Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     0. 12:16 AM - Contributions Down By 21%... (Matt Dralle)
     1. 04:54 AM - Re: Rotax spark plugs (Catz631@aol.com)
     2. 05:02 AM - Re: Metal panels under stab (W Duke)
     3. 06:25 AM - Re: kitfox 3 (kenjrichter)
     4. 06:27 AM - Re: Rotax spark plugs (paul perry)
     5. 07:11 AM - Re: Rotax spark plugs (Roger Lee)
     6. 07:33 AM - Re: Rotax spark plugs (Lowell Fitt)
     7. 08:05 AM - Re: Re: Rotax spark plugsRotax spark plugsRotax spark plugs (Joel Mapes)
     8. 08:06 AM - Re: kitfox 3 (akflyer)
     9. 08:12 AM - Re: Metal panels under stab (akflyer)
    10. 08:56 AM - Re: Re: Metal panels under stab (Dave G)
    11. 08:57 AM - Re: kitfox 3 (kenjrichter)
    12. 09:25 AM - Re: Engine Restraint Cable (Av8r3400)
    13. 09:53 AM - Re: Re: Engine Restraint Cable (Lynn Matteson)
    14. 10:57 AM - Changing engines (akflyer)
    15. 11:14 AM - wing attachment (jlno7@aim.com)
    16. 11:31 AM - Re: Changing engines (Jim_and_Lucy Chuk)
    17. 11:50 AM - Re: Re: Rotax spark plugs (Clint Bazzill)
    18. 11:59 AM - Anti-Seize (Clint Bazzill)
    19. 12:02 PM - Re: Engine Restraint Cable (akflyer)
    20. 12:19 PM - Re: Re: Engine Restraint Cable (Clint Bazzill)
    21. 01:19 PM - Re: Changing engines (akflyer)
    22. 01:20 PM - Re: Changing engines (Mike Chaney)
    23. 02:04 PM - Re: Changing engines (Av8r3400)
    24. 02:09 PM - Re: Changing engines (akflyer)
    25. 03:15 PM - Re: Engine Restraint Cable (Tex Mantell)
    26. 03:53 PM - Re: Engine Restraint Cable (Av8r3400)
    27. 05:16 PM - Re: Re: Engine Restraint Cable (Lynn Matteson)
    28. 05:24 PM - Re: kitfox 3 (kenjrichter)
    29. 05:30 PM - Re: Re: Engine Restraint Cable (Lynn Matteson)
    30. 07:21 PM - Oil Cooler Thermostat (frank3phyl@comcast.net)
    31. 08:25 PM - Re: Rotax spark plugs (paul perry)
    32. 08:58 PM - Re: Oil Cooler Thermostat (Maurice)
    33. 09:31 PM - Re: Rotax spark plugs (Roger Lee)
 
 
 
Message 0
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Contributions Down By 21%... | 
      
      
      Dear Listers,
      
      As of today, contributions to the Matronics List Fund Raiser are lagging behind
      last year at this time by 21%.  I have a fund raiser each year simply to cover
      my operating costs for the Lists.  I *do not* accept any advertising income
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      All of this costs a fair amount of money, not to mention a significant amount of
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      If you enjoy the Lists, please make a contribution today.  I also offer some incentive
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      Thank you for your support!
      
      Matt Dralle
      Matronics Email List Administrator
      
      
Message 1
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: Rotax spark plugs | 
      
      Roger is correct,the silicone paste used on the plugs is not the same 
      formulation as the common silicone grease you find in hardware stores,Radio Shack
      
      etc.This information came from Lockwood as I addressed it specifically in 
      Rotax engine class. I too have a "truck load" of the standard stuff but was 
      told not to use it.
       You use very little of the heat transfer compound on each plug. I have 
      done two spark plug changes and still have plenty left out of that little 
      packet. As mentioned the stuff is available at Lockwood,Leading Edge,CPS and I
      am 
      sure other Rotax dealers.
                                                               Dick Maddux
                                                               Fox 4
                                                               912 UL
                                                               Milton,Fl
      
Message 2
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: Metal panels under stab | 
      
      Knock on wood but I have not lost one in 500 hours.- That is not to say t
      hat I don't have a screw loose.
      
      Maxwell Duke
      S6/TD/IO240
      Dublin, GA
      
      --- On Sun, 11/15/09, Lowell Fitt <lcfitt@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
      
      
      From: Lowell Fitt <lcfitt@sbcglobal.net>
      Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Metal panels under stab
      
      
      
      Dave,
      
      That is what I used on my model IV.- I used screws about 3/4" long and on
      ce in a while they would back out a thread or two, but I never lost one in 
      900 hours.- After getting tired of tighening them from time to time, I us
      ed some medium thread locker on the screws.- No problems then.
      
      Lowell
      
      ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dave G" <occom@ns.sympatico.ca>
      Sent: Sunday, November 15, 2009 6:30 AM
      Subject: Kitfox-List: Metal panels under stab
      
      
      Mine look for all the world like the original method of fastening was using
       very course sheet metal screws in the tabs in the (poor) cellphone photo. 
      Is this what everyone uses? It seems to me they'll fall out and end up in a
      nother aircraft's tire.
      
      
      Dave Goddard
      KF IV 1050 / 582 / Warp 
      
      le, List Admin.
      
      
      =0A=0A=0A      
      
Message 3
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      Thanks for the response Michel and the question was about Subaru but I am interested
      in any info about the model 3, I flew a Jabiru in a Titan for a while and
      I really liked the engine light and powerfull but also expensive not as bad
      as the 912 but unfortunatley too much for my budget unless a cheap used one shows
      up,I think for now I will keep flying the 582 after hearing from Deke and
      others and reading some archives about the engine I fell better about it, I am
      really interested in how Murle williams modified the wing on his model 3 for
      more speed I looked up the sport aviation article on this and it looks like he
      just glued the half 1" pvc to the leading edge and feathered it in and left the
      rest of the wing alone if thats really all he did I would consider this but
      I will need more info before I try it hopefully I will hear back from him.
      
      Ken
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=273118#273118
      
      
Message 4
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: Rotax spark plugs | 
      
      
      Could someone explain why anti-seize is not to be used on the spark plug threads
      in the 912 series engines as I would like to pass the info on to my A&P.  Thanks,
      Paul Perry  KFIV Speedster 912UL
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=273119#273119
      
      
Message 5
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: Rotax spark plugs | 
      
      
      anti-seize is the wrong chemical compound and it is designed to lubricate and not
      transfer heat as a primary function. We care about even heat transfer and that's
      not what anti seize does.
      
      --------
      Roger Lee
      Tucson, Az.
      Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
      Rotax Service Center
      520-574-1080
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=273130#273130
      
      
Message 6
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: Rotax spark plugs | 
      
      
      I have a question.
      
      What is it about the Rotax technology that it requires proprietary heat 
      transfer compound on the spark plugs.  Is it something like only using 
      genuine Rotax oil filters?  Or genuine GM parts on my car? Or the factory 
      recommendation that my wife's car only run on name brand gas? - we discuss 
      this pretty often.
      I am a born skeptic, I guess,  but intelligent enough to understand an 
      explanation. if there is one.  I ran my old 912 using graphited antisieze on 
      the plugs, but of course, this began long before Rotax began conducting - 
      and charging for, I might add - their maintenance seminars.
      
      Can someone give a real rason other than Rotax recommends it?
      
      Lowell
      
      ----- Original Message ----- 
      From: <Catz631@aol.com>
      Sent: Monday, November 16, 2009 4:50 AM
      Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Rotax spark plugs
      
      
      > Roger is correct,the silicone paste used on the plugs is not the same
      > formulation as the common silicone grease you find in hardware 
      > stores,Radio Shack
      > etc.This information came from Lockwood as I addressed it specifically in
      > Rotax engine class. I too have a "truck load" of the standard stuff but 
      > was
      > told not to use it.
      > You use very little of the heat transfer compound on each plug. I have
      > done two spark plug changes and still have plenty left out of that little
      > packet. As mentioned the stuff is available at Lockwood,Leading Edge,CPS 
      > and I am
      > sure other Rotax dealers.
      >                                                         Dick Maddux
      >                                                         Fox 4
      >                                                         912 UL
      >                                                         Milton,Fl
      > 
      
      
Message 7
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: Rotax spark plugsRotax spark plugsRotax spark  plugs | 
      
      
      It is also available in smaller quantities at Radio Shack
      
      
      http://www.radioshack.com/search/index.jsp?kwCatId=&kw=silicone%20paste
      &origkw=silicone%20paste&sr=1
      
      
       		 	   		  
      _________________________________________________________________
      Bing brings you maps=2C menus=2C and reviews organized in one place.
      http://www.bing.com/search?q=restaurants&form=MFESRP&publ=WLHMTAG&cre
      a=TEXT_MFESRP_Local_MapsMenu_Resturants_1x1
      
Message 8
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  | 
      
      
      
      
      Kitfox has a PVC leading edge that glues on and gets covered over.  Does clean
      up the leading edge a bit.  It is not too expensive and installs easily!
      
      --------
      DO NOT ARCHIVE
      Leonard Perry aka SNAKE
      Soldotna AK
      Avid "C" / Mk IV 
      582 IVO IFA
      Full Lotus 1450
      #1 snake oil salesman since 1-22-2009
      
      hander outer of humorless darwin awards
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=273140#273140
      
      
Message 9
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: Metal panels under stab | 
      
      
      [/quote]
      
      Dave, yes that is the original installation method.  The tabs are so hardened from
      the welding that even the stainless sheet metal screws strip out.  I kept
      finding a few loose screws on each preflight so I switched to J-nuts with machine
      screws.
      
      Here's an example. 
      http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/04-00152.php[/quote]
      
      Stainless Steel is softer than Carbon Steel until you get into some of the exotic,
      or duplex alloys.  
      
      FWIW, the 2 kitfoxes I have worked on just had SS sheet metal screws and they have
      never come loose.
      
      --------
      DO NOT ARCHIVE
      Leonard Perry aka SNAKE
      Soldotna AK
      Avid "C" / Mk IV 
      582 IVO IFA
      Full Lotus 1450
      #1 snake oil salesman since 1-22-2009
      
      hander outer of humorless darwin awards
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=273147#273147
      
      
Message 10
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: Metal panels under stab | 
      
      
      Ok Thanks. I will re-apply the original stainless sheet metal screws with a 
      threadlock compound. I was not concerned for the panels, just for the 
      tires/safety of others. Sheet metal screws love tires.
      
      
      ----- Original Message ----- 
      From: "akflyer" <akflyer_2000@yahoo.com>
      Sent: Monday, November 16, 2009 12:10 PM
      Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: Metal panels under stab
      
      
      >
      > [/quote]
      >
      > Dave, yes that is the original installation method.  The tabs are so 
      > hardened from the welding that even the stainless sheet metal screws strip 
      > out.  I kept finding a few loose screws on each preflight so I switched to 
      > J-nuts with machine screws.
      >
      > Here's an example.
      > http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/04-00152.php[/quote]
      >
      > Stainless Steel is softer than Carbon Steel until you get into some of the 
      > exotic, or duplex alloys.
      >
      > FWIW, the 2 kitfoxes I have worked on just had SS sheet metal screws and 
      > they have never come loose.
      >
      > --------
      > DO NOT ARCHIVE
      > Leonard Perry aka SNAKE
      > Soldotna AK
      > Avid "C" / Mk IV
      > 582 IVO IFA
      > Full Lotus 1450
      > #1 snake oil salesman since 1-22-2009
      >
      > hander outer of humorless darwin awards
      >
      >
      > Read this topic online here:
      >
      > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=273147#273147
      >
      >
      > 
      
      
Message 11
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  | 
      
      
      
      
      I have talked to John Mcbean at Kitfox a few times about pricing and installing
      a mod 4 wing on my 3 but he never mentioned a pvc leading edge that he could
      sell me I will email him and ask about this.
      
      Thanks 
      Ken
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=273157#273157
      
      
Message 12
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: Engine Restraint Cable | 
      
      
      Help me understand how this is going to help an emergency situation.
      
      If the engine departs the airframe or the its dangling by a cable or two?  Either
      way leaves mostly an uncontrollable situation, doesn't it?
      
      --------
      Thanks,
      Av8r3400
      
      Kitfox Model IV-1200 W/912UL & IVO
      Kitfox Model IV-1050 W/912UL & Warp
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=273162#273162
      
      
Message 13
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: Engine Restraint Cable | 
      
      
      I would suggest that a dangling engine is better than losing it  
      altogether.....think tail heavy if it's gone. If it's dangling by a  
      cable or two, the last 3-4 feet of landing altitude might get  
      exciting, but if it's gone, you're gone. At least that's the way I've  
      imagined it working out.
      
      Lynn Matteson
      Kitfox IV Speedster, taildragger
      Jabiru 2200, #2062, 814.7 hrs
      Countdown to 1000 hrs~185 to go
      Sensenich 62"x46" Wood prop
      Electroair direct-fire ignition system
      Rotec TBI-40 injection
      Status: flying (and learning)
      
      
      On Nov 16, 2009, at 12:22 PM, Av8r3400 wrote:
      
      >
      > Help me understand how this is going to help an emergency situation.
      >
      > If the engine departs the airframe or the its dangling by a cable  
      > or two?  Either way leaves mostly an uncontrollable situation,  
      > doesn't it?
      >
      > --------
      > Thanks,
      > Av8r3400
      >
      > Kitfox Model IV-1200 W/912UL & IVO
      > Kitfox Model IV-1050 W/912UL & Warp
      >
      >
      > Read this topic online here:
      >
      > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=273162#273162
      >
      >
      
      
Message 14
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Changing engines | 
      
      
      OK guys,
      
      I am working on an engine swap, and called he local FSDO to see what I needed to
      do as this is a different engine manufacture than what is on my airworthiness
      (mine states that it is good with ALL rotax engines).
      
      The local guy said that I needed to go back to the original faa office that gave
      approval the kit manufacture ?? Has anyone else gone through this?  say a swap
      from a rotax to a VW or Subie or some other engine that is not purpose built
      for aircraft?  I would think that the inspector may want to come out and look
      at it, maybe through me back to phase 1 for XX hrs to prove out the engine,
      but it should be done on the local level I would think...
      
      --------
      DO NOT ARCHIVE
      Leonard Perry aka SNAKE
      Soldotna AK
      Avid "C" / Mk IV 
      582 IVO IFA
      Full Lotus 1450
      #1 snake oil salesman since 1-22-2009
      
      hander outer of humorless darwin awards
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=273176#273176
      
      
Message 15
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  | 
      
      
      
      
      I have a Kitfox one with two modifications. How can I replace the piece 
      of metal that reinforces two bolts that are used when you fold the 
      wings out at the leading edge?  They look like they have four rivets 
      each.  How can I get to them?  On one side is a wing tank and the other 
      has a storage compartment.  The metal pieces are broken on one side and 
      bent inward on the other side.  Do I need to purchase these metal 
      pieces or can they be fabricated?  What gage of metal is used and how 
      can they be shaped?
      
      Jerry Novak
      Pulaski, WI
      
      
Message 16
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Changing engines | 
      
      
      I went through this on my Avid B and later on my MK IV Avid when I changed 
      the 582 out to the Jabiru.  Depending when your airworthyness cert was issu
      ed=2C different procedures come into play.  Some require an FAA inspection
      =2C with a more recently issued AW cert it may not.  Look in your operating
       limitations=2C and it will tell you what you have to do with your plane.  
      I needed inspections on both of my Avids=2C even when I changed out from a 
      532 to a 582 on my first B model Avid.  Both times the local FSDO did the i
      nspections (at no charge)=2C although the B was originaly from Washington a
      nd the MK IV was from Michagan.  The FAA was really helpfull in all of this
      .  Take care=2C  Jim Chuk
      
      > Subject: Kitfox-List: Changing engines
      > From: akflyer_2000@yahoo.com
      > Date: Mon=2C 16 Nov 2009 10:54:32 -0800
      > To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
      > 
      > 
      > OK guys=2C
      > 
      > I am working on an engine swap=2C and called he local FSDO to see what I 
      needed to do as this is a different engine manufacture than what is on my a
      irworthiness (mine states that it is good with ALL rotax engines).
      > 
      > The local guy said that I needed to go back to the original faa office th
      at gave approval the kit manufacture ?? Has anyone else gone through this? 
      say a swap from a rotax to a VW or Subie or some other engine that is not p
      urpose built for aircraft? I would think that the inspector may want to com
      e out and look at it=2C maybe through me back to phase 1 for XX hrs to prov
      e out the engine=2C but it should be done on the local level I would think.
      ..
      > 
      > --------
      > DO NOT ARCHIVE
      > Leonard Perry aka SNAKE
      > Soldotna AK
      > Avid "=3BC"=3B / Mk IV 
      > 582 IVO IFA
      > Full Lotus 1450
      > #1 snake oil salesman since 1-22-2009
      > 
      > hander outer of humorless darwin awards
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > Read this topic online here:
      > 
      > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=273176#273176
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      ===========
      ===========
      ===========
      ===========
      > 
      > 
      > 
       		 	   		  
      _________________________________________________________________
      Bing brings you maps=2C menus=2C and reviews organized in one place.
      http://www.bing.com/search?q=restaurants&form=MFESRP&publ=WLHMTAG&cre
      a=TEXT_MFESRP_Local_MapsMenu_Resturants_1x1
      
Message 17
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: Rotax spark plugs | 
      
      
      Hi=2C
      
      
      I am using FEL-PRO N-1000 Nuclear Grade copper graphite anti-sieze lubrican
      t.  Out of date and got it pretty cheap.  Not so if its in date.  1lb can
      =2C will last me for 1000 years.  Will send some if you need it.
      
      
      Clint
      
      > From: vr_baker@nvbell.net
      > To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
      > Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: Rotax spark plugs
      > Date: Sun=2C 15 Nov 2009 08:09:20 -0800
      > 
      > 
      > Anyone out there found silicone heat conductivity paste=2C Rotax p/n 897 
      186=2C 
      > for less than $158 for a small tube?
      > 
      > 
      > Vic Baker
      > S7 912S Warp
      > Carson City=2C Nv
      > ----- Original Message ----- 
      > From: "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1@yahoo.com>
      > To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
      > Sent: Saturday=2C November 14=2C 2009 8:57 PM
      > Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: Rotax spark plugs
      > 
      > 
      > >
      > > 582 plug threads are dry because of the aluminum heads and if you apply
      
      > > any lube you will not torque them correctly (correct torque is 238 
      > > in/lbs)=2C they will be over torqued and it should be on a cold engine
      =2C too.
      > > (page 11-4 of the 2 stroke maint. manual)
      > >
      > > --------
      > > Roger Lee
      > > Tucson=2C Az.
      > > Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
      > > Rotax Service Center
      > > 520-574-1080
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > > Read this topic online here:
      > >
      > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=272879#272879
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > > 
      > 
      > 
      ===========
      ===========
      ===========
      ===========
      > 
      > 
      > 
       		 	   		  
      
Message 18
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  | 
      
      
      
      
      Check out this=2C good for very high temps=2C  I use it all the time.
      
      
      Clint
      
      http://www.newmantools.com/felpro/n1000.htm
      
      
       		 	   		  
      
Message 19
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: Engine Restraint Cable | 
      
      
      I have not had this happen on a "real" plane, but lots of times on models.  One
      of the local guys builds alot and I do the test flights for him.  When we go
      into electrics, he though that a good friction fit would hold the engine on...
      I flew a few of his variable CG airplanes till I started checking them over real
      good before the first flight!  He used a plug in harness on one and when the
      motor came off, it came unplugged and was gone.   She was uncontrollable tail
      heavy and came in spinning hard.  2 others he soldered the connections and
      when they came off it was just exciting for a few till I got it settled down..
      it was kinda like chasing a crane load that starts swinging on ya.  Both of those
      planes I was able to land in one piece.  I know the scale is different, but
      I am with Lynn on this one.  I would rather have a engine swinging a little
      and have a chance to get it on the ground, than to have the engine depart completely
      and have no option other than to try to bend over in the cramped cockpit
      and kiss your @ss good by!
      
      --------
      DO NOT ARCHIVE
      Leonard Perry aka SNAKE
      Soldotna AK
      Avid "C" / Mk IV 
      582 IVO IFA
      Full Lotus 1450
      #1 snake oil salesman since 1-22-2009
      
      hander outer of humorless darwin awards
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=273185#273185
      
      
Message 20
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: Engine Restraint Cable | 
      
      
      I do not think you need a cable around the engine on a Rotax powered aircra
      ft.  I know of 2 props that came apart=2C the vibration was so great that t
      he carbs flew off and engine stopped.  These engines are not like the heavy
       direct drive aircraft engines.
      
      
      Clint
      
      > Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: Engine Restraint Cable
      > From: akflyer_2000@yahoo.com
      > Date: Mon=2C 16 Nov 2009 11:56:53 -0800
      > To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
      > 
      > 
      > I have not had this happen on a "real" plane=2C but lots of times on mode
      ls. One of the local guys builds alot and I do the test flights for him. Wh
      en we go into electrics=2C he though that a good friction fit would hold th
      e engine on... I flew a few of his variable CG airplanes till I started che
      cking them over real good before the first flight! He used a plug in harnes
      s on one and when the motor came off=2C it came unplugged and was gone. She
       was uncontrollable tail heavy and came in spinning hard. 2 others he solde
      red the connections and when they came off it was just exciting for a few t
      ill I got it settled down.. it was kinda like chasing a crane load that sta
      rts swinging on ya. Both of those planes I was able to land in one piece. I
       know the scale is different=2C but I am with Lynn on this one. I would rat
      her have a engine swinging a little and have a chance to get it on the grou
      nd=2C than to have the engine depart completely and have no option other th
      an to try to bend!
      > over in the cramped cockpit and kiss your @ss good by!
      > 
      > --------
      > DO NOT ARCHIVE
      > Leonard Perry aka SNAKE
      > Soldotna AK
      > Avid "=3BC"=3B / Mk IV 
      > 582 IVO IFA
      > Full Lotus 1450
      > #1 snake oil salesman since 1-22-2009
      > 
      > hander outer of humorless darwin awards
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > Read this topic online here:
      > 
      > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=273185#273185
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      ===========
      ===========
      ===========
      ===========
      > 
      > 
      > 
       		 	   		  
      
Message 21
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: Changing engines | 
      
      
      Thanks Jim,
      
      I am trying to get ahold of the Seattle MIDA office, and I am sure they will direct
      me back to the local office... Fn government cant make anything simple, and
      they keep wanting to pawn it off on someone else to do their job.
      
      --------
      DO NOT ARCHIVE
      Leonard Perry aka SNAKE
      Soldotna AK
      Avid "C" / Mk IV 
      582 IVO IFA
      Full Lotus 1450
      #1 snake oil salesman since 1-22-2009
      
      hander outer of humorless darwin awards
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=273197#273197
      
      
Message 22
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: Changing engines | 
      
      Leonard
      -
      If I remember correctly when I changed from a Rotax to a Jabiru all I did w
      as contact the FSDO office and spoke to, is this case, the same individual 
      who performed my original inspection.- I think some paperwork exchaned ha
      nds and I was good to go.
      -
      Mike Chaney
      
      --- On Mon, 11/16/09, akflyer <akflyer_2000@yahoo.com> wrote:
      
      
      From: akflyer <akflyer_2000@yahoo.com>
      Subject: Kitfox-List: Changing engines
      
      
      
      OK guys,
      
      I am working on an engine swap, and called he local FSDO to see what I need
      ed to do as this is a different engine manufacture than what is on my airwo
      rthiness (mine states that it is good with ALL rotax engines).
      
      The local guy said that I needed to go back to the original faa office that
       gave approval the kit manufacture ?? Has anyone else gone through this?-
       say a swap from a rotax to a VW or Subie or some other engine that is not 
      purpose built for aircraft?- I would think that the inspector may want to
       come out and look at it, maybe through me back to phase 1 for XX hrs to pr
      ove out the engine, but it should be done on the local level I would think.
      ..
      
      --------
      DO NOT ARCHIVE
      Leonard Perry aka SNAKE
      Soldotna AK
      Avid "C" / Mk IV 
      582 IVO IFA
      Full Lotus 1450
      #1 snake oil salesman since 1-22-2009
      
      hander outer of humorless darwin awards
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=273176#273176
      
      
      le, List Admin.
      
      
      =0A=0A=0A      
      
Message 23
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: Changing engines | 
      
      
      I don't know about you and your big two-strokes, Leni.  
      
      I still think an 8V71 Detroit is too much motor for an Avid.  Maybe okay in a a
      Magnum, but not your Mark IV...   [Laughing]
      
      --------
      Thanks,
      Av8r3400
      
      Kitfox Model IV-1200 W/912UL & IVO
      Kitfox Model IV-1050 W/912UL & Warp
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=273207#273207
      
      
Message 24
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: Changing engines | 
      
      
      prop Tq may be an issue, but dont you worry none, I beefed up the gear legs and
      the rudder area to handle it.  Thinking the gross weight is gonna be an issue
      for some... I aint skeered!   [Shocked]
      
      --------
      DO NOT ARCHIVE
      Leonard Perry aka SNAKE
      Soldotna AK
      Avid "C" / Mk IV 
      582 IVO IFA
      Full Lotus 1450
      #1 snake oil salesman since 1-22-2009
      
      hander outer of humorless darwin awards
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=273208#273208
      
      
Message 25
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: Engine Restraint Cable | 
      
      If you ever hit a bird and broke a prop, you would install a cable from 
      the engine to the firewall.
        ----- Original Message ----- 
        From: KITFOXZ@aol.com 
        To: kitfox-list@matronics.com 
        Sent: Sunday, November 15, 2009 8:17 PM
        Subject: Kitfox-List: Engine Restraint Cable
      
      
        Hello Kitfoxers,
      
        Has anyone ever heard of an engine completely departing from a Kitfox 
      in flight?  Has there ever been an actual case of a cable restraint 
      system proven in preventing this event?  Is employing a cable restraint 
      system a practical effort or a needless worry?
      
        John
        Columbus, Ohio
        Series V Outback, 912S     
      
      
Message 26
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: Engine Restraint Cable | 
      
      
      Sorry, guys.  I'm not getting this at all.
      
      
      You recommend putting a cable to a light sheet-metal firewall?  What will that
      do?
      
      Or through the firewall to the airframe?  Do you expect the cable to be stronger
      than the bolts that bolt the engine mount to the airframe?
      
      Or is the whole purpose of this cable to be a backup in case the rubber engine
      mounts tear apart?  This seems more likely, but isn't the mount designed to not
      completely separate if the rubber is torn out?
      
      
      I'm not trying to be a wise-guy here, just trying to understand the logic.
      
      --------
      Thanks,
      Av8r3400
      
      Kitfox Model IV-1200 W/912UL & IVO
      Kitfox Model IV-1050 W/912UL & Warp
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=273218#273218
      
      
Message 27
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: Engine Restraint Cable | 
      
      
      Not to blatantly bash the Rotax (just subtly), but from what I've  
      seen of 'em, there is enough wires, cables, hoses and fuel lines to  
      probably hold the engine in place. I think that's what kept ....was  
      it Gary's? ......plane flyable, and let him land after one blade  
      departed and the resultant vibration shook the engine loose. You old- 
      timers will  recall who I mean. I'm pretty sure that was a Rotax  
      engine. Seriously though, I'm NOT bashing Rotax, but I wouldn't bet  
      on any amount of the normal wiring, hoses, etc. to hold ANY engine in  
      place once the vibration of a less-than-complete prop begins.
      
      Lynn Matteson
      Kitfox IV Speedster, taildragger
      Jabiru 2200, #2062, 814.7 hrs
      Countdown to 1000 hrs~185 to go
      Sensenich 62"x46" Wood prop
      Electroair direct-fire ignition system
      Rotec TBI-40 injection
      Status: flying (and learning)
      
      
      On Nov 16, 2009, at 3:14 PM, Clint Bazzill wrote:
      
      > I do not think you need a cable around the engine on a Rotax  
      > powered aircraft.  I know of 2 props that came apart, the vibration  
      > was so great that the carbs flew off and engine stopped.  These  
      > engines are not like the heavy direct drive aircraft engines.
      >
      > Clint
      >
      > > Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: Engine Restraint Cable
      > > From: akflyer_2000@yahoo.com
      > > Date: Mon, 16 Nov 2009 11:56:53 -0800
      > > To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
      > >
      > <akflyer_2000@yahoo.com>
      > >
      > > I have not had this happen on a "real" plane, but lots of times  
      > on models. One of the local guys builds alot and I do the test  
      > flights for him. When we go into electrics, he though that a good  
      > friction fit would hold the engine on... I flew a few of his  
      > variable CG airplanes till I started checking them over real good  
      > before the first flight! He used a plug in harness on one and when  
      > the motor came off, it came unplugged and was gone. She was  
      > uncontrollable tail heavy and came in spinning hard. 2 others he  
      > soldered the connections and when they came off it was just  
      > exciting for a few till I got it settled down.. it was kinda like  
      > chasing a crane load that starts swinging on ya. Both of those  
      > planes I was able to land in one piece. I know the scale is  
      > different, but I am with Lynn on this one. I would rather have a  
      > engine swinging a little and have a chance to get it on the ground,  
      > than to have the engine depart completely and have no option other  
      > than to try to bend!
      > > over in the cramped cockpit and kiss your @ss good by!
      > >
      > > --------
      > > DO NOT ARCHIVE
      > > Leonard Perry aka SNAKE
      > > Soldotna AK
      > > Avid "C" / Mk IV
      > > 582 IVO IFA
      > > Full Lotus 1450
      > > #1 snake oil salesman since 1-22-2009
      > >
      > > hander outer of humorless darwin awards
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > > Read this topic online here:
      > >
      > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=273185#273185
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > >=============
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > ============================================================ _- 
      > ============================================================ _- 
      > ===========================================================
      
      
Message 28
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  | 
      
      
      
      
      I emailed John at Kitfox about the leading edge and they do sell a leading edge
      pvc piece that looks like the mod that Murle williams made with 1' pvc pipe but
      its molded so you don't need any filler I am planning on ordering this soon
      and installing it, I checked my Kitfox tonight with almost no wind and I get
      about 80mph gps confirmed at 5500 rpm I will post the results with the leading
      edge mod and no other changes.
      
      Ken
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=273224#273224
      
      
Message 29
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: Engine Restraint Cable | 
      
      
      Putting a cable "TO" the firewall won't do a damn thing except wreck  
      your once-pretty firewall. Putting the cable "through" the firewall,  
      around some tubing members and back out through the firewall, around  
      some substantial partof the engine where it can't slip off....through  
      an unused hole, etc.,....then bring the cable ends together and  
      parallel to each other, and use cable u-bolts/cable clamps to secure  
      the ends together. At least that's the way I did mine.
      The idea is to require the cable to break a weld, tear a piece of  
      airframe out, or do some other catastrophic damage in order to come  
      free with the engine. Maybe it'll just slow things down a bit....kind  
      of like an energy absorbing device. If some of that flailing engines'  
      energy is subdued, you stand a better chance of writing about the  
      incident on this forum....after a change of skivvies.
      
      Lynn Matteson
      Kitfox IV Speedster, taildragger
      Jabiru 2200, #2062, 814.7 hrs
      Countdown to 1000 hrs~185 to go
      Sensenich 62"x46" Wood prop
      Electroair direct-fire ignition system
      Rotec TBI-40 injection
      Status: flying (and learning)
      
      
      On Nov 16, 2009, at 6:51 PM, Av8r3400 wrote:
      
      >
      > Sorry, guys.  I'm not getting this at all.
      >
      >
      > You recommend putting a cable to a light sheet-metal firewall?   
      > What will that do?
      >
      > Or through the firewall to the airframe?  Do you expect the cable  
      > to be stronger than the bolts that bolt the engine mount to the  
      > airframe?
      >
      > Or is the whole purpose of this cable to be a backup in case the  
      > rubber engine mounts tear apart?  This seems more likely, but isn't  
      > the mount designed to not completely separate if the rubber is torn  
      > out?
      >
      >
      > I'm not trying to be a wise-guy here, just trying to understand the  
      > logic.
      >
      > --------
      > Thanks,
      > Av8r3400
      >
      > Kitfox Model IV-1200 W/912UL & IVO
      > Kitfox Model IV-1050 W/912UL & Warp
      >
      >
      > Read this topic online here:
      >
      > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=273218#273218
      >
      >
      
      
Message 30
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Oil Cooler Thermostat | 
      
      
      I'm about to install an oil cooler thermostat on a 912S, Series 7.=C2- I'
      d appreciate any input on lessons learned, particularly on routing oil hose
      s=C2-and anchoring the thermostat & hoses. 
      
      Frank 
      
      Series 7, 912S, Ivo In-Flt adj prop 
      
      N5929
      
Message 31
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: Rotax spark plugs | 
      
      
      Thanks, Roger for responding, but I guess what I'm asking is why? Do the spark
      plugs in a Rotax get hotter than those in Lyc's and Cont's or are the NGK  spark
      plugs more likely to be damaged by heat than those used in the other engines?
      Like Lowell...some explanation other than "just because Rotax said so"   Paul
      Perry
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=273249#273249
      
      
Message 32
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: Oil Cooler Thermostat | 
      
      I mounted the Lockwood oil thermostat, upside down on the left rear 
      cylinder head with an Adel clamp and short extension ( similar to Adel 
      clamp mounting of oil line to the oil cooler to the left front cylinder 
      head ), and close to the oil tank. The oil lines support the light oil 
      thermostat well. The Adel clamp just assuages my worrying nature.
      This allows the oil lines that go to and return from the oil cooler at 
      the front of the engine to connect at the forward end of the thermostat.
      The thermostat is mounted upside down to allow the bottom rear oil line 
      to the oil pump to pass easily under the crankcase, and the oil supply 
      from the oil tank to be at the same level with the upper rear connection 
      to the thermostat. Lockwood told me that upside down mounting was fine 
      as long as you were careful to purge all of the air out of the system.
      My oil cooler is on the front of the engine and my coolant radiator is 
      on the lower rear of the engine.
      When all is done I plan to zip tie everything together to control 
      movement.
      Maurice
      Series 7A, 912S, IVO 72" medium GA, Building
        ----- Original Message ----- 
        From: frank3phyl@comcast.net 
        To: kitfox-list@matronics.com 
        Sent: Monday, November 16, 2009 7:18 PM
        Subject: Kitfox-List: Oil Cooler Thermostat
      
      
        I'm about to install an oil cooler thermostat on a 912S, Series 7.  
      I'd appreciate any input on lessons learned, particularly on routing oil 
      hoses and anchoring the thermostat & hoses.
      
        Frank
      
        Series 7, 912S, Ivo In-Flt adj prop
      
        N5929
      
      
      3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
      3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
      3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
      3D
      3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
      3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
      3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
      3D
      3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
      3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
      3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
      3D
      3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
      3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
      3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
      3D
      
      
Message 33
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| Subject:  | Re: Rotax spark plugs | 
      
      
      First Rotax is the expert and Mfg. They have hundreds of thousands of hours of
      actual flight data and testing, not to mention millions of $$$ in testing and
      the Mfg of the 912 engine since late 1989. 
      How much of this do any of us have? Who has the facilities here to run an engine
      day in and out and the instruments to collect the data? 
      Second maybe the rest of the old timers haven't caught up to newer ideas and technology,
      which is definitely the case in a lot of GA stuff. If you make a change
      you are liable and you have to invest tons of money for testing and STC's.
      That's one big reason you don't see big progressive changes in the GA engine
      stuff. 
      If anyone chooses to experiment with their $18.5K engine then it's ok. This is
      also where they get good data on things not to do, from the guys that like to
      experiment. I think spending $3 on a little tube of heat conducting paste makes
      good sense and a good investment.
      The plugs don't get hotter. All we are trying to do is make the heads and plugs
      heat and transfer of the heat the same. By doing so you get a better marriage
      between heads and plugs.
      
      I don't quite understand why people are so reluctant to follow proven practices
      from an MFG that cost so little and is so easy. We have all invested so much
      time, money and education in our hobby, why stop on our on going educational process.
      
      --------
      Roger Lee
      Tucson, Az.
      Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
      Rotax Service Center
      520-574-1080
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=273255#273255
      
      
 
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