Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:50 AM - Ethanol Issue (Catz631@aol.com)
2. 10:18 AM - Leading edge to center of wheel. (Clint Bazzill)
3. 10:30 AM - Re: Leading edge to center of wheel. (Benny Svien)
4. 11:34 AM - Re: Leading edge to center of wheel. (kirk hull)
5. 02:51 PM - Re: Leading edge to center of wheel. (Patrick Reilly)
6. 07:34 PM - Apologies all around (Marco Menezes)
Message 1
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There wasn't anything on the Kitfox list so thought I would put this on fo
r
your reading pleasure.( I also put it on the Rotax list) It applies to
British cars but ,I think much of it to our airplanes also.
Dick Maddux
Fox 4
Milton,Fl
The Ethanol Issue
Gasoline containing ethanol has become the new standard
for fuel, and it presents a new set of challenges and
work for classic car owners. You=99ve got to be vigilant now
to ensure a good running engine and prevent damage to
your cherished car.
What=99s the problem, you ask?
Ethanol, made from corn or grain, is added to gasoline to
oxygenate it, replacing the older additive, MTBE. Names for
gasoline mixed with ethanol include E10, gasohol, corn fuel,
alcohol fuel, and reformulated or renewable fuel.
The key problem is that ethanol absorbs water from the
atmosphere. In fact, fuel with 10 percent ethanol absorbs
up to 50 times more water than standard gasoline. Older
gas tanks found in many classic cars vent to the atmosphere,
increasing the likelihood that moisture will be absorbed into
the gas tank at a rapid pace.
The end result of water in the fuel is phase separation.
The fuel separates into two distinct layers: a thick layer of
gasoline mixed with a little ethanol on top, and a thinner
layer on the bottom consisting of water mixed with most of
the ethanol. And it doesn=99t take much water for this to happen
=94
phase separation occurs in a gallon of 10 percent ethanol
blend with just 3.8 teaspoons of water.
Fuel Phase Separation Problems
What happens to your car and it=99s performance when
water causes fuel phase separation?
Reduced fuel longevity: A gasoline/ethanol blend
absorbs water until it triggers phase separation. The blend has a 90-day
product life in a closed tank, but lasts just 30 to 45 days in a vented
tank
often found in classic cars. With 10 percent ethanol blends, owners are
supposed to replace the fuel in vented tanks about once a month by driving
or draining, taking into consideration the humidity in the atmosphere
and temperatures.
Lower fuel octane: The ethanol in a gasoline blend provides some
of the octane rating. When phase separation occurs, the octane rating of
the remaining fuel can drop by as much as three points.
Poor engine performance: The fuel pump could easily pick up
a slug of the water/ethanol slurry at the bottom of the tank, interrupting
the flow of gas to the engine. This will cause the engine to miss, run
rough and possibly stall altogether.
Corrosion and rust: Water in the bottom of the fuel tank and
inside the fuel lines will cause corrosion and rust, and the solvent
properties
of the ethanol will loosen that up, along with bits of sediment and
deposits. The resulting debris floating in the fuel could clog fuel
filters,
fuel lines and carburetor float valves.
Specific Parts Affected by Ethanol
Fuel tank: Ethanol could dislodge sediment and deposits in older
gas tanks and fuel lines. Loose debris in the fuel could clog the fuel
filter,
or cause engine flooding if the carburetor float valve sticks.
Fuel pump: Rubber diaphragms inside the fuel pump may have
problems with ethanol exposure.
Carburetor float valve: Float valve needles on early cars were
brass, and these were replaced with plastic needles or brass needles with
Viton (a specific type of rubber) tips. Ethanol can cause the plastic
needles
to swell up and stick either open or shut, which causes either massive
flooding or starves the carburetor for fuel. Some owners have resorted
to shaving down the plastic needle to get it to ride smoothly and seat
properly. Instead, you can install an all-brass needle and seat, or a
Vitontipped
needle if available for your car model, which are not affected by
lower levels of ethanol.
Carburetor floats: The Zenith-Stromberg floats found specifically/
only in the TR4 and 4A made of foam covered with a skin may deteriorate
when exposed to ethanol. Other plastic floats, like those used by SU,
may also be affected.
Hoses: Ethanol could dry out or deteriorate rubber hoses.
Seals: Ethanol could shrink, swell or deteriorate seals, depending
on the material.
Gaskets: Ethanol may deteriorate the rubber
in rubber/cork composite gaskets. Fiber washers
and gaskets are not affected.
Aluminum and aluminum alloy parts:
Aluminum and alloys fare fine with 10 percent
ethanol, but are damaged by 25 percent ethanol.
Avoiding Ethanol Problems
Run your engine on fresh fuel from a major
supplier in a location with lots of traffic.
Add fuel stabilizers when you put gas in your
car to lengthen the life span of the fuel.
Buy higher-octane gasoline to be certain your
engine gets the minimum octane necessary for
good performance.
Keep track of the dates you buy fuel, how
much you bought, and how much is in the tank
when left sitting for a period of time. Keep a log
book for reference.
If you have a closed tank, make sure it is truly
closed. Listen for a hiss of air escaping when you
take the gas cap off after driving.
Test your gas tank periodically to see if water
is accumulating or phase separation has occurred.
Treat accordingly.
If you don=99t have a fuel filter before the carburetor
(many British cars only have a screen),
consider installing one to catch loosened rust
and sediments from the gas tank before it clogs
engine components. Moss offers one with a glass
bowl for at-a-glance inspection, yet it features a
period-correct look (Fuel Pressure Regulator/
Filter #377-435). Check your fuel filter often.
Consider adding a second fuel filter between
the tank and the fuel pump to protect the fuel
pump from damage from loose debris from the
tank (Moss part #377-310).
Keep engine parts well lubricated to counteract
the solvent effect of ethanol.
Regularly inspect all fuel system components,
seals and connectors from the tank to the carburetor.
Ensure there are no leaks and the system is
in good shape. BM
1. Use a fuel stabilizer when you put gas in your
British car.
Most of us don=99t drive our classic cars on a daily basis, so
the short gasoline/ethanol life of 30 to 45 days in a vented
tank, or 90 days in a closed tank, is a problem. In order to
extend the life of your car=99s fuel and delay the phase separation
that will eventually occur, you can add a fuel stabilizer
to your tank every time you put fuel into it if you=99re
not sure you=99ll use the gas within the product life span.
220-360 E-Xtend Ethanol
Gasoline Treatment (8 oz.)
(Note: There are a number of products on the market. We are compiling a
list to distribute to BCA members. Let me know if you have any products
to
add to the list)
E-Xtend doubles the fuel=99s life to
about 60 days in a vented tank, and
about 180 days in a closed tank. It
also contains antioxidants and degumming
agents to fight sludge and
prevent resin/gum deposits in
the fuel tank. As a result, the fuel
filter stays cleaner longer and the
engine runs better.
For fuel with 10 percent
ethanol, the ratio is one ounce of
E-Xtend for every six gallons of
fuel, so one 8-ounce bottle will
treat 48 gallons of fuel. The longneck
bottle makes it easy to pour
into the filler neck.
2. Test your tank periodically for water presence and phase separation.
When you=99re not driving your car and putting fresh gas
into the tank, or after the car has been sitting over the
winter, you can test your tank to determine if water is
present or if phase separation has occurred.
One test method is loosening the fuel tank=99s drain plug
and capturing a small sample of fuel from the bottom of
the tank in a clear container for inspection. Since water
collects at the bottom of the tank, you should be able
to see the two layers if water is present=94a pink layer of
gasoline on the top, and a clear or white layer of water
and ethanol on the bottom. It looks a lot like unmixed
salad dressing. You can use a test kit on the drain sample if
it appears mixed up.
If your tank construction allows a dipstick (a dowel or rod
works well) to go from the filler neck all the way to the
bottom of the tank, you can use a test kit for easier and
more reliable results. (This test method won=99t work on car
models with a bent filler neck unless you can figure out a
flexible dipstick that hits the tank bottom.)
220-362 Water Probe Indicator
Simply apply the Water Probe
Indicator on the end of the dipstick;
it turns red where there is water in
the fuel tank. For example, if there=99s a
half-inch of water in the tank, the stick
shows a half-inch of red.
3. Add an emulsifier to treat separated
fuel layers.
If you find water in the tank and
phase separation has occurred, you can
add an emulsifier to the fuel to remix
the gasoline, ethanol and water. (Note
that if there=99s an excessive amount of
water, you may have to drain the contaminated fuel from
the tank.)
220-355 E-Zorb Ethanol Gasoline
Water Remover (16 oz.)
E-Zorb emulsifies the water/ethanol
layer at the bottom of the gas tank
created by fuel phase separation.
The water and ethanol mixes back
into the rest of the fuel in the tank.
The water passes with the gasoline
through the engine and is released
as steam. The fuel regains the
octane (up to three points) that
was lost when most of the ethanol
separated from the gasoline.
The ratio is one ounce of E-Zorb
for 20 gallons of gasoline/ethanol.
The one-pint (16 oz.) bottle will
treat 320 gallons of fuel. You=99ll have
to agitate the fuel and emulsifier
in the tank by rocking the car from
side to side, and bouncing it up
and down. Make sure your suspension
can handle this!
Be sure to check out the Moss tech video on Dealing With
Ethanol at mossmotors.com.
Ethanol Solutions
www. b r i t i s h m o t o r i n g . n e t British motoring 29
301 British motoring Wi n t e r 2 0 1 0
F
hoW-to
Trying to decide whether you should keep your fuel tank
Message 2
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| Subject: | Leading edge to center of wheel. |
Hi=2C
I need to know measurement from leading edge of wing to center of wheel on
Model IV with Grove gear.
Clint
Message 3
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| Subject: | Leading edge to center of wheel. |
Tail wheel or nose wheel
From: clint_bazzill@hotmail.com
Subject: Kitfox-List: Leading edge to center of wheel.
Hi=2C
I need to know measurement from leading edge of wing to center of wheel on
Model IV with Grove gear.
Clint
_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail: Free=2C trusted and rich email service.
Message 4
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| Subject: | Leading edge to center of wheel. |
Assuming you are looking for the arm of the mains after installing the grove
gear for a weight and balance calc it is 0 on my fox
You might want to check by leveling the a/c then dropping a string with a
weight in it from the leading edge and measuring to the center of the wheel
_____
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Clint Bazzill
Sent: Monday, January 25, 2010 12:15 PM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Leading edge to center of wheel.
Hi,
I need to know measurement from leading edge of wing to center of wheel on
Model IV with Grove gear.
Clint
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Leading edge to center of wheel. |
Clint. By leveling the plane, Kirk means put it in level flight attitude.
That would be the door sill level, fore to aft. Then drop a plumb bob to the
floor from wing leading edge and center of wheel.. That would be the only
way to do it for any plane and it will differ with the different gear. You
need to do that for any weight and balance calculations. It's a hell of alot
better than taking someone elses figures for their plane.
Pat Reilly
Mod 3 582 Rebuild
Rockford, IL
On Mon, Jan 25, 2010 at 1:33 PM, kirk hull <kirkhull@kc.rr.com> wrote:
> Assuming you are looking for the arm of the mains after installing the
> grove gear for a weight and balance calc it is 0 on my fox
>
>
> You might want to check by leveling the a/c then dropping a string with a
> weight in it from the leading edge and measuring to the center of the wheel
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> *From:* owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:
> owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Clint Bazzill
> *Sent:* Monday, January 25, 2010 12:15 PM
> *To:* Kitfox list
> *Subject:* Kitfox-List: Leading edge to center of wheel.
>
>
> Hi,
>
> I need to know measurement from leading edge of wing to center of wheel on
> Model IV with Grove gear.
>
> Clint
>
> * *
>
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>
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>
> **
>
> *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List*
>
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>
> *http://forums.matronics.com*
>
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Message 6
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| Subject: | Apologies all around |
I sincerely apologize to everyone on the list and to Dave in particular for
-my rude, impolitic remark-made last Friday. It came at the end of a ve
ry long day and somehow escaped the filter between my brain and fingertips.
I was-the A--hole. :-)
-
Marco Menezes N99KX
Model 2 582-90 C-Box 3:1 w/clutch
-
do not archive=0A=0A=0A
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