Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 07:27 AM - Re: help--how to mount wingtips. (Tom Jones)
2. 08:53 AM - Re: Fw: help--how to mount wingtips. (Lowell Fitt)
3. 01:04 PM - Re: Re: Northstar problems (Noel Loveys)
4. 01:20 PM - Re: Re: Northstar problems (Noel Loveys)
5. 01:28 PM - Re: Northstar problems (vetdrem)
6. 01:59 PM - Re: Re: Northstar problems (larry huntley)
7. 01:59 PM - Re: Re: Northstar problems (Lynn Matteson)
8. 02:08 PM - Re: Re: Northstar problems (Noel Loveys)
9. 02:19 PM - Re: Re: Northstar problems (Noel Loveys)
10. 02:20 PM - Re: Re: Northstar problems (Lynn Matteson)
11. 02:22 PM - Re: Northstar problems (akflyer)
12. 02:56 PM - Re: Re: 912ul Oil and Filter (L Cudnohufsky)
13. 02:56 PM - Re: Re: Northstar problems (Lynn Matteson)
14. 03:07 PM - Re: Re: Northstar problems (Lynn Matteson)
15. 04:22 PM - Re: Fw: help--how to mount wingtips. (Guy Buchanan)
16. 05:25 PM - Brake pedal ergonomics (Tom Jones)
17. 06:29 PM - Re: Brake pedal ergonomics (WurlyBird)
18. 07:39 PM - Re: Re: Northstar problems (Noel Loveys)
19. 07:43 PM - Re: Re: Northstar problems (Noel Loveys)
20. 07:46 PM - Re: Re: Northstar problems (Noel Loveys)
21. 07:47 PM - Re: Brake pedal ergonomics (Lynn Matteson)
22. 07:59 PM - Re: Re: Brake pedal ergonomics (Weiss Richard)
23. 08:29 PM - Re: Re: Northstar problems (Zimmermans)
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| Subject: | Re: help--how to mount wingtips. |
> This is what I have guessed but a set of real instructions and pictures would
help with rivets/bolt pitches etc.
>
> Hoping for help, thanks.
>
> Dave Goddard
Dave, the "speedster" wing tip installation is fairly straight forward as you have
figured out. It is the builder's option to make them permanent by using rivets
and fabric tape over the top or Pk screws and form the fabric under the
tip.
I used rivnuts but that is a pain in the butt. If I build another I will use PK
screws.
I can't figure out how to attach the instructions. If you want I will email them
to you if you send me your address.
Tom
nahsikhs@elltel.net
--------
Tom Jones
Classic IV
503 Rotax, 72 inch Two blade Warp
Ellensburg, WA
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=290018#290018
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| Subject: | Re: Fw: help--how to mount wingtips. |
Dave,
I guess the first thought is if you want the tips removable or not. I chose
to permently attach them as your instructions suggest, but have a smaller
cut out in the tip for inspection purposes and to hide the lights.
I used the aluminum strips as you suggested glued and solid riveted to the
capstrips, top and bottom and then used pop rivets and the Hysol to attach
the tips to the aluminum strip. Sanding corrects the scalloping Guy
mentions, then a bit of filler smooths everything out.
I know there are advantages for removable tips and Guy's suggestion is an
excellent one, Thanks Guy, and would give a clean almost undetectable joint.
The most common method is to use the nut plates and screws. I have found
that the glass thickness at the joint is a bit thinner than the cap strip,
so if you wanted to lay up a layer or two of glass on the inside of the tip,
you could develop enough thickness to countersink the screws if you wanted a
smoother look.
Lowell
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave G" <occom@ns.sympatico.ca>
Sent: Wednesday, March 10, 2010 6:19 PM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Fw: help--how to mount wingtips.
My new wingtips have arrived and I'm very pleased. Unfortunately I need
someone to forward mounting instructions. On my 1991-2 Model IV 1050 the
original wingtip instructions showed them pop riveted to the last rib, and a
fabric finish tape over the joint.
The new hit came with aluminum strips and from pictures posted here the
other day I guess they are riveted (and glued) to the outer side of the rib
on the inside of the capstrip. Then the wingtip is screwed to nutplates
mounted on the strips?
This is what I have guessed but a set of real instructions and pictures
would help with rivets/bolt pitches etc.
Hoping for help, thanks.
Dave Goddard
KF IV 1050 / 582 / Warp
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| Subject: | Re: Northstar problems |
You need an access port on the bottom of the fuse to take samples from your
header. A nice addition on future header tanks would be for the tank to
have a small sump on the bottom to trap water.
Noel
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Zimmermans
Sent: March 10, 2010 1:15 AM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: Northstar problems
Here you can see the outlet on the front and the drain in the bottom.
Jim Series 5 0-200
21D MN
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| Subject: | Re: Northstar problems |
The simple answer to that is, if it bothers you install a screen after the
header tank.
Me... I like the idea of a gascolator with a clear glass bowl and a drain at
the lowest point of the whole fuel system. That's just me.
Noel
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of mikeperkins
Sent: March 10, 2010 1:15 PM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: Northstar problems
<michael.perkins@rauland.com>
A gascolator has a fine-mesh screen, the function of which should be
obvious.
A header tank does not.
- Mike Perkins
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=289915#289915
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| Subject: | Re: Northstar problems |
Let's see now....should I comment on "glass" filters?.........Naw, I'm sure he
ment to say poly-carbonate.
Louie
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=290045#290045
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| Subject: | Re: Northstar problems |
Did you ever get gasoline on polycarbonate? Larry
----- Original Message -----
From: "vetdrem" <vetdrem@hotmail.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 11, 2010 4:27 PM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: Northstar problems
>
> Let's see now....should I comment on "glass" filters?.........Naw, I'm
> sure he ment to say poly-carbonate.
>
> Louie
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=290045#290045
>
>
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
07:33:00
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Northstar problems |
I don't think so....the one I have in my hands (actually I laid it
down to type) has the feel and weight of glass, and the ends of the
glass tube look like they have been "flame smoothed" and I don't
think poly-carb will stand still for that, but I could be wrong. This
particular one is marketed by Mr. Gasket, and is not up to the
quality of the Purolator filters, in my opinion. The instructions say
"The glass housing will weaken if scratched or chipped. If the glass
housing is damaged or dropped, DO NOT USE IT-you must replace the
housing." I don't know if these warnings would apply if the housing
were poly-carb. But aside from the instructions, which may use
"glass" as a generic term, my experience tells me that this is glass,
and so are the 3 on my plane, and the other 2 or 3 hanging on a peg
in the hangar.
Lynn Matteson
Kitfox IV Speedster, taildragger
Jabiru 2200, #2062, 876.7 hrs (since 3-27-2006)
Countdown to 1000 hrs~124 to go(135 days to go)
Sensenich 62"x46" Wood (summer)
Sensenich 55.5" x 46" Wood (winter)
Electroair direct-fire ignition system
Rotec TBI-40 injection
Status: flying (and learning)
On Mar 11, 2010, at 4:27 PM, vetdrem wrote:
>
> Let's see now....should I comment on "glass" filters?.........Naw,
> I'm sure he ment to say poly-carbonate.
>
> Louie
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=290045#290045
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Northstar problems |
Lynn:
When you say "Glass filters" do you mean the cases are glass and the filter
material is something else or is the filter medium some kind of glass wool?
Noel
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lynn Matteson
Sent: March 10, 2010 4:24 PM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Re: Northstar problems
I'll bet my two Purolator glass in-line filters (before the header
tank) do exactly what that fine-mesh screen does.....and if they
don't, the one Purolator glass in-line filter *after* the header tank
does.
Lynn Matteson
Kitfox IV Speedster, taildragger
Jabiru 2200, #2062, 875 hrs (since 3-27-2006)
Countdown to 1000 hrs~125 to go(137 days to go)
Sensenich 62"x46" Wood (summer)
Sensenich 55.5" x 46" Wood (winter)
Electroair direct-fire ignition system
Rotec TBI-40 injection
Status: flying (and learning)
On Mar 10, 2010, at 11:45 AM, mikeperkins wrote:
> <michael.perkins@rauland.com>
>
> A gascolator has a fine-mesh screen, the function of which should
> be obvious.
> A header tank does not.
> - Mike Perkins
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Northstar problems |
Mike:
Even though I'm in favour of the gascolator, I do have to note that the
chances of stirring up debris is much higher in the gascolator than in a
filtered header tank of a gallon or more. The only thing I would like to
see would be to have the bottom of the header tank cup or funnel shaped so
any water would definitely flow to the bottom drain and not stay around in
the bottom of the header tank.
I used to service gascolators on bush planes that used a felt cloth to
filter all the fuel that went into the planes. Felt like chamois won't pass
water.... Remember the cowboy movies where the hero always gave his horse a
drink from his felt hat... The one problem with felt is that it is mostly
made of beaver fur ( Canada) and occasionally you will find a hair or two
that gets through the system as far as... you got it, the screen in the
gascolator.
Noel
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of mikeperkins
Sent: March 10, 2010 4:41 PM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: Northstar problems
<michael.perkins@rauland.com>
Lynn, thank you for providing me an opportunity to clarify. I wasn't
comparing the use of gascolators to filters, but rather making a distinction
between header tanks and gascolators - a header tank will not prevent
stirred-up debris from going on downstream whereas a gascolator will.
- Mike Perkins
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=289944#289944
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Northstar problems |
I think that's what Jim was pointing out, Noel. If you look at the
picture again, you'll see a fitting....looks like a quick-
drain....underneath the header tank. I think Jim just hasn't got
around to cutting the fabric at that point...or am I full of it
again, Jim? : )
Aren't the present tanks equipped with the bottom drain? Mine is, and
I think it was from a model 5 if not mistaken....Deke?
Lynn Matteson
Kitfox IV Speedster, taildragger
Jabiru 2200, #2062, 876.7 hrs (since 3-27-2006)
Countdown to 1000 hrs~124 to go(135 days to go)
Sensenich 62"x46" Wood (summer)
Sensenich 55.5" x 46" Wood (winter)
Electroair direct-fire ignition system
Rotec TBI-40 injection
Status: flying (and learning)
On Mar 11, 2010, at 3:40 PM, Noel Loveys wrote:
> You need an access port on the bottom of the fuse to take samples
> from your header. A nice addition on future header tanks would be
> for the tank to have a small sump on the bottom to trap water.
>
>
> Noel
>
>
> From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-kitfox-
> list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Zimmermans
> Sent: March 10, 2010 1:15 AM
> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: Northstar problems
>
>
> Here you can see the outlet on the front and the drain in the bottom.
>
> Jim Series 5 0-200
>
> 21D MN
>
> ============================================================ _-
> ============================================================ _-
> contribution_-
> ===========================================================
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Northstar problems |
Lyn something to think about.. Pipers originally came out with a glass gascolator.
There are an ungodly amount of cub drivers up here that crashed, survived
the impact but were trapped or pinned in the wreckage. The gascolator would
break and the ensuing fires would kill the otherwise pretty much unharmed pilot.
I know one of my flying buddies that watched a guy he had just checked out
in a cub do an accelerated stall and go in. By the time my buddy was able to
land and get over to the wreckage all he could hear was his friend screaming
as he was burning up... He would have survived that wreck had the glass not been
in place in the fuel system.
I don't think you can find a cub or piper around here anymore that has glass in
the fuel system.
--------
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Leonard Perry aka SNAKE
Soldotna AK
Avid "C" / Mk IV
582 (100 hrs and counting on the rebuild)
IVO IFA
Full Lotus 1450
#1 snake oil salesman since 1-22-2009
I would rather die trying to live, than to live trying not to die....
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=290052#290052
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: 912ul Oil and Filter |
Thanks Paul, great info on the filters.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of paul perry
Sent: Wednesday, March 10, 2010 11:58 PM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: 912ul Oil and Filter
Lloyd, there are extensive posts in the rotax forum on the subject of oil
and filters , but the last post by Roger Lee about filters at
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?t=14122&highlight=oil+filter seems
to sum up the situation best (at least for me) Since the rotax filters cost
so much more than the automotive filters that are available, each owner will
have to make a decision if they are really worth it, especially since many
have the opinion that the rotax is really not as good as the purolator or
mobil-1. I have used
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
01:33:00
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Northstar problems |
Noel-
The housing is glass, and the filter medium is some kind of nylon/
plastic/? material. I don't have the Purolator package here at home,
and don't recall what their marketing term was, but the Mr. Gasket
brand calls it a "Clear View Fuel Filter" Incidentally, the Mr.
Gasket brand is a poorly-made version of the same thing Purolator
used to sell. NAPA is another take-off of the same thing. The Mr.
Gasket one uses plastic (of some sort) screw-in barbed fittings,
whereas the original Purolator (as far as I know Purolator came
before the imitators) had one-piece end caps that had "gentle" barbs,
meaning that you could take the fuel hose off without pulling shards
of rubber/neoprene out with it.
From what I've seen, the NAPA brand is better than the Mr. Gasket,
but by the time you read this, they both may have gone downhill in
quality. Aircraft Spruce (2009-2010 catalog, p.164, lower left
corner) still shows the "Glass #804" filter, and the "Glass #806"
filter, the 04 and 06 referring to the size of the end cap barbs in
1/16" increments. Purolator used to sell a #805, which was for a
5/16" fuel line, but Spruce doesn't seem to show that one. And like
everything else, if you order, you may not get the genuine article,
Purolator, but one of the cheaper substitutes, which aren't ALL that
bad, it's just when you've seen and used the original, the others
seem to lack the quality.
Lynn Matteson
Kitfox IV Speedster, taildragger
Jabiru 2200, #2062, 876.7 hrs (since 3-27-2006)
Countdown to 1000 hrs~124 to go(135 days to go)
Sensenich 62"x46" Wood (summer)
Sensenich 55.5" x 46" Wood (winter)
Electroair direct-fire ignition system
Rotec TBI-40 injection
Status: flying (and learning)
do not archive
On Mar 11, 2010, at 5:06 PM, Noel Loveys wrote:
>
> Lynn:
>
> When you say "Glass filters" do you mean the cases are glass and
> the filter
> material is something else or is the filter medium some kind of
> glass wool?
>
> Noel
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Northstar problems |
That is good info, Lenny....sad, but good to keep in mind. Two of my
glass filters are situated in the cabin, sort of protected by the two
angled down-tubes behind my head, and preceded by shut-off valves.
The other one is under the console, surrounded by metal on three
sides. I'm not saying that I'm isolated from the incidents that you
describe, but if something gets to those filters and breaks that
glass, well, I don't think I'm gonna be in any condition to scream.
Like Art Arfons replied to me (I had asked how he liked driving the
Green Monster Ranger-engined dragster with the drive shaft rotating
between his legs, TOO close to his crotch): "I'm still lookin' for
the guy who wants to live forever."
Lynn Matteson
Kitfox IV Speedster, taildragger
Jabiru 2200, #2062, 876.7 hrs (since 3-27-2006)
Countdown to 1000 hrs~124 to go(135 days to go)
Sensenich 62"x46" Wood (summer)
Sensenich 55.5" x 46" Wood (winter)
Electroair direct-fire ignition system
Rotec TBI-40 injection
Status: flying (and learning)
do not archive
On Mar 11, 2010, at 5:22 PM, akflyer wrote:
>
> Lyn something to think about.. Pipers originally came out with a
> glass gascolator. There are an ungodly amount of cub drivers up
> here that crashed, survived the impact but were trapped or pinned
> in the wreckage. The gascolator would break and the ensuing fires
> would kill the otherwise pretty much unharmed pilot. I know one of
> my flying buddies that watched a guy he had just checked out in a
> cub do an accelerated stall and go in. By the time my buddy was
> able to land and get over to the wreckage all he could hear was his
> friend screaming as he was burning up... He would have survived
> that wreck had the glass not been in place in the fuel system.
>
> I don't think you can find a cub or piper around here anymore that
> has glass in the fuel system.
>
> --------
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
> Leonard Perry aka SNAKE
> Soldotna AK
> Avid "C" / Mk IV
> 582 (100 hrs and counting on the rebuild)
> IVO IFA
> Full Lotus 1450
> #1 snake oil salesman since 1-22-2009
>
> I would rather die trying to live, than to live trying not to die....
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=290052#290052
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Fw: help--how to mount wingtips. |
At 07:54 AM 3/11/2010, you wrote:
>I know there are advantages for removable tips and Guy's suggestion
>is an excellent one, Thanks Guy, and would give a clean almost
>undetectable joint. The most common method is to use the nut plates
>and screws. I have found that the glass thickness at the joint is a
>bit thinner than the cap strip, so if you wanted to lay up a layer
>or two of glass on the inside of the tip, you could develop enough
>thickness to countersink the screws if you wanted a smoother look.
I HIGHLY recommend removable tips. It facilitates inspections,
maintenance, and repair enormously. I will eventually modify my tips
using the hinge technique. For now I have countersunk screws into nut
plates which I think looks like crap because of the scalloping
between screws. (Not to mention the screw heads.) You could try inner
and outer carbon strips along the wing tip screw line to cut down the
scalloping, but I don't think you'll eliminate it completely the way
you would with the hinge.
Guy Buchanan
San Diego, CA
K-IV 1200 / 582-C / Warp / 400 hrs. and counting
Message 16
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| Subject: | Brake pedal ergonomics |
My matco brakes work fine but I find the angle my ankles are in to to push on the
top of the pedal with my toes is a pain. Some times after I taxi the mile
back to my trailer after landing my lower legs hurt like crazy.
The adjustment is already at the top of the master cylinder push rod. I have seen
a few pictures where people have attached wood blocks or put hose over the
top tube on the brake pedals. I'm guessing the purpose of those is to get a
better toe angle on the brakes.
Any ideas on a fix for my old man legs appreciated.
--------
Tom Jones
Classic IV
503 Rotax, 72 inch Two blade Warp
Ellensburg, WA
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=290068#290068
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Brake pedal ergonomics |
I sure hope there is a good solution to this one because it is in the front of
m time about every time I do a landing and forget to move my feet completely off
the brakes, and then have to remove my feet from the pedals to get back on
the brakes when I transition to taxiing. The mechanics of these brakes really
should have been re-thought somewhere between Mk 1 and however far these things
went, I know at least to Mk 3.
--------
James
Kitfox 3 / 582 / GSC prop
The ink is still drying on my new certificate
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=290072#290072
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Northstar problems |
The only reason I asked the question is because years ago my mother used to
use Angel hair in (spun Glass) in the filters of her aquarium. As I was
reading the post it came to me that angel hair could make a great filter and
easily recharged.
Wouldn't gasoline dissolve polycarbonate?
Noel
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lynn Matteson
Sent: March 11, 2010 6:24 PM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Re: Northstar problems
I don't think so....the one I have in my hands (actually I laid it
down to type) has the feel and weight of glass, and the ends of the
glass tube look like they have been "flame smoothed" and I don't
think poly-carb will stand still for that, but I could be wrong. This
particular one is marketed by Mr. Gasket, and is not up to the
quality of the Purolator filters, in my opinion. The instructions say
"The glass housing will weaken if scratched or chipped. If the glass
housing is damaged or dropped, DO NOT USE IT-you must replace the
housing." I don't know if these warnings would apply if the housing
were poly-carb. But aside from the instructions, which may use
"glass" as a generic term, my experience tells me that this is glass,
and so are the 3 on my plane, and the other 2 or 3 hanging on a peg
in the hangar.
Lynn Matteson
Kitfox IV Speedster, taildragger
Jabiru 2200, #2062, 876.7 hrs (since 3-27-2006)
Countdown to 1000 hrs~124 to go(135 days to go)
Sensenich 62"x46" Wood (summer)
Sensenich 55.5" x 46" Wood (winter)
Electroair direct-fire ignition system
Rotec TBI-40 injection
Status: flying (and learning)
On Mar 11, 2010, at 4:27 PM, vetdrem wrote:
>
> Let's see now....should I comment on "glass" filters?.........Naw,
> I'm sure he ment to say poly-carbonate.
>
> Louie
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=290045#290045
>
>
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Northstar problems |
Thanks Lynn
Noel
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lynn Matteson
Sent: March 11, 2010 7:16 PM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Re: Northstar problems
Noel-
The housing is glass, and the filter medium is some kind of nylon/
plastic/? material. I don't have the Purolator package here at home,
and don't recall what their marketing term was, but the Mr. Gasket
brand calls it a "Clear View Fuel Filter" Incidentally, the Mr.
Gasket brand is a poorly-made version of the same thing Purolator
used to sell. NAPA is another take-off of the same thing. The Mr.
Gasket one uses plastic (of some sort) screw-in barbed fittings,
whereas the original Purolator (as far as I know Purolator came
before the imitators) had one-piece end caps that had "gentle" barbs,
meaning that you could take the fuel hose off without pulling shards
of rubber/neoprene out with it.
From what I've seen, the NAPA brand is better than the Mr. Gasket,
but by the time you read this, they both may have gone downhill in
quality. Aircraft Spruce (2009-2010 catalog, p.164, lower left
corner) still shows the "Glass #804" filter, and the "Glass #806"
filter, the 04 and 06 referring to the size of the end cap barbs in
1/16" increments. Purolator used to sell a #805, which was for a
5/16" fuel line, but Spruce doesn't seem to show that one. And like
everything else, if you order, you may not get the genuine article,
Purolator, but one of the cheaper substitutes, which aren't ALL that
bad, it's just when you've seen and used the original, the others
seem to lack the quality.
Lynn Matteson
Kitfox IV Speedster, taildragger
Jabiru 2200, #2062, 876.7 hrs (since 3-27-2006)
Countdown to 1000 hrs~124 to go(135 days to go)
Sensenich 62"x46" Wood (summer)
Sensenich 55.5" x 46" Wood (winter)
Electroair direct-fire ignition system
Rotec TBI-40 injection
Status: flying (and learning)
do not archive
On Mar 11, 2010, at 5:06 PM, Noel Loveys wrote:
>
> Lynn:
>
> When you say "Glass filters" do you mean the cases are glass and
> the filter
> material is something else or is the filter medium some kind of
> glass wool?
>
> Noel
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Northstar problems |
Those glass bowls were pretty hefty and hard as nails... I expect it was
not the glass that broke but the body (top ) of the gascolator. Like any
other fitting on the fuel system if it breaks that is not good. Don't
forget the location of that glass bowl is the lowest part of the whole fuel
system. As to whether or not Lynn's filters are susceptible to fracture I'm
sure the manufacturers have done studies on it.
Noel
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of akflyer
Sent: March 11, 2010 6:53 PM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: Northstar problems
Lyn something to think about.. Pipers originally came out with a glass
gascolator. There are an ungodly amount of cub drivers up here that
crashed, survived the impact but were trapped or pinned in the wreckage.
The gascolator would break and the ensuing fires would kill the otherwise
pretty much unharmed pilot. I know one of my flying buddies that watched a
guy he had just checked out in a cub do an accelerated stall and go in. By
the time my buddy was able to land and get over to the wreckage all he could
hear was his friend screaming as he was burning up... He would have survived
that wreck had the glass not been in place in the fuel system.
I don't think you can find a cub or piper around here anymore that has glass
in the fuel system.
--------
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Leonard Perry aka SNAKE
Soldotna AK
Avid "C" / Mk IV
582 (100 hrs and counting on the rebuild)
IVO IFA
Full Lotus 1450
#1 snake oil salesman since 1-22-2009
I would rather die trying to live, than to live trying not to die....
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=290052#290052
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Brake pedal ergonomics |
I made the square blocks that are the links between the piston rod
and the fixed point (?) longer. What this did was to rotate the top
of the pedal toward me, and made my short legs reach the tops of the
pedals. It seems like I also shortened the cables, too, bringing the
whole pedal closer.
Lynn Matteson
Kitfox IV Speedster, taildragger
Jabiru 2200, #2062, 876.7 hrs (since 3-27-2006)
Countdown to 1000 hrs~124 to go(135 days to go)
Sensenich 62"x46" Wood (summer)
Sensenich 55.5" x 46" Wood (winter)
Electroair direct-fire ignition system
Rotec TBI-40 injection
Status: flying (and learning)
On Mar 11, 2010, at 8:25 PM, Tom Jones wrote:
>
> My matco brakes work fine but I find the angle my ankles are in to
> to push on the top of the pedal with my toes is a pain. Some times
> after I taxi the mile back to my trailer after landing my lower
> legs hurt like crazy.
>
> The adjustment is already at the top of the master cylinder push
> rod. I have seen a few pictures where people have attached wood
> blocks or put hose over the top tube on the brake pedals. I'm
> guessing the purpose of those is to get a better toe angle on the
> brakes.
>
> Any ideas on a fix for my old man legs appreciated.
>
> --------
> Tom Jones
> Classic IV
> 503 Rotax, 72 inch Two blade Warp
> Ellensburg, WA
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=290068#290068
>
>
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Brake pedal ergonomics |
I have the same problem on my Model V. To angle my size 13 feet back in
order to keep my toes off the brakes is difficult. On my last landing I
went to put in some right rudder and ended up braking the right wheel.
It was fun screeching off to the right rapidly and unexpectedly! The
fix I made was to cut a one inch square of wood as wide as the pedal. I
secured it with duct tape, which actually holds the world together, so I
know it won't come off. I fit checked it while in the hangar, ( I now
clear the brake by about =BC of an inch) but haven't flown it. If it
works, I plan to make an aluminum copy of it and bolt it to the pedal,
unless of course the duct tape works out good, in which case I'll stick
with it (pun intended). It reminds me when I was a kid and had blocks
on the pedals because I couldn't reach them:-)
Rick Weiss
N39RW Series V Speedster, 912ULS
SkyStar S/N 1
Port Orange, FL
On Mar 11, 2010, at 9:29 PM, WurlyBird wrote:
<james.t.trizzino@us.army.mil>
>
> I sure hope there is a good solution to this one because it is in the
front of m time about every time I do a landing and forget to move my
feet completely off the brakes, and then have to remove my feet from the
pedals to get back on the brakes when I transition to taxiing. The
mechanics of these brakes really should have been re-thought somewhere
between Mk 1 and however far these things went, I know at least to Mk 3.
>
> --------
> James
> Kitfox 3 / 582 / GSC prop
> The ink is still drying on my new certificate
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=290072#290072
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Northstar problems |
Correct. It now has a rubber hose around the drain, like a piece of radiator
hose, and a hole in the fuselage to drain the fuel. There is an aluminum
piece that goes in the end of the hose and you fabric over it. It all came
with my kit. My Champ had a glass bowl like the Cubs and it cracked. I
replaced it with an all metal one.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lynn Matteson" <lynnmatt@jps.net>
Sent: Thursday, March 11, 2010 4:19 PM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Re: Northstar problems
>
> I think that's what Jim was pointing out, Noel. If you look at the
> picture again, you'll see a fitting....looks like a quick-
> drain....underneath the header tank. I think Jim just hasn't got
> around to cutting the fabric at that point...or am I full of it
> again, Jim? : )
>
> Aren't the present tanks equipped with the bottom drain? Mine is, and
> I think it was from a model 5 if not mistaken....Deke?
>
> Lynn Matteson
> Kitfox IV Speedster, taildragger
> Jabiru 2200, #2062, 876.7 hrs (since 3-27-2006)
> Countdown to 1000 hrs~124 to go(135 days to go)
> Sensenich 62"x46" Wood (summer)
> Sensenich 55.5" x 46" Wood (winter)
> Electroair direct-fire ignition system
> Rotec TBI-40 injection
> Status: flying (and learning)
>
>
> On Mar 11, 2010, at 3:40 PM, Noel Loveys wrote:
>
>> You need an access port on the bottom of the fuse to take samples
>> from your header. A nice addition on future header tanks would be
>> for the tank to have a small sump on the bottom to trap water.
>>
>>
>>
>> Noel
>>
>>
>>
>> From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-kitfox-
>> list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Zimmermans
>> Sent: March 10, 2010 1:15 AM
>> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: Northstar problems
>>
>>
>>
>> Here you can see the outlet on the front and the drain in the bottom.
>>
>> Jim Series 5 0-200
>>
>> 21D MN
>>
>> ============================================================ _-
>> ============================================================ _-
>> contribution_-
>> ===========================================================
>
>
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
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01:33:00
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