Today's Message Index:
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1. 07:17 AM - Re: Grove Gear Model II (Mark Napier (napierm))
2. 08:38 PM - Re: Re: Grove Gear Model II (Patrick Reilly)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Grove Gear Model II |
Bryan,
Another method is to "peel" the fabric. If the bottom fabric was put on
1st and then the side you are in luck. You can peel and then re-glue
the fabric and it will look like it had never been touched. I've done a
couple of repairs this way and it does work.
If you want to do this then do not cut the fabric.
Take a thin but not too sharp knife and work the reinforcement tape
loose from the bottom side. A piece of 0.25 aluminum with smoothed
edges can make a pretty good tool for this. In the area you are talking
about you will have to start close to the firewall and work back close
to the main gear mount. The goal is to take the tape loose from the
bottom fabric but don't break it loose from the side fabric and break
the paint on the side.
Once the tape is peeled back you can peel the "side" fabric from the
bottom. The bottom fabric can then be peeled loose from the bottom
tube. This is time consuming but better than having to paint a large
area. You can take another piece of thin aluminum and bend it over to
make a wide "hook" to make it easier to get at the edge of the fabric
wrapped around the tube.
Keep the fabric well back from the welding area and don't let it bend
over too far as the paint can crack.
When you put it all back do it all in reverse. Clean the tubes 1st with
MEK. Try to keep it off the fabric. Reattach the fabric with poly-tak.
Pull it as tight as you can. There will still be some loose spots and
these can be tightened with heat later. Use poly-brush to reattach the
tape.
If done carefully the only visible sign you have done anything is the
break in the paint at the edge of the pinked tape on the bottom of the
fuselage. If you are really careful the break will follow the zig-zag
edge of the tape. The repair is really hard to see.
I know you will have to add some reinforcement tape to account for the
new bracket you are adding, but you may be able to put those tapes
"under" your existing fabric to hide the modification as much as
possible. I haven't been able to get new paint to blend with old very
attractively. Try to preserve the side tape and your touchups will be
under the fuselage.
Hope this helps,
Mark Napier
Time: 08:44:20 AM PST US
Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: Grove Gear Model II
From: "Tom Jones" <nahsikhs@elltel.net>
> I am planning on installing grove gear on my model II. I will need to
add the
float mounting bracket and was looking for any help on how to weld this
with
minimal fabric damage. Any help would be appreciated.
>
Bryan, if the finish is Poly tone it is fairly easy to cut out a section
of fabric
and replace with new. If you have worked with fabric before it will be
easy,
if you haven't, someone helping that has will be a must and use the
repair
instructions in the poly fiber manual.
I would use a straight edge and razor blade to cut out a section
spanning from
the leading edge of the stock front gear mount to about 8 inches forward
of the
new mount to be welded in. From the bottom of the door frame to about 8
inches
in on the belly.
To repair the fabric, poly tack one new piece to the bottom door frame
and to the
old fabric down and under the belly. No poly tack or wraping around the
bottom
longeron tube. When you shrink the new piece it will pull the old
fabric
tight and back into place.
--------
Tom Jones
Classic IV
503 Rotax, 72 inch Two blade Warp
Ellensburg, WA
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=265110#265110
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Grove Gear Model II |
Bryan, You can also replace the fabric with an aluminum belly pan. I did on
my model 3 and figure it added around 3 #. Maybe you don't want the added
weight. But, it's just another option.
Pat Reilly
Mod 3 Rebuild
Rockford, IL
On Sun, Sep 27, 2009 at 9:10 AM, Mark Napier (napierm) <napierm@cisco.com>wrote:
> napierm@cisco.com>
>
> Bryan,
>
> Another method is to "peel" the fabric. If the bottom fabric was put on
> 1st and then the side you are in luck. You can peel and then re-glue
> the fabric and it will look like it had never been touched. I've done a
> couple of repairs this way and it does work.
>
> If you want to do this then do not cut the fabric.
>
> Take a thin but not too sharp knife and work the reinforcement tape
> loose from the bottom side. A piece of 0.25 aluminum with smoothed
> edges can make a pretty good tool for this. In the area you are talking
> about you will have to start close to the firewall and work back close
> to the main gear mount. The goal is to take the tape loose from the
> bottom fabric but don't break it loose from the side fabric and break
> the paint on the side.
>
> Once the tape is peeled back you can peel the "side" fabric from the
> bottom. The bottom fabric can then be peeled loose from the bottom
> tube. This is time consuming but better than having to paint a large
> area. You can take another piece of thin aluminum and bend it over to
> make a wide "hook" to make it easier to get at the edge of the fabric
> wrapped around the tube.
>
> Keep the fabric well back from the welding area and don't let it bend
> over too far as the paint can crack.
>
> When you put it all back do it all in reverse. Clean the tubes 1st with
> MEK. Try to keep it off the fabric. Reattach the fabric with poly-tak.
> Pull it as tight as you can. There will still be some loose spots and
> these can be tightened with heat later. Use poly-brush to reattach the
> tape.
>
> If done carefully the only visible sign you have done anything is the
> break in the paint at the edge of the pinked tape on the bottom of the
> fuselage. If you are really careful the break will follow the zig-zag
> edge of the tape. The repair is really hard to see.
>
> I know you will have to add some reinforcement tape to account for the
> new bracket you are adding, but you may be able to put those tapes
> "under" your existing fabric to hide the modification as much as
> possible. I haven't been able to get new paint to blend with old very
> attractively. Try to preserve the side tape and your touchups will be
> under the fuselage.
>
> Hope this helps,
>
> Mark Napier
>
>
> Time: 08:44:20 AM PST US
> Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: Grove Gear Model II
> From: "Tom Jones" <nahsikhs@elltel.net>
>
>
> > I am planning on installing grove gear on my model II. I will need to
> add the
> float mounting bracket and was looking for any help on how to weld this
> with
> minimal fabric damage. Any help would be appreciated.
> >
>
>
> Bryan, if the finish is Poly tone it is fairly easy to cut out a section
> of fabric
> and replace with new. If you have worked with fabric before it will be
> easy,
> if you haven't, someone helping that has will be a must and use the
> repair
> instructions in the poly fiber manual.
>
> I would use a straight edge and razor blade to cut out a section
> spanning from
> the leading edge of the stock front gear mount to about 8 inches forward
> of the
> new mount to be welded in. From the bottom of the door frame to about 8
> inches
> in on the belly.
>
> To repair the fabric, poly tack one new piece to the bottom door frame
> and to the
> old fabric down and under the belly. No poly tack or wraping around the
> bottom
> longeron tube. When you shrink the new piece it will pull the old
> fabric
> tight and back into place.
>
> --------
> Tom Jones
> Classic IV
> 503 Rotax, 72 inch Two blade Warp
> Ellensburg, WA
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=265110#265110
>
>
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