Kitfox-List Digest Archive

Mon 09/28/09


Total Messages Posted: 5



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 10:24 AM - innertube (kerrjohna@comcast.net)
     2. 12:10 PM - Re: Hi everyone, I'm back with a -4 with NSI questions.. (Hfirm)
     3. 04:08 PM - Re: innertube (Tom Jones)
     4. 04:52 PM - Re: Re: Grove Gear Model II (bughntr@comcast.net)
     5. 08:14 PM - Re: Re: Grove Gear Model II (Patrick Reilly)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 10:24:30 AM PST US
    From: kerrjohna@comcast.net
    Subject: innertube
    spun the stem off the tube of the king fox tire--15# psi.=C2- where are r eplacement tubes available? John


    Message 2


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    Time: 12:10:49 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Hi everyone, I'm back with a -4 with NSI questions..
    From: "Hfirm" <zarpheous21@gmail.com>
    Nice Deke, It will be interesting too know how those work out. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=265374#265374


    Message 3


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    Time: 04:08:55 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: innertube
    From: "Tom Jones" <nahsikhs@elltel.net>
    > spun the stem off the tube of the king fox tire--15# psi. where are replacement tubes available? You should be able to find them at at tire store that carries ATV tires. -------- Tom Jones Classic IV 503 Rotax, 72 inch Two blade Warp Ellensburg, WA Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=265416#265416


    Message 4


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    Time: 04:52:49 PM PST US
    From: bughntr@comcast.net
    Subject: Re: Grove Gear Model II
    Pat; Interesting idea. Do you have a photo that will show me what you have done? =C2- Thanks..Bryan ----- Original Message ----- From: "Patrick Reilly" <patreilly43@gmail.com> Sent: Sunday, September 27, 2009 8:30:11 PM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Re: Grove Gear Model II Bryan, You can also replace the fabric with an aluminum belly pan. I did on my model 3 and figure it added around 3 #. Maybe you don't want the added weight. But, it's just another option. Pat Reilly Mod 3 Rebuild Rockford, IL On Sun, Sep 27, 2009 at 9:10 AM, Mark Napier (napierm) < napierm@cisco.com > wrote: com > Bryan, Another method is to "peel" the fabric. =C2-If the bottom fabric was put on 1st and then the side you are in luck. =C2-You can peel and then re-glue the fabric and it will look like it had never been touched. =C2-I've done a couple of repairs this way and it does work. If you want to do this then do not cut the fabric. Take a thin but not too sharp knife and work the reinforcement tape loose from the bottom side. =C2-A piece of 0.25 aluminum with smoothed edges can make a pretty good tool for this. =C2-In the area you are talki ng about you will have to start close to the firewall and work back close to the main gear mount. =C2-The goal is to take the tape loose from the bottom fabric but don't break it loose from the side fabric and break the paint on the side. Once the tape is peeled back you can peel the "side" fabric from the bottom. =C2-The bottom fabric can then be peeled loose from the bottom tube. =C2-This is time consuming but better than having to paint a large area. =C2-You can take another piece of thin aluminum and bend it over to make a wide "hook" to make it easier to get at the edge of the fabric wrapped around the tube. Keep the fabric well back from the welding area and don't let it bend over too far as the paint can crack. When you put it all back do it all in reverse. =C2-Clean the tubes 1st wi th MEK. =C2-Try to keep it off the fabric. =C2-Reattach the fabric with po ly-tak. Pull it as tight as you can. =C2-There will still be some loose spots and these can be tightened with heat later. =C2-Use poly-brush to reattach th e tape. If done carefully the only visible sign you have done anything is the break in the paint at the edge of the pinked tape on the bottom of the fuselage. =C2-If you are really careful the break will follow the zig-zag edge of the tape. =C2-The repair is really hard to see. I know you will have to add some reinforcement tape to account for the new bracket you are adding, but you may be able to put those tapes "under" your existing fabric to hide the modification as much as possible. =C2-I haven't been able to get new paint to blend with old very attractively. =C2-Try to preserve the side tape and your touchups will be under the fuselage. Hope this helps, Mark Napier Time: 08:44:20 AM PST US Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: Grove Gear Model II From: "Tom Jones" < nahsikhs@elltel.net > > I am planning on installing grove gear on my model II. I will need to add the float mounting bracket and was looking for any help on how to weld this with minimal fabric damage. Any help would be appreciated. > Bryan, if the finish is Poly tone it is fairly easy to cut out a section of fabric and replace with new. =C2-If you have worked with fabric before it will b e easy, if you haven't, someone helping =C2-that has will be a must and use the repair instructions in the poly fiber manual. I would use a straight edge and razor blade to cut out a section spanning from the leading edge of the stock front gear mount to about 8 inches forward of the new mount to be welded in. =C2-From the bottom of the door frame to about 8 inches in on the belly. To repair the fabric, poly tack one new piece to the bottom door frame and to the old fabric down and under the belly. =C2-No poly tack or wraping around t he bottom longeron tube. =C2-When you shrink the new piece it will pull the old fabric tight and back into place. -------- Tom Jones Classic IV 503 Rotax, 72 inch Two blade Warp Ellensburg, WA Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=265110#265110 Subscription, www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List" target="_blank">http://www.matro nics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List ronics.com/" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com Matt Dralle, List Admin. ===== ==


    Message 5


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    Time: 08:14:09 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Grove Gear Model II
    From: Patrick Reilly <patreilly43@gmail.com>
    Bryan, I don't have any photos of the aluminum belly pan. It was easy for me. I did it in the fusalage covering process. I had the fusalage on a rotisserie so I had the bottom up, cut the sheet to dimenson, laid it on and marked for any cut outs around the brackets. I can't remember the thickness of the sheet I used. I made it in 2 pieces, one fore and one aft. Front one overlapping the rear piece. I folded the edges over to stiffen. I used rivet nuts for 10-24 screws that I attached to the tubing with wraps of adhesive anti chafe tape. Maybe 12 or so per each piece. I know at the time I thought this will never be attached well enough but low and behold something worked better than anticipated for a change. Sorry, I can't be more descripitive, or have pictures for you. A number of the KFer's poopooed me at the time. But, I have already had the pan off to install Lowell Fitt's bush gear. Had the pan off in 10 minutes and back on in 10 minutes. No worries about recovering. I'd do it again if I was building or rebuilding another KF. Pat Reilly Mod 3 582 Rebuild Rockford, IL On Mon, Sep 28, 2009 at 6:50 PM, <bughntr@comcast.net> wrote: > Pat; > > Interesting idea. Do you have a photo that will show me what you have > done? Thanks..Bryan > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Patrick Reilly" <patreilly43@gmail.com> > To: kitfox-list@matronics.com > Sent: Sunday, September 27, 2009 8:30:11 PM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific > Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Re: Grove Gear Model II > > Bryan, You can also replace the fabric with an aluminum belly pan. I did > on my model 3 and figure it added around 3 #. Maybe you don't want the added > weight. But, it's just another option. > > Pat Reilly > Mod 3 Rebuild > Rockford, IL > > On Sun, Sep 27, 2009 at 9:10 AM, Mark Napier (napierm) < > napierm@cisco.com> wrote: > >> napierm@cisco.com> >> >> Bryan, >> >> Another method is to "peel" the fabric. If the bottom fabric was put on >> 1st and then the side you are in luck. You can peel and then re-glue >> the fabric and it will look like it had never been touched. I've done a >> couple of repairs this way and it does work. >> >> If you want to do this then do not cut the fabric. >> >> Take a thin but not too sharp knife and work the reinforcement tape >> loose from the bottom side. A piece of 0.25 aluminum with smoothed >> edges can make a pretty good tool for this. In the area you are talking >> about you will have to start close to the firewall and work back close >> to the main gear mount. The goal is to take the tape loose from the >> bottom fabric but don't break it loose from the side fabric and break >> the paint on the side. >> >> Once the tape is peeled back you can peel the "side" fabric from the >> bottom. The bottom fabric can then be peeled loose from the bottom >> tube. This is time consuming but better than having to paint a large >> area. You can take another piece of thin aluminum and bend it over to >> make a wide "hook" to make it easier to get at the edge of the fabric >> wrapped around the tube. >> >> Keep the fabric well back from the welding area and don't let it bend >> over too far as the paint can crack. >> >> When you put it all back do it all in reverse. Clean the tubes 1st with >> MEK. Try to keep it off the fabric. Reattach the fabric with poly-tak. >> Pull it as tight as you can. There will still be some loose spots and >> these can be tightened with heat later. Use poly-brush to reattach the >> tape. >> >> If done carefully the only visible sign you have done anything is the >> break in the paint at the edge of the pinked tape on the bottom of the >> fuselage. If you are really careful the break will follow the zig-zag >> edge of the tape. The repair is really hard to see. >> >> I know you will have to add some reinforcement tape to account for the >> new bracket you are adding, but you may be able to put those tapes >> "under" your existing fabric to hide the modification as much as >> possible. I haven't been able to get new paint to blend with old very >> attractively. Try to preserve the side tape and your touchups will be >> under the fuselage. >> >> Hope this helps, >> >> Mark Napier >> >> >> >> >> >> Time: 08:44:20 AM PST US >> Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: Grove Gear Model II >> From: "Tom Jones" <nahsikhs@elltel.net> >> >> >> >> > I am planning on installing grove gear on my model II. I will need to >> add the >> float mounting bracket and was looking for any help on how to weld this >> with >> minimal fabric damage. Any help would be appreciated. >> > >> >> >> Bryan, if the finish is Poly tone it is fairly easy to cut out a section >> of fabric >> and replace with new. If you have worked with fabric before it will be >> easy, >> if you haven't, someone helping that has will be a must and use the >> repair >> instructions in the poly fiber manual. >> >> I would use a straight edge and razor blade to cut out a section >> spanning from >> the leading edge of the stock front gear mount to about 8 inches forward >> of the >> new mount to be welded in. From the bottom of the door frame to about 8 >> inches >> in on the belly. >> >> To repair the fabric, poly tack one new piece to the bottom door frame >> and to the >> old fabric down and under the belly. No poly tack or wraping around the >> bottom >> longeron tube. When you shrink the new piece it will pull the old >> fabric >> tight and back into place. >> >> -------- >> Tom Jones >> Classic IV >> 503 Rotax, 72 inch Two blade Warp >> Ellensburg, WA >> >> >> Read this topic online here: >> >> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=265110#265110 >> Subscription, >> www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List" target="_blank"> >> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List >> ronics.com/" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com >> Matt Dralle, List Admin. >> ==== >> >> >> >> > * > > = --> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List > ; http://forums.matronics.com > blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution > * > > * > > * > >




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