Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:17 AM - Re: Need radiator! (dave)
2. 05:59 AM - Re: Re: Need radiator! (rical)
3. 06:29 AM - Re: First engine start (Tom Jones)
4. 07:08 AM - Re: Need radiator! (dave)
5. 07:10 AM - Re: First engine start (dave)
6. 08:01 AM - Re: First engine start (Ken Potter)
7. 08:05 AM - Re: First engine start (dave)
8. 10:26 AM - Engine Break In (Ken Potter)
9. 10:28 AM - Re: First engine start (Ken Potter)
10. 02:06 PM - Re: First engine start (akflyer)
11. 02:22 PM - Re: Re: Need radiator! (rical)
12. 06:00 PM - Engine Break In (fox5flyer)
13. 07:04 PM - Re: Engine Break In (Ken Potter)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Need radiator! |
I would be interested in how an aluminum rad works over a copper/brass rad. I
don't think that the aluminum will dissipate the heat better.
Do you have heat troubles now ?
--------
Rotax Dealer, Ontario Canada
http://www.cfisher.com/
Awesome *New Forum *
http://rotaxaircraft.com/forum/
Realtime Kitfox movies to separate the internet chatter from the truth
http://www.youtube.com/profile_videos?user=kitfoxflyer
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=300102#300102
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| Subject: | Re: Need radiator! |
HI Dave, there is a dent in the middle of the rad, it's rotten, fins are
starting to detach and I have heat problem. So,I'm looking for a new
rad and I wanted to try the aluminum rad, according to some people I can
lower the temps by 20 degree! Anybody with a 582 and an aluminum rad?
Richard
Carlsbad Springs Ontario Canada
Kitfox 4 582 C 123hours C-FPVV
dave wrote:
>
> I would be interested in how an aluminum rad works over a copper/brass rad.
I don't think that the aluminum will dissipate the heat better.
>
> Do you have heat troubles now ?
>
> --------
> Rotax Dealer, Ontario Canada
> http://www.cfisher.com/
> Awesome *New Forum *
> http://rotaxaircraft.com/forum/
> Realtime Kitfox movies to separate the internet chatter from the truth
> http://www.youtube.com/profile_videos?user=kitfoxflyer
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=300102#300102
>
>
>
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| Subject: | Re: First engine start |
ken, where was the fuel pouring out of the carbs? If it was pouring out the vent
lines the needle valve is stuck open or there is too much fuel pressure. have
you installed an aftermarket fuel pump?
It is not unusual for a two stroke engine to smoke when first started.
You said you didn't want to start searching on the internet. No need to search. Here it is http://www.800-airwolf.com/articles.htm first read part 24 then 10 and 11.
--------
Tom Jones
Classic IV
503 Rotax, 72 inch Two blade Warp
Ellensburg, WA
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=300114#300114
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| Subject: | Re: Need radiator! |
Richard,
I would get more than one proven result on changing from Copper to Aluminum without
changing the area. The kitfox Rad is about 80 square inches and about 2 inches
thick. Making it thicker will not do much. I think by getting a custom
rad 2 to 3 inches thick and adding 1 in taller will help as you will increase
the area by 25%. I don't think that this will cause and speed loss as the Kitfox
is drag machine already.
Alum rads in my opinion are not as strong as the Copper/brass rads in our application.
Ours are bolted solidly. Aluminum will can case harden and cause cracking.
Alum rads should be rubber mounted.
Here is some stuff I did a few years ago with good success.
http://www.cfisher.com/cowl.html
One other thing is to use 90% distilled water and 10% dexcool. You will get better
cooling this way.
I have 2 model 2 here right now that run 180 to 190 F and I might get a custom
rad done as above. But it will be costly. 400 to 600$ each I bet.
--------
Rotax Dealer, Ontario Canada
http://www.cfisher.com/
Awesome *New Forum *
http://rotaxaircraft.com/forum/
Realtime Kitfox movies to separate the internet chatter from the truth
http://www.youtube.com/profile_videos?user=kitfoxflyer
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=300116#300116
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| Subject: | Re: First engine start |
You do not need a aftermarket pump in addition to the gravity flow and the mikuni
pump. Any extra could cause the needles to not seat.
With fuel turned on and engine off it should not leak. A faulty primer can allow
flue to flow when not running.
--------
Rotax Dealer, Ontario Canada
http://www.cfisher.com/
Awesome *New Forum *
http://rotaxaircraft.com/forum/
Realtime Kitfox movies to separate the internet chatter from the truth
http://www.youtube.com/profile_videos?user=kitfoxflyer
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=300117#300117
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| Subject: | Re: First engine start |
Hi Folks,
The gas was coming out of the overflow holes for the float chambers. I adjusted
the floats to close the needle earlier. No fuel leak. But the engine will
only idle and run if the choke is on. When I open the throttle it dies. Any
ideas???
Ken
--------
Ken Potter
Model II, No. 483
Rotax 582, C-Box,
99% Complete
C-FJKP
Lanark, Ontario
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=300121#300121
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: First engine start |
Do you have a tube on the over flow vents?
You should have a loop of 1/8 " line from the front vent to rear vent that droops
in under the float bowl . use a soldering gun and melt 3 holes in the bottom
of that tube under the float bowl.
--------
Rotax Dealer, Ontario Canada
http://www.cfisher.com/
Awesome *New Forum *
http://rotaxaircraft.com/forum/
Realtime Kitfox movies to separate the internet chatter from the truth
http://www.youtube.com/profile_videos?user=kitfoxflyer
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=300122#300122
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Well I managed to get the engine running well enough, and even though it was not
idling well I went ahead with the break in procedure. (the equivalent of an
hour long "root canal") Anyways, it seemed to run much better after the break
in period but will still not idle.
Cheers
Ken
--------
Ken Potter
Model II, No. 483
Rotax 582, C-Box,
99% Complete
C-FJKP
Lanark, Ontario
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=300130#300130
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: First engine start |
Thanks Dave and everyone else.
Dave, by the way, I broke in the engine using that GSC IFA prop you sold me last
winter. Seems to be well matched to the plane from the ground run -up I did.
Ken
--------
Ken Potter
Model II, No. 483
Rotax 582, C-Box,
99% Complete
C-FJKP
Lanark, Ontario
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=300131#300131
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: First engine start |
dave wrote:
> You do not need a aftermarket pump in addition to the gravity flow and the
mikuni pump. Any extra could cause the needles to not seat.
>
> With fuel turned on and engine off it should not leak. A faulty primer can allow
flue to flow when not running.
I can tell you one instance where my back up electric pump saved my a$$. Right
after take off from a very remote field, I noticed my fuel flow dropping from
what should have been 7.2-7.4 GPH at take off to about 5.3 GPH and dropping.
I flipped on the electric pump and the fuel flow went back up to normal. I climbed
out and headed for home and as soon as I pulled back to cruise setting
flipped the electric back up off. Flow went from 5.3 down to 3.8 or there abouts.
I kicked the electric back on and flow went back to normal. I arrived back
at the home lake and found the fuel filter off the header tank plugged. I
pulled it out and it looked clean, but you could hardly blow through it.
Had I not had the flow meter and the back up electric pump, the plane would have
been destroyed in the trees and I would have had one heck of a hike out of there
to get back to civilization. Between the mikuni and the electric pump I
was able to maintain adequate fuel flow to keep the engine running.
I now carry spare filters.
--------
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Leonard Perry aka SNAKE
Soldotna AK
Avid "C" / Mk IV
582 (147 hrs and counting on the rebuild)
IVO IFA
Full Lotus 1450
#1 snake oil salesman since 1-22-2009
I would rather die trying to live, than to live trying not to die....
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=300155#300155
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Need radiator! |
Thanks Dave..... everything makeS a lot of sense!! As for mixing, right
now I have 50-50 and run at about 190F. Like you suggest, 90-10%, what
about winter?
Thanks
Richard
Carlsbad Springs Ontario Canada
Kitfox 4 582 C 123hours C-FPVV
dave wrote:
>
> Richard,
>
> I would get more than one proven result on changing from Copper to Aluminum without
changing the area. The kitfox Rad is about 80 square inches and about 2
inches thick. Making it thicker will not do much. I think by getting a custom
rad 2 to 3 inches thick and adding 1 in taller will help as you will increase
the area by 25%. I don't think that this will cause and speed loss as the Kitfox
is drag machine already.
>
> Alum rads in my opinion are not as strong as the Copper/brass rads in our application.
Ours are bolted solidly. Aluminum will can case harden and cause cracking.
Alum rads should be rubber mounted.
>
> Here is some stuff I did a few years ago with good success.
> http://www.cfisher.com/cowl.html
>
> One other thing is to use 90% distilled water and 10% dexcool. You will get better
cooling this way.
>
> I have 2 model 2 here right now that run 180 to 190 F and I might get a custom
rad done as above. But it will be costly. 400 to 600$ each I bet.
>
> --------
> Rotax Dealer, Ontario Canada
> http://www.cfisher.com/
> Awesome *New Forum *
> http://rotaxaircraft.com/forum/
> Realtime Kitfox movies to separate the internet chatter from the truth
> http://www.youtube.com/profile_videos?user=kitfoxflyer
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=300116#300116
>
>
>
Message 12
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Ken, my Model 2 with 582 was factory equipped with idle jets that were way
too rich that created a very rough idle. From ACS I reduced them by a
couple numbers (I don't remember what they were) that smoothed out the idle
significantly. No more problems.
Deke Morisse
Mikado Michigan
S5/Subaru/CAP 455+ TT
Previously Model 2 582 400 Hrs
"If you put the federal government in charge of the Sahara
Desert, in five years there'd be a shortage of sand."
-- Nobel prize-winning economist Milton Friedman (1912-2006)
>
> Well I managed to get the engine running well enough, and even though it
> was not idling well I went ahead with the break in procedure. (the
> equivalent of an hour long "root canal") Anyways, it seemed to run much
> better after the break in period but will still not idle.
>
> Cheers
>
> Ken
>
> --------
> Ken Potter
> Model II, No. 483
> Rotax 582, C-Box,
> 99% Complete
> C-FJKP
> Lanark, Ontario
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=300130#300130
>
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Engine Break In |
Thanks Deke,
After a mind numbing hour of break in I'm now stepping back and educating myself
about Bing carbs. I've owned British sports cars with dual carbs for 30 years,
but the Bing carbs are designed with a different philosphy. I Have a copy
of Mike Stratmans articles on the "Care and Feeding of the Rotax Motor" and
plan to spend a rainy Sunday tomorrow reading it.
Interestingly enough, after shutting down the engine after break in, I gave the
engine a shake to check the mounts and the forward carb started pissing fuel
out the main jet again. I'm beginning to think it may be the primer that is funky.
Cheers
Ken
--------
Ken Potter
Model II, No. 483
Rotax 582, C-Box,
99% Complete
C-FJKP
Lanark, Ontario
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=300183#300183
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