Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 08:03 AM - Re: Hobbs Meter (Mark Napier (napierm))
2. 08:17 AM - Re: Re: Hobbs Meter (larry huntley)
3. 09:32 AM - Re: Hobbs Meter (akflyer)
4. 11:20 AM - Re: Re: Hobbs Meter (Noel Loveys)
Message 1
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Skystar sold a kit that mostly solved the problem. It consisted of a
wiring diagram and a bridge rectifier.
The idea is to connect the two yellow "AC" wires from lighting coil to
the "~" inputs on the bridge and then the + and - connections from the
bridge to the Hobbs meter. These yellow wires are already connected to
the battery regulator so you have to tee off of them.
Problem was it didn't work as is. The voltage regulator works by
actually shorting the leads from the lighting coil as needed to regulate
the charging voltage to the battery. That means under low electrical
loads the voltage on the AC pair is usually zero with the occasional 30V
spikes. The Hobbs wouldn't run except under a few RPM ranges with stuff
turned on in the panel.
The answer is to add a capacitor across the Hobbs meter to store up
enough charge to run it. I used a 50V 200uF cap and that was plenty.
Be sure your Hobbs will run on 5V to 40V. Most of them will.
Also note: Don't ground the "-" connection of the Hobbs to the airframe
ground. I know is seems wrong but that will interfere with the battery
regulator. Just let the circuit float with respect to ground. It works
great.
Also, whatever wires (either AC or + and -) you have coming through the
firewall, be sure to have in-line fuses on them in the engine
compartment *before* they go through the metal firewall.
Cheers,
Mark Napier
----------------------------------------------------------
Time: 06:55:22 AM PST US
From: Catz631@AOL.COM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Hobbs Meter
I had that problem with my Hobbs also. Once in a while I would leave the
master on to work on something and forget the Hobbs was running. I
solved it
by buying a tach that has a power wire that goes to the Hobbs. It
applies
power only when the engine is running . I believe it was a UMA tach. It
sure
works nice and problem solved.
Dick Maddux
Fox 4
912UL
Milton,Fl
________________________________ Message 2
_____________________________________
Time: 07:17:21 AM PST US
Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: Hobbs Meter
From: "Tom Jones" <nahsikhs@elltel.net>
On a two stroke engine you can install a micro switch that gets turned
on by the
oil pump lever. Make a bracket and place the switch so it gets turned
on when
the throttle is advanced above idle.
--------
Tom Jones
Classic IV
503 Rotax, 72 inch Two blade Warp
Ellensburg, WA
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=287962#287962
Message 2
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A friend just picked up a hour meter for his Taylorcraft because the tach
was not a recording tach. Runs on a battery and is activated by vibration.
Sounds good to me. Larry
Message 3
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you can buy an ac tach that hooks into the yellow power wires coming off the stator.
It will only run when the engine is running.
http://www.rotaxparts.net/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=447
I installed one in mine after I left my master on when I was rebuilding it and
racked up about 100 hrs before the battery went dead while I was away at work.
--------
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Leonard Perry aka SNAKE
Soldotna AK
Avid "C" / Mk IV
582 (100 hrs and counting on the rebuild)
IVO IFA
Full Lotus 1450
#1 snake oil salesman since 1-22-2009
I would rather die trying to live, than to live trying not to die....
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=288175#288175
Message 4
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Get another rectifier regulator and wire it up in parallel with the original
rectifier but sent the output leads only to the hobbs and the loading
capacitor. That will give you a consistent 13.8V only when the engine is
running.
I'm sure you will be able to find an automotive rectifier regulator that
will be a lot cheaper than the Rotax unit.
Noel
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mark Napier
(napierm)
Sent: February 25, 2010 12:33 PM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: Hobbs Meter
<napierm@cisco.com>
Skystar sold a kit that mostly solved the problem. It consisted of a
wiring diagram and a bridge rectifier.
The idea is to connect the two yellow "AC" wires from lighting coil to
the "~" inputs on the bridge and then the + and - connections from the
bridge to the Hobbs meter. These yellow wires are already connected to
the battery regulator so you have to tee off of them.
Problem was it didn't work as is. The voltage regulator works by
actually shorting the leads from the lighting coil as needed to regulate
the charging voltage to the battery. That means under low electrical
loads the voltage on the AC pair is usually zero with the occasional 30V
spikes. The Hobbs wouldn't run except under a few RPM ranges with stuff
turned on in the panel.
The answer is to add a capacitor across the Hobbs meter to store up
enough charge to run it. I used a 50V 200uF cap and that was plenty.
Be sure your Hobbs will run on 5V to 40V. Most of them will.
Also note: Don't ground the "-" connection of the Hobbs to the airframe
ground. I know is seems wrong but that will interfere with the battery
regulator. Just let the circuit float with respect to ground. It works
great.
Also, whatever wires (either AC or + and -) you have coming through the
firewall, be sure to have in-line fuses on them in the engine
compartment *before* they go through the metal firewall.
Cheers,
Mark Napier
----------------------------------------------------------
Time: 06:55:22 AM PST US
From: Catz631@AOL.COM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Hobbs Meter
I had that problem with my Hobbs also. Once in a while I would leave the
master on to work on something and forget the Hobbs was running. I
solved it
by buying a tach that has a power wire that goes to the Hobbs. It
applies
power only when the engine is running . I believe it was a UMA tach. It
sure
works nice and problem solved.
Dick Maddux
Fox 4
912UL
Milton,Fl
________________________________ Message 2
_____________________________________
Time: 07:17:21 AM PST US
Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: Hobbs Meter
From: "Tom Jones" <nahsikhs@elltel.net>
On a two stroke engine you can install a micro switch that gets turned
on by the
oil pump lever. Make a bracket and place the switch so it gets turned
on when
the throttle is advanced above idle.
--------
Tom Jones
Classic IV
503 Rotax, 72 inch Two blade Warp
Ellensburg, WA
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=287962#287962
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