Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:52 AM - Re: battery capacity (Noel Loveys)
2. 06:24 AM - Re: Re: EGTs are killing me (Noel Loveys)
3. 06:46 AM - Re: Re: kitfox 3 (Lynn Matteson)
4. 07:58 AM - Re: EGTs are killing me (Mark Napier (napierm))
5. 08:01 AM - Re: Re: kitfox 3 (Patrick Reilly)
6. 08:09 AM - Re: Re: kitfox 3 (Patrick Reilly)
7. 11:30 AM - Re: Parker brakes (icaza francisco)
8. 12:02 PM - Re: Re: kitfox 3 (Marco Menezes)
9. 02:00 PM - Re: battery capacity (Dave G)
10. 08:38 PM - Re: EGTs are killing me (Cecil Stokesberry)
Message 1
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| Subject: | battery capacity |
My take on it, after having a look at the schematic, is the voltage
regulator requires some load on it at all times to work properly. Without
the load if you happen to turn everything off the regulator can overload and
go into runaway. If that happens with a 9XX and the built in alternator the
answer is simply to switch everything on and unfortunately, replace your
regulator/rectifier as soon as practical. If you have an optional high
output exterior alternator don't turn anything on because the voltages will
be high enough to fry bacon.
I do have a question I'd like to pose to Msr. A. Bombardier. Why didn't
they build in a load into the rectifier/regulator? It would make wiring a
lot easier for amateurs who are more interested in flying
Noel
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lowell Fitt
Sent: Sunday, December 06, 2009 9:10 PM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: battery capacity
This sort of sounds like it is right out of Mr, Nuchols posts of a decade
ago. He, at the time, was a regular participant on the Kitfox list and due
to his urging, I wired in the essential buss and all the trimmings in my
1993 Model IV. It sounded like a good idea at the time. The only thing,
though, was the need in the 912 installation, to put a dummy load in the
charging circuit on case you ever shut down the altenator to prevent frying
the regulator. I don't understand the circuitry, but that was what I
understood.
In short, the only thing my essential buss switch served for was as a
conversation starter as almost everyine that ever sat in the passenger seat
asked what that switch labeled "Essentail Buss" was for. I never installed
the dummy load and my day VFR flying for the 900+ hours the airplane lasted,
I never had an occasion to need it.
Bob Nuchols is the Guru, but most Kitfoxes do not use an alternator that is
capable of runaway charging voltages and the need of an alternator switch to
protect a battery from a runaway alternator. In my opinion, he might have
something to say about certified installations and particularly those in
complex aircraft like the Lancair and some others, but to use much of what
he recommends in our stock Rotax installations results in way overkill. For
some reason, I also prefer circuit breakers to fuses.
Lowell
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Franz - Merlin GT" <paul@eucleides.com>
Sent: Sunday, December 06, 2009 2:40 PM
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: battery capacity
> <paul@eucleides.com>
>
> On Sun, December 6, 2009 1:01 pm, Noel Loveys wrote:
>> The main requirement for the battery is to start the engine. If your
>> engine
>> doesn't have a starter you don't need a battery at all. For that reason
>> the
>> size of your starter and the amount of work it has to do should be what
>> governs the capacity of the battery.
>
> That would only be true if your essential load was zero. That is, the case
> if you
> require no power at all to complete a flight operation safely in the event
> of
> alternator or VR failure. Night flight, operation in Class B airspace, or
> IFR flight
> would certainly have some essential loads for lighting, navigation and
> communication.
> If you don't *EVER* need those, then it is reasonable to declare you have
> no essential
> load. The reserve battery capacity to complete a flight operation safely
> while
> operating the minimum essential load with an alternator or VR failure is
> usually more
> than that required for engine starting.
>
> --
> Paul A. Franz
> Registration/Aircraft - N14UW/Merlin GT
> Engine/Prop - Rotax 914/NSI CAP
> Bellevue WA
> 425.241.1618 Cell
>
> In general, the art of government consists of taking as much money as
> possible from
> one party of the citizens to give to the other.
> -- Voltaire (1764)
>
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: EGTs are killing me |
Good questions.
Gas does not form a solution with ethanol. Instead it has a phase
relationship. That means, for this instance, it can easily and physically
separated.
Separation is easy If you have 10% ethanol in your gas simply add an
equivalent amount of water. Ethanol actually forms a solution with water
and of course water cannot form a solution with gas so the ethanol laced
water just sinks to the bottom of the container like a lead balloon. You
really don't need to do much mixing. A little gentle stirring will suffice.
BTW it is true that some water can actually mix with gas but the quantity is
so low as to be insignificant. Much more water will mix with the ethanol in
egas before undergoing a phase separation with the gas. If you get a phase
separation of pre missed gas what you end up with is something closer to
mud than gas.
How long should you leave the gas before using it? I prefer to leave an
airplane for 20 minutes after fueling before draining the sumps. A guy who
bought a Lake LA-4 from my father didn't do that and also didn't live to
regret it. 20 minutes is enough time for even the smallest droplets of
water to sink safely to the bottom of your container. My recommendation
from here would be to either siphon or preferably drain the water/ethanol
solution from the bottom of the container and then filter the remaining
ethanol free gas into the plane through either a Mr. Funnel or a good
chamois ( felt ).
I don't want to get into why I think ethanol should be anchored securely to
the ground but I can say that you are right in the fact there is less power
per gallon in ethanol than in gas. It also has a much higher RON than gas.
The higher the RON, the higher the flash temperature and the harder it is to
get the stuff to burn. Because the flame ethanol burns with is completely
invisible I hope they put something into E-85 to keep unsuspecting firemen
away from burning cars or trucks.
Newer cars are built with higher compression engines, turbo charging and
much richer fuel mapping not to mention all new advanced ignition timing
than older models. They have modified the engines so much that they
actually work better on egas than on regular gas... What they don't do is
work better than older engines running on regular gasoline. Keep that in
mind when buying a new car. Remember as the U.S. cleans up its Diesel
supply Diesel cars will become much more common. I think Audi even has a
Diesel powered super car now.
Noel
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of WurlyBird
Sent: Sunday, December 06, 2009 9:47 PM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: EGTs are killing me
<james.t.trizzino@us.army.mil>
dave wrote:
> I get 100 to 150 hours out of plugs
But you also use mogas and so you don't have the fouling problem. But at
least now we are on the topic of e gas. How do you wash it? The only thing
I have heard you can do is add water to it let it sit and then drain it off,
this seems like a very time intensive process. And it requires you
voluntarily add WATER to your FUEL. For the sake of argument though, how
much water do you add to 5 gallons, and how long do you let it sit?
The other thing I understand about e gas is that ethanol is a solvent and
will dissolve the resin used in older fiberglass tanks. I have a leaky tank
so I plan on replacing them soon anyway with the ethanol compatible ones
from McB. Once these are replaced is there anything else that needs to be
done/replaced in order to just run e gas through the engine? i understand
that ethanol has much less energy in it and so burns cooler and at less
efficiency, I think I have heard that it usually has to run a little richer
then normal, anyone know anything about that?
--------
James
Kitfox 3 / 582 / GSC prop
The ink is still drying on my new certificate
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=276523#276523
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Just make sure that the rod ends still have sufficient thread
engagement, Pat. I'm sure you know this, but a good idea to remind
you and others not to just lengthen them without regard to how many
threads are still engaged.
Lynn Matteson
Kitfox IV Speedster, taildragger
Jabiru 2200, #2062, 820.8 hrs
Countdown to 1000 hrs~179 to go
Sensenich 62"x46" Wood prop
Electroair direct-fire ignition system
Rotec TBI-40 injection
Status: flying (and learning)
do not archive
On Dec 6, 2009, at 5:35 PM, Patrick Reilly wrote:
> Ken, I was at the hangar today. I pulled out the seat, extended the
> pushrod under the seat by about 1/4" using the rod end adjustments.
> Low and behold full alieron left and right has only between 1 to 2
> degrees of difference. They originally had 10 degrees difference.
> Seems close enough to me. I didn't look at the manual to see if I
> might have the pages you cited. I will.
>
> Pat Reilly
> Mod 3 582 Rebuild
> Rockford, IL
> On Sat, Dec 5, 2009 at 9:22 PM, kenjrichter
> <kenrichter@centurytel.net> wrote:
> <kenrichter@centurytel.net>
>
> Pat, I looked through my manual and I do have some info on flaperon
> rigging on page cf-18 it shows (flaperon neutral position rigging
> details) this page doesn't say which model it is but the figure
> looks like a model 3 wing and then on page cf-n-1 it has flaperon
> rigging instructions but its says model 4 on that page so this
> probably won't help you,my manual has different model numbers
> throughout the book not sure why this is.
>
> --------
Message 4
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| Subject: | EGTs are killing me |
Hey James,
I ran 200 hours on a 582 with the HACMan. It works pretty well. Be
advised that one way to lower your EGT's is by increasing the pitch of
the prop. Mine turned about 5800 static. Only problem I had with it
was the supplied barbs didn't hold the lines very well so I replaced
them with something a little better. Same with the plastic clamps.
Just use 2 turns of safety wire instead. To get a little more
adjustment range out of the HACMan I put in a "vacuum restrictor"
orifice (drilled out with a #40 drill bit) in the air sense line coming
from the air cleaner. If you do that then go up one size on your main
jets.
Also, the #55 idle jets that come with the carbs are too big. Replace
them with #45 and the engine will idle much better. Before I changed
mine out the motor would often quit on final approach and tended to foul
up on the ground. The iridium plugs help some too.
About avgas: I stuck my rings and had the engine sag on me during a
take-off run. It just plain quit taxing back. Fortunately I aborted
but 10 seconds later would have been over the trees with few options.
The inside of my engine looked like it was power coated white. Piston
tops, heads, exhaust system, all of them looked like they had just come
out of the paint shop and the cylinders were scratched. When I called
South Mississippi to describe the problem, he said "Let me guess, the
inside of your motor looks like it was painted white." This was at ~180
hours with mostly running car gas but getting avgas at stops cross
country flights. The oil was Pennsoil 2-stroke for air cooled engines.
Maybe the lead scavengers or other oils would do better, I can't say.
Now I can't buy car gas w/o alcohol but all things considered I would
rather replace my tanks than feed the engine on a steady diet of lead.
Charging system: The engine is only good for about 10 amps. For
instance, I could run the radio, strobes, intercom and still put a
couple of amps into the battery. However nav lights put me into the
red. Fortunately I almost never needed the nav lights! I used the
odyssey 625 battery with good results.
FWIW,
Mark Napier
Time: 06:00:34 PM PST US
Subject: Kitfox-List: EGTs are killing me
From: "WurlyBird" <james.t.trizzino@us.army.mil>
Somebody with a good working knowledge of the inside of a Bing 54 PLEASE
HELP ME.
Lets start at the beginning, as temps started to drop below about 55-60f
I
started having EGT trouble and I started reading up and doing some
adjustments.
The needle jet, jet needle, and up until yesterday the main jet were
stock.
I installed the HACman which comes with 180 main jets and I purchased
but did
not install the next size up of needle jets, 2.74 I think. I read that
going
up a needle jet size could cool off the mid RPMs but I wanted to work
with
the HACman before I made any more adjustments.
So today I had the HACman full rich for all but a couple minutes of the
flight
when I leaned it just to make sure it worked properly. Temp was 32f and
PA was
500'. Climbing at 62-6500 yielded 1125-1150 and cruise at 5800 was 1175
as
long as the prop was loaded, any decent and it headed for 1200. I went
to adjust
the needle and found that it was actually on the bottom ring, tho one
that
I am pretty sure is not supposed to be used for a setting so I actually
took
it back up to the third ring from the top just to see if it was a case
of too
far in the right direction is no better and nothing improved.
According to the
chart I have seen I should be running the 165 main jet with stock
needles at
all temperatures at this altitude but it is obviously not working.
Should I install the 2.74 needle jets? Might this fix the hi temps? I
have a
new prop on the way that is bigger and that should help a little but not
when
it is unloaded. What adjustments do needles make, is there a better
needle for
my situation? Where I am the temps often swing 25-30 degrees through
the day
and I cannot chase these EGTs.
--------
James
Kitfox 3 / 582 / GSC prop
The ink is still drying on my new certificate
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=276401#276401
Message 5
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Lynn, Don't ever hesitate to remind or caution me about something. Two,
three, four.......heads are better than one. The rod ends have inspection
holes thru them and I made sure I still had plenty of threads engaged. It
was kind of odd though. The one end has about 1/4" more threads than the
other.
Pat Reilly
Mod 3 582 Rebuild
Rockford, IL
On Mon, Dec 7, 2009 at 8:41 AM, Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt@jps.net> wrote:
>
> Just make sure that the rod ends still have sufficient thread engagement,
> Pat. I'm sure you know this, but a good idea to remind you and others not to
> just lengthen them without regard to how many threads are still engaged.
>
>
> Lynn Matteson
> Kitfox IV Speedster, taildragger
> Jabiru 2200, #2062, 820.8 hrs
> Countdown to 1000 hrs~179 to go
>
> Sensenich 62"x46" Wood prop
> Electroair direct-fire ignition system
> Rotec TBI-40 injection
> Status: flying (and learning)
> do not archive
>
>
> On Dec 6, 2009, at 5:35 PM, Patrick Reilly wrote:
>
> Ken, I was at the hangar today. I pulled out the seat, extended the pushrod
>> under the seat by about 1/4" using the rod end adjustments. Low and behold
>> full alieron left and right has only between 1 to 2 degrees of difference.
>> They originally had 10 degrees difference. Seems close enough to me. I
>> didn't look at the manual to see if I might have the pages you cited. I
>> will.
>>
>>
>> Pat Reilly
>> Mod 3 582 Rebuild
>> Rockford, IL
>> On Sat, Dec 5, 2009 at 9:22 PM, kenjrichter <kenrichter@centurytel.net>
>> wrote:
>> kenrichter@centurytel.net>
>>
>> Pat, I looked through my manual and I do have some info on flaperon
>> rigging on page cf-18 it shows (flaperon neutral position rigging details)
>> this page doesn't say which model it is but the figure looks like a model 3
>> wing and then on page cf-n-1 it has flaperon rigging instructions but its
>> says model 4 on that page so this probably won't help you,my manual has
>> different model numbers throughout the book not sure why this is.
>>
>> --------
>>
>
>
Message 6
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Ken, Thanks. Good luck with your test flights.
Pat Reilly
Mod 3 582 Rebuild
Rockford, IL
On Sun, Dec 6, 2009 at 9:17 PM, kenjrichter <kenrichter@centurytel.net>wrote:
> kenrichter@centurytel.net>
>
> Pat, I'm glad you got it figured out if for some reason you do need some
> info from my manual I can fax it or copy and mail it to you, I've never
> really checked mine for travel it seems the flaperons have so much more
> authority than standard ailerons that you would probably never use full
> travel anyway but its good to have it set up right, I'm waiting to fly my
> plane with the new leading edge installed I have it ready now I just need
> time and weather to fly.
>
> --------
> Ken Richter
> Osceola,Wi
> model 3 speedster
> 582/GSC prop/Grove gear
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=276529#276529
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Parker brakes |
Thanks very much Paul, I=B4ll check it again.
-
Francisco.
--- El vie 4-dic-09, Paul Franz - Merlin GT <paul@eucleides.com> escribi=F3
:
De:: Paul Franz - Merlin GT <paul@eucleides.com>
Asunto: Re: Kitfox-List: Parker brakes
A: kitfox-list@matronics.com
Fecha: viernes 4 de diciembre de 2009, 17:23
.com>
On Fri, December 4, 2009 9:35 am, icaza francisco wrote:
> I have problems with-the Parker brakes-in my Classic IV. I=B4ve purge
d them-from de
> bottom end many times, and I haven=B4t seen any air bubbles in-lines, o
r any leaks. The
> system works-fine for-the next landing, but after a week they get son
gy and I have to
> apply pressure several times to make them work.
> -
> I=B4m lost. Any ideas or suggestions?
My best guess is the leak is at the master cylinder from you symptoms. Is t
he fluid
reservoir higher than the piston? Air can get in during the backstroke if t
he fluid
inlet is not flooded.
--
Paul A. Franz
Registration/Aircraft - N14UW/Merlin GT
Engine/Prop - Rotax 914/NSI CAP
Bellevue WA
425.241.1618 Cell
In general, the art of government consists of taking as much money as possi
ble from
one party of the citizens to give to the other.
-- Voltaire (1764)
le, List Admin.
=0A=0A=0A Encuentra las mejores recetas en Yahoo! Cocina.
=0Ahttp://mx.mujer.yahoo.com/cocina/
Message 8
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Yep. Gap seals went on before the first flight so it's all I've ever known.
Still, at landing speed (dead stick) it's nearly impossible to get tailwhe
el to touch first. The 2 doesn't stall, rather it mushes, so eliminating th
at embarrasing bounce (or bounces) was a challenge early-on. I do alot of w
heel landings.
-
I suppose back-side of power curve I could get that tailwheel down but I ha
ven't tried that-yet. So, this thread about VG's on the horizontal stabli
lized has me intrigued.
-
Marco Menezes N99KX
Model 2 582-90 C-Box 3:1 w/clutch
--- On Fri, 12/4/09, Patrick Reilly <patreilly43@gmail.com> wrote:
From: Patrick Reilly <patreilly43@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Re: kitfox 3
Marco, Have you got gap seals on that elevator? Hey guys, got my airworthy
cert. today. The inspector noticed my flaperons aren't rigged properly. Rig
ht one doesn't go up as far as left one. I measured it there is a 10 degree
difference. I'll have to adjust the rigging. I have to admit I haden't mea
sured it. I put the bell crank level and hooked them up. I must have change
d something when I replaced the bent push rod under the seat.
-
Pat Reilly
mod 3 582-Rebuild
Rockford, IL
On Fri, Dec 4, 2009 at 11:18 AM, Marco Menezes <msm_9949@yahoo.com> wrote:
Elevator authority is definitely an issue with the Model 2. Has anyone ever
tried a larger elevator on the 2 and, if so, to what effect?
-
Marco Menezes N99KX
Model 2 582-90 C-Box 3:1 w/clutch
--- On Thu, 12/3/09, dave <dave@cfisher.com> wrote:
From: dave <dave@cfisher.com>
Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: kitfox 3
I tried them I think an inch or two ahead of the hinge line- parallel to
the hinges.- They did little for my IV .- I have found they help alot o
n super cubs.- The model 2 has less elevator effectiveness than a model I
V so I would think they would see more benefit.
I think you guys should post some videos of how much better they work.- I
don't think a model 2 will be able to drag the tailwheel down the runway.
My Model IV is marginal at doing it .
VG's do seem to have a few attributes. I have had them on my IV Kitfox for
over 1000 hours and I have not removed them yet.---I would like to al
ter some of the spacing and placement- but it flys so damn well- I just
don't find it high on the priorities.
[quote="Fox5flyer"]Mike, how far back from the leading edge did you- pl
ace them?- Did you place them horizontal to the hinge line or did you-
follow the leading edge line?
Deke Morisse
Mikado Michigan
S5/Subaru/CAP- 438+ TT
"If you put the federal government in charge of the Sahara
Desert,- in five years there'd be a shortage of sand."
-- Nobel prize-winning- economist Milton Friedman (1912-2006)
-
>- - ---
--------
Rotax Dealer, Ontario Canada
http://www.cfisher.com/
Awesome *New Forum *
http://rotaxaircraft.com/forum/
Realtime Kitfox movies to separate- the internet- chatter from the trut
h-
http://www.youtube.com/profile_videos?user=kitfoxflyer
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=276011#276011
nbsp; - - - ---(And Get Some AWESOME FREE Gifnbsp;--> http:=
======================
"_blank">www.aeroelectric.com
.com/" target="_blank">www.buildersbooks.com
="_blank">www.homebuilthelp.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List
ttp://forums.matronics.com
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| Subject: | Re: battery capacity |
I would guess that Bombardier didn't build in a dummy load because A) they
didn't design or build it, B) it isn't necessary when an actual load is
present C) the heat generated by wasting 12-16 watts of generated power
would be damaging to the unit without a constant source of cooling and D)
because this is the cheapest unit they could find that does the job most of
the time. (well it's cheap when Rotax BUYS it. No guarantee about when they
sell it).
I posted a long time ago about how these units regulate and the advantages
and disadvantages of each. The best by far is the key west unit if you want
to stick to "official" units. Any unit off virtually any permanent magnet
alternator equipped motorcycle, scooter, outboard, garden tractor, could be
used even one from a late model Harley if you are predisposed to Harley type
stuff.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Noel Loveys" <noelloveys@yahoo.ca>
Sent: Monday, December 07, 2009 9:49 AM
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: battery capacity
>
> My take on it, after having a look at the schematic, is the voltage
> regulator requires some load on it at all times to work properly. Without
> the load if you happen to turn everything off the regulator can overload
> and
> go into runaway. If that happens with a 9XX and the built in alternator
> the
> answer is simply to switch everything on and unfortunately, replace your
> regulator/rectifier as soon as practical. If you have an optional high
> output exterior alternator don't turn anything on because the voltages
> will
> be high enough to fry bacon.
>
> I do have a question I'd like to pose to Msr. A. Bombardier. Why didn't
> they build in a load into the rectifier/regulator? It would make wiring a
> lot easier for amateurs who are more interested in flying
>
> Noel
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| Subject: | Re: EGTs are killing me |
Mark,
You say you are using 2-stroke oil for air cooled engines.
The 582 is water cooled - in your experience does it make any difference to
use the *water* cooled 2-stroke oil or the *air* cooled 2-stroke oil for the
582 engine ?
Cecil in North Idaho
Kitfox IV 1050 582 C box GSC prop
On Mon, Dec 7, 2009 at 7:55 AM, Mark Napier (napierm) <napierm@cisco.com>wrote:
> napierm@cisco.com>
>
> Hey James,
>
> I ran 200 hours on a 582 with the HACMan. It works pretty well. Be
> advised that one way to lower your EGT's is by increasing the pitch of
> the prop. Mine turned about 5800 static. Only problem I had with it
> was the supplied barbs didn't hold the lines very well so I replaced
> them with something a little better. Same with the plastic clamps.
> Just use 2 turns of safety wire instead. To get a little more
> adjustment range out of the HACMan I put in a "vacuum restrictor"
> orifice (drilled out with a #40 drill bit) in the air sense line coming
> from the air cleaner. If you do that then go up one size on your main
> jets.
>
> Also, the #55 idle jets that come with the carbs are too big. Replace
> them with #45 and the engine will idle much better. Before I changed
> mine out the motor would often quit on final approach and tended to foul
> up on the ground. The iridium plugs help some too.
>
> About avgas: I stuck my rings and had the engine sag on me during a
> take-off run. It just plain quit taxing back. Fortunately I aborted
> but 10 seconds later would have been over the trees with few options.
> The inside of my engine looked like it was power coated white. Piston
> tops, heads, exhaust system, all of them looked like they had just come
> out of the paint shop and the cylinders were scratched. When I called
> South Mississippi to describe the problem, he said "Let me guess, the
> inside of your motor looks like it was painted white." This was at ~180
> hours with mostly running car gas but getting avgas at stops cross
> country flights. The oil was Pennsoil 2-stroke for air cooled engines.
> Maybe the lead scavengers or other oils would do better, I can't say.
> Now I can't buy car gas w/o alcohol but all things considered I would
> rather replace my tanks than feed the engine on a steady diet of lead.
>
> Charging system: The engine is only good for about 10 amps. For
> instance, I could run the radio, strobes, intercom and still put a
> couple of amps into the battery. However nav lights put me into the
> red. Fortunately I almost never needed the nav lights! I used the
> odyssey 625 battery with good results.
>
>
> FWIW,
>
> Mark Napier
>
>
> Time: 06:00:34 PM PST US
> Subject: Kitfox-List: EGTs are killing me
> From: "WurlyBird" <james.t.trizzino@us.army.mil>
>
>
> Somebody with a good working knowledge of the inside of a Bing 54 PLEASE
> HELP ME.
> Lets start at the beginning, as temps started to drop below about 55-60f
> I
> started having EGT trouble and I started reading up and doing some
> adjustments.
> The needle jet, jet needle, and up until yesterday the main jet were
> stock.
> I installed the HACman which comes with 180 main jets and I purchased
> but did
> not install the next size up of needle jets, 2.74 I think. I read that
> going
> up a needle jet size could cool off the mid RPMs but I wanted to work
> with
> the HACman before I made any more adjustments.
>
> So today I had the HACman full rich for all but a couple minutes of the
> flight
> when I leaned it just to make sure it worked properly. Temp was 32f and
> PA was
> 500'. Climbing at 62-6500 yielded 1125-1150 and cruise at 5800 was 1175
> as
> long as the prop was loaded, any decent and it headed for 1200. I went
> to adjust
> the needle and found that it was actually on the bottom ring, tho one
> that
> I am pretty sure is not supposed to be used for a setting so I actually
> took
> it back up to the third ring from the top just to see if it was a case
> of too
> far in the right direction is no better and nothing improved.
> According to the
> chart I have seen I should be running the 165 main jet with stock
> needles at
> all temperatures at this altitude but it is obviously not working.
>
> Should I install the 2.74 needle jets? Might this fix the hi temps? I
> have a
> new prop on the way that is bigger and that should help a little but not
> when
> it is unloaded. What adjustments do needles make, is there a better
> needle for
> my situation? Where I am the temps often swing 25-30 degrees through
> the day
> and I cannot chase these EGTs.
>
> --------
> James
> Kitfox 3 / 582 / GSC prop
> The ink is still drying on my new certificate
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=276401#276401
>
>
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