Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:21 AM - Re: Bungees, really need help guys! (Michel)
2. 05:50 AM - Re: Bungees, really need help guys! (Jack in Austin)
3. 07:04 AM - Bungee best practice questions (Paul A. Franz, P.E.)
4. 07:56 AM - Re: Re: Bungees, really need help guys! (Mike Chaney)
5. 09:48 AM - Re: Bungees, really need help guys! (Tom Jones)
6. 10:15 AM - Re: Bungee best practice questions (Tom Jones)
7. 10:49 AM - Re: Re: Bungees, really need help guys! (Robert Taylor)
8. 02:54 PM - Re: Re: Bungees, really need help guys! (Marco Menezes)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Bungees, really need help guys! |
On my Kitfox 3 from 1992, I have about 57 inches of 3/8 shock cord that is turned
on six wraps. I buy it from Aircraft Spruce.
I once tried the hook fasteners but it doesn't work for a Kitfox; it comes loose
much too quickly! I tie down the ends with lashing lace I have from my sailing
days.'
The only problem I meet is that the color code of the different shock cords I bought
are different and the last batch from Aircraft Spruce is bloody hard, stretching
hardly anything over 120 to 140 percent.
Cheers,
Michel
--------
Kitfox 3 - Jabiru 2200
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=343968#343968
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Bungees, really need help guys! |
I just replaced the bungees in my plane, by myself.
The outcome was in doubt there for a bit, but,
1. I used a tie-down strap (the kind with a ratchet) to tension between the two
wheels, so the gear wouldn't collapse on removal. A thick piece of carpet over
the strap came in handy when working below.
2. Figure the length, number of wraps, and divide- then mark the bungee where it
will cross the top bar to make the wraps work out.
3. Get a big pair of visegrips, and make certain that anyone that might be offended
by profanity is out of earshot.
From the top, stretch PAST the mark that should cross the top. 1/2" is good- the
first may have none at all. The third should have a bit more, etc. It's a
goal, that will serve you well at the end. Now that you're past, clamp the bungee
to the top bar using the vise grips, and feed the cable back around. Note
that it's best to already have the bungee threaded back though the bottom when
you pull. I wore a thin pair of roper's gloves that I happened to have, but
you will need gloves! Repeat. After a few turns, you'll have to go below,
and using some form of tool, forcibly slide the loops back to the end of the lower
bar to make room for another loop or two. I used the handle of a screwdriver
as a fulcrum, and another for the lever. DO NOT CUT THE BUNGEE when you're
prying!
It wasn't fun, and I did have to start over when it came time to hang the loop,
since I didn't have that extra slack to hang it, but my gear now stands the way
it should!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=343979#343979
Message 3
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| Subject: | Bungee best practice questions |
After cutting the bungee is there something that should be done to protect the
cut
ends such as dipping the last 1/4" in epoxy cement? I put two wraps of electrical
tape
around the bungee and did the cuts right through the tape.
How many and what type of clamp should be used to hold the two ends together or
make a
loop? How do you know if the clamp is tight enough or too tight? I used six wraps
of
safety wire with my "clamp tight" tool. Using this tool one could strangle the
bungee
to any degree desired. I didn't use any sleeve under the wire strands. Will this
be a
problem?
--
Paul A. Franz, P.E.
PAF Consulting Engineers
Office 425.440.9505
Cell 425.241.1618
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Bungees, really need help guys! |
I purchased a tool years ago from an auto parts store that I use to grab an
d hold the bungees.- I can't rember exactly what this tool was origionall
y made for.- It-looks like a pair of beefed-up kitchen tongs with-spe
cial rubber coated concave tips about the same diameter as the buggee.-I
purchased this tool a the local NAPA auto parts store. Someone on this list
suggested this years ago.- If anyone in this group can remember what thi
s tool was made for it would be more helpful when asking for it at the stor
e.-- If not, and someone is interested I can research this and report b
ack to the group.- I used the tool and it made the bungee change a bit ea
sier.
-
Mike Chaney
1996 Kitfox IV
--- On Fri, 6/24/11, Jack in Austin <aviation@comconn.com> wrote:
From: Jack in Austin <aviation@comconn.com>
Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: Bungees, really need help guys!
I just replaced the bungees in my plane, by myself.
The outcome was in doubt there for a bit, but,
1.- I used a tie-down strap (the kind with a ratchet) to tension between
the two wheels, so the gear wouldn't collapse on removal. A thick piece of
carpet over the strap came in handy when working below.
2. Figure the length, number of wraps, and divide- then mark the bungee whe
re it will cross the top bar to make the wraps work out.
3. Get a big pair of visegrips, and make certain that anyone that might be
offended by profanity is out of earshot.
>From the top, stretch PAST the mark that should cross the top. 1/2" is good
- the first may have none at all.- The third should have a bit more, etc.
- It's a goal, that will serve you well at the end.- Now that you're pa
st, clamp the bungee to the top bar using the vise grips, and feed the cabl
e back around.- Note that it's best to already have the bungee threaded b
ack though the bottom when you pull.- I wore a thin pair of roper's glove
s that I happened to have, but you will need gloves! Repeat.- After a few
turns, you'll have to go below, and using some form of tool, forcibly slid
e the loops back to the end of the lower bar to make room for another loop
or two. I used the handle of a screwdriver as a fulcrum, and another for th
e lever. DO NOT CUT THE BUNGEE when you're prying!
It wasn't fun, and I did have to start over when it came time to hang the l
oop, since I didn't have that extra slack to hang it, but my gear now stand
s the way it should!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=343979#343979
le, List Admin.
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Bungees, really need help guys! |
> I purchased a tool years ago from an auto parts store that I use to grab and
hold the bungees. I can't rember exactly what this tool was origionally made for.
It looks like a pair of beefed-up kitchen tongs with special rubber coated
concave tips about the same diameter as the buggee.
Did it look something like this?
--------
Tom Jones
Classic IV
503 Rotax, 72 inch Two blade Warp
Ellensburg, WA
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=344003#344003
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/hand_clamp_357.jpg
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Bungee best practice questions |
> How many and what type of clamp should be used to hold the two ends together
or make a
> loop? How do you know if the clamp is tight enough or too tight? I used six wraps
of
> safety wire with my "clamp tight" tool. Using this tool one could strangle the
bungee
> to any degree desired. I didn't use any sleeve under the wire strands. Will this
be a
> problem?
The only official information on making bungee ends I have found is in 43.13-2B
in the Ski installation section. It recommends using using No. 9 cotton or 0.041"
(minimum) safety wire.
I made one using round rib lacing cord to wrap the loop. I tested it putting the
loop over a bolt in my bench vise, grabbing the cord with both hands, bracing
one foot on the bench, and rocking back with all my weight. The cord slipped
a little under the wrapping.
I tried again but this time clamped the loop tail ends in the vise and stretched
the loop out with a come along, then wrapped the lacing cord around it. This
method made the cord much tighter around the loop. I can't budge it at all.
I still don't trust my home made bungee so I bit the bullet and ordered the factory
ones.
--
Paul A. Franz, P.E.
--------
Tom Jones
Classic IV
503 Rotax, 72 inch Two blade Warp
Ellensburg, WA
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=344005#344005
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Bungees, really need help guys! |
Sounds like a spark plug boot plier, for removing stuck-on spark plug
boots. Just guessing.
Bob Taylor
TigerCub N657RT
From: Mike Chaney
Sent: Friday, June 24, 2011 10:53 AM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Re: Bungees, really need help guys!
I purchased a tool years ago from an auto parts store that I use
to grab and hold the bungees. I can't rember exactly what this tool was
origionally made for. It looks like a pair of beefed-up kitchen tongs
with special rubber coated concave tips about the same diameter as the
buggee. I purchased this tool a the local NAPA auto parts store. Someone
on this list suggested this years ago. If anyone in this group can
remember what this tool was made for it would be more helpful when
asking for it at the store. If not, and someone is interested I can
research this and report back to the group. I used the tool and it made
the bungee change a bit easier.
Mike Chaney
1996 Kitfox IV
--- On Fri, 6/24/11, Jack in Austin <aviation@comconn.com> wrote:
From: Jack in Austin <aviation@comconn.com>
Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: Bungees, really need help guys!
To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
Date: Friday, June 24, 2011, 8:47 AM
<aviation@comconn.com>
I just replaced the bungees in my plane, by myself.
The outcome was in doubt there for a bit, but,
1. I used a tie-down strap (the kind with a ratchet) to tension
between the two wheels, so the gear wouldn't collapse on removal. A
thick piece of carpet over the strap came in handy when working below.
2. Figure the length, number of wraps, and divide- then mark the
bungee where it will cross the top bar to make the wraps work out.
3. Get a big pair of visegrips, and make certain that anyone
that might be offended by profanity is out of earshot.
From the top, stretch PAST the mark that should cross the top.
1/2" is good- the first may have none at all. The third should have a
bit more, etc. It's a goal, that will serve you well at the end. Now
that you're past, clamp the bungee to the top bar using the vise grips,
and feed the cable back around. Note that it's best to already have the
bungee threaded back though the bottom when you pull. I wore a thin
pair of roper's gloves that I happened to have, but you will need
gloves! Repeat. After a few turns, you'll have to go below, and using
some form of tool, forcibly slide the loops back to the end of the lower
bar to make room for another loop or two. I used the handle of a
screwdriver as a fulcrum, and another for the lever. DO NOT CUT THE
BUNGEE when you're prying!
It wasn't fun, and I did have to start over when it came time to
hang the loop, since I didn't have that extra slack to hang it, but my
gear now stands the way it should!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=343979#343979http://www.mat
ronics.com/Navigator?Kitbsp; - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
href="http://forums.matronics.com/"
target=_blank>http://forums.matronbsp; - List Contribution
Web Site
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Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Bungees, really need help guys! |
I haven't replaced mine for awhile, so my knuckles have had time to heal. C
an't remember how I did it last time but I'm sure it was different from the
time before and equally unpleasant. If I had to do it again today I'd be m
ightly confused by the various written explanations that have been proffere
d this time around. Could someone who as developed an "easy, 10 minute per
side, one-man" system possibly video the magical process and post on you-tu
be? If a picture is worth a thousand words, a video is worth a million. We
the bungee-maimed would be most appreciative as would our profanity scorche
d families and punted pets.
-
Marco Menezes N99KX
Model 2 582-90 C-Box 3:1 w/clutch
Hersey, Michigan
--- On Fri, 6/24/11, Mike Chaney <poasttown@yahoo.com> wrote:
From: Mike Chaney <poasttown@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Re: Bungees, really need help guys!
I purchased a tool years ago from an auto parts store that I use to grab an
d hold the bungees.- I can't rember exactly what this tool was origionall
y made for.- It-looks like a pair of beefed-up kitchen tongs with-spe
cial rubber coated concave tips about the same diameter as the buggee.-I
purchased this tool a the local NAPA auto parts store. Someone on this list
suggested this years ago.- If anyone in this group can remember what thi
s tool was made for it would be more helpful when asking for it at the stor
e.-- If not, and someone is interested I can research this and report b
ack to the group.- I used the tool and it made the bungee change a bit ea
sier.
-
Mike Chaney
1996 Kitfox IV
--- On Fri, 6/24/11, Jack in Austin <aviation@comconn.com> wrote:
From: Jack in Austin <aviation@comconn.com>
Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: Bungees, really need help guys!
I just replaced the bungees in my plane, by myself.
The outcome was in doubt there for a bit, but,
1.- I used a tie-down strap (the kind with a ratchet) to tension between
the two wheels, so the gear wouldn't collapse on removal. A thick piece of
carpet over the strap came in handy when working below.
2. Figure the length, number of wraps, and divide- then mark the bungee whe
re it will cross the top bar to make the wraps work out.
3. Get a big pair of visegrips, and make certain that anyone that might be
offended by profanity is out of earshot.
>From the top, stretch PAST the mark that should cross the top. 1/2" is good
- the first may have none at all.- The third should have a bit more, etc.
- It's a goal, that will serve you well at the end.- Now that you're pa
st, clamp the bungee to the top bar using the vise grips, and feed the cabl
e back around.- Note that it's best to already have the bungee threaded b
ack though the bottom when you pull.- I wore a thin pair of roper's glove
s that I happened to have, but you will need gloves! Repeat.- After a few
turns, you'll have to go below, and using some form of tool, forcibly slid
e the loops back to the end of the lower bar to make room for another loop
or two. I used the handle of a screwdriver as a fulcrum, and another for th
e lever. DO NOT CUT THE BUNGEE when you're prying!
It wasn't fun, and I did have to start over when it came time to hang the l
oop, since I didn't have that extra slack to hang it, but my gear now stand
s the way it should!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=343979#343979 http://www.matr
onics.com/Navigator?Kitbsp; - - - - ---- MATRONICS WEB FORUMS
- href="http://forums.matronics.com/" target=_blank>http://forums.matr
onbsp; - - - ---- List Contribution Web Site - http://www==
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