Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:36 AM - Re: magnaflux vs met-l-chek (akflyer)
2. 05:50 AM - Re: Axles (akflyer)
3. 08:15 AM - Re: Re: Axles (Lynn Matteson)
4. 08:54 AM - Re: Re: Axles (Lowell Fitt)
5. 10:00 AM - Re: Axles (akflyer)
6. 10:07 AM - Re: Re: Axles (Lynn Matteson)
7. 12:00 PM - Re: Dye Penatrant and Magnaflux (A H)
8. 02:30 PM - Re: Re: Axles (Patrick Reilly)
9. 04:27 PM - Re: F210 reading very HIGH (jridgway)
10. 04:34 PM - F210 high readings (jridgway)
11. 05:45 PM - Re: Re: Axles (Lynn Matteson)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: magnaflux vs met-l-chek |
hmmm dont know about that. I made NDE my career...
I am not talking about taking the time to learn all the theories behind MT or
PT. For Level II certs MT is 20 hr class.. PT is 16 hr class. I was talking
about using an AC yolk and some 14am. If I cant teach a monkey (read new guy
that has never heard of it before) to use it for a specific purpose to detect
cracks in tubing or structural members in 15 minutes or less I will kiss your
back side and give you an hour to draw a crowd LOL. I am not talking about doing
head shots, or figuring out how many turns on a coil you need to get the
proper magnetic field for an adequate inspection... a yolk, pie gauge, some powder
or WFMP and 15 minutes... easy!
My first PT job was under a reformer doing 2" pig tail welds coming on the fire
tubes. After that 2 week job it took me about a month to get my face and arms
to a point that I did not look like a clown with red crap all over my face LOL.
I know what you are saying on proper training... I have sat in way too many classes
over the years.
180 HRs of RT and Rad safety (plus 80 hrs corporate radiation safety)
120 Hrs UT
60 hrs of MT and PT
40 hrs MFE
40 hrs IRIS
the list goes on and on, but ya get the picture LOL.
--------
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Leonard Perry aka SNAKE
Soldotna AK
Avid "C" / Mk IV
582 (87 hrs and counting on the rebuild)
IVO IFA
Full Lotus 1450
#1 snake oil salesman since 1-22-2009
I would rather die trying to live, than to live trying not to die....
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=278224#278224
Message 2
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I ordered some .750" 4130 .250" wall thickness and took it over to a buddy of mine
to have the ends threaded for the nut. I left a few inches sticking out on
the inside of each axle so I can get the jack on it for doing wheel to ski swaps.
I have bent the solid axles, but have not yet bent the hollow axles. Hollow
is actually stronger and less prone to bending than the solid ones so my
engineer buddies say.
--------
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Leonard Perry aka SNAKE
Soldotna AK
Avid "C" / Mk IV
582 (87 hrs and counting on the rebuild)
IVO IFA
Full Lotus 1450
#1 snake oil salesman since 1-22-2009
I would rather die trying to live, than to live trying not to die....
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=278225#278225
Message 3
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Just be sure the ski axle is long enough to counteract the forces
that will be exerted on it by those frozen ruts acting on the ski
itself. Three feet or so of leverage (half-length of ski) acting on a
2" long axle can produce quite a force. I tend to overbuild maybe,
but better that than some wreckage.
Lynn Matteson
Kitfox IV Speedster, taildragger
Jabiru 2200, #2062, 824.8 hrs
Countdown to 1000 hrs~178 to go
Sensenich 62"x46" Wood prop
Electroair direct-fire ignition system
Rotec TBI-40 injection
Status: flying (and learning)
On Dec 19, 2009, at 8:47 PM, Patrick Reilly wrote:
> Lynn, I was planning on extending the 1 3/8' stub 7/8" with a 3/4
> to 1/2" steel reducer bushing to accomadate a 3/4" x 2" long bronze
> oilite bushing. I am going to run a 1/2" steel rod inside the
> hollow axle and reducer retained by the axle retaining bolt. I'll
> hold the oilite bushing on with a washer on the axle and a cotter
> pin or retaining clip. I hope the assembly will be strong enough
> with that 1/2" mild steel rod down the center. I'll only be
> extending by 7/8". If the axle would have been 7/8" or 1" longer it
> would have been perfect..
>
> Pat Reilly
> Mod 3 582 Rebuild
> Rockford, IL
>
Message 4
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I like the idea of the 4130 tubing for the axles, but I have found in
several applications using 4130 that the tubing outside diameter is always
several thousands over an exact .750". That is after using the correct size
reamer in the reciever tube.
I have tried to get it inside .750 ID bearings - no go. and this is a
constant with smaller diameters as well - at least the tubing from ACS.
What did you do to get it in the landing gear? Did your friend also machine
the OD to .750?
I just checked my reamer and a piece of .750" stock and the reamer checked
out at .750 and the tube at .755.
Lowell
----- Original Message -----
From: "akflyer" <akflyer_2000@yahoo.com>
Sent: Sunday, December 20, 2009 5:48 AM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: Axles
>
> I ordered some .750" 4130 .250" wall thickness and took it over to a buddy
> of mine to have the ends threaded for the nut. I left a few inches
> sticking out on the inside of each axle so I can get the jack on it for
> doing wheel to ski swaps. I have bent the solid axles, but have not yet
> bent the hollow axles. Hollow is actually stronger and less prone to
> bending than the solid ones so my engineer buddies say.
>
> --------
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
> Leonard Perry aka SNAKE
> Soldotna AK
> Avid "C" / Mk IV
> 582 (87 hrs and counting on the rebuild)
> IVO IFA
> Full Lotus 1450
> #1 snake oil salesman since 1-22-2009
>
> I would rather die trying to live, than to live trying not to die....
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=278225#278225
>
>
>
Message 5
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chucked it in the lathe, then used a machine file very lightly to get the .750
OD. Could have just turned it on the lathe but the file was alot quicker.
--------
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Leonard Perry aka SNAKE
Soldotna AK
Avid "C" / Mk IV
582 (87 hrs and counting on the rebuild)
IVO IFA
Full Lotus 1450
#1 snake oil salesman since 1-22-2009
I would rather die trying to live, than to live trying not to die....
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=278265#278265
Message 6
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Adjustable reamer?
Lynn Matteson
Kitfox IV Speedster, taildragger
Jabiru 2200, #2062, 824.8 hrs
Countdown to 1000 hrs~178 to go
Sensenich 62"x46" Wood prop
Electroair direct-fire ignition system
Rotec TBI-40 injection
Status: flying (and learning)
On Dec 20, 2009, at 11:45 AM, Lowell Fitt wrote:
> <lcfitt@sbcglobal.net>
>
> I just checked my reamer and a piece of .750" stock and the reamer
> checked out at .750 and the tube at .755.
>
> Lowell
Message 7
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| Subject: | RE: Dye Penatrant and Magnaflux |
Both processes will require all paint/powder coating removed from the item
being checked and free from grease=2C oil=2C etc. Do not use a wire brush
or anything harder than the material being checked (no metal scrapers) to c
lean any of the parts as the scratches from cleaning can give an erroneous
indication of a crack. Plastic or brass brush(sometimes) and/or Plexiglas
scraper should be used. And forget bead blasting as that can move material
over the crack=2C plastic or walnut shells is acceptable.
Magnaflux requires an electric current to flow through the ferrous material
=2C ie crankshaft=2C bolt=2C connecting rod=2C and the change in polarity
that occurs at a crack is shown when a fluid with a marker dye(fluorescent)
is flowed over the part. Unless the tubing is removed from the aircraft I
don't think that you'll be able to use Magnaflux. An engine mount could b
e tested=2C if the operator does it correctly.
Dye Penetrate inspection is easier to be done in the field. But I would fi
nd a mechanic in your area who does it routinely. It is very specific in t
he application and use of the developer to expose the crack. Once again yo
u can get false positives and or not see the actual crack if the operator d
oes not have experience in what to look for. We regularly have to do bores
cope compressor/power turbine inspections and I don't do it myself. I have
the same guy look into the engines=2C cause he knows what to look for. W
e also have a biased input into what we want to see and that can influence
the outcome.
Andy
_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail: Trusted email with Microsoft=92s powerful SPAM protection.
Message 8
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Lynn, Thanks for advice. Wouldn't a shorter axle be less tortional force on
the axle? It would require the mount to be heavier in the axle area but have
less force on the axle perpendicular to the axle than a longer one. I like
to over build too. You guys can buy those 3/4" 4130 hollow axles from Brian
Tracy in Oregon for $35 a pair with axle nuts. At least I think the name is
Brian Tracy. Thats where I got mine. They are 1 3/8" longer than the
original KF axles.
Pat Reilly
On Sun, Dec 20, 2009 at 9:48 AM, Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt@jps.net> wrote:
>
> Just be sure the ski axle is long enough to counteract the forces that will
> be exerted on it by those frozen ruts acting on the ski itself. Three feet
> or so of leverage (half-length of ski) acting on a 2" long axle can produce
> quite a force. I tend to overbuild maybe, but better that than some
> wreckage.
>
>
> Lynn Matteson
> Kitfox IV Speedster, taildragger
> Jabiru 2200, #2062, 824.8 hrs
>
> Countdown to 1000 hrs~178 to go
> Sensenich 62"x46" Wood prop
> Electroair direct-fire ignition system
> Rotec TBI-40 injection
> Status: flying (and learning)
>
>
> On Dec 19, 2009, at 8:47 PM, Patrick Reilly wrote:
>
> Lynn, I was planning on extending the 1 3/8' stub 7/8" with a 3/4 to 1/2"
>> steel reducer bushing to accomadate a 3/4" x 2" long bronze oilite bushing.
>> I am going to run a 1/2" steel rod inside the hollow axle and reducer
>> retained by the axle retaining bolt. I'll hold the oilite bushing on with a
>> washer on the axle and a cotter pin or retaining clip. I hope the assembly
>> will be strong enough with that 1/2" mild steel rod down the center. I'll
>> only be extending by 7/8". If the axle would have been 7/8" or 1" longer it
>> would have been perfect..
>>
>> Pat Reilly
>> Mod 3 582 Rebuild
>> Rockford, IL
>>
>>
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: F210 reading very HIGH |
Still getting very high readings. 20GPH for 582. Last 1 hr flight only REALLY burned
6 gal. Double check rate indicator.
Anybody have a problem with air in the line to get crazy reading. I have a new/replacement
sensor.
Any other ideas?
thanks..jack
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=278303#278303
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| Subject: | F210 high readings |
HI..
Just installed a F210 on my KF3/582 and getting very very high readings (20GPM).
I double checked indicator and it was US GAL/MIN.
I flew today for 1 hard hour and only REALLY burned 6 gal.
Documentation says may be air in line. Anybody else have this problem?
Any ideas??
Transducer is a new replacement.
thanks..jack
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=278304#278304
Message 11
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A shorter "ski axle" would be less torsional force on the "wheel
axle", I believe. But I was referring to what the ski will do to the
"ski axle" if the ski axle isn't strong enough. A ski caught in a
frozen rut will try to twist, wrench, and otherwise mess with what it
is attached to...and the first thing it's attached to in your plan is
the "ski axle." I bolt my ski axle onto the inside/backside of the
Grove gear, using the 4 bolts that attach the Grove axle.
Lynn Matteson
Kitfox IV Speedster, taildragger
Jabiru 2200, #2062, 824.8 hrs
Countdown to 1000 hrs~178 to go
Sensenich 62"x46" Wood prop
Electroair direct-fire ignition system
Rotec TBI-40 injection
Status: flying (and learning)
On Dec 20, 2009, at 5:25 PM, Patrick Reilly wrote:
> Lynn, Thanks for advice. Wouldn't a shorter axle be less tortional
> force on the axle? It would require the mount to be heavier in the
> axle area but have less force on the axle perpendicular to the axle
> than a longer one. I like to over build too. You guys can buy those
> 3/4" 4130 hollow axles from Brian Tracy in Oregon for $35 a pair
> with axle nuts. At least I think the name is Brian Tracy. Thats
> where I got mine. They are 1 3/8" longer than the original KF axles.
>
> Pat Reilly
>
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