the rudder and slightly bent it. The spring is obviously too weak. Do I need a thicker spring or another leaf to double it? As I recall the spring is part of the Matco tailwheel kit. The plane weighs #525 and there is only 40 lbs. on the tailwheel. All advice appreciated. Now taxi testing and waiting for the Faa registration to come through. It wants to fly but I am holding her down! A pilot friend says any FAA licensed inspector can do the sign-off. I was thinking only an FAA guy or EAA designee could do it Ed Gray, Dallas, KII , 582 do not archive -----Original Message----- From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kitfox-List Digest Server Sent: Monday, September 07, 2009 1:59 AM Subject: Kitfox-List Digest: 14 Msgs - 09/06/09 * ================================================= Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive ================================================= Today's complete Kitfox-List Digest can also be found in either of the two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest formatted in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version of the Kitfox-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text editor such as Notepad or with a web browser. HTML Version: http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=html&Chapter 09-09-06&Archive=Kitfox Text Version: http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=txt&Chapter 2009-09-06&Archive=Kitfox =============================================== EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive =============================================== ---------------------------------------------------------- Kitfox-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Sun 09/06/09: 14 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 05:26 AM - Re: Mod 3 582 Rebuild (Catz631@aol.com) 2. 05:47 AM - Re: CG (Tom Jones) 3. 05:52 AM - bubbles under the skin (Catz631@aol.com) 4. 06:31 AM - Re: bubbles under the skin (Lynn Matteson) 5. 12:59 PM - Re: Wrecked a 2, 709, rudders, gear, two plane solution (akflyer) 6. 01:41 PM - (Lenzotti) 7. 02:24 PM - Re: bubbles under the skin (Lynn Matteson) 8. 04:36 PM - Re: bubbles under the skin (n61kf) 9. 06:33 PM - Re: ROP versus LOP...might be off-topic for some (mhubel) 10. 07:44 PM - Re: bubbles under the skin (Lowell Fitt) 11. 07:56 PM - Factory Fluy-in (Lowell Fitt) 12. 08:07 PM - Re: bubbles under the skin (Lynn Matteson) 13. 08:09 PM - Re: Re: ROP versus LOP...might be off-topic for some (Lynn Matteson) 14. 08:26 PM - Re: ROP versus LOP...might be off-topic for some (mhubel) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 05:26:11 AM PST US From: Catz631@aol.com Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Mod 3 582 Rebuild Pat, Looks real nice !!! You will like that new gear. Of course you probably don't remember the old one. Dick Maddux Milton,Fl ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 05:47:18 AM PST US Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: CG From: "Tom Jones" [quote="kirkhull(at)kc.rr.com"]Looking for the cg limits on a classic 4 1200. does anyone have them handy? Also looking for info on the arm of the grove gear and if it changed from the factory gear? > [b] The CG limits for the Classic 4 are 10.2 to 16 inches. The grove gear sits forward of the factory gear. Some one with one of those will need to supply that measurement. -------- Tom Jones Classic IV 503 Rotax, 72 inch Two blade Warp Ellensburg, WA Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=261715#261715 ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 05:52:51 AM PST US From: Catz631@aol.com Subject: Kitfox-List: bubbles under the skin You know, it's always something! Yesterday I noticed some very large and small bubbles under the skin of my aircraft located over my right fuel tank. Some of them were about 4 inches in diameter. These protruded about 1/2 inch above the surface. Now my question is, "what caused that ?" The only thing I can think of is fuel vapor passing thru the top of the tank but after 15 years ??? Anyway I stuck a pin in each one to let the air out and the bubbles dropped flush with the rest of the skin. I quess at this point I will put a damp rag over each "bubble" that I pricked and apply a hot iron in order to shrink the fabric a little and possibly reactivate the glue. Any body ever have this happen? It is only on the right tank and is spread pretty much across the tank area. I was pretty much mentally preparing to yank these tanks out sometime after the first of the year and install new tanks because of the gasohol that is mandated after the first of the year but I hate to do it sooner. In fact I don't want to do it at all. Anyway I will keep a jaundiced eye on it (as I have the Kream in my tank) and prick and iron as necessary (sounds bad huh Lynn )? Dick Maddux Fox 4 Milton,Fl ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 06:31:17 AM PST US From: Lynn Matteson Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: bubbles under the skin Sounds bad, alright, but how 'bout injecting some of the proper "glue" into those pricked holes? In the model planes we would just prick the holes and run an iron over the area, activating the adhesive. But in our "real" planes, maybe the person who applied the covering over the tank area didn't apply enough Poly Brush over the area. At least that's what I recall doing to mine. I know I applied Poly Brush over the ribs and the false ribs (yes, I made up false ribs to go over the tanks), but have to admit that I don't recall whether I applied it over the whole tank or not...I'll have to look at my pictures or re-read the directions which I followed to the letter (those that made sense, anyway..: ) ). Lynn Matteson Kitfox IV Speedster, taildragger Jabiru 2200, #2062, 758.3 hrs Sensenich 62"x46" Wood prop Electroair direct-fire ignition system Rotec TBI-40 injection Status: flying On Sep 6, 2009, at 8:50 AM, Catz631@aol.com wrote: > You know, it's always something! Yesterday I noticed some very > large and small bubbles under the skin of my aircraft located over > my right fuel tank. Some of them were about 4 inches in diameter. > These protruded about 1/2 inch above the surface. Now my question > is, "what caused that ?" The only thing I can think of is fuel > vapor passing thru the top of the tank but after 15 years ??? > Anyway I stuck a pin in each one to let the air out and the bubbles > dropped flush with the rest of the skin. I quess at this point I > will put a damp rag over each "bubble" that I pricked and apply a > hot iron in order to shrink the fabric a little and possibly > reactivate the glue. Any body ever have this happen? It is only on > the right tank and is spread pretty much across the tank area. I > was pretty much mentally preparing to yank these tanks out sometime > after the first of the year and install new tanks because of the > gasohol that is mandated after the first of the year but I hate to > do it sooner. In fact I don't want to do it at all. Anyway I will > keep a jaundiced eye on it (as I have the Kream in my tank) and > prick and iron as necessary (sounds bad huh Lynn )? > > Dick Maddux > > Fox 4 > > Milton,Fl > > www.matronics.com/contribution _- > ========================================================== ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 12:59:43 PM PST US Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: Wrecked a 2, 709, rudders, gear, two plane solution From: "akflyer" I have not flown the3 Aerocets so I cant tell ya on that one. -------- DO NOT ARCHIVE Leonard Perry aka SNAKE Soldotna AK Avid "C" / Mk IV 582 IVO IFA Full Lotus 1450 #1 snake oil salesman since 1-22-2009 hander outer of humorless darwin awards Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=261766#261766 ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 01:41:38 PM PST US From: Lenzotti ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 02:24:16 PM PST US From: Lynn Matteson Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: bubbles under the skin Now that I look at the tank areas of my wings, I see that the fabric IS bonded to the tanks, but only because the Poly Brush soaks through the fabric, and where it touches the tanks, it is bonded to the tanks. Where it is not in contact with the tank....where it lifts away to tangent up and over each rib....it is of course not bonded there. So I guess if I was not going to remove the tanks, I would either inject some Poly Brush under the bubble, which might soften the color coat, and therefore require some finish work, or MEK the whole area down to the bare fabric, and then apply Poly Brush liberally through the fabric, thereby bonding the fabric to the tank. But before doing this, I'd make sure that the fabric was shrunk with the iron. Then do the normal spray coats of Poly Brush, Poly Spray, etc. At least that's the way I THINK it should happen....I've been wrong before though....once. : ) Lynn Matteson Kitfox IV Speedster, taildragger Jabiru 2200, #2062, 760.3 hrs Sensenich 62"x46" Wood prop Electroair direct-fire ignition system Rotec TBI-40 injection Status: flying On Sep 6, 2009, at 9:27 AM, Lynn Matteson wrote: > > Sounds bad, alright, but how 'bout injecting some of the proper > "glue" into those pricked holes? In the model planes we would just > prick the holes and run an iron over the area, activating the > adhesive. But in our "real" planes, maybe the person who applied > the covering over the tank area didn't apply enough Poly Brush over > the area. At least that's what I recall doing to mine. I know I > applied Poly Brush over the ribs and the false ribs (yes, I made up > false ribs to go over the tanks), but have to admit that I don't > recall whether I applied it over the whole tank or not...I'll have > to look at my pictures or re-read the directions which I followed > to the letter (those that made sense, anyway..: ) ). > > Lynn Matteson > Kitfox IV Speedster, taildragger > Jabiru 2200, #2062, 758.3 hrs > Sensenich 62"x46" Wood prop > Electroair direct-fire ignition system > Rotec TBI-40 injection > Status: flying > > > On Sep 6, 2009, at 8:50 AM, Catz631@aol.com wrote: > >> You know, it's always something! Yesterday I noticed some very >> large and small bubbles under the skin of my aircraft located over >> my right fuel tank. Some of them were about 4 inches in diameter. >> These protruded about 1/2 inch above the surface. Now my question >> is, "what caused that ?" The only thing I can think of is fuel >> vapor passing thru the top of the tank but after 15 years ??? >> Anyway I stuck a pin in each one to let the air out and the >> bubbles dropped flush with the rest of the skin. I quess at this >> point I will put a damp rag over each "bubble" that I pricked and >> apply a hot iron in order to shrink the fabric a little and >> possibly reactivate the glue. Any body ever have this happen? It >> is only on the right tank and is spread pretty much across the >> tank area. I was pretty much mentally preparing to yank these >> tanks out sometime after the first of the year and install new >> tanks because of the gasohol that is mandated after the first of >> the year but I hate to do it sooner. In fact I don't want to do it >> at all. Anyway I will keep a jaundiced eye on it (as I have the >> Kream in my tank) and prick and iron as necessary (sounds bad huh >> Lynn )? >> >> Dick Maddux >> >> Fox 4 >> >> Milton,Fl >> >> www.matronics.com/contribution _- >> ========================================================== > > ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 04:36:09 PM PST US Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: bubbles under the skin From: "n61kf" Dick, I have the same thing going on the surface over my tanks. I have not attempted a cure yet, but was leaning toward injecting some thinned polytac under the bubbles. I had this same thing happen with poly-fiber over fiberglass leading edges on my Skybolt, so I'm not so sure that fuel has anything to do with it. -------- Keith Schneider Red Stewart Airfield Waynesville Ohio KF IV 912ul Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=261784#261784 ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 06:33:23 PM PST US Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: ROP versus LOP...might be off-topic for some From: "mhubel" I am considering using the Rotac TBI 40 for a Jabiru 3300 in a Zenith CH601XL. I wonder what your experience was with the primer button on the regulator, did you connect it to a cable in the cabin? If so just what sort of assembly was used? I was also wondering how the mixture cable was supported, I don't see any method of supporting the mixture cable in the pictures on the ROTAC web site. -------- Mark Hubelbank Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=261793#261793 ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ Time: 07:44:51 PM PST US From: "Lowell Fitt" Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: bubbles under the skin Lynn, Got a question. Are the bubbles under the fabric, or between the fabric and finish coat? I had very small bubbles - to 1/4", most much smaller between the fabric and finish coat, and they were all filled with fuel. I resloshed the tank, and lived with the bubbles. I was able to reduce the larger ones by shaving with a razor blade and touching up the aerothane with a touch up brush. If they are larger and under the fabric, maybe one suggestion. I found once that using one of the Polyfiber adhesives - solvent based, caused an ugly wrinkling of the paint layer - sort of like crinkle paint. I then tried injecting unthickened structural adhesive and moving it around under the bad area with a roller. That worked fine and no change to the surface. Lowell ----- Original Message ----- From: Sent: Sunday, September 06, 2009 5:50 AM Subject: Kitfox-List: bubbles under the skin > You know, it's always something! Yesterday I noticed some very large and > small bubbles under the skin of my aircraft located over my right fuel > tank. > Some of them were about 4 inches in diameter. These protruded about 1/2 > inch > above the surface. Now my question is, "what caused that ?" The only thing > I > can think of is fuel vapor passing thru the top of the tank but after 15 > years ??? Anyway I stuck a pin in each one to let the air out and the > bubbles > dropped flush with the rest of the skin. I quess at this point I will put > a > damp rag over each "bubble" that I pricked and apply a hot iron in order > to > shrink the fabric a little and possibly reactivate the glue. Any body ever > have this happen? It is only on the right tank and is spread pretty much > across the tank area. I was pretty much mentally preparing to yank these > tanks > out sometime after the first of the year and install new tanks because of > the > gasohol that is mandated after the first of the year but I hate to do it > sooner. In fact I don't want to do it at all. Anyway I will keep a > jaundiced > eye on it (as I have the Kream in my tank) and prick and iron as necessary > (sounds bad huh Lynn )? > > Dick Maddux > > Fox 4 > > Milton,Fl > ________________________________ Message 11 ____________________________________ Time: 07:56:15 PM PST US From: "Lowell Fitt" Subject: Kitfox-List: Factory Fluy-in Like Mike Gibbs, I would also like to comment on the factory fly-in. This is the first one I have been to since the beginning of the John and Debra McBean era. I liked the format very much. Like Mike mentioned, there was a lot of engine noises, as there was never a moment that someone wasn't going up or coming back. There were several spontaneous fly-outs, low passes, formation flights, lots of rides given to us builders and others, and a lot of time to just sit and get acqainted and re-acquainted. The food was good the weather was perfect and from what I heard, everyone was glad they had come. I hope to be flying by next year and am looking forward to being there again. Lowell ________________________________ Message 12 ____________________________________ Time: 08:07:46 PM PST US From: Lynn Matteson Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: bubbles under the skin Lowell- I assume you meant to address this to Dick...he's the one with the bubbles. : ) Lynn Matteson Kitfox IV Speedster, taildragger Jabiru 2200, #2062, 760.3 hrs Sensenich 62"x46" Wood prop Electroair direct-fire ignition system Rotec TBI-40 injection Status: flying do not archive On Sep 6, 2009, at 10:31 PM, Lowell Fitt wrote: > > > Lynn, > > Got a question. Are the bubbles under the fabric, or between the > fabric and finish coat? > > I had very small bubbles - to 1/4", most much smaller between the > fabric and finish coat, and they were all filled with fuel. I > resloshed the tank, and lived with the bubbles. I was able to > reduce the larger ones by shaving with a razor blade and touching > up the aerothane with a touch up brush. > > If they are larger and under the fabric, maybe one suggestion. I > found once that using one of the Polyfiber adhesives - solvent > based, caused an ugly wrinkling of the paint layer - sort of like > crinkle paint. I then tried injecting unthickened structural > adhesive and moving it around under the bad area with a roller. > That worked fine and no change to the surface. > > Lowell > > > ----- Original Message ----- From: > To: > Sent: Sunday, September 06, 2009 5:50 AM > Subject: Kitfox-List: bubbles under the skin > > >> You know, it's always something! Yesterday I noticed some very >> large and >> small bubbles under the skin of my aircraft located over my right >> fuel tank. >> Some of them were about 4 inches in diameter. These protruded >> about 1/2 inch >> above the surface. Now my question is, "what caused that ?" The >> only thing I >> can think of is fuel vapor passing thru the top of the tank but >> after 15 >> years ??? Anyway I stuck a pin in each one to let the air out and >> the bubbles >> dropped flush with the rest of the skin. I quess at this point I >> will put a >> damp rag over each "bubble" that I pricked and apply a hot iron in >> order to >> shrink the fabric a little and possibly reactivate the glue. Any >> body ever >> have this happen? It is only on the right tank and is spread >> pretty much >> across the tank area. I was pretty much mentally preparing to yank >> these tanks >> out sometime after the first of the year and install new tanks >> because of the >> gasohol that is mandated after the first of the year but I hate to >> do it >> sooner. In fact I don't want to do it at all. Anyway I will keep a >> jaundiced >> eye on it (as I have the Kream in my tank) and prick and iron as >> necessary >> (sounds bad huh Lynn )? >> >> Dick Maddux >> >> Fox 4 >> >> Milton,Fl > > ________________________________ Message 13 ____________________________________ Time: 08:09:34 PM PST US From: Lynn Matteson Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Re: ROP versus LOP...might be off-topic for some After about three weeks of using the TBI without hooking up a control cable to the primer button, I finally did it and it works great. Here are some pictures of how I made a small bellcrank to actuate my button, and of the bellcrank that I built that transferred throttle cable motion from one side of the TBI to the other side and increase the throw of the throttle to provide better control/easier operation. The orange bellcrank also shows the bracket that allows for attachment of the throttle cable and for the mixture control cable. Regarding the primer control, I was kinda cramped for room in the engine compartment, so the mechanical "advantage" of the leverage is a non-advantage. The picture doesn't show the cable attachment, but it is too close for proper operation, meaning that it takes a lot of puling power on the cable to get the button depressed, but it does work. I'm going to rework it to provide a better mechanical advantage. And yes, the cable goes into the cabin right alongside the mixture control and throttle cables. Here is a picture of the main bellcrank/cable attachment device that I built....the orange device (in case the captions get mixed up). You can see the brackets that I welded on where the mixture (top hole with slot), and throttle (bottom hole with slot) control cables go. I built this up out of aluminum, and TIG-welded the assembly together...steel could also be used, of course. Because I wanted to retain the original throttle cable, and because I wanted to increase the travel of the throttle for better control of rpm, I made the arms long and short accordingly. I used the former "choke" cable to the original Bing carb for the mixture control cable...painting the knob red, of course. I sent this picture to Rotec, per their request, so as to maybe give Jabiru owners another way to make the connections, but apparently they haven't posted it yet. This required bending of the end of the throttle slide-actuating attachment, but it was an easy bend, and this mechanism works perfectly. And here is the primer button-actuating bellcrank. If I can do a little "massaging" of the firewall footwell area, I'll be able to lengthen the upper part of the bellcrank, and that will make for an easier pull on the cable. Right now the cable only moves about a half- inch, and requires a bit of a pull. Lynn Matteson Kitfox IV Speedster, taildragger Jabiru 2200, #2062, 760.3 hrs Sensenich 62"x46" Wood prop Electroair direct-fire ignition system Rotec TBI-40 injection Status: flying On Sep 6, 2009, at 9:30 PM, mhubel wrote: > > I am considering using the Rotac TBI 40 for a Jabiru 3300 in a > Zenith CH601XL. > > I wonder what your experience was with the primer button on the > regulator, did you connect it to a cable in the cabin? If so just > what sort of assembly was used? > > I was also wondering how the mixture cable was supported, I don't > see any method of supporting the mixture cable in the pictures on > the ROTAC web site. > > -------- > Mark Hubelbank > > ________________________________ Message 14 ____________________________________ Time: 08:26:31 PM PST US Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: ROP versus LOP...might be off-topic for some From: "mhubel" Thanks, If I go in this direction, now I know what to expect. I am a bit surprised that Rotec does not offer the option of some pre made assemblies to mount the mixture and primer cables. -------- Mark Hubelbank Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=261811#261811 ________________________________ Message 14 ____________________________________ Time: 11:55:42 AM PST US Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: RE: Kitfox-List Digest: 14 Msgs - 09/06/09 From: Patrick Reilly Ed, How about some pics? My Mod 3 weighs 100# more than yours with 38# on tailwheel. I start taxi testing next week. I got my 3 leaf taiwheel spring from Kitfox. I am using the 2 long springs only. It seemed mighty stiff with all 3 leaves. If I remember correctly yours is a Mod 2. Pat Reilly Mod 3 582 Rebuild Rockford, IL On Mon, Sep 7, 2009 at 1:19 PM, Ed Gray wrote: > > I need help with my tailwheel spring. I installed a Matco tailwheel (full > swivel) I bought from Kitfox. It has a single leaf spring with about a 30 > degree bend. While taxi testing on the mains and allowing the tail to drop > to the runway, the large bolt and castle nut through the swivel has > contacted the bottom tube of the rudder and slightly bent it. The spring > is > obviously too weak. Do I need a thicker spring or another leaf to double > it? As I recall the spring is part of the Matco tailwheel kit. The plane > weighs #525 and there is only 40 lbs. on the tailwheel. All advice > appreciated. Now taxi testing and waiting for the Faa registration to come > through. It wants to fly but I am holding her down! > > A pilot friend says any FAA licensed inspector can do the sign-off. I was > thinking only an FAA guy or EAA designee could do it > > Ed Gray, Dallas, KII , 582 do not archive > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com > [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kitfox-List > Digest Server > Sent: Monday, September 07, 2009 1:59 AM > To: Kitfox-List Digest List > Subject: Kitfox-List Digest: 14 Msgs - 09/06/09 > > * > > ================================================= > Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive > ================================================= > > Today's complete Kitfox-List Digest can also be found in either of the > two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest formatted > in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes > and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version > of the Kitfox-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text editor > such as Notepad or with a web browser. > > HTML Version: > > > http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=html&Chapter > 09-09-06&Archive=Kitfox > > Text Version: > > > http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=txt&Chapter > 2009-09-06&Archive=Kitfox > > > =============================================== > EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive > =============================================== > > > ---------------------------------------------------------- > Kitfox-List Digest Archive > --- > Total Messages Posted Sun 09/06/09: 14 > ---------------------------------------------------------- > > > Today's Message Index: > ---------------------- > > 1. 05:26 AM - Re: Mod 3 582 Rebuild (Catz631@aol.com) > 2. 05:47 AM - Re: CG (Tom Jones) > 3. 05:52 AM - bubbles under the skin (Catz631@aol.com) > 4. 06:31 AM - Re: bubbles under the skin (Lynn Matteson) > 5. 12:59 PM - Re: Wrecked a 2, 709, rudders, gear, two plane solution > (akflyer) > 6. 01:41 PM - (Lenzotti) > 7. 02:24 PM - Re: bubbles under the skin (Lynn Matteson) > 8. 04:36 PM - Re: bubbles under the skin (n61kf) > 9. 06:33 PM - Re: ROP versus LOP...might be off-topic for some > (mhubel) > 10. 07:44 PM - Re: bubbles under the skin (Lowell Fitt) > 11. 07:56 PM - Factory Fluy-in (Lowell Fitt) > 12. 08:07 PM - Re: bubbles under the skin (Lynn Matteson) > 13. 08:09 PM - Re: Re: ROP versus LOP...might be off-topic for some > (Lynn Matteson) > 14. 08:26 PM - Re: ROP versus LOP...might be off-topic for some > (mhubel) > > > ________________________________ Message 1 > _____________________________________ > > > Time: 05:26:11 AM PST US > From: Catz631@aol.com > Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Mod 3 582 Rebuild > > Pat, > Looks real nice !!! You will like that new gear. Of course you probably > don't remember the old one. > Dick Maddux > Milton,Fl > > ________________________________ Message 2 > _____________________________________ > > > Time: 05:47:18 AM PST US > Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: CG > From: "Tom Jones" > > > [quote="kirkhull(at)kc.rr.com"]Looking for the cg limits on a classic 4 > 1200. > does anyone have them handy? Also looking for info on the arm of the grove > gear > and if it changed from the factory gear? > > > > [b] > > > The CG limits for the Classic 4 are 10.2 to 16 inches. The grove gear sits > forward > of the factory gear. Some one with one of those will need to supply that > measurement. > > -------- > Tom Jones > Classic IV > 503 Rotax, 72 inch Two blade Warp > Ellensburg, WA > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=261715#261715 > > > ________________________________ Message 3 > _____________________________________ > > > Time: 05:52:51 AM PST US > From: Catz631@aol.com > Subject: Kitfox-List: bubbles under the skin > > You know, it's always something! Yesterday I noticed some very large and > small bubbles under the skin of my aircraft located over my right fuel > tank. > > Some of them were about 4 inches in diameter. These protruded about 1/2 > inch > > above the surface. Now my question is, "what caused that ?" The only thing > I > > can think of is fuel vapor passing thru the top of the tank but after 15 > years ??? Anyway I stuck a pin in each one to let the air out and the > bubbles > dropped flush with the rest of the skin. I quess at this point I will put a > damp rag over each "bubble" that I pricked and apply a hot iron in order to > shrink the fabric a little and possibly reactivate the glue. Any body ever > have this happen? It is only on the right tank and is spread pretty much > across the tank area. I was pretty much mentally preparing to yank these > tanks > > out sometime after the first of the year and install new tanks because of > the > gasohol that is mandated after the first of the year but I hate to do it > sooner. In fact I don't want to do it at all. Anyway I will keep a > jaundiced > > eye on it (as I have the Kream in my tank) and prick and iron as necessary > (sounds bad huh Lynn )? > > Dick Maddux > > Fox 4 > > Milton,Fl > > ________________________________ Message 4 > _____________________________________ > > > Time: 06:31:17 AM PST US > From: Lynn Matteson > Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: bubbles under the skin > > > Sounds bad, alright, but how 'bout injecting some of the proper > "glue" into those pricked holes? In the model planes we would just > prick the holes and run an iron over the area, activating the > adhesive. But in our "real" planes, maybe the person who applied the > covering over the tank area didn't apply enough Poly Brush over the > area. At least that's what I recall doing to mine. I know I applied > Poly Brush over the ribs and the false ribs (yes, I made up false > ribs to go over the tanks), but have to admit that I don't recall > whether I applied it over the whole tank or not...I'll have to look > at my pictures or re-read the directions which I followed to the > letter (those that made sense, anyway..: ) ). > > Lynn Matteson > Kitfox IV Speedster, taildragger > Jabiru 2200, #2062, 758.3 hrs > Sensenich 62"x46" Wood prop > Electroair direct-fire ignition system > Rotec TBI-40 injection > Status: flying > > > On Sep 6, 2009, at 8:50 AM, Catz631@aol.com wrote: > > > You know, it's always something! Yesterday I noticed some very > > large and small bubbles under the skin of my aircraft located over > > my right fuel tank. Some of them were about 4 inches in diameter. > > These protruded about 1/2 inch above the surface. Now my question > > is, "what caused that ?" The only thing I can think of is fuel > > vapor passing thru the top of the tank but after 15 years ??? > > Anyway I stuck a pin in each one to let the air out and the bubbles > > dropped flush with the rest of the skin. I quess at this point I > > will put a damp rag over each "bubble" that I pricked and apply a > > hot iron in order to shrink the fabric a little and possibly > > reactivate the glue. Any body ever have this happen? It is only on > > the right tank and is spread pretty much across the tank area. I > > was pretty much mentally preparing to yank these tanks out sometime > > after the first of the year and install new tanks because of the > > gasohol that is mandated after the first of the year but I hate to > > do it sooner. In fact I don't want to do it at all. Anyway I will > > keep a jaundiced eye on it (as I have the Kream in my tank) and > > prick and iron as necessary (sounds bad huh Lynn )? > > > > Dick Maddux > > > > Fox 4 > > > > Milton,Fl > > > > www.matronics.com/contribution _- > > ========================================================== > > > ________________________________ Message 5 > _____________________________________ > > > Time: 12:59:43 PM PST US > Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: Wrecked a 2, 709, rudders, gear, two plane > solution > From: "akflyer" > > > I have not flown the3 Aerocets so I cant tell ya on that one. > > -------- > DO NOT ARCHIVE > Leonard Perry aka SNAKE > Soldotna AK > Avid "C" / Mk IV > 582 IVO IFA > Full Lotus 1450 > #1 snake oil salesman since 1-22-2009 > > hander outer of humorless darwin awards > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=261766#261766 > > > ________________________________ Message 6 > _____________________________________ > > > Time: 01:41:38 PM PST US > From: Lenzotti > > > ________________________________ Message 7 > _____________________________________ > > > Time: 02:24:16 PM PST US > From: Lynn Matteson > Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: bubbles under the skin > > > Now that I look at the tank areas of my wings, I see that the fabric > IS bonded to the tanks, but only because the Poly Brush soaks through > the fabric, and where it touches the tanks, it is bonded to the > tanks. Where it is not in contact with the tank....where it lifts > away to tangent up and over each rib....it is of course not bonded > there. So I guess if I was not going to remove the tanks, I would > either inject some Poly Brush under the bubble, which might soften > the color coat, and therefore require some finish work, or MEK the > whole area down to the bare fabric, and then apply Poly Brush > liberally through the fabric, thereby bonding the fabric to the tank. > But before doing this, I'd make sure that the fabric was shrunk with > the iron. > Then do the normal spray coats of Poly Brush, Poly Spray, etc. At > least that's the way I THINK it should happen....I've been wrong > before though....once. : ) > > Lynn Matteson > Kitfox IV Speedster, taildragger > Jabiru 2200, #2062, 760.3 hrs > Sensenich 62"x46" Wood prop > Electroair direct-fire ignition system > Rotec TBI-40 injection > Status: flying > > > On Sep 6, 2009, at 9:27 AM, Lynn Matteson wrote: > > > > > Sounds bad, alright, but how 'bout injecting some of the proper > > "glue" into those pricked holes? In the model planes we would just > > prick the holes and run an iron over the area, activating the > > adhesive. But in our "real" planes, maybe the person who applied > > the covering over the tank area didn't apply enough Poly Brush over > > the area. At least that's what I recall doing to mine. I know I > > applied Poly Brush over the ribs and the false ribs (yes, I made up > > false ribs to go over the tanks), but have to admit that I don't > > recall whether I applied it over the whole tank or not...I'll have > > to look at my pictures or re-read the directions which I followed > > to the letter (those that made sense, anyway..: ) ). > > > > Lynn Matteson > > Kitfox IV Speedster, taildragger > > Jabiru 2200, #2062, 758.3 hrs > > Sensenich 62"x46" Wood prop > > Electroair direct-fire ignition system > > Rotec TBI-40 injection > > Status: flying > > > > > > On Sep 6, 2009, at 8:50 AM, Catz631@aol.com wrote: > > > >> You know, it's always something! Yesterday I noticed some very > >> large and small bubbles under the skin of my aircraft located over > >> my right fuel tank. Some of them were about 4 inches in diameter. > >> These protruded about 1/2 inch above the surface. Now my question > >> is, "what caused that ?" The only thing I can think of is fuel > >> vapor passing thru the top of the tank but after 15 years ??? > >> Anyway I stuck a pin in each one to let the air out and the > >> bubbles dropped flush with the rest of the skin. I quess at this > >> point I will put a damp rag over each "bubble" that I pricked and > >> apply a hot iron in order to shrink the fabric a little and > >> possibly reactivate the glue. Any body ever have this happen? It > >> is only on the right tank and is spread pretty much across the > >> tank area. I was pretty much mentally preparing to yank these > >> tanks out sometime after the first of the year and install new > >> tanks because of the gasohol that is mandated after the first of > >> the year but I hate to do it sooner. In fact I don't want to do it > >> at all. Anyway I will keep a jaundiced eye on it (as I have the > >> Kream in my tank) and prick and iron as necessary (sounds bad huh > >> Lynn )? > >> > >> Dick Maddux > >> > >> Fox 4 > >> > >> Milton,Fl > >> > >> www.matronics.com/contribution _- > >> ========================================================== > > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 8 > _____________________________________ > > > Time: 04:36:09 PM PST US > Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: bubbles under the skin > From: "n61kf" > > > Dick, > I have the same thing going on the surface over my tanks. I have not > attempted > a cure yet, but was leaning toward injecting some thinned polytac under the > bubbles. > I had this same thing happen with poly-fiber over fiberglass leading edges > on my > Skybolt, so I'm not so sure that fuel has anything to do with it. > > -------- > Keith Schneider > Red Stewart Airfield > Waynesville Ohio > KF IV 912ul > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=261784#261784 > > > ________________________________ Message 9 > _____________________________________ > > > Time: 06:33:23 PM PST US > Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: ROP versus LOP...might be off-topic for some > From: "mhubel" > > > I am considering using the Rotac TBI 40 for a Jabiru 3300 in a Zenith > CH601XL. > > > I wonder what your experience was with the primer button on the regulator, > did > you connect it to a cable in the cabin? If so just what sort of assembly > was > used? > > I was also wondering how the mixture cable was supported, I don't see any > method > of supporting the mixture cable in the pictures on the ROTAC web site. > > -------- > Mark Hubelbank > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=261793#261793 > > > ________________________________ Message 10 > ____________________________________ > > > Time: 07:44:51 PM PST US > From: "Lowell Fitt" > Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: bubbles under the skin > > > Lynn, > > Got a question. Are the bubbles under the fabric, or between the fabric > and > > finish coat? > > I had very small bubbles - to 1/4", most much smaller between the fabric > and finish coat, and they were all filled with fuel. I resloshed the tank, > and lived with the bubbles. I was able to reduce the larger ones by > shaving > > with a razor blade and touching up the aerothane with a touch up brush. > > If they are larger and under the fabric, maybe one suggestion. I found > once > > that using one of the Polyfiber adhesives - solvent based, caused an ugly > wrinkling of the paint layer - sort of like crinkle paint. I then tried > injecting unthickened structural adhesive and moving it around under the > bad > > area with a roller. That worked fine and no change to the surface. > > Lowell > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: > Sent: Sunday, September 06, 2009 5:50 AM > Subject: Kitfox-List: bubbles under the skin > > > > You know, it's always something! Yesterday I noticed some very large and > > small bubbles under the skin of my aircraft located over my right fuel > > tank. > > Some of them were about 4 inches in diameter. These protruded about 1/2 > > inch > > above the surface. Now my question is, "what caused that ?" The only > thing > > > I > > can think of is fuel vapor passing thru the top of the tank but after 15 > > years ??? Anyway I stuck a pin in each one to let the air out and the > > bubbles > > dropped flush with the rest of the skin. I quess at this point I will put > > a > > damp rag over each "bubble" that I pricked and apply a hot iron in order > > to > > shrink the fabric a little and possibly reactivate the glue. Any body > ever > > have this happen? It is only on the right tank and is spread pretty much > > across the tank area. I was pretty much mentally preparing to yank these > > tanks > > out sometime after the first of the year and install new tanks because of > > the > > gasohol that is mandated after the first of the year but I hate to do it > > sooner. In fact I don't want to do it at all. Anyway I will keep a > > jaundiced > > eye on it (as I have the Kream in my tank) and prick and iron as > necessary > > (sounds bad huh Lynn )? > > > > Dick Maddux > > > > Fox 4 > > > > Milton,Fl > > > > > ________________________________ Message 11 > ____________________________________ > > > Time: 07:56:15 PM PST US > From: "Lowell Fitt" > Subject: Kitfox-List: Factory Fluy-in > > > Like Mike Gibbs, I would also like to comment on the factory fly-in. This > is the first one I have been to since the beginning of the John and Debra > McBean era. I liked the format very much. Like Mike mentioned, there was > a > > lot of engine noises, as there was never a moment that someone wasn't going > up or coming back. There were several spontaneous fly-outs, low passes, > formation flights, lots of rides given to us builders and others, and a lot > of time to just sit and get acqainted and re-acquainted. The food was good > the weather was perfect and from what I heard, everyone was glad they had > come. > > I hope to be flying by next year and am looking forward to being there > again. > > Lowell > > > ________________________________ Message 12 > ____________________________________ > > > Time: 08:07:46 PM PST US > From: Lynn Matteson > Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: bubbles under the skin > > > Lowell- > I assume you meant to address this to Dick...he's the one with the > bubbles. : ) > > > Lynn Matteson > Kitfox IV Speedster, taildragger > Jabiru 2200, #2062, 760.3 hrs > Sensenich 62"x46" Wood prop > Electroair direct-fire ignition system > Rotec TBI-40 injection > Status: flying > do not archive > > > On Sep 6, 2009, at 10:31 PM, Lowell Fitt wrote: > > > > > > > Lynn, > > > > Got a question. Are the bubbles under the fabric, or between the > > fabric and finish coat? > > > > I had very small bubbles - to 1/4", most much smaller between the > > fabric and finish coat, and they were all filled with fuel. I > > resloshed the tank, and lived with the bubbles. I was able to > > reduce the larger ones by shaving with a razor blade and touching > > up the aerothane with a touch up brush. > > > > If they are larger and under the fabric, maybe one suggestion. I > > found once that using one of the Polyfiber adhesives - solvent > > based, caused an ugly wrinkling of the paint layer - sort of like > > crinkle paint. I then tried injecting unthickened structural > > adhesive and moving it around under the bad area with a roller. > > That worked fine and no change to the surface. > > > > Lowell > > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- From: > > To: > > Sent: Sunday, September 06, 2009 5:50 AM > > Subject: Kitfox-List: bubbles under the skin > > > > > >> You know, it's always something! Yesterday I noticed some very > >> large and > >> small bubbles under the skin of my aircraft located over my right > >> fuel tank. > >> Some of them were about 4 inches in diameter. These protruded > >> about 1/2 inch > >> above the surface. Now my question is, "what caused that ?" The > >> only thing I > >> can think of is fuel vapor passing thru the top of the tank but > >> after 15 > >> years ??? Anyway I stuck a pin in each one to let the air out and > >> the bubbles > >> dropped flush with the rest of the skin. I quess at this point I > >> will put a > >> damp rag over each "bubble" that I pricked and apply a hot iron in > >> order to > >> shrink the fabric a little and possibly reactivate the glue. Any > >> body ever > >> have this happen? It is only on the right tank and is spread > >> pretty much > >> across the tank area. I was pretty much mentally preparing to yank > >> these tanks > >> out sometime after the first of the year and install new tanks > >> because of the > >> gasohol that is mandated after the first of the year but I hate to > >> do it > >> sooner. In fact I don't want to do it at all. Anyway I will keep a > >> jaundiced > >> eye on it (as I have the Kream in my tank) and prick and iron as > >> necessary > >> (sounds bad huh Lynn )? > >> > >> Dick Maddux > >> > >> Fox 4 > >> > >> Milton,Fl > > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 13 > ____________________________________ > > > Time: 08:09:34 PM PST US > From: Lynn Matteson > Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Re: ROP versus LOP...might be off-topic for some > > After about three weeks of using the TBI without hooking up a control > cable to the primer button, I finally did it and it works great. Here > are some pictures of how I made a small bellcrank to actuate my > button, and of the bellcrank that I built that transferred throttle > cable motion from one side of the TBI to the other side and increase > the throw of the throttle to provide better control/easier > operation. The orange bellcrank also shows the bracket that allows > for attachment of the throttle cable and for the mixture control > cable. Regarding the primer control, I was kinda cramped for room in > the engine compartment, so the mechanical "advantage" of the leverage > is a non-advantage. The picture doesn't show the cable attachment, > but it is too close for proper operation, meaning that it takes a lot > of puling power on the cable to get the button depressed, but it does > work. I'm going to rework it to provide a better mechanical > advantage. And yes, the cable goes into the cabin right alongside the > mixture control and throttle cables. > > Here is a picture of the main bellcrank/cable attachment device > that I built....the orange device (in case the captions get mixed > up). You can see the brackets that I welded on where the mixture (top > hole with slot), and throttle (bottom hole with slot) control cables > go. I built this up out of aluminum, and TIG-welded the assembly > together...steel could also be used, of course. Because I wanted to > retain the original throttle cable, and because I wanted to increase > the travel of the throttle for better control of rpm, I made the arms > long and short accordingly. I used the former "choke" cable to the > original Bing carb for the mixture control cable...painting the knob > red, of course. > > > I sent this picture to Rotec, per their request, so as to maybe give > Jabiru owners another way to make the connections, but apparently > they haven't posted it yet. This required bending of the end of the > throttle slide-actuating attachment, but it was an easy bend, and > this mechanism works perfectly. > > > And here is the primer button-actuating bellcrank. If I can do a > little "massaging" of the firewall footwell area, I'll be able to > lengthen the upper part of the bellcrank, and that will make for an > easier pull on the cable. Right now the cable only moves about a half- > inch, and requires a bit of a pull. > > > Lynn Matteson > Kitfox IV Speedster, taildragger > Jabiru 2200, #2062, 760.3 hrs > Sensenich 62"x46" Wood prop > Electroair direct-fire ignition system > Rotec TBI-40 injection > Status: flying > > > On Sep 6, 2009, at 9:30 PM, mhubel wrote: > > > > > I am considering using the Rotac TBI 40 for a Jabiru 3300 in a > > Zenith CH601XL. > > > > I wonder what your experience was with the primer button on the > > regulator, did you connect it to a cable in the cabin? If so just > > what sort of assembly was used? > > > > I was also wondering how the mixture cable was supported, I don't > > see any method of supporting the mixture cable in the pictures on > > the ROTAC web site. > > > > -------- > > Mark Hubelbank > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 14 > ____________________________________ > > > Time: 08:26:31 PM PST US > Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: ROP versus LOP...might be off-topic for some > From: "mhubel" > > > Thanks, If I go in this direction, now I know what to expect. I am a bit > surprised > that Rotec does not offer the option of some pre made assemblies to mount > the mixture and primer cables. > > -------- > Mark Hubelbank > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=261811#261811 > > ________________________________ Message 15 ____________________________________ Time: 01:01:14 PM PST US From: Lynn Matteson Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: RE: Kitfox-List Digest: 14 Msgs - 09/06/09 Ed- I had a single-with-helper spring (two leaves total) as original equipment on my model and it broke, allowing the tail to contact the ground. I got a three-leaf replacement form John and Debra. This arrangement has a hole for the tailwheel-bracket mounting bolt that goes through both of the long leaves. Even if one leaf breaks, you will still have one leaf holding the tail up. The chances of both leaves breaking at the same time is probably astronomical. With the original set-up, only the one long leaf is bolted to the tailwheel bracket, and when that leaf breaks, your tail is on the ground. Lynn Matteson Kitfox IV Speedster, taildragger Jabiru 2200, #2062, 760.3 hrs Sensenich 62"x46" Wood prop Electroair direct-fire ignition system Rotec TBI-40 injection Status: flying On Sep 7, 2009, at 2:19 PM, Ed Gray wrote: > > I need help with my tailwheel spring. I installed a Matco > tailwheel (full > swivel) I bought from Kitfox. It has a single leaf spring with > about a 30 > degree bend. While taxi testing on the mains and allowing the tail > to drop > to the runway, the large bolt and castle nut through the swivel has > contacted the bottom tube of the rudder and slightly bent it. The > spring is > obviously too weak. Do I need a thicker spring or another leaf to > double > it? As I recall the spring is part of the Matco tailwheel kit. > The plane > weighs #525 and there is only 40 lbs. on the tailwheel. All advice > appreciated. Now taxi testing and waiting for the Faa registration > to come > through. It wants to fly but I am holding her down! > > A pilot friend says any FAA licensed inspector can do the sign- > off. I was > thinking only an FAA guy or EAA designee could do it > > Ed Gray, Dallas, KII , 582 > hank you for your generous support! > > ________________________________ Message 16 ____________________________________ Time: 01:08:04 PM PST US Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: Kitfox-List Digest: 14 Msgs - 09/06/09 From: "akflyer" edgraydallas wrote: > I need help with my tailwheel spring. I installed a Matco tailwheel (full > swivel) I bought from Kitfox. It has a single leaf spring with about a 30 > degree bend. While taxi testing on the mains and allowing the tail to drop > to the runway, the large bolt and castle nut through the swivel has > contacted the bottom tube of the rudder and slightly bent it. The spring is > obviously too weak. Do I need a thicker spring or another leaf to double > it? As I recall the spring is part of the Matco tailwheel kit. The plane > weighs #525 and there is only 40 lbs. on the tailwheel. All advice > appreciated. Now taxi testing and waiting for the Faa registration to come > through. It wants to fly but I am holding her down! > > A pilot friend says any FAA licensed inspector can do the sign-off. I was > thinking only an FAA guy or EAA designee could do it > > Ed Gray, Dallas, KII , 582 do not archive > > -- The tail drop or slam? I have flown a buddies Model A with single leaf spring and have not banged the rudder yet, but can see where it could easily be done! I have 51# on my TW and am using the 2 leaf spring from Avid. I bent it this winter hitting ice covered snowmachine tracks but not enough to contact the rudder! -------- DO NOT ARCHIVE Leonard Perry aka SNAKE Soldotna AK Avid "C" / Mk IV 582 IVO IFA Full Lotus 1450 #1 snake oil salesman since 1-22-2009 hander outer of humorless darwin awards Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=261915#261915 ________________________________ Message 17 ____________________________________ Time: 03:31:30 PM PST US Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: Wrecked a 2, 709, rudders, gear, two plane solution From: "dave" Great tips- I tried em all the last few days with no luck with 2 on board. dump off passenger and she pops off nicely . It almost seems like not enough forward stick is there. I am thinking of moving the floats back about 2 inches to try. I was out in 10 to 12 knots winds with 2 on board and no way waves would crash over tops. This was a 582 Kitfox and likely if the plane had a 912 or heavier engine then it would have been ok with the C of G 4 inches ahead of the Step . I think it needs more but fear the water rush over top. -------- Rotax Dealer, Ontario Canada http://www.cfisher.com/ Awesome *New Forum * http://rotaxaircraft.com/forum/ Realtime Kitfox movies to separate the internet chatter from the truth http://www.youtube.com/profile_videos?user=kitfoxflyer Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=261931#261931 ________________________________ Message 18 ____________________________________ Time: 03:44:54 PM PST US From: "eric" Subject: Kitfox-List: Kitfox wheel pants there is a set of Kitfox wheel pants on eBay right now ________________________________ Message 19 ____________________________________ Time: 04:18:53 PM PST US Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Re: Kitfox-List Digest: 14 Msgs - 09/06/09 From: bjones@dmv.com Consider shim between spring and where rear bolts attach spring to fuselage My early model IV rudder extends down even with bottom of fuselage so spring could hit bottom of rudder without shim Later model IV rudders do not extend down as far and provide more clearance BJ N154K Do not archive ------Original Message------ From: akflyer Sender: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com ReplyTo: kitfox-list@matronics.com Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: Kitfox-List Digest: 14 Msgs - 09/06/09 Sent: Sep 7, 2009 4:05 PM edgraydallas wrote: > I need help with my tailwheel spring. I installed a Matco tailwheel (full > swivel) I bought from Kitfox. It has a single leaf spring with about a 30 > degree bend. While taxi testing on the mains and allowing the tail to drop > to the runway, the large bolt and castle nut through the swivel has > contacted the bottom tube of the rudder and slightly bent it. The spring is > obviously too weak. Do I need a thicker spring or another leaf to double > it? As I recall the spring is part of the Matco tailwheel kit. The plane > weighs #525 and there is only 40 lbs. on the tailwheel. All advice > appreciated. Now taxi testing and waiting for the Faa registration to come > through. It wants to fly but I am holding her down! > > A pilot friend says any FAA licensed inspector can do the sign-off. I was > thinking only an FAA guy or EAA designee could do it > > Ed Gray, Dallas, KII , 582 do not archive > > -- The tail drop or slam? I have flown a buddies Model A with single leaf spring and have not banged the rudder yet, but can see where it could easily be done! I have 51# on my TW and am using the 2 leaf spring from Avid. I bent it this winter hitting ice covered snowmachine tracks but not enough to contact the rudder! -------- DO NOT ARCHIVE Leonard Perry aka SNAKE Soldotna AK Avid "C" / Mk IV 582 IVO IFA Full Lotus 1450 #1 snake oil salesman since 1-22-2009 hander outer of humorless darwin awards Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=261915#261915 Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry ________________________________ Message 20 ____________________________________ Time: 05:23:32 PM PST US Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: Wrecked a 2, 709, rudders, gear, two plane solution From: "akflyer" I never felt like it was going to go over, but it did ship water over the noses a couple times when I moved the plane forward on them if I came off the power real quick. Move them back 2 " and try it again, just be aware of not touching down and just chopping the power all the way off instantly. Keep some power on and let her settle in with the stick in your lap! -------- DO NOT ARCHIVE Leonard Perry aka SNAKE Soldotna AK Avid "C" / Mk IV 582 IVO IFA Full Lotus 1450 #1 snake oil salesman since 1-22-2009 hander outer of humorless darwin awards Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=261951#261951 ________________________________ Message 21 ____________________________________ Time: 05:24:52 PM PST US Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: RE: Kitfox-List Digest: 14 Msgs - 09/06/09 From: Patrick Reilly Lynn, I eliminated the small top leaf. The 3 leafs seemed like it just was too much spring. I haven't flown it yet. I start taxi tests this week. What do you think about using only the 2 full length leaves. Pat Reilly Mod 3 582 Rebuild Rockford, IL On Mon, Sep 7, 2009 at 2:57 PM, Lynn Matteson wrote: > > > Ed- > > I had a single-with-helper spring (two leaves total) as original equipment > on my model and it broke, allowing the tail to contact the ground. I got a > three-leaf replacement form John and Debra. This arrangement has a hole for > the tailwheel-bracket mounting bolt that goes through both of the long > leaves. Even if one leaf breaks, you will still have one leaf holding the > tail up. The chances of both leaves breaking at the same time is probably > astronomical. With the original set-up, only the one long leaf is bolted to > the tailwheel bracket, and when that leaf breaks, your tail is on the > ground. > > Lynn Matteson > Kitfox IV Speedster, taildragger > Jabiru 2200, #2062, 760.3 hrs > Sensenich 62"x46" Wood prop > Electroair direct-fire ignition system > Rotec TBI-40 injection > Status: flying > > > On Sep 7, 2009, at 2:19 PM, Ed Gray wrote: > >> >> I need help with my tailwheel spring. I installed a Matco tailwheel (full >> swivel) I bought from Kitfox. It has a single leaf spring with about a 30 >> degree bend. While taxi testing on the mains and allowing the tail to >> drop >> to the runway, the large bolt and castle nut through the swivel has >> contacted the bottom tube of the rudder and slightly bent it. The spring >> is >> obviously too weak. Do I need a thicker spring or another leaf to double >> it? As I recall the spring is part of the Matco tailwheel kit. The plane >> weighs #525 and there is only 40 lbs. on the tailwheel. All advice >> appreciated. Now taxi testing and waiting for the Faa registration to >> come >> through. It wants to fly but I am holding her down! >> >> A pilot friend says any FAA licensed inspector can do the sign-off. I was >> thinking only an FAA guy or EAA designee could do it >> >> Ed Gray, Dallas, KII , 582 >> hank you for your generous support! >> >> >> >> > > ________________________________ Message 22 ____________________________________ Time: 07:19:09 PM PST US Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: Wrecked a 2, 709, rudders, gear, two plane solution From: "dave" There is a Beaver UL at my place that I fly with at times. He has 1260 s on it and he gets water flowing a bit over top pf his. Would never totally submerge but phreaky to some. My Aerocets have the nose submerged lots while taxiing. I got hit by a wake by 2 cabin cruisers in a narrow river yesterday , the wake was about 3 feet high and i Hit them nearly 90 degrees. My floats were under the wake by at least 18 inches for a second. My Warp prop at idle made some weird noises while it spun partially submerged. The Warp survived, I am not sure if other props would have . -------- Rotax Dealer, Ontario Canada http://www.cfisher.com/ Awesome *New Forum * http://rotaxaircraft.com/forum/ Realtime Kitfox movies to separate the internet chatter from the truth http://www.youtube.com/profile_videos?user=kitfoxflyer Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=261984#261984 ________________________________ Message 23 ____________________________________ Time: 11:08:23 PM PST US Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: Wrecked a 2, 709, rudders, gear, two plane solution From: "wingman" I have 1260's and don't recognize any of these descriptions. i use full throttle and at full load it takes 3 seconds of nose up before i push the stick forward and get on the step. after that i neutralize the stick and wait for 10 seconds and then i am airborne at around 40 mph i love the floats and would never put anything bigger on W -------- Kitfox IV 1200 Rotax 912 ULS on full lotus floats Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=262004#262004 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Other Matronics Email List Services ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Post A New Message kitfox-list@matronics.com UN/SUBSCRIBE http://www.matronics.com/subscription List FAQ http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/Kitfox-List.htm Web Forum Interface To Lists http://forums.matronics.com Matronics List Wiki http://wiki.matronics.com Full Archive Search Engine http://www.matronics.com/search 7-Day List Browse http://www.matronics.com/browse/kitfox-list Browse Digests http://www.matronics.com/digest/kitfox-list Browse Other Lists http://www.matronics.com/browse Live Online Chat! http://www.matronics.com/chat Archive Downloading http://www.matronics.com/archives Photo Share http://www.matronics.com/photoshare Other Email Lists http://www.matronics.com/emaillists Contributions http://www.matronics.com/contribution ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.